February 8.
This was a busy day as we knew we were to abandon the depot in the
evening. By the assistance of Lieutenant Gascoyne and some of his men,
with two boats, we pulled the horses across the river. In the evening, as
soon as Messrs. Campbell and Wilson had hurriedly finished a copy for
Captain Norman of the notes I had made in my memorandum-book when on the
expedition to the south-west, the Firefly hulk was abandoned. Those of my
party I could not take overland accompanied Lieutenant Gascoyne, Captain
Norman having previously agreed to take them to their respective
destinations, namely: my late assistant commander, H.N. Campbell, to
Hobson's Bay, Victoria; Mr. Allison, and the aboriginal trooper, Charlie,
to Brisbane. Mr. Bourne and I accompanied them in Lieutenant Gascoyne's
boat down the river to our camp, where we bade farewell.
February 9.
Today we were busily employed preparing for our expedition.
February 10.
As there were mangrove mudflats in the neighbourhood of our camp the
mosquitoes were particularly troublesome; we hurriedly therefore made
preparations for leaving it. When we had packed up as many things as the
horses could conveniently carry the blacks paid us a visit, and we gave
them the remainder. 5.10 p.m. we started and came five and a quarter
miles upon well-grassed plains, and encamped near a fine waterhole. The
water was slightly brackish, but not so much so as to render it
undrinkable. The plains we crossed were slightly wooded. We came on the
following courses: 5.20 p.m. half a mile south-east; 5.35 p.m.
three-quarters of a mile east; 6 p.m. one mile east-south-east; 8 p.m.
three miles south. Distance five and a quarter miles.
February 11.
In consequence of having to repair packs and packsaddles we could not
manage to leave until 1.10 p.m. The three weeks' rest the horses had on
the rich pasture near the depot made a wonderful improvement in their
condition. They were so restive yesterday that several of them in
galloping and plunging did considerable damage to the packs and
packsaddles. As the tracks of Walker's party were so indistinct that I
could only see them when pointed out to me by the aborigines of our
party, I foresaw that it would be tedious if not impossible to follow
them to where Mr. Walker said he had left the tracks of Mr. Burke's
party. When we had come a short distance over fine well-grassed plains we
reached a saltwater creek, which we followed up a short distance, then
crossed it and encamped in haste, as we saw a heavy thunder-shower was
about to fall. Before leaving last camp I made an observation of the sun
and found its meridian altitude 86 degrees 3 minutes. The latitude is by
this observation 17 degrees 53 minutes. We came here on the following
courses: 1.40 south-east and by east, one and a half miles; 2.22 south
one and a half miles to saltwater creek; 2.25 north-east half a mile up
the creek; 2.50 south-west and by west, half a mile up the creek to ford.
Distance come today four and a half miles.
February 12.
Camp 2, which we left this morning at 7.20, is situated about seven miles
south-east from the Albert River depot. In our journey today, although we
often got off the tracks of Walker's party, we did not altogether lose
them. Near where we encamped tonight Jemmy saw a dead horse. From last
camp we came over well-grassed, lightly wooded plains for five miles,
then over flat country for four and three-quarter miles. The land was
covered with good grasses and wooded with box and excoecaria. What I take
to be excoecaria resembles the tree Mr. Walker describes as being
probably the gutta-percha. The box trees are similar to those that grow
near the Murrumbidgee River. In the middle of the day I halted to make an
observation of the sun. I made its meridian altitude 85 degrees 32
minutes. The latitude is by that observation 17 degrees 59 minutes.
Afterwards we came out of the wooded country in one and a half miles,
then came over plains for four and a quarter miles, then crossed a
shallow watercourse and encamped. These plains had a higher elevation
than any we had seen since leaving the depot. The soil was rich and
luxuriantly covered with the best grasses, and slightly wooded with
white-wood. The white-wood I take to be the tree Mr. Gregory calls the
erythrina. We came here on the following courses: 9.20 five and a quarter
miles; 11.33 east-south-east four and three-quarter miles; 1.30
east-south-east one and a half miles and crossed a shallow watercourse
from the west; 2.40 east-south-east for four and a quarter miles and
crossed another shallow watercourse; 2.5 east-south-east for
three-quarters of a mile over low lands liable to inundation. Distance
today sixteen and a half miles.
February 13.
Number 3, our last camp, was situated on the right bank of a shallow
watercourse. As one of the horses had barely recovered the effects of
travelling on stony country when on the expedition to the south-west, we
had this morning to put a shoe on one of his feet with screw nails; the
screws, in the absence of proper nails, answer tolerably well. We started
at 9.6 and, having passed over a rich, lightly-wooded plain about eight
miles, we reached the Leichhardt River at a part where the tide reaches.
This river seems to be fully larger than the Albert. The tracks of
Walker's party were so indistinct on the rich plains from so much rain
having fallen that I gave up hope of being able to follow them. We
coursed the river down three-quarters of a mile and found a shallow rocky
ford, but it was not available as the rocks were too slippery and the
opposite bank too steep. Near the ford we saw some articles belonging to
the blacks, and amongst them a piece of an old blanket that I fancied was
a part of one I had given to them at the Albert River. From the ford we
returned up the river and encamped near some small waterholes. The
direction we came today from last camp south-east by east; distance eight
miles. In the distance I may be a little out of my calculation, my watch
having stopped. This was particularly vexing as I had bought it expressly
for keeping the time while on this expedition. After dark we heard the
horses galloping and, as Jemmy, Jackey, and Fisherman thought blacks were
driving them away, I sent them to fetch them back; but they did not
disturb them as they were feeding quietly and no blacks were seen.
February 14.
We left Number 4 Camp this morning at 7.50. In following the river up
about seven and three-quarter miles to a basaltic ford, where the water
was fresh, we passed over rich well-grassed country, consisting chiefly
of plains, separated from each other by low wooded country. On the low
land we observed salt herbs, and pigweed, the proper name of which, I
believe, is portulac. We crossed the ford and camped on the opposite
side. The scenery here is picturesque; there is a fall of about thirty
feet with beautiful trees in its neighbourhood. The channel of the river
showed extensive old flood-marks and had plenty of water in it, but I had
to make a minute examination of it before I discovered the water was
running. In a fine deep hole below the fall Mr. Bourne and I intended
bathing, but had to go further, from hearing something like a large
animal plunge into the water. To the eastward I made an observation of
the sun from a short plain horizon; I made the altitude 84 degrees 45
minutes, latitude 18 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds. We came here on the
following courses: 8.35 south-east for two miles; 8.45 south half a mile
to boggy ground; 10.20 south half east three and a quarter miles; 10.35
south half a mile and crossed a shallow watercourse from the west; 10.50
east one mile and crossed another watercourse; 12.50 east half a mile and
crossed the Leichhardt River.
February 15.
We left Camp 5 at 7.58. At 8.20, having crossed one mile and a half over
a sandy flat, wooded with gum, fig, cotton, coral, white cedar, and other
trees, we reached the flat rocky bed of a large watercourse. 8.50 one
mile and a quarter up the creek and crossed it; then one mile and
three-quarters over a fine plain with grass, pigweed, and salt herbs.
