W. LANDSBOROUGH, ESQUIRE, LEADER OF BRISBANE PARTY.

Albert River, November 18 1861.

Camp Number 2. Situated near the junction of Beames Brook.

Monday November 18.

From the Post-office Lagoon we went one and a half miles west, thence

over fine downs, chiefly wooded with acacia, two and a half miles

south-west, and reached a pond on the left bank of Beames Brook, near

which we had a dinner of young wood from a cabbage-palm-tree which

Fisherman felled near the steep bank of the running stream, at which

place we marked a tree (broad arrow before L) and likewise marked in the

same way a more conspicuous tree which stands a little further out from

the brook; thence eight miles south-west, over fine rich plains with a

good variety of grass upon them, and a few plants of saline herbs. It was

then time to encamp, as we had been travelling for five hours; we

therefore changed our course to north-west for three-quarters of a mile,

and reached a branch of the Nicholson River consisting of at least four

channels, one full of fine clear running water, on the right bank of

which we formed our Number 3 Camp.

Tuesday November 19. Camp Number 3.

The channels are shaded by drooping tea-trees, swamp-oaks, etc. As it was

unnamed on the charts I gave it the name of Gregory River. Some blacks

came up and watched the camp while we were packing. We started up the

river at 8.45 a.m.; we followed the right bank of the watercourse in a

south-south-west direction. At 9.50 we reached a fine point for a station

for stock, about two and a quarter miles by the river from camp, the

first mile and a half of which was in a south-south-west, and the last

three-quarters of a mile in a south by east direction. We could not cross

the river easily, so we kept on the right bank. At 10.20 we reached a

point on the riverbank half a mile south-west from the last. At 10.35 we

made half a mile south. At 10.45, steering south-west by south half a

mile we came to what seemed to be the junction of the creek. The course

of the river was then from south-west to north-east, so we followed it up

for three miles, where we unpacked the horses, as we wanted to water

them. The approach to the river was boggy. We stopped here and had some

dinner. On the bank marked a tree (broad arrow before L). In the

afternoon we travelled from 4.4 to 6.13, in the following courses:

At 4.20 half a mile south-west by south where we passed a fine waterhole.

At 4.40, one mile south-west by south.

At 5.5 one mile south-west.

At 5.30 one mile south-west by south.

At 5.55 one mile south-west to where we passed a broad reach of water.

At 6.10, three-quarters of a mile south-east to a point above junction of

a dry watercourse where we made our Number 4 camp. The edges of the plain

which we saw today in following up the river are of the richest soil, and

only sufficiently timbered to afford firewood for a pastoral population.

The grasses are of the best description. This is the character of the

whole of the country we have seen since we left our first camp. There is

no appearance on the country we have crossed of its having had rain for a

long time; but from the strong stream of water in the river I think there

must have been plenty of rain on the country higher up. I saw today, on

several low places, saltbush which the horses ate, of a kind I have often

seen in the western country from Rockhampton, but never before so near to

the coast. By following the river it has taken us nearly right on our

course towards Mount Stuart.

Wednesday November 20. Camp Number 4.

Situated on right bank of the Gregory River. Started at 8.13 a.m. and

steered south for about three miles, until 9.25; then I had to change our

course to south-south-east for about half a mile to where we tried to

cross the river, but could not find a suitable place for doing so.

Started again at 10.15 and reached at 11.15, by a south course, two and a

quarter miles to where we crossed a dry creek near its junction with the

river. We continued steering on the same course south for about one mile,

when we reached the bank of the river, and a further continuation of the

same course for one mile brought us to a place on the river where we

watered the horses. The watering-place was boggy but we could find no

better. Started again at 2.4 p.m., and at 3.30 made one and a half miles

south-south and by east; at 4 made one and a half miles in a south-east

direction, to where I went in search of a crossing-place, and in doing so

followed the river in a south-east direction for two and a half miles

without finding a place where the horses could approach even near enough

to the river to get a drink without a risk of their falling into the deep

water. We followed up the Gregory River thirteen miles by the courses I

have mentioned. We found the branding-irons did not answer for branding

trees, as it took a much longer time to do so than to mark them with a

tomahawk, so we buried them at a tree marked Dig, at the camp we left

this morning. Last night we had a potful of the young wood of the cabbage

palm, which tasted like asparagus. All the country we have seen today is

of a similar character to that described in yesterday's journal. This

afternoon we reached country on which rain had fallen recently and it was

in consequence covered with herbage so green that we did not think the

horses on it would require water during the night, so their not having

been able to approach it earlier in the day was not of any consequence.

We encamped but the night was so short and the mosquitoes so troublesome

that, what with watching and getting up at 3.45, we had hardly sufficient

sleep. I found at this time that the duties of exploring gave very little

time for fishing or shooting. At this period of our journey the sextant

was too much out of order for making sufficiently accurate observations

of the stars.

Thursday November 21. Camp Number 5.

On right bank of the Gregory River. Started at 8.30 a.m., and at 8.55 had

made along the same bank three-quarters of a mile in a south-south-east

direction; at 9.25 we made a mile further in the same direction; at 10.13

also in the same direction (south-south-east) two miles; at 10.30 changed

our course and made three-quarters of a mile south-east; at 10.45 by

following up the river we made half a mile south-east by south to a point

where I marked a tree with a broad arrow before LC+, where the river

assumed a new character. It has a broad hard bed with only a boggy spot

at the western bank. The crossing of the horses over this place was more

difficult than I expected, and had to be accomplished by strewing the

ground with grass. We started from the left bank of the river at 3.13

p.m., and at 3.40 made one mile and a quarter south and by east; at 4.18

two miles in the same direction; at 4.40 one mile south-east; at 4.54

half a mile further in the same direction; at 5.12 three-quarters of a

mile south in a fruitless search for water. Returned to the same bank by

an east-north-east line of one mile and a quarter in length, where we

encamped. The country we have seen on this side, although fine fattening

plains, is more thinly grassed and not nearly so rich as that on the

plains we saw lower down the river. At the camp we found marjoram, which

makes a pleasant drink. On this side of the river also we observed a

white stunted gum with leaves like that of the apple tree. I may mention

a few common trees which I have observed today--first, on the edges of

the river fine large tea-trees, with foliage (melaleuca) like the

drooping willow; beautiful Leichhardt-trees, pandanus, and

cabbage-palm-trees: on the banks and scattered over the plain, stunted

box, bauhinia, white cedar, and bloodwood; with the pandanus I got too

intimately acquainted for, while with merely a shirt upon me, leading a

restive horse across the river, I fell back and, rolling, got its thorns

into all parts of my body.

Friday November 22. Camp Number 6.

Situated on the left bank of the Gregory River. At 9.44 a.m. steered

south and by east for two miles, and by doing so went across a bend of

the river; at 9.58 made half a mile in a south by west direction; at

10.20 made a quarter of a mile in the same direction, to the left bank of

a watercourse, which was evidently a new one, and which I called the

Macadam, after the Secretary of the Royal Society. Stopped to fill

water-bottles and water the horses as I was afraid of the creek being dry

further up. Started again at 11.40 a.m. at a quicker pace, and at 12.10

p.m. made one mile and a half south; at 12.40 p.m. halted to adjust the

pack of a packhorse after having made one mile and a quarter further in

the same direction. Started again and at 1 p.m. made south and by west

(by following up the Macadam Creek) half a mile; at 1.20 one mile

south-west by south to where we stopped, and started again at 1.26; at

1.55 one mile south-west by south made a point near which there was water

in the Macadam Creek, and encamped.

With respect to the Macadam Creek, it is badly watered and has a dry

shallow aspect, and appears from the scarcity of flood-marks to have

seldom a stream of water in it, and I am of opinion flows chiefly through

flat country. This character of a river has in the settled parts of

Victoria, New South Wales, and Queensland, the best sheep country on its

banks; but here, where all the country is dry enough for sheep, this will

not be a qualification. Following it will be an unpleasant exchange to

the Gregory River with its beautiful stream of water, which I daresay

comes from well-watered highlands. At present the plains are dry and

parched.

The water at our encampment was very bad, in a great measure from its

being warm, shallow, and frequented by ducks and other birds. This is the

hottest day we have had. At first we thought we were going to have a

miserable camp, from the badness of the water; but in the afternoon a

fine cool breeze sprang up and at the water, or near it, we shot several

ducks, a large waterfowl, and some rose cockatoos; we had also as many

nice little figs as we liked to eat from a large shady clump of bushes

near the camp.

Saturday November 23. Camp Number 7, situated on Macadam Creek.

We started at 8.48 a.m. and at 9.23 had made two and a quarter miles in a

south-west by south direction. At 9.40 we made one mile further in the

same direction; from thence we went in a south line for one mile and a

quarter, and reached, at 10.10, at the end of that distance, a very fine

waterhole, 300 yards long and forty yards wide, very deep, with basaltic

dykes at both ends. I thought they were like white limestone. Here we

watered the horses. Started again at 10.55. At 11.55 made south along the

bed of the creek three-quarters of a mile. At 11.40 made a mile

south-west by south, where we stopped to adjust a pack, and started again

at 11.45. At 11.58 we reached in half a mile south-west by south a

waterhole in the Macadam Creek, near which there are a great many rocks

like white limestone. At this water we made another stop, and started at

12.20 p.m. At 1.3 made one mile and three-quarters south-south-west,

where we sighted the first hills we have seen since leaving the depot. We

went on the plain a quarter of a mile south-west by south to get

observations of the hills. They appeared to be twenty or thirty miles

distant. Started again at 1.37, with Fisherman, following the rest of the

party, who had gone on; and at 1.58 made three-quarters of a mile

south-west by west. At 2.6 a quarter of a mile south to a dry creek,

which we crossed. 2.40 we reached Macadam Creek in one mile and a half in

a south by east direction, where we overtook our companions. At 3 we went

in search of water up Macadam Creek three-quarters of a mile south. We

stopped to have a drink, and although the water from the leather bottles

was full of impurities we found it agreeable to our parched palates. We

started again at 3.20, and made south-west one mile to Gregory's River,

where we formed our seventh camp. The river is here a quarter of a mile

wide, running strong in two channels. It is uncrossable for horses, and

the intervening parts are crowded with fine large weeping tea-trees,

large Leichhardt-trees, tall cabbage-palm, pandanus, and other trees. It

is the finest and greenest-looking inland river I have seen in Australia,

and the country it runs through consists of rich-soiled plains, just

sufficiently wooded for pastoral purposes. Since we left the depot we

have not seen any country on which sheep would not do well, excepting

during the wettest and driest seasons. In country such as this it is a

singular fact that sheep do better, on the whole, in a wet season than on

ridgy country. With one exception, where the soil was clayey, the country

we have seen on this river is of the very richest description. At present

it is parched up, with the exception of a few patches of young grass near

the river. In many places the old grass is three feet high.

Notwithstanding the parched state of the grass, the horses have done well

upon it, indeed they could not look better if they had been corn-fed.

Sunday November 24. Camp Number 8.

We rested ourselves and the horses. Mr. Alison made a traverse table of

our course and found that we had made 55 miles south and 25 miles west

from Post Office Camp, near the junction of the Barkly with the Albert

River, and the latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes. The sun is too vertical

for taking it with my sextant and artificial horizon. We were rather late

in making observations of the sun, and we only got one sight of it, which

was made by myself. I brought it to a point within 180 yards of me on the

level bank of the river, which altitude made our latitude 18 degrees 57

minutes. Thermometer showed 90 degrees at 7 a.m. and 103 degrees at noon.

We got a fine potful of cabbage-tree sprouts, which eat like asparagus.

Monday November 25. Camp Number 8. Situated on the Gregory River.

