A MATTER OF PEDESTRIANISM
Up to the very recent days of Meiji the precincts of the Shiba
San-en-zan Zo[u]jo[u]ji, now known more particularly as the most
accessible of the burial places of the Tokugawa Sho[u]gun, were an
excellent example of the old monastic establishments. The main temple
with its wide grounds was completely girdled by a succession of halls or
monastic foundations, some of which were famed through the land for
their theological teaching of the principles of the Jo[u]do[u] sect.
Conspicuous among these were the Tenjingatani and the Mushigatani,
seminaries widely sought for the erudition of the professors. In all
nearly three thousand students attended the halls, with an eye to an
ecclesiastical future.
On the dawn of a cold winter morning a priestly clad man, a _shoké_ or
one of the lowest clerical order, mainly notable for the vastness and
robustness of his proportions, could have been seen leaving the gate of
the Tokucho[u]-in. His size alone would have attracted attention, for
the mouse coloured _kimono_, the white leggings and mitts (_tekko[u]_),
the double soled _waraji_ (sandals) fastened on a pair of big feet, were
usual travelling equipment of his kind, made sure by the close woven
_ajiro_ or mushroom hat covering his head; admirable shelter against
heat in summer, and a canopy--umbrella like--against falling snow in
winter. By somewhat devious route he strode along a narrow lane, crossed
the Gokurakubashi and halted before the Chu[u]mon on the broad avenue
leading up to the temple. A glance thither satisfied him for a
leave-taking, which yet displayed some sentiment. A few moments carried
him without the entrance gate, and but few more saw him crossing
Kanésujibashi, evidently on some long tramp, if the steady swing of a
practised walker, in no haste and conserving his strength, is any test.
The road in those days passed through a long succession of village
houses, the _cho[u]_ of Shiba village, broken very occasionally by a
_yashiki_ wall. It was not until he reached the barrier at Takanawa,
Kurumacho[u], that he came full out on the bay just lighting up with the
coming day--a beautiful stretch of water, now spoiled by the ugliness of
the railway and the filling in which has turned the haunt of thousands
of wild fowl into a prairie, soon to be covered by hideous factories and
other sites of man's superfluous toil. Close by the little saddle at
Shinagawa, now a railway cutting, a stream came into the bay from the
west. On the bridge the priest Dentatsu stopped for a moment.
Throughout, from the time of leaving Kanésujibashi, he had had a feeling
of being followed. Now he determined to get a good look at his pursuer,
it was not particularly satisfying. "Iya! An ill looking chap--with an
eye like a knife." The object of these remarks had halted with him, at
the further side of the bridge. He was contemplating the water with one
eye, the priest with the other. A short sturdy man of forty odd years,
Dentatsu noted the good but thin upper garment, the close fitting
leggings, the well chosen _waraji_, the copper handled dagger in his
girdle. Furthermore he noted a cold decision in the glance of the eye
that he liked least of all in the fellow's equipment.
This was a man he would not choose for companion--"Bah! Short Legs, this
Dentatsu will soon leave your stumps in the rear. A little speed, and
this doubtful fellow is left behind beyond hope." So off started his
reverence at the full pace of his huge legs and really great endurance.
Through O[u]mori and Kamata, crossing in the same boat at the Rokugo
ferry, through Kawasaki and Tsurumigi--totsu-totsu-totsu the stranger's
legs kept easy pace with those of the priest. "A most extraordinary
fellow," thought Dentatsu. "He moves as on springs. It would be well to
settle matters at once with him." Halting he waited for this pursuer to
close up the few score feet maintained between them. His frowning manner
had a genial greeting. "Ah! Ha! Truly the Go Shukké Sama[22] is no mean
walker. But even then company on the road is good. From the
Zo[u]jo[u]ji; by that _kesa_ (stole), dress, and carriage? Probably the
honoured priest has a long journey before him--to the capital?" Dentatsu
duly scanned his company--"To the Chion-In, the parent temple, and none
too fond of companionship on the road. Deign, good sir, to spare yours;
with such short legs the task of precedence would be out of the
question. Drop the useless effort of this pursuit, which becomes an
annoyance."