10.5 one mile and three-quarters took us over a barren low ridge, with
rusty-gum, box, bloodwood, severn, and other trees, to a grassy
watercourse with fine little holes of water; from its being boggy we were
delayed in crossing until 10.25. One mile and a half over grassy flats
and across another watercourse coming from the eastward. 12.45, having
gone over poor ridges for five miles, we reached a fine, rich, flat
valley, luxuriantly covered with barley and other grasses; delayed until
1.58 while some of our party tried, without success, to shoot an emu.
2.30, having come about four and a quarter miles, we reached a
watercourse and encamped; the water flows from the north-east and shows
extensive flood-marks. The valley I named Neumayer. Direction today
east-south-east; distance sixteen miles.
February 16. Sunday.
Rested ourselves and horses.
February 17.
Left camp at 6.35. Four and a half miles took us across low land, wooded
chiefly with (what I take it to be) excoecaria; then a mile over
unwooded, gently-undulating ground, which extended up the valley to
little bald hills. The land is well grassed. A site near those hills
would answer well for a lambing-ground for a sheep establishment. Then a
mile over high grassy lands, wooded with gum, broad-leaved box,
white-wood, and other trees; then two miles further to near the base of a
hill that was remarked from its only being wooded on its summit; then
three and a half miles over undulating well-grassed ground to a small
watercourse from the west; then three miles over flat poor country,
thickly wooded with bloodwood and other trees; then three and a half
miles over poor low ridges, covered with triodia and other grasses, and
wooded with bloodwood, tea, severn, and other trees, to a small
watercourse, where we encamped. Direction today east by south half south;
distance sixteen miles.
February 18.
We left Camp 7 (marked by mistake 8) at 8.16 this morning. At 11.45 we
had come nine miles and a half over two kinds of country--the first and
largest part consisting of poor low ridges, covered with inferior grasses
and wooded with bloodwood, tea, and other trees; the second part
consisting of flat country, rich soil, well grassed, and wooded with
bauhinia and western-wood acacia. The acacia I have mentioned is called
gidya in some places of Australia. Then, after crossing, in half a mile,
a strip of unwooded country extending to the right and left of our
course, we halted for thirty-five minutes to try and get the sun's
meridian altitude, but did not succeed as the sun was obscured. Then,
after coming over poor low ridges covered with triodia and wooded chiefly
with tea trees for five and three-quarter miles, we reached at 2.45 a
ravine and encamped. Direction travelled this day east by south half
south.
February 19. Camp 8, situated in a ravine from an adjoining tableland.
In the rocky basin of the ravine I think water will always be found. We
left camp at 6.40 this morning and came in an east by south half south
direction. The country for a short distance was confined, but on
descending the valley it opened out into plains separated from each other
by isolated hills of a conical form. The tops of the hills were covered
by rocks which, from their appearance, were of a sandstone formation; the
lower parts of the hills were well grassed, the plains of rich soil, and
covered with a luxuriant green herbage. At 9.30, having come over the
plains on our old course for five miles from the isolated hills, we
reached the Flinders River. The river, we were glad to find, had been
recently flooded; in crossing we ascertained it had four channels, one of
which was running. As this was the river on the banks of which Mr. Walker
said he had found the track of Burke's party I thought it would be a good
plan to follow it up, and resolved to do so. At 10.10 from the opposite
bank of the river we came south two and three-quarter miles, which took
us over country wooded with box and terminalis to plains similar to those
I have described on the left bank of the river, with this difference that
on this side there were more flats and pigweed, salt herbs, and saltbush.
At 12 having halted I got the following observation: meridian altitude of
the sun 82 degrees, latitude 18 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds. At 1.20
south-south-east three and a quarter miles over rich well-grassed plains;
at 2.5 south-east and by south two and a quarter miles; at 13.13
south-west and by south three miles through wooded, rich, flat country to
water, and encamped. Distance today nineteen and a quarter miles.
February 20. Camp 9, situated on the right bank of an eastern channel of
the river.
At this camp one of the mares foaled. Left camp at 7.46; at 8.10, having
steered south half east one mile, we reached the river; then changed our
course to south-south-east and at 8.38, having travelled one and a
quarter miles, we got out of the box and saltbush flats to unwooded
plains; delayed then until 9.33, whilst some of our party tried
unsuccessfully to shoot emu. At 10.30 came south-east one and a half
miles along a plain. At 11.30 came south-south-east two and a half miles
to a point of timber, then halted till 12.45 to make an observation of
the sun; at 1.20 came south-south-east one and a half miles over thinly
wooded plains. The plains in this neighbourhood are thinly grassed, which
I think is caused by a recent dry season; at 1.45 made south one and a
quarter miles over country that is more thickly grassed; at 2.20 came one
and a quarter miles south half west through flats wooded with box and
encamped. Distance today eleven and a quarter miles. The foal was so
active that it kept up with the horses on this day's journey.
February 21. Camp 10, situated on the right bank of Flinders River.
Started at 7.30 a.m.; at 7.56, having steered east-south-east a mile over
rich ground with box trees and saltbush, we reached well grassed land,
thinly wooded with white-wood, pomegranate, bauhinia, and other small
trees; 9.15 south-east one and a half miles over ground so green with
herbage that one of my companions said it resembled the banks of the
Murrumbidgee in spring; at 11.20 east-south-east five miles and a quarter
across an unwooded plain, and halted till 12.45 to make the following
observation: meridian altitude of the sun 81 degrees 33 minutes; latitude
18 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds; at 1.30 we steered south-south-east two
miles over rich plains, covered in places with luxuriant young grass
having the appearance more of young barley than any other indigenous
verdure that I have seen elsewhere. At 2.30 came south two and
three-quarter miles and encamped. Distance today twelve and a half miles.
February 22.
We left Camp 11, situated on the right bank of the Flinders River at 7.47
a.m.; at 8.50, having come south-east two and three-quarter miles through
a very rich thinly wooded country with herbage like that on old folding
ground in spring, we reached unwooded plains; at 9.20 came
south-south-east one and a quarter miles across a plain chiefly covered
with barley-grass; at 11.20 came south-east by south across plains for
five and a quarter miles to the edge of wooded country, and halted till
12.35; at that place I made the meridian altitude of the sun 81 degrees 1
minute, latitude 19 degrees 6 minutes; at 1.2 came south-south-east one
and a quarter miles along a plain; at 2.17 thence south-east three miles
further along the plain, on which there was abundance of saltbush and
pigweed; at 3.35 came south half west over thinly wooded plains; at 3.50
came south-west half a mile and encamped. Distance today seventeen and a
quarter miles.
February 23.
This being Sunday we rested ourselves and horses. In this neighbourhood
Jackey and Fisherman caught five possums.
February 24.
Left Camp 12 situated on the right bank of Flinders River at 8.52 a.m.
