THE PAID SERVANTS OF THE MONASTERY
No account of the officials of a mediæval monastery would be complete
without some notice of the assistants, other than the monks, who took so
large a part in the administration. Incidentally something has already
been said about the paid lay officers and servants; but their position
requires that their place and work should be discussed somewhat more
fully. They were all of them salaried servants; and frequently, if not
generally, faithful, lifelong friends of the monks, whose interest in the
well-being of the establishment with which they were connected was almost
as keen and real as that of the brethren themselves. In some of the
greater houses their number was very considerable, and even in small
monasteries the records of the dissolution make it clear that there were,
at least in most of them, a great number of such retainers. In many places
the higher lay offices, such as steward, cook, etc., became in process of
time, hereditary, and were much prized by the family in whose possession
they were. It was also possible, of course, that by default of male heirs,
the position might pass to the female line. Thus in one case the office of
cook in a great Benedictine monastery was held by a woman in respect to
her inheritance of the last holder. She became the ward of the superior,
and he had thus a good deal to say to her marriage, by which she
transmitted the office to her husband as her dower. Among the various paid
officials the following were the most important.
1. THE CATERER, OR BUYER FOR THE COMMUNITY
The caterer, says one Custumal, “ought to be a broad-minded and
strong-minded man: one who acts with decision, and is wise, just and
upright in things belonging to his office; one who is prudent, knowing,
discreet and careful when purchasing meat and fish in the market or from
the salesman.” Under the kitchener, the caterer had to look after the cook
and his assistants, and every day to see that the expenses were properly
and faithfully set down. He had to watch that the right things were given
out to those who had to prepare them, and at the daily meals of the
community it was his duty to stand at the kitchen hatchway and see that
they were served up in a fitting manner. In the market, the buyer for the
superior always gave way to the caterer for the community. In the case of
Edmundsbury at least, it was settled by Abbot Sampson that this was always
to be so. Under the conventual caterer were two servants always ready at
his call to carry the provisions he purchased in the market to the
monastery. The stipend of the caterer was whatever had been agreed as
just, and he usually had clothes “according to his station,” and certain
provisions at his disposal.
2. THE ABBOT’S COOK
This official held more the position of a steward, or valet to the
superior, than that of a cook. He had to go each morning to the abbot or
prior for orders, and to find out what would be required for the
superior’s table for the day, and he had then to proceed to the kitchener
to inform him what had to be provided. He helped in the kitchen on
occasions such as great feasts, when he was asked to do so by the
kitchener; and as a matter of course, when there were many strangers or
other persons to be entertained and the work was consequently heavy. For
this and such-like services he received a stipend from the kitchener; but
his ordinary payment came from the superior, who also furnished him with
his livery. He was told by the Custumals to remember that, although he was
the abbot’s cook, he had, nevertheless, to obey the kitchener in all
things, and to look conscientiously to try and prevent waste and
superfluity in spices and such other things as passed through his hands.
If he needed help, the abbot’s valet could have a boy to run on errands
and generally assist; and they were both warned that in the season for
pig-killing and bacon-curing they, like all other servants, were to be
ready to help in the important work of salting. He had, as part of his
duty, to keep a careful list of all the spoons, mugs, dishes, and other
table necessaries, and after meals to see that they were clean; and, if
not, to clean them before the close of the day. Once each year the
inventory had to be shown to, and checked by, the kitchener.
3. THE LARDERER
The larderer should be “as perfect, just, and faithful a servant” as could
be found. He had charge of the keys of all the outhouses attached to the
great larder of the monastery, which in one Custumal are specified as “the
hay-house, the stockfish-house, and the pudding-house.” These keys,
together with that of the outer larder itself, he had always to carry with
him on his girdle, as he alone might be responsible for their safety. In
all matters he, too, was to be under the kitchener, and not to absent
himself without his permission. Amongst his various duties a few may be
mentioned here. He had to grind and deliver in powder to the cook all the
pepper, mustard, and spices required for the cooking of the conventual
meals. When the convent were to have “bake-meats,” such as venison,
turbot, eels, etc., the larderer had to prepare the dish for the cook, and
to sprinkle it over with saffron. All the live animals intended for the
kitchen, such as sheep, bullocks, calves, pigs, etc., had to pass through
his hands. He had to see to the killing, skinning, and preparing them for
the spit; the tallow he kept in order to provide the treasurer with
material for the winter candles. The larderer also had to see that the
live birds, such as pheasants, partridges, capons, hens, chickens,
pigeons, etc., were fed properly, and were ready for the table when the
kitchener should need them. In the same way the store of fish, both in the
stews, and salted in the fish-house, were under his charge, as were also
the peas and beans for the convent pottage.
