The mania for coffee planting has recently subsided, in consequence of

the barely remunerative returns at which that article has been sold,

ascribable partly to over-production, and in some measure, perhaps, to

the temporary glut of foreign coffee thrown on the British market by

the reduction of the duty. As regards the yield, some estates in

Ceylon have produced upwards of 15 cwt. per acre, but it is a good

estate that will average seven, and many do not give more than 4 cwt.

the acre.

The shipments from Colombo for five years, are stated below, with the

class of coffee:--

Plantation. Native. Total.

cwt. cwt. cwt.

1845 75,002 112,889 187,891

1846 91,240 70,991 162,231

1847 106,198 143,457 249,655

1848 191,464 88,422 279,886

1849 243,926 118,756 362,682

1850 198,997 56,692 255,689

1851 220,471 97,091 317,562

While, in 1839, the total value of the exports from Ceylon was only

£330,000, in 1850 the value of the single staple of coffee was no less

than £609,262, and in 1851 had still further increased.

I append a memorandum of the quantities of coffee exported from Ceylon

since 1836:--

Quantity. Value.

cwt. £

1836 60,329

1837 34,164

1838 49,541

1839 41,863

1840 68,206

1841 80,584 196,048

1842 119,805 269,763

1843 94,847 192,891

1844 133,957 267,663

1845 178,603 363,259

1846 173,892 328,781

1847 293,221 456,624

1848 280,010 387,150

1849 373,593 545,322

1850 278,473 609,262

1851 339,744

---------

Total in 16 years 2,600,832

---------

Average 162,552 (Ceylon Almanac for 1853.)

The local export duty of two-and-a-half per cent., was abolished from

1st September, 1848.

From these figures it appears that, in a period of sixteen years,

Ceylon exported two and a half millions of cwts. of coffee. The

consumption of coffee, although for a long time stationary in Britain,

now that adulteration is no longer legalised, is likely to increase as

rapidly as in other parts of the world; and it appears pretty evident

that, so long as anything like remunerative prices can be obtained,

Ceylon will do her part in supplying the world with an article which

occupies the position of a necessary to the poor as well as a luxury

to the rich. The exports of coffee from this colony have, within a few

thousands of hundredweights, been nearly quadrupled since 1843, when

only 94,000 cwts. were sent away.

Dr. Rudolph Gygax, in a paper submitted to the Ceylon Branch of the

Royal Asiatic Society, offered remarks on some analyses, of the coffee

of Ceylon, with suggestions for the applications of manures.

"Having had," he observes, "my attention drawn to an account of an

analysis of the Jamaica coffee berry, made by Mr. Herapath, the

Liverpool chemist, I have paid some little attention to the subject

of the coffee plant of this island, forming, as it does, so very

important a feature in the resources of this colony. The desire that

I thus felt for obtaining some information regarding the constituent

parts of the Ceylon tree and its fruit, was heightened by a

knowledge of the fact, that not a few of those coffee estates, which

once gave good promise of success, are now in a very precarious

state of production.

I much regret that the means at my disposal have not allowed me to

carry out any _quantative_ analysis, but the result of my labours

are sufficiently accurate for my present purpose. I have analysed

the wood and fruit of trees from two different localities, as well

as the ashes of some plants sent me from the Rajawella estate near

Kandy, and they all tend to bear out the result of Mr. Herapath's

inquiries. Placing the substances traced in the coffee plant in the

order in which they occur in the greatest quantity, they will stand

thus:--

Lime, potash, magnesia, phosphoric acid, other acids.

Of these lime is by far the most prominent, forming about 60 per

cent. of the whole.

I cannot help, therefore, arriving at the conclusion that, to

cultivate coffee with any degree of success, the first-named

substance must be present in the soil; or, if not present, must be

supplied to it by some process.

Now it is a singular fact that the rocks and soils of Ceylon are

greatly deficient in alkaline matter; and, taking this view of the

case, one no longer wonders that many estates cease to produce

coffee. That all, or nearly all the plantations did, in their first

year or two of bearing, produce liberally in fruit, may readily be

accounted for by the fact that the alkaline poverty of the soil was

enriched by the burning of the vast quantities of timber which lay

felled on all sides. Whilst this temporary supply lasted, all was

well with the planter. Heavy rains, and frequent scrapings of the

land with the mamotie, or hoe, soon dissipated this scanty supply,

and short crops are now the consequence.

But nature, ever bountiful, ever ready to compensate for all

deficiencies, has provided to our hands a ready means of remedying

this evil of the soil, by scattering throughout most parts of the

interior supplies of dolomitic limestone. The dolomite of Ceylon is

not pure, far from it, being mixed freely with apatite or phosphate

of lime. Even in this very accidental circumstance the coffee

planter is aided; for the phosphoric acid thus combined with the

limestone is the very substance required in addition. Some of the

finest properties in the island are situated on a limestone bottom,

and these no doubt will continue to yield abundant crops for a very

long period.

It has been urged against this opinion that in some districts where

coffee planting has proved a complete failure, dolomite is found

most abundantly; but I have very little doubt that the dolomite

here alluded to is only _magnesian_ limestone, and which is most

inimical to the coffee bush.

I am aware that already several manures have been tried on coffee

with varying degrees of success. Guano has, I believe, quite failed,

and is besides very costly. Cattle manure is said to be effective,

and no doubt it is, but it is a costly and troublesome affair.

Bones, ground fine, are now being tried, though they cannot but

prove most expensive, especially when imported.

A ton of bone dust contains of animal matter, 746 lbs,; phosphates

of lime, &c., 1,245 lbs.; carbonates of lime, &c., 249 lbs.

The virtue of bones lies in the phosphates far more than in the

animal matter, and thus their action on soils is felt for many years

after their application. The Singalese cultivators of paddy about

Colombo and Galle, appear to have been long aware of the fertilizing

effects of this kind of manure, and import the article in dhonies

from many parts of the coast: they bruise them coarsely before

applying them.

The partially decomposed husks of the coffee berry have been tried

for some years, and successfully, but they are difficult of

collection, and bulky to remove from one part of the estate to

another.

In Europe it would appear that little is yet known as to the causes

of the fertilising effects of oil cake: some suppose them to arise

mainly from the oil left by the crushing process, but this is not at

all clear. I do not, however, see that we must look for much

assistance from Poonac as a manure for coffee: for the cocoanut tree

it is doubtless most valuable, but we have yet to learn that, beyond

supplying so much more vegetable matter, it helps the action of the

soil on the roots of the coffee bush, which, after all, is what is

really required.

For the proper application of the dolomite to land as manure, it

should be freely burnt in a kiln, with a good quantity of wood, the

ashes of which should be afterwards mixed with the burnt lime, and

the whole exposed for several days to the action of the air,

sheltered of course from the weather. The mixture should be applied

just before the setting in of the monsoon rains: if the land be

tolerably level, the lime may be scattered broadcast on the surface,

though not quite near the plants. When the estate to be manured is

steep, then the substance to be applied should be placed in ridges

cut crossways to the descent of the slopes.

About one cwt. to the acre would be ample for most lands; some may,

however, require more. The contents of the husk pits might

advantageously be mixed up with the burnt lime, when a sufficiency

of it has been saved.

A planter in Ambagamoe states that he has tried the following remedy

for that destructive scourge, the coffee-bug, with great success.

He applies saltpetre in a finely-powdered state, dusted over the tree

when wet with rain or dew. The operation is inexpensive, as a very

small quantity suffices, one cwt. being sufficient for nine or ten

acres. It can be applied through a bamboo-joint covered with a

perforated top, or any equally simple contrivance.

Messrs. Worms' are reported to have found coco-nut oil an effectual

remedy.

To sum up the question of manures:--

Poonac, the marc or cake, after the coco-nut oil is expressed, is

represented to be a stimulating manure; but is not durable. Lime is an

useful application, especially to stiff soils, as the coffee tree

contains 60 parts of lime. Bone-dust is an excellent fertiliser, but

in Ceylon it is found that it cannot be applied at a less expense than

£5 per acre. Cattle manure is the cheapest and most available. Guano

does not seem suitable.

_Peeling, pulping, and winnowing._--The coffee-peeler, used for

separating the bean from the pellicle, was formerly a large wheel

revolving in a trough, the disadvantage of which was the flattening

more or less of the bean when not thoroughly dry. A new machine has

been recently introduced, the invention of Mr. Nelson, C.E., of the

Ceylon iron works, by which this evil is obviated; its principle being

not weight, but simple friction, of sufficient force to break the

parchment at first, and, when continued, to polish the bean free from

the husk. A very simple winnowing machine for cleaning the coffee as

it comes out of the peeler, is attached. From the winnowing machine it

runs into the separating machine, which sorts it into sizes, and

equalizes the samples, by which a vast amount of time and manual

labour are saved. The same principle is intended to be applied by Mr.

Nelson to pulping, which will obviate the injury now inflicted by the

grater upon the fresh berry. In spite of the greatest care numbers of

the beans in a sample, on close examination, will be found scratched

or pecked; and when the closest attention is not paid, or the person

superintending the process is devoid of mechanical skill, the injury

is proportionate.

The ordinary pulping-mill in use, consists of a cylinder of wood or

iron, covered with sheet brass or copper, and punctured similarly to a

nutmeg grater. This cylinder, technically called the barrel, runs upon

a spindle, which turns a brass pick on each side of a frame.

Immediately in a line with the centre upon which it turns, and placed

vertical to each other, are two pieces of wood, frequently shod with

iron of copper, called "the chops," placed about half an inch apart,

or sufficient to allow the passage of "parchment" coffee between them.

The lower chop is placed so close to the barrel, yet without contact,

that all coffee must be stopped by it and thrown outwards. The upper

chop is adjusted to that distance only which will permit the cherry

coffee to come into contact with the barrel; but will not allow the

berries to pass on till they have been denuded of their red epidermis

by a gentle squeeze against its rough surface. The far greater portion

of the pulps are separated by being carried past the lower chops upon

the sharp points of the copper, and thrown out behind, and a few are

left with the parchment coffee. As from the different sizes of the

berries, and their crowding for precedence as they descend from the

hopper above to the gentle embrace of the barrel and upper chop, some

pass unpulped, the coffee as it comes from the lower chop is made to

fall upon a riddle, which separates the unpulped cherries. These are

put back again, and passed through a pulper with the upper chop set

closer. The secret of working-appears to be the proper setting of the

chops, and many have been the schemes proposed for reducing this to a

certainty. Perhaps, after all, few plans are better than the old

wedges, by tightening or loosening of which the chop is kept in the

required position. Within the last few years, the machine has been

considerably improved by being formed entirely of iron, cog-wheels

being substituted in the place of straps and drums to move the riddle,

and the riddle itself is now formed of two sieves, by which the chance

of unpulped berries reaching the parchment is lessened. On some

estates, water-wheels have been put up to drive several pulpers at one

time, which otherwise would require from two to four men each to work

them, but from the costly buildings and appurtenances which such

machinery renders necessary, they are rare.

Although the operation of pulping is so simple, it is one which

requires the machine to be set in such a way that the greatest

quantity of work may be done, or, in other words, the smallest

quantity of unpulped berries be allowed to pass through. On the other

hand, the berries must not be subjected to injury from the barrel; for

if the parchment skin is pricked through, the berry will appear, when

cured, with an unsightly brown mark upon it. Several new coverings for

barrels, instead of punctured copper, have been tried; among others,

coir-cloth and wire net, but the old material is not as yet

superseded. After pulping, the coffee in parchment is received into

cisterns, in which it is, by washing, deprived of the mucilaginous

matter that still adheres to it. Without this most necessary

operation, the mucilage would ferment and expose the berry to injury,

from its highly corrosive qualities.

As some portion of pulp finds its way with the coffee to the cistern,

which, if suffered to remain would, by its long retention of moisture,

lengthen the subsequent drying process, various methods have been

adopted to remove it. One mode is to pass the coffee a second time

through a sieve worked by two men; another to pick it off the surfaces

of the cistern, to which it naturally rises.

