from, and perhaps necessarily, in consequence of the large population;
in the country, however, I sometimes found tombs in retired and
inaccessible parts of the hills here, as well as in the more southern
provinces; but these were evidently the property of the wealthy
inhabitants.
As the traveller proceeds northward, the circular form of the tombs is
less common and they become more varied in their appearance. In Chusan,
Ningpo, and various other places in that district, a great number of
the coffins are placed on the surface of the ground and merely thatched
over with straw. I met with these coffins in all sorts of places,--on
the sides of the public highway--on the banks of the rivers and
canals--and in woods and other retired parts of the country. Sometimes
the thatch was completely off, the wood rotten, and the remains of the
Chinamen of former days exposed to view. On one hill side on the island
of Chusan, skulls and bones are lying about in all directions, and more
than once when wandering through the long brushwood in this place, I
have been entangled by getting my feet through the lid of a coffin.
[Illustration: Tombs on the Island of Chusan.]
I believe that the wealthy in these districts generally bury their
dead, and some of them build very chaste and beautiful tombs. There
are three or four very fine ones in the island of Chusan, where the
paving in front of the mound which contains the body is beautiful,
and the carving elaborate; the whole of the stone-work is square,
instead of circular as in the tombs in the south of China. Here, as
at home--and I believe in every part of the world--trees of the pine
tribe are generally planted in the burying-grounds. Lord Jocelyn,
in his "Campaign in China," mentions such places in the following
beautiful and appropriate language:--"Here and there, as if dropped
at random upon the sides of the hills, were clumps of pine trees, and
peeping through their thick foliage, the roofs of houses and temples
diversified the scene. Amongst many of the beautiful groves of trees
which here invite the wanderer to repose, spots are selected as the
resting-places of mortality; and gazing on those tranquil scenes, where
the sweet clematis and fragrant flowers help to decorate the last home
of man, the most careless eye cannot fail to mark the beauties of the
grave."
In the Shanghae district I have frequently visited large houses which
seem to have been built by the rich expressly as mausoleums. In these
houses I generally found a coffin in one of the principal rooms, and an
altar, with all the trappings of idolatry, where incense on high days
is burned to the memory of the deceased, and various other ceremonies
are gone through by the relatives. These houses or temples are
generally surrounded by a pine wood, and sometimes the body is buried
out of doors--the altar and records only being kept in the temple,
where a servant with his family is always placed to look after them.
When the English first established themselves at Shanghae, some of
them had thoughts of taking houses in the country that their families
might enjoy retirement and fresh air. One day towards the end of 1843,
I accompanied a gentleman of my acquaintance on an errand of this
kind. When we had proceeded about six or eight miles from Shanghae, we
observed a good-looking house in a wood hard by, and determined to pay
it a visit and see whether the occupant would be inclined to let it.
As we drew near, all was still and quiet; not even our old enemies,
the dogs, appeared to dispute our approach. When the Chinese,--who
always followed us in considerable numbers wherever we went--saw us
approaching the house, they stood still at a little distance, watching
our proceedings with a great degree of interest. We knocked at the door
of the mansion, and then stood at one side so that the porter might not
see that his visitors were the _Hong-mou-jins_, or red-haired race,
as they are pleased to call the English; for we well knew that if we
were seen, the door would not be opened. In a few seconds we heard the
sounds of feet, and then a voice summoned us to know our business.
We mumbled something in Chinese, and the poor man, quite unconscious
of his danger, threw open the door. I shall never forget the look of
mingled fear and astonishment which he gave us as we quietly walked
into the court; at the same time the group of natives outside were
indulging in hearty laughter at the way in which he had been entrapped.
The court-yard, where we now were, was neatly paved, and the whole of
the house appeared to be in excellent repair. As we were led from room
to room by our terrified guide, every thing appeared quite suitable
for a country residence, at least, as good as one could expect in such
an out-of-the-way place, and my friend remarked that it was the best
he had yet seen, and that he should certainly make an effort to get
possession of it. At last we came to what appeared the principal room:
"Ah, this shall be my drawing-room," said my companion, "but what is
that?" added he in the same breath. I looked in the direction in which
he pointed, and a large massive coffin met my eye. We then discovered
that we were in one of those places set apart for the remains of the
dead.
During one of my journeys in the interior, I met with a very curious
tomb near the town of Sung-kiang-foo. It was placed on the side of
a hill, in a wood, and evidently belonged to some very wealthy or
important personage of that city. From the base of the hill to where
the tomb stood about halfway up--the visitor ascended by abroad flight
of steps, on each side of which were placed a number of figures carved
in stone. As far as I can recollect, the following was the order in
which the figures were placed; first, a pair of goats or sheep, one
on each side; second, two dogs; third, two cats; fourth, two horses
saddled and bridled; and fifth, two most gigantic priests; the effect
of the whole being most strange and imposing. There is another tomb of
the same description near Ningpo, but on a much smaller scale.
The flowers which the Chinese plant on or among the tombs are simple
and beautiful in their kind. No expensive camellias, moutans, or other
of the finer ornaments of the garden are chosen for this purpose.
Sometimes the conical mound of earth,--when the grave is of this
kind,--is crowned with a large plant of fine, tall, waving grass;
at Ningpo wild roses are planted, which soon spread themselves over
the grave, and, when their flowers expand in spring, cover it with a
sheet of pure white. At Shanghae a pretty bulbous plant, a species of
_Lycoris_, covers the graves in autumn with masses of brilliant purple.
When I first discovered the _Anemone Japonica_, it was in full flower
amongst the graves of the natives, which are round the ramparts of
Shanghae; it blooms in November, when other flowers have gone by, and
is a most appropriate ornament to the last resting-places of the dead.
The poor, as well as the rich, often keep their dead in their
dwelling-houses for a long time; I should imagine, from the numerous
coffins which I met with in such circumstances, that many are thus kept
for years. The coffins are remarkably thick and strong, and the joints
so carefully cemented that no unpleasant smell is emitted during the
decay of the body.
Much of the respect which is paid by the Chinese to the memory of their
deceased relatives, may doubtless be a mere matter of form, sanctioned
and rendered necessary by the custom of ages, but I am inclined to
think that a considerable portion springs from a higher and purer
source, and I have no doubt that when the Chinese periodically visit
the tombs of their fathers to worship and pay respect to their memory,
they indulge in the pleasing reflection, that when they themselves are
no more, their graves will not be neglected or forgotten--but will also
be visited by their children and grand-children, in whose hearts and
affections they will live for many, many years after their bodies have
mouldered into dust.
[Illustration: Tomb of a Mandarin's Wife.]
CHAP. XVIII.
PLANTS SHIPPED FOR ENGLAND.--SAIL FOR MANILA.--NATURAL
PRODUCTIONS AND EXPORTS.--PASSPORT ANNOYANCES.--THE INTERIOR OF
LUZON--ITS LAGUNA.--EARLY MORNING IN THE PHILIPPINES.--VALUABLE
PLANTS PROCURED.--THE "QUEEN OF ORCHIDS."--NATURAL HABITS OF
AIR-PLANTS.--LAWLESS BANDITTI OF THE INTERIOR.--A FALSE ALARM.--MONKEYS
MORE HARMLESS THAN MEN.--A NIGHT AT DOLORES WITH THE PADRE.--VOLCANOES
IN THE PHILIPPINES.--GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.--LEECHES NOT
VERY AGREEABLE COMPANIONS.--RETURN TO MANILA AND SHIP PLANTS FOR
ENGLAND.--SAIL FOR THE NORTH OF CHINA.--"A MAN OVERBOARD"--HIS RECOVERY
BY A GALLANT BOAT'S CREW.--ARRIVE IN THE NORTH.
The collections of plants and seeds which I had made during the summer
and autumn of 1844 arrived in safety at Hong-kong, and I lost no time
in shipping them for England. All the living objects were planted as
usual in "Ward's cases," well guarded with iron bars and placed upon
the poops of the largest vessels I could find then at anchor in the
bay. I always took care to divide my collections into three or four
parts for the purpose of sending them by different ships, so that if
any thing happened to one portion, the others had a chance of reaching
England in safety. The last shipment at this time was made on the 31st
of December. As it was then winter in the northern provinces, and as
nothing could be done in the south, I determined to go over to the
Philippine Islands for a few weeks, and accordingly sailed for Manila
in the beginning of January, 1845.
The voyage from Hong-kong to Manila at this season is generally
made in six or eight days, as the monsoon is fair. I need not give
any description of the town, which is well known as being the chief
Spanish settlement in the Philippines. The inhabitants are principally
Spaniards, Indians, Chinese, and there are a few English mercantile
establishments. The chief productions and exports are sugar, coffee,
rice, cheroots, and indigo. The beautiful cloth generally known by the
name of _Pinia_, which is made from the fibre of the pine-apple plant,
is manufactured and embroidered by the natives and is sold in the
shops. A kind of hemp, the produce of a species of _Musa_, is also made
into ropes and cables; it is highly prized and in much demand amongst
the shipping in the East. The cigar manufactory, a government monopoly,
is one of the largest establishments in the town; almost the whole of
the labour in it is performed by women and girls. When I landed, it
happened to be the hour when the work people were coming out of the
factory and the streets were crowded with females. As I was not aware
of the circumstance, I began to think that the women must form the
chief part of the population.
As I had no object in remaining in the town, I applied to the
authorities for a passport to enable me to proceed at once into the
interior of the island. The traveller, if he is not well acquainted
with the customs of the place, is exposed to much annoyance from the
Spanish regulations regarding passports. Some new regulations had been
established just before my arrival, and I found that I could not land
without either having a passport, or getting some well-known merchant
to become surety for my conduct. Having landed, a second passport was
necessary to enable me to remain on the island, another before I could
go into the interior, and a fourth when I wished to leave the country.
These passports had to be signed by different individuals, and at
different offices, and if the slightest informality occurred, the party
was turned back or the vessel detained. I was much indebted to Messrs.
Butler, and Messrs. Holliday, Wise & Co., English merchants at Manila,
who rendered me every assistance in their power.
Having at length got over these difficulties and engaged some guides
and servants, our baggage was put into a Banca or boat, and we started
for the Laguna, a large lake in the interior, and the source of the
river on which the town of Manila stands. We had to cross the lake; and
we were strongly advised to do so at night, as it is generally smooth
at this time. We soon perceived the value of this advice. The Bancas
are built long and narrow for swiftness, as they have often to make way
against a rapid current, which flows down the river. Out-riggers are
fixed to the sides of the boats, to enable the Indians to run out and
balance them when the wind comes down in strong puffs, and when without
these they would be often thrown on their beam ends and capsized.
When I awoke in the morning we were half-way across the lake, and
day was just dawning. Those who have never been in eastern tropical
countries can form no idea of the beauty and freshness of early morning
in the Philippines. The broad sheet of water through which we were
swiftly passing was smooth as glass, and shone like a mirror; there was
not a breath of air to disturb it. The shores of the lake were rich in
vegetation; trees and bushes dipping their luxuriant branches into the
water, and crowning the summit of every hill. In this beautiful region
winter is unknown, for here, "the trees ever blossom, the beams ever
shine."
As soon as the sun began to appear above the horizon, the whole surface
of the lake was put in motion by the breeze which then began to blow,
and which gradually increased until it became a pretty strong gale. Our
sail was close reefed, and all the crew except the man at the helm,
stood on the out-riggers to balance the boat, walking out or in as the
wind was more or less powerful. In less than half an hour the lake was
covered with waves rolling like those of the sea. Every now and then
we took one on board, and were soon, as well as our beds and baggage,
completely drenched with water. Luckily we were near our destination
on the opposite shore, where we soon arrived in safety. I counsel all
travellers to beware of crossing the Laguna; by day and I took good
care to avoid doing so on my return.
