The young woodworker is especially well fitted for the preparation of a
tennis court. He has learned the value of accurate measurements, and is
accustomed to make a neat and finished job. While the making of a court
seems a simple proposition, it may be a very expensive one, if help has
to be hired, and all the equipment bought ready for use.
The first step is to select the exact location, which should either be
level or practically so. Any discussion as to the merits of dirt or sod
courts must be left to the reader. The court proper is 78 × 36 feet,
the posts for the tennis net being three feet outside on either side,
and the space at the ends between the court and stop nets fifteen to
twenty feet more, making a total length of 118 feet.
The following method of laying out the court is recommended:
Make sure that the long way is exactly north and south, and drive
in the ground a wooden stake at northeast corner A (Fig. 213). At B,
directly west, drive stake 36 feet from A. A steel tape measure is by
far the best thing to use for laying out, as cord stretches and leads
to inaccuracies, and two tapes are better than one.
At the centre of each stake drive a strong nail. From B measure 78
feet south, and place a temporary stake. To insure the angle being 90
degrees, apply this test: From B along the line laid out last, measure
48 feet: slip the ring of the tape measure over the nail at A, and
measure to this new point. If the angle is 90 degrees, this diagonal
measurement should be 60 feet. If this measurement does not come right,
shift the stake C, until this oblique line is exactly 60 feet, then
lines A-B and B-C are at right angles. Having fixed this angle, again
measure from B to C, and drive stake C at 78 feet from B.
Locate stake D 78 feet from A, and 36 feet from C. A final test should
now be made by measuring the diagonals B-D and A-C. They should be
exactly alike. These corner stakes may now be driven in flush with the
surface, and they should be allowed to remain, to avoid the necessity
of doing the work all over again later in the season when the lines
become obscure. Measure in from each stake 4-1/2 feet for the alleys
and drive stakes in flush.
[Illustration: Fig. 213. The tennis court]
Next measure from stakes _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_ 18 feet along outside
lines, and again drive in stakes _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_. By passing a cord
from _a_ to _b_, and from _c_ to _d_, the service lines are laid out,
omitting alleys. Find centre of service lines, and connect points
_e_ and _f_. The net crosses the centre of court from east to west,
extending three feet beyond on each side. At these two points _x_ and
_y_, set the posts in the ground. By this method, the only stakes left
in the ground are on the outside lines, and they must be driven in so
that under no circumstances will a player stumble over them. They can
always be found after a rain storm, and new lines laid out.
The posts for the net should be seven feet long and four inches square.
Plane them off smooth, and coat the end which is to be in the ground
with creosote or coal tar.
This coating should extend three feet six inches from the bottom, and
as the post is to be three feet in the ground, this coating will extend
six inches above. Decay takes place at the point of contact with the
ground, and the creosote will prolong the life of the posts for many
years, if the wood is well seasoned. Many posts for tennis nets are not
sunk fully three feet in the ground, and consequently require guy ropes
or wires to keep them upright. The time spent in digging the holes and
tamping the dirt around posts is well spent, as the pull on them is
severe, and they must stand upright.
Six inches from the top, bore a hole 3/4 inch in diameter, east and
west. The net must be three feet high at its centre, and three feet six
inches at the posts. Pass the rope through these holes, and make fast
to a cleat. These cleats may be of iron or wood, a sketch of a wooden
cleat being shown at Fig. 215. They should be of oak or other hard
wood, put on with two strong screws through holes which have been bored
and countersunk. On the side of post toward the net, three strong screw
eyes should be put about a foot apart, the lower one six inches from
the ground. The net is to be fastened to these screw eyes to keep it in
position. When everything is ready, paint the posts two coats of dark
or bronze green.
The position of the tall poles for the back stop are shown in Fig.
213. Fifteen feet is none too far from the court for the stop net,
and twenty would be better. Purchase twelve foot four by fours, and
plane smooth, or have them dressed at the mill when ordering. This
will reduce them to 3-3/4 × 3-3/4 inches. The method of enclosing the
whole court by wire netting is seldom resorted to, unless the space
available is very limited. The method here suggested of bringing the
ends about at an angle of 45 degrees has been found very satisfactory
in stopping swift service. Locate the post holes 12 feet apart, and dig
them three feet deep. After treating the lower ends of posts for three
and a half feet with creosote or tar, place in the ground, plumb each
one while filling in, and tamp the earth about them firmly.
Strips 1 × 3 inches and 12 feet long must be used to join the posts
at the top, else the pull necessary to straighten the wire will bring
them out of plumb. These strips are to be nailed at the extreme top by
eight-penny wire nails. When the structure is finished, except for the
wire, paint with two coats of the same colour as the net posts.
The wire netting is chicken wire, inch and a half mesh, and three feet
wide. Three of these strips will cover the space from the ground to the
top. It is put on with staples nailed to the posts, stretched taut, and
the joints where the strips touch wired together at intervals of three
feet with soft iron wire.
If arranged as shown in the drawing, it will take six strips sixty feet
long by three wide for the back stop, or 1080 square feet, and will
cost $9 or $10.
Cheap cotton back stops are sold, but they are not very satisfactory,
as they tighten in damp and sag in dry weather. For a permanent court
belonging to a club the galvanized wire is well worth the difference in
cost.
The size of the mesh is important, because although a tennis ball is
2-1/2 inches in diameter, when driven hard it frequently goes through
two-inch mesh.
There are many opportunities about the tennis court for the young
woodworker to show his skill. Camp stools, settees, benches either
plain or rustic, a chest to keep racquets and balls, fitted with a
strong padlock, shelters for the spectators or club members, and even a
small club house are among the possibilities.
Permanent structures, such as shelters and heavy benches, should
generally be on the west side of the court, as spectators are usually
present after the sun has passed the meridian, and it will then be at
their back.