From this camp we started at 8 a.m., but had almost immediately to halt

for ten minutes to adjust a pack on a riding-saddle. The other

packsaddles were constructed on Gregory's principle, and required less

adjusting. At 8.45 made one mile and a quarter south by west along the

bank of the river. At 9 made one mile and a half south-west by south. At

9.16 made half a mile further along the river in the same direction to

outlet of creek, which is probably what I have been calling Macadam Creek

(or River). At 9.23 made a quarter of a mile still further along the bank

of the river in the same direction, at which place hills were in sight a

short distance from our course. Fisherman and I started for the hills,

bearing 231 1/2 degrees, and in two miles we reached the hill, and from

the top of it we saw ranges from 67 to 328 degrees; but none of them were

remarkable. The hill we ascended was rocky and barren. Having taken

observations of these hills, Fisherman and I started to rejoin our

companions. The country was so parched up that Fisherman said, "Suppose

you leave him river, you won't find other fellow water." At 11.49 we made

one mile and a quarter south; at 12.10 we steered south-south-west for

about three-quarters of a mile, and reached the river, where, at a

blacks' camp, we overtook our companions. There were three gins and six

children, who were trembling with fear in and at the edge of the water.

In a short time they recovered courage, and one of the gins, to whom I

gave a red woollen neck comforter, wanted to get up behind one of my

companions, and although her advances were rejected she followed us until

Jemmy, the trooper, made signs to her to return to camp. We started again

at 12.30, and at 12.42 made half a mile south-west by west. At 12.56, by

following up the river, we made half a mile in a south-west direction. At

1.17 p.m. made three-quarters of a mile south by west along the bank of

the river. At 1.27 quarter of a mile south-west, where on the bank of the

river we had dinner, and had for salad cabbage-tree sprouts. The holes in

the river are here deep and long. Hills confine the river on both sides,

just above where we had dinner. The one on the right bank of the river I

have named Heales Ranges, and the one on the left Mount Macadam. Started

again at 4.53 p.m. At 5.20 followed up the river, one mile in a westerly

direction, over fine ridges of rich soil. At 5.27 quarter of a mile

south-west by west. At 6.25 made two and a half miles west-south-west to

left bank of the river, where we formed our ninth camp--the worst camp

the horses have had as the grass was completely burned up.

Tuesday November 26. Camp Number 9, situated on the Gregory River.

From this camp there are three hills on this side--the left--of the

river, visible from the camp; ranges bearing from north by east to north

by west I call the Hull Ranges; a hill west half south I call Mount

Moore. Fisherman and I set off when Campbell, Allison, and the horses

were all but ready to start, to go along the ranges to have a view of the

country. We went along the ranges which confine the river on the left

bank for forty-eight minutes, when we reached a point about two miles

west by south from camp. At 9.20 we started to overtake our companions.

At 10.12 made two miles and a quarter west by north, partly over ridges

of good soil, and partly over barren ridges, all of which were as dry as

a chip, to the track of our main party on the way up the river. At 10.40

made one mile southerly, and reached in that direction and distance the

bank of the river, where it washes the base of a steep hill on the

opposite side. At 11 we made three-quarters of a mile along the bank of

the river in a south-west and by west direction. At 11.12 made half a

mile west-south-west to a point on the bank where a hill on the left bank

is about quarter of a mile distant to the north-west. At 11.25 made half

a mile west-south-west to old channel of river. At 11.37 made half a mile

west along the river to a point where an isolated hill bore

west-south-west and by south. At 11.43 made quarter of a mile west and

watered our horses at the river. Started again at 12 noon. At 12.20

steered one mile west, overtook our companions, and halted to water the

horses of the main party. Started at 1 p.m., and at 1.50 made two miles

south-west by following up the river. At 2.24 made a mile and a quarter

south-west by west through a pass confined by hills on the right and the

river on the left. As soon as we got out of it we observed similar ones

on the opposite side of the river. At 2.45 made three-quarters of a mile

south-west by south to a point where we made our Number 10 camp. Today we

went up the river twelve miles and a half. During that space it is

confined more or less by ranges, which the river on either one side or

the other washes the base of when it is flooded. The troopers agree with

me in thinking that the river has the appearance of having a constant

stream of water. A small log of wood on the edge of the water I observed

was covered over with a stony substance formed by sediment from the

water. At one place in the river where we bathed the current was so

strong that it took our feet from under us in wading across. It is so

deep that it is not fordable except at the bars between the waterholes,

where it runs rapid. Its bed is full of large trees, among which I

observed gum, Leichhardt, tea, and cabbage-palm-trees. Along the edge of

the water it has a fringe of pandanus. Among the trees in the second bed

by the river there is coarse grass and other herbs. If we had seen the

country under more favourable circumstances, a short time after rain had

fallen instead of now, when the grass is dry and withered, I should have

called it most beautiful country; for, with the exception of a few barren

ranges the soil is very rich and clothed with the best of grasses. The

trees upon it are chiefly bauhinia, and stunted box and gumtrees, without

ironbark.

Wednesday November 27. Camp Number 10, situated on the banks of the

Gregory River.

Ginger, the old black horse, was missing until eleven o'clock, when the

troopers reported that they had found him in the river drowned, and

floating down with the stream. I had the horses brought down on the

previous evening to the only watering-place which was safe, but as they

were watered a few hours before they did not all of them drink so soon

again. From camp we crossed a bad gully and from it made a fair start at

11.52, having made at that place half a mile south-west by south. The

river is at this place closely confined on both sides by stony ranges; a

few drops of rain fell on us in that pass. At 12.40 p.m. made two miles

west to a small dry watercourse from the north, which is full of pandanus

at its mouth. The ranges on the left bank had on them dykes like

artificial ones, which run at different places across the hills. At 1

p.m. we made three-quarters of a mile in the same direction south to

another dry small creek from the north. At 1.14 we made half a mile west

by south to rapids with a fall of at least three feet, where the river

was still closely confined on both sides. At 1.45 made a mile south-west

to a small basaltic hill, opposite what appeared the junction of a larger

river from the west-south-west. As the crossing-place was bad in this

river the troopers and I crossed to look at the large watercourse; it was

running and so full of pandanus that we could not see it well. It might

be only another channel of the Gregory River. It has the broadest bed but

has not so much running water in it. The basaltic hill rose too close to

the river to let us pass so we had to go round it, and as soon as we had

done so we reached the junction of a creek from the north. The country

about here consists of stony barren hills and ridges, with the exception

of a few spots which have rich soil and excellent grass. There is slate

in abundance, and the country is like that of some goldfields I have

seen. At 3.40 made half a mile north-west up the creek, which has a slaty

bed, where we crossed. A little higher it has reeds and water in it. I

have called it the Stawell Creek. At 3.48 quarter of a mile south-west to

the river; we observed in crossing this point patches of triodia, or more

commonly called spinifex. The country near this part of the river is

wooded with stunted bloodwood. At 4.30 made one mile south-west up the

river. At 4.43 half a mile south-south-west to a point between river and

small basaltic hill with two little cones on the top of it, like the

cairns Mr. Stuart draws of those he made on Central Mount Stuart.

(Direction omitted, probably about south.) At 4.10 one mile and a quarter

to where we made our Number 11 camp, at which place I observed some

first-rate grasses, and for the first time on the Gregory River a few

tufts of kangaroo-grass. The country we have seen today is fine fattening

healthy sheep country; but it will not carry much stock as the grass is

thin. The horse drowned had been an unfortunate brute from the time of

our leaving Brisbane. On board ship he was nearly kicked to death by

other horses, having been trampled down during the wreck.

Thursday November 28. Camp Number 11, situated on the Gregory River.

Mr. Allison and I made from time to time observations of the sun and

stars; but as the sextant, which had been injured at the wreck of a brig,

was out of order, we had no confidence in those observations, and have

not preserved them. From Camp Mount Kay, a hill confining the river

closely on the left bank, about one mile and a half distant (looks about

three miles) bore 119 degrees; another hill about two miles distant bore

28 degrees; and another, two miles, bore 312 degrees; also a hill forming

the south end of the gorge of the river, about one mile distant up the

river 249 degrees. There is marjoram in abundance at the camp; but that

is hardly worthy of remark as it is very common all up the river from the

commencement of the high grounds. We were detained this morning as I had

a shoe to put on one of the horses and other things to do. At 9.20 a.m.

Messrs. Campbell, Allison, and Jemmy started up the river, and Fisherman

and I started to look for a river from the southward. At 10.5, after

having crossed the river, we made one mile and three-quarters

south-south-west over rising ground, of the richest soil with hardly a

tree upon it, to the foot of the ranges, at which place Mount Kay bore 56

degrees; the hill, probably, with the cairn on the top, 53 degrees; the

ranges bearing 68 to 71 degrees, which I think are on the right bank of a

watercourse we found soon afterwards, which I named the O'Shanassy River,

just above its junction with the Gregory River. A table hill, about a

mile distant 92 degrees. At 10.50 we made half a mile south-south-west to

the top of a range which has a basaltic stony character. From it we

observed that we were 327 degrees from a distant long-topped table hill.

Having got into broken country I depended too much on Fisherman to take

me out of it into the next valley, but he took me on to the river at a

point a considerable distance up its course. At 1 p.m. we returned to the

point, which is one mile and three-quarters south-south-west from the

camp we left in the morning. At 1.30 we made east-south-east, past the

little table hill to a beautiful valley of the richest soil, but now

without water, and all the grass parched up, at which point Mount Kay

bore north-north-west, about one mile distant. We then searched for the

river we expected to find coming from the southward, and found it by

following down the river north-east for one mile and a half below Mount

Kay, where we marked a tree--broad arrow before L. We then followed the

river up for half a mile and observed that it was running. It does not

join at the place which we the previous day thought was the junction of a

river. Just above the junction there is a scrub of large fig-trees, on

which there were a great number of flying foxes. There is a hill on the

right bank of the river, just above its junction with the Gregory, which

I named Smith's Range. In returning I observed at a point one mile and

three-quarters south-south-west from the camp remarkable hills on both

sides of the Gregory River, about half a mile above the junction with the

O'Shanassy, which I have named the Prior Ranges. At 4.48 we returned to a

point opposite Mount Kay. At 5.26 made two miles up the river to where

there are remarkable bluff hills on both sides of the river (the lower

hills of the gorge). At 5.50 we observed that we had passed the camp and,

as the river is difficult to cross even at its best fords, we went to the

camp ford, which the horses knew, as we had crossed there in the morning.

Having made camp at 6.35, at dark we made one mile and three-quarters

west, slightly southerly to the hill at the gorge, on the track of the

main party. Further than that Fisherman would not follow this track in

the dark, as it went over a basaltic rocky range. This was a bad camp for

us, the grass so parched up that the horses could not get any worth

eating, and we had nothing to eat ourselves. I was stung by a reptile,

probably a scorpion. The pain it gave was sufficient to make me very

uncomfortable during the night.

Friday November 29.

At 5.40 a.m. Fisherman and I started on the track of the main party. At

6.55 we made two and a half miles south-south-west by following the river

up a gorge to opposite junction of a watercourse from the south, which I

have named the Verdon Creek. At 7.18 made three-quarters of a mile

south-west by south up gorge of the river. At 7.35 made half a mile

south-west and by west to junction of a little creek from the north. At 8

made three-quarters of a mile west to a basaltic hill on left bank. At

8.25 three-quarters of a mile in the same direction, to a point opposite

a large creek from the south, which I have named Balfour Creek.

(Respecting it see Campbell's report.) At the lower end of a gap in the

basaltic wall, on the left side, there is a round-topped hill, just above

the junction of the creek. At 8.35 we made half a mile west-north-west to

the junction of a small creek from the north. At 9.4 made a mile west and

by north. At 9.13 a quarter of a mile to junction of a watercourse from

the north, which I have named Haines Creek. At 9.24 a quarter of a mile

north-west up this creek to Number 12 Camp. During the remainder of the

day we all remained in encampment except Mr. Campbell and Jemmy who went

and examined Balfour Creek, having been asked by me to do so. Mr.