Having landed I made the best of my way to the farm of Don Inego
Gonzales de Azaola, whom I had met in Manila, and who had kindly
offered me the use of his house in the interior. My chief object in
visiting this part of the country was to procure, if possible, a supply
of the beautiful orchid (_Phalænopsis amabilis_), which Cuming had sent
home a few years before, but which was still extremely rare in England.
His Grace the Duke of Devonshire purchased the first plant, for which
he gave the large sum of one hundred guineas.
As I had very little time to spare, I was anxious to make the most of
my opportunities. I made an Indian's hut in the wood my head quarters
where I held a sort of market for the purchase of orchids. The Indians
knew the hour at which I should return to the hut, and on my arrival
I generally found the ground in front strewed with orchids in the
state in which they had been cut from the trees, and many of them
covered with flowers. The _Phalænopsis_, in particular, was singularly
beautiful. I was very anxious to get some large specimens of the plant,
and offered a dollar, which was a high sum in an Indian forest, for
the largest which should be brought to me. The lover of this beautiful
tribe will easily imagine the delight I felt, when, one day I saw two
Indians approaching with a plant of extraordinary size, having ten
or twelve branching flower-stalks upon it, and upwards of a hundred
flowers in full bloom. "There," said they, in triumph, "is not that
worth a dollar?" I acknowledged that they were well entitled to the
reward, and took immediate possession of my prize. This plant is now in
the garden of the Horticultural Society of London; and although it was
a little reduced, in order to get it into the plant case at Manila, is
still by far the largest specimen in Europe. This beautiful species may
be well called the "Queen of Orchids."
The air-plants are not found so frequently in the dense shaded parts of
the forests as in the edges of the woods, on trees by the road-sides,
and in exposed situations. I found the genus _Aërides_ very often
in the most dense parts of the woods, but never a single plant of
_Phalænopsis_. The latter was commonly found growing on the branches
of the Mango in the cleared parts of the woods, near the cottages of
the Indians, and sometimes on the very tops of high trees where it was
fully exposed to the sun. I confess this fact was quite contrary to
the opinion I had formed of the habits of these plants; for I expected
to have found them principally in damp shaded forests, where the sun's
rays could seldom penetrate; but such is not the case, at least in the
Philippine Islands.
Having ransacked the country around Don Inego's farm, I now set off,
accompanied by my servants and some other Indians to St. Pablo and
Dolores. Dolores is a small village in a wild part of the country,
where the natives bear a very bad character, having frequently attacked
and robbed travellers. During our progress my companions related a
great many stories of this kind, and were evidently not a little
frightened. The roads were only narrow lanes, leading through dense
thickets of brushwood, and the locality was certainly an excellent
one for lawless characters of every description to do exactly as they
pleased in. On one occasion, when I had gone a little way ahead of the
party, something alarmed them, and the whole set took to their heels
and ran off in another direction. I rode back after the fugitives,
and being well armed explored the ground in every direction to find
out the cause of their alarm, but could discover nothing, and at
length I persuaded them to return and pursue the journey. Shortly
after this, however, a wild-looking Indian stepped out of the forest,
and stood eyeing us narrowly as we passed him oil the road. He had a
short matchlock in his hand, and evidently belonged to the band of
free-booters who infested this part of the country. I passed him in
a very slow and deliberate manner, taking care to watch his motions,
and to let him see that I and some of my party were well armed, and
prepared for any attack. After looking at us in silence for a minute or
two, he jumped into the jungle and disappeared.
As our path winded through the jungle, we sometimes could only see
a very short distance either before or behind us. At one of these
bends we heard a noise amongst the bushes, as if a number of men
were advancing rapidly towards us, and naturally concluded that we
were about to be attacked. A halt was instantly called, and then the
question was whether we should advance or recede. As I had no time to
lose I looked to my fire-arms and determined to proceed. Accordingly
I rode forward a few paces to reconnoitre, and saw a numerous band,
not of robbers or free-booters, but--I hope my courteous reader will
not laugh--of monkeys! there must have been several hundreds of
these animals on the trees, jumping about from branch to branch, and
evidently enjoying themselves vastly. As we passed amongst them they
commenced chattering and making all sorts of faces at us.
At length we reached the little village of Dolores, and as in duty
bound, I immediately went to pay my respects to the Padre. His house
was a small miserable hut, little better than those of the Indians
which surrounded it, and poorly furnished.
He received us kindly, and told us that we were welcome to the shelter
his house afforded, and that although he had little to offer us in
the way of luxuries, he should do every thing in his power to make us
comfortable. At the same time he informed us we were in a dangerous
neighbourhood, and that he could not answer for the security of the
ponies or baggage. The servants and Indians who accompanied me, were
accommodated in another house which was building for the Padre, and
the ponies were tied up there, and a watch set over them. The Indians
mounted guard by turns; they were well armed, and as they were much
frightened, there was no danger of their neglecting their duty. I was
told in the morning, that they had been roused several times during
the night; but I fancy imagination had something to do with it, as
I found that every thing belonging to us was perfectly safe. In the
evening, after dark, the worthy Padre did every thing in his power to
amuse me. He had an old pianoforte which had found its way by some
means into this wild mountain district, but I presume it had never
been tuned since its first arrival, for it was sadly out of order. On
this he played a number of Spanish and Italian airs, accompanying the
instrument with his voice. After exhausting his own stock of songs
he sent for his servant-boy, and the head man of the village, who
were musicians, and got up a sort of concert. The Padre played on the
pianoforte, the boy on the fife, and the other on the clarionette. It
must be confessed, however, that the music was not very harmonious.
The greater part of the following day was spent in exploring the
surrounding country, and in the afternoon I bade the hospitable
priest adieu, and started for St. Pablo, which was situated in a more
civilised part of the country. There, also, and indeed wherever I went,
the priests were most kind and hospitable.
The Philippine Islands must, atone time, have been a complete nest of
volcanoes. With one exception, they are now all inactive; but traces
of them were met with at every step of our progress through the higher
districts of the country, in the form of circular pools of stagnant
water, and masses of lava which still emit a most disagreeable odour
when they are stirred up. On the top of a high hill, near St. Pablo, I
came unexpectedly on the remains of a still more recent volcano. The
trees in its vicinity were in a most unhealthy state, many of their
roots and branches being decayed. Sometimes I sunk nearly up to the
knees amongst burnt-looking earth, which emitted a strong sulphureous
smell; and, as none of the natives were with me, I was sometimes afraid
of getting into the mouth of the crater, and going down altogether.
The Island of Luzon, of which Manila is the capital, is very like
Java and other parts of the straits. It is very hilly, but extremely
fertile, and affords a most striking contrast to the barren shores
of the south of China which I had just left. Large crops of rice are
produced on the low lands which are capable of being flooded. Sugar
and tobacco are grown on such ground as would produce good wheat in
England; and coffee and chocolate trees are planted on the sides of
the hills. The Manila mango is considered one of the finest in the
world, not inferior to that which is produced near Bombay. Cocoa-nuts,
plantains, bananas, and other tropical fruits abound, and are to be
had in great perfection. Besides these oranges are also cultivated;
but they are inferior to those of China and Europe; indeed, as might
be expected, all the fruits, natives of more northern latitudes, which
we find in these islands, are far surpassed by the same kinds which
grow in climates more congenial to their nature. The vine is largely
cultivated, but it produces grapes of a very inferior quality.
The mountainous portions of the country are for the most part in
a state of nature, being covered with trees, and with brushwood;
which in some places is so thick that I had to employ the Indians to
cut a way through it with small billhooks which they kept for the
purpose. In other parts, the tops of the tall trees form a mass so
dense, that no ray ever shines through them. The ground on the sides
of these mountains is always in a moist and slimy condition; and is
the habitation of millions of leeches. In my first excursion to the
mountains I observed the feet and legs of the Indians, who were cutting
a path for me, covered with blood, and at first I fancied that they
must have wounded themselves with the thorny shrubs which they were
cutting. On inquiry, however, I found that it was the leeches that
were doing the mischief, and in a very little time I had a good many
specimens of their powers upon my own skin. There were two species, one
a small linear one, and the other nearly round. "Whenever the former
fixed upon the Indians, they invariably pulled it off, but they never
interfered with the little round one. I found that the reason for this
was, that the latter, if taken off by force, would leave a very painful
wound; but that, if allowed to suck until it was full, it would drop
off, of its own accord, and leave scarcely a mark; the other species
might be taken off with impunity. At first, when they fixed themselves
upon me, which they did through my stockings, I set to work to pull
them off, without regard to species, although warned by the natives of
the impropriety of doing so. In a short time my legs were covered with
blood, and the wounds annoyed me with a kind of itching soreness for
several days afterwards.
With the exception of the Orchids, the Philippines are not very rich
in plants of an ornamental kind. As far as I had an opportunity of
judging, the vegetation of Luzon bears a great resemblance to the
island of Java and the other parts of the Malay Archipelago. The
country is, however, very rich in birds and shells, and many of the
land species of the latter are extremely valuable. Mr. Cuming, who is
well known in this part of the world, made very large collections of
them, and has already distributed them over the greater part of Europe
and America.
After spending about three weeks in the interior of Luzon and having
procured a fine supply of the beautiful _Phalænopsis_, and several
other Orchids, I returned to the town of Manila, and shipped a portion
of them to England. These, I am happy to say, arrived in excellent
order; and upon reference to the garden-lists on my return, I find that
no fewer than forty-five specimens of this lovely plant--the "Queen of
Orchids"--had been distributed amongst the Fellows of the Horticultural
Society of London.
The time which I had allotted for this excursion having expired, I
sailed for my old station in the north of China and arrived there on
the 14th of March, 1845. On going up the coast, we had to contend with
the north-east monsoon, and "beat to windward," during the whole of the
passage. One afternoon when it was nearly dark, and when the sea was
running very high, one of the men who was out on the bowsprit lost his
hold, owing to the heaving of the vessel, and fell into the sea. The
cry of a "man over board"--that peculiar cry amongst sailors which,
once heard, can never be forgotten, made me rush on deck. The schooner
was going at the rate of at least eight knots, but her helm was
instantly put down, and her way stopped. A hand was sent aloft to keep
his eye upon the poor fellow whose head was seen every now and then as
he rose upon a wave, and in a few seconds the schooner was close at
his side. A rope was thrown out to him, and every one thought that he
would be able to lay hold, and be drawn in over the side. Probably from
exhaustion he unfortunately missed it, and the schooner shooting ahead
at the time, he was again left to the mercy of the waves. As a last
resource the boat was lowered; and although rather a dangerous service,
several gallant fellows stepped into it and pulled in the direction
signalled to them from the ship. Those on board were in a state of the
most painful suspense. When we caught a glimpse of the man from time
to time, he was evidently sinking, and in a few more seconds all must
have been over with him. The boat was nearly lost to us in the closing
darkness, and the men told us that they were on the point of returning
to the ship without getting a glimpse of their poor messmate, when they
saw his head raised above a wave close by; and pulling towards him,
they caught him by the hair, and drew him into the boat. When brought
on board he was in a most exhausted state, but the usual remedies being
applied he recovered in the course of the night.
CHAP. XIX.
SPRING IN THE NORTH OF CHINA.--NEW FLOWERS.--JOURNEY THROUGH THE
COUNTRY.--MOTLEY GROUP OF FELLOW-PASSENGERS.--A MORNING SCENE IN
A CHINESE JUNK.--TARTAR CITY OF CHAPOO.--SHOPS AND TRADE.--CROWDS
OF PEOPLE.--A VISIT TO THE MANDARINS.--A FREE PASSAGE ONWARD
OFFERED--THEIR OBJECT IN THIS.--MEANS TAKEN TO THWART THEM.--LEAVE
CHAPOO FOR SHANGHAE.--COUNTRY AND TOWN OF PING-HOO.--SILK DISTRICTS
VISITED.--CULTIVATION OF THE MULBERRY.--MANAGEMENT OF THE
SILK-WORM.--ARRIVAL AT SHANGHAE.--CONSUL'S LETTER ENCLOSING ONE FROM
THE TAOUTAE, OR HEAD MANDARIN.--A MOST SATISFACTORY REPLY!
