SARTOR RESARTUS

We now begin the study of the last of the three stages in the battle

between paganism and idealism. Having seen something of its primitive

and classical forms, we took a cross section of it in the seventeenth

century, and now we shall review one or two of its phases in our own

time. The leap from the seventeenth century to the twentieth necessarily

omits much that is vital and interesting. The eighteenth century, in its

stately and complacent fashion, produced some of the most deliberate and

finished types of paganism which the world has seen, and these were

opposed by memorable antagonists. We cannot linger there, however, but

must pass on to that great book which sounded the loudest bugle-note

which the nineteenth century heard calling men to arms in this warfare.

Nothing could be more violent than the sudden transition from Samuel

Pepys, that inveterate tumbler in the masque of life, whose absurdities

and antics we have been looking at but now, to this solemn and

tremendous book. Great in its own right, it is still greater when we

remember that it stands at the beginning of the modern conflict between

the material and spiritual development of England. Every student of the

fourteenth century is familiar with two great figures, typical of the

two contrasted features of its life. On the one hand stands Chaucer,

with his infinite human interest, his good-humour, and his inexhaustible

delight in man's life upon the earth. On the other hand, dark in shadows

as Chaucer is bright with sunshine, stands Langland, colossal in his

sadness, perplexed as he faces the facts of public life which are still

our problems, earnest as death. There is no one figure which corresponds

to Chaucer in the modern age, but Carlyle is certainly the counterpart

of Langland. Standing in the shadow, he sends forth his great voice to

his times, now breaking into sobs of pity, and anon into shrieks of

hoarse laughter, terrible to hear. He, too, is bewildered, and he comes

among his fellows "determined to pluck out the heart of the

mystery"--the mystery alike of his own times and of general human life

and destiny.

The book is in a great measure autobiographical, and is drawn from deep

wells of experience, thought, and feeling. Inasmuch as its writer was a

very typical Scotsman, it also was in a sense a manifesto of the

national convictions which had made much of the noblest part of Scottish

history, and which have served to stiffen the new races with which

Scottish emigrants have blended, and to put iron into their blood. It is

a book of incalculable importance, and if it be the case that it finds

fewer readers in the rising generation than it did among their fathers,

it is time that we returned to it. It is for want of such strong meat as

this that the spirit of an age tends to grow feeble.

The object of the present lecture is neither to explain _Sartor

Resartus_ nor to summarise it. It certainly requires explanation, and it

is no wonder that it puzzled the publishers. Before it was finally

accepted by Fraser, its author had "carried it about for some two years

from one terrified owl to another." When it appeared, the criticisms

passed on it were amusing enough. Among those mentioned by Professor

Nichol are, "A heap of clotted nonsense," and "When is that stupid

series of articles by the crazy tailor going to end?" A book which could

call forth such abuse, even from the dullest of minds, is certainly in

need of elucidation. Yet here, more perhaps than in any other volume one

could name, the interpretation must come from within. The truth which it

has to declare will appeal to each reader in the light of his own

experience of life. And the endeavour of the present lecture will simply

be to give a clue to its main purpose. Every reader, following up that

clue for himself, may find the growing interest and the irresistible

fascination which the Victorians found in it. And when we add that

without some knowledge of _Sartor_ it is impossible to understand any

serious book that has been written since it appeared, we do not

exaggerate so much as might be supposed on the first hearing of so

extraordinary a statement.

The first and chief difficulty with most readers is a very obvious and

elementary one. What is it all about? As you read, you can entertain no

doubt about the eloquence, the violent and unrestrained earnestness of

purpose, the unmistakable reserves of power behind the detonating words

and unforgettable phrases. But, after all, what is it that the man is

trying to say? This is certainly an unpromising beginning. Other great

prophets have prophesied in the vernacular; but "he that speaketh in an

unknown tongue speaketh not unto men but unto God; for no man

understandeth him; howbeit in the spirit he speaketh mysteries." Yet

there are some things which cannot convey their full meaning in the

vernacular, thoughts which must coin a language for themselves; and

although at first there may be much bewilderment and even irritation,

yet in the end we shall confess that the prophecy has found its proper

language.

Let us go back to the time in which the book was written. In the late

twenties and early thirties of the nineteenth century a quite

exceptional group of men and women were writing books. It was one of

those galaxies that now and then over-crowd the literary heavens with

stars. To mention only a few of the famous names, there were Byron,

Scott, Wordsworth, Dickens, Tennyson, and the Brownings. It fills one

with envy to think of days when any morning might bring a new volume

from any one of these. Emerson was very much alive then, and was already

corresponding with Carlyle. Goethe died in 1832, but not before he had

found in Carlyle one who "is almost more, at home in our literature than

ourselves," and who had penetrated to the innermost core of the German

writings of his day.