Campbell gave me afterwards the following report of his survey;

I proceeded, accompanied by Jemmy to the Gregory River, and though I

endeavoured at several points to effect a crossing, we had to follow the

stream about four miles before an eligible place could be found. Here the

bottom is hard and stony, with about three feet of water running at a

rapid rate. Opposite this point I marked a gumtree with + before broad

arrow before L. I then proceeded up the opposite bank, and crossed two

dry watercourses, and at about two and a half miles came upon the branch

(I presume you to have meant) and found it going in a westerly direction.

There was but little water in it so far as I went; and, as it was not

running, I do not think water could be traced up any distance. I tried to

cross the Gregory at the junction of this creek, but the banks are so

boggy I had to return by the way I went.

...

Saturday November 30. Camp Number 12, situated on Haines Creek.

At 8.35 a.m. left the camp, and at 8.50 made half a mile south-east and

reached the river. At 8.57 made a quarter of a mile west. At 9.30 made

one mile and a quarter west-south-west along the river. At 9.37 made a

quarter of a mile south-west. At 9.55 made three-quarters of a mile south

to where there is a crossing-place at rapids, with at least six feet of a

fall. Made a delay of twenty minutes from having to go through pandanus

and tea-tree scrub, and then over rocks, etc. Made a fair start at 10.20.

At 10.35 made half a mile south-west. At 10.45 made half a mile south. At

11.10 made one mile and a half west-south-west. (About here kangaroos are

numerous.) At 11.23 made half a mile south-west by west. At 11.40 made

three-quarters of a mile west to a single column and wall, which I have

called Campbell's Tower. Mr. Campbell and I got into the tower, which we

found a delightful shelter from the heat of the sun, while the troopers

were getting cabbage-tree sprouts. Started again at 12.54 p.m. At 3.45

made what I supposed to be a branch of the river, as it was hardly

running. Having stopped the horses, Jemmy and I went in search of the

running water, and also to look for grass for the horses, as we did not

remember having seen any on the course we had come for some distance

back, except very coarse grass in the bed of the river, and old grass on

the bank, which was too dry to be of service. At a quarter of a mile

further we found the junction, on the right side of the river, of a

well-watered creek which I have named after Sir Francis Murphy. We could

not, from its bogginess, cross. We therefore returned, and recrossed at

the old place. There we went down the river and crossed between the creek

I mentioned. We then followed the same down on the right side about two

miles without finding the junction of the running stream; and as it was

late we returned to where we had left the main party, and near there

formed our thirteenth camp on the left bank of the river.

Sunday December 1. Camp 13, situated on the Gregory River.

On a particular examination of the grass about the camp I had a better

opinion of it, and thought it advisable to remain here until I had made a

search for the running water. At this camp we had a potful of

cabbage-tree sprouts, and we ate a large quantity of it with lime juice

which made it resemble rhubarb in taste. It agreed well with us, except

with Mr. Campbell, who was slightly sick from eating it.

Monday December 2. Camp 13.

Before starting to look for the running stream Mr. Allison and I clinched

and fastened with other nails the shoes on the horses that Jemmy and I

were going to ride. We left camp at 7.52 a.m. At 8.30 made one mile and a

half east. At 8.53 made one mile further east. At 9.6 half a mile

east-north-east to junction of a creek on the right side of the river,

which I have named the Wilson Creek. In the fork made by it and the river

marked a tree with broad arrow between E. L. At 9.27 we crossed the creek

and followed down the river. At 10.4 we made one mile and a quarter

north-east (chiefly at some distance from the river, on the top of the

high basaltic bank, which, from the want of soil, has nothing on it

except triodia and stunted bloodwood-trees) to a point half a mile south

of Campbell's Tower and west-south-west from a point about two miles down

the river. We started again at 10.13 and reached the rapids in the river,

which are about three miles above Number 12 camp; in doing so we kept

chiefly at some distance from the river on the barren basaltic rocky

ridges, and only crossed two dry watercourses. With some difficulty we

crossed at the top of the rapids. A few yards lower the stream is three

feet deep and several yards wide. Having now gone round the running

water, as the country is very dry on both sides of the river, it follows

that this fine stream proceeds from springs in the immediate

neighbourhood. We left the rapids to return to camp at 3.22 p.m. at a

smart walk. At 4.10 we made two miles and a half to a tree in a narrow

pass, which we marked with a broad arrow between E. L. At 4.20 started

again, and at 4.40 made one mile to Campbell's Tower; then at 5.9 two

miles and a half to a pillar 40 feet high. At 6.14 two miles and

three-quarters to camp.

Tuesday December 3. Camp 13.

At 8.15 a.m. we left this camp; crossed the river with the intention of

following it on that side when practicable. At 8.26 made a quarter of a

mile north-west. At 8.35 made half a mile west-north-west. At 8.50 made

half a mile south-west and by west. At 9.4 made half a mile

west-north-west. At 9.16 made half a mile west-south-west to junction of

another creek from the south, named by me Haughton Creek. At 9.45 made

one mile west-south-west to junction of another creek from the south,

named by me Dodwell Creek. At 10.12 made one mile west by north. At 10.20

made a quarter of a mile west to junction of another creek from south. At

10.27 made a quarter of a mile north by west. At 10.52 made

three-quarters of a mile north-west. At 11.7 made half a mile north-west.

At 11.20 made half a mile west and by south. At 11.40 made three-quarters

of a mile north-west. At noon made three-quarters of a mile west. At

12.26 made one mile west and by south. At 1 made one mile west by south.

At 1.7 made a quarter of a mile south to a point on the right bank, where

we formed our fourteenth camp, as we found there water in the river from

a recent thunderstorm. The bed of the river we had found perfectly dry

for some distance back. The river is badly watered along the course we

have come. Below our last camp it has quite a different character. There

are now only gumtrees in the bed of it, whereas lower down it was crowded

with green trees, consisting chiefly of fig, Leichhardt, drooping

tea-tree, cabbage-palm, pandanus, etc. All the country above Camp 11 on

the banks of the river is composed of barren, rocky, basaltic ridges,

which are slightly timbered with stunted bloodwood trees and overrun with

triodia, with the exception of narrow strips of flooded country on each

side of the river, on the lowest parts of which there is coarse grass,

and on the higher parts there are tufts of the best description of

grasses.

Tuesday December 4. Camp Number 14, situated on the Gregory River.

At 7.58 a.m. left camp and at 8.20 made three-quarters of a mile south to

opposite junction of creek from south, which I have named Fullarton

Creek. At 8.35 a.m. made three-quarters of a mile south-west to the

junction of another creek from south. At 8.53 made a quarter of a mile

west-south-west. At 9 made three-quarters of a mile west. At 9.20 made

three-quarters of a mile west-south-west. At 9.27 made a quarter of a

mile west-south-west to junction of creek from west. At 10 made one mile

south-west. At 10.35 made one mile south-west to junction of creek from

north named by me Dixon Creek. At 10.45 made a quarter of a mile

south-west. At 11.20 left main party to go in search of water, with

orders to party to return to old camp if not back in an hour. At 11.40

made three-quarters of a mile west to junction of small creek from south.

At 11.45 made a quarter of a mile west. At 12.10 p.m. made half a mile

north-west. At 12.40 made one mile north-west to junction of creek from

south-west which I have named Abbot Creek. At 12.48 made a quarter of a

mile south-west up the creek, and marked a tree in its bed. Fisherman got

some honey from a tree. At 2.30 made a quarter of a mile south-west,

proceeded up the creek. At 2.40 made a quarter of a mile south-west,

passed the junction of two small creeks. At 2.58 made three-quarters of a

mile south-west by west. At 3.20 made three-quarters of a mile south. At

3.30 made a quarter of a mile south-west to junction of small creek on

south side. At 3.53 made three-quarters of a mile south. At 3.58 made a

quarter of a mile south-east. At 4.8 made a quarter of a mile

south-south-west, at which point, having marked a tree with broad arrow

over L and not having found either water or grass since leaving Number 14

camp, we started to return at 5.5. We reached our honey delay tree in

about two miles and three-quarters. At dark we reached in about three

miles to where we had left our party, when we went in search of water,

and in a distance of fully five miles and a quarter to Camp 15, situated

about one mile higher up the river than Camp 14. From our companions we

learned that Jemmy had been up the river, and although he had been away

all day, had returned without finding any water. He observed however a

smoke to the southward, where water very probably may be found, as these

fires are generally kindled by the natives near water.

Thursday December 5. Camp Number 15.

Mr. Campbell having gone today in search of water, made the following

report:

Left camp at 8.15 a.m., accompanied by Jemmy. On reaching the rise above

the camp I steered in a south-west direction which we followed for six

miles over a barren country intersected in many places by deep gullies or

watercourses; one of these we followed to its junction with a very wide

channel, larger, in my opinion, than the Gregory at the point where we

left that stream. From its appearance I imagine it has not been visited

by a flood for a considerable period, as in many places it is overgrown

with rank grass and young timber.

We followed this channel up for some distance in the expectation of

finding water in the deep holes along its bed, in one of which we

discovered a native well, but which was quite dry.

Seeing after a time there was no prospect of procuring water by following

this course, I left the channel and proceeded in a south to south-east

direction, and (being advised by Jemmy) and having neither water nor

provisions with us, determined on returning back, seeing no probability

of obtaining water in the character of country through with we were

travelling. On our return we made the channel before mentioned several

miles to the north, which we followed down, and it brought us into the

Gregory, about four miles above our camp. Distance travelled about thirty

miles.

...

Friday December 6. Camp Number 15.

Fisherman and I left camp this morning to go in search of water. At 9.50

a.m. made three-quarters of a mile south to Fullarton Creek. At 10.15

made one mile south up the creek. At 10.43 made one mile south up the

creek. At 10.50 made a quarter of a mile south-east. At 11.8 made a

quarter of a mile north. At 11.15 made a quarter of a mile east. At 11.35

made a quarter of a mile east, general course of creek. At 11.40 made a

quarter of a mile south-east. At 11.50 made half a mile south. At 12.7

p.m. made three-quarters of a mile south. At 12.52 made two miles south.

At 1.18 made one mile south by east, to a plain with tableland of the

richest soil, and with grasses of the most fattening nature, but which at

this time are old and dry. This tableland I have named Barkly Plains,

after His Excellency Sir Henry Barkly. At 1.26 made a quarter of a mile

south by east three miles and three-quarters south to plains, to reach

which we crossed barren ridges with gullies, having an easterly course.

To the south-west not a tree was to be seen. At 3.37 made two miles and a

quarter south, with which course we skirt the left edge of Barkly Plains.

Stopped here and had some dinner. Started again at 4.15. At 4.30 p.m.

made one mile south where Fisherman shot and dressed an emu. At 5.23 we

started again. At 5.40 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east to

a watercourse which I have named Pratt Creek. At 5.45 made a quarter of a

mile south-east down the creek to water. Proceeded about one mile

further, and then returned about halfway to where we encamped (compare

with 7th December). The grass in this neighbourhood is good, excepting of

course on the ridges, which are barren and covered with triodia. The

creek has been recently flooded, and has remaining in it, I hope,

sufficient water to last us until we find more permanent water to which

we can proceed. I think that watercourses do exist, both to the right and

left of the plain, from the general appearance of the country running

parallel to the plains.

Saturday 7th December.

Started to return to camp at 8.25 a.m. At 9 a.m. made one mile

north-west, and having tracked the emu there it was then packed upon the

packhorse; we started again at 9.20. At 10.10 made two miles and a half

north. At 11.8 made one mile and a quarter north to the barren ridges. At

11.42 made one mile and a half north over the ridges. At 12.56 p.m. made

two miles and three-quarters north. At 1.20 made one mile north-west

where we had dinner and started again at 1.55. At 2.5 made a quarter of a

mile north-west by north. At 2.15 made half a mile north-north-east to

outward tracks upon Fullarton Creek. At 5.35 made seven miles and a half

to the junction of creek with river; upon the point formed by junction

marked tree (broad arrow over L). At 6 made half a mile and reached Camp

Number 15.

