CINCINNATI, July 19th.
_My dear E._--As much as we had heard of Cincinnati, we were astonished
at its beauty and extent, and of the solidity of its buildings. It well
merits the name bestowed upon it here,--_Queen of the west_. We have
explored it thoroughly by riding and walking, and pronounce it a
wonderful city. The hotel to which we were recommended, the Broadway
House, was commodious and well conducted. The family is a very agreeable
one, and well educated, but remain in their own private apartments.
There are numerous other hotels of all descriptions, but none rival it,
unless it may be the new one called the Henri House. Soon after
breakfast we ordered a carriage, which we found to be quite as handsome
as any we have in our city. We spent the morning slowly driving up and
down each street, along the Miami canal, and in the environs of the city
in every direction, and were quite astonished--not because we had never
seen larger and finer cities, but that this should have arisen in what
was so lately a wilderness. Its date, you know, is only thirty years
back. The rows of stores and ware-houses; the extensive and ornamented
private dwellings; the thirty churches, many of them very handsome, and
other public buildings, excited our surprise. Main street is the
principal business mart. While in the centre of this street, we mark it
for a mile ascending the slope upon which the town is built, and in
front it seems interminable, for the river being low, we do not observe
we are looking across it to the street of the opposite city of
Covington, until a steamboat passing, tells us where the city ends.
Broadway is another main artery of this city; not, however, devoted to
business, but bounded upon each side by rows of handsome dwellings.
Third, Fourth, Seventh, Vine, and many other streets, show private
houses not surpassed by any city we had visited. They are generally
extensive, and surrounded by gardens, and almost concealed from view of
the passers, by groves of shade trees and ornamental shrubbery. An
accidental opening among the trees shows you a glimpse of a piazza or
pavillion, where, among groves and gardens, the air may be enjoyed by
the children or ladies of the family.
We visited a museum in hopes of seeing some Indian relics or organic
remains, but found these curiosities had met with the fate of all things
in America, destruction by fire. The owner of the museum had been
nineteen years collecting it, and it contained, among other things,
bones of mastodon, and mummies, taken from a cave in Kentucky. The last,
we were informed by the wife of the proprietor, were in a sitting
posture, wrapped in mantles, one having red hair, the other black. She
was now doing her best to collect another museum. Their house is a very
nice one, having three tiers of rooms, and is rented to them for one
thousand dollars. ‘How did the fire originate?’ I asked of the lady of
the museum. ‘Why, ma’am,’ said she, ‘you must know the cellar of this
house, unbeknown to me, was let out to a _yellow barber_, who had some
powder for sale which blew up to our garret one day, and set it on fire.
I heard the explosion, but thought it one of the steamboats at the
wharf----’ ‘Pardon me madam,’ I said, ‘but pray how many times a week
do your steamboats blow up?’ ‘Why, I can’t exactly tell----’ ‘Oh, well;
go on with your story.’ ‘That day I came into this room before it was
burnt, and says, George, says I, to the man who is now playing on the
organ just as he was then, George, what is that which smells so much
like burnt paint? Why, missus, says he, it is the back of this yere
bench which was almost a coal afore I put it out. Why, George, says I,
how did that happen? Why, the yaller barber’s stove-pipe was so hot,
says he, it sot it afire. I ran to the bench and found it had been, sure
enough, burnt, and the wall felt quite hot. George, what is that
crackling noise, says I. Why it’s the yaller barber’s stove-pipe what’s
a cooling, says he. But I smelt smoke, and I said to George, George, do
run up _stars_ and see if there aint any fire anyhow. He went, but soon
came thumping down again, making as much noise as if he had been a great
mastydone. George, says I, what’s the matter? Matter! why, gorry, massa
missus! the roof’s burnt and fell on the garret floor, and the garret
floor’s afire and fell on the third story floor---- Pshaw, George,
you’re poking fun at me; but just then up runs my husband as wild as a
prairie wolf. Wife! Good God! the roof is all afire! he cried and ran up
stairs; when, just as he reached the second flight, the third floor fell
down upon him, and he was enveloped in flames. He was dug out, and you
may be sure he was a show; burnt to a mummy; his hat looking a bit of
coke; his dress hanging in scorched tatters, and blind with smoke, he