Dentatsu's manner was truculent, his grasp on his stick even
threatening. The fellow met this rough greeting with the suavest
determination. "Oya! Oya! Naruhodo, Go Shukké Sama! A very rude speech
indeed! After all the highway is free to all, and I too travel the
To[u]kaido[u] toward the capital. Deign to grant your company and the
entertainment will be all the better. Don't be deceived by length, or
lack of length, in one's legs. The promise will be kept not to detain
you.... That you came from Zo[u]jo[u]ji is plain from your garb, if you
had not been seen to turn into To[u]kaido[u] from the temple avenue....
I too travel Kyo[u]to way.... See! In our talk already Hodogaya town is
passed. This climb.... here is the top of the Yakimochizaka. The mark
stands here to bound Sagami and Musashi. Ha! Ha! The Go Shukké Sama has
splendid legs, but he is handicapped by his weight. Surely it cannot be
less than two thousand _ryo[u]_ in coin that he carries in the pack on
his shoulders. That contains no bills on the Sho[u]shidai (Governor) of
the capital."
Ah! The matter now was fully lighted. The fellow then had known his
mission from Zo[u]jo[u]ji to the parent temple, to remit this sum to the
capital. Dentatsu had not anticipated difficulty so early in his
journey, nor did he much care for the contest which was offered him. He
judged the man by his legs, and these were almost miraculous in
swiftness, activity, and strength. "Alas! A dangerous fellow indeed. The
luck of this Dentatsu is bad. What now is to be done?" The cold sweat at
his responsibility gently bedewed his forehead. Yet Dentatsu was a brave
man. The tradesman--or robber--laughed lightly. "Don't look so queer, so
put out, honoured Shukké Sama. Truth is told in saying there is business
on To[u]kaido[u]. Even if highwayman, the last thing thought of would
be to meddle with the funds of the honoured Hotoké Sama (Buddha). Be
reassured; and as such be more assured in having a companion. The coin?
Pure guess, and from the small size of the parcel and the evident
difficulty found in carrying it. It weighs too much on one shoulder.
Trust not only the thief, but the trader to know the signs of cash....
You would breakfast at Totsuka town? Did they send you forth with empty
belly? Surely the monastery kitchen has no such reputation for
stinginess among the vulgar." His manner was so reassuring that Dentatsu
gained confidence in him and his profession. Gladly now he accepted this
failure to relieve him of his precious burden, and this offer of
company. He resented however the reflection on the monastery
kitchen--"Not so! Nor is this foolish priest so at odds with the cook as
not to find a bit of mountain whale (flesh) in the soup. Repletion is
the aim and object of a monastic existence."--"Ha! Ha! Ha!" laughed the
fellow. "Yet the honoured Shukké Sama would breakfast so close to Edo
town! Good sir, deign to leave the matter to me. Both are in haste--you
to the capital; I almost as far.... This Fujisawa is a wondrous place.
As priest you know its temple and its wandering prior, the precious
relics of the Hangwan, but the woman Teruté of course the priest
despises; yet Oguri owed much to her--life and success in his vendetta.
Besides in a copse, just over yonder hill, is the shrine of the other
Hangwan--Yoshitsuné. A prayer to his head there buried brings success in
warlike adventure, no great affair for cleric or tradesman.... Already
the Banyu[u] ferry is close at hand. Surely if we would reach Sumpu
(Shizuoka) this day there can be no lunching short of Odawara town."