During last night and this morning the weather was showery. In the
morning the rain was accompanied by a strong east wind. Now that I am on
the subject of the weather I may mention that for some time past it was
so cool that although we were in the sun the hottest part of the day I
did not find the heat oppressive; at 10.5, having come south-east and by
south three miles, that course took us along a plain of the richest soil,
but thinly grassed, in consequence, probably, of a recent dry season; at
10.40, having changed our course to east, we came one and a half miles
and crossed a watercourse with large quantities of mussel shells on its
banks, but with no water in its channel; at 12.15, having changed our
course to south, we came over country, some of which was well grassed and
very green from the old grass having been burnt, for four miles. In this
distance we crossed several watercourses. Having left the party to look
at the river, in my absence a high hill was seen to the left of our
course. The banks of the river I found thickly wooded with western-wood
acacia; at 1.15 came south along the plain for two and three-quarter
miles, and delayed until 1.50 while the most of our party tried
unsuccessfully to shoot emu; at this place I observed the hill which had
been seen previously. It bore south-east by south from us. The hill I
named Fort Bowen; at 2.25 came south-east and by south over rich ground
for two miles. The vegetation in this neighbourhood seems nearly dead,
excepting the saltbush. To adjust the packs of one of the horses we
delayed here till 2.45; at 3.50 came 2 and three-quarter miles south and
encamped. Distance today sixteen miles.
February 25.
Number 13 Camp is situated on the right bank of the Flinders River at a
point about four miles distant from Fort Bowen and north-west and by west
from it. Looking from the camp, the hill had a long-topped aspect with
rather an abrupt western termination. During the night the weather was
showery and this morning rain fell, accompanied by a strong north-east
wind. Left camp at 8.47 a.m. and reached the base of Fort Bowen in four
and a half miles at 10.25. In coming that distance we crossed plains
which had, near the river, more herbs than grass; and near the hill more
grass than herbs. At the base we found springs surrounded by reeds and
clumps of tea-trees. Accompanied by Jemmy I ascended Fort Bowen, the rest
of the party proceeding up the river. From the summit I observed two
little hills in the distance bearing 60 degrees east of south. From the
density of the atmosphere no other hills were visible. Plains surround
Fort Bowen on all sides. Those on the west side of the Flinders River are
more thickly wooded than those on the east side. Fort Bowen, I should
say, is about 200 feet high. From its surface pudding-stone rocks crop
out. Almost immediately after descending we overtook the rest of the
party, halting near waterholes in which there were ducks. Jackey and
Fisherman had tried to kill some but without success; at 12.18 Mr. Bourne
and Jackey went to shoot at a large flock of cockatoos, the rest of us
proceeding on our journey; at 2.55 came south-east and by south over rich
plains with more herbs on them than grass at places, and more grass than
herbs at other places, seven miles, and encamped. Before we halted Mr.
Bourne and Jackey overtook us, loaded with cockatoos, of which they had
shot as many as they wanted as the flock did not fly away. Distance today
eleven and a half miles.
February 26.
Jemmy and Jackey went out early for the horses. Shortly after noon they
returned having only found a portion of them. They brought back two
snakes and ate them for dinner. Jackey was bitten by one of the reptiles
but so slightly that he did not think anything of it. Snakes are rare in
this part of the country. In my last expedition to the south-west I only
remember having seen one. In the evening Fisherman brought in the
remainder of the horses. The weather was showery, accompanied by
northerly wind for the greater part of the day.
February 27. Number 14 Camp, situated on the right bank of the Flinders
River at a point about seven miles south-east and by south from Fort
Bowen.
The weather during the night was showery, accompanied by northerly wind.
Left camp at 8.40. At 10.5, having crossed a plain in sight of the trees
on the banks of the river in an easterly course for three and
three-quarter miles, sighted hills, named by me Mount Brown and Mount
Little. At 11.40 came south-east and by east towards Mount Little for
four and a half miles, and reached a watercourse full of water from the
east. At 12.15, having come one and a half miles further in the same
direction, we halted till 12.30 for Jackey, who had gone to waterholes
surrounded by springs and clumps of tea-trees for the purpose of shooting
ducks. Jemmy and I left the party to ascend Mount Little, which is nearer
to the river than Mount Brown. We reached Mount Little in about a mile
and rode to its rocky summit. Its elevation is about fifty feet. The
rocks looked like granite, but on a closer inspection I found they were
of a stratified formation. From the mount nothing was observable except
Fort Bowen, Mount Brown, a little rise, and extensive thinly wooded
plains. Fort Bowen bore 58 degrees west of north, the small rise south
and by east. I built here a small cairn and scratched with a mussel shell
which I picked up at a blacks' camp (having no knife) my initials and a
broad arrow. Started again at 1.30 after the rest of the party, who had
gone on ahead. At 2.30 came south and by east half east, partly on the
tracks and partly with the main party, over thinly wooded plains for four
miles. At 2.30 came south one and three-quarter miles and encamped. I
never saw finer-looking herbage than that along our path today. If it
always rained when the grass required moisture this would be one of the
best places, if not altogether the best, in Australia.
February 28. Camp 15, situated on the right bank of the Flinders River at
a point about six miles south and by east from Mount Little and Mount
Brown.
Near this point the water in the river is deep with tea-trees growing
near, a good sign that the water is permanent. Last night we had a sudden
and heavy shower of rain. Fisherman and Jackey were not prepared for it,
consequently they got all their clothes and bedding wet; this however was
rather a subject of merriment than otherwise. We left camp at 8.8. At
8.55, having come east-south-east for two miles up the river, over rich
level ground, thinly wooded with box and (what I take to be) excoecaria,
and green with the following herbage: roley-poley, pigweed, saltbush, and
grass to plains. At 11.15 came five and three-quarter miles in the same
direction across plains intersected from the east by shallow
watercourses, outlets of the river during floods. At 12, having remained
behind the party with Jemmy, I got the following observation on a plain
horizon of about a mile in length, namely, meridian altitude of the sun
78 degrees; latitude 19 degrees 51 minutes 7 seconds. Started again at
7.43 and came east-south-east four miles on the tracks of our party along
an unwooded plain with plenty of old grass on it, now green from the
recent wet weather; and along a low sandy ridge, green with grass and
brushwood. This land evidently retains the moisture better than that of
the country down the river. At 2.40 came south-east and by east one and
three-quarter miles over level, well-grassed, and thinly-wooded land,
with the exception of a sandhill wooded with bauhinia. At 3.45 came south
one and a half miles over poor sandy land, badly grassed and thickly
wooded. At 4.15 came south-west and by south one and a half miles over
level country covered with roley-poley, pigweed, saltbush, and young
grass, and wooded with box and western-wood acacia to water, and
encamped. Distance eighteen and a quarter miles.
March 1. Camp 16, situated on the right bank of the Flinders River.
