have been found a source of great beneficial occupation and amusement
during winters passed in the Arctic regions, where it is a matter of
prime importance that the spirits of the men should be kept as even and
jolly as possible. But there were several reasons why the crew of the
_Tegetthoff_ were compelled to forego such recreations. Their numerical
strength was too small; the languages spoken on board were too diverse;
for the crew was a very mixed one, including Germans, Italians,
Hungarians, and Slavs, all orders, however, being issued in Italian;
and the performance must have been given in four separate languages.
There was no other place available for a theatre than the barricaded
deck, where the spectators would have had to sit enduring a temperature
of from twenty to thirty degrees of cold; and lastly, there was a
general feeling that the situation of the party was a far too serious
and critical one for such diversions to be so welcome as other Arctic
expeditions have found them.
During the first winter the _Tegetthoff_ drifted through the wandering
ice for the most part in a north-easterly direction. When a little
north of seventy-four degrees, she took a turn towards the west in
February 1873. Her course was now a generally westward one, but with
variations. In the spring and summer of 1873 every effort was of
course again put forth to free her from the ice. All endeavour in this
direction, however, still proved ineffectual, and the little party
again prepared, though with very anxious and depressed hearts, to face
a second winter. But through the long gloom of that second winter they
were to be buoyed up by hope and expectation. In August the ship took a
turn northward, when suddenly, 'as if by magic,' the mists lifted, and
behold! a vast shape, high, bold, and rocky, loomed out of the fog on
the vessel's bows. It was land beyond a doubt, new land; and fresh hope
and life filled every breast at the sight. The whole aspect of things
suddenly changed for the explorers. They had now something to look
forward to through the long winter--namely, the exploration of that
new land which they had discovered, or as it may be said, which had
discovered them.
When the land first revealed itself to the explorers, it was too late
in the season to leave the ship for purposes of exploration, and so the
_Tegetthoff_ remained close by it, still fast in the ice, all through
the succeeding winter, during which one disturbing thought troubled
the minds of all on board, the fear, namely, that the vessel might
drift away again from the land, and all the hopes of the expedition
end in nothing. But no such untoward fortune awaited them. When the
spring came round, and the long darkness waned, the light revealed the
land still in the same position. And now preparations began to visit
the new-found land. Three separate sledge-journeys were made from the
ship, all under the command of Lieutenant Payer. The first journey
began early in March 1874, and was a short one. The party comprised
six men and three dogs; but as Lieutenant Payer contemplated making
his second journey the most important one, he reserved the pick of the
crew for it. It will be understood that it required no little courage
and patient endurance on the part of the handful of men engaged in this
first sledge-journey across the desolate wastes of ice, when it is
stated that their physical condition was very far from being perfect.
'Pospischill suffered from lung-disease; Lurkinovich from palpitation
of the heart; Haller from chronic rheumatism; Lettis from a tendency
to bronchial catarrh.' It is therefore all the more creditable to
these men that they bore up so well, and accomplished so much, for the
first sledge-expedition did all that its leader expected from it. The
position of the new land and its general character were determined;
Wilczek Island and the south part of Hall Island explored; and from the
results thus arrived at, Lieutenant Payer was enabled to arrange a plan
for a more protracted journey towards the north.
The second sledge-expedition was by far the most important of the
three. It started from the ship on the 26th of March in the thick
of a snowstorm. After enduring the most excessive toil and hardship,
the party penetrated northwards to a distance of one hundred and
sixty miles, as far as it was possible to go with sledges. The cold
endured during these sledge-journeys was often most intense. The men
never dared to bring their lips in contact with a metal cup in the
act of drinking. One shook the liquid into his companion's mouth. The
strongest rum seemed to lose all its strength, and had the taste of
milk and the consistence of oil. The bread was frozen so hard that
there was danger of breaking the teeth in eating it, and it brought
blood as it was being consumed. The instruments used by Lieutenant
Payer in surveying burned when he touched them; and the medals worn
by some of the men felt like hot iron, proving the truth of the
saying that 'extremes meet.' The furthest point northward reached by
Lieutenant Payer and his party was Cape Fligely, 85° 5′, where the
Austro-Hungarian flag was planted for the first time in the far north.