In August, 1846, premiums were awarded by the Ceylon Agricultural

Society to Messrs. Clerihew and Josias Lambert for the improvements

they had introduced into coffee-pulpers, which, by their exertions,

had been brought to great perfection. The first improved complete

cast-iron pulper received in the island, was made for Mr. Jolly, from

drawings sent home by Mr. Lambert to Messrs. B. Hick and Son,

engineers. This pulper is one of the most perfect in every respect

that has yet been brought into use, the disadvantages belonging to the

old machine having been entirely remedied. The sieve crank has a

double eccentric action. The chops are regulated by set screws, and

the sieve suspended in a novel and secure manner, the whole combining

strength and efficacy, together with an elegance of form, which will

likewise be appreciated.

Mr. W. Clerihew, of Ceylon, submitted to the Great Exhibition a model

of his approved apparatus for drying coffee (which has been patented

in the name of Robert R. Banks, Great George Street, Westminster), and

received the Isis gold medal for the same. The intention is to dry the

vegetable and aqueous moisture of the berry. Before this is required,

the coffee has previously undergone the process of pulping, or

removal from the soft fleshy husk. Here let Mr. Clerihew describe the

advantages for himself--

"When the coffee berry is picked from the tree it bears a closer

resemblance to a ripe cherry, both in size and appearance; and

several processes have to be gone through before the article known

in commerce as coffee is produced. In the first place, the pulpy

exterior of the cherry has to be removed by the process of pulping,

which separates the seed and its thin covering called the parchment,

from the husk. When the pulping process is completed, we have the

parchment coffee by itself in a cistern, and the next process

consists in getting rid of the mucilage with which it is covered."

Having become assured, both by experiment and by Liebig's reasoning,

that the successive stages of decomposition were wholly ascribable to

the action of the stagnant air which occupies the interstices between

the beans, and taking into account that a mass of coffee presented a

medium pervious to air, it occurred to Mr. Clerihew that it was

possible, by means of fanners, working on the exhausting principle, so

to withdraw air from an enclosed space as to establish a current of

air through masses of coffee spread on perforated floors forming the

top and bottom of that space. The plan he carried into execution at

Rathgoongodde plantation in 1849. No sooner was the plan put in

operation than, instead of stagnant air occupying the interstices of

the beans and gradually acting on them, a stream of air was

established and flowing through the mass of coffee, each bean of it

became surrounded by a constantly renewed atmosphere of fresh air.

_Java_.--When Arabia enjoyed the exclusive monopoly of coffee, it

could not be foreseen that one day the island of Java would furnish

for the consumption of the world from 125 to 130 millions of pounds

per annum. The cultivation was introduced by M. Zwaendenkroom, the

Governor-General of Batavia, who obtained seeds from Mocha, in 1723.

According to official statements the following are the exports.

In 1839 there were exported 46,781,729 kilogrammes, valued at 48

million florins. Eight years labor, 1833 to 1841, brought its produce

of coffee from 12 million kilogrammes annually, up to 55 millions.

In 1846, the exports were 916,876 piculs, but, in 1850 they were only

14,801 piculs. The total coffee crop of Java was in 1850, 1,280,702

lbs.; in 1851, 1,436,171 lbs.; in 1852, 1,229,349 lbs.

1840 1841

Residences in which this produce has been

cultivated in 1840 and 1841 20 20

Number of families destined for the labor 470,673 453,289

Trees which have yielded a crop 916,193,894 216,085,600

Trees which have produced the average quantity

of a picul of 125 lbs. Dutch 280 248

Quantity of coffee furnished to the godowns

in piculs 706,258 877,444

Trees according to the reckoning made in the

month of March, 1841 and 1842 336,922,460 329,898,936

The comparative result of this table shows--1st. That, in the year

1841, coffee had been gathered from 20,000,000 more trees than the

number in 1840, and that the crop had increased by 171,000 piculs.

2nd. That, in the month of March, 1842, there were above 7 millions

less of coffee trees than in 1840. This diminution is merely nominal,

seeing that these trees have served to replace those which by their

small produce have to be suppressed in the lowlands of the residency

of Baylen. On the contrary, the increase of trees, planted from 1839

to 1840, amount to very nearly the same number, of 7 millions.

3rd. That, in the season of 1842, there was planted nearly 20 millions

of plants; of which 12 millions are to serve to replace the old trees,

and 8 millions are destined to extend this culture. It is calculated

that this island will very soon be in a condition to produce a million

of piculs or 125 millions more of Dutch pounds of coffee. Previous to

1830, Java scarcely exported as much as 40 millions of pounds.

_Cultivation and Preparation of Coffee in Java_.--For the following

valuable details I am indebted to M. de Munnick, the inspector of the

agricultural department, Batavia, as contributed to my "Colonial

Magazine" (vol. xi. p. 46).

_Soil and Situation_.--Elevated lands are found to be those best

suited for the growth of coffee in Java. Land situated between 1,000

and 4,000 feet above the level of the sea may be generally said to be

adapted to the cultivation of coffee. It must not be taken for granted

that all ground of less elevation is unsuited. Suitable ground is to

be found lower down, but the cultivation on it is more difficult; the

tree gives less fruit, and the plant is less durable. Valleys lying

between high mountains are more especially fit for coffee plantations,

because the soil which is washed down from the heights affords fresh

food continually to the lowlands; the valleys themselves are moist,

since the hills surrounding them attract the rain; and they are shut

out from severe winds by the same protecting enclosure. The soils best

suited to the successful growth of coffee may be classed as follows:--

_Firstly_. Cleared forest lands, especially those in which the black

leafy, or vegetable mould is found to considerable depth. These are

the richest grounds, and will support the coffee plant for many years,

and they are also cultivated with the least trouble.

_Secondly_. Dark brown soils, approaching to black, which, without

having much clay in them, appear to the eye to have a mixture of

coral. The greater the depth of this coral-like stratum, and of the

reddish or deep yellowish soil, the better is the ground for coffee.

This kind of land also has sufficient strength and substance to afford

nourishment for many years to the plant; but it entails more trouble

than the before mentioned soils, because the young plant does not so

speedily strike root into it, and sometimes dies, so that provision

has to be made against failures.

_Thirdly_. Reddish and loose ground, such as is generally found in

the neighbourhood of volcanic lands. This kind is frequently found

well adapted for coffee; it flourishes on such land luxuriantly, but

does not last long, as the ground possesses less strength and

nourishing substance.[6] By digging in different places we become

better acquainted with the nature of the ground, but we may take it as

a rule, that rich old forest land on which many larger trees are

found, and plains covered with heavy underwood, most frequently offer

eligible sites for coffee plantations.

Grounds in which loam is found, and stony soils, are unfit for coffee.

But I do not mean by "stony soils" land on which many stones are

lying, for on that very account it may be most suitable; but I mean

land which shows a pebbly stratum just below the surface, or such as

is of a porous, stony nature. In the choice of situation care must be

taken to select that which is as much as possible protected against

the south-east wind, because its dry influence is very injurious to

the coffee plant, and also prevents the growth of the _Erythrina_

(known here locally as the Dadap tree) which is so necessary for its

shade. Flat grounds, or gentle declivities, are better than steep

slopes; yet the latter can be well employed if proper care is taken.

_Cultivation_.--After the ground has been cleared in the dry

season--that is, after the bushes have been rooted out, the

undergrowth burnt off, and the thickets removed--ploughing is

commenced in September. When the ground has twice been deeply

ploughed, the weeds and roots must be brought together with the rake

and carefully burnt. The depth of the ploughing must be regulated by

the nature of the ground. In all kinds of cultivation, deep ploughing

is recommended, but in Java we ought not to plough deeper than the

stratum of fertile soil, as a kind of subsoil may be wrought uppermost

injurious to plants, and which, before it can become fertile, must for

a year at least have been exposed to the atmosphere.

The ground having been turned up, should be left exposed for some days

to throw off the vapor arising from it; and must then be again

ploughed and cleared with the rake. After waiting for some days, it

should be ploughed for the fourth and last time, and made as clean and

friable as possible. In small plantations this is to be done with the

spade, but on large estates the roller must be used. This roller

consists of a heavy piece of round wood, eight or ten feet long, to

which a pole is fastened in the middle to have oxen harnessed to it.

It is drawn slowly over the ploughed land, and presses the clods to

earth. To give it greater force, the driver sits or stands upon it.

Before the field has been properly ploughed and rolled in the above

way, the middle of October will have arrived, and we then begin to

open a path through the plantation from the highest to the lowest

point, about two roods broad, and the whole of the land is then

divided into separate parcels. Portioning off the estates into

divisions of equal size is a system to be much recommended. By this

means labor may be equally divided, superintended and inspected. Order

and regularity, which are necessary in all things, are most especially

required in cultivation on a large scale.

The size of these parcels is regulated by the nature of the estate. On

flat or gently declining land they may be greater than on steep

grounds, because, in order to prevent the washing away of the soil on

precipitous land, the water must be led off by trenches, which of

themselves make the divisions of land smaller. On flat ground the

divisions may be each 625 square roods, each of which may contain, if

planted--

Trees.

12 feet by 12 625

10 " 10 900

8 " 8 1406

6 " 6 2500

The distance between the coffee bushes cannot be definitely laid down,

as it depends on the nature of the soil. On the most fertile forest

lands twelve feet by twelve is a good distance. Only on low and meagre

grounds, where the tree grows less luxuriantly and strong, can six

feet by six be reckoned a proper distance.

Between the divisions a path should be left, one rood in breadth.

Along the middle paths and by the side of the divisions drains must be

cut, the former two feet in breath and depth, the latter one foot. The

drains along the divisions must be cut in such a way as to conduct the

rain-water to the larger drains which flank the middle paths. On

precipitous ground, when the coffee is planted, small ridges should be

raised between the rows, to prevent the rich earth from washing down

in the heavy rains. The steeper the land is, the closer these ridges

should be; and care should be taken to incline them, so as to break

the descent, the direction of which they should in some degree follow.

The first ridges may be made with the branches of the trees which have

been felled, or with the rubbish cleared from the ground on the first

raking of it.

_Placing the pickets._--When the ground has been worked and divided in

the above manner, the pickets are placed. These are slips of bamboo

one-and-a-half to two feet long. First--two long canes (which do not

stretch like string), each one hundred feet long, are marked off in

feet according to the distance at which the planting is to take place;

heavy stakes are made fast to each end of them, by which they can be

well secured on the ground. At the places where they are marked off in

feet, strings are fastened so tightly that they cannot be displaced;

and then the canes are laid down and well fixed in the ground, one in

the length and the other in the breadth.

Picketing does not give much trouble; it ensures regular planting, and

makes the daily inspection simple. The planting thus takes place in

straight lines, which give an ornamental appearance, and afterwards

renders the view over the whole plantation easy. At every place where

a string has been tied, a picket is stuck in the ground; then the cane

is removed to another place, and so on till all the estate is marked

out by pickets. After the picketing, a hole is made with the spade at

every mark; it should be a good foot broad and deep, and the earth

inside should be made very fine and clear. The earth is now ready to

receive the coffee plant, and the time has only to be waited for when

the first rains fully begin.

_Nurseries_.--In the month of October, or earlier, if coffee trees are

near at hand, nurseries must be prepared in the neighbourhood of the

land about to be planted. This can be done in the ravines, or, if they

are too far from the spot where the plants are wanted, pieces of

ground most convenient can be selected. If the ravines are preferred,

places must be chosen which are shaded by trees not prejudicial to the

coffee plants. On ground where there is no trees, the nurseries may be

covered, at the height of four feet, with leaves of jack (_Artocarpus

integrifolia_), areca, or other palm trees, in a manner to admit the

air.