Left same this morning at 8.40. At 10.30 travelled five miles
east-south-east on an average course along the right bank of the river
over rich level land covered with roley-poley, pigweed, grass, and
saltbush, and wooded with box, terminalia, and other trees. At 11.20 came
south-east and by east over land such as I have just described for two
and a quarter miles. Halted with Jemmy and on a short plain horizon made
the following observation, namely, meridian altitude of the sun 77
degrees 27 minutes; latitude 20 degrees 3 minutes 30 seconds. At 12.23
started on the tracks of our party. At 12.58 came one and three-quarter
miles over sandy level land on which I observed, amongst other grasses,
tufts of kangaroo-grass. At 1.30, when we had come south-east one and a
half miles over an unwooded plain and very rich soil covered with
roley-poley, pigweed, saltbush, and luxuriant young grass, we overtook
our party. At 2.20 came south-east and east over an unwooded well-grassed
plain to a watercourse from the east, with long holes of water. Here a
black was observed in the distance. As this was the first whom we had
seen since leaving the depot, and as I never had observed tracks on
either this expedition or the one to the south-west which a thundershower
would not efface, I think there cannot be many blacks in the country near
the Gulf of Carpentaria. At 3 came east-south-east over rich low plains
with large patches of saltbush for two miles. At 3.35 came
south-south-east over slightly undulating land with abundance of grass,
and slightly wooded with trees and bushes, for two miles to a watercourse
from the east. On the country I have just mentioned grow bushes like the
garden-box, loaded with fruit pleasant to the taste. We broke branches
and ate the berries as we rode along. At 4.23 came up the watercourse a
quarter of a mile and crossed. This was a matter of difficulty as it was
boggy. At 5.20 came over rich level country with boggy watercourses from
the east and encamped. Distance today twenty and a quarter miles.
March 2. Camp 17, situated on the right bank of the Flinders River.
Tea-trees here fringe the channel which looks permanently watered.
Although this was Sunday we came up the river. I thought it as well to do
so, Mr. Bourne and Jackey, while they were away from our party shooting,
having observed a strong body of blacks. We started at 9 a.m. At 11 came
south-east and by east over rich level land, grassed with herbage and
wooded with box and bauhinia. At 11.15 came south half a mile and
encamped. It rained heavily so the work of packing up, saddling, packing
the horses, driving them over sloppy, boggy ground, unpacking them, and
making a fire with wet wood was anything but pleasant employment.
Distance today five miles.
March 3.
It rained so heavily that we remained here. The ground was so soft that
the horses, much as they are inclined for rambling, did not go further
away than a quarter of a mile.
March 4.
We started this morning at 8.20. Came east three-quarters of a mile over
rich level ground with a few trees upon it. The ground was so soft from
the rain that the horses were with difficulty driven along. From
following each other in single file and sinking at every step to their
fetlocks the track they made was so deep that it will not be easily
effaced. At 10.50 came south-east for five miles and a half across rich
plains with the greenest herbage; the plains separated from each other by
wooded land with shallow streams flowing to the northward. At 11.35 came
south-south-east two and a quarter miles up along a shallow stream with
slightly wooded plains on its banks. Here Jemmy and I stayed behind the
party and got the following observation, namely, meridian altitude of the
sun 76 degrees 3 minutes, latitude 20 degrees 19 minutes. At 12.45 came
across the plain on the tracks of the party two and a quarter miles. At
2.35 came at a quicker pace, as the ground was harder, for two and a half
miles south-east and by east, and crossed a shallow watercourse with
box-trees along its margin coming from the south. At 3.30 travelled over
rich plains separated from each other by wooded land with watercourses
from the south for one and a half miles south-east and by south. At 4
came half a mile south-east and by south over thickly-wooded land and
overtook our party where they had formed their encampment. Jemmy, Jackey
and Fisherman were very successful in collecting food for their supper.
On the plains they caught a great number of rats, and near here they
caught five possums. Distance today eighteen and a half miles.
March 5. Camp 19, situated on the right bank of Flinders River.
The horses having rambled a considerable distance out on the plain Jemmy
and Jackey were a long time bringing them to camp, and we did not manage
to start this morning until 9.3. At 10 came over two kinds of
well-grassed country in an east and north direction for three miles, the
first part wooded with box and bauhinia, the second a plain between belts
of timber. At 11 came east-south-east across a plain to some extent
overrun with roley-poley to a deep stream flowing to the north. Here I
swam across to the opposite bank to a plain which appeared beautifully
level and made on it the meridian altitude of the sun 75 degrees 36
minutes, latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes. Started again at 12.50 and came
up along the stream in a south-east direction one and a half miles over
well grassed land wooded with box to the outlet of a stream from the
river and encamped. Distance today seven and a quarter miles.
March 6. Camp 20, situated on the left bank of a northern channel of the
Flinders River.
The water having fallen greatly since yesterday we carried the saddles
and packs over and then led the horses. As the northern bank was boggy we
had to apply the whip severely to some of the horses to get them to
ascend it. At 9.57 a.m., having packed the horses, we started. At 10.58
came east and by south up along the left bank of a watercourse with a
thin margin of box-trees for three miles. At 11.12 Jemmy and I left the
party and came south for three-quarters of a mile across a plain to the
right bank of the river where, halting, I made the meridian altitude of
the sun 75 degrees 6 minutes, latitude 20 degrees 31 minutes. At 12.40
came half a mile north-east. At 1.12 come along a plain in a south-east
and by east direction one and a half miles to a deeper and broader outlet
from the river than the one we crossed in the morning. Overtook our party
here and assisted to unsaddle and unpack. The horses were then driven
into the stream and swum across. Afterwards we pulled the saddles and
packs across with a rope and encamped. We adopted the following plan for
taking them over the river. We attached the articles to the middle of a
rope and passed one end of it over the fork of a tree on the southern
bank; one end of the rope being pulled with sufficient force to keep the
goods clear of the water, and the other end pulled with much greater
force, the goods were safely landed on the southern bank. This would have
been accomplished easily if we had had a pulley, but as we had none it
took hard pulling to make the rope travel. The country we passed over has
the same rich character as the land I described yesterday. Distance today
four and a quarter miles.
March 7. Camp 21, situated on right bank of Flinders River.
Knowing that plains with just a sufficiency of trees for firewood and
shade has proved better than any other for pastoral purposes, this
country delighted me; but I must say it would please me more if there
were a few high hills in the distance. I was however charmed with the
landscape around the camp this morning. In the foreground I saw fine box,
excoecaria, and other trees festooned with beautiful cumbering creepers,
and beyond them the horses feeding on a fine grassy plain extending to
the north and eastward to apparently distant blue mountains. As the day
advanced this picture unfortunately lost a portion of its beauty by the
disappearance of anything like mountains in the distant horizon. We
started at 8.14 a.m.; and at 11.40 came east for ten miles along a plain
behind the wooded country near the river, but further back it is either
covered with roley-poley and pigweed or with young grasses which I am
afraid are annuals. Yet notwithstanding these drawbacks it is a very fine
country, and if care is taken by the future occupiers not to overstock it
sheep and cattle will do remarkably well upon it. When it is occupied it
should be improved by having seeds sown during the beginning of the wet
season to produce plants with deep roots which will take the place of the
annuals. If this was done and tanks and wells made in the back country
the land would probably carry at least twice the quantity of stock it
could now; but to get improvements of that character made a freehold
tenure would probably be required. At 11.40 Jemmy and I waited behind the
main party on this extensive plain and made an observation of the sun,
namely, meridian altitude 74 degrees 34 minutes; latitude 20 degrees 37
minutes 30 seconds. Started on the track of our companions at 12.10; at
2.14 came south-east and by east for six miles over well-grassed plains
and overtook the main party. At a shallow watercourse surrounded by
rushes and polygonum I got off my horse to get a drink and carelessly let
him out of my hands. In a second he scampered off to the other horses.