Gladly would the Lieutenant have visited the lands beheld from that
northern peak, could he have done so with any degree of safety. But he
felt that he had gone as far as the resources at his command warranted,
and wisely shrank from further risking the lives of his brave followers.
The work accomplished by the second sledge-journey was a sufficiently
thorough exploration of Kaiser Franz Joseph Land--named after the
Austrian emperor--and the exploration of Austria Sound, which divides
Franz Joseph Land into Wilczek Land and Zichy Land. Lieutenant Payer
returned to the ship well satisfied with the results achieved;
and we think he had every reason for being so. He had, by careful
investigations, surveys, and drawings, arrived at a very satisfactory
conception of the newly discovered land.
Kaiser Franz Joseph Land is an archipelago, of about equal dimensions
to Spitzbergen, extending from eighty degrees or thereabouts to at
least eighty-three degrees north latitude, but how far from east
to west was not determined. It is a very barren region, as may be
believed, containing mountains from two to five thousand feet high,
glaciers of great size, and many deep fiords. Animal life is abundant,
bears and seals and Arctic birds in great variety, vast numbers being
found by the explorers in many parts. No trace of human beings was
anywhere discovered, and Lieutenant Payer believes the region to be
uninhabitable by man. By the geological formation of the islands,
which seem to be of volcanic origin, the explorer was reminded of the
north-east coast of Greenland. A third and final sledge-journey was
made by which the north-west coasts of M'Clintock Island were visited.
The sledge-expeditions began on March 10, 1874, and ended May 3d,
during which period a distance of four hundred and fifty miles was
traversed.
While these expeditions were being made, the ship was all the while
fast in the ice; and as there seemed no prospect of getting free, it
was resolved to abandon her. To remain another winter with the hope of
further discoveries, would have been, under the circumstances, a very
great risk. Provisions were becoming scant, and the physical condition
of the men, so severely tried by the two winters already passed amid
the ice, was far too low to make it safe to face a third. And all now
felt that they could return to their country at least with honour. The
_Tegetthoff_ was abandoned on the 20th of May 1874, and the return
journey to Europe began. But the dangers and hardships of the explorers
were by no means yet over. The progress southward, now in the sledges,
now by boats, was toilsome, painful, and slow in the extreme. To convey
a conception of this it is sufficient to state that 'after two months
of indescribable efforts, the distance between us and the ship was not
more than two German miles;' a space that would be equal to about nine
English miles. Does not this rate of progress correspond in a striking
degree with the experience of our own recent Arctic expedition in
traversing the terrible 'sea of ancient ice?' But had the ice of the
Novaya Zemlya seas remained much longer as formidable as it did to the
sledge-parties of Commander Markham and his colleagues, the Austrian
expedition party must have one and all perished. But fortunately, at
the end of two months' travelling, and when the men had almost begun
to despair, 'leads' unexpectedly opened up in the ice; and after one
more month of sledging and boating, the open ocean was reached in 77°
40′; an unusually high latitude. Ultimately the party were picked up,
as they had hoped for, by a Russian fishing-vessel, off Cape Britwin,
minus one only of its members, poor Krisch the engineer, who had died
of consumption shortly before the abandonment of the ship.