The ground made loose and fine, coffee plants newly opening, or seeds

only, are planted or sown at a distance of four inches square; 500

square roods will in this way furnish 648,000 plants, which are

sufficient for an estate of 300,000 trees. Transplanting from

nurseries is absolutely necessary in coffee cultivation, and the

trouble it costs is always doubly repaid. Having a choice of plants, a

person can be convinced he has taken none but healthy trees, and he

proceeds therefore with a confidence of success. After the first year,

all failures having been nearly replaced, the estate is fully planted,

the trees are of regular growth, and no useless clearing is

required--a thing which is always necessary in irregular plantations.

It is easy also to pick the berries from the trees which are planted

with regularity; the work goes on smoothly; and, when the estate has

lived its time, it may be abandoned altogether, without leaving

patches of living trees here and there, which renders superintendence

so very difficult.

There should always be a plentiful supply of plants, to give an ample

choice and to make up for failures. When plants are placed in the

nurseries, they should not have more than two offshoots, or leaves,

above each other; and when the ball plants are transplanted, they

should not be higher than a foot, as large plants always give meagre

trees.

At the end of November or beginning of December, if the nurseries are

kept free from weeds, and, if necessary, occasionally watered, the

plants will be about a foot high, and will have put forth 4 or 5

leaves; they are then just fit to be transplanted. Then, the ground is

cloven with the spade, at a distance of an inch and a half round the

stem of the plant, to about three inches deep; the plant, with the

ball of earth adhering to it, is carefully lifted out of the ground,

and the ball is wrapped in a jack, plantain, or other leaf, and tied

to prevent the earth falling off; but, before the plants are thus

taken from the ground, it must be moistened to make the earth

adhesive.

_Planting the coffee trees_.--The plants, which, after the above

operation are called "ball plants," are then placed in a bamboo wicker

frame, and are carefully carried by two men to the place where they

are to be put into the ground. They are then taken out of the frame

and placed in the holes next to the pickets. The pickets are removed,

and the plant is fixed upright; the leaf surrounding the ball is made

loose, but not taken away; the planter presses the plant down with his

hand and fills up the hole with fine loose earth, and the business of

planting the coffee tree is finished.

_Planting the Dadap tree_.--This is a species of Erythrina, probably

_E. indica_, or _E. arborescens_; that used for the purpose in the

West Indies is _E. Corallodendrum_. In Java, as soon as the coffee is

planted, the operation of planting the dadap tree is commenced. The

best sort of dadap comes from Serp or Mienyak; it is smooth and

broad-leaved, and shoots up quickly. Thick young stems are chosen,

about three feet long, and the lower part is pointed off. If the dadap

is moist or juicy, it should be cut twenty-four hours before it is

planted. The dadap is planted uniformly by measuring the cane in the

same way as the coffee itself. Between every two rows of coffee one of

dadap is planted, not on a line with the coffee plants, but

alternately with them; thus, if the coffee is eight feet by eight, the

dadap is sixteen by sixteen. The dadap is planted to the depth of a

foot, with somewhat of a westerly inclination, in order that the

morning sun may fall on a larger surface of the stick. The ground must

be stiffly trodden round the bottom of the stem, and the upper part of

it should have some kind of leaf tightly bound around it to prevent

the sap from escaping. When the coffee and dadap plants have thus been

put out, every fifth day the young plantation should be carefully

inspected, and a picket placed wherever there is a failure, as a mark

to the planter that a new plant is there required. This operation of

replacing failures is carried on all through the wet season, and the

dadaps which have not succeeded are at the same time changed.

_Keeping up the estate_.--In the first six months after planting, the

estate should be cleaned each fortnight with the hoe; the ground being

well moved and the weeds taken out. Those weeds which are too close to

the plants to be removed in this manner, must be pulled out with the

hand. When the plantation is thus wholly or partially cleaned, the

earth must be taken off the weeds, and they must be collected and

thrown on the pathways.

The weeding in this manner gives at first a great deal of trouble, but

it is most advantageous in the long run, as the weeds are thus easily

kept down.

Great care must be taken to do away with an old custom of burying the

weeds in large holes on the estates. It conduces to bad and slovenly

habits, such as cutting off the tops of the weeds by wholesale, and

thus giving the plantation an appearance of cleanliness, whilst it, in

fact, is as dirty as ever. This is soon discovered by the weeds

showing themselves again above ground in a very few days, and even if

they rot under ground, they breed insects which are very hurtful to

the bushes, and the seeds vegetate.

After the first six months, this weeding will be sufficient if it

takes places once a month, but this must be persevered in till the

third year, when there may be a much greater interval between the

weeding. When the trees are coming to full growth, the hoe should be

less frequently used in cleaning; the hand must be used to the full

extent to which the branches reach, as the roots of the tree spread to

a like distance, and if they are injured the growth of the tree is

prejudiced.

The well-being of an estate chiefly depends on frequent cleaning of

the plantation in the beginning. The idea of some persons that

cleaning in the dry season is of little consequence, must be given up,

as it is principally at that very time that it is extremely profitable

to remove and clear the ground round the trees in their growth. In the

first place, this destroys the weeds which take the nourishment away

from the trees; secondly, the ground is rendered more open to receive

the slight showers and dews which moisten it, and to benefit by the

influence of the air; the roots are thus considerably refreshed. The

dew falling on ground which has been recently moved, penetrates at

once into it, and does good to the plant; but if it falls on the

weeds, the first rays of the sun absorb it, and deprive the tree of

this source of refreshment.

The dadap is to be taken care of whilst clearing goes on; it must be

cropped so as to cause it to grow upright, and to throw as much shade

as possible on the coffee without pressing upon it.

In warm fertile ground, where the coffee plant grows rapidly, the

trees should be topped in the third year; but this should be done

sparingly, and as a general measure it is not to be recommended; it

should be resorted to only as a means to prevent the too rapid growth

of the tree, or its running up to a point. Topping and taking off

suckers are both necessary on meagre soils, where the trees run much

to wood; and it prevents the trees being injured in the picking

season, which often occurs without this precaution. The top or middle

stem is broken off at a height of six or seven feet, but care must be

taken not to tear the tree; when the top shoots out again it must be

cropped a second time, and it is seldom necessary to do this more than

twice. The cropping causes the tree to shoot out in breadth, and to

push forth a greater number of sprigs, and good strong ones.

_Picking coffee_.--When the estate becomes productive, it must in the

picking season, just before the work begins, be kept exceedingly clear

of weeds, and be even swept clean with brooms, in order that the

berries which fall off may be gathered up.

The picking should take place under proper superintendence, the trees

be picked row by row, and care taken that each berry is plucked off

separately, and not a heap together, by which the trees are torn and

the first offshoots prevented. In picking high trees, light ladders

should be used, made out of two or three bamboos tied together.

_Customary preparation of the berry in the pulp_.--When the coffee is

picked and brought into the village, it is piled up in a heap in the

open air, and left in that manner for twenty-four hours. Thus heaped

up it gets warm, and this creates a certain fermentation of the juice

which is in the berry. That fermentation promotes the drying and

loosens the silvery pellicle which is attached to the bean inside the

parchment, and which cannot be entirely got rid of in any other way.

Coffee which still retains that pellicle is called in trade "grey

coffee," and is lower priced than good clean sorts. After the

fermentation, the coffee is spread out in rather thick layers, and

turned over twice a day. If it rains during this first spreading out,

the coffee does not require to be sheltered, as the washing causes the

juicy substance to evaporate, and this accelerates the drying

afterwards.

In proportion as the coffee becomes dryer, the thickness of the layer

must be reduced, and the turning over must be more frequent till the

coffee is quite dry outside and the pulp has become hard.

Then the coffee is laid out on drying floors, which can be easily and

speedily covered in rainy or damp weather, and is dried by the

powerful heat of the sun.

This system of drying in the pulp requires six weeks or two months, as

it is advisable not to be over hasty with drying.

When the coffee is entirely dry, it is either at once pounded or

placed in the stores to await that operation. In order to know if the

coffee be sufficiently dry, take a handful of it and shut your hand

close; shake it to your ear, and listen if the beans rattle freely in

the pulp. Or try them by biting the berry, and see if the bean and

pulp are both brittle and crisp, which shows that the fruit is dry

enough.

_Preparation of the coffee in the parchment, or the West India

system_.--Only sound and fully ripe beans can be prepared in the West

India manner. In picking, therefore, all unripe, green, or unsound

beans must be taken away to dry in the pulp. As soon as the coffee is

brought in, it must be pulped. This operation is performed by means of

small peeling mills. These mills consist of two horizontal wooden

cylinders rubbing on a plank; they are covered with hoop-iron, and set

in motion by a water-wheel. The coffee is driven under the cylinder,

and kept constantly moist; by being turned through the mill, the pulp

is so bruised that the bean in the parchment falls from it into the

bamboo open frame, which is placed in front of the mill. The coffee is

then pressed with the hand, and falls through the frame into a basket.

The pulp, and beans not rid of the pulp, remain on the frame; the

first is cleared away, the rest passes a second time into the mill,

and this operation is continued till all the coffee is stripped of

the pulp, and the parchment beans are in the basket. When the

parchment coffee is thus separated from the outer skin, it is thrown

into the washing troughs, and remains there for twenty-four hours;

this drains from it the slimy substance adhering to it. After being

thus steeped, it is washed with pure water two or three times in the

basket, so that it becomes quite free from slimy matter. The parchment

coffee is then spread out on drying frames, and exposed for six or

eight days to the heat of the sun, till the outside is perfectly dry.

To do this equally it must be stirred about every hour. These frames,

which serve also to dry the coffee in the pulp, are made as

follows:--A bamboo roof is set up, resting on four wooden pillars, and

sloping considerably; it is covered closely with reeds; its length is

ten feet, its breadth six feet; the pillars are from nine to ten feet

high; a wooden framework is attached to this, about thirty feet long,

or three times the length of the space covered by the roof. On this

frame are brought out three platforms, one above the other, which are

pushed out by means of little rollers under them; they are ten feet

long by six broad, and six inches deep. The borders are of wood, and

the bottom of platted bamboo. In rainy weather, or when the drying

cannot go on, the three platforms are pushed under the covered space.

These drying places are set up near the overseer's dwelling, where

they stand free, and are not shaded by trees or buildings. After this

first drying on platforms, the parchment coffee is again dried inside

the house, and bamboo huts are for this purpose erected on each side

of the outhouse of the planters. These huts have trays, divided into

two or three compartments, one above the other, to keep the coffee

separate, according to the time of its having been picked. The

parchment coffee is spread out as thin as possible, and turned over

with a small wooden rake every hour. In proportion to the dryness of

the weather, from one to two months are required to dry the coffee

fully. In drying inside the houses, the greatest care must be taken to

prevent heating the coffee; this is the great object of the West

Indian system, as such heating is very prejudicial. On this account

the huts in which the platforms are placed must be very airy, so that

the wind may have good play among the trays, on which the coffee must

be thinly spread and frequently turned.

_Pounding_.--Coffee in the pulp, as well as that in the parchment,

must, before being pounded, be exposed for some hours to the sun to

make it crisp and hard; but it must be allowed to cool again before

the pounding begins, or the beans will be liable to be broken.

The pounding is done in small baskets of a conical form, two feet

high, at the top eighteen inches in diameter, and at the bottom one

foot. These baskets are, up to one-third of their height, thickly

woven round with coir, and fastened on the ground between four thick

bamboo poles, and with the bottom half an inch in the ground itself.

The coffee is pounded by small quantities at a time with light, wooden

pestles; the baskets must not be more than half full. When the coffee

is sufficiently pounded, the basket is lifted from between the poles

and the beans are thrown into sieves, on which it is cleaned from

skin, and white, black, or broken beans. According to the West Indian

system, the coffee must now be instantly put in bags, to preserve its

greenish colour, which is very peculiar. If the green coffee is not

instantly sent to the packing stores to be bagged, it must be put up

in a very dry place, and be turned over once every day, to prevent

heating, which damps and discolors the berry.