Jackey however soon brought him back to me. At 2.50 came south-east for
about three-quarters of a mile and encamped. Distance this day sixteen
and three-quarter miles.
March 8. Camp 22, situated on the right bank of the Flinders River.
The river presents here a fine sheet of water; the channel has the
appearance of draining a large tract of country and is as large-looking
as the Nogoa River at its junction with the Comet River. Left camp this
morning at 8.1; at 8.55 came east and by south for two and three-quarter
miles along a plain behind the wooded country skirting the river to an
eastern channel of the river and delayed five minutes to get water; at
11.40 came north-east a mile and a half; then east five and a quarter
miles over gently undulating rich land, green with herbage and wooded
with box; crossed a small creek near its junction with the river; Jemmy
and I here left the party and cantered for two miles in a north-east
direction over high undulating rich ground with fine grass to a point
commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country. To the eastward
I observed about ten miles distant a line of wooded country which
probably fringes a stream flowing parallel to the Flinders River. Having
halted here I got the following observation, namely: meridian altitude of
the sun 74 degrees 8 minutes; latitude 20 degrees 48 minutes. Jemmy and I
started to overtake the party at 12.10; at 12.35 came south-east and by
east over well-grassed land for one and a quarter mile and observed the
recent tracks of a steer or cow; at 1.23 came south-east two and a
quarter miles to the river over two kinds of country--the first rich
undulating ground with good grass, the second clay flats covered with
grass and salt herbs and wooded with box. In that short distance we
crossed two watercourses from the east with good holes of water. Not
having found the tracks of our party we steered west-north-west and at
2.3, when we had ridden about two miles, we found them waiting for us. As
there was water and good grass here we encamped. Distance today sixteen
miles and three-quarters.
March 9.
As this was Sunday we rested ourselves and the horses; I make it a rule
to fare better on Sunday than on other days so we had for breakfast
damper, meat, and pigweed; for lunch, pea soup, and for dinner, cold rice
and jam. The country in this neighbourhood I named Hervey Downs.
March 10.
Today Mr. Bourne, Fisherman, and Jackey went in search of the beast that
I had seen traces of on Saturday.
March 11.
Mr. Bourne, Fisherman, and Jackey returned. From Mr. Bourne I got the
following report of their expedition:
After following the tracts of the beast for about two miles down the
river they found it had crossed and travelled out on the plains in a
south-easterly direction; followed tracts for twenty miles to where they
turned nearly east. Up to this point they found water in several places
but, in running the tracks for fifteen or twenty miles further, found
none, and very reluctantly turned back (feeling satisfied that the beast
had got too much start of them) at 4 p.m. to water and encamped. They had
no rations excepting an iguana and a few mussels. These downs consist of
loose brown loam, thickly covered with ironstone pebbles, and would be
very good country if the roley-poley were not so prevalent.
March 12. Camp 23, situated on the left bank of a shallow creek.
A carbine with a broken lock, belonging to Jemmy, the police-trooper, was
left behind here. We started this morning at 8.25; at 8.50 came
south-east and by east one and a quarter mile and crossed the river at a
place where the water has a fall of several feet over flags of sandstone;
at 11.40 came east over rich well-wooded downs for eight and a quarter
miles. Jemmy and I having left our party and come about half a mile
south, I made the following observation, namely: meridian altitude 72
degrees 33 seconds; latitude 20 degrees 41 minutes. Started after party
at 12.20. At 1.27 came east half north for two and a half miles over rich
undulating land to a watercourse. These downs are so sparse of trees that
a small belt of brushwood on the top of an eminence was a remarkable
feature. It is situated about a mile this side of the spot from which I
made my observation; at 3.20, when we had come up the creek on an average
south-east and by east direction for five and a half miles, we encamped.
The country we have seen today has decidedly undulating features and a
rich soil. Some of the flats were covered with roley-poley but the rest
of the country was grassed. Distance today eighteen and three-quarter
miles.
March 13. Camp 24, situated on the left bank of a broad shallow
watercourse named by me O'Connell Creek.
Started this morning at 7.35. When we had ridden up the creek about four
miles we found the tracks of the beast that Mr. Bourne tracked
south-easterly from the 23rd camp. After coming backwards and forwards
for some time we crossed O'Connell Creek, then came about three and a
half miles to the left bank of the Flinders River and abandoned the
tracks of the beast as they were going down the river. We followed up the
river for about four and a half miles. The first part of that distance it
was confined by stony ridges, wooded with acacias and other trees; in the
second part were large box flats with unwooded rising ground behind. From
our path along the rising ground we observed in the distance a number of
blacks near the river; and also observed, ahead of us to the eastward, a
long blue range which I found afterwards confined the river on its right
side. I named it Bramston Range. Afterwards we came over well-grassed
country of a similar character to that I have described last for about
five and three-quarter miles and encamped. All the country we have seen
today is well grassed with the exception of a few plains overrun with
roley-poley. I may remark also that birds, chiefly consisting of pigeons,
cockatoos, quail, and hawks, were seen in great abundance. Today we
travelled in the following courses: 7.35 south-south-east for four miles
up O'Connell's Creek; 1.35 north and by east for three and a half miles
to the river, east-south-east four and a quarter miles up the river; 3.30
east half north for five and three-quarter miles; 3.50 north-east one
mile. Distance today eighteen and a half miles.
March 14. Camp 25 situated on the left bank of a western channel of the
Flinders River.
We started this morning at 7.37. When we had come seven miles over rich
well-grassed downs we observed a great number of blacks on a level flat
which extended to the southward. Mr. Bourne and I approached them and
they all ran away except some gins and children who hid themselves in a
waterhole. We remained near them for a short time and were joined by
Jemmy and Jackey. The gins and children soon abandoned their hiding-place
and assembled on the bank, where they had their coolamons filled with
rats. The old gins repeatedly offered the wives of the men who had run
away to us. Amongst the females whom I observed was a girl about ten
years old with a large bone stuck through the cartilage of her nose. We
declined the offer, although I daresay Jackey would have liked to have
taken one of the ratcatchers with him: but Jemmy said he would not, as he
does not approve of wedded life. He has seen it, I presume, under
disadvantageous circumstances. The young gins had fine eyes, white teeth,
and good expression. The children looked particularly lively and
intelligent. Jemmy understood a few words of their language but not
sufficient to get information from them. Their word for water, cammo, I
caught while we were getting them to fill our pint pots with water. After
bidding them farewell Mr. Bourne and Jackey proceeded after the
packhorses and Jemmy and I went up the flat to a place about three and a
half miles south of Bramston Range and, having halted, I made the
meridian altitude of the sun 71 degrees 45 minutes; latitude 20 degrees
29 minutes 16 seconds. Started after the main party at 12.20. We soon
found them as they had been obliged to stop to repair a saddle. Having
started again we came one and a quarter miles over rich downs very much
overrun with roley-poley. As we had been getting too far away from the
river we steered towards it, and having reached water in two and a half
miles we encamped. The country we passed over last consists of
well-grassed downs. In the water we got plenty of mussels which made an
agreeable addition to our rations. Distance today seventeen and a half
miles by the following courses: 11.50 east-south-east seven miles; 12
south one and a half miles; 1.16 east-north-east one and a half miles;
2.40 east-south-east four and a quarter miles; 3.30 east-north-east two
and a half miles; 3.45 north-east and by east three-quarters of a mile.