The literary skill with which the writer of these volumes has told the
story of the Austrian Arctic Expedition is quite equal to the best of
similar narratives by any former Arctic explorer. He describes the
really wonderful fortunes of the expedition, through all its many
vicissitudes and perils, simply and modestly, yet with great vividness
and realistic power. His story purports to be no more than a popular
narrative of what Austria has accomplished in Arctic discovery; but
it is really more than this. In addition to their interest as a
record of courageous enterprise and patient resolution and endurance
in the face of the most excessive hardships, the volumes possess a
distinct scientific value; for their author is an accomplished man of
science, as well as a brave navigator and explorer. In a portion of
the introductory chapters, Lieutenant Payer treats at length and with
great clearness the various theories that have at different times been
put forward as to the existence of an open Polar sea. He unhesitatingly
concludes that no such sea exists; a conclusion which agrees with the
actual discoveries of our own Arctic expedition. From this opinion,
however, his colleague Commander Weyprecht, dissents, as does also the
eminent German geographer Dr Petermann. 'The Pole impracticable;' such
was the brief telegraphic summary with which the announcement of the
return of the _Alert_ and _Discovery_ was heralded. But Captain Nares
has since modified this expression. He wishes it to be understood that
all he means to affirm is, that the Pole is impracticable by the route
taken by the _Alert_ and _Discovery_, and with the present existing
scientific appliances.
Impracticable the North Pole may perhaps ever remain, if the state of
the ice encountered by our expedition and by Lieutenant Payer be its
normal one. But of this we have as yet no certain proof; nor yet, in
spite of our author's well-reasoned conclusions, that in some seasons
an open sea may not exist. Some of our readers may remember that the
American expedition in the _Polaris_, under Captain Hall, found open
water where the sledging-parties of the _Alert_ and _Discovery_ found
only vast ice masses of a hundred and fifty feet in height. It appears
to us then that nothing dogmatic can be said on one side or the other
in respect to this question.
One other point raised by Lieutenant Payer is deserving of note,
which is, that in all Arctic exploration there are two objects to
be considered, and that these are distinct, and not, as has been
too often supposed, identical. These are--the 'reaching of the
North Pole,' and 'the exploration of the Polar regions.' The former
appeals more to the imaginative and romantic side of our nature; but
Lieutenant Payer takes a broader view of the question. He believes, in
conjunction with Commander Weyprecht, that the Polar regions afford
special facilities--greater perhaps than any quarter of the globe--for
observations of natural phenomena--magnetism, the aurora, &c.; and
for the study of geology, zoology, and botany. In short, while not
undervaluing the importance of geographical discovery, he holds that
the prime object of future Arctic expeditions should be the increasing
of our knowledge of natural phenomena, for the observation of which
these northern regions offer such great advantages.
FOOTNOTES:
[A] _New Lands within the Arctic Circle. Narrative of the Discoveries
of the Austrian Ship Tegetthoff in the Years 1872-1874._ By Julius
Payer, one of the Commanders of the Expedition. Macmillan & Co.
A CURATE'S HOLIDAY.
IN FOUR CHAPTERS.--CHAPTER IV.
It was not long past noon when I alighted before the door of the
_Ship and Anchor_ at Lleyrudrigg. But instead of entering that inn, I
waited merely until Jonathan had driven the dog-cart to a stable-yard
round the corner, and then walked away at a quick pace towards the
beach. Arrived there, I collected a number of fishermen whom, in
accordance with my anticipations, I found loitering about the sands,
and told them my story. I did so in as clear and succinct a manner as
possible, commencing with an account of Mr John Williams's suspicious
conduct, and proceeding in regular order to its termination. The
narrative, however, was frequently interrupted by excited exclamations
from the sturdy Welshmen, and its progress considerably delayed by
the necessity for interpretation to those amongst them who did not
understand English. By the time it was finished quite a small crowd had
gathered around me; and when finally I made an appeal for assistance
in rescuing Mr Morgan from his dangerous situation, a dozen stout
fellows volunteered to accompany me to the spot. Thanking them with no
hypocritical cordiality, I inquired, albeit with some doubt, whether
conveyance for so large a party could be obtained in the village.
Unhesitatingly a chorus of voices assured me in reply that the best and
speediest method of returning to the Spike Rocks would be by sea--one
of the sailors adding the agreeable intelligence, that with wind and
tide both in our favour as they were at present, we might hope to reach
them in little over an hour.