It was the commencement of spring when I returned to the north of
China. In this season of the year no country can be more agreeable or
healthy than this. The air is bracing, the sky generally clear, and
the mornings are delightfully cool. Before long, vegetation progressed
with wonderful rapidity, far surpassing any thing of the kind I had
ever witnessed in England. By the middle of April, deciduous trees and
shrubs were covered with leaves, barley was in full ear, and the oil
plant (_Brassica sinensis_) was seen forming masses of golden yellow,
on the hill sides and on the plains, where the air was perfumed with
the fragrance of its blossoms.
My object during this summer was to make a complete collection of
all my finest plants, for the purpose of taking them home under
my own care. I lost no time, therefore, in visiting all my former
acquaintances, mandarins and nurserymen--and made my selections when
the plants were in bloom. _Tree-pæonies, Azaleas, Viburnums, Daphnes,
Roses,_ and many other plants, all new to Europe, and of great beauty,
were from time to time added to this collection. As many of these
plants could be only verified by the colour of their flowers, it was
absolutely necessary that I should visit the different districts three
or four times during the spring, and consequently that I should lose
as little time as possible in travelling from one place to another.
Shanghae, Chusan, Ningpo, and many other parts of the interior, all
lying wide of each other, had some object of interest which demanded my
presence and attention.
The distance from Ningpo to Shanghae is about a hundred miles. I had
completed my researches in the Ningpo district, and was very anxious
to get to Shanghae as soon as possible, in order to see some Azaleas
in bloom, which I was anxious to add to my collections. In another
fortnight their flowers would have been all faded, and it would then
have been impossible to identify the different varieties. There were
two routes from Ningpo to Shanghae, one for the foreigners and the
other for the natives. The _legal_ road was to go across to Chusan,
then garrisoned by the English, a distance of thirty or forty miles,
nearly due east, and then take the chance of finding some vessel about
to sail for Woosung or Shanghae. I knew that if I took this line,
in all probability I should have to wait for eight or ten days in
Chusan before such an opportunity would occur, a delay which would
have entirely defeated the object which I had in view. I determined,
therefore, to go by the interdicted route, and take my chance of
consequences.
The journey overland was a very interesting one. When I reached the
town of Chinhae, at the mouth of the Ningpo river, I found that some
small junks were to sail that evening for Chapoo, and I lost no time in
securing a passage on board one of them. I was surprised at my success
thus far, as I had anticipated my greatest, if not my only difficulty
would have been in making a start. I found afterwards that I was
indebted for this to my Chinese servant, who happened to be a native of
Chinhae and knew the captain of the junk. He persuaded him that there
was no harm in my going by that route; and, at all events, that he
could easily land me at Chapoo, and that nobody would know how I had
come there.
In the evening, after many delays on account of wind and tide, and also
with the view of securing more passengers and cargo, we lifted our
anchor and set sail. In crossing the bay of Hangchow, the tide runs
very rapidly, and the Chinese junks and boats never go across without a
fair or leading wind. I shall never forget the strange and motley group
of passengers who were my fellow-travellers in this little vessel.
We were all huddled together in the centre cabin, and our beds were
spread down on each side, merely leaving room for us to walk down the
middle. Some of the passengers were respectable merchants, but even
these had something filthy and disagreeable about them. Little insects
whose names sound harsh to "ears polite," were charitably supported in
great numbers amongst the warm folds of their dresses. The first thing
I did when my bed was spread down, was to surround it with my trunks,
gun-case, and another box or two, to prevent, if possible, any visiters
of this description from leaving their rightful lord and master, and
taking up their quarters with me. With all my care it was next to
impossible to keep myself apart from the Chinese, owing to the motion
of the little vessel which sometimes sent us rolling from one side to
the other.
A great part of the night was spent by the Chinese in smoking opium
and tobacco. When morning dawned, the scene which the cabin presented
was a strange one. Nearly all the passengers were sound asleep. They
were lying in heaps, here and there, as they had been tossed and wedged
by the motion of the vessel during the night. Their features and
appearance, as seen in the twilight of a summer morning, were striking
to the eye of a foreigner. I almost fancied that I could read the
characters of the different beings who lay stretched before me. There
was the habitual opium smoker--there was no mistaking him--his looks
were pale and haggard, his breathing quick and disturbed, and so thin
was he, that his cheek bones seemed piercing the skin. Some seemed
care-worn with business, and others again apparently slept soundly with
hearts light and joyous. All had the fore part of their heads shaved,
and their tails lay about in wild confusion.
We were now far on our way across the bay having had a fair wind and
tide during the greater part of the night, and the hills near Chapoo
were already visible on the horizon to the northward. All hands were
soon busily engaged in getting breakfast ready. A Chinese sea breakfast
consists chiefly of rice, fish, and vegetables. The proprietors of the
junk provide food for the passengers, for which they charge a small
sum from each, independent of the passage-money. If the passengers do
not choose to have breakfast, or dinner, they are not required to pay
for it. When breakfast was ended, some began to smoke opium and others
tobacco, after which most of them went to bed again and were soon fast
asleep. The Chinese when travelling do little else than eat, smoke, and
sleep. During the whole time I was travelling in the country, I never
remember seeing one Chinese engaged in reading.
About eleven in the forenoon we came to anchor in a muddy bay abreast
of the city of Chapoo, where many of the junks are high and dry at low
water. I had my luggage put into a small sand-pan and rowed for the
shore. "You had better take off your shoes and stockings, and draw up
your trowsers," said one of the Chinese boatmen as we were getting near
the landing-place. The prudence and necessity of this advice was soon
apparent; for when the boat touched the beach, I found that I had to
walk a quarter of a mile up to the knees in mud, before I could get on
firm ground. Now came the critical part of my expedition. When I had
got through the mud, I inquired for the nearest spring and commenced
my ablutions, making no attempt to disguise myself, as I was dressed
in the common English garb. Long before I had finished washing, I
was surrounded by some hundreds of the natives, who seemed perfectly
astonished at the sight of an Englishman, although this place had
been attacked and taken during the late War. All sorts of inquiries
were made regarding me; "where had I come from?" "where was I bound
for?" "what were my objects?" and a hundred other questions were put
to me, or to those who accompanied me. All were, however, quite civil
and did not attempt to annoy me in the slightest degree. I now walked
to some hills near the city, and inspected their vegetation. On the
way I visited some temples which had been battered down by our troops
during the war, and which still remained in the same ruinous condition.
Hundreds of people followed me to the hills, the view from which is one
of the finest I ever saw in this country. Here it is that the hills
of the south end, and the wide plain of the Yang-tse-kiang commences.
On one side, looking towards the south and west, mountains are seen
towering in all their grandeur; whilst on the northern side, the eye
rests on a rich and level plain, watered by its thousand canals, and
dotted all over with towns and villages peopled with an immense number
of industrious and happy human beings. Chapoo and the country which
surrounds it may well be called the garden of China.
After inspecting the hills, I went down into the Tartar city of Chapoo.
The suburbs are large and populous, but the walled city itself is not
very extensive. It is a square, and the circuit of the walls is not
more than three miles; they seem very old, and are surrounded by a
moat, which also serves the purpose of a canal. Here the Tartar troops
and their families reside, living entirely apart from the Chinese
inhabitants of the town.
The streets, houses, and shops are of the same kind as those which
I have already described. Indeed, so like is one town in China to
another, that, if a traveller well acquainted with the northern cities,
was set down blindfolded in one of them, he would have the greatest
difficulty in saying whether it was Chapoo, Ningpo, or Shanghae. I
observed in the shops a considerable quantity of Japanese goods, which
are brought annually to this place by the junks which trade with Japan.
By the time I had examined all the chief objects of interest, it was
late in the afternoon, and I began to think of leaving the city and
taking the road for Shanghae. I had already taken measures by means
of my servant to find the part of the canal from which the Shanghae
boats started, and thither proceeded with the intention of engaging a
boat. A numerous crowd had surrounded and accompanied me, during the
whole of the day; but now that I was on the eve of taking my departure,
it was greatly augmented. Every street, lane, window, and house-top
was crowded with human beings; all, however, perfectly harmless and
civil. When I reached the canal and attempted to speak with one of the
boatmen, the crowd pressed after me in such numbers, that the boat,
had I got on board, would probably have been swamped. The poor boatmen
were so frightened, that no reward which I could hold out would induce
them to give me a passage. They begged and prayed me not to enter their
boats, as some accident would happen from the number of persons whom
nothing could prevent from crowding in after me.
I was now in a dilemma, and I scarcely knew how to get out of it. At
last I determined, much against my inclination, to go to the mandarins.
It is a bad plan to have any thing to do with Chinese officials when
it can be possibly avoided, but in this case there was no help for it;
so, having inquired for the residence of the superintendent of boats, I
set off to call upon him, followed, of course, by an immense mob. As we
were going to his house, my servant came up to me and requested that I
would not tell the mandarin that he was in my service, or that he had
any thing to do in bringing me there. As I could speak the language
sufficiently well to make myself understood, I did not need him as
an interpreter, and I was of course anxious not to bring him or his
relations into any scrape on my account.
When we reached the mandarin's house, the doors were thrown open, and I
walked boldly into the reception-room. It was a most difficult matter
for the servants to keep out the crowd, but they accomplished the task
partly by threats, and partly by whips, which they used rather more
freely than we should approve of in England. This, however, is a common
mode of punishing the rabble in China, and when they know they deserve
it they take it very quietly.
"Tell your master I want to see him," said I in a lofty tone to one
of the attendants, who immediately went into an inner apartment and
returned with the mandarin himself, clothed in his most imposing robes
of office,--hat, button, peacock feather, and all. I made him several
very low bows, which he most politely returned." I am in a great
hurry," said I, "to go on to Shanghae, and have been trying to engage a
boat for that purpose, but cannot succeed without your assistance. Will
you have the goodness to aid me?" After repeating after me what I had
said, as is the invariable custom in Chinese conversation, he put the
following question to me: "How old are you?" This may seem strange, but
it is considered complimentary by the Chinese, and is generally amongst
the first questions they put. I thanked him for his inquiry, told him
my age, and then asked his, and again proposed the question regarding
the boat. Upon this he promised to send one of his servants to get one,
and in the mean time invited me to take some cake and tea, which were
immediately set before me. The gun which I had with me was an object
of great curiosity to the old man, more particularly the locks and
percussion caps, which he told me he had never seen before. During the
time I was discussing the cake and tea, he asked me a multiplicity of
questions; such as, where had I come from last? who had told me there
was a road to Shanghae this way? &c. &c., some of which I answered, and
some I found it convenient not to understand. At last, through some
blunder on the part of my servant, it became known that he belonged to
me; a circumstance which was immediately communicated to the mandarin,
who sent for him and subjected him to a close and searching examination.