At that time, too, momentous changes were coming upon the industrial and

political life of England. In 1830 the Liverpool and Manchester Railway

was opened, and in 1832 the Reform Bill was passed. Men were standing in

the backwash of the French Revolution. The shouts of acclamation with

which the promise of that dawn was hailed, had been silenced long ago by

the bloody spectacle of Paris and the career of Napoleon Buonaparte. The

day of Byronism was over, and polite England was already settling down

to the conventionalities of the Early Victorian period. The romantic

school was passing away, and the new generation was turning from it to

seek reality in physical science. But deep below the conventionality and

the utilitarianism alike there remained from the Revolution its legacy

of lawlessness, and many were more intent on adventure than on

obedience.

It was in the midst of this confused _mêlée_ of opinions and impulses

that Thomas Carlyle strode into the lists with his strange book. On the

one hand it is a Titanic defence of the universe against the stage

Titanism of Byron's _Cain_. On the other hand it is a revolt of reality

against the empire of proprieties and appearances and shams. In a

generation divided between the red cap of France and the coal-scuttle

bonnet of England Carlyle stands bareheaded under the stars. Along with

him stand Benjamin Disraeli, combining a genuine sympathy for the poor

with a most grotesque delight in the aristocracy; and John Henry Newman,

fierce against the Liberals, and yet the author of "Lead, kindly Light."

The book was handicapped more heavily by its own style than perhaps any

book that ever fought its way from neglect and vituperation to

idolatrous popularity. There is in it an immense amount of gag and

patter, much of which is brilliant, but so wayward and fantastic as to

give a sense of restlessness and perpetual noise. The very title is

provoking, and not less so is the explanation of it--the pretended

discovery of a German volume upon "Clothes, their origin and influence,"

published by Stillschweigen and Co., of Weissnichtwo, and written by

Diogenes Teufelsdröckh. The puffs from the local newspaper, and the

correspondence with Hofrath "Grasshopper," in no wise lessen the odds

against such a work being taken seriously.

Again, as might be expected of a Professor of "Things in General," the

book is discursive to the point of bewilderment. The whole progeny of

"aerial, aquatic, and terrestrial devils" breaks loose upon us just as

we are about to begin such a list of human apparel as never yet was

published save in the catalogue of a museum collected by a madman. A dog

with a tin kettle at his tail rushes mad and jingling across the street,

leaving behind him a new view of the wild tyranny of Ambition. A great

personage loses much sawdust through a rent in his unfortunate nether

garments. Sirius and the Pleiades look down from above. The book is

everywhere, and everywhere at once. The _asides_ seem to occupy more

space than the main thesis, whatever that may be. Just when you think

you have found the meaning of the author at last, another display of

these fireworks distracts your attention. It is not dark enough to see

their full splendour, yet they confuse such daylight as you have.

Yet the main thesis cannot long remain in doubt. Through whatever

amazement and distraction, it becomes clear enough at last. Clothes,

which at once reveal and hide the man who wears them, are an allegory of

the infinitely varied aspects and appearances of the world, beneath

which lurk ultimate realities. But essential man is a naked animal, not

a clothed one, and truth can only be arrived at by the most drastic

stripping off of unreal appearances that cover it. The Professor will

not linger upon the consideration of the lord's star or the clown's

button, which are all that most men care to see: he will get down to the

essential lord and the essential clown. And this will be more than an

interesting literary occupation to him, or it will not long be that.

Truth and God are one, and the devil is the prince of lies. This

philosophy of clothes, then, is religion and not _belles lettres_. The

reason for our sojourn on earth, and the only ground of any hope for a

further sojourn elsewhere, is that in God's name we do battle with the

devil.

The quest of reality must obviously be wide as the universe, but if we

are to engage in it to any purpose we must definitely begin it

_somewhere_. A treatise on reality may easily be the most unreal of

things--a mere battle in the air. So long as it is a discussion of

theories it has this danger, and the first necessity is to bring the

search down to the region of experience and rigorously insist on its

remaining there. For this end the device of biography is adopted, and we

see the meaning of all that apparent byplay of the six paper bags, and

of the Weissnichtwo allusions which drop as puzzling fragments into Book

I. The second book is wholly biographical. It is in human life and

experience that we must fight our way through delusive appearances to

reality; and Carlyle constructs a typical and immortal biography.