The suggestion meeting, as I need scarcely say, with my delighted
approval, a friendly contention ensued as to which of the
fishing-smacks offered by their respective owners for the purpose
should have the honour of making the little voyage. But hastened
by my impatient entreaties, the question was quickly and amicably
settled; and the anchor of the selected vessel having been weighed, I
embarked along with my rough but kindly natured companions. As might
be expected, all conversation during the short sail turned exclusively
on the one theme, and over and over again I was called upon to repeat
to those of the fishermen not engaged in working the vessel, portions
of the tale I had already related. But the information was not all on
one side, since for my part I learned from my seafaring associates
one or two very significant facts--the chief amongst them being that
the owners of Spike Rock Farm and of the _Ship and Anchor_ inn were
brothers; and that two other gentlemen who had visited the Spike Rocks,
after staying at the hotel in Lleyrudrigg, had also mysteriously
disappeared from that neighbourhood. With light thrown upon the matter
by the former of these facts, I now understood how it was that the
farmer's physiognomy had impressed me as familiar--the resemblance
between the brothers, though not very striking, being quite sufficient
to account for it--and by the latter I was, if possible, more
thoroughly convinced than ever of the diabolical premeditation with
which the intended murder had been committed.
The sailor who had made it proved to be not far wrong in his
calculation as to the length of time it would take to reach our
destination. Exactly one hour and a quarter after quitting Lleyrudrigg
we landed, with some difficulty, a little beyond the bird-haunted
crags, and at once started, almost at a run, for the farther of the
two 'Devils' Holes,' the seamen, by my direction, carrying with them
a coil of strong rope. But although upon attaining it, we all shouted
in concert, urging my reverend friend to make some sign from his place
of concealment, no response was given to the summons. And when time
after time it had been repeated without other result than a series of
echoes, loud enough to be heard above the din of the restless waters
below, I could see some of the men beginning to look at me askance;
then gradually upon the faces of one or two the air of questioning
doubt gave place to an angry scowl; and from certain low mutterings
which reached my ear, I gathered that an impression was beginning to be
formed that I was either mad, or that I had mischievously brought them
upon a fool's errand.
Determined at once to alter this state of affairs, I adopted what,
with my sensitiveness to giddiness, was certainly a bold measure.
Requesting that the rope might be fastened about my waist, I directed
my companions to lower me to the spot in which I asserted that I had
seen the minister. Reassured by the confidence implied in this step,
the men obeyed; and accordingly, I shortly found myself swinging within
that awful chasm, with the rope vibrating to and fro, and a deafening
roar coming up from beneath. Presently my feet touched the slanting
granite shelf described in the previous chapter, and immediately I felt
them slip from under me; then, as the rope paid out with a jerk, I slid
downwards through a narrow opening into a minute cave in the rock, and
lay there for a few moments stunned by the violence of a blow which my
head had received in the fall. Upon recovering consciousness, I found
myself resting upon the body of my friend; and moving so as to obtain
a view of his face, I soon discovered why there had been no reply to
our reiterated calls.
The little minister--I saw it with deep thankfulness--was still
alive, but his ears had been rendered obtuse by the delirium of a
raging fever. His eyes, wide open, were fixed upon the roof of the
tiny cavern, and though, upon my addressing him, they wandered during
several seconds over my countenance, it was without the slightest sign
of recognition. He commenced a rigmarole of rambling disconnected
sentences, at all times painful to hear from the lips of the poor
sufferer from a perturbed brain, but which, uttered in that weird and
awful place, was naturally invested with double horror. My fingers
trembling in the attempt, I now hastened to undo the rope from about my
own person, in order that I might secure it round that of Mr Morgan.