While this was going on, the mandarin of the highest rank in the city
arrived, having been sent for by his brother in office to hold a
conference regarding me. These worthies, after a long consultation in
a private room, came out and informed me, in the blandest manner, that
they intended to give me a free passage across the country to Shanghae,
in a boat belonging to themselves, and that, to add more to my comfort,
they would send another boat to convey my servant and luggage. This
seemed at first sight remarkably kind; but I had been long enough in
the celestial empire to be aware of the necessity of looking narrowly
into their motives, in order to counteract any evil designs they might
think proper to hide under their assumed kindness and civility. In this
instance their motives were perfectly plain to me, and were simply
these:--According to the treaty of Nanking, if any Englishman was found
beyond the boundaries which were to have been fixed at each of the five
ports, he was liable to be seized by the authorities and brought to
the nearest British Consul, who, in these circumstances, was obliged
to impose a very heavy fine upon the transgressor; and therefore, if I
had accepted their _kind_ offers, I should have found, on my arrival at
Shanghae, that I was a prisoner instead of a guest, and should, in all
probability, have been handed over as such to the British Consul. On
the other hand, if I hired my own boat, and went unaccompanied by any
of the mandarin's people, I was perfectly safe, according to the strict
letter of the treaty, even although a complaint were lodged against me
on my arrival at Shanghae. Nothing would have been done in the matter
by the British Consul unless I had been _bonâ fide_ taken up beyond the
boundaries, which was not likely to happen; as the Chinese officials
are extremely cautious in all matters of this kind, in order to avoid
getting themselves into trouble.
I immediately determined that I would not be outdone in politeness,
and therefore, with many bows and reiterated thanks, I told them that
I could not think of accepting so much gratuitous kindness, as I was
able to pay my own expenses; and that all I required of them was
simply permission to hire a small boat, with three or four men, which
would enable me to get on to Shanghae. They still kept on pressing
their offer upon me, which I continued as firmly to refuse. Another
long private conference between them was now held, which, I suppose,
ended in a determination to try what effect could be produced on my
servant, who was accordingly sent for. He was desired to tell me that
the distance between Chapoo and Shanghae was very great, and that the
roads were infested with bands of robbers who were sure to attack us;
and that they could not answer for the consequences unless another boat
and some of their own soldiers went along with us for protection. "Tell
them," said I, "that I have made up my mind to travel in my usual way,
and that no arguments which can be used will induce me to change my
opinion, and that the arms which I have shown them are quite sufficient
to repel the attacks of any robbers whom I may meet on the road." As
a last resource, they sent an officer and his servant to me, who said
that they were going to Shanghae, and would be extremely obliged if
I would allow them to accompany me. I was obliged to meet even this
_civil request_ with a refusal; and the mandarins, finding that they
must either use force or allow me to have my own way, finally gave up
the contest.
A boatman now made his appearance, and announced that he was ready to
proceed to Shanghae. When I rose to take my leave, I found that all the
servants and retainers had been ordered out for the purpose of keeping
off the crowd and seeing me safely into the boat. The two mandarins
accompanied me, and we marched off to the canal in grand style. The
crowd which had assembled was immense, but they were all perfectly
quiet and civil. When we reached the landing-place, I thanked my two
friends for their kindness, and bade them adieu: then stepping into the
boat she was pushed out into the stream, and we soon left the crowd and
the Tartar city far behind us.
The country through which we passed was perfectly level, highly
cultivated, and more richly wooded than any of the lowlands which I
had visited before. It was getting dark when we reached a town of
considerable size, named Ping-hoo, which is distant only a few miles
from Chapoo, and I determined to remain there for the night. When
the morning dawned I roused the Chinamen, and we proceeded on our
journey. We now passed through an extensive silk district, where the
mulberry-tree was the principal object of cultivation. The natives at
this time (May 18th) were busily employed in gathering the leaves and
feeding the silkworms with them.
The mulberry-trees are all grafted, and produce very fine thick
leaves. I obtained a plant, which is now alive in England, in order
to determine the particular variety, and whether it is different from
the kinds which are used for the purpose in Europe. It is not yet,
however, in a sufficiently advanced state for this to be ascertained.
One thing, however, is certain, that the silk produced in this district
is considered as being amongst the finest in China; but whether this is
owing to the particular variety of mulberry-tree used in feeding the
worms, or to climate or soil, still remains to be ascertained.
The trees, or rather bushes, are planted in rows, the banks of the
canals being a favourite situation; and they are not allowed to grow
more than from four to six feet in height. The natives set to work with
a pair of strong scissors, and cut all the young shoots off close by
the stump; they are then either stript of their leaves, or taken home
in bundles and stript afterwards. Before this operation takes place,
the plants seem in a high state of health, producing vigorous shoots
and fine large and thick shining leaves. After the leaves have been
taken off, the bushes look like a collection of dead stumps, and in
the middle of summer have a curious wintry appearance; but the rain,
which falls copiously, and the fertility of the soil, soon revive a
succulent plant like the mulberry. The Chinese seem very particular in
stirring up the earth amongst the roots of the bushes immediately after
the young branches and leaves have been taken off, and the plantations
appear to have great attention paid to them.
The farms are small, and are generally worked by the family and
relatives of the farmer; who not only plant, graft, and cultivate the
mulberry, but also gather the leaves, feed the silkworms, and wind the
silk off the cocoons.
During my progress through the silk district, I visited a great number
of cottages, where the worms were feeding. They are commonly kept in
dark rooms, fitted up with shelves placed one above another, from the
ground to the roof of the house. The worms are kept and fed in round
bamboo sieves, placed upon these shelves, so that any one of the sieves
may be taken out and examined at pleasure. The poor natives were
greatly surprised when they saw a foreigner coming amongst them, and
generally supposed that I intended to rob them of their silkworms. In
all the villages which I visited, they uniformly denied that they had
any feeding-rooms--although the leaves and stems of the mulberry about
their doors told a different tale; and they never failed to direct
me to go on to some other part of the country, where they assured me
I should find them. Before we parted, however, they generally gained
confidence, and showed me their collections of worms, as well as their
mode of managing them.
After passing through the Hang-chow silk district, and keeping on in an
easterly direction, we reached, late in the evening, a large town named
SUNG-KIANG-FOO, which is about 30 miles to the west of Shanghae, and
stopped for the night under its ramparts. By daybreak the next morning
we were again on our road, and reached Shanghae on the afternoon of
the same day. Having taken up my abode in the house of my friend, Mr.
Mackenzie, I was surprised in going down stairs next morning to find
one of my Chapoo acquaintances--the officer already mentioned--in close
conversation with the Chinese servants; but I now cared very little
about the matter, knowing perfectly how the business must end. There
was no doubt that the whole affair had been reported to the Taoutae, or
head mandarin of Shanghae, and that he would be obliged, for his own
sake, to take some little notice of it.
A day or two afterwards I had the honour to receive the following
letter from H. B. M. CONSUL, and a translation of a note which had been
sent to him by the Taoutae:--
"H. B. M. Consulate,
"Shanghae, 21st May, 1845.
"Sir--The annexed translation of a note received this morning from the
Taoutae is transmitted to you for an explanation, which I request may
be afforded as soon as possible. I have the honour to be, Sir, yours,
&c.
"G. BALFOUR,
"H. B. M. Consul for Shanghae."
The inclosed ran as follows:--
"I have just heard that a merchant of your honourable nation, Fortune,
and his attendant, Linguist ye Mingchoo, were coming from Tinghae to
Shanghae, and met with a breeze at sea, when the vessel drifted to
Chapoo; that the local officers in Chekiang then protected and sent
them on along the coast, and that they are living at the Ming-le
Warehouse. I would, therefore, trouble the honourable Consul to make
inquiry of what ship he is the merchant, and let me know. This is
written wishing you daily happiness."
"(_True Translation._) (Signed) W. H. MEDHURST, "Interpreter."
When I perused this document I could not but admire the cunning of
the old man. He knew perfectly well that it did not contain one word
of truth: that I was not coming from Tinghae, but from Ningpo; that
I met with no breeze at sea except that which had quietly brought us
to the desired port; and, lastly, that I had not been sent along the
coast, but had had a very pleasant journey through the interior of the
country. I saw at once that the object of the good old Taoutae was to
allow me to deny the truth of his statements; and, upon the principle
that no man is bound to criminate himself, I sent the following answer
to Her Majesty's Consul, which was doubtless perfectly satisfactory to
the Taoutae, and just what he wanted:--
"Sir--I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of a letter from
you of yesterday's date, to which is annexed a translation of a note
you had received from the Taoutae of Shanghae, concerning which you
request an explanation may be afforded as soon as possible. In answer
to this, I beg to inform you that the circumstances noticed in the
Taoutae's letter do not apply to me, and he is, therefore, mistaken,
or has been misinformed. I have the honour to be, Sir, yours," &c.
I need scarcely say that I heard no more of the matter, and from this I
concluded that my answer must have been considered highly satisfactory.
I arrived in Shanghae in good time to transact the business I had in
hand, and not a little pleased at having so successfully accomplished
my "overland" journey.
CHAP. XX.
SAIL FOR FOO-CHOW-FOO ON THE RIVER MIN.--NOVEL MODE OF ENGAGING
A PILOT.--ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER--SCENERY ON ITS BANKS.--BRIDGE
OF FOO-CHOW-FOO.--CHINESE CHAIRMEN.--INSULTS RECEIVED FROM THE
NATIVES--CITY AND SUBURBS.--NATIVE TRADE.--FISHING CORMORANTS.--BANK
NOTES.--CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES.--THE LADIES, AND THEIR FONDNESS FOR
FLOWERS.--POPULATION.--REMARKS ON FOO-CHOW-FOO AS A PLACE OF FOREIGN
TRADE.--GOVERNMENT SPIES.--GARDENS AND NURSERIES.--DECEIT OF THE
MANDARINS.--LEAVE FOO-CHOW-FOO FOR THE TEA HILLS.--MOUNTAIN SCENERY
DESCRIBED.--BLACK-TEA DISTRICTS.--FLORA OF THE HILLS.--AGRICULTURE OF
THE DISTRICT.--NATIVE FRUIT.--CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE.
When I had finished my business in Shanghae, I left that city, and
sailed for _Foo-chow-foo_, on the river Min. Foo-chow-foo is the
capital of the province of Fokien, situated in 25° 30' N. latitude,
near the celebrated Bohea hills, and about half way between Chusan and
Canton. On approaching the entrance to the Min, we anchored under the
lee of some islands named the White Dogs, for the purpose of procuring
a fisherman who could pilot the vessel into the river, as the entrance
is rather difficult for a stranger, having been until very lately but
imperfectly surveyed. Going to the shore for that purpose in the ship's
boat, we found a small fishing village inhabited by men and boys, most
of whom had a piratical and forbidding appearance. It seems that these
people only come here at certain periods of the year to fish; and when
the season is past, they move to more comfortable quarters on the
main-land. No women are ever allowed to inhabit the island.
Having picked out the most weather-beaten man we could find, we asked
him if he knew the passage to the Min, and if he could take a vessel
in which drew three fathoms of water. He immediately answered in the
affirmative; but when we wanted him to come on board, he altered his
mind and hesitated, probably because he had not confidence in us; or,
it might be, he was frightened at the consequences, not knowing how his
conduct would be viewed by the authorities. Mr. Shaw, Captain Freeman,
and myself, now held a conference as to what was to be done. A ship and
a valuable cargo were at stake; the numerous and dangerous sand-banks
near the mouth of the river were visible; and as the man only refused
us his service through fear and ignorance, we concluded that, as
"necessity has no law," there could be no great harm in taking him
against his will. We accordingly pulled alongside his little junk, and
took him and it off to the ship, where he very soon got over all his
fears.
The Chinese are certainly a strange and unaccountable race. Never in my
life did I witness greater apathy than was shown by this boat's crew
when we took them off to the ship. Their companions too--for there
were several boats in the little bay--scarcely even looked at us, or
manifested the least surprise, when they saw our men board the boat,
get her anchor up, and hoist her sail.