Dentatsu would have stopped short, if such halt had not involved the
rapid disappearance of this elastic and now entertaining companion. As
it was both had to slow pace to let him get breath taken away by pure
amazement. "Odawara town! Sumpu before night! Tradesman, have you gone
mad? To Sumpu it is full forty-eight _ri_ (120 miles). You talk like a
fool. Who is there, to walk such a stage in a day?"--"The honoured
Shukké Sama and this tradesman. In talk and argument the ground flies
under the feet of such walkers, and the promise to keep pace will be
maintained. Just see--this is Kodzu town; yonder the waters of
Sakawagawa. 'Tis early yet, but time can be spared for food. For
exercise belly timber is needed. A good lining of wine and food to the
inwards is the tonic to more talk and exertion. Now in with you, to this
broad space leading to the castle--the keep of O[u]kubo Kaga no Kami,
with his hundred thousand _koku_ and the trust of the suzerain worth all
his other honours. Ah! Here is the eight roofed Minoya, best of its kind
in the town. And what a town. Between wine, food, and singing girls, one
loiters as long as a second Odawara conference; at times to one's
ruin.... Ah! Ha! A stop for the mid-day meal. Ne[e]san, no more delay
than needed. Speed is urgent, yet food and wine of the best. The
honoured Shukké Sama is affected toward vegetable food.... What! The
Buddha called wine _hannyato_--hot water bringing wisdom? Ne[e]san, the
honoured Shukké Sama is a man of sense, no ascetic when unsatiated--or
on a journey. He would wear out belly and _waraji_ (sandals) on the same
service. Fish boiled with a little salt, _sashimi_ (sliced raw
fish)--and _don't_ forget the _kamaboku_ (fish paste). Two bottles for
each, with as much more heating. Bring a large bowl, empty. Never mind
the change.... And now, honoured Shukké Sama, deign at least to the
uninitiated the basis of this wondrous argument." Dentatsu could not
take offence at his merry humour. Himself he smiled, as he poured from
the second bottle of the wine. "Yes; the Buddha has called wine
_hannyato_, thus permitting its use to the initiated; just as stronger
foods, properly labelled, are fit for the belly. Thus by the mouth is
purified what goes into the belly. If the mouth can perform lustration
in the one case, it can do so by its exercise in another and more
intimate fashion." The fellow was immensely pleased. Leaning over he had
drunk in the countenance of the priest in the course of his
argument--"Naruhodo! A big body: 'twas feared the mind would be small.
Deign, honoured sir, to wait a moment; a purchase to make...." Off he
bolted with the _domburi_ or large bowl, something of a mystery to the
priest. It was soon solved by his reappearance with the vessel filled
with the small salted squid (_ika_). "There! Honoured Shukké Sama,
sample the best of Odawara town, noted for _kamaboku_ and its small
fish-salted; and of these the _ika_ is unsurpassed." As they drank the
wine, urged on by the savoury relish, he gave few and brief directions.
The food was wrapped up by the _ne[e]san_, several bottles of wine put
in the package, for use in a journey that must be pressed. "Now--the
bill; for you, _ne[e]san_, what is left over. Honoured Shukké Sama, a
gentle pace for the time being. The belly full, one loiters to let it do
its work. From here to Yumoto is a _ri_ (2-1/2 miles), of most gentle
rise. And what a pretty scene; the valley narrowing to its clinging
hills hiding the strange and beautiful scenes beyond, yet which cause a
little fear even to the stoutest hearts. This river seems alive,
twisting, and turning, and pouring in multitudinous and minute falls
over the rounded boulders. The greater falls are naught else--on the
larger scale. All day one could watch the twists and turns of one spot
in a rivulet, white, green, almost black, yet never the same.... Note
how the pass narrows. This is Hata, beyond is the monkey's clinging
hill--well named. More than one rock from the steep above has torn away
the traveller's grasp and crushed a skull as if an egg shell." They
breasted the steep hills through forest, came out on the gentler upper
slopes covered with the long bamboo grass through which could be seen
the rough heaped up surface of volcanic debris. The trader came to a
halt. "A request to make."
"Ah! Now the fellow's mask is off--in this lonely spot.... He shall have
a tussle for it." Dentatsu was as much enraged as scared. Grasping his
staff he faced the townsman with harshness and visible irritation. Said
the latter testily--"Put off the honoured scowl. Truly the distrust of
the Shukké Sama is most uncomplimentary. But--as priest of Zo[u]jo[u]ji,
and on its mission, there is a passport. Women or guns with such, and
those unfurnished, cannot pass the barrier. I am unfurnished." Dentatsu
showed his amazement--"Yet you would journey to the capital!