Sunday 8th December. Camp Number 15.

Being anxious to benefit by the water in Pratt Creek, on Barkly

Tableland, we left camp at 11.7 to go to it. At 11.20 a.m. made half a

mile to marked tree at junction of Fullarton Creek. At 11.25 made two

miles and three-quarters to a cross log. Soon after Mr. Campbell was

taken unwell. At 2.20 p.m. made four miles to where we left the creek

when upon its right bank. At 3.20 made three miles and a half south over

barren ridges to Barkly Tableland, where we delayed until 4.10. At 5.17

made three miles south. At 5.45 made one mile and a quarter south by

east. At 6.56 made three miles and a quarter south by east. At 7.13 made

three-quarters of a mile south. At dark made one mile east-south-east and

encamped at Pratt Creek.

Monday 9th December. Camp Number 16.

Mr. Campbell has been for some days somewhat unwell. Jemmy and I started

down the creek in search of more permanent water. At 12.6 p.m. made one

mile and three-quarters east-north-east on right bank to the junction of

small creek. At 12.20 made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east over

barren stony basaltic ridges, overrun by triodia and slightly timbered

with stunted bloodwood and bauhinia trees, to a plain of rich soil

covered with fattening grasses. At 12.30 made half a mile east-north-east

over a plain to where we observed smoke half a point northerly of the

course we had just come. Kept towards it, thinking water might be found

near it. At 1.32 made two miles and a half east-north-east, chiefly over

ridges of a character like those I have previously described, to a

watercourse which I have named Burrows Creek; its course is easterly. At

1.52 made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east to a tree from which

Jemmy got some honey. Started again at 2.30. At 4.50 made three miles and

a half east-north-east to a small creek from the north. At 5 made three

miles and a quarter east-north-east to another creek from the north. At

6.23 made three miles to a little creek from the south. At 7.20 made two

miles and three-quarters easterly down the creek from the south. At 8.15

made two miles north-east. Made down the creek in search of water but had

to camp without succeeding. The latter part of the day's journey has been

along a stony barren ridge, as I have described, which told severely on

the feet of the horses.

Tuesday December 10th.

Not being able to proceed further with our lame and thirsty horses I

deemed it advisable to return campwards at 6.30 a.m. At 7.30 a.m. made

two miles and three-quarters west-south-west to where I told Jemmy to

lead the way over the range and follow down one of the southerly creeks

in search of water. At 8.35 made three miles south-west by west to the

head of the creek. At 9.20 made four miles and three-quarters south-east

down the creek, where we left it, as its course was contrary to the

direction of the camp. At 9.50 made one mile and a quarter

west-south-west to another small creek, which we also resolved to follow

down a short distance in search of water. At 10.12 made one mile south

down the creek. Crossed our old tracks. At 10.27 made half a mile

south-east. Left the creek. At 10.53 made one mile west-south-west. At

11.3 made half a mile south-west to creek, which we also searched. At

11.35 made one mile south-south-east down creek, and then left it; no

appearance of water, which we very much wanted. At 1 p.m. made two miles

south by west. At 2 made two miles and three-quarters west half north

where we gave our horses each two quarts of water from our leathern

bottles, and changed saddles so that Jemmy could ride the packhorse, as

the one that he had been riding was not able to carry him any further. At

3.15 made two miles and three-quarters west by north to our outward

tracks, and also a great number of emu tracks, from which we concluded

that water existed in the neighbouring creeks. At 3.50 made one mile and

a half west-south-west to Burrows Creek. At 4.5 made half a mile

north-east where we had to proceed without our packhorse down the creek a

considerable distance without noting the distance, as I was too thirsty.

As the birds were very numerous here, we were convinced that we were near

water. The continual noise they made was more tantalising than can well

be conceived: it sounded to us like, "We know where there is water, but

you foolish fellows cannot find it." About one mile further down the

creek we came upon a hole very recently dry, in the bottom of which we

dug with a pointed stick, clearing away with our hands to the depth of

two feet. We found muddy water, with which we quenched our thirsts and

gave the horses a few quarts of it. Having hobbled our tired horses we

started upon foot to look for water. We went up the creek a mile to where

it is joined by another branch; this we followed up for about two miles,

and found a hole with a few gallons of water in it. In about a mile we

crossed over to where we had left the packhorse, which we found after a

prolonged search. At 12.10 a.m. made half a mile north-east down Burrows

Creek to the junction of Pratt Creek. At 1 one mile and three-quarters

north to our well. At 1.25 started to take the horses to the water. At 3

two miles and a quarter south by west to the water previously found; and

unsaddled our horses. We were twenty-two consecutive hours, more or less,

engaged, during which time Jemmy never showed any signs of fatigue, or

unwillingness to proceed.

Wednesday December 11th.

Jemmy and I started to follow up the creek to camp. At 10.20 made four

miles up the creek to where we found just sufficient water to quench the

thirst of the horses, and after delaying for that purpose we started

again at 10.50 a.m. At 11.20 made one mile to the best pond of water that

we have seen either up or down the creek. One of the horses was so fagged

that we delayed in consequence till 12.35. At 12.50 made half a mile up

the creek to opposite junction (or main) one-eighth of a mile to opposite

junction of another creek. At 2.27 made three miles up the creek to Camp

17, where we were glad to find from Mr. Campbell that he had quite

recovered from his illness.

Thursday December 12th. Camp Number 16. Situated on Pratt Creek.

At 8.50 made one mile south-west by south up the creek from Number 16

Camp to a waterhole where Fisherman and Jemmy were filling the

water-bottles to carry on the packhorse, so as to supply us whilst in

search of more water. At 10.4 made one mile and a quarter, about south to

a waterhole up the creek. At 12 made five miles and three-quarters

south-west to one of the branches of the Gregory River, which I have

named Elliott Creek, over rich well-grassed plain country. At 12.10 made

one mile south to where Jemmy left us to return to Camp 16. At 1.24 made

two miles south, where we left following up Elliott Creek, despairing of

finding water in it. At 1.35 made half a mile south-west to a tree which

Fisherman climbed to look across the plains. At 6.24 made thirteen miles

south-west, which distance on that course took us across the plain near

to a large clump of timber. The grass on the plain is good, with a

considerable quantity of saltbush among it, but we were afraid we would

not find water in the watercourse we were approaching, we had seen so few

birds on the plain. At 6.43 made one mile south to a clump of trees

resembling myall, which I have seen before to the west of Rockhampton. At

8 made two miles and three-quarters about south down the watercourse in

search of water, having stopped for our supper and started again. At 12

made two miles and a quarter south by west down the watercourse to some

young grass, where we camped for the remainder of the night.

Friday December 13th.

In the morning we heard a great number of birds and expected to find

water. At 6.5 a.m. made three-quarters of a mile west in search of water,

hearing birds in that direction. At 6.44 made one mile about south-east

back to the creek. At 8.45 made six miles about south-west down the creek

in search of water to the junction of watercourse from the north which I

have named Pring Creek. On the point between the two creeks we marked a

tree with a broad arrow before L. At this place we stopped until nine

o'clock and in the meantime gave the horses each two quarts of water from

the supply we had with us. At 9.25 made one mile north-north-west up

Pring Creek to the junction of a creek from north. At 9.35 made one mile

north-north-west up the latter creek to where we started for Number 16

Camp without having found water. At 10.47 made three miles and

three-quarters west by north over rich thinly timbered plains, the grass

old and dry. At 11.22 made one mile and a half north-east to our outer

track below camp on creek. At 11.38 made three-quarters of a mile about

north-north-east up the creek. At 11.55 made three-quarters of a mile

north to last night's camp. At 12.26 p.m. made one mile and a quarter

north-east up the creek. At 1.3 made one mile and a half north to where

we supped last night. At 1.30 made one mile and a quarter north-east at

where we stopped and started again at 2 p.m. At 2.20 made one mile

north-east to the plain. At 3.10 made two miles and a half north. At 7.15

made ten miles and a half north-east to lookout-tree, which we made

steering by compass. At this place I gave the horses almost all that was

left of the water, as I thought that Fisherman would be able easily to

lead the way to Camp 16, and I being so confident of this paid no

attention to the course that he was leading me. At 11.30 I found that

Fisherman did not know where he was, so I gave my horse his head,

thinking he would go to water near Number 16 Camp; but he searched along

the bed of a watercourse for water and found a fine waterhole, where we

saw a fire on the banks, at which we thought there were probably blacks,

as boughs and a net had been recently placed around the water to ensnare

large birds. After we had got a supply of water we watered the horses and

went west-north-west about one mile and a half to a point on the plain

about half a mile distant from the watercourse, where we hobbled out the

horses and stopped till morning.

Saturday December 14.

The watercourse I named Clifton Creek. At 6.30 a.m. Fisherman and I left

our camp. At 7 made one mile east-south-east down Clifton Creek to where

we passed from left to right bank, which we then followed up a few yards

to the junction of a larger creek on the right side, where there is a

fine waterhole. At 7.45 made one mile east-south-east down the Clifton

Creek to where we stopped for breakfast, and started again at 9.35. At

9.42 went quarter mile south-east across a range to a creek with deep

empty holes. At 9.49 went quarter mile south-east to plain. At 10.40 went

two and a half miles south-east to a large river, with large waterholes

recently empty, surrounded by tall cabbage, pandanus, and large drooping

tea-trees. I ascertained afterwards that it was the O'Shanassy. One of

the cabbage-trees we cut down to get its centre sprout to eat. Started

again at 11.40. At 12.13 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east,

passed the junction of two creeks, one from the east and one from the

west. At 12.45 made one mile north-west across a range to dry creek. From

the range we saw the river had a north-north-east course. At 1.9 made one

mile north-west up a barren, rocky, basaltic range to rich well-grassed

plains. At 1.33 made one mile north-west to a creek with empty deep

holes. At 2.10 made two miles north-west to Clifton Creek, where we had

breakfast, and started again at 3 up the Clifton Creek. At 3.15 made

three-quarters of a mile north-west up the creek to where we crossed to

left bank and left it. At 3.50 made one mile and three-quarters

north-west over a fine downs ridge covered with green grass. At 4.15 made

one mile north-north-west to outward track on right bank on the Pratt

Creek. At 4.45 made one and a quarter mile north-east and at 5 made

three-quarters of a mile north-east in the direction of Number 16 Camp.

At 5.9 made quarter of a mile north by east to creek. At 5.17 made

quarter of a mile north over a barren desert grass ridge. At 5.30 made

one mile and a half to Number 16 Camp. At 5.40 we left Number 16 Camp to

go two and a half miles south-west by south to where our companions had

formed Number 17 Camp in our absence.

Monday December 16. Camp Number 17. Situated on Pratt Creek.

At 8.15 left camp to go to the fine waterhole at the junction of a creek

from the west, which I have named Campbell's Creek, with Clifton Creek.

At 8.48 made one mile and a half south-west by south. At 9 made half a

mile south-south-west to tracks made, when Fisherman and I returned to

Number 17 Camp. At 9.45 made two miles south-east down to Clifton Creek.

At 10.10 made one mile south-east down the creek to where we formed our

18th camp. At the camp we had a severe thunderstorm which lasted for

about four hours. At the two previous camps Mr. Allison made observations

of the sun with the plains for a horizon, which were very satisfactory,

as the latitude obtained was nearly the same as that of my dead

reckoning, also nearly the same as the latitude made with the

observations of the stars Aldebaran and Castor with an artificial horizon

at Number 16 Camp. Observations taken at Camp 16: Aldebaran 19 degrees 14

minutes 21 seconds; ditto Castor 19 degrees 24 minutes 30 seconds; ditto

Sun 19 degrees 24 minutes 30 seconds; ditto dead reckoning 19 degrees 24

minutes. At Camp Number 17 about two miles southward from Camp 16: Sun 19

degrees 26 minutes 47 seconds. At Camp Number 20: Sun dead reckoning

nearly the same 19 degrees 37 minutes.

