One of the most interesting problems in clock case designing is a
miniature of the tall clock of colonial times, commonly known as the
grandfathers' clock. It is a simple and satisfactory form, but it is
very important to have good proportions.
The dimensions used by our boys are given in the drawing. (Fig. 172).
As in all the other designs, it is based or built up around the
ordinary nickel-plated clock, whose outside diameter is 2-1/4 inches.
With a circle of this diameter as a starter, the other sizes work out
as given in the drawing.
About the only fault likely to be found with this form is top
heaviness, as the clock is some fifteen inches above its base. This
can be counteracted by boring a hole in the back, two or three inches
above the bottom, and pouring in about a pound of shot or other heavy
material.
The method of construction is as follows:
All the material is 1/4 inch thick, except the base and mouldings,
which require 1/2-inch wood. Red gum is very satisfactory, but more
expensive woods, such as mahogany, can be used, especially if the
front panel, which in full-sized clocks is a door, is to be inlaid.
If gum wood is used, this panel can be decorated with chip carving or
simply outlined with a veining tool. If an especially elaborate result
is desired, it can be accomplished by a raised panel with moulded edges
made of 1/4-inch wood, fastened to the front with glue and small brads.
Bill of material:
Base 8-1/2 × 4 × 1/2 Moulding 18 × 3/8 × 3/8
Box 2 sides 17-1/2 × 1-3/4 × 1/4 Face 4-3/4 × 4 × 1/4
1 front 14-1/2 × 3 × 1/4 Sides of top, 2 pcs.
1 back 14-1/2 × 2-1/2 × 1/4 3-1/2 × 2-1/4 × 1/4
Partitions 2--2-1/2 × 2-1/4 × 1/4
1--2-1/2 × 1-1/2 × 1/4
After getting out the material construct the long box which makes the
body of the design. This will be 17-1/2 inches long, 3 inches wide by 2
inches deep, and the method of putting together is shown at _a_. This
allows only one joint to show on each side, and the back piece may be
of cheap material, such as white wood.
The smallest partition, 2-1/2 × 1-1/2 × 1/4, of white wood, is inserted
in the bottom, pushed up 1/8 inch, and fastened with 3/4-inch brads
from the outside. This size of brad will not split 1/4-inch gum wood,
unless driven in nearer the edge than 1/8 inch.
[Illustration: Fig. 172. Grandfathers' clock]
One of the remaining partitions is placed in the upper end, as in a
box, one edge flush with the back. The entire back of the case must be
in a straight line. The end just inserted will project out in front a
quarter of an inch. Place the remaining partition 3-1/8 inches down
from the extreme top of the box. This will bring it to rest against the
front, which is only 14-1/2 inches high.
The compartment for holding the clock is now complete, open front and
back.
The base may next be prepared, taking care to have the grain running
up and down. The front piece of the base is 4 × 4 × 1/2 inches. Side
pieces of base are 4 × 2 × 1/2. These three pieces are to be put
together with a butt joint, as shown in the bottom view, and fastened
with one-inch brads and a little glue. Four 3/4-inch brads can be used
on each of the three sides to hold the base to the box. It is very
important that the bottom be perfectly square. It should be tested and,
if necessary, squared with a block plane.
The cove moulding for upper and lower parts may now be prepared. Square
up one piece of stock 18 inches or 20 × 3/8 inches square. Draw a
quarter circle with a radius of 5/16-inch on each end, and remove the
wood in this space with a gouge. Finish with sand-paper. This moulding
is fitted around the three sides at top of base with a back saw and
mitre box. Put it in place with 3/4-inch brads and glue, and carefully
remove any trace of glue that may appear, before it hardens.
The moulding for the upper part cannot be placed until the top is
finished.
After squaring up the face, draw the outline directly on the wood. The
curves at the top should be first laid out carefully on stiff paper,
cut out with scissors, and traced on the wood.
The opening for the clock, 2-1/4 inches diameter, must be bored first.
Either a sharp centre bit or an extension bit should be used. If the
latter, an 1/8-inch hole must be bored at the centre, otherwise the
tapering spur of the extension bit will surely split the thin wood.
This is the most delicate operation in the whole process, and the
circular opening will need smoothing with a sand-paper block.
Having succeeded in getting a satisfactory opening, the outline is
sawed close to the lines with a coping saw and finished with sand-paper.
The supplementary pieces _s s_, 3-1/2 × 2-1/4 × 1/4 inches, are next
fastened to the sides at the top. They are flush with the top of the
box and with the bottom of the face piece just described. It is to
these that the front is mainly fastened. Test the bottom edges of
these pieces across both the front and back with a try square. Fasten
the front to these and to the top of the box with brads, and add the
moulding, as shown in drawing. If the front panel is to be carved, that
should be done before either the base or the top is put on; and if it
is to be inlaid, the front should be increased in thickness to 3/8
inches, reducing the sides to 1-5/8 inches in place of 1-3/4 inches.
After the assembling is finished, set all the brads, and fill the holes
with putty, coloured to match the wood. Either an oil or wax finish can
be used, but a high polish is not advisable. All lines on the front,
which are not edges, can be cut with a veining tool.
Several modifications of this method can be adopted. The front panel
may be made a real door, put on with small ornamental hinges. This will
increase the work, make it more realistic, but result in little real
gain.
The door in large clocks was necessary for getting at the weights and
pendulum, but as these parts are missing in our model, the door is not
necessary, except possibly for hiding things from burglars. It is
the last spot they would be likely to think of as a hiding place for
treasures.
As in previous designs, the ring at the top of the clock can be
removed, if it prevents fitting into the opening provided.
The drawing shows a curve in the front of the base. It is not
essential, but may be cut at any convenient stage of the construction
with the coping saw, and sand-papered.
By comparing this design with some real old six-foot clocks, the young
designer will see that we have taken some liberties for the purpose of
simplifying the work. Highly ornamental tops were sometimes used, with
metal and carved ornaments. It is never difficult to make elaborate
designs, and the young woodworker can go as far as he likes in that
direction. It is, however, sometimes difficult to simplify designs, and
this we believe is at present highly desirable.