And...."--"Started in great haste, without time even for equipment, as
can be seen--in a way. Deign to grant the request of entering in
'companion.' With this favour all will be well, and the obligation
greater." Said the priest gravely--"True: and companions for the day,
breaking food together, it is no great matter. But a townsman as
company--the barrier guards would certainly make question."--"Write the
matter in; write the matter in. They shall have answer.... For whom? The
name is Jimbei, of Kanda ward; but just now a servant of Zo[u]jo[u]ji.
Jimbei will be a credit to the honoured Shukké Sama. Write it in." His
manner was so peremptory that the priest drew forth his writing
materials. With one hand grinding his tablet of ink, with one eye
watching Jimbei, he saw him disappear into the bushes. With misgiving
the characters were added to the passport, a gentle forgery easy to the
cleric in mind and hand. Who would not cheat barrier and customs, and
feel all the better for the deed? To the misgivings were added a gasp of
astonishment. From the bush appeared Jimbei clad in full raiment of a
temple servant, carrying pole and the two boxes (_ryo[u]gaké_) on his
shoulders, and so like to the rôle that Dentatsu felt as travelling in
the style of his betters. "But ... in this lonely place how effect such
change? How...." Jimbei quietly removed the document dangling from his
fingers. "How--and why--and which--and where--all these are for later
explanation. Time presses if Sumpu is to be reached at night. Jimbei
answers for the credit of the Go Shukké Sama. Now, honoured sir--down
the hill with you." They were standing on the crest overlooking the lake
far below. Jimbei set the example by starting off at a rapid pace. Never
had priest better attendant, or one more skilled in dealing with barrier
curiosity. He was loquacious, without giving information. The matter was
clear, and Jimbei gave hint as to the mission and the burden. Dentatsu
was given early clearance. At the top of Muko[u]zaka Jimbei loyally
restored to him the precious burden until then assumed. "Now, sir
priest, be assured of Jimbei Dono's good faith. The favour has been
great. The acknowledgment shall be as great. In this life the Go Shukké
Sama and this Jimbei are bound in brotherhood." If Dentatsu felt
grateful, he also felt a little chilled.
"A wonderful fellow! Such legs on such a small body have never been
seen.... Nor such an eye. This man is as much brains as bulk. Every
member is intelligence--Extraordinary!" He kept this opinion to
himself. Aloud--"This Dentatsu admits his inferiority. He is worn out.
Since Jimbei balks Mishima town, from there onward this foolish priest
takes nag or _kago_." Was he speaking truth, or trying to get rid of
him? Jimbei stopped and observed him keenly. Bah! His was the master
mind over this poor cleric. "The Shukké Sama already has had test of
Jimbei's wit and talk. Deign not to spit folly. Leave the matter to
Jimbei, and be assured that the passage of time and space will go
unobserved." Nor did the priest find it otherwise. The leagues passed on
apace. At this rest shed they stopped awhile for tea, and to consume
provision. At another Jimbei halted to order _saké_ for himself and
companion. The sun was far down as the ferrymen landed them on the
further side of the Fujikawa. Okitsu? Mio no Matsubara? No indeed:
passing under the walls of the Seikenji, Jimbei spoke with enthusiasm of
the place famed for eatables--Sumpu town. To[u]to[u]mi-wan, Suruga-wan,
furnished the fish, unsurpassed; the _tai_ (bream) of Okitsu, famed for
_sashimi_--all these, including the best _saké_ in Nippon. Dentatsu
sighed with weariness and anticipated pleasure of the table set. Passing
through the darkness of full night the mass of a castle bulk could be
made out. Then they came into the blaze of such light as a large
provincial town afforded. Said Jimbei, with some exultation--"Sumpu
town, and its inns of note. Eh! Honoured Shukké Sama!"