Tuesday December 17. Camp Number 18. Situated on Clifton Creek.

Left camp at 7.32. At 8.15 made two miles south to dry creek from

south-west, where we were delayed till 8.32; at 8.50 made three-quarters

of a mile south to the plain; at 10.45 made five miles and a half south

to a watercourse which I have named Darvall Creek: at 11.10 made

three-quarters of a mile west by south up the creek; at 11.32 made one

mile south-west by south; at 11.48 made three-quarters of a mile

south-west by south; at 12.8 made three-quarters of a mile south-west

where we crossed the creek; at 12.13 made quarter of a mile south-west to

junction of creek; at 12.35 made one mile west-south-west to left bank of

the creek; at 1.10 made about one mile south-west up the creek; at 1.27

made three-quarters of a mile south-west up the creek; at 1.34 made

quarter of a mile west-south-west to where we stopped, as some of our

party were looking for water, at 3.35 made three miles and a quarter

south-east to where, having found a little water in a watercourse with an

easterly course, which I have named Wilkie Creek, we formed our 19th

camp.

Wednesday December 18. Camp Number 19. Situated on Wilkie Creek.

At 7.10 a.m. Fisherman and I left camp to search for water; at 7.20 made

half a mile south-east; at 7.50 made one mile and a half east by north

half north over well-grassed plains to poor soil ridges slightly timbered

with bauhinia, stunted box, and bloodwood trees; at 8.6 made

three-quarters of a mile east by north to a little creek; at 8.20 made

three-quarters of a mile east by north to a watercourse which I have

named Allison's Creek; it has narrow channels and flats, timbered with

gum trees, and thickly covered with what is called on Darling Downs oaten

grass: At 8.30 made quarter of a mile south by east up the creek: at 8.50

made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east to a small rocky hole with

a little water in it: at 9.45 made one and a half miles east-south-east

up the creek to where we left it: at 10.6 made three-quarters of a mile

south-west by west to a little creek from east; at 10.15 made quarter of

a mile south-west to plains; at 10.45 made one mile and a half south-west

across the plains; at 11.17 made one mile and a half west-south-west to

where we stopped to have dinner under a solitary tree which cast a deep

shadow. Started again at 1 p.m. At 2.10 made three miles and two-thirds

west-south-west across the plain, without finding the track of Campbell

and party; at 4.30 made six miles and three-quarters north-west over

unbroken rich plains, timbered slightly with bushes; at 6.16 made four

miles and a half north-east to where some of our party on a previous day

went in search of water; at 6.45 made one mile and a quarter east a short

distance back from right bank of creek; at 7.15 made one mile and

three-quarters north-east by north to where he went down right bank of

creek to search for water; at 7.22 made quarter of a mile

north-north-east searching down the creek in vain for water; at 8.5 made

two miles along yesterday's outward track to waterhole in Darvall Creek,

where the horses were watered yesterday, near which on the left bank of

the creek we found Messrs. Campbell and Allison had encamped.

Thursday December 19. Camp Number 20. Situated on Darvall Creek.

Accompanied by Mr. Allison I went out on the plain to a point about

three-quarters of a mile south-west by south from camp, where Mr. Allison

made the noon altitude of sun 85 degrees 57 minutes, which gave the

latitude 19 degrees 37 minutes, which was nearly the same as my dead

reckoning. Mr. Campbell and Fisherman returned to camp, having been out

in search of water. He brought back a turkey which he had shot, and the

good news that he had found water up the creek. At 6.30 p.m. we left

Number 20 Camp; at 7.45 made three miles west-south-west up the creek to

the waterhole which Mr. Campbell had found, near which on the right bank

we formed our 21st camp. The banks of the creek at this camp descend in

gentle slopes, and consequently have a continuation of rich soil from the

plains; and as the grass was not too old it proved one of the best camps

for horses we have hitherto had.

Friday December 20. Camp 21. Situated on the Darvall Creek.

The troopers and I left this camp at 10.4 to go in search of water; at

10.45 made two miles west-south-west to the junction of a watercourse

from south-west which I have named Turner Creek; at 11.14 made one mile

and a quarter up Darvall Creek; at 11.37 made one mile west by north

further up the creek. All the country we have seen since we started

resembles the rich country about the camp. At 12.4 made one mile west by

south to where there are trees, which I have named Western Wood; at 12.27

made one mile south through Western Wood scrub, it is full of salt herbs,

of which the horses were fond of eating as they went along; at this place

we saw cockatoos and pigeons. From seeing them we searched for water but

did not find any; at 1.20 one mile and a half south-south-west across

rich well-grassed plains to a belt of acacia, overlooking a plain to the

westward, but beyond it a line of trees stretching north and south which

I have named Manning Plain. At 2.40 went three miles and three-quarters

west to a belt of Western Wood scrub; at 2.57 went three-quarters of a

mile west to where we stopped to have dinner; we started again at 4.25;

at 4.53 made one mile and a quarter west by south to a watercourse from

the north-west; at 5.30 made one mile and three-quarters about south-east

down the creek to our old track of the 12th instant; at 6.35 made one

mile and a quarter to our old camp; here we again encamped.

Saturday December 21.

Having used the water up on the additional packhorse that we had brought

on this occasion with us, Fisherman left us, taking back the packhorse to

the camp; at 6.5 Jemmy and I started down the watercourse which I have

named Herbert Creek, in search of water; at 8.4 made six miles south-west

across rich fine plain country to Pring Creek from north-north-east; at

8.14 made half a mile north by east down Pring Creek to a point at the

junction with Herbert Creek where we had on the previous occasion marked

a tree broad arrow before L; at 8.30 made three-quarters of a mile

south-south-west down Herbert Creek to where we saw a flock of pigeons,

and immediately after found a little water, where we halted, but again

started at 8.47; at 9 made half a mile south-west down the river; at 9.20

made three-quarters of a mile south-east down the river; at 9.40 made one

mile east by south down the river, at 10.10 made one mile about

south-east down the river; at 10.30 made three-quarters of a mile

south-east down the river to where we found a little water out of small

holes in the rock, which seemed like a robbery from the flocks of little

birds which surrounded them; from here we started again at 11.5; at 11.15

made a quarter of a mile south to junction of large creek from

south-west, which I named Hervey Creek, near which we observed several

flocks of pigeons; at 11.50 made half a mile east-south-east to where the

channels are confined, and where there is on the left side a strange deep

rocky pit; at 12.12 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-west down

the river; at 12.21 made quarter of a mile south-east down the river; at

12.35 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east to the junction of

creek from north-east which I have named Chester Creek; at 12.58 made one

mile south-east by east down the river; at 1.6 made quarter of a mile

south-south-west to a very fine waterhole which I have named Mary Lake.

This place seems to be a favourite resort for blacks; the banks are

covered with mussels, and all the firewood burned. We turned the horses

out for some time; it is surrounded with bushes of polygonum; at 4.32

started to return to Number 21 Camp; at 4.50 made one mile north to

Chester Creek; at 6.15 made five miles north across high stony rich plain

country, where we encamped, as there was a patch of young grass for the

horses.

Sunday December 22. Camp.

From camp on left bank of little dry creek we left at 6.20 to return to

Camp 21; at 8 a.m. made six miles north to left bank of Herbert Creek; at

8.20 made one mile and a quarter north up the creek to old camp, where we

delayed to give the horses water from the bottles, and started again at

8.38; at 10 made three miles and a half in different directions to the

Western Wood tree, where we had dinner on Friday last; at 11.20 made

three miles and three-quarters to east side of Manning Plain, where we

lost the tracks and delayed looking for them till 11.40; at 12.20 made

three miles, where we met Fisherman with a horse loaded with water.

Started again at 12.50; at 1.44 made two miles and three-quarters east;

at 2.8 made one mile east; at 3.2 made two miles and three-quarters east

by north to 21 Camp.

Monday December 23. Camp Number 21. Situated on Darvall Creek.

We left this camp at 9.3 a.m. on a south-west course. On that course from

camp we crossed and recrossed the creek. At 10.3 made two miles and

three-quarters south-west over rich well-grassed tableland plains,

slightly timbered with bushes. We observed the small saline herbs which I

have mentioned the horses to be so fond of, also more of the Queensland

saltbush than we have seen previously; at 12.3 made four miles and a

quarter south-west by west to Manning Plain, where we delayed, and

started again at 12.14; at 1.20 made two miles and a quarter south-west

by west where we delayed and started again at 1.35; at 2.20 made two

miles and a quarter south-west by west, where we having halted started

again at 2.48; at 3.10 made one mile south-west by west to where we found

yesterday's tracks; at 4.35 made four miles south by east to Saturday

night's camp; at 4.45 made half a mile south to where Mr. Campbell's

horse knocked up; at 6.19 made three miles and three-quarters south; at

6.27 made a quarter of a mile south half east to Chester Creek; at 6.52

made one mile and a quarter south half east to Mary Lake, where we formed

our twenty-second camp.

Tuesday December 24. Mary Lake.

Rested ourselves and horses, and put shoes on Mr. Campbell's horse with

screw nails. We found the punching and fitting of the shoes difficult and

tedious, although Mr. Gregory, who is himself a first-rate hand at that

sort of work, assured me that it would not be a troublesome operation.

Christmas Day. Mary Lake.

As ducks were abundant and the grass good this was a fine place for

spending Christmas. In the afternoon Jemmy and I went down the river in a

south-south-east direction to a fine waterhole, which I have named Lake

Frances; between Mary Lake and it, we only found shallow pools of water

from the last thunderstorm. We saw a fat old white-headed blackfellow and

his gin near the waterhole. The gin was very anxious about the safety of

her four dogs and carried one of them in her arms; but on our approach

she abandoned it and fled into the water; but afterwards seeing the old

blackfellow had gone up a tree she followed his example. Jemmy not

understanding their language we could not get any information from them.

Thursday December 26. Camp Number 22, situated on Mary Lake on Herbert

River.

We left this camp at 7.37 a.m. At 7.42 made a quarter of a mile

south-west by south to end of Mary Lake; at 7.52 made half a mile south

on left side of the river, to plains, which are slightly timbered; at 8

made half a mile south-south-east, skirting the river to Lake Frances; at

9 made three miles; at 9.19 made three-quarters of a mile south to where

we crossed a watercourse from the east which I have named the Don Creek:

at 9.30 made half a mile south-south-west on left side of river over

plains; at 9.41 made half a mile south by west to where I waited for the

party, who came up at 9.45; at 10.5 made one mile south by west to where

we crossed a creek from north-east; at 10.24 made three-quarters of a

mile south by west; at 10.45 made one mile south to the left side of the

river; at 11 made three-quarters of a mile south-east by south along the

dry bed of the river, from which we started successive flights of

pigeons. At this place Mr. Campbell and party halted with the horses

while Mr. Allison and I went about a mile westward onto the plain, where

he made the altitude 86 degrees 30 minutes, which makes the latitude 20

degrees 6 minutes, agreeing with the latitude of my dead reckoning and

with an observation I made of a star last night; at 3 Jemmy, who had gone

down the river, returned without finding any water, except what was left

by the last thunderstorm; and as he told me I was following up a river,

and not down, I too hurriedly believed him, and made up my mind to return

to a waterhole that Fisherman had found to the right of our course in the

bed of the river. At the waterhole I found blacks, but, as I always avoid

them when I can, after I had a short interview with them we started down

the river to the water Jemmy had found, following along the right bank as

we had the left before; at 4.40 made two miles and three-quarters down

the river to where we crossed, near its junction, a river or a branch of

one from north-west; at 5.8 made one mile and a half back to where Mr.