To the childless old people, Andreas and Gretchen Futteral, leading

their sweet orchard life, there comes, in the dusk of evening, a

stranger of reverend aspect--comes, and leaves with them the "invaluable

Loan" of the baby Teufelsdröckh. Thenceforward, beside the little

Kuhbach stream, we watch the opening out of a human life, from infancy

to boyhood, and from boyhood to manhood. The story has been told a

million times, but never quite in this fashion before. For rough

delicacy, for exquisitely tender sternness, the biography is unique.

From the sleep of mere infancy the child is awakened to the

consciousness of creatorship by the gift of tools with which to make

things. Tales open up for him the long vistas of history; and the

stage-coach with its slow rolling blaze of lights teaches him geography,

and the far-flung imaginative suggestiveness of the road; while the

annual cattle-fair actually gathers the ends of the earth about his

wondering eyes, and gives him his first impression of the variety of

human life.

Childhood brings with it much that is sweet and gentle, flowing on like

the little Kuhbach; and yet suggests far thoughts of Time and Eternity,

concerning which we are evidently to hear more before the end. The

formal education he receives--that "wood and leather education"--calls

forth only protest. But the development of his spirit proceeds in spite

of it. So far as the passive side of character goes, he does

excellently. On the active side things go not so well. Already he begins

to chafe at the restraints of obedience, and the youthful spirit is

beating against its bars. The stupidities of an education which only

appeals to the one faculty of memory, and to that mainly by means of

birch-rods, increase the rebellion, and the sense of restraint is

brought to a climax when at last old Andreas dies. Then "the dark

bottomless Abyss, that lies under our feet, had yawned open; the pale

kingdoms of Death, with all their innumerable silent nations and

generations, stood before him; the inexorable word NEVER! now

first showed its meaning."

The youth is now ready to enter, as such a one inevitably must, upon the

long and losing battle of faith and doubt. He is at the theorising stage

as yet, not having learned to make anything, but only to discuss things.

And yet the time is not wasted if the mind have been taught to think.

For "truly a Thinking Man is the worst enemy the Prince of Darkness can

have."

The immediate consequence and employment of this unripe time of

half-awakened manhood is, however, unsatisfactory enough. There is much

reminiscence of early Edinburgh days, with their law studies, and

tutoring, and translating, in Teufelsdröckh's desultory period. The

climax of it is in those scornful sentences about Aesthetic Teas, to

which the hungry lion was invited, that he might feed on chickweed--well

for all concerned if it did not end in his feeding on the chickens

instead! It is an unwholesome time with the lad--a time of sullen

contempt alternating with loud rebellion, of mingled vanity and

self-indulgence, and of much sheer devilishness of temper.

Upon this exaggerated and most disagreeable period, lit by "red streaks

of unspeakable grandeur, yet also in the blackness of darkness," there

comes suddenly the master passion of romantic love. Had this adventure

proved successful, we should have simply had the old story, which ends

in "so they lived happily ever after." What the net result of all the

former strivings after truth and freedom would have been, we need not

inquire. For this is another story, equally old and to the end of time

ever newly repeated. There is much of Werther in it, and still more of

Jean Paul Richter. Its finest English counterpart is Longfellow's

_Hyperion_--the most beautiful piece of our literature, surely, that has

ever been forgotten--in which Richter's story lives again. But never has

the tale been more exquisitely told than in _Sartor Resartus_. For one

sweet hour of life the youth has been taken out of himself and pale

doubt flees far away. Life, that has been but a blasted heath, blooms

suddenly with unheard-of blossoms of hope and of delight. Then comes the

end. "Their lips were joined, their two souls, like two dewdrops, rushed

into one,--for the first time, and for the last! Thus was Teufelsdröckh

made immortal by a Kiss. And then? Why, then--thick curtains of Night

rushed over his soul, as rose the immeasurable Crash of Doom; and

through the ruins as of a shivered Universe was he falling, falling,

towards the Abyss."

The sorrows of Teufelsdröckh are but too well known. Flung back upon his

former dishevelment of mind from so great and calm a height, the crash

must necessarily be terrible. Yet he will not take up his life where he

left it to follow Blumine. Such an hour inevitably changes a man, for

better or for worse. There is at least a dignity about him now, even

while the "nameless Unrest" urges him forward through his darkened

world. The scenes of his childhood in the little Entepfuhl bring no

consolation. Nature, even in his wanderings among her mountains, is

equally futile, for the wanderer can never escape from his own shadow

among her solitudes. Yet is his nature not dissolved, but only

"compressed closer," as it were, and we watch the next stage of this

development with a sense that some mysteriously great and splendid

experience is on the eve of being born.