4. THE COOK
For the infirmary, and especially for the use of those who had been
subjected to the periodical blood-letting, there was a special cook
skilled in the preparation of strengthening broths and soups. He was the
chief or meat-cook of the establishment, and had under him two boys, one
as a general helper, the other to act as his “turnbroach.” He was
appointed to his office by the abbot, and at least in the case of some of
the greater houses it was secured to him for life by a formal grant. It
was his duty to provide those who had been “blooded” with a plate of meat
broth on the second and third day, and also to give them, and the sick
generally, any particular dish they might fancy. Moreover, he had to
furnish the whole community with soup, meat, and vegetables on all days
when meat was eaten by the whole convent.
He had also to see to the process of salting any meat in the proper
seasons, or whenever it might be necessary. He also prepared the various
soups or pottages for the community; for instance, “Frumenty” on all
Sundays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays, from August 1st to September 29th; or
“Letborry,” made with milk, eggs, and saffron on fish days, from July till
October; or “Charlet,” the same composition with the addition of pork, for
other days during the same time; or “Jussel,” from Easter to July; or
“Mortrews,” in which the quantity of meat was increased, and which was
served on all days, except those of abstinence, during the winter months,
from All Saints’ day to Lent.
One English Custumal warns the cook to reflect often that his work in the
kitchen is necessarily heavy and tedious; and that he should endeavour to
keep up a goodly feeling between himself and his assistants, for “without
this mutual assistance it is difficult” to do what his office requires of
him for the good of others. For his trouble he had a fixed wage and a
house; and many recognised perquisites, the choppings of joints, and two
joints from every other chine of pork, as well as half the dripping that
came from the joints roasted for the community.
5. THE GUEST-HALL COOK
The cook to attend to the needs of visitors was appointed by the cellarer,
and had under him a boy to help in any way he might direct. His office was
frequently for life, and certainly, once appointed, he could be removed
only with difficulty. He had to get everything ready for the entertainment
of strangers and of the parents of the religious, whenever they came to
the monastery and at whatsoever hour of the day or night. Besides this
ordinary work he had to assist, when disengaged, in preparing the meals
for the monks, and in the season for salting the pork and mutton, to help
in that work with the chief cook and the larderer. He was to be in all
things obedient to the kitchener in the matters of his office, and in the
times of his service was not to absent himself except with the permission
of that official. His wages were paid by the cellarer according to
agreement; and he had the usual kitchen perquisites of choppings and
dripping.
6. THE FISH-COOKS
In the large monasteries, such as, for example, Edmundsbury, there were
two cooks for the fish-dishes: the first was properly called the
“fish-cook,” the other the “pittance-cook.” Their appointment was made for
life, and by letters-patent signed by the abbot in Chapter, with the prior
and the community as witnesses. Though called the “fish-cooks” these
servants had also to attend to the general work of the kitchen, even on
days when meat was eaten, and to cook the meat and make the gravy
required; whilst the “pittance-cook” was specially detailed to fry or
poach the eggs required for the extra portions, or to prepare whatever
else took their place in the dishes served as pittances to the community,
or to individuals such as the president of the refectory, and the priest
who had sung the High Mass. These two cooks also had to help in the
salting time, and in other common work of the kitchen.
7. INFIRMARY COOK
To serve the sick a prudent, skilful cook was to be chosen by the
infirmarian, who, besides the knowledge of his art, should have compassion
and feel pity for the sufferings and afflictions of the sick. Like the
officers previously named, the appointment of the infirmary cook was for
life; but though he could not be moved at the whim of a superior, he was
not formally appointed in Chapter, but by a letter from the infirmarian.
Day and night he was to show himself solicitous for the welfare of those
in the infirmary, and be ready at all times to make for them what they
needed or might fancy. He, too, had to help in the general kitchen, and he
had to obtain thence all the requisite food for those who were having
their meals in the infirmary. Like the rest of the above-named officials,
he had to give what help he could in the kitchen in the seasons of great
pressure, and in particular at the time for the winter salting, about St.
Martin’s Day.
When the infirmary cook or servant came to die, for his faithful service
he was borne to the grave, like all the other servants of the monastery,
by the whole convent. His body was met at the great door of the church by
the community in procession, and after Mass had been celebrated for the
repose of his soul by the sub-sacrist, the monks carried his remains, as
that of a good and faithful servant gone to his reward, to his last
resting-place. In some houses there was even a special portion of the
consecrated ground dedicated to the burial of monastic servants: at Bury,
for example, it was called “Sergeant’s hill,” and the Custumal says that
in that “venerable monastery” such old friends “shall never be forgotten
in the prayers and devout supplications of the community.”
8. THE SALTER
The salter, who was also called the _mustardarius_, was appointed by a
letter of the kitchener; and like the rest he was irremovable after his
appointment, except for grave reasons, and then only with difficulty. By
his office he had to see to the supply and preparation of all the mustard
used in seasoning the dishes and by the brethren in the various places
where food was partaken, such as the refectory, guest-hall, infirmary,
etc. This was by no means the unimportant office we might in these days be
inclined to consider it, as it was then considered useful if not necessary
to take mustard with all salted food, flesh or fish. The quantity thus
required in a large establishment was very considerable. The salter was
also expected to make some, if not all, the sauces required for certain
dishes. At Easter, for instance, he was to prepare “vertsauce” with
vinegar for the lamb, if the herb could be found for it; by which it may
be supposed that “mint-sauce” is meant, except that this particular
concoction was supposed also to go with mackerel as well as lamb!