The next morning our pilot got the ship under weigh, and took us into
the river Min by a passage not marked in our charts; he evinced the
most perfect acquaintance with the depth of water at every part, and at
last anchored us in safety abreast of a small temple, a few miles from
the mouth of the river. Before we came to the most dangerous point,
where we had to pass between two sand banks, the captain very quietly
informed him, that if he made any mistake and got the ship aground, he
should have his tail cut off--a punishment very nearly the greatest,
which can be inflicted on a Chinaman. When told, he shrugged up his
shoulders, gave a sly look, and said, "Very well; we shall see by and
by." The anchorage being reached in safety, the old man thought it was
now his time for a joke, and, turning triumphantly round with his tail
in one of his hands, exclaimed, "Now, what about the tail? is it to be
cut off, or not? or are you satisfied?"
The passage by which we entered the river is called by the natives
the _Woo-hoo-mun_, or "the five tiger gate;" and here we saw a most
singular rock, or island, which is cleft, as it were, into five
pyramids, and is much revered by the Chinese sailor. In fact, he seems
to look upon it as representing the gods of the ocean, and he fails
not to offer up his thanks and his offerings every time he passes by
it on returning from the sea. The Chinese are often taunted with their
indifference to the religion which they profess; and yet the earnest
and devout manner in which they burn incense, and worship at their holy
places, would put to the blush many of the professors of a holier and
purer faith.
The scenery at the mouth of the Min and towards Foo-chow-foo is
striking and beautiful. The river itself varies much in width and
depth, according to the district through which it flows. Near its
mouth, and at some parts where the country between it and the hills is
flat, it is not less than a mile in width; but at other parts, where
the mountains come almost to the water's edge, the river is narrow,
deep, and rapid. There are two or three such places between the mouth
of the Min and the city of Foo-chow-foo. The whole of this district
is hilly, many of the mountains being at least 3000 feet high; and
at this season of the year, when thunder-storms were almost of daily
occurrence, the effects produced by them amongst these mountains were
grand and sublime.
It is evident that the Chinese greatly dreaded our visiting this place
during the war. I observed that forts had been built on all the most
commanding positions on the sides of the river; but most of them were
now without guns, and had already become dilapidated.
The little town and fortress of _Mingan_, a few miles up the river,
is beautifully situated on a hill sloping down to the water; and the
position is so strong by nature, that, if manned with English troops,
it could defend the pass against the strongest force.
A few miles below the city the river is blocked up, almost all the way
across, with stones and old junks, which are covered at high water. I
believe the _intended_ plan of defence was, to wreck all our vessels on
this barrier, and destroy our men by batteries erected near it!
On the banks of the river are numerous temples, or joss houses, built
in the most romantic and beautiful situations. A fig-tree (_Ficus
nitida_)--a kind of Banyan--is a great favourite with the priests, and
is always found growing beside the temples, where its dark green leaves
and wide-spreading branches afford an agreeable shade from the fierce
rays of the sun. About nine miles below Foo-chow-foo, a pretty little
pagoda stands on an island on the left bank of the river: near this is
the anchorage for large vessels which it would not be prudent to take
up to the town. All the low hills are neatty terraced and cultivated
with sweet potatoes and earth-nuts, and on the more fertile of the
mountains cultivation is carried on at least 2500 feet above the level
of the sea. But many of the mountains are quite barren; bare rocks of
granite are showing themselves over their surface, from amongst which
springs are almost always flowing, and when the water accumulates in
the glens between the hills, it forms numerous beautiful cascades, as
it tumbles down into the Min. Some parts of the region are well wooded,
at least for China; and, viewing the scenery as a whole--the beautiful
river, winding its way between mountains, its islands, its temples, its
villages and fortresses--I think, although not the richest, it is the
most romantic and beautiful part of the country which has come under my
observation.
The city and suburbs of Foo-chow-foo stand in an opening amongst the
hills, about twenty miles from the mouth of the Min. The river runs
through the suburbs, which are connected by the celebrated bridge
called the _Wan-show_, or "myriads of ages," which was always said to
consist of one hundred arches. It is not an arched bridge at all; but
is nevertheless a wonderful structure, being about two thousand feet in
length, and having fifty strong pillars of stone, with large slabs of
granite reaching from the one to the other, and forming the top of the
bridge. During the rains the river rushes through these divisions with
awful rapidity; and as the bridge has evidently stood for many ages, it
is a proof of the substantial manner in which it was originally built.
Leaving the ship at the mouth of the Min, Mr. Shaw, Captain Freeman,
and myself started in a native boat to go up to the city. When we
were getting into the boat, our old friend the pilot, who by this
time had become quite at home amongst us, came and begged us to give
him a passage as far up as the first town we were to pass on our way.
We inquired why he did not go back again to his fishing at the White
Dog island. His reply was, "I should get robbed by pirates of all the
money you have given me for pilotage. I must first make sure of it by
depositing it in the hands of a friend of mine in the town: after that
is done, I shall return to the island."
We were nearly two days in getting up to the city, owing to the
rapidity of the stream, caused by the late heavy rains. We landed
near the bridge already noticed, and immediately inquired for the
house of the English Consul, who, we were informed, lived in a
temple situated within the city, and about three miles from the
landing-place. As nearly the whole of the streets in the suburbs
were under water at the time, in some parts to the depth of four
feet, it was impossible to walk this distance; nor was it necessary
to make the attempt, for chairmen surrounded us in great numbers,
and were as determined on putting us into their chairs as a London
conductor is to have passengers for his omnibus. We willingly yielded
to their solicitations, and got into chairs and set off for the
consular residence. The people here had seen but few foreigners, and
were particularly impertinent and annoying. Hundreds followed us and
crowded round the chairs; "Quang-yanga, quang-yanga,"--their term for
foreigners--was rung in our ears from all sides, and frequently other
appellations of a much worse signification. Our Chinese servants, who
walked by our side, were attacked and reviled for having any connection
with us. In one of the streets the water was so deep that I was obliged
to stand up on the seat of the chair, and even then it reached my feet.
Here the crowd became very abusive, and commenced throwing water over
us. At first our servants bore this treatment pretty well; but their
patience was at last exhausted, and they turned upon the assailants.
The scene was now both amusing and disagreeable. Luckily I happened
to be a little in advance, and was therefore pretty well out of the
mêlé; but Captain Freeman came in for his full share of it, and was
completely soaked through. When we got within the city walls we were
not molested further, owing, I suppose, to the greater strength of the
police.
The city is walled and fortified upon the same plan as Ningpo and
Shanghae, and is at least eight or nine miles in circumference, having
as usual east, west, north, and south gates. At various points on the
walls, as well as above the gates, guard-houses are erected, each
containing guns; some of which, according to the writings on them,
were cast about the commencement of the last war. A small area between
the south and north gates is not built upon; but the greater part of
the space within the walls is densely covered with houses. There are
two rather handsome pagodas, and some small hills on which temples are
built, and where a good view of the town and suburbs may be obtained.
On one of these hills the British Consul has his residence.
The streets in all Chinese cities have much the same appearance: some
are a little wider than others, and have better and more attractive
shops; but by far the greater part of them are narrow and dirty,
and Foo-chow-foo certainly forms no exception to the general rule.
A large trade appears to be carried on here in copper, judging from
the number of shops tilled with manufactured articles of that metal,
particularly of gongs, of which I observed an immense number of all
sizes. This copper is brought here principally in junks from Loo-choo.
They also bring a considerable quantity of gold. Both metals are said
to be originally the exports of Japan. I went on board two of these
junks at the mouth of the Min, which were bound to Loo-choo, and were
loaded with tea-oil, which they told me they had taken in exchange
for their copper. A great quantity of iron is manufactured here, and
wire-drawing is carried on extensively. The great export trade of the
port, however, is in wood, which is floated down the Min in large
quantities, and covers many acres in the suburbs near the river side.
Hundreds of junks from Amoy, Ningpo, Chapoo, and some even from as far
north as the province of Shan-tung and the bay of Pee-che-lee, are
constantly employed in this trade. The wood is chiefly a sort of common
pine, employed in the building of houses, and it is generally cut
into lengths suited to that purpose before it is shipped. Good planks
of fine hard wood can also be had in any quantity at this place. The
wood junks are loaded with great skill, a great part of their cargo
being lashed to their sides, thus making them about three times their
ordinary width.
Banking is carried on to a greater extent in Foo-chow-foo than in the
other towns which I have visited. Paper notes are a common medium of
exchange, in which the people have the greatest confidence, prefering
them to dollars, or "cash." Some of the notes are as low as four
hundred cash--about eighteen pence English money; others are for very
large sums.
The people here are generally much cleaner in their habits, and
appear to be a more active race, than those in the northern towns. In
fact, they approach more nearly to the natives of Canton than to any
other, in these respects. I was much surprised to find them consuming
beef, and even milk, in considerable quantities; articles which are
never used by the inhabitants of the other districts where I have
been: indeed, everywhere else the Chinese were wont to express their
astonishment when they saw the English using such articles of food.
The ladies of Foo-chow-foo are particularly fond of flowers--artificial
as well as natural--for the decoration of their hair. The rustic
cottage beauty employs the more large and gaudy, such as the red
Hibiscus; while the refined damsels prefer the jasmine, tuberose, and
others of that description: artificial flowers, however, are more in
use than natural ones.
The population of Foo-chow-foo has been estimated at about half a
million; and I have no doubt that if the suburbs and numerous villages
in the vicinity be taken into account, the number is not over-stated.
Up to the time when I left China, little or nothing had been done here
in the way of trade, and I cannot help thinking that its advantages
in this respect have been greatly over-rated. It is never likely to
be a place of as great importance to England as the more northerly
port of Shanghae; and for this very simple reason--the physical nature
of the country is against it. The whole of the surrounding region is
mountainous; the rivers are rapid and in some places shallow, and are
often liable to rain-floods. There are consequently many impediments
in the way of a free transmission of goods into the interior of the
country. Foo-chow-foo was supposed to possess great advantages, owing
to its being near the Bohea or black tea district; and it was thought
at one time that it might form the great emporium for the export of
this article to Europe and America. This opinion, however, has hitherto
proved fallacious, and I believe it is now ascertained that the
black teas can be brought more readily to Shanghae or Ningpo than to
Foo-chow-foo; especially since the Bohea teas have sunk in estimation,
and other districts to the northward, having taken the place of the
Bohea hills, are now furnishing the black teas of commerce.
In addition to all these disadvantages the natives seem a lawless
and turbulent race, having all the characteristics of those in the
Canton province, find, like them, being inveterate in their hatred of
foreigners, and full of conceit as to their own importance and power.
Several very serious disturbances have taken place at the port since it
was opened to the British.
After paying our visit to the English Consul, we returned to the
suburbs to look out for a house where we could put up during our stay.
When we got back to the river, we found all our luggage and servants
already safely lodged in the house of a person who had been ordered
by the mandarins to lodge us and look after us. We were glad to get
in-doors from the insulting crowd, and were consequently not very
particular as to quarters. We soon found, however, that we were very
strictly watched, and that we could not move anywhere without the fact
being communicated to the mandarins.
My first object was to find out all the gardens and nurseries in the
district. The late G. Tradescant Lay, Esq., the first consul here,
who took a great interest in botanical pursuits, had unfortunately
left this place for Amoy. All was, therefore, up-hill work, as it used
to be in the more northern towns when I first visited them. After a
great deal of exertion and annoyance, I found out a number of gardens
and nurseries, both in the town and in the surrounding country; and
obtained a few new plants.
The valley of the Min was still flooded in many parts, and travelling
over it was a very serious matter. One morning I started for a place
at a considerable distance in the country, accompanied by a guide and
a Coolie. I took the Coolie that he might carry me over those low
flats which were known to be still flooded. We got on pretty well for
some time; but the tide beginning to rise, I soon found that I must
either retrace my steps or make up my mind to disregard the water, as
the whole of the paths in our route were flooded. Unwilling to return,
I went on, often wading up to my middle; the same thing occurred
during several successive days, and this under a burning sun, with a
temperature of at least 95° Fahr. in the shade. Few constitutions could
stand this with impunity; and I suffered severely for it afterwards.