Allison went on the plain to get an observation; at 5.20 made half a mile

south; at 5.40 made one mile south to where the river has two channels;

the one trending to the west of south we crossed, between the two

channels of the river; at 5.53 made half a mile south to where the left

channel of the river was full of water and fine grass on its banks, on

the right bank of which we formed our twenty-third camp, at the place

where Mr. Allison made an observation of the sun. The country is very

level and the watercourses are unconfined, and in times of floods the

water overflows the low banks of the different channels. The blacks we

saw today appear to be circumcised; three of them approached us, one of

whom was the old blackfellow we had seen yesterday. Their name for water

we thought from what they said was oto. We presented them with a tin pot

and two empty glass bottles with which they were very much pleased.

Friday December 27. Camp Number 23, situated on the Herbert River.

Left camp at 8.24 a.m. to go down the river; at 8.35 made half a mile

south-south-west to where we crossed, near its junction, a western

channel of the river; at this place there are flats covered with bushes

like saltbush, which the horses eat. These bushes I have observed on the

western plains from Rockhampton and on most of the low situations along

our route on this expedition; at 8.43 made half a mile south; at 8.48

made a quarter of a mile south-west where we crossed, near its junction,

a more western channel of the river; at 9.10 made one mile south-west by

south to where we crossed, near its junction, a river from west, with a

shallow and broad channel; the banks of the river at this place are very

little below the level of the plain on each side of it; at 10.10 made

three miles south-south-west with level plains on each side of us,

without trees or bushes, except along the watercourses; at 10.30 made one

mile south to the right bank of the river, where there are twelve

box-trees growing in its bed; before crossing to its left bank we got

enough water to satisfy the horses; at 11.4 made one mile and a half

south to a junction of a watercourse with extensive flood-marks from the

east. This river has a deeper channel, with trees on its banks, than the

river we have been following down had. At 11.15 made half a mile south,

when Mr. Allison and I went back to the westward, on the plains, and got

the following altitude of the sun: 86 degrees 37 minutes, which makes the

latitude 20 degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds; at 1.35 made three-quarters of

a mile south down the river; at 1.47 made a quarter of a mile south-east

down the river; at 2.20 made one mile and a quarter south, following the

course of the river in search of water; at 3.10 made one mile and

three-quarters about south-south-west, following the course of the river

in search of water; at 3.44 made half a mile about south-west, following

the course of the river in search of water; at 4.10 made one mile and a

quarter about south, where, accompanied by the troopers, I left Campbell

and Allison to go in search of water; at 5.20 made three miles about

south-west down the river in an unsuccessful search for water; at 6 made

two miles north-east by east; returning, we steered over plains, the

grass of which was completely parched up. Near the creek I observed more

owls than I have ever seen anywhere before; at 6.27 made one mile and a

quarter north-east by east back to our party; then went, at 6.56, one

mile and a quarter north by east, towards where we had seen the last

water; at 7.15 made one mile north by east; at 7.35 made three-quarters

of a mile north-east; at 8 made three-quarters of a mile about north-east

by north and encamped.

Saturday December 28. Camp Number 24, situated on the Herbert River.

We started back up the river being unable to pursue our course to the

westward from want of water. I sent Mr. Campbell and Jemmy on with the

horses, while Mr. Allison and I went out on the plain to take an

observation of the sun, which was not satisfactory from the sun being

over-shadowed; we made the latitude 20 degrees 12 minutes 35 seconds; at

1.21 p.m. made three miles north by east from where we took the sun's

altitude; at 1.53 made one mile north to where we crossed a channel of

the river; at 2.35 made two miles and a quarter north by east partly on

the tracks of Campbell and party; at 2.50 made three-quarters of a mile

north-north-east to where we recrossed left bank of the river and

overtook Campbell and party. Here we delayed till 3.22 in consequence of

one of the horses being knocked up; at 3.40 made one mile north by east

to where we recrossed the right bank of the river; at 3.55 made

three-quarters of a mile and encamped. Here the grass was very abundant

and the holes full of water. This camp is about half a mile from Number

23 Camp.

Sunday December 29th. Camp 25. Situated on the Herbert River.

It was our intention to remain here for several days as the grass was

good and the horses required a rest, but I deemed it advisable to return

at once up the river because there were about one hundred blacks in the

neighbourhood of the camp, some of whom were so bold that I feared it

might be necessary to shoot some of them, or give them possession of the

ground. Two of them had passed our camp on the previous evening, and the

troopers, with my consent, presented them with glass bottles, after

receiving which they soon returned with a large mob, who remained with us

till dark. In the morning they returned and surrounded the camp. Mr.

Campbell went up to one mob and tried to make them understand by signs

that we had peaceable intentions towards them, but they from his account

seemed fully bent on having us off the ground. When he was returning to

the camp Jemmy saw one of the blacks hold his boomerang as if he intended

throwing it at Mr. Campbell, but he was probably advised by others not to

do so. I am not surprised that they were vexed, as we would not allow

them to come up to the camp, although they showed a bunch of hawk

feathers and two bottles we had given them, which they wanted us to

believe were the signs of their good intention; and it is not to be

wondered at on the other hand that we would not trust a mob of blacks,

all warriors, heavily armed with spears, boomerangs, clubs, and little

thorny sticks, to approach the camp. From my previous knowledge of the

blacks I fancied we would easily have driven them away on horseback, but

this I did not think necessary. The mere fact of seeing the horses

brought towards the camp made them retire to a more respectful distance

from us; at 10.5 a.m. left Number 25 Camp; at 10.18 made half a mile

north-east half north to Number 23 Camp, where I stopped with Fisherman

and observed that we were not followed: at 10.45 made half a mile

north-north-east up the river; at 11.23 made one mile and three-quarters

north to the place where I accompanied Mr. Allison on a previous occasion

westward on the plain to take an observation of the sun, at which place

we overtook Campbell and party; at 11.48 made one mile north to where we

observed rising ground. I left the party, accompanied by Fisherman, to

ascend the rising ground; at 12.2 made half a mile north-east by east to

a tree on the rise which Fisherman climbed, and from it observed plain

country to the south and west and wooded country to the east and north.

Here we observed stunted box and bloodwood trees, and a variety of

grasses, among which I observed barley, oaten, kangaroo, and triodia; at

12.23 made one mile north by east; at 12.53 made one mile and a half

north by east to the waterhole I named Kenellan, where there were the

same blacks I had seen before. On this occasion they remained on the

right, while we had dinner on the opposite side, during which time others

to whom they cooeyed arrived at their camp, several of whom were loaded

with game. These, heedless of their own camp or of us, bathed the first

thing on their arrival. We shot ducks, and before leaving Kenellan

presented to the blacks glass bottles of which they were very proud; at 5

made one mile and a quarter north-north-east to Lake Frances, where I

bathed, and some of our party shot ducks. Started again at 5.33; at 6.40

made three miles about north-west by north (see outward route). At 6.56

made three-quarters of a mile north by west; at 7.15 made three-quarters

of a mile north-north-east to Mary Lake, on the lower end of which on the

left bank we formed our twenty-sixth camp.

December 30th. Mary Lake. Situated on the Herbert River.

As some of our horses were not able to travel as far as Camp 21, or to

any water we knew of to the northward, in one stage, without overworking

them, Jemmy and I started to try and find water in the intermediate

distance. Started at 5.55. At 6.5 made half a mile north-east to where we

stopped till 6.20; at 6.47 made one mile and a quarter north by east; at

7.10 made one mile north by west half west to Chester Creek; at 7.28 made

three-quarters of a mile about north-north-east; at 7.52 made one mile

and a half north-east up the creek; at 8 made a quarter of a mile east up

the creek; at 8.10 made half a mile east by south up the creek; at 8.38

made one mile north-east to where we left the creek, because the grass in

the bed of it was parched up, and as we saw no deep holes. It has however

high and extensive flood-marks; at 9.20 made two miles west-north-west;

at 10.26 made three miles west by south to bank of Herbert River; at

10.37 made half a mile north-north-west up the river to where we left it

to follow up the Hervey Creek; at 10.50 made half a mile about north-west

up the creek; at 11.17 made one mile about west by north up the creek. At

11.30 made half a mile south up the creek, where I went on to the plain

and took the noon altitude of the sun, which was not very satisfactory as

I did not give myself sufficient time to go far enough out on the plains.

Latitude from observation 19 degrees 53 minutes 39 seconds. Started back

without having found water at 12.27; at 12.50 made one mile south-east

back to Hervey's Creek; at 1.30 made two miles east by north to Herbert

River; at 1.40 made half a mile east-south-east down the river: at 1.45

made a quarter of a mile about south-east to the strange pit on the left

side of the river; at 2.45 made three miles to camp. Cantered the last

half mile or so and forgot to look at the watch until a short time after

our arrival.

December 31st. Mary Lake.

We left Number 26 Camp bound for Number 21 camp; at 7.32 made one mile

and a half along an old track to where we crossed Chester Creek; at 9.10

made four miles and a half to First Return Camp; at 10.45 made four miles

and a half along outward track to Western Wood Scrub, where, accompanied

by Fisherman, I went three miles north-east by east and got an

observation of the sun which made our latitude 19 degrees 47 minutes 35

seconds; at 12.50 started again; at 1.20 made one mile and a half north

by west to tracks of Campbell and party; at 1.35 made three-quarters of a

mile east-north-east along the track; at 1.58 made one mile about

north-east to where we lost the tracks, and was delayed a short time in

consequence; at 4.5 made half a mile, chiefly along the track; at 5.8

made three miles, where Campbell and party had formed our twenty-seventh

camp at our Outward Camp 21. During this day's journey we have crossed no

watercourse that I deem worthy of notice, except Chester Creek.

Wednesday January 1st 1862.

At 21 Outwards and 27 Inwards Camp we rested the horses, some of which

were very sore-footed and tired. We also observed New Year's Day by

dividing a bottle of rum, sundry pots of jam, and an extra allowance of

meat amongst us. The waterhole was nearly dry.

Thursday January 2nd. Number 27 camp.

At 6 a.m. we left 27 Inward and 21 Outward Camp, situated both on the

right bank of the creek; at 7.35 made two miles about east by north half

north down the creek; at 7.53 made three-quarters of a mile north-east to

Number 20 Camp; at 8.7 made half a mile east-north-east down the creek,

where we left it to go on the tableland on its left bank; at 9.5 made two

miles and three-quarters north to where we crossed a small creek, which

is from the west; at 10.45 made four miles and a half due north, and

there, having instructed Campbell and Allison to proceed to Clifton Creek

and encamp, accompanied by Fisherman, I went two miles and a half west,

and made our latitude by observation of the sun 19 degrees 31 minutes 35

seconds. Jemmy I had sent back for my rifle, which was left behind. At

12.45 started to camp; at 1.47 made two miles and a half east-north-east

to Camp 18 Outward and 28 Inward on Clifton Creek.

Friday January 3rd. Camp 28.

From old stubs out of cast-off shoes Mr. Allison shod a horse for

Fisherman to accompany me to the O'Shanassy River. We started for it at

11.50. At 1.25 reached it, in about four miles and a half, at a point a

short distance below, where we had been on it a few days ago. We found it

had been flooded since we last visited it, and the holes along its bed

were in consequence full of water. Judging from this that rain had fallen

from the southward, I felt disposed to proceed in that direction, but

considering the short time at my disposal and the condition of the horses

and their want of shoes, and knowing that the time was fast approaching

when the Victoria would, from want of provisions, be obliged to leave the

depot at the Gulf of Carpentaria, I considered it expedient to continue

my return journey.

Saturday January 4th. Camp 28.