9. BELL-RINGERS AND CHURCH-SERVERS
On all days when the great bells were rung and the services of the church
were more elaborate than at ordinary times, the ringers and servers had
their rations and some extra portion from the conventual refectory. In a
great place like Bury St. Edmunds these days amounted to some
two-and-forty in the year.
10. THE GARDENER
The gardener was appointed by the cellarer at his pleasure. His chief duty
was to keep the convent supplied with herbs on four days a week in winter
and spring, and with other vegetables in their season. He was frequently
to visit the kitchen in order to learn what was required from him, and he
was always to bring his vegetables and herbs cleaned and prepared ready
for cooking.
11. THE CARRIERS
The carriers were servants who were continually occupied in the work of
provisioning the establishment. They had to be at hand to carry to the
monastic stores whatever the caterer bought in the market. Also in the
time of the great fairs, they attended the cellarer to take charge of his
purchases of spices, almonds and raisins, ling and stockfish, and salted
herrings, red and white, and to convey them to the monastery. On ordinary
days they were occupied in bringing to the cook the food he required from
the various officials; in carrying in the fuel and keeping up the fires,
and in carting away the refuse to the waste-heap. These carriers had a
money wage and numerous perquisites; amongst other things, they could
claim all the little barrels in which salmon, sturgeon, and salt eels had
come to the monastic larder, and they might take and use what they could
for their own meals of every pig that was brought to the salting-tub and
found to be “measly.”
12. DOOR-KEEPERS
In most great monastic houses there were naturally several porters or
door-keepers. The _kitchen-porter_ was in some ways the most important, as
so much of the traffic from the outer world to the cloister came this way.
He was set there for the purpose of preventing any unauthorised person
gaining access to the kitchen so as to disturb the cook; and at all times
he had to check the coming in of seculars, or of begging clerks, or of the
neighbours, unless they could show leave or business. He had to receive
and distribute all the daily alms of food to those waiting at the gate.
The _porter of the great cloister gate_ had to watch over the main
entrance of the house, to open the door to visitors, and at once to
acquaint the guest-master of their arrival.
13. THE BRIEF-BEARER--BREVIATOR
The _brief-bearer_, by his office, was intended to carry the notice of the
death of any of the brethren in the monastery round to other monasteries
and religious houses in England. The abbot appointed this official, and
the office was held for life. In Benedictine abbeys, according to a
provision of the General Chapter of Northampton, the bearer of the
mortuary roll was to be received with honour and entertained until he had
obtained his roll again and could pass on to the next house on his list.
Besides his regular wage and portion of food from the monastic kitchen, on
the death of any monk he could claim as his right the mattress of the
deceased brother, or in lieu of it a sum of six shillings and eightpence.
Besides the above-named officers there were, at least in the greater
houses, many minor paid officials and retainers. For example, the
_discarius_, or server of dishes in the refectory, was bound always to be
at the kitchen-hatch whenever conventual meals were in progress, and it
was his place to wait upon those who took their meals at the second table.
He was a kind of lower servant in the kitchen; he had to help in bringing
in the fuel, and to see that the wheelbarrow for the waste was in its
place, and was emptied when it was necessary. After the meals, the
discarius washed the plates and dishes, and saw that when dry, they were
stacked in their proper cupboards ready for the next occasion.
Another minor official was the “turnbroach”--a boy chosen by the cellarer
for his activity. He had to be always ready when required to turn the
spits on which meat or fish was cooking. He helped in carrying fuel for
the kitchen and elsewhere; and when ordered, he had to go to the ponds and
stews to help to catch fish for the conventual meal.
In some places, for example at Edmundsbury, there were certain women
employed at times by the monastery for the making of pastry, etc., called
_pudding-wives_. They had a house or chamber near at hand to the kitchen,
called the “Pudding-house.” These women were chosen by the larderer with
the assent of the chief cook; they lived in the neighbourhood and came up
to the outer kitchen offices when their services were required. Great care
was taken in the selection of these servants, and it was directed that
they “be always married, sober, of good repute and honest, that all danger
of detraction from evil tongues be avoided.” At all times when animals
were slaughtered, in particular about St. Martin’s Day, and when pigs
were being killed, the services of these women were required to make black
puddings. At other times, if the cook desired, they were to be ready to
make pasties and other things which seemed to require the gentler touch of
a female hand. Among the women servants there were, of course, also
laundresses for the washing of the clothes of the community, and others
for the infirmary, the guest-hall, and the church linen. All these were
selected with care and upon the same principles which guided the selection
of the above-mentioned pudding-wives.