I was now anxious to proceed further into the country, particularly
into the hilly black tea district; but the mandarins, who were informed
of all my movements by their spies, did every thing in their power to
dissuade me from making the attempt. They told the Consul, and induced
him to believe them, that their only reason for wishing to prevent my
going into the interior was, that the natives were in a state which
made it unsafe for a foreigner to trust himself amongst them: that by
and by they would communicate with the magistrates in the district to
which I wanted to go, and that after this was done I might proceed with
safety. But I had had too much to do with the Chinese authorities in
various parts of the country to place any reliance in what they said,
more particularly when I knew that they had some end to gain. In the
present instance, their object was to procrastinate matters from day to
day until I should be obliged to leave the district. When the Chinese
have an end to gain, the only question with them is, whether they are
most likely to succeed by telling the truth or telling lies; either
method is resorted to as may best suit their purpose, with a slight
preference, perhaps, for the latter.
When they found that, notwithstanding all their descriptions of the
fierce and hostile disposition of the people, I was still determined to
go, they declared that no tea was grown in this district; being fully
persuaded that an Englishman could have no other object in exploring
the country than to see the cultivation of his favourite beverage.
Indeed, every Chinaman firmly believes we could not continue to exist
as a nation were it not for the productions of the celestial empire. It
has been stated that his celestial majesty the Emperor himself, during
the war, recommended his subjects to use every means in their power
to prevent the English from getting tea and rhubarb--the one being
what they lived upon, and the other their medicine, without which, his
majesty said, they could not continue to exist for any length of time;
and consequently would be more easily conquered in this way than by the
sword.
I told the mandarins that I did not care whether there were tea farms
on these hills or not; but that, to cut the matter short, I was
determined to go and see.
Accordingly, on the following morning I started early, taking the road
for the tea hills. The flat country through which I passed, between
the north side of the city and the mountains, is chiefly cultivated
with rice, sugar-cane, ginger, and tobacco. On the sides of the little
hills, and also for a considerable distance up the loftier ranges,
large quantities of sweet potatoes and earth-nuts are grown during the
summer season; but as we ascend, the mountains become more rugged,
cultivation ceases, and plants indigenous to the country alone show
themselves. On my journey over these mountains I came to the conclusion
that their native flora was of an intermediate character between those
of the southern and northern provinces--the tropical species of the
south being found in the low lands, and the species of more northern
latitudes inhabiting the mountains 2000 or 3000 feet above the level of
the sea. In the low valleys the _Ficus nitida_ attains a large size,
and is a great favourite with the inhabitants. It is always seen near
villages and temples.
After toiling up one of the celebrated mountain passes, which is paved
all the way, and has a house of refreshment about half way up, I
reached the summit of the mountain--the highest land in this part of
China. A glorious prospect was spread before me: the valley of the Min
stretching far across to the other hills; the city of Foo-chow-foo,
with its pagodas, temples, and watchtowers standing in the centre of
the plain; and the broad river winding smoothly along in its course to
the sea; mountain towering above mountain, and the whole striking the
mind with wonder and admiration.
Among these mountains, and at a height of 2000 and 3000 feet above
the level of the sea, I found the black tea district, which I was
anxious to see, and the existence of which had been denied by my
affectionate friends the mandarins. Having been in several green tea
countries further north, I was desirous to ascertain clearly whether
the plant was the same species in both places, or whether, as generally
believed, they were different. I have stated in a former chapter that
the tea-plant of the northern green tea districts is the true _Thea
viridis_ of botanists. I was now fortunate enough not only to find an
extensive tea district, but also to be present when the natives were
picking and preparing the leaves; and I not only procured specimens for
my herbarium, but also a living plant, which I afterwards took to the
green tea hills of the north, and found, on minute comparison, that it
was identical with the _Thea viridis_. In other words, the black and
green teas which generally come to England from the northern provinces
of China are made from the same species, and the difference of colour,
flavour, &c. is solely the result of the different modes of preparation.
In this region I met with no plants which I had not seen before
in other parts of the country. I observed the lance-leaved pine
(_Cunninghamia lanceolata_) in great abundance; indeed, this species
and the more common _Pinus sinensis_ are almost the only trees of any
size which grow in this mountainous district. The natives amongst
these hills were much surprised at the sight of a foreigner, and came
crowding from all quarters to see me; they were, however, much more
civil and respectful than their countrymen in the lowlands and at
Foo-chow-foo.
On my return from this excursion, I devoted most of my time to the
examination of nurseries in the vicinity of the city. They contained
some interesting plants. The celebrated _Fingered-Citron_, so common
in the shops throughout China, seems to be cultivated in great
perfection in this part of the country; in fact, it appears to be its
natural locality. The district round Foo-chow-foo seems to be the
great Camellia garden of China, and in no other part of the country
did I ever see these plants in such perfect health, or so beautifully
cultivated. The _Ixoras_ and _Hydrangeas_ are also particularly well
grown and handsome, the latter invariably producing flowers of the
deepest blue, much deeper than I have ever seen them in England. They
are grown in a fine rich loam, which contains some chemical ingredient,
and which is the cause of their deep colour.
Here, as well as further north, the farmer grows crops of wheat and
green vegetables during the winter months. A great part of the low
country, at least all that is capable of being flooded, is cultivated
with rice during the summer and autumn. The first crop is ripe in July,
and the second is planted between the rows of the former, in the same
manner as in the northern provinces, and ripens in the autumn. Large
quantities of tobacco are grown in the province. The farmers cultivate
this plant with very great care, and take every means to have the
leaves large and fine. For this purpose all the flowers are regularly
picked off, and also all the small and useless leaves as soon as they
are formed. Sugar and ginger are likewise grown to a greater extent in
this part of China than in any other with which I am acquainted; and
crops of sweet potatoes and earth-nuts abound on the sides of the hills.
Amongst fruits, the plums are good, but inferior to what we have in
England; the peaches are curiously formed, but worthless. What may be
more properly called Chinese fruits, such as leechees, longans, and
wangpees, are, however, excellent, the climate suiting them admirably.
When I was here (in July), the leechee trees were covered with their
fine red fruit, and were very beautiful, the fruit contrasted so
well with the deep clear green foliage. Large quantities of oranges,
citrons, and pumeloes are also found in the district of the Min; but
none of them were ripe at this season. I saw, for the first time,
the tree commonly called the Chinese olive (_Canarium_), from the
resemblance its fruit bears to the olive of Europe; also the Chinese
date (_Zizyphus_), which produces a fruit not unlike the date imported
into England.
In the fields in the vicinity of Foo-chow-foo, large quantities of the
sweet-scented _Jasminum Sambac_ are cultivated. It is used to decorate
the hair of the ladies, and to garnish the tables of the wealthy. I
believe that all the gardens, both in the north and south, are supplied
with this favourite flower from the province of Fokien. Various other
shrubs, such as _Murraya exotica, Aglaia odorata,_ and _Chloranthus
inconspicuus_, are grown for their blossoms, which are used for mixing
with the tea.
The temperature of Foo-chow-foo appears to be intermediate between that
of Hong-kong in the south, and Shanghae in the north. In June, and in
the beginning of July, the thermometer ranged from 85° to 95° Fahr.,
and about the middle of the latter month it rose to 100°, which I
believe it seldom exceeds. The following table was kept by the late Mr.
G. Tradescant Lay:--
+-------------------+------+------+
| | | |
| 1844. | Max. | Min. |
| | | |
+-------------------+------+------+
| | ° | ° |
| August . . . . . | 96 | 82 |
| September . . . | 90 | 82 |
| October . . . . | 86 | 71 |
| November . . . . | 78 | 65 |
| December . . . . | 75 | 44 |
| | | |
| 1845. | | |
| | | |
| January . . . . | 72 | 44 |
| | | |
+-------------------+------+------+
The weather is generally unsettled and wet about the time the summer
monsoon changes, that is, from April to June, and the district is
visited by heavy thunder-storms in July and part of August. Towards the
end of August, in September, and in the beginning of October, it is
generally very dry. The monsoon now changes again to the north-east,
and the weather becomes variable and continues so during the winter
months.
During my stay here I received a great deal of kindness from Mr.
Walker, of H. M. Consulate. The natives continued to the last
troublesome and annoying; and I was very glad when my labours in the
district were ended.
[Illustration: Pagoda Island, on the River Min.]
CHAP. XXI.
ENGAGE A PASSAGE IN A JUNK.--LEAVE THE DISTRICT OF THE MIN.--AN
ATTACK OF FEVER.--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES ON BOARD THE JUNK.--ATTACKED
BY PIRATES.--SCENE ON BOARD.--COWARDICE OF THE CHINESE.--PIRATES
BEAT OFF.--GRATITUDE OF THE CREW.--A SAFE ANCHORAGE!--ANOTHER FLEET
OF PIRATES.--ATTACK AND RESULTS.--ARRIVE AT CHUSAN.--INGRATITUDE OF
THE CREW.--MODE OF MAKING THEM KEEP THEIR WORD.--KINDNESS OF FOREIGN
RESIDENTS AT SHANGHAE.--LARGE PEACHES.--COLLECTIONS PACKED.--LEAVE THE
NORTH OF CHINA.--SAIL FOR ENGLAND.--ARRIVAL IN THE THAMES.--CONCLUSION.
At the time when I visited _Foo-chow-foo_, although it was open to the
English as a place of trade and had a British Consul, it was little
known in a mercantile point of view. The entrance to the river Min was
described as extremely difficult and dangerous, and, consequently, few
foreign vessels ventured to touch at this port. When, therefore, my
botanical researches were completed, and I was ready to return north
to Shanghae, I was obliged to apply for a passage in a Chinese junk, a
whole fleet of which were to sail in a few days for Ningpo and Chapoo.
Knowing the dislike and jealousy which most of the natives manifest
towards foreigners, I had some doubt whether I should be able to induce
them to take me as a passenger, and, in that event, I had determined
to go down to the mouth of the river, and, "_sans cérémonie,_" get
on board, whether they consented or not. I was, therefore, agreeably
surprised, when, on sending my servant to make inquiries as to the
time when they were likely to sail, he returned, bringing with him the
captain and some of the sailors, who were all not only willing, but
most anxious, that I should go with them.
The principal part of the cargo carried by the Ningpo and Chapoo junks
is wood. This is stowed on deck, and also lashed firmly to the gunwales
and sides with large ropes of bamboo which are of great strength.
Several hundreds of these vessels may be seen loading at the port of
Foo-chow-foo, particularly in the summer season, when the monsoon is
fair for their voyage home. The mandarins are extremely jealous of so
large a fleet, and will not allow them to carry guns, even for their
own defence; evidently fearing that some day or other these might be
turned against the government. The consequence of this regulation is,
that these poor sailors and all they possess on board often fall an
easy prey to the pirates who abound all along this coast.
When the cargo was completed, the captain of the junk came to inform me
that he was ready to start, and requested me to come on board. Whilst
I was packing up my luggage, he began to examine my fire-arms very
minutely, and said to me, "I hope your gun is a good one, and that you
have plenty of powder and shot?" "What is your reason for putting this
question?" said I: "I am sure we shall have nothing to shoot in our
voyage up the coast." "Oh yes, you will," answered he; "we are very
likely to be attacked by the _Jan-dous_, who swarm outside amongst
the islands." "Who are the _Jan-dous?_" said I, to my servant, never
having heard the name before. "Oh! they are pirates," said he, "and we
are all very much frightened at them." "Nonsense!" I exclaimed: "no
pirates will attack us; and if they do, they will repent it." At this
time I had no idea that the coast was so infested with these lawless
characters, and I put it all down to the cowardice of my informants.