We left Inward Camp 28 and Outward Camp 18 at 9.2. This camp is situated

on Clifton Creek; at 9.38 one mile and a quarter east down the creek to

the broad arrow L tree; at 10 made three-quarters of a mile north to

where we left the creek; at 10.20 made three-quarters of a mile

east-south-east to rich tableland; at 10.38 made half a mile south-east

by south to track where Mr. Allison stayed behind to get the latitude; at

10.50 made three-quarters of a mile east; at 11.18 made three-quarters of

a mile east to O'Shanassy River; at 11.52 made one mile and a half

north-east by north to the junction of Clifton Creek, on which we had our

last night's camp; at 12.16 made one mile north-east by north down the

river; at 12.45 made one mile and a quarter east by north down the river;

at 12.55 made half a mile east by north to junction of little creek from

the south. Ridges on both sides, long straight race covered with blady

grass, near deep reach of water, which has apparently a permanent stream;

at 1.30 made half a mile east by north to where we crossed a small creek

from the south; at 1.40 made half a mile east-north-east to where we

crossed, near its junction with the O'Shanassy River, a watercourse from

the south named by me the Douglas River; at 2.50 made one mile and a

quarter north down the river to where we crossed a small creek from the

south-east. The O'Shanassy has a good stream of water. On these ridges I

observed marjoram. They are nearly barren and confine the river closely

on both sides. At 3.15 made three-quarters of a mile north-east along a

confined part of the river where it has very high flood-marks; at 3.40

made half a mile east-north-east to where we crossed a little creek from

the south, near its junction. At 4.3 made quarter of a mile east down the

river; at 4.15 made quarter of a mile east-south-east down the river; at

4.30 made quarter of a mile east up a gully from right side of the river;

at 4.40 made quarter of a mile north-east down a gully to the river; at

4.50 made quarter of a mile east down the river to where we formed our

29th camp. Here we were joined by Mr. Allison and Jemmy. The former, near

where they left us, made the latitude 19 degrees 31 minutes 49 seconds,

which is nearly the same as I made it a few miles to the westward.

Sunday January 5. Camp 29.

Started at 8 a.m. and went along the edge of the river which was very

confined; so much so that the horses had at one place to be led.

Accompanied by Fisherman I left the party and went a few hundred yards

ahead to a creek full of water to widen with a pick a path up the creek.

While I was doing so Mr. Campbell reported that some of the horses had

gone into the river of their own accord, and one of them was drowned

although Jemmy and he had swum to its assistance. On hearing of this

misfortune I came down to the river, got the two troopers to go and dive

where the mare had disappeared, and they managed to get its saddle and

pack on shore. Fisherman, while the things were being dried, marked the

tree on the point at the junction of the watercourse with the river. The

former I have named Harris Creek. At 11.56 started again at point where

the tree is marked, say half a mile from camp; at 12.2 made half a mile

south-south-east from river up the creek, where we crossed after a delay

of eight minutes; at 12.33 made three-quarters of a mile north to where

we crossed the river; at 1.2 made one mile north down the river; at 1.27

made three-quarters of a mile north-east by north to where we formed our

Number 30 Camp, where the river is apparently often badly watered. At

this part of the river even now it is without a running stream although

recently flooded, and there is an absence of the pandanus, cabbage, and

tall drooping tea-trees which crowded the bed of the river higher up and

are fine signs of the permanence of the water.

Monday January 6. Camp 30.

Started from camp which is situated on left bank of O'Shanassy River at

6.52. At 7.8 made half a mile north-north-east down the left bank of the

river; at 7.40 made one mile and a quarter north-east to where we crossed

a creek near its junction, and also crossed to the right bank of the

river; at 7.57 made half a mile north-east to where we recrossed to left

bank of the river; at 8.15 made half a mile east-north-east to where we

crossed a little creek near its junction. The river is still confined by

barren and stony ranges and has flood-marks from thirty to forty feet

high. Kangaroos are numerous on this part of the country. At 8.43 made

three-quarters of a mile east to where we crossed, near its junction, a

small creek from the north; at 9.12 made one mile and a quarter east by

north to where there are flooded box and drooping tea-trees in the bed of

the river; at 9.25 made half a mile east to where there are cabbage-trees

in the river; at 9.40 made half a mile east to where there are Leichhardt

and cabbage-palm-trees; at 10.5 made three-quarters of a mile north-east

down the river (we have been following it when practicable on the left

side) at 10.45 made one mile and a quarter east down the river where it

is very confined and well watered; at 11.20 made half a mile

east-north-east to opposite junction of river from south, where I,

accompanied by Fisherman, left the party and crossed the river on a log

to see it. We found it rather smaller than the O'Shanassy and I have

named it the Thornton River. We marked a tree broad arrow before L on the

point between the two rivers and started after the party at 12; at 12.25

made one mile north-north-east along the track down the river; at 12.43

made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east along track down the river;

at 1.7 made one mile north to where we overtook Campbell and party,

having dinner on the bed of the river. Started again after marking a tree

broad arrow before L E, at 3.33; at 3.45 made half a mile north to where

the confined bed of the river is at places boggy and on the edge of the

waterhole the tea-trees are very tall; at 4.20 made three-quarters of a

mile north-north-west and camped.

Tuesday January 7. Camp 31 is situated on the left bank of the O'Shanassy

River.

We started from there at 9.10; at 9.45 made a mile and a quarter north by

east down the left bank of the O'Shanassy River; at 9.55 made a mile and

a quarter north-north-west to opposite junction of a watercourse which I

have named the Seymour River; at 10.12 made three-quarters of a mile

north-west to where we crossed a small creek with reeds in its bed at a

point near its junction with the river; at 10.37 made one mile north-west

by north along the left bank of the river, where we had a good road. The

river is still confined by ranges which sometimes terminate with cliffs;

at 10.48 made half a mile north-east to opposite junction of the creek;

at 10.54 made a quarter of a mile north-east to where we crossed a small

creek near its junction with the river; at 11.27 made one mile and a

quarter north by east along the left bank of the river; at 11.42 made

half a mile north; at 12 made three-quarters of a mile north-north-east

to where we watered the horses and waited for Mr. Campbell. Started again

at 12.30. At 12.53 made half a mile north-north-east. Made quarter mile

north to where we waited to mount Mr. Campbell who was tired of walking.

Started again at 1.3 p.m.; at 1.35 made a mile and a quarter north to

opposite junction of creek from the east; at 2 made one mile

west-north-west to where we formed our 32nd camp, on the left bank of the

river and right bank of a gully just above the junction of a small creek

with the river. If this had been a good season a fine place for the

horses would have been up this gully, as the soil is good with right kind

of grasses and surrounded by basaltic cliffs.

Wednesday January 8. Camp 32. Situated (as before) on the left bank of

the O'Shanassy River.

Left here at 7.7; at 7.18 went half a mile north-north-west to a cleft

hill on the left bank of the river; at 7.35 went three-quarters of a mile

north; at 7.52 went half a mile north-east; at 8 went quarter of a mile

east-north-east to where we got any quantity of figs from trees like the

Moreton Bay fig but another variety. At 8.20 made half a mile north-east.

This scrub is composed of Leichhardt, tea, fig, and cabbage-palm-trees,

where we were delayed till 8.42 from having to pull one of the horses

that had got into a boggy place out. Pandanus along the edge of the

reaches of water. At 9.10 made half a mile north-north-east through the

scrub; at 9.50 made one mile north by east through the scrub; at 10.5

made half a mile north-north-west which took us out of the scrub and to a

fine reach of water; at 10.20 made half a mile north-north-east to where

we crossed a small reedy creek near its junction with the river; at 10.35

made three-quarters of a mile north-north-east along the left side of the

reach of water mentioned. I, accompanied by Fisherman, here made a

deviation from the river. While Campbell and party proceeded down the

river we went up a gully of the richest soil, but all the vegetation was

withered from the dryness of the season. It, like the other gullies we

saw afterwards, was surrounded by basaltic hills, which were again

surrounded by basaltic columns composed of rocks of a more grotesque form

than the columns which are common in a granite formation. The rocks were

so rough that it was unpleasant to lean against them; and were very

severe on the feet of the horses. These columns, with the bottle-trees in

the foreground and the open flats and basaltic hills in the distance, had

a picturesque appearance. When we had got three-quarters of a mile about

north-west we started again to overtake our party. At 12.15 made one mile

and a quarter north down a gully; at 12.23 made quarter of a mile

north-east to where Fisherman and I thought we were on a flat of the

Gregory River near its junction with the O'Shanassy; at 12.52 made one

mile and a half east-north-east across the plains to the right of a range

towards Smith's Range, on the right side of the O'Shanassy River and its

junction with the Gregory River; at 1.9 made three-quarters of a mile

north to the left bank of the O'Shanassy River, where we got the tracks

of Campbell and party; at 1.45 made one mile and a half north-west to

broad arrow before L marked tree, on the point formed by the junction of

the Gregory with the O'Shanassy River, near which we found our party had

formed their 33rd camp on the right bank of the Gregory River.

Thursday January 9. Camp Number 33. Situated between the junction of the

Gregory and the O'Shanassy River.

We left here at 8 a.m.; at 8.15 made half a mile south-east to where we

crossed O'Shanassy River to follow down the Gregory River; at 8.37 made

three-quarters of a mile north. Then from the right bank of the river we

went round a hill which terminated abruptly at it; at 8.45 made quarter

of a mile east-north-east over stony ridges covered with triodia; at 8.53

made a quarter of a mile north-north-west over similar country; at 9.9

made half a mile north-west to the river; at 9.37 made one mile and a

quarter north-east by east to where we crossed a small creek near its

junction with the river; at 9.55 made three-quarters of a mile north-east

by east to where the river is confined on both sides by ridges; those on

the right side are isolated; at 10.45 made two miles and a quarter east

half north and delayed till 10.55; at 11.15 made three-quarters of a mile

east to a hill which rises abruptly from right side of river; at 11.26

made quarter of a mile south-east back from the river; at 11.45 made

three-quarters of a mile east-north-east to where we crossed a small

creek near its junction to the right side of the river; at 12.10 made one

mile north-east to a patch of good soil with good grass, but old and

withered. At 1.5 made two miles and three-quarters over flats and ridges,

the former of good soil but the grass burnt up from the dryness of the

season, the latter stony and badly grassed, to a gap with an isolated

hill on the north-west and two on the north-east side; at 1.22 made

three-quarters of a mile north to where we delayed at the river to water

the horses till 1.48; at 2.37 made two miles and a quarter east over fine

rich country, the grass of which was just beginning to show life in

consequence of recent rains; at 3 made one mile north-north-east to the

right bank of the river where we intended to camp, but were obliged to go

further as the horses could not water from the steepness of the banks. At

3.20 made one mile north-east and encamped where there is a rapid stream

of water about two feet deep below the reach I have mentioned.

Friday January 10. Camp Number 34, situated on the right bank near where

there is a good crossing place.

Mr. Allison at one o'clock this morning made an observation of Pollux

from an artificial horizon, which made its altitude 85 degrees 36

minutes. At 8.45 made one mile east-north-east over poor stony ridges and

light loamy flats, in which the tombung fruit-trees were plentiful, also

the following trees: bauhinia, broad-leaved box, broad-leaved Moreton Bay

ash, sweet-smelling jessamine, and bloodwood. The flats have got good

grasses and marjoram. The river has here isolated hills on its banks,

with ranges a mile or so back; at 8.55 made half a mile north-east by

east to river about 150 yards wide with high flood-marks, which I have

named the Ligar after the Surveyor-General of Victoria; at 9.6 made half

a mile east-north-east down the Ligar River to where we crossed it above

an isolated hill, where it was dry; at 9.30 made one mile north-east by

east to bluff rocky hill where the flood-marks are about 30 feet high,

west-north-west side; at 9.52 made one mile north-east along a range with

a bluff termination; at 10.35 made two miles and a quarter

east-north-east in sight of the high trees of the river; at 11 made one

mile east-north-east to the mount, on the west side of which, at the

Gregory River, we watered our horses and started again at 11.15; at 12.8

made two miles and a half north-east by east half east to west side of a

range; at 12.35 made one mile and a half north-east to Heales Creek and

gap in Primer Range; at 12.55 made three-quarters of a mile north-east

down the creek to the last hill coming down and the first going up the

river (I have named it Mount Heales after the premier of Victoria). It

was about one mile to the eastward of our course; at 1.5 made half a mile

north-north-east from left bank of Heales Creek; at 1.26 made

three-quarters of a mile north to Gregory River; at 1.30 made a quarter

of a mile north down the river and encamped.