March 15. Camp 26 situated near a creek named by me Sloane Creek, at a
point about three miles south-east from Bramston Range.
Started this morning at 8.15. Having come one mile and a half we reached
a small hill bearing 2 degrees 84 minutes from the south-west end of
Bramston Range and 50 minutes from table ranges up the river. On this
hill Jemmy and I stopped for some time and then proceeded after the main
party. Following their track led us over rich, high, unwooded downs for
five and three-quarter miles to a creek with a shallow broad channel.
This stream evidently flows towards the river. I named it Walker Creek.
After crossing Walker Creek we came over high downs for about twelve
miles, and having found water we encamped. Towards the river the country
is wooded with a kind of myall, but not the drooping acacia. Amongst it
the horses have gone to feed in preference to the open country. The
ground on this side of Walker's Creek is composed of a reddish soil with
occasionally detached pieces of basalt. It is covered with the best
grasses, the highest portions thinly wooded with small trees, amongst
which I observed white-wood, myall, and Port Curtis sandalwood. The Port
Curtis sandalwood has been exported, but as far as I have been able to
learn was not a profitable article. However it is first-rate for
firewood, giving a better light than other woods, and the perfume it
emits is disliked by mosquitoes. From our path today we observed that the
right side of the river was confined by wooded ranges extending without
prominent features from Bramston Range to table ranges near here. We
travelled on the following courses: 8.50 east and by north one and a half
miles to a little hill; 10.15 north-east and by east for three miles;
11.10 east-north-east two and three-quarter miles to Walker Creek; 3.10
north-east twelve miles to encampment. Distance today seventeen and
three-quarter miles.
March 16.
Today Fisherman and I left the party in camp to ascend the lowest down of
the three table ranges on the right bank of the Flinders River. We
reached the left bank of the river in a north-north-east direction in
about two miles and a half. The river has a sandy level bed which is
about eighty yards wide. After crossing the river Fisherman marked a
gumtree growing at the bottom of the bank E broad arrow over L. From the
river we reached the base of the range in rather less than a mile. I
expected to find it of a sandstone formation with triodia on its surface,
but on ascending the range I found that, although it had a sandstone
formation, it was covered with a dark perforated basalt and at other
places with rich soil and good grass. From the summit I observed that the
river was joined at a short distance above this range by a tributary to
the south-east, and that the following hills bore in the directions
named: A high distant table range which I have named after Frederick
Walker, Esquire, my brother explorer, 130 degrees; a table range
three-quarters of a mile distant 90 degrees; a table range about three
miles distant 45 degrees; three conical hills on a range about seven
miles distant respectively 44, 43 and 39 degrees; a tent-topped hill
about seven miles distant 22 1/2 degrees; a hill with an irregular top
about nineteen miles distant 20 degrees; Bramston Range 245 degrees;
encampment 195 degrees. After descending the range we proceeded to the
junction of the creek and marked trees on both sides of the river just
above its junction. Between the hill and the river we found marjoram, a
plant that we have been searching for since we got our last supply at the
Leichhardt River, to use as a substitute for tea; and also found--what
interested us much more--the old tracks of an expedition party. The
tracks were very indistinct but, as Fisherman succeeded in following them
for a short distance to the north-west, I suppose that they were the
tracks of Walker's party when on their way from the Nogoa to the Albert
River.
March 17. Camp 27, situated on the left bank of a southern outlet from
the Flinders River at a point about five miles south-south-west from the
table-topped ranges on the opposite side of the river.
The horses were so much scattered that almost the whole of the forenoon
was spent in bringing them in. The main party left camp rather before
noon. Jemmy and I stayed behind to get an observation of the sun. Started
on the tracks of our party at 12.20. We came along unwooded, well-grassed
land at the back of country wooded with myall for three and a half miles,
then over country more overrun with roley-poley but otherwise of a
similar character for two miles to the termination of the myall. Here I
observed that we were about four and a half miles west from the end of a
range, which I suppose confines the river on its right bank, and
north-west from Frederick Walker's Table Mountain. After coming four and
a half miles we reached a place where there was plenty of good water and
grass with a high bank and encamped, as Gleeson was very unwell. The last
distance--four and a half miles--was over unwooded downs covered with
barley and other grasses. Came on the following courses: 1.30 south-east
three and a half miles; east-south-east two miles. 3.40 east-south-east
four and a half miles. Distance come today ten miles.
March 18. Camp 28, situated near the left side of a watercourse of the
Flinders River at a point bearing 130 degrees from Frederick Walker's
Table Mountain.
The horses were scattered almost as much as they were yesterday morning
and the most of the forenoon was spent in mustering them. Started at
10.35. When we had gone towards Frederick Walker's Table Mountain for
three miles Jemmy and I left our path on the high ground and went down on
a flat extending to the northward for about two miles, where, taking an
observation, I made the meridian altitude of the sun 70 degrees 13
minutes, latitude 20 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds. Started after the
main party at 12.15. Having ridden seven miles we reached Frederick
Walker's Table Mountain and ascended it. From its high summit I observed
that stretching across part of the horizon there was nothing to be seen
but plains. Along another part, on the south-eastern side, there was a
succession of ranges from which we bore in the following way: From the
end of the ranges in the distance 151 degrees; a distant range 147
degrees; a red rocky hill about seven miles distant 140 degrees; a table
range about one and a half miles distant 103 degrees; a high distant
conical hill, the one that I probably saw from the table range near 27
Camp, 5 degrees; the table ranges 310 degrees. We were thirsty and as we
did not know how far our party would have to go to get water for the
encampment I spent as little time as possible in making observations.
Having started after the main party we overtook them just as it was
getting dark. They had gone round the mountain and, as they had not found
water, they were proceeding to the north-east in search of it. Continuing
the same course we reached at 8 p.m. water and encamped. The land we
passed over today is good; the soil is a rich reddish loam. The country
consists of downs luxuriantly covered with good grasses except at places
which are overrun with roley-poley. These downs are thinly wooded in
places with myall, white-wood, and Port Curtis sandalwood. Frederick
Walker's Table Mountain is of a sandstone formation and is covered at
places with triodia. On the southern side of it there is a dry
watercourse which rises from the northward. At many places in coming up
this river we have observed a most interesting vine which produced pods
of beautiful silky cotton. As the pods were pleasant to eat we were on
the continual lookout for it. Distance today about eighteen miles.
March 19. Camp 29, situated on flat ground on the left side of a small
watercourse at a point bearing in the following way from the following
ranges: one end of Frederick Walker's Table Mountain about five miles
distant, the other end about four miles distant, 245 degrees; one end of
a table range about one and a half miles distant from Frederick Walker's
Table Mountain 199 degrees; the other end 192 degrees; the end of a long
table range 160 degrees.