As soon as I got on board, we hove up the anchor and dropped down to
the mouth of the Min. We here found a large fleet of junks--about
one hundred and seventy sail--all, like ourselves, loaded with wood,
and ready to start for the northern parts of Ningpo and Chapoo. That
evening a meeting of the captains was held on board of our vessel, and
a deputation appointed to wait upon the mandarins to request them to
send a convoy of war junks to protect the fleet from the pirates. These
negotiations were carried on for several days; but the demands of the
mandarins were so exorbitant, that the junk people would not comply
with them, and it was at last determined to sail without the convoy.
Just as they came to this decision, the wind changed and blew a gale
from the north for three days, when it veered round to the south, and
blew nearly as strong from that quarter, and for the same space of
time. These vessels never go to sea in stormy weather, even if the wind
is fair; and, what with gales of wind and negotiations with mandarins,
I was obliged to content myself with a junk life for a fortnight at the
mouth of the river.
As long as I enjoyed health I got on well enough; but the exposure
during the past summer, particularly at Foo-chow-foo, had gradually
undermined my constitution; and the fever, which was probably kept off
for a certain time by bodily exertion, now seized me, and compelled
me to take to my cot, where I lay for a number of days insensible at
intervals. At times, when consciousness returned, I certainly thought
that my travels were drawing to a close, and that my grave would be a
lonely one on the banks of the Min. It seemed hard for me to die in a
land of strangers, without a friend or countryman to close my eyes, or
follow me to my last resting-place; and home, friends, and country, how
doubly dear did they seem to me then!
The wind having been fair for several days, and the weather appearing
settled, the captain of the junk came down to the place where I lay,
and told me they intended to sail on the following morning. He again
inquired if I had my gun and pistols in proper order, and plenty of
powder and ball. Still imagining that they were exaggerating the
dangers of the voyage, I laughed, and said, "Do not be afraid; I have
every thing in order, and I will undertake to beat off any pirates
who may attack us." Nevertheless, I clearly saw that both captain and
sailors were really uneasy about the voyage, and would have been very
glad of another gale to afford a pretext for deferring it a little
longer. They had, however, no further excuse for delay, and it was
settled that the whole fleet should sail early the next day.
The Chinese sailor never goes to sea without first presenting an
offering to the gods to propitiate them, in order that the voyage may
be a speedy and successful one. Accordingly, on this day the cabin
of our junk was set in order, and the tables covered with dishes of
pork, mutton, fruits, and vegetables. Candles and incense were burned
upon the tables for a short time, and the whole business had something
solemn and imposing about it. The cook, who seemed to be the high
priest, conducted all the ceremonies. On other days, as well as this,
it was part of his duty to light the candles in the little temple where
the gods were kept, as well as to burn incense and prostrate himself
before them.
Early on the following morning, the whole fleet was in motion, starting
altogether for the sake of mutual protection. The wind and tide were
both fair, and we proceeded along the coast with great rapidity, and
were soon out of sight of the Min and its beautiful and romantic
scenery. The plan of mutual protection soon seemed to be abandoned, and
the vessels separated into threes and fours, each getting on as well
and as fast as it could. About four o'clock in the afternoon, and when
we were some, fifty or sixty miles from the Min, the captain and pilot
came hurriedly down to my cabin and informed me that they saw a number
of _Jan-dous_, right ahead, lying in wait for us. I ridiculed the idea,
and told them that they imagined every junk they saw to be a pirate;
but they still maintained that they were so, and I therefore considered
it prudent to be prepared for the worst. I got out of bed, ill and
feverish as I was, and carefully examined my fire-arms, clearing the
nipples of my gun and pistols and putting on fresh caps. I also rammed
down a ball upon the top of each charge of shot in my gun, put a pistol
in each side-pocket, and patiently waited for the result. By the aid of
a small pocket-telescope, I could see as the nearest junk approached
that her deck was crowded with men; I then had no longer any doubts
regarding her intentions. The pilot, an intelligent old man, now came
up to me, and said that he thought resistance was of no use; I might
manage to beat off one junk, or even two, but that I had no chance
with five of them. Being at that time in no mood to take advice or be
dictated to by any one, I ordered him off to look after his own duty.
I knew perfectly well, that if we were taken by the pirates I had not
the slightest chance of escape; for the first thing they would do would
be to knock me on the head and throw me overboard, as they would deem
it dangerous to themselves were I to get away. At the same time I must
confess I had little hopes of being able to beat off such a number, and
devoutly wished myself anywhere rather than where I was.
The scene around me was a strange one. The captain, pilot, and one or
two native passengers were taking up the boards of the cabin-floor,
and putting their money and other valuables out of sight amongst the
ballast. The common sailors, too, had their copper cash, or "_tsien_"
to hide; and the whole place was in a state of bustle and confusion.
When all their more valuable property was hidden, they began to make
some preparations for defence. Baskets of small stones were brought
up from the hold, and emptied out on the most convenient parts of
the deck, and were intended to be used instead of fire-arms when the
pirates came to close quarters. This is a common mode of defence in
various parts of China, and is effectual enough when the enemy has only
similar weapons to bring against them; but on the coast of Fokien,
where we were now, all the pirate junks carried guns, and consequently
a whole deck-load of stones could be of very little use against them.
During the general bustle I missed my own servant for a short time.
When he returned to me, he had made such a change in his appearance
that I did not recognise him. He was literally clothed in rags, which
he had borrowed from the sailors, all of whom had also put on their
very worst clothes. When I asked him the reason of this change in
his outward man, he told me that the pirates only made those persons
prisoners who had money, and were likely to pay handsomely for their
ransom; and that they would not think it worth their while to lay hold
of a man in rags.
I was surrounded by several of the crew, who might well be called
"Job's comforters," some suggesting one thing, and some another; and
many proposed that we should bring the junk round and run back to the
Min. The nearest pirate was now within 200 or 300 yards of us, and,
putting her helm down, gave us a broadside from her guns. All was now
dismay and consternation on board our junk, and every man ran below
except two who were at the helm. I expected every moment that these
also would leave their post; and then we should have been an easy prey
to the pirates. "My gun is nearer you than those of the _Jan-dous_,"
said I to the two men; "and if you move from the helm, depend upon it
I will shoot you." The poor fellows looked very uncomfortable, but I
suppose thought they had better stand the fire of the pirates than
mine, and kept at their post. Large boards, heaps of old clothes, mats,
and things of that sort which were at hand, were thrown up to protect
us from the shot; and as we had every stitch of sail set, and a fair
wind, we were going through the water at the rate of seven or eight
miles an hour.
The shot from the pirates fell considerably short of us, and I was
therefore enabled to form an opinion of the range and power of their
guns, which was of some use to me. Assistance from our cowardly crew
was quite out of the question, for there was not a man amongst them
brave enough to use the stones which had been brought on deck; and
which, perhaps, might have been of some little use when the pirates
came nearer. The fair wind and all the press of sail which we had
crowded on the junk proved of no use; for our pursuers, who had much
faster-sailing vessels, were gaining rapidly upon us. Again the
nearest pirate fired upon us. The shot this time fell just under
our stem. I still remained quiet, as I had determined not to fire a
single shot until I was quite certain my gun would take effect. The
third broadside, which followed this, came whizzing over our heads and
through the sails, without, however, wounding either the men at the
helm or myself.
The pirates now seemed quite sure of their prize, and came down upon us
hooting and yelling like demons, at the same time loading their guns,
and evidently determined not to spare their shot. This was a moment of
intense interest. The plan which I had formed from the first was now
about to be put to the proof; and if the pirates were not the cowards
which I believed them to be, nothing could save us from falling into
their hands. Their fearful yells seem to be ringing in my ears even
now, after this lapse of time, and when I am on the other side of the
globe.
The nearest junk was now within thirty yards of ours; their guns were
now loaded, and I knew that the next discharge would completely rake
our decks. "Now," said I to our helmsmen, "keep your eyes fixed on
me, and the moment you see me fall flat on the deck you must do the
same, or you will be shot." I knew that the pirate, who was now on our
stern, could not bring his guns to bear upon us without putting his
helm down and bringing his gangway at right angles with our stern, as
his guns were fired from the gangway. I therefore kept a sharp eye upon
his helmsman, and the moment I saw him putting the helm down I ordered
our steersmen to fall flat on their faces behind some wood, and at the
same moment did so myself. We had scarcely done so, when bang! bang!
went their guns, and the shot came whizzing close over us, splintering
the wood about us in all directions. Fortunately none of us were
struck. "Now, mandarin, now! they are quite close enough," cried out my
companions, who did not wish to have another broadside like the last.
I, being of the same opinion, raised myself above the high stern of our
junk; and while the pirates were not more than twenty yards from us,
hooting and yelling, I raked their decks fore and aft, with shot and
ball from my double-barrelled gun.
Had a thunder-bolt fallen amongst them, they could not have been more
surprised. Doubtless, many were wounded, and probably some killed. At
all events, the whole of the crew, not fewer than forty or fifty men,
who, a moment before, crowded the deck, disappeared in a marvellous
manner; sheltering themselves behind the bulwarks, or lying flat on
their faces. They were so completely taken by surprise, that their junk
was left without a helmsman; her sails flapped in the wind; and, as we
were still carrying all sail and keeping on our right course, they were
soon left a considerable way astern.
Another was now bearing down upon us as boldly as his companion
had done, and commenced firing in the same manner. Having been so
successful with the first, I determined to follow the same plan with
this one, and to pay no attention to his firing until he should come
to close quarters. The plot now began to thicken; for the first junk
had gathered way again, and was following in our wake, although keeping
at a respectful distance; and three others, although still further
distant, were making for the scene of action as fast as they could. In
the mean time, the second was almost alongside, and continued giving
us a broadside now and then with their guns. Watching their helm as
before, we sheltered ourselves as well as we could; at the same time,
my poor fellows who were steering kept begging and praying that I would
fire into our pursuers as soon as possible, or we should be all killed.
As soon as they came within twenty or thirty yards of us, I gave them
the contents of both barrels, raking their decks as before. This time
the helmsman fell, and doubtless several others were wounded. In a
minute or two I could see nothing but boards and shields, which were
held up by the pirates to protect themselves from my firing; their junk
went up into the wind for want of a helmsman, and was soon left some
distance behind us.
While I was watching this vessel, our men called out to me that there
was another close on our lee-bow, which I had not observed on account
of our main-sail. Luckily, however, it proved to be a Ningpo wood junk
like ourselves, which the pirates had taken a short time before, but
which, although manned by these rascals, could do us no harm, having no
guns. The poor Ningpo crew, whom I could plainly see on board, seemed
to be very much down-hearted and frightened. I was afterwards informed
that, when a junk is captured, all the principal people, such as the
captain, pilot, and passengers, are taken out of her, and a number of
the pirates go on board and take her into some of their dens amongst
the islands, and keep her there until a heavy ransom is paid, both for
the junk and the people. Sometimes, when a ransom cannot be obtained,
the masts and spars and every thing else which is of any value are
taken out of her, and she is set on fire.
Two other piratical junks which had been following in our wake for some
time, when they saw what had happened, would not venture any nearer;
and at last, much to my satisfaction, the whole set of them bore away.
Now was the time for my heroical companions to come from their
hiding-place, which they did with great alacrity, hooting and yelling
as the pirates had done before, and, in derision, calling on them to
come back and renew the fight. The stones, too, were now boldly seized
and thrown after the retreating junks, reaching to almost a tenth part
of the distance; and a stranger who had not seen these gentry before
would have supposed them the bravest men in existence. Fortunately the
pirates did not think proper to accept the challenge.