Coffee is grown to some extent in Celebes--the average crop being from

10,000 to 12,000 piculs of 133 English pounds. The production has

rather fallen off than increased during the last few years. The whole

of the coffee grown must be delivered by the inhabitants to the

government exclusively, at twelve copper florins per picul. It is much

prized in the Netherlands, and maintains a higher price in the market

than the best Java coffee. As the treatment of the product in Java

differs wholly from that which is in vogue in Celebes, and this, in

our eyes, is much inferior, I know not whether the higher price is

ascribable to the name, or to an intrinsic superiority in quality. It

is certain that this cultivation is susceptible of much improvement,

and might be advanced to a much higher condition.

From tables given by M. Spreeuwenberg ("Journal of the Indian

Archipelago," vol. ii. p. 829) of the quantity of coffee delivered

from each district of this island, for the years 1838 to 1842, it

appears that the average annual delivery of coffee was 1,288,118 lbs.

Of the production of Sumatra I have no details, but a very fair

proportion is grown there--about five million pounds.

_Production of America and the West Indies_.--The cultivation of the

coffee plant is largely carried on in South and Central America and

the West India Islands.

Its culture has greatly increased within the last few years in

Venezuela, particularly in the valleys and on the sides of the hills.

The exports from La Guayra, in 1833, were about twelve millions of

pounds, being nearly double the quantity exported in 1830. The price

there is about ten dollars the 100 lbs., which is still too high to

enable it to enter into competition with the produce of Brazil or

Cuba.

The total produce of coffee in Venezuela in 1839 was 254,567 quintals.

The quintal is about 10 lbs. less than the English cwt.

_La Guayra_.--The exports of coffee from this port in 1796, were 283

quintals.

Quintals.

1843 164,066

1844 141,934

1845 134,585

1846 175,346

1847 130,671

1850 179,537

The exports of coffee from La Guayra have been declining within the

past few years; the shipments were but 153,901 quintals in 1851, and

only 124,623 in 1852.

Caracas coffee ranks in our market with good ordinary St. Domingo.

The decline in the produce of coffee in the British West India

possessions has been very great. In 1838, we imported from the West

India Islands and British Guiana 17½ million pounds of coffee, in 1850

we only received 4¼ million pounds from thence. The shipments from

Jamaica have decreased from about 15 million pounds in 1836, to 4

million pounds in 1850; Berbice and Demerara, from 5 million pounds in

1837, to about 8,000 pounds in 1850.

_Production of coffee in the Brazils_.--Forty-two years ago the annual

crop of coffee in Brazil did not exceed 30,000 bags, and even in 1820

it only reached 100,000 bags. About that time the high price of coffee

in England, superadded to the diminished production in Cuba,

stimulated the Brazilian planters to extend its cultivation, and in

1830 they sent to market 400,000 bags, or 64,090,000 lbs., and in

1847, the enormous quantity of 300,000,000 lbs.

It would seem from the annexed figures that the production of coffee

in Brazil doubled every five years, up to 1840, since when it has

increased eighty per cent. The increase since 1835 has been upwards of

two hundred millions of pounds, and of that increase the United States

have taken one half.

lbs.

1820 15,312,000

1825 29,201,600

1830 62,685,600

1835 100,346,400

1840 170,208,800

1850 303,556,960

The sources from whence the United States derives its supplies of

coffee are shown in the following table:--

Years. Brazil. Cuba. St. Domingo. Java. Total

1835 35,774,876 29,373,675 19,276,290 4,728,890 103,199,577

1840 47,412,756 25,331,888 9,153,524 4,343,254 94,996,095

1845 78,553,616 1,157,794 13,090,359 3,925,716 108,133,369

1850 90,319,511 3,740,803 19,440,985 5,146,961 144,986,895

1851 107,578,257 3,009,084 13,205,766 2,423,968 152,453,617

Coffee, up to 1830, paid a duty in the United States of five cents a

pound. Since 1832 it has been free.

The population of the United States in 1840 was, in round numbers,

seventeen millions; the average consumption of coffee for the three

years ending 1841, 98½ millions of pounds, which gave a consumption of

5¾ lbs. per head. The average for the three years ending 1850, was 143

millions of pounds, and the population was twenty-three millions,

which gave a consumption of 6¼ lbs. per head. In 1830 the consumption

was only 3 lbs. per head; but the price ruled nearly double what it

was in the three years preceding 1850.

In 1821 the consumption per head, to the inhabitants of the United

States, was 1 lb. 4 oz. In 1830, the proportion had increased to 3

lbs. per head, the foreign price having fallen fifty per cent. The

importation in the year 1831 doubled, in consequence of the reduced

duty; and the consumption per head for the four years ending with

1842, averaged 6 lb. per head, having quadrupled to each inhabitant

since 1821. From 1820 to 1840, the Brazilian product increased 1,100

per cent, or 155 million pounds. In the same time the consumption in

the United States increased 137 million pounds; leaving an increase of

eighteen million pounds of Rio coffee, besides the enhanced products

of all countries, to supply the increased consumption of England and

Europe.

The consequence of the duty in England is, that while the United

States, with a population of seventeen millions, consumed, in 1844,

149,711,820 lbs. of coffee, Great Britain, with a population of

twenty-seven millions, consumed 31,934,000 lbs. only, or less than

one-fourth the consumption of the United States. In 1851 the figures

remained nearly the same, viz., 148,920,000 lbs. in the United States,

and 32,564,000 lbs. for Great Britain.

The cultivation of coffee forms the present riches of Costa Rica, and

has raised it to a state of prosperity unknown in any other part of

Central America. It was begun about fifteen years ago; a few plants

having been brought from New Granada, and the first trial being

successful, it has rapidly extended. All the coffee is grown in the

plain of San Jose, where the three principal towns are situated--about

two-thirds being produced in the environs of the capital, a fourth in

those of Hindia, and the remainder at Alhajuela, and its vicinity. The

land which has been found by experience to be best suited to coffee is

a black loam, and the next best, a dark-red earth--soils of a brown

and dull yellow color being quite unsuitable. The plain of San Jose is

mostly of the first class, being, like all the soils of Central

America, formed with a large admixture of volcanic materials. Contrary

to the experience of Java and Arabia Felix, coffee is here found to

thrive much better, and produce a more healthy and equal berry on

plain land, than upon hills, or undulating slopes, which doubtless

arises from the former retaining its moisture better, and generally

containing a larger deposit of loam.

I am inclined, in a great measure, to attribute the practice of sowing

coffee in sloping land in Java to this fact, that the plains are

usually occupied by the more profitable cultivation of sugar-canes. In

Arabia, the plains are generally of a sandy nature (being lands which

have, apparently, at no very distant geological period, formed the bed

of the sea), which may account for the plantations existing only upon

the low hills and slopes.

A coffee plantation in Costa Rica produces a crop the third year after

it is planted, and is in perfection the fifth year. The coffee trees

are planted in rows, with a space of about three yards between each

and one between each plant, resembling in appearance hedges of the

laurel bay. The weeds are cut down, and the earth slightly turned with

a hoe, three or four times in the year; and the plant is not allowed

to increase above the height of six feet, for the facility of

gathering the fruit. The coffee tree here begins to flower in the

months of March and April, and the berry ripens in the plains of San

Jose in the months of November and December, strongly resembling a

wild cherry in form and appearance, being covered with a similar sweet

pulp.

As soon as the crimson color assumed by the ripe fruit indicates the

time for cropping, numbers of men, women, and children are sent to

gather the berry, which is piled in large heaps, to soften the pulp,

for forty-eight hours, and then placed in tanks, through which a

stream of water passes, when it is continually stirred, to free it

from the outer pulp; after which it is spread out on a platform, with

which every coffee estate is furnished, to dry in the sun; but there

still exists an inner husk, which, when perfectly dry, is, in the

smaller estates, removed by treading the berry under the feet of oxen;

and in the larger, by water-mills, which bruise the berry slightly to

break the husk, and afterwards separate it by fanners. The entire cost

of producing a quintal (101 1-5 lbs. British) of coffee, including the

keeping of the estate in order, cleaning and fanning the plants, and

gathering and preparing the berries, is, at the present rate of wages

(two rials, or about a shilling per day), calculated at two and a half

dollars (equal to ten shillings); but the laborers are now hardly

sufficient for working all the estates which are planted, so that the

price may probably rise a little, though the present rate of payment

enables the natives to live much better than has been their wont.

The coffee tree bears flowers only the second year, and its blossoms

last only 24 hours. The returns of the third year are very abundant;

at an average, each plant yielding a pound and a-half or two pounds of

coffee.

The price of coffee in San Jose during the months of February, March

and April, after which none can generally be met with, was, in 1846,

about 5 dollars cash per quintal, the duty (which is collected for the

repairs of the road) one rial more, so that the speculator makes at

least ten rials, or about 20 per cent., by purchasing and sending the

coffee to the port, on his outlay and charges; but it is often

bartered for manufactured goods, and is also purchased before-hand,

half being paid in imports and half in cash to the grower.

The largest coffee estates of Costa Rica are possessed by the family

of Montealegre and Don Juan Moira. The principal of these I have

examined. They appear to be very carefully and judiciously managed,

possessing good mills for cleaning and husking the coffee, worked by

water power; and annually producing 500 tons. The entire produce of

the year 1836, amounted to about 3,000 tons, and the crop of 1847

exceeded 4,000 tons, near which quantity it will probably continue,

till the population gradually increases, the laborers, as already

mentioned, being barely sufficient for the present cultivation. As the

value at the present average price in the English market of 50s. a

cwt., will give £200,000, the produce of the district will appear

pretty considerable for a petty American State, possessing only 80,000

inhabitants, and just emerging from a half-savage

condition.--(Dunlop's "Central America.")

The cultivation of coffee on the plains of San Jose, in Costa Rica,

according to Stephens, has increased rapidly within a few years. Seven

years before, the whole crop was not more than 500 quintals, and in

1844 it amounted to 90,000.

Don Mariano Montealegre is one of the largest proprietors there, and

had three plantations in that neighbourhood. One, which Mr. Stephens

visited, contained 27,000 trees, and he was preparing to make great

additions the next year. He had expended a large sum of money in

buildings and machinery; and though his countrymen said he would ruin

himself, every year he planted more trees. His wife, La Senora, was

busily engaged in husking and drying the berries. In San Jose, by the

way (he adds), all the ladies were what might be called good

business-men, kept stores, bought and sold goods, looked out for

bargains, and were particularly knowing in the article of coffee.

The coffee at Surinam is suffered to grow in three stems from the

root, and when one of them does not produce plenty of berries, it is

cast away, and the best shoot in appearance next the root is allowed

to grow in its room. The trees are not permitted to rise higher than

about five feet, so that the negroes can very easily pluck the

berries, for gathering which there are two seasons, the one in May, or

the beginning of June, and the other in October or the beginning of

November. The berries are often plucked of unequal ripeness, which

must greatly injure the quality of the coffee. It is true when the

coffee is washed, the berries which float on the water are separated

from the others; but they are only those of the worst quality, or

broken pieces, while the half-ripe beans remain at the bottom with the

rest. Now, in the description I have given of the method of gathering

coffee in Arabia, it is seen that the tree is suffered to grow to its

natural height, and the berries are gathered by shaking the tree, and

making them fall on mats placed for them. By this way the Arabians

harvest only the beans perfectly ripe at the time, and which must give

the coffee a more delicate flavor. A tree will yield each time on an

average from 1 lb. to 1½ lb. of coffee, when pulped and perfectly

dried. An acre of land planted with coffee, when favored by the

weather, becomes more profitable than when it is planted with sugar

canes; but its crops are always very precarious, as the blossoms, and

even the berries, are sometimes damaged by the heavy rains, which are

much less injurious to sugar canes; wherefore a planter feels himself

best secured in his revenue, as soon as he can cultivate them both.