Jemmy was so unwell this morning that we had to delay some time before he
could proceed. Started at 9.52 a.m. Having come three miles north-east we
waited for some time as Gleeson was too unwell to travel. Afterwards we
proceeded about two miles and encamped. The land we saw today was on the
whole well grassed; the flattest portions of it are wooded with myall,
Port Curtis sandalwood, and western-wood acacia. The country looking from
the unwooded plains is beautiful and with luxuriant herbage; the
surrounding isolated ranges lends an interest to the scenery. The river
has here a sandy channel about 120 paces wide with a shallow stream
meandering along its almost level surface.
March 20.
Camp 30, situated on the left bank of the Flinders River at the
north-west base of an isolated range bearing the following way from the
following ranges: one end of Frederick Walker's Table Mountain about
eight miles distant 2 degrees 36 minutes; the other end 2 degrees 23
minutes; a range about six miles distant 209 degrees; a little isolated
hill 193 degrees; north-west end of a table range about five miles
distant 189 degrees; north-west end of a table range about two miles
distant 174 degrees; south-east end 149 degrees. This morning I was glad
to find that Gleeson and Jemmy had recovered sufficiently to start on the
journey. We started at 10.12. After crossing the river we followed it up
on its opposite bank in an east direction for one and a half miles and
crossed it at the end of the range on the left bank. We then followed up
a creek I named Jardine's Creek in a north-east and east direction for
five miles and encamped. From camp Fisherman and I went west-north-west
for two miles and a half to the top of a range bearing as described from
the following ranges: a distant conical range (probably the one observed
from near 27 Camp) 3 degrees 48 minutes; the end of Frederick Walker's
Table Mountain 245 degrees; the other end 238 degrees; the place where
Fisherman thought Jardine's Creek joined the river 255 degrees. The
country we saw from our path along the right bank of the river was not,
of course, extensive, but what we saw was flat, covered with long grass,
and wooded with bloodwood and gum. These trees were the largest I have
seen in this part of the country, and almost the only ones I have seen
since leaving the depot at all well-adapted for building purposes. The
country in the valley of Jardine's Creek is most beautiful. It is thickly
grassed and in some parts without trees; in others thinly wooded or
wooded with clumps of trees. The hills on both sides of the valley are
picturesque. Distance today six and a half miles.
March 21.
Fisherman and I left camp this morning and went south-east for fourteen
miles. The first four miles took us over the range to the head of a
creek, the next five miles down the creek, and the next five miles to the
left of the creek. We then went south-west to the creek and selected a
place for the next encampment. Then, returning to depot camp, we followed
up the creek, and it took us in a north half west direction for five
miles to our outward tracks. Then, returning by our track to camp, we
reached it by travelling for an hour after dark. In going and returning
we spent nearly twelve hours on horseback. At camp I was sorry to learn
that Gleeson was still very unwell. The country on the other side of the
range is nearly level; back from the creek it is chiefly overgrown with
triodia and wooded with ironbark. The ironbark-trees are the first I have
seen on this expedition. Near the creek and at some places for a mile
back from it the soil is rich with luxuriant good grass, except at places
where it is thickly wooded with western-wood acacia and Port Curtis
sandalwood where the herbage is not so rank, but the saltbush amongst it
is a good sign of its having the most fattening qualities. The ranges on
the southern side of the valley are not so good as the ranges on the
northern side, the former are more sandy and are not so well covered with
rich basaltic soil.
March 22. Camp 31, situated on the right bank of Jardine Creek at a point
about five miles above its junction with Flinders River.
Started this morning at 10.20; at 3.20 p.m. reached the place I had
chosen yesterday for our encampment and unsaddled. Gleeson had so much
recovered that he did not complain of fatigue during the day's journey.
Distance today fourteen miles.
March 23.
As this was Sunday we rested ourselves and horses. Gleeson and Jemmy
still unwell; the former very weak and complaining of want of appetite
and sleep.
March 24.
Today we followed the creek down for about fifteen miles and
three-quarters and encamped at a fine waterhole. All along the creek
there are fine deep waterholes. The channel is a kind of sandstone
formation, particularly good for retaining water. About eight miles above
here the creek is joined by another watercourse, about the same size,
from the north-west. I have named it Coxen Creek. The country is not so
level as it is higher up the creek. The soil is very good with grass,
saltbush, and herbs. Sheep or cattle will do well on it but it will not
carry much stock to its acreage as it is confined at many places by
ridges with triodia and only a small proportion of other grasses. Triodia
is certainly better than nothing, as stock will eat it when it is young,
and at other times will eat it rather than starve. The best part of the
country is thickly wooded with acacia and other small trees. This would
not be objectionable where blacks were quiet and where it is not
necessary at times to run sheep in large flocks; but in the first
occupation of the country it will be so, as labour will probably be
scarce. We travelled today at our usual pace from 8.27 a.m. to 1.55 p.m.
Gleeson was so much recovered that he did not complain of fatigue. We
came here on the following courses: 9.27 south-east for two and
three-quarter miles; 11.10 south-south-east five miles to the junction of
Coxen Creek; 1.55 south-south-east eight miles.
March 25.
Started at 8.15 this morning. Came down the right bank of the creek for
about fifteen miles and encamped at 2.53. The creek has fine deep holes
of water. The channel generally is confined by sandstone at places by
shelving rocks a few feet high and inaccessible for horses. Here the
channel is broad and sandy; about seven miles below the last camp it is
joined by a smaller watercourse from the north-west named by me Raff
Creek. The country we saw from our path was mostly good. It consists of
well-grassed, thinly-wooded flats, separated from each other by belts of
Port Curtis sandalwood, bauhinia, and other small trees, and at other
places by low ridges with triodia. The country in the immediate
neighbourhood consists of low ridges of poor soil with numerous rocky
gullies. These ridges are chiefly wooded with ironbak and grassed with
triodia. We traversed down the creek in the following way: 9.25
south-south-east three and a quarter miles; 11.4 south two and
three-quarter miles to Raff Creek; 1.30 south five and three-quarter
miles; 2.10 south-east and by south one and a quarter miles to a small
creek from the north-west; 3.54 south two miles to here.
March 26.
We left camp this morning at 8.45. When we had travelled at our usual
pace till 1.45 we encamped at a small creek from the north-east. We
stopped here as we found dray-tracks near the creek that I wanted to
trace. After unsaddling Fisherman and I traced them a short distance to
the north-east. The tracks were made probably by the parties who have
occupied Bowen Downs. Bowen Downs is a fine tract of country that Mr. N.
Buchanan and I discovered about two years ago. The country we passed over
today is easily described. It is undulating poor land of a sandstone
formation, grassed with triodia and wooded with ironbark and bloodwood.
Having left the creek on which we encamped last night our course today
took us back onto high ground from which, descending, we reached this by
the following courses: 11.45 south-south-west eight and three-quarter
miles; 1.45 south five and three-quarter miles. Distance come today
fourteen and a half miles. In a waterhole near camp Mr. Bourne caught a
great quantity of small fish, an agreeable addition to our fare, and from
the same waterhole Fisherman got a quantity of mussels for our breakfast
tomorrow.