With the captain, pilot, crew, and passengers, I was now one of the
greatest and best of men in existence. They actually came and knelt
before me, as to some superior being, and expressed their deep and
lasting gratitude, which, however, did not last long. The sun was now
setting, in all his glory, behind the hills of Fokien, and many of the
more devout amongst the passengers and crew did not fail to bow low
in adoration and thankfulness to this supposed deity for their escape
out of the hands of the pirates. Shortly after nightfall we arrived at
one of the safe anchorages, where the mandarins are too strong for the
lawless bands which infest the other parts of the coast.
On the following morning we again got under weigh, and proceeded the
whole day without molestation. In the evening we arrived at another
safe anchorage, or place of rendezvous; but the security at this place
consisted in the number and strength of the junks actually at anchor
there, and not in the fear which the pirates entertained for the
government. When we reached this place the night was fine, and, as it
was nearly full moon, it was almost as light as clay. The tide too was
just turning in our favour; and as I was most anxious to proceed on our
voyage, I did every thing in my power to induce them to go on. It was
of no use, however; for as soon as we reached the anchorage, and found
a large fleet of junks, the anchor was dropped, and they determined
to stay there all night. I felt very much annoyed, but saw it was no
use to grumble, and went quietly to bed. In less than an hour from
this time, and before I had fallen asleep, hearing a stir upon deck,
I inquired what was the cause, and found that we were getting under
weigh. This was agreeable news; but as I could not imagine what had
caused them to change their minds so soon, I went upon deck to see what
was going on. Our people, it appeared, had gone to sleep the moment our
anchor was down; shortly after this, the other junks, which, it turned
out, were only waiting for the rise of the tide to enter some river in
the vicinity, had all weighed anchor and gone off. All on board were
now in great consternation, lest the pirates should come down upon us
whilst at anchor, and no time was lost in getting it up and proceeding
on our voyage, much, of course, to my satisfaction.
On the following day, late in the afternoon, when I was laid up in my
bed with fever, the captain came hurriedly down, and informed me that
another fleet of pirates were in sight, and evidently lying in wait
for us. I was obliged to get up, ill as I was; and when I got on deck
I could see, by the aid of my telescope, six junks coming out from
amongst the islands under the main land, and evidently bearing down
towards us. This time I was not so sceptical as the last. After having
once seen these rascally vessels, there was no mistaking others of the
same class, as they came sneaking out of the bays. Their clipper-built
hulls, the cut of their sails, their raking masts, and the crowd of
fellows who lined their decks, all told the business they were after.
It was therefore evident that we must prepare for another encounter.
It now struck me that perhaps I might be able to deceive the pirates
with regard to our strength, as I was afraid that I might not again
be so successful with them, particularly if they found out that there
was only one foreigner on board: knowing that they have a great dread
of foreigners and their guns, my object was to make them believe that
there were a number of us, and that we were well armed. For this
purpose I got up all the spare clothes I had, and put them on the least
Chinese-looking Chinamen on board. At the same time I desired them to
collect all the short levers which they use for hoisting their sails,
and which at a distance would look not unlike fire-arms, particularly
if the deception was assisted by the report of a double-barreled gun.
Every thing looked promising, and I thought my recruits were likely to
be of some service to me; but when the nearest pirate, who had been
coming fast down upon us, gave us a broadside, it was too much for my
Chinamen, who were instantly panic-struck, threw down their arms, and
ran below; and, added to this, I had again to threaten the men at the
helm, who seemed half inclined to follow the example of the others: so
I now prepared for the worst.
The pirates came on, firing at intervals as the others had done, and
I followed my former plan of watching their movements until they were
near enough for my gun to tell upon them with fearful precision. Their
shot was now flying about our ears and riddling our sails, and they
came on in their usual noisy manner, perfectly unconscious of what I
had in store for their reception. For the last time the helm of the
nearest junk was put down, when we instantly fell flat on our faces and
allowed the shot to pass over us. As soon as their last gun was fired,
and before they had time to load again, I poured the contents of my
gun amongst them fore and aft, raking the deck as I had done before.
This took them completely by surprise; and as we were still under a
heavy press of sail, we were soon a considerable way ahead of them.
Two others of the fleet came up and fired some shots at us; but the
whole of them evidently imagined that a number of foreigners were on
board of our junk, a belief which doubtless had a great deal to do with
the success which attended my efforts. At length, darkness coming on,
they gave up the pursuit and bore away from us, and in two hours more
we arrived at a safe anchorage. The fever, which I had scarcely felt
during all this excitement, now returned with greater violence, and I
was heartily glad to go below and turn into my bed.
During the night I heard a great noise on board, but was too feverish
and weak to make any inquiries as to the cause. In the morning my
servant informed me that it was occasioned by the arrival of three
junks during the night, which had been chased to the entrance of the
harbour by the pirates; there had, he said, originally been four in
company, but one of them had been taken.
The sailors on board these junks had not been so fortunate as we had
been, for several of them were severely wounded, and I was now asked to
extract the balls. The wounds were large and ragged, owing to the iron
shot which the Chinese use in their guns. I advised the wounded men to
hurry on to Chusan, where they would get good medical advice.
Up to nine o'clock in the morning, although the wind and tide were
both favourable, there were no signs of the junks getting under weigh;
I therefore sent for the captain, and inquired if it was not his
intention to proceed. He told me that he had had a meeting with the
captains of the other vessels, and that they had determined to get a
convoy of war junks from the mandarin before they went on. Being now
within eighty or ninety miles of Chusan, I could easily hire a small
boat for that distance, and therefore said to the captain, "Very well,
then I shall leave you here, as I am very unwell, and anxious to get
to Chusan as soon as possible." "Go," said I, turning to my servant,
"and engage a boat to take me on to Chusan, and bring it here as soon
as you can." When he was about to leave the vessel, several of the crew
gathered round him and attempted to persuade him not to go. Anxious
to serve his countrymen, although at my expense, he loitered about
for a little while, and then came back and informed me that it was no
use going on shore, as I should not be able to engage a boat to take
me so far. As I had been informed, by one of the shore people who had
come on board, that plenty of boats were to be had on hire, I felt
annoyed at his deceit, and threatened to punish him if he did not start
immediately and bring a boat off. When he saw that I was determined,
he turned sulkily away, jumped into a sand-pan, and procured a boat
without the slightest difficulty. The captain and crew now crowded
round me, begging me not to leave them, and offering to get up their
anchor and proceed at once. Although my destination was Chusan, I had
taken my passage for Ningpo, as all the wood junks were bound either
for that port or Chapoo. On their now begging me to stay, I told them
that unless they would sail into Chusan harbour and leave me there as
they passed, I would proceed in the small boat, as I was anxious to
get there as soon as possible, in order to obtain medicine and advice.
"Oh," said they, "if you will only go with us, we will run into Chusan
harbour and leave you there before we cross over to Ningpo." Upon this
assurance I agreed to accompany them.
The captains of the other junks now came to me and asked me if I would
undertake to protect them all from the attacks of the pirates; as, if
so, they would get under weigh and go with us also. Upon my telling
them that I could not undertake to do this, they told me that they
must wait until some arrangement could be made with the mandarins,
as they were afraid to proceed alone. We therefore left them at
anchor, and proceeded on our voyage. During the day we frequently saw
suspicious-looking craft, which were pronounced by the crew to be
_Jan-dous_; but none of them were near enough to attack us. Late in the
afternoon, as we approached Keto-point--a promontory of the main-land
near Chusan--we met a large fleet of merchant junks sailing together
for mutual protection on their way down. Some of them came alongside
us, and made anxious inquiries regarding the _Jan-dous_, and how many
of them they might expect to meet with. Our people did not fail to give
them an exaggerated account of the number we had seen and fought with,
and the news did not appear greatly to delight them. During the night
the tide turned against us; and as the wind, although fair, was light,
we were obliged to anchor until morning.
When I went on deck at daylight the following morning, I found we were
just under Keto-point, and only a few miles from Chusan harbour. The
land was well known to me, having been frequently there before. It was
the most welcome sight which had met my eyes for many a long day; and I
was thankful indeed to the Almighty for my escape from the pirates.
Whilst the men were heaving up the anchor, my old friends the
captain and pilot came below, bolder and in much better spirits than
heretofore, and informed me, with the greatest coolness, that they had
changed their minds about going into the harbour of Chusan; and that
I must go over with them to Ningpo, from whence I could easily return
in a small boat for Chusan. I felt very much nettled at this conduct,
which, considering that I had saved their junk from being taken by the
pirates on two different occasions, was most ungrateful. I reproached
them with this ingratitude, telling them that, as they were now safe
from the _Jan-dous_, they imagined that they could do with me just as
they pleased. "But you never deceived yourselves more," added I: "you
may show as much ingratitude as you please; but I shall take care that
you fulfil the promise you made to me yesterday, and take me into the
harbour of Chusan before you go over to Ningpo. Look here: you see this
gun and these pistols; they are all loaded: you know what effects they
produced upon the _Jan-dous_; take care they are not turned against
yourselves. Englishmen never allow promises which have been made to
them to be broken with impunity. I know the way into Chusan harbour
as well as you do, and when the anchor is up I shall stand at the
helm; and if the pilot attempts to steer for Ningpo, he must take the
consequence." This threat had the desired effect; and the trembling
varlets landed me safely at Chusan in the course of the forenoon.
What with the fever and the excitement of the last few days, I was in
a most deplorable condition when I reached Chusan; but as the greater
part of my collections were in the country near Shanghae, I was most
anxious to ascertain in what state they were; and, finding an English
vessel about to sail for the Yang-tse-Kiang, I immediately crawled on
board, and, having a fair wind, we soon reached our destination. I
was kindly received by my friend Mr. Mackenzie, and under the skilful
treatment of Dr. Kirk, the fever gradually left me.
Amongst the more important of the acquisitions which I made in the
vicinity of Shanghae, I must not forget to mention a fine and large
variety of peach, which comes into the markets there about the middle
of August, and remains in perfection for about ten days. It is grown
in the peach orchards, a few miles to the south of the city; and it is
quite a usual thing to see peaches of this variety eleven inches in
circumference and twelve ounces in weight. This is, probably, what some
writers call the Peking peach, about which such exaggerated stories
have been told. Trees of the Shanghae variety are now in the garden of
the Horticultural Society of London.
The whole of my plants from the districts of Foo-chow-foo, Chusan, and
Ningpo, being brought together at Shanghae, I got them packed, and, on
the 10th of October, left the north of China for Hong-kong and ENGLAND.
As I went down the river, I could not but look around me with pride and
satisfaction; for in this part of the country I had found the finest
plants in my collections. It is only the patient botanical collector,
the object of whose unintermitted labour is the introduction of the
more valuable trees and shrubs of other countries into his own, who can
appreciate what I then felt.
When we arrived at Hong-kong, I divided my collections, and despatched
eight glazed cases of living plants for England: the duplicates of
these and many others I reserved to take home under my own care. I then
went up to Canton, and took my passage for London in the ship "John
Cooper." Eighteen glazed cases, filled with the most beautiful plants
of northern China, were placed upon the poop of the ship, and we sailed
on the 22d of December. After a long but favourable voyage, we anchored
in the Thames, on the 6th of May, 1846. The plants arrived in excellent
order, and were immediately conveyed to the garden of the Horticultural
Society at Chiswick. Already, many of those which I first imported have
found their way to the principal gardens in Europe; and at the present
time (October 20, 1846), the _Anemone japonica_ is in full bloom in the
garden of the Society at Chiswick, as luxuriant and beautiful as it
ever grew on the graves of the Chinese, near the ramparts of Shanghae.
[Illustration: Anemone on the Tombs.]
[Illustration: A Chinese Funeral.]
* * * * *
LONDON:
SPOTTISWOODE AND SHAW,
New-street-Square.