Thus we come to those three central chapters--chapters so fundamental

and so true to human life, that it is safe to prophesy that they will be

familiar so long as books are read upon the earth--"The Everlasting No,"

"Centre of Indifference" and "The Everlasting Yea."

In "The Everlasting No" we watch the work of negation upon the soul of

man. His life has capitulated to the Spirit that denies, and the

unbelief is as bitter as it is hopeless. "Doubt had darkened into

Unbelief; shade after shade goes grimly over your soul, till you have

the fixed, starless, Tartarean black." "Is there no God, then; but at

best an absentee God, sitting idle, ever since the first Sabbath, at the

outside of his Universe, and _seeing_ it go? Has the word Duty no

meaning?"

"Thus has the bewildered Wanderer to stand, as so many have done,

shouting question after question into the Sibyl-cave of Destiny, and

receive no Answer but an Echo." Faith, indeed, lies dormant but alive

beneath the doubt. But in the meantime the man's own weakness paralyses

action; and, while this paralysis lasts, all faith appears to have

departed. He has ceased to believe in himself, and to believe in his

friends. "The very Devil has been pulled down, you cannot so much as

believe in a Devil. To me the Universe was all void of Life, of Purpose,

of Volition, even of Hostility: it was one huge, dead, immeasurable

Steam-engine, rolling on, in its dead indifference, to grind men limb

from limb. O, the vast, gloomy, solitary Golgotha, and Mill of Death!"

He is saved from suicide simply by the after-shine of Christianity.

The religion of his fathers lingers, no longer as a creed, but as a

powerful set of associations and emotions. It is a small thing to cling

to amid the wrack of a man's universe; yet it holds until the appearance

of a new phase in which he is to find escape from the prison-house. He

has begun to realise that fear--a nameless fear of he knows not

what--has taken hold upon him. "I lived in a continual, indefinite,

pining fear; tremulous, pusillanimous." Fear affects men in widely

different ways. We have seen how this same vague "sense of enemies"

obsessed the youthful spirit of Marius the Epicurean, until it cleared

itself eventually into the conscience of a Christian man. But

Teufelsdröckh is prouder and more violent of spirit than the sedate and

patrician Roman, and he leaps at the throat of fear in a wild defiance.

"What _art_ thou afraid of? Wherefore, like a coward, dost thou forever

pip and whimper, and go cowering and trembling? Despicable biped! What

is the sum-total of the worst that lies before thee? Death? Well, Death:

and say the pangs of Tophet too, and all that the Devil and Man may,

will or can do against thee! Hast thou not a Heart; canst thou not

suffer whatsoever it be; and, as a Child of Freedom, though outcast,

trample Tophet itself under thy feet, while it consumes thee? Let it

come, then; I will meet it and defy it!"

This is no permanent or stable resting-place, but it is the beginning of

much. It is the assertion of self in indignation and wild defiance,

instead of the former misery of a man merely haunted by himself. This is

that "Baphometic Fire-baptism" or new-birth of spiritual awakening,

which is the beginning of true manhood. The Everlasting No had said:

"Behold, thou art fatherless, outcast, and the Universe is mine (the

Devil's); to which my whole Me now made answer: I am not thine, but

Free, and forever hate thee!"

The immediate result of this awakening is told in "Centre of

Indifference"--_i.e._, indifference to oneself, one's own feelings, and

even to fate. It is the transition from subjective to objective

interests, from eating one's own heart out to a sense of the wide and

living world by which one is surrounded. It is the same process which,

just about this time, Robert Browning was describing in _Paracelsus_ and

_Sordello_. Once more Teufelsdröckh travels, but this time how

differently! Instead of being absorbed by the haunting shadow of

himself, he sees the world full of vital interests--cities of men,

tilled fields, books, battlefields. The great questions of the

world--the true meanings alike of peace and war--claim his interest. The

great men, whether Goethe or Napoleon, do their work before his

astonished eyes. "Thus can the Professor, at least in lucid intervals,

look away from his own sorrows, over the many-coloured world, and

pertinently enough note what is passing there." He has

reached--strangely enough through self-assertion--the centre of

indifference to self, and of interest in other people and things. And

the supreme lesson of it all is the value of _efficiency_. Napoleon "was

a Divine Missionary, though unconscious of it; and preached, through the

cannon's throat, that great doctrine, _La carrière ouverte aux talens_

(the tools to him that can handle them)."