Nothing can exceed the beauty of the walks planted with coffee trees,

from their pyramidical shape and from their glossy dark green leaves,

shining with great brightness, amongst which are hanging the

scarlet-coloured berries. Mr. Baird, in his "Impressions of the West

Indies," thus speaks of a coffee plantation:--

"Anything in the way of cultivation more beautiful, or more

fragrant, than a coffee plantation, I had not conceived; and oft did

I say to myself, that if ever I became, from health and otherwise, a

cultivator of the soil within the tropics, I would cultivate the

coffee plant, even though I did so irrespective altogether of the

profit that might be derived from so doing. Much has been written,

and not without justice, of the rich fragrance of an orange grove;

and at home we ofttimes hear of the sweet odors of a bean-field. I

have, too, often enjoyed in the Carse of Stirling, and elsewhere in

Scotland, the balmy breezes as they swept over the latter,

particularly when the sun had burst out, with unusual strength,

after a shower of rain. I have likewise, in Martinique, Santa Cruz,

Jamaica, and Cuba, inhaled the gales wafted from the orangeries; but

not for a moment would I compare either with the exquisite aromatic

odors from a coffee plantation in full blow, when the

hill-side--covered over with regular rows of the tree-like shrub,

with their millions of jessamine-like flowers--showers down upon

you, as you ride up between the plants, a perfume of the most

delicately delicious description. 'Tis worth going to the West

Indies to see the sight and inhale the perfume."

The decline in the quantities of coffee drawn from the "West Indies to

supply the great demand, is manifest in the following summary of

imports from those islands:--

lbs.

In 1828 they exported about 30,000,000

1831 the imports from British West Indies were 20,017,623

1841 Ditto Ditto 9,904,230

1850, the last year in which distinct accounts 4,262,225

were kept

-----------

Decrease from 1831 15,755,398

_Jamaica_.--The coffee plant was first introduced into Jamaica by Sir

Nicholas Lawes, in 1728, when it was cultivated on an estate called

Temple Hall, in Liguanea, not far from Kingston. In 1752 there were

exported 60,000 lbs.; and in 1775, 44,000 lbs. Until 1788 little

attention was paid to this product. In the four years ending 30th

September, 1794, the average exportation of coffee was 1,603,000 lbs.;

in 1804 it amounted to 22,000,000 lbs.; and during the three years

ending 30th September, 1807, the average annual exportation was more

than 28,500,000 lbs.; which, at £6 per cwt., its cost in Jamaica,

produced more than £1,700,000. It is calculated that £20,000,000 was

invested in coffee estates. The coffee plant thrives in almost every

soil about the mountains of Jamaica, and in the very driest spots has

frequently produced abundant crops. In 1844 there were 671 coffee

plantations in the island. Coffee is grown in the vicinity of the Blue

Mountain Peak at a height of 4,700 feet above the level of the sea,

and some of the finest and most productive plantations are in this

locality. The branches of a coffee tree, on Radnor estate, covered, in

1851, a space of thirteen feet in diameter, and the tree was about

thirteen years old.

In 1789 Hayti exported 77,000,000 lbs. of coffee, but in 1826 it had

declined to 32,000,000 lbs., in 1837 it was 31,000,000 lbs., and the

shipments of this staple are now very inconsiderable.

In the West Indies, I speak principally of Jamaica, where my

experience extended, the soil best adapted for the cultivation of

coffee is found to be loose gravelly or stony. A rich black mould will

produce a luxuriant bush, which will yield little fruit. Decomposing

sandstone, and slate, known in Jamaica as rotten rock, mixed with

vegetable mould, is one of the most favorable soils. The subsoil

should be also carefully examined by a boring augur, for a stiff moist

clay, or marly bottom retentive of moisture, is particularly injurious

to the plant. A dark, rusty-colored sand, or a ferruginous marl on a

substratum of limestone, kills the tree in a few years. In virgin

lands, after the wood has been felled and cleared, the land is lined

off into rows of from six to seven feet square, and at each square a

hole is made about eighteen inches deep, into which the young plant is

placed and the earth plied gently about it, leaving from six to eight

inches of the plant above ground.

Nurseries for raising plants from seeds were formerly made, but for

many years this has been neglected, and plantations are set out now

from suckers which are drawn and trimmed of their roots, and cut about

two feet long.

The young plants require to be kept well clear from weeds, and four

cleanings in the year may be deemed necessary, the plants which have

failed must be supplied in order to ensure uniformity of appearance.

All manure, whether fluid or solid, in warm climates should be applied

in wet seasons, where it is not practicable to dig or turn it in to

prevent the escape of its volatile and nutritive principles.

As respects situation, coffee thrives best on elevated situations,

where the morning sun has most influence; and on lower mountains,

where the temperature is higher, in situations facing the south-east,

or where the sun does not act with such intensity. Low mountains, in

which the thermometer ranges from 75 to 90 degrees Fahr., as well as

those exposed to sea breezes, are less suitable for the cultivation of

coffee than those districts where the temperature averages 65 to 80

degrees Fahr., and situated at higher elevations in the interior.

As a general rule, it may be asserted that the elevation best adapted

for coffee is at an altitude ranging from 2,000 to 4,000 feet, at a

temperature from 70 to 75 degrees Fahr. A west or south-west aspect is

the best, and the field should be well sheltered from the north

breezes. As a general rule in planting in light soils and high

temperatures, trees may be placed at the distance of four or five

feet, while in stronger soils and lower temperatures the average

distance would be from five to seven feet.

_Topping_.--The young tree shoots out its lateral branches at each

joint, which follow in regular succession, till the tree attains the

height of about four feet six inches, when it is usual to top it down

to four feet. But care should be taken that the wood has ripened,

which is known by its assuming a brown and hard appearance, This

strengthens the vegetation of the branches, which begin to throw out

buds, and these shortly form collateral branches; in the course of

eighteen months after the tree will have arrived at its bearing point.

Trees, after being topped, throw off suckers, which are called

gormandizers, from each joint, but more especially at the head. They

should be plucked off with care, but not cut, as the sap would flow

more readily if cut.

In pruning, one of the main objects is the admission of a free

circulation of air and light through the branches to the root of the

tree. No general rules can be laid down for pruning; much must depend

on judgment, experience, and a nice eye to appearance and preservation

of primary branches for bearing and ripening wood for the ensuing

year, as well as to regulate and proportion the size of the tree to

the functions of the roots in supplying sustenance, and the

convenience of picking the berries when ripe. Every old bough which

has seen its day, every wilful shoot growing in a wrong direction,

every fork, every cross branch or dead limb, must be cut away.

_The blossoming, and ripening_ of the fruit varies according to the

situation and temperature of the plantation. In low and hot

situations, where the thermometer ranges from 78 to 90 degrees, the

tree shows its first blossoms when about two-and-a-half years old. In

higher and colder situations the tree will not blossom in profusion

until the fourth or fifth year. If there be light showers, the

blossoms will continue on the tree for a week or more, and by the

setting of the blossoms the planter can determine what germs will

become fruit. The trees will blossom in low situations as early as

March, but the April bloom is considered the most abundant. In higher

elevations, the trees will bloom even so late as August or September.

In warm climates the fruit advances as rapidly, and in a month will

have attained the size of a pea; in more elevated and colder

localities, it will take two months to arrive at this stage. The fruit

will be ripe in from six to eight months after the blossom has set; it

ripens in warm districts about the month of August, while in others

the crop will not be mature till February. An acre will usually

contain 1,200 trees in Jamaica, and the produce would be about 400

lbs. of coffee an acre, or six ounces as the produce of each tree

annually. In some instances, but very seldom, one pound a tree may be

obtained. A bushel of cherry coffee will produce about ten or twelve

pounds of merchantable coffee.

The coffee berry, after being pulped and soaked for a day and night to

free it from the mucilage, is spread out on barbacues to dry; in ten

or twelve days, if the weather has been good, it will be sufficiently

cured for the peeling mill.

Mr. W.H. Marah, of Jamaica, in a Prize Essay on the Cultivation and

Manufacture of Coffee in that Island, published in my "Colonial

Magazine," makes some useful remarks:--

The manufacture of this staple commodity, with a view to its

improvement in quality, is a subject which demands our serious

attention; and when we observe the vast importance and pecuniary

advantage which accrue upon the slightest shade of improvement

either in colour or appearance, it becomes the more imperative on us

to use all those means which are available, in order to place

ourselves on a footing with the foreign grower. It is true that we

are unable to enter the contest with the East Indian or slave

cultivator, from the abundance and cheapness of labour which is

placed at their command; but by means of our skill and assiduity, we

can successfully compete with them by the manufacture of superior

produce.

To this portion of plantation management I have given an attentive

inquiry, and shall shortly proceed to state my views on the system

best adapted to the curing and preparing for market of good quality

produce.

The fruit should be gathered in when in a blood-ripe state, to all

appearance like cherries. The labourers are principally accustomed

to reap the crop in baskets, of which they carry two to the field;

and when the coffee is bearing heavily, and is at its full stage of

ripeness, the good pickers will gather in four bushels _per diem_,

and carry the same on their heads to the works.

The fruit is then measured and thrown into a loft above the pulper

in a heap. It should be submitted to the first process of machinery,

the pulper, within twenty-four hours after, if not immediately; but

it not unfrequently happens that the manager is unable to pulp his

coffee for two and sometimes three days, by which time fermentation

ensues, and it becomes impossible after pulping to wash off the

mucilage, which rather adheres to the outer envelope of the berry,

and gives the produce what is termed a "red" or "blanketty"

appearance when spread out on the barbacues. The produce is let down

by means of a small hole cut into the floor of the loft, or a

floating box, into the hopper of the pulper, and by means of a

grater forcing the fruit against the chops, the berries are

dislodged from the pulp and fall upon a sieve, which being shaken by

the machinery, lets the berries fall into the cistern, whilst the

grater catches the pulp and carries it backwards at each evolution

of the roller, around which it is encircled.

The fruit which might have passed through without being more than

half squeezed, and having only ejected one berry, is then returned

(after being shaken off by the sieve) into the hopper, to undergo

the process a second time. The pulped coffee is then permitted to

remain in the cistern for a day and a night, during which period it

undergoes a process of fermentation; it is then washed out in two or

three waters, and the whole of the mucilaginous stuff which had

risen from the berry by the fermentation is entirely washed off, and

the coffee presents a beautiful white appearance. From this the

produce is turned out to drain on a barbacue, sloped so as to throw

all the water to the centre, where a drain is placed to carry it all

off.

In an hour or so after, the coffee may be removed to the barbacues

for curing; it is there spread out thinly and exposed to the sun,

which, if shining strong, will in eight or nine hours absorb all the

water, and the coffee be fit for housing that day. I say fit for

housing, because I have repeatedly seen coffee washed out early in

the morning and put up the same evening. I cannot say I approve of

the system, though in fine weather it has been attended with

success. From the time the coffee is first exposed to the sun till

the silver skin starts, is the stage, in my opinion, during which

the produce suffers most injury. In the first instance, it should be

kept constantly turned, in order to get the water absorbed as early

as possible; and after it has been housed, the greatest precaution

should be taken to prevent its heating: and it is for this reason

that I disapprove of early housing, for if wet weather should

intervene, and the coffee cannot be turned out, it is sure to get

heated. From this neglect I have seen a perfect steam issuing from

the house in the morning when the doors have been opened; and I have

known, as a natural consequence, the adhesion of the silver skin to

the berry so firm, that it could not be removed by a sharp penknife

without slicing the berry.

In a succession of wet weather the produce has remained on the

barbacues for several weeks, without the slightest advance in

curing; and, unless it be frequently turned while in this wet

state, it is sure to germinate; the berries first swell, then a thin

white spire issues from the seam, and on opening the berry the young

leaves will be actually seen formed inside, so rapid is the course

of vegetation.

