BENCHES

Folding settees for outdoor use are on the market at very cheap prices,

but they are neither comfortable nor substantial. Fixed benches can be

made of heavy but simple construction, as well as movable ones.

Fig. 215 shows the simplest possible form. Posts of locust, chestnut,

or cedar are set in the ground to a depth of two feet or more. The

diameter should be at least four inches.

A space one inch by three should be sawed out of each, as a rest

for the cross pieces. These should be two by four stock, ten inches

long, and must be securely nailed to the posts by eight or ten penny

nails. The seat should be 16 inches or 18 inches above the ground,

made of heavy plank at least two inches thick and 14 inches wide. Bore

quarter-inch holes, countersink and fasten the top to cross pieces by

three-inch flat-head screws. The span between cross pieces should not

be over five feet, four would be better, so that a bench twelve feet

long would call for six posts and three cross pieces, besides the top.

Space the posts five feet apart between centres. This will allow an

overhang of one foot at each end. The seat should be planed smooth,

edges slightly rounded, and then two coats of boiled linseed oil

applied. Painting seats is not advised, and varnish for outside work

is seldom satisfactory. The wood for the top should be of some kind

that is free from pitch, as the sun will draw it out, and a sticky seat

result. Oak or maple will be very satisfactory.

[Illustration: Fig. 215. A simple bench]

[Illustration: Fig. 216. Settee for tennis court]

A movable settee of heavy construction is suggested in Fig. 216. The

main dimensions for the standards supporting the seat and back strips

are given, but the form may be modified to suit the young designer.

There is considerable waste in making standards of this sort, and it

is important to have the grain run in the direction indicated in the

drawing. The two strips for the back, as well as the seat, should be

put on with screws. The horizontal pieces on this settee will not give

the necessary rigidity lengthwise, and it will be important to add

braces under the seat. These may be in the form of heavy angle irons

or square blocks, as shown at _a_. These blocks should be two inches

square, and fastened with three-inch screws to both seat and standard.

Everything about this settee is heavy and substantial, as all outdoor

work should be. The camp-stool furnishes all the light furniture

necessary.

The standards should never be more than four feet apart, so that a

settee in this style, eight feet long, would require three standards.

This design can be changed to a simple bench by omitting the back and

sawing the standard on its back edge to the same outline as the front,

as suggested by the dotted line. The trefoil opening is made by boring

three holes with a large bit at the points of a triangle.

The covered seat shown at Fig. 217 is one that may be constructed as

shown, or modified in size, proportions, etc.

Small as it is, it will tax the skill of the young worker, and give him

many of the problems of outdoor construction to figure out. It includes

the setting and levelling of posts, framing, roofing, flooring, etc.

The material necessary should be first carefully estimated, with

allowance made for waste. This is an item often forgotten by the

amateur, and one especially to be provided for in framing. If the

dimensions are to vary from those shown in our sketch, it would be

wise to make a careful drawing first. In all outdoor structures, wind,

rain, snow, and the effect of strong sunlight must be considered.

[Illustration: Fig. 217. A covered seat]

As this shelter is primarily for a tennis court, the timbers for the

frame should be planed by hand or dressed at the mill, when purchased.

The 4 × 4 uprights should be bought 12 feet long, as this is a standard

size, and set into the ground deep enough to bring the top nine feet

above ground. The temptation to place posts only a little way in the

ground must be overcome. The roof should be counted on to withstand a

wind pressure of sixty miles an hour, and three feet in the ground is

necessary in this case, as there are no braces to help support it.

Having cut the mortises for the horizontal tie piece _a_, place the

first post in the hole dug for it, tamp the earth around it, and plumb

with "level and plumb."

Another method would be to lay both uprights on the ground, place the

tie piece in position, fasten with wooden pins driven through holes

bored through the mortise and tenon joints, and nail the 2 × 4 plate on

top of both posts. Then raise the structure, and place both posts in

their respective holes at the same time.

[Illustration: Fig. 217_a_. A covered seat (_continued_)]

In any work of this character, two boys should work together, and two

trestles or saw horses will be a necessary part of their equipment. In

mortise and tenon joints of this character a method called draw boring

is frequently used. (See _b_, Fig. 217_b_.)

The hole for the pin or dowel is first bored across the centre of the

mortise. The tenon is inserted snugly, and the bit again inserted until

it makes a mark on the tenon. The tenon is withdrawn, and the centre of

bit placed 1/16 inch nearer the shoulder than the mark made, and the

hole bored. This brings the distance _y_ slightly less than _x_.

The three holes through which the pin is to pass are not in line when

the tenon is again placed in mortise. The result is to draw the tenon

tight, when the pin is driven home, and to make the joint a very snug

one, as it should be.