This bracing doctrine carries us at once into The Everlasting Yea. It is

not enough that a man pass from the morbid and self-centered mood to an

interest in the outward world that surrounds him. That might transform

him simply into a curious but heartless dilettante, a mere tourist of

the spirit, whose sole desire is to see and to take notes. But that

could never satisfy Carlyle; for that is but self-indulgence in its more

refined form of the lust of the eyes. It was not for this that the

Everlasting No had set Teufelsdröckh wailing, nor for this that he had

risen up in wrath and bidden defiance to fear. From his temptation in

the wilderness the Son of Man must come forth, not to wander

open-mouthed about the plain, but to work his way "into the higher

sunlit slopes of that Mountain which has no summit, or whose summit is

in Heaven only."

In other words, a great compassion for his fellow-men has come upon him.

"With other eyes, too, could I now look upon my fellow-man: with an

infinite Love, an infinite Pity. Poor, wandering, wayward man! Art thou

not tried, and beaten with stripes, even as I am? Ever, whether thou

bear the royal mantle or the beggar's gabardine, art thou not so weary,

so heavy-laden; and thy Bed of Rest is but a Grave. O my Brother, my

Brother, why cannot I shelter thee in my bosom, and wipe away all tears

from thy eyes!" The words remind us of the famous passage, occurring

early in the book, which describes the Professor's Watchtower. It was

suggested by the close-packed streets of Edinburgh's poorer quarter, as

seen from the slopes of the hills which stand close on her eastern side.

Probably no passage ever written has so vividly and suggestively massed

together the various and contradictory aspects of the human tragedy.

One more question, however, has yet to be answered before we have solved

our problem. What about happiness? We all cry aloud for it, and make its

presence or absence the criterion for judging the worth of days.

Teufelsdröckh goes to the heart of the matter with his usual directness.

It is this search for happiness which is the explanation of all the

unwholesomeness that culminated in the Everlasting No. "Because the

THOU (sweet gentleman) is not sufficiently honoured, nourished,

soft-bedded, and lovingly cared-for? Foolish soul! What Act of

Legislature was there that _thou_ shouldst be Happy? A little while ago

thou hadst no right to _be_ at all. What if thou wert born and

predestined not to be Happy, but to be Unhappy! Art thou nothing other

than a Vulture, then, that fliest through the Universe seeking after

somewhat to _eat_; and shrieking dolefully because carrion enough is not

given thee? Close thy _Byron_; open thy _Goethe_." In effect, happiness

is a relative term, which we can alter as we please by altering the

amount which we demand from life. "Fancy that thou deservest to be

hanged (as is most likely), thou wilt feel it happiness to be only shot:

fancy that thou deservest to be hanged in a hair-halter, it will be a

luxury to die in hemp."

Such teaching is neither sympathetic enough nor positive enough to be of

much use to poor mortals wrestling with their deepest problems. Yet in

the very negation of happiness he discovers a positive religion--the

religion of the Cross, the Worship of Sorrow. Expressed crudely, this

seems to endorse the ascetic fallacy of the value of self-denial for its

own sake. But from that it is saved by the divine element in sorrow

which Christ has brought--"Love not Pleasure; love God. This is the

EVERLASTING YEA, wherein all contradiction is solved: wherein

whoso walks and works, it is well with him."

This still leaves us perilously near to morbidness. The Worship of

Sorrow might well be but a natural and not less morbid reaction from the

former morbidness, the worship of self and happiness. From that,

however, it is saved by the word "works," which is spoken with emphasis

in this connection. So we pass to the last phase of the Everlasting Yea,

in which we return to the thesis upon which we began, viz., that "Doubt

of any sort cannot be removed except by action." "Do the Duty which

_lies nearest thee_, which thou knowest to be a Duty! Thy second Duty

will already have become clearer.... Yes here, in this poor, miserable,

hampered, despicable Actual, wherein thou even now standest, here or

nowhere is thy Ideal; work it out therefrom; and working, believe, live,

be free.... Produce! Produce! Were it but the pitifullest infinitesimal

fraction of a Product, produce it, in God's name! 'Tis the utmost thou

hast in thee; out with it, then. Up, up! Whatsoever thy hand findeth to

do, do it with thy whole might. Work while it is called Today; for the

Night cometh, wherein no man can work."

Thus the goal of human destiny is not any theory, however true; not any

happiness, however alluring. It is for practical purposes that the

universe is built, and he who would be "in tune with the universe" must

first and last be practical. In various forms this doctrine has

reappeared and shown itself potent. Ritschl based his system on

practical values in religion, and Professor William James has proclaimed

the same doctrine in a still wider application in his Pragmatism. The

essential element in both systems is that they lay the direct stress of

life, not upon abstract theory but upon experience and vital energy.