I am of opinion that coffee should not be housed till the silver

skin begins to start, when no danger can ensue; for if a few wet

days should intervene, by turning the coffee over in the house, and

allowing a current of air to pass through it, it will keep for

weeks. It is at this stage that the parchment skin begins to show

itself, for at first it adheres to the inner kernel, but the heat of

the sun starts it from its hold and it separates; thus, on shaking a

handful of the produce it will be heard to rattle, a sure indication

that the silver skin has risen from the bean, without even threshing

it to ascertain the fact. The bean is perfectly white till the

silver skin starts; it then begins gradually to assume the dark, or

what is called the half-cured appearance. A good day's strong sun

will then half cure it, and by subsequent exposure the produce takes

another stage, and gradually loses the half-cured, and assumes a

blue colour; and when the produce is properly cured and fit for the

mill, not the slightest dark spot will be perceptible in the bean,

but it will exhibit a horny blue colour.

It is within my observation that coffee has been gathered from the

field on the Monday, and prepared for market on the Saturday, in a

spell of dry weather; but I have known it also to lie on the

barbacues for as many weeks in contrary weather, before it had gone

through the same ordeal. With good weather and smooth terraces

whereon to cure, nothing but gross ignorance and unpardonable

carelessness can produce a bad quality of coffee. The difficulty

arises in wet weather, when one's skill and assiduity is called into

action to save the produce from being spoiled. After coffee has been

half-cured, the putting it up hot at an early period of the day has

the effect of curing it all night. I have noticed produce housed in

this manner, and requiring another day's exposure to fit it for the

mill, found perfectly cured next morning.

The barbacues should be kept in good order--all ruts and holes

neatly patched every crop, for to them and other roughnesses is to

be attributed the peeling of the berries, their being scratched, and

various injuries which the produce sustains. And while on the

subject of "Works," I cannot help noticing the extreme carelessness

and inattention which, on visiting properties, the works and

buildings present to our view. It is utterly impossible to

manufacture good produce unless the machinery and buildings are kept

in good order; and the parsimony which is thus displayed in this

necessary outlay is fallacious, when one thinks of the result of one

or two shillings per 100 lbs. lost on a crop through this neglect.

When the coffee is perfectly cured--which is generally ascertained

by threshing out a few berries in one's hands, and seeing if it has

attained its horny blue colour--it is then fit for milling, which is

the second process of machinery which it has to undergo. Here the

parchment and silver skins are dislodged from the berry, by means of

the friction of a large roller passing over the produce in a wooden

trough. It is then taken out of the trough, and submitted to the

fanner or winnowing machine, when the trash is all blown away, and

the coffee, passing through two or three sieves, comes away

perfectly clean and partially sized. From this it is again sieved in

order to size it properly, hand-picked, put into bags, and sent on

mules' backs to the wharf. It is then put into tierces and sold in

the Kingston market, or shipped to Britain.

A variety of circumstances tend to injure the quality of the coffee,

which it is beyond human agency to control. Dry weather intervening

at the particular period when the berry is getting full, subjects it

to be stinted and shrivelled; and strong dry breezes happening at

the same period, will cause an adhesion of the silver skin which the

ordinary process of curing and manufacture will not remove. Late

discoveries in the latter have, however, shown the possibility of

divesting the produce of that silvery appearance, when brought about

under the foregoing circumstances. It is almost, unnecessary to

state that this improvement in manufacture refers to the inventions

of Messrs. Myers and Meacock, whose respective merits have already

undergone public revision. In reference to Mr. Myers' plan of

immersing coffee in warm water, I may be allowed to state that it

has come under my own observation, that produce which had previously

been heated through some carelessness in the curing, subsequently

was exposed to a slight sprinkling of rain, and when ground out and

fanned, was found to have lost its silvery appearance.

To the invention of Mr. Meacock, a preference has, however, been

given, in consequence of the impression that the produce thus

immersed in water will absorb a portion of the liquid, which will

deteriorate its quality in its passage across the Atlantic. Several

gentlemen have shipped coffee submitted to this process to England,

but I have not learnt the result.

It appears very manifest that a great deal might be done in the way

of machinery, to relieve produce of that silvery or foxy appearance

which is so prejudicial to its value in the British market, and

which appearances might accrue from a variety of incidents to which

all plantations are more or less subject.

A manifest preference is given in the leading European markets to

coffee which has gone through the pulping and washing process; but,

strange to say, the consumers of this beverage are totally ignorant

of the fact, that the produce which is cured in the pulp furnishes a

stronger decoction than an equal quantity of the same which has

undergone the other process. Many persons are of opinion that the

mucilaginous substance which is washed off in pulping is absorbed by

the bean when cured in the pulp, and which gives strength to the

produce and enhances its aromatic flavour. On most properties it has

been customary to cure the remnants of the crop in this way, for the

use of the plantation; and it has been well noticed by great

epicures in the flavour of the decoction, that the coffee thus cured

produced the strongest and best beverage."

_Trinidad_.--The coffee plant does not succeed well in Trinidad, the

tree giving but little fruit, and perishing at the end of ten or

twelve years; though the article is always of a superior quality, and

has the advantage over that of Martinique and the other Antilles of

not requiring age to produce an agreeable beverage. It is from the

fault and obstinate attachment to old habits of the planters, that

this cultivation has not been more successful in Trinidad. Because

coffee trees thrive in St. Domingo, Guadalupe, Dominica, St. Lucia and

Martinique, on the hills, they had concluded that it would be the same

in Trinidad; without noticing that the hills of that island are

composed only of schistus covered with gravel, on which lies a light

layer of vegetative earth, that the rain washes away after some years

of cultivation; whilst the hills of the Antilles, much more high and

cool, are covered with a deep bed of earth, which is retained by

enormous blocks of stone, that at the same time maintain humidity and

freshness.

Messrs. Branbrun, of Tacarigua, and Don Juan de Arestimuno, of

Cariaco, worthy and intelligent planters, some years ago adopted the

plan of planting coffee trees on the plains, in the manner cacao trees

are planted, that is, in the shade of the _Erythrina_, and this mode

of cultivation has perfectly succeeded. It is to be hoped that their

success will encourage the cultivation of this valuable tree in the

united provinces of Venezuela, and in those parts of Trinidad which

were deemed unfavorable to it from the too great dryness of the

climate.

In 1796, the year preceding its capture, there were 130 coffee

plantations in Trinidad, which produced 330,000 lbs. of coffee. In

1802, the produce had slightly increased to 358,660 lbs., but there

were two plantations less.

In the island of Grenada, according to the returns made to the local

Treasury of the staple products raised, while there were 64,654 lbs.

made-in 1829, the quantity had decreased to 13,651 lbs. in 1837.

The colony of British Guiana was formerly noted for its produce of

coffee. The following figures mark the decline of the culture of this

staple, showing the exports in Dutch pounds:--

Demerara and Essequibo. Berbice.

1834 1,102,200 1,429,800

1835 1,299,080 1,979,850

1836 2,117,250 2,684,100

1837 1,849,650 2,217,300

1838 2,486,240 1,700,550

1839 747,450 1,255,800

1840 1,531,350 1,825,950

1841 568,920 519,750

1842 1,372,650 804,470

1843 428,800 999,300

1844 716,137 774,600

Thus the exports of the colony which in 1836 were 4,801,350 lbs. had

declined in 1844 to 1,490,737; whilst in 1831 we received from British

Guiana 3,576,754 lbs. of coffee, in 1850 we only received 8,472 lbs.

There are about 500 acres under cultivation with coffee in St. Lucia.

The exports, which in 1840 were 323,820 lbs., had declined, in 1844,

to 58,834 lbs.

The British West Indies exported to Great Britain, in 1829 and 1850,

the following quantities of coffee:--

1829. 1850.

lbs. lbs.

Jamaica 18,690,654 4,156,210

Demerara 4,680,118 17,774

Berbice 2,482,898 698

Trinidad 73,667 96,376

Dominica 942,114 792

St. Lucia 303,499 35

_Cuba_.--For the following valuable remarks and details of coffee

culture in Cuba, I am indebted to Dr. Turnbulls "Travels in the

West:"--

At the period of the breaking out of the French revolution, the

cultivation of coffee could scarcely be said to have reached the

South American continent; so that till that its cultivation was in a

great measure confined to Arabia and the Caribbean Archipelago. Its

extreme scarcity during the war enhanced its price so enormously,

that on the first announcement of peace in 1814, the plants were

multiplied to infinity, and coffee plantations were formed in every

possible situation--on the Coste Firme of South America, along the

Brazilian shores of that continent, and even at some points on the

coast of Southern Africa. To show the extreme rapidity with which

the cultivation has been extended, take the statistical returns of

La Guayra, the chief port of the State of Venezuela, from whence the

whole export of coffee in the year 1789 was not more than ten tons;

and of late years from that port alone, and in spite of the internal

disunions of the country, it has reached the enormous quantity of

2,500 tons. In the Isle of Bourbon (now Reunion), and the Mauritius

and Ceylon, the planters have also applied themselves to this branch

of industry; it has been prosecuted successfully in our Eastern

Possessions, and the French government, not content with the

natural influence of the universal demand for it, have been

endeavouring to stimulate the production by means of premiums and

other artificial advantages.

In forming a coffee plantation, the choice of situation and soil

becomes a consideration of the first importance. A very high

temperature is by no means a favourable condition. If a spot could

be found where the range of the Fahrenheit thermometer did not sink

below 75 degrees, nor rise above 80 degrees, and where the soil was

otherwise suitable, no planter could desire a more favourable

situation. In the mountainous islands of Jamaica and St. Domingo,

the nearest approach to this temperature is found where the

elevation is not less than 2,000, and not more than 3,000 feet above

the level of the sea; and it is most successfully cultivated in the

two islands I have named. The Island of Cuba being much less

mountainous, but at the same time being nearer the tropical limit,

the planter in seeking the degree of heat he requires is forced to

confine himself in a great measure to the northern side of the

island, where, accordingly, we find that the cultivation of coffee

is most successfully carried on.

The vicinity of the _cafetal_ to a convenient place of embarcation,

enters largely, of course, into the consideration of the planter

when choosing a suitable locality. A compact form is also thought

desirable, in order to save the time and labour of the negroes; and

the ordinary extent is about six caballerias, or something less than

200 English acres.

The locality being finally chosen, such open places are formed or

selected, from distance to distance, as may be found most suitable,

in respect to shade and moisture, for the establishment of

convenient nurseries. The fruit which has been gathered in the

beginning of the month of October, and which has been dried in the

shade, is preferred for seed. The seed is sown in drills half a yard

asunder, and introduced, two beans together, by means of a dibble,

into holes two inches deep and ten or twelve inches apart. The

extent of one of these nurseries is generally about 100 yards

square, which, with such intervals as I have mentioned, ought to

contain about 60,000 plants.

A quarter of a _caballeria_, or about eight English acres, is

visually set apart, in a central and convenient position, for the

site of the buildings, and for growing provisions for the use of the

labourers on the future plantation. In favourable seasons it is

found that heavier crops are obtained from coffee trees left wholly

unshaded; but, in the average of two years, it seems to be settled,

in the island of Cuba at least, that a moderate degree of protection

from the scorching rays of the sun produces a steadier, and, upon

the whole, a more advantageous return.

The distribution of the land into right-angled sections, and the

planting of the trees in straight lines, is so contrived as to

favour the future supervision of the labourers much more than from

any strict attention to mere symmetry. The distance of the trees

from each other ought to be regulated by the quality of the soil,

and the degrees of heat and shade they are to enjoy. The ranges from

north to south are usually four yards apart, and those from east to

west not more than three; but the lower the temperature the wider

should be the interval, because in that case the vegetation is more

active and more rapid, and the tree requires a wider space over

which to extend itself.

The best season for planting the trees is the middle of the month of

May, if there be then a sufficient degree of moisture; but the

operation is often performed successfully during the rainy month of

October; subject always to the risk, however, of serious injury to

the young plantation from the north winds which prevail at that

advanced season of the year. The holes prepared to receive the

plants are eighteen inches in diameter, and about two feet deep.