[Illustration: Fig. 217_b_. Draw boring a joint and method of levelling

posts]

If this method of constructing the frame on the ground is not used, the

tie piece must be placed in position before the second post is set.

Fasten the joints with the pins, and level the tie piece. If the two

posts have been laid out together on the trestles, their tops must now

come level and true.

This first step in making the structure is extremely important, as the

success of the following work depends on it.

[Illustration: Fig. 218. Details of roof construction and forms of

rafters]

After tamping the uprights solidly, the corner posts for supporting the

floor may be set in the ground. They should be of locust, cedar, or

chestnut, and at least four inches in diameter. Set them in the ground

not less than thirty inches, and flush with the ground line. It will be

better to dig out three or four inches of top soil from the whole area,

and afterward fill in with gravel, as this does not hold the moisture.

This precaution will help to prevent decay, and, wherever possible, all

the parts in contact with the earth should be painted with creosote.

The outside of posts should be five feet one way and four feet eight

inches the other. Their tops should be sawed off level. This may be

done after setting. Saw one post at the desired height. To level the

others with it, rest a straight board on first post, and while one boy

holds the level on its upper edge, let the other make a pencil mark

on the next post along under side of the board. Saw to this line, and

level the remaining posts in the same manner. (Fig. 217_b_.)

The sill or frame for flooring must now be prepared. Use either 2 × 6

or 2 × 4 inch spruce. Cut two pieces five feet long, and two pieces

four feet eight inches. Lay out half lap joints at the ends, and saw to

the lines.

Spike this frame to the locust posts, and as it touches the outside of

the uprights, nail to the latter, with ten-penny wire nails.

As additional support will be needed for the flooring, cut two 2 × 4,

and fasten them across the frame either by half lap joint or spikes.

If this frame is planed on the outside, no finishing strip will be

needed, but if it is rough sawed stock, a facing strip of 1 × 4 inch

material should be placed on the outside, flush with the top of the

frame.

The flooring may now be laid, using tongue and groove stock, and

allowing it to project an inch beyond the frame on all four sides. The

edges of this projection should be rounded with the plane. The flooring

should be neatly fitted around the uprights, so that the latter may

appear to come up through a solid floor 5 feet 4 inches by 5 feet 0

inches.

The roof should be made next, leaving the construction of the seat to

the last. The roof timbers consist of six rafters four feet long, and

six braces two feet one and a half inches long. Two methods are shown,

and several combinations may be used. The rafters may have square ends,

or some simple curved design may be sawed out, as suggested in the

detailed drawing. (Fig. 218.)

The braces may meet the rafters in a plain butt joint, and be nailed,

or they may be gained into the rafters, as shown in side view. This

latter method makes a neat job, but it is not necessary, as far as

strength is concerned. Nails are used in either case.

The straight rafter is of course the simpler and easier way, but the

Japanese effect produced by a slight curve at the ends on the upper

side is worth the little additional labour that it requires.

To secure this curve, saw out a template in white pine about fifteen

inches long and 1-1/2 inches wide, at one end, as shown in detail. The

curve may be first drawn in pencil, and then sawed on the line.

From this template lay out six pieces of scrap, 2 × 4, and saw them all

out the same size and shape. Nail them to the lower ends of the rafters

on their top side.

The upper ends of the rafters are to be mitred, and the V-shaped notch

cut as shown in detail drawing. (Fig. 219.)

The braces are square at one end, and mitred at the other.

Nail two rafters together at their mitred ends, using ten or twelve

penny wire nails. Place in position over plate, and nail to it. Nail

mitred end of braces to the upright, and then to rafter. The method of

fastening two joints at right angles is called toe-nailing--nailing

obliquely--as shown in detail.

The braces for middle rafters are fastened to the tie piece, and will

need to be somewhat longer than the four fastened to the uprights.

Their exact length should be determined by measurement, after the

end rafters are secured. The end sawed off should be the square end,

measurements being made from the extreme point of the mitred corner.

The roof is to be shingled. For this purpose, shingle lath, a standard

commercial article, is to be nailed to the rafters at intervals of

5-1/2 or 6 inches. For a steep roof like this, 6 inches will answer.

This lath is to project beyond the outside rafters 9 inches or 1 foot.

There must be a shingle lath at the top of each rafter, no matter how

near the next one may come, and sometimes the whole roof is covered

with boards as a support for the shingles, instead of lath.

Begin shingling at the lower end of the rafters, allowing the first

course to project an inch beyond the first lath. To insure the end of

the roof being straight, it is best to saw the lath after it is nailed

to rafters.

The first course of shingles should be double--_i. e._, one over the

other, joints broken.

On good and permanent roofs, where the pitch is not as great as in

this case, the method shown at _a_ (Fig. 218) is frequently used.