But owing to the opposition offered by the unconscious man, the task
proved to be one of no small difficulty. At length, however, it was
accomplished; and signing to those above to draw in the rope, I gently
guided the body of the little Welshman through the entrance to the
cavern, noticing as I did so that his right leg was fractured and
terribly swollen. Not caring to witness the perilous ascent, I remained
within the cave until a loud 'Hurrah!' proclaimed his safe arrival upon
_terra firma_. Then scrambling out, I watched the rope re-descending,
once more adjusted it round my waist, and in a few moments afterwards
was kneeling by my friend's side upon the grass, and at the request of
the excited fishermen, searching his pockets for the huge wash-leather
purse of which I had spoken to them.
Its absence, as well as that of his watch and chain, appeared to settle
beyond question in their minds the fact that there had been foul-play;
and a motion emanating from one of their number that we should take
the law into our own hands, and proceed to arrest the farmer and his
family, was unanimously carried.
Accordingly, leaving Mr Morgan under the care of a couple of the elder
men, we adjourned in a body to the Spike Rock Farm; but only to find
it, to our extreme mortification, entirely untenanted. Evidences,
however, of hasty flight existed in such abundance, that we could
not but conclude that its late inmates had only just departed. And
confirmation of this supposition was not wanting; for one of the
sailors, gazing from an upper window, presently espied, far down
the winding lane up which I had yestere'en driven, a mass of heads
progressing rapidly, but with a jolting kind of motion, as though their
owners were being carried along in a spring-cart or some such vehicle.
Drawing the obvious inference that our large party must have been seen
by the criminals, surrounding the supposed grave of their victim,
and that conscious guilt having excited their alarm, they were now
endeavouring to escape from the justice which would follow detection,
we consulted with each other as to what it were best to do. The result
of the conference was a decision to take the vessel farther round the
headland, to a small town where better accommodation could be found
for the sick man than at Lleyrudrigg, and in the vicinity of which was
a station of coast-guardsmen. This resolution being promptly carried
out, Mr Morgan was conveyed upon landing to a comfortable hotel, where
a physician was speedily procured to attend him; and accompanied by my
corps of witnesses, I proceeded to lay before the proper authorities a
full statement of the events I have described, and to place the case in
their hands. Then bestowing upon my quondam companions a good dinner,
and promising to obtain for them a reward for their services, which I
was myself unable to afford, I walked with them to the landing-stage,
and saw them off upon their return voyage. A message directed that same
afternoon to Mrs Morgan, Pwlwyn, brought with great celerity to the
side of the little minister the tenderest and most devoted nurse in
the world; and before many days, he was so far recovered as to be able
to supply any further testimony which was wanting for the conviction
of his intending murderers. Such testimony, however, had by that time
become almost unnecessary, since upon being captured (as they had been
with prompt despatch), the youngest of the culprits had consented to
earn a pardon by turning king's evidence. By this lad's confession it
was now clearly proved that the minister's glass of spirits had, as
I had suspected, been heavily drugged, that his three hundred pounds
had been stolen, and that he himself had been cast into the 'Devil's
Hole;' and from the same source it was also ascertained that two other
gentlemen--one of them a jeweller, known to be travelling with valuable
diamonds in his possession--had by Abel Williams, owner of Spike Rock
Farm, and his two eldest sons, and at the instigation of John Williams
of Lleyrudrigg, been done to death by being precipitated into the same
chasm.
At the following summer assizes, Abel, Robert, and Thomas Williams were
condemned to suffer the full penalty of the law; Jonathan Williams
the hunchback and the farmer's remaining sons received sentences of
imprisonment of more or less severity; whilst to the landlord of
the _Ship and Anchor_ was awarded the well-merited punishment of
transportation for life.
A few sentences will now suffice to complete my story. At the urgent
request of the good couple, to whom I had become sincerely attached,
and to whom indeed my services for the journey were, I thought, almost
indispensable, I consented to return with them to their home. I did
not, however, when giving that consent, intend to remain longer than
one evening at Pwlwyn--my leave of absence from my duties having long
since expired. But strange to say, when a full week had elapsed I was
still lingering in that small and in itself unattractive Welsh village;
and it was not until an entire change in my sentiments and in all my
prospects for life had been wrought by my visit, that I eventually left
it for Ollyhill.