Saturday January 11. Camp Number 35, situated north-west half north from

Mount Heales, on Premier Range, on the right bank of the Gregory.

We left here at 7.3 a.m. At 7.20 made three-quarters of a mile north,

which course keeps the tall trees of the river in sight; at 7.30 made

half a mile north; at 7.42 made half a mile north-east, which course

still keeps the tall trees of the river in sight; at 7.48 made a quarter

of a mile north-east by north to the edge of a rich plain of the Gregory

River; at 8.4 made half a mile north along the west side of plain; at

8.30 made one mile and a quarter north by east; at 8.40 made a quarter of

a mile north-north-east; at 9 made three-quarters of a mile north by

east, still keeping in sight of the tall trees on the river; at 9.24 made

one mile north by east; at 9.58 made one mile and a half north; at 10.15

made one mile north-east; at 10.27 made half a mile north-east by north;

over rich country, now beautifully grassed, slightly timbered along the

river and watercourses with bauhinia, broad-leaved stunted box,

broad-leaved Moreton Bay ash, bloodwood, acacia (which gives a gum like

gum arabic, and is plentiful near the depot) pomegranate, and other

trees; at 11 made one mile and a half north-east to the river, where we

stopped for Mr. Allison to get an observation of the sun. A short

distance to the eastward observed apparent altitude of sun, which made

our latitude 18 degrees 34 minutes 30 seconds. Started again at 2 p.m. At

2.15 made half a mile north by east; at 3 made two miles north-east by

north; at 3.30 made one mile and a half north by east; at 3.55 made one

mile north-east by north half north; at 4.13 made one mile north; at 4.30

made half a mile north-north-east; at 5.2 made one mile north by east; at

6.2 made two miles and a half north-north-east. By these courses we cut

off the bends of the river excepting towards the last when we got too far

away from it and required to make for it again. The country we went over

was from the greenness and length of the grass the finest-looking country

we have seen on the expedition; but I think the Barkly tableland is

superior to it from its having more salty herbage. The timber is of a

similar description to that I have recently mentioned except that the box

was stunted (narrow-leaved instead of broad). Having reached water in an

eastern channel of the river we formed our thirty-sixth camp on the right

bank of it.

Monday January 13. Camp Number 36, situated on the right bank of the

eastern channel of Beames Brook.

From here I sent Fisherman to the south-east in search of water in that

direction; and after Mr. Allison had made an observation of the sun,

placing us in latitude 18 degrees 31 minutes 37 seconds, got by observed

altitude 86.45. I left my party in camp and accompanied by Jemmy went in

the following directions: At 2.6 went one mile and a half north to where

I shot an emu, and started again at 3.6; at 4.6 went three miles north

over rich plains covered with most fattening grasses; at 4.42 went two

miles north-west half north to east channel of watercourse; at 5.10 went

three-quarters of a mile north half west along a deep reach; at 5.20 went

half a mile north-north-west over the finest plain country; at 5.40 went

half a mile north; at 6 went half a mile north-west; at 6.30 went about

one mile and a quarter north; at 7.30 went about two miles and

three-quarters north to where we encamped close to the right bank of

watercourse.

Tuesday January 14.

Continuation of excursion made by Jemmy and I down the watercourse from

36 Camp; at 6.50 made one mile and three-quarters about north to where we

crossed an eastern channel of the main watercourse; at 7.5 made

three-quarters of a mile about north-west; at 7.35 made one mile and a

quarter west to a running stream in a watercourse with banks so low that

a rise of a few feet would flood the adjoining plains; at 8.20 made two

miles about north-north-east over rich thickly-grassed country

intersected by several watercourses and swamps, where I felt convinced

was a watercourse to the eastward of the Gregory River (I afterwards

ascertained this to be so) which I then supposed to be Beames Brook, as I

thought we were on Gregory River when I started and intended following it

down on its right bank only to the crossing-place on our outward journey.

We took no rations whatever with us and delayed to 8.35; at 8.55 made one

mile south-east; at 9.23 made one mile and a quarter south-east by south

over a rich, well-grassed, and slightly-timbered plain to the eastern

channel of the watercourse, where we made our breakfast off figs and the

young wood of the cabbage-tree: we found it rather a light one, as we had

no supper on the previous night. Started again at 10.25; at 10.55 made

one mile and a half south-south-east; at 11.20 made one mile

south-south-east to where we crossed an eastern channel of the

watercourse; at 11.35 made three-quarters of a mile south-south-east; at

11.45 made half mile south by east; at 12.5 made one mile south by east;

at 12.15 made half a mile south by west; at 12.35 made one mile south

half west to watercourse where it has deep reaches of water and banks

about twenty-six feet high. I guessed the last entry of miles as my watch

had run down. We had a bath and started at 1.22. At 2.10 made two miles

and a quarter about south half east along the watercourse to an eastern

channel where the horses got water and we delayed until 2.22; at 2.44

made one mile south-east by south half south over plains; at 3.15 made

one mile and a half south over plains; at 3.32 made three-quarters of a

mile south-south-east over plains; at 4.5 made one mile and a half south

to emu tree, where we stayed to separate the best portions of the emu I

had shot and take them to camp; at 5.10 made one mile and a half north to

Number 36 Camp.

Wednesday January 15. Camp 36, situated on the right bank of Beames

Brook.

Fisherman informed me that he had gone on Monday a long half-day's

journey without finding any watercourse except one trending to the

north-west and which, from his description, I thought might join the one

I had seen about six miles distant. The country he saw in the course of

his ride was well-grassed, lightly timbered plains, the latter stretching

to the north-east. By climbing a tree he observed a range to the

south-east. We left our camp here at 7.25; at 8.48 made three miles and a

half north by west, which took us down rich plains with the river trees

in sight along our course; at 9.45 made two miles and three-quarters

north; at 11.15 made four miles and a half north, which course took us

out of sight of the trees on the river, over a similar country to that I

have described where we stopped for Mr. Allison to take an observation of

the sun, and for Mr. Campbell and Fisherman, who were behind, to come up.

Observations: altitude 86.52, latitude 18 degrees 18 minutes; we started

again at 12.34 p.m.; at 1.17 made two miles north-west to where we

crossed to the left side of eastern channel; at 1.35 made one mile

north-west to watercourse with fine stream of water; at 1.50 made

three-quarters of a mile north, where we watered the horses, and started

again at 4.25; at 4.33 made a quarter of a mile about north where Jemmy

and I encamped last Monday night; at 4.5 made one mile north-north-east

to where we crossed to left side of eastern watercourse; at 5.24 made one

mile and a half north-north-east over a thickly-grassed slightly-wooded

plain with flood-marks on it; at 6.2 made one mile and three-quarters

north over a similar country, slightly timbered with flooded box; at 6.13

made half a mile north-north-west; at 6.35 made three-quarters of a mile

north-west by north over similar country; then crossed during a

thunderstorm to left side of eastern channel of watercourse; at 7.15 made

one mile and a half west by north to the main channel of Beames Brook

which has a fine stream of water only a few feet below the level plains

on each side of it. The water was muddy from the recent shower and in

consequence anything but pleasant. Mosquitoes were very numerous and

allowed some of us but little sleep.

Thursday January 16. Camp Number 37. Situated on the right bank of Beames

Brook.

We left here at 7.16; at 8.30 made three-quarters of a mile north-east by

north to where we crossed to right side of an eastern channel of a

watercourse; at 10.5 made four miles and a half north-north-east over

level rich country, slightly timbered with stunted box and a small tree

like the Queensland sandalwood, called by Mr. Walker the gutta-percha

tree, and reached extensive plains; at 11.15 made three miles and a

quarter north-north-east over fine rich plains with the tall trees of the

banks of a watercourse in sight to the eastward: at 11.32 made

three-quarters of a mile north-north-west where we stopped on the plain,

and Mr. Allison made the following observation of the sun: altitude

86.45, latitude 18 degrees 0 minutes 50 seconds; started again at 12.58;

at 1.10 made one mile and a half north over fine slightly timbered downs,

but from the want of rain the grass on them was rather brown, to where we

crossed to the right bank of a watercourse (Barkly River) with high

flood-marks, but at present without water; at 1.20 made half a mile north

where we recrossed it; at 2.25 made three miles north to where we crossed

again to left side without finding water; we passed at this place a

number of blacks perched in the trees; at 3 made a quarter of a mile

north to where we stopped as we could not proceed in consequence of a

heavy thunderstorm and the bogginess of the ground; at 4.35 made quarter

of a mile south, then three-quarters of a mile northerly to where we

formed our thirty-eighth camp on the left of the main watercourse (Barkly

River).

Friday January 17. Camp Number 38. Situated on the left bank of Barkly

River.

The morning was wet so I thought that after the rain of yesterday we

could not proceed, but it cleared up between 8 and 9, and at 10.20 we

were packed up and started; at 10.45 made one mile north by east to the

tree marked Lieutenant Woods with line and broad arrow; at 12 made three

miles west to Beames Brook over richly grassed plains slightly wooded

with stunted box; at 1.30 made quarter mile south by east where we

crossed Beames Brook. We found the crossing-place a bad one; when a few

of the horses crossed it became so bad that we had to unpack and unsaddle

several before we could get them onto the firm ground on the left side of

the brook. This is the first stream of water we have crossed since we

left the O'Shanassy River near its junction with the Gregory. Beames

Brook therefore must connect the Gregory with the Albert River, which

accounts for the great size of the latter. At 1.55 made one mile north by

west; at 2.20 made three-quarters of a mile north-west to Nicholson

River, which has got a broad sandy bed so full of tea-tree that we could

not see its breadth at this place; at 2.35 made half a mile south-east by

east; at 2.55 made three-quarters of a mile east back to Beames Brook and

to our outward track; at 3.4 made half a mile north-east to tree broad

arrow before L, where we had on outward journey dined off the young wood

of a cabbage-tree. We also observed the tracks of an expedition party

trending towards the depot; at 4.10 made three miles north-east down the

brook and then down the plain; at 4.45 made one mile and a half east to

outward track; at 4.50 made half a mile south-west to our outward Number

2 Camp (Post Office Lagoon) where we expected to have got letters but in

this we were disappointed.

Sunday January 19.

Yesterday we rested ourselves and our horses; at 6.20 a.m. my party left

the Number 2 Camp of outward, and 39 of inward journey, situated at what

I call the Post Office Lagoon, near a point on the left side of the

Albert River, just above the Barkly and Beames Brook. I stayed behind,

attended by Jemmy, until 7.30, and marked the camp tree as I had done at

the other camp with my brand, the number of the camp, and the date; at

7.30 we made about half a mile in a north-north-east direction over rich

undulating well-grassed country, slightly timbered with flooded box; at

7.45 made three-quarters of a mile north-east; at 8 made three-quarters

of a mile north-east by north over similar country; at 8.18 made one mile

north-north-east across similar country with portions of it without

timber; at 8.37 made one mile north-east by north down well-grassed

plains with the timbered country extending from the Albert River about a

mile to the eastward of our track; at 8.46 made half a mile north-east;

at 10.10 made four miles and a quarter north-east down well-grassed

plains to where we stopped to rest the horses for ten minutes, as the

ground was very soft from the recent rain; at 10.35 made three-quarters

of a mile north-east by east to triangle made on the left bank of the

Albert River by Lieutenant Woods; at 10.58 made one mile north-east by

east to where we crossed Moore's Creek; at 11.10 made half a mile

north-east by east; at 11.20 made half a mile east-south-east to Albert

River depot.

(Signed) W. LANDSBOROUGH,

Commander of the Victoria and Queensland Land Expedition. 8th February

1862.

I hereby certify that this is a true and correct copy of Mr.

Landsborough's journal.