This table is made low purposely, the legs being exactly two feet in
length. The construction consists of four legs, two sets of cross
rails, and a circular top two feet in diameter. As this top is too
wide to be cut from one board, joint two pieces of 7/8-inch stock,
glue together, and place in clamp. The joint may be strengthened with
dowels, as in previous cases. (Fig. 197.)
[Illustration: Fig. 197. A mission tea table]
By proceeding in this order--gluing up first--no time need be lost
in waiting. Square up the four legs and lay out the eight mortises,
placing the four pieces in a vise or clamp to insure uniformity. Cut
the mortises and lay the legs one side. The two sets of cross rails are
to be halved at the centre, and may be straight or slightly curved, as
shown. The curve improves the appearance without reducing the strength
seriously, but if this form is decided on, the curve must be cut before
laying out the halved joint.
After finishing the joint, the two rails of each set are clamped
together and tenons laid out. Remove from clamp or vise and cut tenons.
Test each set to make sure the halved joint at centre is satisfactory,
and insert tenons in the mortises. Draw bore and fasten with round pins
of the same material as the legs.
Before fastening the top rails in position, drill and countersink two
holes in each piece for the screws, in the position shown in drawing.
The bevels on end of tenons should be cut with the chisel before the
final fastening.
The two boards composing the top when removed from clamps should be
dressed flat on both sides, tested with a straight edge, and circle
laid out with steel dividers set at a radius of twelve inches.
Saw close to this line with turning saw, chisel to line, and smooth
with spokeshave and sand-paper block--a piece of pine 3 × 2 × 7/8
inches, with the sand-paper tacked on the 7/8-inch edge. Scrape and
sand-paper top.
To fasten this top to the frame, lay the top upside down on the floor,
and set the frame, inverted, on it. Measure carefully to locate the
frame in proper position, and fasten with four 2-1/2 or 2-3/4 inch
flat head screws. Assuming that all parts of the frame have been
scraped and sand-papered before assembling, the table is ready for
polishing.
Oak is the wood commonly used for this piece of furniture, but if well
seasoned, chestnut is lighter in weight and just as satisfactory as to
grain and finish. (See staining and polishing.)
Sometimes in mission furniture the legs of the table are allowed
to come up through the top. This design is shown at Fig. 198. The
diameter of the top is 24 inches, but the height is increased, as this
is designed as a centre or reading table. On account of the support
furnished by the shoulder at the top of legs, the top set of rails is
omitted, and the fastening made by four angle irons securely screwed to
the top and legs.
This table, on account of the greater span between the legs, is as
stable as the previous design. The cross rails are halved, and may be
straight or curved on under side. If desired, a commodious shelf may
be had by fastening a circular piece 19 inches or less in diameter to
the top of cross rails. This will need to be glued up and cut like top
piece.
[Illustration: Fig. 198. A mission style centre table]
The square tenon at the top of legs is shown in the detailed drawing,
and care should be taken in laying out to insure the distance from the
shoulder to bottom of leg being alike on all four, if the top is to
be level.
[Illustration: Fig. 199. Mission plant stand]
After gluing up and dressing down the top, lay out circle and two-inch
square openings for the tenons. Test these squares carefully before
cutting, to make sure they are equally spaced, saw out circle, and
finish as in previous table. Saw out the squares close to line and
finish with chisel. In putting on angle irons, screw them to the top
first and press it tightly down on the shoulders before fastening to
legs. A strong cleat 18 or 20 inches long fastened to under side of top
across the grain with four or five screws will help to prevent warping,
but is not absolutely necessary. If the circular shelf is added, it is
to be fastened to cross rails by screws from the under side through
drilled holes.