In the island of Cuba there are two rival modes of planting the

coffee tree. The one is called "la siembra à la mota;" the other "la

siembra à la estaca."

By the method "a la mota," a circle is formed around the plant in

the nursery, and care is taken to remove it without disturbing the

earth around the roots. The plants are then placed carefully in

willow baskets, prepared for the purpose, and carried to the holes

already opened for their reception; gathering up the earth around

the stem, and pressing it carefully down with the foot, in such a

manner as to form a basin or filter for the reception of the

rain-water, and for suffering it to percolate among the roots, and

also to provide a convenient place of deposit for the subsequent

application of manure.

The "siembra à la estaca" is differently executed. Such plants are

selected from the nursery as are of the thickness of the little

finger, or from that to an inch in diameter. In withdrawing them

from the ground, great care is taken not to injure or compress the

bulbs or buttons within, eight or ten inches of the level of the

soil, because these are to serve for the production of fresh roots

when the "estaca" is afterwards planted more deeply in its permanent

position. The greater part of the capillary roots are cut away with

a knife; but a few, together with the principal root, are suffered

to remain from four to six inches long. In planting them, from three

to four inches of the trunk are left above ground. The little basin

of earth for the reception and filtration of the rain-water, is not

so large in the stake system of planting as in that with the clod of

earth "à la mota;" but if the soil be poor, it must be

proportionably enlarged to admit the application of the necessary

quantity of manure.

The stake system, requiring much less labour than the other, is

generally preferred; but when there is abundance of shade to protect

the young plant from drought, and always, of course, in replacing

the decayed trees of an old plantation, it is considered more

desirable to remove the whole plant, its roots and branches entire,

with as much as possible of the adhering soil from the nursery,

according to the system "à la mota."

In the third or fourth year of the plantation, the trees, according

to the best system of husbandry, are pruned down to the height of

three feet from the ground on the richest soil, and still lower in

proportion to its sterility. All the branches which are not as

nearly as possible at right angles with the trunk, are likewise

removed by the pruning-knife, so that in the following spring the

whole stem is covered with fresh shoots. By this operation the power

of nature seems to be exhausted, as for that year the trees in

general bear no fruit; but in subsequent seasons the loss is amply

repaid by a crop often greater than the branches can support, or

than the flow of nourishment is always able to bring to full size

and maturity.

The machinery for removing the external pulp of the coffee-bean is

seldom of a very perfect description in this island, and the loss

sustained in consequence is often very considerable. It is almost

uniformly moved by the power of horses or oxen, working in a gin,

and the name it bears is that of the _Descerecador_. The Barbecues,

when the coffee is laid out to dry, are called indiscriminately

_Tendales_ or _Secadores_. They are more numerous and of smaller

dimensions than is customary in the British colonies, where a single

barbecue, laid down with tiles or plaster, is considered sufficient

for a whole estate.

The warehouse for receiving the crop and preserving the coffee after

it is put into bags and ready for the market, is generally of such

limited dimensions as to be barely sufficient for the purposes for

which it is designed; so that, when the harvest has been abundant,

or when anything has occurred to interfere with the despatch of what

is ready for removal, the constant accumulation is attended with

serious inconvenience. In fact, the occupation of the coffee planter

has been for some time on the decline in the island, owing to the

superior rate of profit derived from the making of sugar; and

everything reminds you of it, the _moleno de pilar_, the

_aventador_, and the _separador_, down to the humblest implement of

husbandry on the estate.

The gathering of the fruit commences in Cuba in August; but November

and December are the most active and important months of the

harvests. The labourers are sent out with two baskets each, one

large, the other small. Every labourer has a file of coffee trees

assigned to him; the large basket he leaves near the place where his

work is to begin; the other he carries with him to receive the

berries from the trees; and as often as it is full he empties it

into the large one. The baskets are made of rushes, willows, or

bamboo; and the large one is of such a size that three of them ought

to fill the barrel, without top or bottom, which serves the purposes

of a measure at the _Tendal_ or Secador.

Three baskets, or one barrel-measure, of the newly-gathered coffee

berry, ought to produce thirty pounds after the process of drying,

the removal of the pulp, and the final preparation for the market.

When there is a sufficient number, or a sufficient space of

Barbecues or Secadors, sixty or seventy barrels only are put

together; but from want of room it often happens that the quantity

amounts to a hundred barrels. In either case, the whole is gathered

into two great heaps, and in this state it is allowed to remain for

four-and-twenty hours, in order to subject it to a certain degree of

fermentation. After this, it is spread out to dry over the whole

surface of the Barbecue, and until it is sufficiently so, it remains

there uncovered day and night. When the dessication is found to be

far enough advanced, it is no longer exposed during the night; nor

even during the day, if the weather be damp or unfavorable. The

subsequent operations are certainly not better, probably not so

well, conducted as in our own West India possessions.

In the fourth year, it is presumed that the agricultural produce of

the land, and the first returns of coffee, should be sufficient to

meet all the current expenses. At the end of the fifth year there

ought to be forty thousand coffee trees four years old on the

estate, 60,000 of three years, and 100,000 of two and one year, the

produce of which ought to be at least 400 quintals, which, at a

moderate estimate, should be worth 2,400 dollars. Thus the

calculation goes on until we arrive at the end of the seventh year,

when the estate ought to be in full bearing. The returns are

estimated at 3,000 arrobas, or 750 quintals, which, at eight dollars

per quintal delivered free on board, make 6,000 dollars. The minor

products of the estate, such as Indian corn, pigs, and oil, are

given at 1,130 dollars, making the gross returns 7,130 dollars; and,

after deducting the annual expenses, leaving 5,300 dollars as the

regular return on the capital invested, which, having been about

40,000 dollars, gives about thirteen per cent.; not certainly to be

considered extravagant in a country where twelve per cent, is the

regular rate of interest. The produce of coffee from each section is

given at 400 arrobas, or 3,500 arrobas for the whole of the nine

sections. The average price of coffee, free of the expense of

carriage, is assumed to be two dollars the arroba, or eight dollars

per quintal, which would give a return of 7,200 dollars, besides the

repayment of the rent by the colonists.

The cultivation of coffee has been falling off in Cuba for several

years past, the crops it is asserted being too precarious there, and

the prices too low to encourage the continuance of planting. On the

northern side of the island is where this decrease is most

perceptible, several of the largest estates having been converted to

the growth of sugar and tobacco, others abandoned to serve as pasture

fields, and the very few remaining yielding less and less every year.

Henceforward the culture of this berry here is likely to be very

insignificant, and not many years will elapse before the amount

produced will merely suffice for the local consumption. About St. Jago

de Cuba the cultivation is more attended to, the article forming still

their principal export. Taking five quinquennial periods, the

following figures show the average annual exports of coffee:--

arrobas.

1826 to 1830 1,718,865

1830 " 1835 1,995,832

1835 " 1840 1,877,646

1841 " 1846 1,887,444

1846 " 1851 768,244

The better to exhibit the decrease of production throughout the

island, I may state that the export from 1839 to 1841 inclusive, was

in the aggregate 1,332,221 quintals; 1842 to 1844, inclusive, was in

the aggregate 1,217,666 quintals; 1845 to 1847, inclusive, was in the

aggregate but 583,208 quintals. The exports of coffee for the whole

island, were, in 1840, 2,197,771 arrobas; in 1841, 1,260,920½ arrobas.

In 1847 there were 2,064 plantations under cultivation with coffee in

Cuba, in 1846 there were only 1,670. The production of 1849 was

1,470,754 arrobas, valued at 2,206,131 dollars. From the year 1841 to

1846, the average yearly production was 45,236,100 lbs.; but from 1846

to 1851, it was only 19,206,100 lbs.; showing a falling off of 72 per

cent.; the production still further decreased in 1851, it being only

13,004,350 lbs., or 1.52 per cent. less than the preceding year. This

enormous decline in the production of coffee has been caused by the

low price of the article in the markets of Europe and the United

States, coupled with the more remunerative price of sugar, during the

same period; causing capitalists rather to invest money in the

formation of new sugar estates. As a consequence, many coffee

plantations have been turned into cane cultivation; or, being

abandoned, the slaves attached thereto were sold or leased to sugar

planters.

The following is private information from a correspondent:--

"We generally plant about 200,000 trees within a space of 500 feet,

choosing the strongest soil. I have adopted a different system from

the one generally in use here, for they usually plant the trees too

near each other. I find by giving them space and air, that the plant

develops itself and yields more beans. It is very important to

protect the trees from the rays of the sun, for which purpose I

plant bananas at intermediate rows; their broad leaves, like

parasols, shed a delightful shade round the coffee plant, and tend

to accumulate the moisture which strengthens the roots of the young

tree.

When the tree is about two years old the top branches are lopped off

for the purpose of throwing the sap into the bean. Some planters cut

the trees so short, that they do not allow them to stand more than

five or six feet above the ground; but I allow mine to attain

greater height prior to lopping them, whereby they produce larger

crops. Nor do I allow my negroes to beat the trees, or force them to

pluck a certain quantity a day, for I discovered that they picked

the ripe and unripe beans indiscriminately--frequently injuring the

trees. I only allow them to shake the tree, and pick up the beans

that have fallen during the night."

Coffee exports from the ports of Havana and Matanzas, in Cuba, for the

years ending December in

Quintals.

1839 344,725

1840 402,135

1841 212,767

1842 314,191

1843 223,265

1844 186,349

1845 42,409

1846 65,045

1847 106,904

1848 31,674

1849 92,974

1852 42,510

Porto Rico exported 85,384 cwt. of coffee in 1839.

_Africa_.--Coffee will require some four years to grow before it will

give to the cultivator any income, but it should be known that after

that time the tree, with little or no labor bestowed on it, will yield

two crops a year. The quality of coffee grown in the republic of

Liberia, on the western coast of Africa, is pronounced by competent

judges to be equal to any in the world. In numerous instances, trees

full of coffee, are seen at only three years old. 214 casks and bags

of coffee were imported from the western coast of Africa in 1846.

Coffee, it has been proved, can be cultivated with great ease to any

extent in the republic of Liberia, being indigenous to the soil, and

found in great abundance. It bears fruit from thirty to forty years,

and yields 10 lbs. to the shrub yearly! A single tree in the garden of

Colonel Hicks, a colonist at Monrovia, is said to have yielded the

enormous quantity of 16 lbs. at one gathering. Judge Benson, in 1850,

had brought 25 acres under cultivation, and many others had also

devoted themselves to raising coffee. It was estimated there were

about 30,000 coffee trees planted in one of the counties, that of

Grand Bassa, and the quality of the produce was stated to be equal to

the best Java.

About the villages and settlements of the Sherbro river, and Sierra

Leone, wild coffee-trees are very abundant. In several parts of the

interior, the natives make use of the shrub to fence their

plantations.

Coffee has been successfully grown at St. Helena, of an excellent

quality, and might be made an article of export.

Portugal sent to the Great Exhibition, in 1851, a very valuable series

of coffees from many of her colonies; of ordinary description from St.

Thomas; tolerably good from the Cape de Verd islands; bad from Timor;

worse (but curious from the very small size of the berry) from

Mozambique; good from Angola; and excellent from Madeira.

Aden, alias Mocha coffee, is, along with the other coffees of the Red

Sea, sent first to Bombay by Arab ships, where it is "garbelled," or

picked, previously to its being exported to England.

An excellent sample of coffee, apparently of the Barbera (Abyssinia)

variety, was contributed to the Great Exhibition from Norfolk Island.

It was of good color, well adapted for roasting, and a most desirable

novelty from that quarter.

Dr. Gardner, of Ceylon, has taken out a patent for preparing the

coffee leaf in a manner to afford a beverage like tea, that is by

infusion, "forming an agreeable refreshing and nutritive article of

diet." An infusion of the coffee-leaf has long been an article of

universal consumption amongst the natives of parts of Sumatra;

wherever the coffee is grown, the leaf has become one of the

necessaries of life, which the natives regard as indispensable.