This transference from theorising and emotionalism to the prompt and

vigorous exercise of will upon the immediate circumstance, is Carlyle's

understanding of the word Conversion.

When it comes to the particular question of what work the Professor is

to do, the answer is that he has within him the Word Omnipotent, waiting

for a man to speak it forth. And here in this volume upon Clothes, this

_Sartor Resartus_, is his deliberate response to the great demand. At

first he seems here to relapse from the high seriousness of the chapters

we have just been reading, and to come with too great suddenness to

earth again. Yet that is not the case; for, as we shall see, the rest of

the volume is the attempt to reconstruct the universe on the principles

he has discovered within his own experience. The story to which we have

been listening is Teufelsdröckh's way of discovering reality; now we are

to have the statement of it on the wider planes of social and other

philosophy. This we shall briefly review, but the gist of the book is in

what we have already found. To most readers the quotations must have

been old and well-remembered friends. Yet they will pardon the

reappearance of them here, for they have been amongst the most powerful

of all wingéd words spoken in England for centuries. The reason for the

popularity of the book is that these biographical chapters are the

record of normal and typical human experience. This, or something like

this, will repeat itself so long as human nature lasts; and men, grown

discouraged with the mystery and bewilderment of life, will find heart

from these chapters to start "once more on their adventure, brave and

new."

This, then, is Teufelsdröckh's reconstruction of the world; and the

world of each one of us requires some such reconstruction. For life is

full of deceptive outward appearances, from which it is the task of

every man to come back in his own way to the realities within. The

shining example of such reconstruction is that of George Fox, who sewed

himself a suit of leather and went out to the woods with it--"Every

stitch of his needle pricking into the heart of slavery, and

world-worship, and the Mammon god." The leather suit is an allegory of

the whole. The appearances of men and things are but the fantastic

clothes with which they cover their nakedness. They take these clothes

of theirs to be themselves, and the first duty and only hope of a man is

to divest himself of all such coverings, and discover what manner of man

he really is.

This process of divesting, however, may yield either of two results. A

man may take, for the reality of himself, either the low view of human

nature, in which man is but "a forked straddling animal with bandy

legs," or the high view, in which he is a spirit, and unutterable

Mystery of Mysteries. It is the latter view which Thomas Carlyle

champions, through this and many other volumes, against the

materialistic thought of his time.

The chapter on Dandies is a most extraordinary attack on the keeping up

of appearances. The Dandy is he who not only keeps up appearances but

actually worships them. He is their advocate and special pleader. His

very office and function is to wear clothes. Here we have the illusion

stripped from much that we have taken for reality. Sectarianism is a

prominent example of it, the reading of fashionable novels is another.

In the former two are seen the robes of eternity flung over one very

vulgar form of self-worship, and in the latter the robe of fashionable

society is flung over another. The reality of man's intercourse with

Eternity and with his fellow-men has died within these vestures, but the

eyes of the public are satisfied, and never guess the corpse within.

Sectarianism and Vanity Fair are but common forms of self-worship, in

which every one is keeping up appearances, and is so intent upon that

exercise that all thought of reality has vanished.

A shallower philosopher would have been content with exposing these and

other shams; and consequently his philosophy would have led nowhere.

Carlyle is a greater thinker, and one who takes a wider view. He is no

enemy of clothes, although fools have put them to wrong uses and made

them the instruments of deception. His choice is not between worshipping

and abandoning the world and its appearances. He will frankly confess

the value of it and of its vesture, and so we have the chapter on

Adamitism, in defence of clothes, which acknowledges in great and

ingenious detail the many uses of the existing order of institutions.

But still, through all such acknowledgment, we are reminded constantly

of the main truth. All appearance is for the sake of reality, and all

tools for expressing the worker. When the appearance becomes a

substitute for the reality, and the tools absorb the attention that

should be devoted to the work for whose accomplishment they exist, then

we have relapsed into the fundamental human error. The object of the

book is to plunge back from appearance to reality, from clothes to him

who wears them. "Who am I? What is this ME?... some embodied,

visualised Idea in the Eternal Mind."

This swift retreat upon reality occurs at intervals throughout the whole

book, and in connection with every conceivable department of human life

and interest. In many parts there is little attempt at sequence or

order. The author has made voluminous notes on men and things, and the

whole fantastic structure of _Sartor Resartus_ is a device for

introducing these disjointedly. In the remainder of this lecture we

shall select and displace freely, in order to present the main teachings

of the book in manageable groups.