March 27. Camp 35, situated on the right bank of a small well-watered
creek at a point about half a mile above its junction with a larger creek
from the north-west.
Jackey and I left camp this morning at 9. When we had gone down the creek
in a southerly direction for two and three-quarter miles we left it and
went west, expecting to find the tracks of our party as I had asked Mr.
Bourne to steer south-south-west; but, not finding the tracks, we
returned to camp and reached it at 1.15. At camp we learned that the
horses were only mustered a few minutes before our arrival. In my ride
with Jackey down the creek I saw the recent tracks of a cow or steer
(probably made by the beast that had been on the Flinders River). I would
have tried to have found the beast with a view of killing it for the
benefit of our party, but from seeing the dray-tracks near the camp I
thought this was unnecessary as I was convinced we were near a station.
Before leaving the subject of the beast I may mention that it may have
been taken from the Darling to one of the stations on the head of the
Burdekin and, having strayed from there to the Flinders River, was now on
its way back. Started from camp at 1.45 p.m. When we had come a mile we
crossed a creek flowing to the northward. On both sides of the creek
there are stony ranges grassed with triodia and wooded with ironbark.
After leaving the creek we crossed the ridges and came on land with a
good deal of rich soil and wooded with belts of myall, Port Curtis
sandalwood, and western-wood acacia. About these scrubs the grass is very
good and there is a luxuriant undergrowth of saltbush and salt herbs.
When we had come four miles from camp we sighted to the south-west a
small isolated hill and went towards it. When we had crossed about three
and a half miles over country like what I have just described we reached
the isolated hill and Mr. Bourne and I ascended it. It is surrounded by
rich, well-grassed, high downs, wooded at places with small belts of
myall. The shape of the hill is like an artificial mound with the ruins
of a tower on its summit. It is so like a hill I saw when I was last on
Bowen Downs that I almost fancied it the same. The hills in this
neighbourhood however do not correspond with those in my chart. About
four and a half miles to the north-north-west we observed two
table-topped hills, and in the distance to the south-south-east a hill
which may be the Simon Pure Tower-hill. From the hill we came east half
north two and a half miles and encamped.
March 28.
We started this morning at 8.55. When we had come about sixteen miles we
reached Tower-hill. On its summit I found a small tree that I remembered
Mr. N. Buchanan had marked L when on my first expedition to this part of
the country. Almost half the way to Tower-hill was wooded with myall and
western-wood acacia. In the middle of that wooded country we crossed a
range and observed unwooded downs to the right of our path. The remainder
of the way was rich undulating ground slightly wooded with trees and
grassed with the best grasses. To the left of our course there was low
ground wooded at places with box, and at other places with western-wood
acacia. From the range in the first part of the way Tower-hill bore
south-east and by south, and a little range south-south-east (the latter
is about one and a half miles west-south-west from Tower-hill). After
descending Tower-hill we came half a mile and encamped. In a waterhole
near camp Mr. Bourne and I while bathing found mussels in abundance; but
as our caterers, of whom Mr. Bourne was the chief, had shot two turkeys
we did not gather any mussels. We came on the following courses: 10.30
south four miles to a range; 12 south-south-east two and three-quarter
miles to open downs; 2.45 south-east eight and a quarter miles to
Tower-hill; east half a mile to encampment. Distance today sixteen and a
half miles.
March 29.
From last camp we reached Landsborough's Creek in twenty-three and a half
miles. I expected today to have reached a station that Mr. Buchanan when
I left Brisbane told me he intended forming on this creek. I told my
party to expect that we would here get fresh provisions. When we had
travelled upwards of ten miles from last camp, and in that distance only
saw the appearance of a single horse track, I came to the conclusion that
Mr. Buchanan had taken no stock up the creek, and changed our course so
as to strike it lower down. Further on Mr. Bourne, Gleeson, and I felt
confident we were on stocked country; but this impression was soon
changed by Fisherman telling us that he believed the grass had been eaten
off by grasshoppers. The country we crossed today is a rich soil and is
wooded along the watercourses with box, and at other places with a few
bushes. Near the creek the land is flat and badly grassed, but back from
the creek the land is undulating and well grassed. From our path we saw
on both sides of us table ranges which gave a charm to the landscape. We
came here on the following courses: 11.20 south-west and by south eight
miles; 12.10 west one mile; 12.48 south-south-west one and three-quarter
miles; 1.20 south one and a half miles; 2.35 south-east three and
three-quarter miles; 5.25 south seven and a half miles.
March 30.
This being Sunday we rested ourselves and horses.
March 31. Camp 38 situated on the left side of Landsborough's Creek at a
place about two miles north of a table range on the opposite bank.
We started this morning at 10.25. When we had followed down the left bank
of the creek we crossed Cornish Creek a short distance above its junction
with Landsborough's Creek. It had been recently flooded, and although the
ford was a good one the stream was still about three feet deep. Below the
junction of this creek the watercourse is called Landsborough's River.
(Lower down we ascertained it was called the Thomson River.) On the left
bank of Cornish Creek there are wooded ranges extending for several miles
down the river. After leaving these ridges our path down the left bank of
the river went over rich undulating ground with good grass and a few
belts of box-trees. On the opposite side of the river there is a
considerable extent of wooded country. On our journey one of the packs
having partly broken loose so frightened the horse carrying it that he
galloped off, and was not recovered until he had scattered his load,
consisting of medicines and peas, broadcast on the plain. The medicine
was recovered but the bulk of the peas were lost. About ten miles before
I reached camp I made the meridian altitude of the sun 63.18, on a good
land horizon; latitude 22 degrees 27 minutes 39 seconds. We came here on
the following courses: 10.20 south-east and by east two and three-quarter
miles; 11.40 south-south-east four miles; 12.45 south-south-east two
miles to ---- Creek; 3.20 south seven and a quarter miles. Distance today
sixteen miles.
April 1.
We started this morning at eight. When we had come down along the left
bank of the river about eight miles Jemmy and I left our party and went
back to the unwooded downs. These downs extend as far as the eye can
reach to the eastward. Before we had gone far we found the recent tracks
of an exploring party, and instead of rejoining our party we followed the
tracks to see where they led, which appeared to be in the direction of
some untimbered hills on the left bank of the Aramak Creek. After leaving
the tracks we made for the river, and reached it at a point a short
distance above an old camp of mine where there is a tree marked L over
LXIX. At the river we found we had overshot our party, so we had to
follow the river up to find their encampment. Our path today went fifteen
miles over unwooded, undulating, rich ground bearing abundance of grass;
then eleven and a half miles over a country with higher undulations and
good grass, with myall, western-wood acacia and Port Curtis sandalwood.
We went by the following courses: 11.20 south eight and three-quarter
miles; 2.20 south and by east six and a half miles; 3.24 south-south-west
two and a half miles; 4.45 south-west four miles; 5.7 west one mile to
the river; 5.25 north-north-west three-quarters of a mile to marked tree;
6.30 north-west and by north three miles to encampment. Distance
travelled by Jemmy and myself today twenty-six and a half miles.
April 2.