The coffee-plant, in a congenial soil and climate, exhibits great

luxuriance in its foliage, throwing out abundance of suckers and

lateral stems, especially when from any cause the main stem is thrown

out of the perpendicular, to which it is very liable from its great

superincumbent weight compared with the hold of its root in the

ground. The native planters, availing themselves of this propensity,

often give this plant a considerable inclination, not only to increase

the foliage, but to obtain new fruit-bearing stems, when the old ones

become unproductive. It is also found desirable to limit the height of

the plant by lopping off the top to increase the produce, and

facilitate the collecting it, and fresh sprouts in abundance are the

certain consequence. These are so many causes of the development of a

vegetation, which becomes injurious to the quantity of the fruit or

berry unless removed; and when this superabundant foliage can be

converted into an article of consumption, as hitherto the case in

Sumatra, the culture must become the more profitable; and it is

clearly the interest of the planters of Ceylon to respond to the call

of Dr. Gardner, and by supplying the leaf on reasonable terms, to

assist in creating a demand for an article they have in abundance, and

which for the want of that demand is of no value to them. It ought to

be mentioned also, that the leaves which become ripe and yellow on the

tree and fall off in the course of nature, contain the largest portion

of extract, and make the richest infusion; and I have no doubt, should

the coffee leaf ever come into general use, the ripe leaf will be

collected with as much care as the ripe fruit.

The mode of the preparation by the natives is this. The ends of the

branches and suckers, with the leaves on; are taken from the tree and

broken into lengths of from twelve to eighteen inches. These are

arranged in the split of a stick or small bamboo, side by side,

forming a truss in such a manner, that the leaves all appear on one

side, and the stalk on the other, the object of which is to secure

equal roasting, the stalks being thus exposed to the fire together,

and the leaves together. The slit being tied up in two or three

places, and a part of the stick or bamboo left as a handle, the truss

is held over a fire without smoke, and kept moving about, so as to

roast the whole equally, without burning, on the success of which

operation the quality and flavor of the article must depend. When

successfully roasted, the raw vegetable taste is entirely dissipated,

which is not the ease if insufficiently done. When singed or overdone,

the extract is destroyed and the aroma lost. When the fire is smoky,

the flavor varies with the nature of the smoke. The stalks are roasted

equally with the leaves, and are said to add fully as much to the

strength of the infusion. By roasting the whole becomes brittle, and

is reduced to a coarse powder by rubbing between the hands. In this

state it is ready for use, and the general mode of preparing the

beverage is by infusion, as in the case of common tea.

That it would soon become a most valuable article of diet amongst the

laboring classes, and on ship board particularly, if, once brought

into use, there can be no doubt. The coffee-tree can be grown to

advantage for the leaf in the lowlands of every tropical country,

where the soil is sufficiently fertile, whilst it requires a different

soil and climate to produce the fruit[7]. Dr. Hooker, in the Jury

Reports, observes upon the prepared coffee leaves, submitted by Dr.

Gardner, of Ceylon, to be used as tea leaves, that they are worthy of

notice as affording a really palatable drink when infused as tea is;

more so, perhaps, than coffee is to the uninitiated. That this

preparation contains a considerable amount of the nutritious

principles of coffee, is evident from the analysis; but as the leaves

can only be collected in a good state at the expense of the coffee

bush, it is doubtful whether the coffee produced by the berries be

not, after all, the cheapest, as it certainly is the best.

TEA.

The immense traffic in the produce of this simple shrub, the growth of

a remarkable country, hitherto almost entirely isolated from the

western nations, is one of the most remarkable illustrations of the

enterprise and energy of modern commerce. The trade in tea now gives

employment to upwards of 60,000 tons of British shipping, and about

ten millions sterling of English capital, producing a revenue to this

country of nearly six millions sterling.

Every reflecting man will admit that articles of such vast consumption

as tea and coffee (amounting together to more than 343,500 tons

annually), forming the chief liquid food of whole nations, must

exercise a great influence upon the health of the people.

There is scarcely any country in the world in which a dietetic drink

or beverage resembling tea, is not prepared, and in general use, from

some exotic or indigenous shrub. The two chief plants laid under

contribution are, however, the Chinese tea-plant, and a species of

holly peculiar to South America, producing the Paraguay tea. _Astoria

theiformis_ is used at Santa Fe as tea. The leaves of _Canothus

Americanus_, an astringent herb, have been used as a substitute, under

the name of New Jersey tea.

It has been a matter of surprise why tea should be so much sought

after by the poorer classes, since by many it is looked on more as a

luxury than of use to the human system. The manner in which it acts,

and the cause why it is so much in demand by all classes, is

satisfactorily explained by Liebig; and the benefit, therefore, which

will be conferred by selling it at a low rate, and thus placing it

within the means of all, has at last come to be duly appreciated.

Liebig says, without entering minutely into the medical action of

caffeine, theine, &c., it will surely appear a most striking fact,

even if we were to deny its influence on the process of secretion,

that the substance, with the addition of oxygen and the elements of

water, can yield taurine, the nitrogenised compound peculiar to

bile:--

Carbon. Nitrogen. Hydrogen. Oxygen.

1 atom caffeine or theine = 8 2 5 2

9 atoms water = -- -- 9 9

9 atoms oxygen = -- -- -- 9

__ __ __ __

= 2 atoms taurine 8 2 14 20

= 2 4 9 10

To see how the action of caffeine, theobromine, theine, &c., may be

explained, we must call to mind that the chief constituent of the

bile contains only 3.8 per cent. of nitrogen, of which only the half,

or 1.9 per cent., belongs to the taurine; bile contains, in its

natural state, water and solid matter, in the proportion of ninety

parts by weight of the former, to ten of the latter. If we suppose

these ten parts, by weight of solid matter, to be chloric acid, with

3.87 per cent. of nitrogen, then 100 parts of theine would contain

0.171 of nitrogen in the shape of taurine. Now this quantity is

contained in 0.6 parts of theine, or 2 grains 8/10ths of theine can

give to an ounce of bile the nitrogen it contains in the form of

taurine.

Although an infusion of tea contains no more than the one-tenth of a

grain of theine, still, if it contribute in point of fact to the

formation of bile, the action even of such a quantity cannot be looked

upon as a nullity. Neither can it be denied, that in the case of an

excess of non-azotised food, and a deficiency of motion, which is

required to cause the change of matter of the tissues, and thus to

yield the nitrogenised product which enters into the composition of

the bile, that in such a condition the health may be benefited by the

use of compounds which are capable of supplying the place of the

nitrogenised substances produced in the healthy state of the body, and

essential to the production of an important element of inspiration. In

a chronical sense, and it is this alone which the preceding remarks

are intended to show, caffeine, or theine, &c., are, in virtue of

their composition, better adapted to this purpose than all

nitrogenised vegetable principles. The action of these substances in

ordinary circumstances is not obvious, but it unquestionably exists.

Tea and coffee were originally met with among nations whose diet was

chiefly vegetable.

Considerable discussion has taken place regarding the tea plants; some

say that there is only one species; others that there are two or

three. Mr. Fortune, who visited the tea districts of Canton, Fokien,

and Chekiang, asserts that the black and green teas of the northern

districts of China are obtained from the same species or variety,

known under the name of _Thea Bohea_. Some make the Assam tea a

different species, and thus recognise three: _T. Cantoniensis_ or

_Bohea_, _T. Viridis_, and _T. Assamica_. The quality of the tea

depends much on the season when the leaves are picked, the mode in

which it is prepared, as well as the district in which it grows. The

green teas include Twankay, Young Hyson, Hyson, Gunpowder, and

Imperial; while the black comprise Bohea, Congou, Souchong, Oolong,

and Pekoe. The teas of certain districts, such as Anhoi, have peculiar

characters.

The first tea imported into England was a package of two pounds, by

the East India Company, in 1664, as a present to the king; in 1667,

another small importation took place, from the company's factory at

Bantam. The directors ordered their servants to "send home by their

ships 100 pounds weight of the best _tey_ they could get." In 1678

were imported 4,713 lbs.; but in the six following years the entire

imports amounted to no more than 410 lbs. According to Milburn's

"Oriental Commerce," the consumption in 1711 was 141,995 lbs.; 120,595

lbs. in 1715, and 237,904 lbs. in 1720. In 1745 the amount was 730,729

lbs. For above a century and a half, the sole object of the East India

Company's trade with China was to provide tea for the consumption of

the United Kingdom. The company had the exclusive trade, and were

bound to send orders for tea, and to provide ships to import the same,

and always to have a year's consumption in their warehouses. The teas

were disposed of in London, where only they could be imported, at

quarterly sales. The act of 1834, however, threw open the trade to

China.

From a Parliamentary return, showing the quantity of tea retained for

home consumption in the United Kingdom, in each year, from 1740 to the

termination of the East India Company's sales, and thence to the

present time, it appears that in 1740, 1,493,695 lbs. of tea were

retained for home consumption. Two years afterwards, the quantity fell

to 473,868 lbs., and in 1767 only 215,019 lbs. were retained. Next

year the amount increased to 3,155,417 lbs.; in 1769 it was 9,114,854

lbs.; in 1795, 21,342,845 lbs.; in 1836, 49,842,236 lbs.

The return in question also specifies the quantity of the various

kinds of tea, with the average sale prices.

According to the annual tea reports of Messrs. W.J. Thompson and Son,

and Messrs. W.E. Franks and Son, the total imports of tea during the

last fifteen years were as follows, reckoned in millions of lbs.:--

Years. Black. Green. Total. Home Consumption.

1838 26,786 8,215 35,001 36,415

1839 30,644 7,680 38,324 36,351

1840 21,063 7,161 28,224 31,716

1841 24,915 6,303 31,218 36,811

1842 31,915 9,729 41,644 37,554

1843 39,513 7,340 46,853 39,902

1844 39,644 8,749 48,393 41,176

1845 39,518 11,790 51,338 44,127

1846 44,017 12,486 55,503 47,534

1847 46,887 8,368 55,255 46,247

1848 37,512 7,611 45,123 48,431

1849 43,234 9,156 52,400 50,100

1850 39,873 8,427 48,300 51,000

1851 62,369 9,131 71,500 54,000

1852 55,525 9,175 64,700 54,724

The duty on tea was gradually raised from 9d. per lb. in 1787 to 3s. a

lb. in 1806. It was 2s. 2d. per lb. until May, 1852, when 4d. per lb.

was taken off, and further annual reductions are to be made. Down to

the year 1834 the duty was an _ad valorem_ one of 96 per cent. on all

teas sold under 2s. a lb., and of 100 per cent. on all that were sold

at or above 2s., charged on the prices which they brought at the East

India Company's sales. The _ad valorem_ duties ceased on the 22nd of

April, 1834, and under the act 3 and 4 William IV. c. 100, all tea

imported into the United Kingdom for home consumption was charged

with a customs as follows:--

Bohea 1s. 6d. per lb.

Congou, twankay, hyson skin, orange

pekoe, and campoi 2 2 "

Souchong, flowery pekoe, hyson, young

hyson, gunpowder, imperial, and

other teas not enumerated 3 0 "

In 1836, the uniform duty of 2s. 1d. per lb. on all descriptions of

tea was imposed, which, with the additional 5 per cent, imposed in

1840, made the total duty levied per lb. 2s. 2d. and a fraction.

The Commercial Products of the Vegetable Kingdom Considered in Their Various Uses to Man and in Their Relation to the Arts and Manufactures; Forming a Practical Treatise & Handbook of Reference for the Colonist, Manufacturer, Merchant, and Consumer, on the Cultivation, Preparation for Shipment, and Commercial Value, &c. of the Various Substances Obtained From Trees and Plants, Entering into the Husbandry of Tropical and Sub-tropical Regions, &c. · 第 2 / 20 章