1. _Language and Thought._--Language is the natural garment of thoughts,

and while sometimes it performs its function of revealing them, it often

conceals them. Many people's whole intellectual life is spent in dealing

with words, and they never penetrate to the thoughts at all. Still more

commonly, people get lost among words, especially words which have come

to be used metaphorically, and again fail to penetrate to the thought.

Thus the _Name_ is the first garment wrapped around the essential

ME; and all speech, whether of science, poetry, or politics, is

simply an attempt at right naming. The names by which we call things are

apt to become labelled pigeon-holes in which we bury them. Having

catalogued and indexed our facts, we lose sight of them thenceforward,

and think and speak in terms of the catalogue. If you are a Liberal, it

is possible that all you may know or care to know about Conservatism is

the name. Nay, having catalogued yourself a Liberal, you may seldom even

find it necessary to inquire what the significance of Liberalism really

is. If you happen to be a Conservative, the corresponding risks will

certainly not be less.

The dangers of these word-garments, and the habit of losing all contact

with reality in our constant habit of living among mere words, naturally

suggest to Carlyle his favourite theme--a plea for silence. We all talk

too much, and the first lesson we have to learn on our way to reality is

to be oftener silent. This duty of silence, as has been wittily

remarked, Carlyle preaches in thirty-seven volumes of eloquent English

speech. "SILENCE and SECRECY! Altars might still be raised to them (were

this an altar-building time) for universal worship. Silence is the

element in which great things fashion themselves together; that at

length they may emerge, full-formed and majestic, into the daylight of

Life, which they are thenceforth to rule.... Nay, in thy own mean

perplexities, do thou thyself but _hold thy tongue for one day_: on the

morrow how much clearer are thy purposes and duties." Andreas, in his

old camp-sentinel days, once challenged the emperor himself with the

demand for the password. "Schweig, Hund!" replied Frederich; and

Andreas, telling the tale in after years would add, "There is what I

call a King."

Yet silence may be as devoid of reality as words, and most minds require

something external to quicken thought and fill up the emptiness of their

silences. So we have symbols, whose doctrine is here most eloquently

expounded. Man is not ruled by logic but by imagination, and a thousand

thoughts will rise at the call of some well-chosen symbol. In itself it

may be the poorest of things, with no intrinsic value at all--a clouted

shoe, an iron crown, a flag whose market value may be almost nothing.

Yet such a thing may so work upon men's silences as to fill them with

the glimmer of a divine idea.

Other symbols there are which _have_ intrinsic value--works of art,

lives of heroes, death itself, in all of which we may see Eternity

working through Time, and become aware of Reality amid the passing

shows. Religious symbols are the highest of all, and highest among these

stands Jesus of Nazareth. "Higher has the human Thought not yet reached:

this is Christianity and Christendom; a symbol of quite perennial,

infinite character; whose significance will ever demand to be anew

enquired into, and anew made manifest." In other words, Jesus stands for

all that is permanently noble and permanently real in human life.

Such symbols as have intrinsic value are indeed perennial. Time at

length effaces the others; they lose their associations, and become but

meaningless lumber. But these significant works and personalities can

never grow effete. They tell their own story to the succeeding

generations, blessing them with visions of reality and preserving them

from the Babel of meaningless words.

2. _Body and Spirit._--Souls are "rendered visible in bodies that took

shape and will lose it, melting into air." Thus bodies, and not spirits,

are the true apparitions, the souls being the realities which they both

reveal and hide. In fact, body is literally a garment of flesh--a

garment which the soul has for a time put on, but which it will lay

aside again. One of the greatest of all the idolatries of appearance is

our constant habit of judging one another by the attractiveness of the

bodily vesture. Many of the judgments which we pass upon our fellows

would be reversed if we trained ourselves to look through the vestures

of flesh to the men themselves--the souls that are hidden within.

The natural expansion of this is in the general doctrine of matter and

spirit. Purely material science--science which has lost the faculty of

wonder and of spiritual perception--is no true science at all. It is but

a pair of spectacles without an eye. For all material things are but

emblems of spiritual things--shadows or images of things in the

heavens--and apart from these they have no reality at all.