After the first course is laid, the second is begun with a third of a

shingle, the next with two thirds, the next with a whole one. It makes

a tighter roof than that in which each joint comes over the centre of

the one below. The carpenter marks the courses after the first with a

chalk line. Measure up six inches from the lower edge, at each end of

the roof. Take a piece of mason's line or strong cord, rub it with a

piece of chalk, hold it taut at the two pencil marks, pull it up in the

centre, and allow it to snap back to the roof. It will leave a straight

chalk line from end to end, and the lower edge of the next course of

shingles is laid to this line. Two shingle nails are to be used on

each shingle, driven into the shingle lath high enough up to be covered

by the next course.

On very fine work, the edges of shingles where they touch are first

planed, but for ordinary purposes this is not necessary.

Shingle one side of the roof clear up to the ridge, allowing the last

course to present six inches or so to the weather. Saw off carefully

all that part which projects, close to the ridge. This will allow the

shingles from the second side to project over those of the first, and

when the second side is finished it is to be sawed off at the ridge as

before.

To protect the ridge from leaks, saddle boards are sometimes added.

These are strips of pine lapped over the top and nailed, as shown in

detailed drawing.

If the curved rafters are used, the pull of the nails will make the

shingles conform to the curve, unless it is excessive.

Many methods are used by carpenters in finishing roofs, and

considerable time and material are used in constructing cornices. In

this simple structure, if the timbers have been planed as suggested, it

will be well to leave it as it is, with the rafters exposed, especially

if the ornamental curves have been sawed before erection. If the

roof has been made with boards, instead of shingle laths, the whole

construction is honestly and frankly visible. The old-fashioned method

of putting on "gingerbread" work, ornaments sawed on a hand or jig-saw,

is to be condemned. Let all your construction be strong, simple, and

straightforward.

Shingles are sometimes stained or painted. Staining is by far the

better treatment, but the shingles should be dipped into the stain and

dried before they are put on. The stains sold by most paint stores come

in a variety of colours. Some shade of green, red, or brown should be

selected, according to the colour of the body of the structure. A red

roof on a white structure looks well, as it is usually seen against a

background of blue sky and green foliage. A light gray building with

white trimmings and red roof makes a pleasing combination.

It only remains to construct the seat. This is made double, with a

back between the uprights, and the seat cover is hinged to make a

chest below for racquets, etc. This double seat is designed to give

the greatest possible seating accommodation for this size of shelter.

It has the disadvantage of one seat facing the wrong way, and if the

structure is made longer it is suggested that the back seat be omitted.

Construct a box without top or bottom 34 inches by 3 feet 8 inches.

The material may be the same as the floor, but in any case it must be

tongue and groove matched boards. This box will just slip in between

the uprights and must be securely nailed to them. To fasten to the

floor, nail cleats to the latter just inside the box, and nail the

sides and ends of the box to these cleats. Further to strengthen the

box, square cleats should be nailed upright in each corner of the

inside.

[Illustration]

The backbone of the box is a piece of 2 × 4 spruce. Its length will

be the distance between the uprights or the length of the box. Saw

down through the box ends exactly 2 inches, with the saw against the

uprights, and remove the piece 4 × 2 from each end. Into these two

spaces slip the 2 × 4 and toenail to uprights. Nail to the top of this

2 × 4 along its centre a piece of 1 × 3 pine, the same length as the 2

× 4. The box covers are to be hinged to this pine strip and will rest

on the edge of the 2 × 4 which will carry the weight.

Seat covers are to be the same length as the box, with just enough

clearance to let them move freely between the uprights. As they are 16

inches wide, it is doubtful whether a single board that width will be

available. They may be made of tongue and groove boards, with cleats 3

× 7/8 inches screwed on the under side, just long enough to allow the

cover to close. Outside edges should be rounded and three strong hinges

used on each cover. As it has a bearing surface on front and ends of

the box, no extra support will be needed.

If a support for the back is desired, two strips 3 × 1-1/4 with rounded

edges may be fastened to the uprights, and as the pressure may be both

ways, they should be nailed between two upright cleats at each end.

The cleats 7/8 × 1-1/4 are nailed to uprights, or the strips may be

mortised through.

The sharp edges of the uprights may be bevelled or chamfered where

people are likely to come in contact with them.

The structure is now ready for painting. Set all nails with nail punch,

and give the first or priming coat to the whole structure, shingles

excepted. This should be done when the wood is dry, not directly after

a rain. When this coat is dry, fill all nail holes with putty and give

second coat of paint. If the priming coat was thin a third coat may be

necessary to give the desired result. Use a little drier in the paint

and when necessary to thin it use boiled linseed oil. As white would

not be suitable for the seats and floor, a light gray for the seats and

a darker shade for the floor may be used.