3. _Society and Social Problems._--It follows naturally that a change

must come upon our ways of regarding the relations of man to man. If

every man is indeed a temple of the divine, and therefore to be revered,

then much of our accepted estimates and standards of social judgment

will have to be abandoned. Society, as it exists, is founded on class

distinctions which largely consist in the exaltation of idleness and

wealth. Against this we have much eloquent protest. "Venerable to me is

the hard hand; crooked, coarse; wherein notwithstanding lies a cunning

virtue, indefeasibly royal, as of the Sceptre of this Planet. Venerable

too is the rugged face, all weather-tanned, besoiled, with its rude

intelligence; for it is the face of a Man living man like." How far away

we are from all this with our mammon-worship and our fantastic social

unrealities, every student of our times must know, or at least must have

often heard. He would not have heard it so often, however, had not

Thomas Carlyle cried it out with that harsh voice of his, in this and

many others of his books. It was his gunpowder, more than any other

explosive of the nineteenth century, that broke up the immense

complacency into which half England always tends to relapse.

He is not hopeless of the future of society. Society is the true

Phoenix, ever repeating the miracle of its resurrection from the ashes

of the former fire. There are indestructible elements in the race of

man--"organic filaments" he calls them--which bind society together, and

which ensure a future for the race after any past, however lamentable.

Those "organic filaments" are Carlyle's idea of Social Reality--the real

things which survive all revolution. There are four such realities which

ensure the future for society even when it seems extinct.

First, there is the fact of man's brotherhood to man--a fact quite

independent of man's willingness to acknowledge that brotherhood.

Second, there is the common bond of tradition, and all our debt to the

past, which is a fact equally independent of our willingness to

acknowledge it. Third, there is the natural and inevitable fact of man's

necessity for reverencing some one above him. Obedience and reverence

are forthcoming, whenever man is in the presence of what he _ought_ to

reverence, and so hero-worship is secure.

These three bonds of social reality are inseparable from one another.

The first, the brotherhood of man, has often been used as the watchword

of a false independence. It is only possible on the condition of

reverence and obedience for that which is higher than oneself, either in

the past or the present. "Suspicion of 'Servility,' of reverence for

Superiors, the very dog-leech is anxious to disavow. Fools! Were your

Superiors worthy to govern, and you worthy to obey, reverence for them

were even your only possible freedom." These three, then, are the social

realities, and all other social distinctions and conventionalities are

but clothes, to be replaced or thrown away at need.

But there is a fourth bond of social reality--the greatest and most

powerful of all. That reality is Religion. Here, too, we must

distinguish clothes from that which they cover--forms of religion from

religion itself. Church-clothes, indeed, are as necessary as any other

clothes, and they will harm no one who remembers that they are but

clothes, and distinguishes between faith and form. The old forms are

already being discarded, yet Religion is so vital that it will always

find new forms for itself, suited to the new age. For religion, in one

form or in another, is absolutely essential to society; and, being a

grand reality, will continue to keep society from collapse.

4. From this we pass naturally to the great and final doctrine in which

the philosophy of clothes is expounded. That doctrine, condensed into a

single sentence, is that "the whole Universe is the Garment of God."

This brings us back to the song of the _Erdgeist_ in Goethe's _Faust_:--

"In Being's floods, in Action's storm,

I walk and work, above, beneath,

Work and weave in endless motion!

Birth and Death,

An infinite ocean;

A seizing and giving

The fire of Living:

'Tis thus at the roaring Loom of Time I ply,

And weave for God the Garment thou seest Him by."

This is, of course, no novelty invented by Goethe. We find it in Marius

the Epicurean, and he found it in ancient wells of Greek philosophy.

Carlyle's use of it has often been taken for Pantheism. In so mystic a

region it is impossible to expect precise theological definition, and

yet it is right to remember that Carlyle does not identify the garment

with its Wearer. The whole argument of the book is to distinguish

appearance from reality in every instance, and this is no exception.

"What is Nature? Ha! why do I not name thee God? Art thou not the

'living garment of God'? O Heavens, is it in very deed He, then, that

ever speaks through thee? that lives and loves in thee, that lives and

loves in me?... The Universe is not dead and demoniacal, a charnel-house

with spectres: but godlike and my Father's." "This fair Universe, were

it in the meanest province thereof, is in very deed the star-domed City

of God; through every star, through every grass-blade, and most

through every Living Soul, the glory of a present God still beams. But

Nature, which is the Time-vesture of God, and reveals Him to the wise,

hides Him from the foolish."

Such is some very broken sketch of this great book. It will at least

serve to recall to the memory of some readers thoughts and words which

long ago stirred their blood in youth. No volume could so fitly be

chosen as a background against which to view the modern surge of the

age-long battle. But the charm of _Sartor Resartus_ is, after all,

personal. We go back to the life-story of Teufelsdröckh, out of which

such varied and such lofty teachings sprang, and we read it over and

over again because we find in it so much that is our own story too.

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