staggered about like a drunken nigger. He was six weeks before he
recovered from that burning.’ ‘Indeed; this fire has cost you much
suffering.’ ‘I have not told you all. There is a young girl, a distant
relation living with me, to whom I am much attached; she was up stairs,
heard a noise, saw the fire, and went to run down stairs, when behold
the stairs was away--burnt and fell down. She ran about like a wild
Injun, trying to escape, but could not, and at last sank down at the
place where the stairs had been, and expected to die. Just at that
moment, as if sent by Providence, some men from a flat boat ran up to
help us. ‘Why, mother, you’re in a bad fix anyhow,’ said one; ‘what is
your greatest treasure here, and we will try to save that first.’ My
greatest treasure, I said, is a young girl, whom I dearly love, who is
up stairs; but I am afraid you cannot save her. He ran along and looked
up, when, just then, in a fit of despair, she flung herself down,
thinking she might as well die so, as she must die up stairs anyhow, and
he being just under caught her. She was very much bruised, and her head
is still much affected with heat and wounds.’ I truly sympathized with
the unfortunate dillitante, as the loss of a museum which one has been
collecting twenty years is a serious evil. I think it behooves the
citizens of Cincinnati to encourage her endeavors to gather a new
collection, by patronizing her museum. From the upper balcony is a very
beautiful view of the opposite shores of Kentucky. The two towns of
Covington and Newport line the bank with numerous buildings, some of
them very pretty; while behind them arise a range of picturesque hills,
covered with luxuriant herbage. These two towns are separated by the
river Licking, whose bright waters, after flowing for two hundred miles
through the fair plains of Kentucky, enter the Ohio opposite Cincinnati.
Beneath us we looked down upon the wharf, which was a scene of mixed
gaiety and business. A row of steamboats lay along the shore, from and
to which flowed a constant current of men and goods. From some of the
largest, the music of the band which they always carry sounded merrily,
while broad, bright flags floated out upon the summer breeze.
Re-entering our carriage, we drove down to Fulton, a town about two
miles from Cincinnati, but which may be called a part of it, as the road
is one long street leading to it, containing iron founderies, water
works, lumber yards, &c. Omnibuses are constantly passing and re-passing
along this street. We observed here several large steamboats upon the
stocks, some of which were copper bottomed, as a guard against snags.
Fulton looks pretty at a distance, seated at the foot of a round, soft
green hill. After tea, we passed through the city, to the river, along
whose bank, is a very pretty road. This is the fashionable evening
drive, and we passed several carriages, containing ladies and children,
and young persons on horseback, enjoying the bland evening air.
Although the heat had been excessive during the day; it was now
perfectly cool, which is usually the case here. Kentucky looked very
lovely, as the setting sun tinged its hill tops, and threw a rosy haze
over its groves, and fields and pretty cottages. The broad river looked
placid and lustrous, as if rejoicing in the pretty reflections which lay
upon its surface. A small fort opposite, we were told was erected in
honor of the hero of Tippicanoe, Gen. Harrison, who is much beloved
here, and whom they expect to be the next President of the United
States.
* * * * *
_July 20th._--I am happy to inform you the state of religion and morals
in this place, are such as would please every lover of Jesus and of good
order. One fact speaks for itself, there are here thirty churches. There
are also twelve public schools, and between two and three thousand
scholars, who are there educated. What a blessed thing is it to see a
city, instead of lavishing its surplus wealth upon theatres and places
of dissipation, erecting schools, and such respectable, nay, elegant
houses of public worship as we see in Cincinnati. The consequences are
seen in the circumstances and behaviour of the people. Here is no haunt
of vice, no Faubourg St. Antoine, no _five points_, the people keep the
Sabbath, and are respectable and happy. Sunday morning we attended
service at Christ Church, where we heard the beautiful episcopal service
read by their pastor, the Rev. Mr. Brooks, who afterwards gave us a very
good discourse. This is a very handsome church, in the gothic form,
abounding in spires and abutments, it is a grey brick edged with stone.
The interior is very elegant. The pews are all lined and cushioned with
blue, while the pulpit, and chancel, and reading desk, are a dazzling
mass of bronze, and crimson, and gold; they are of bronze and gilt
Gothic open work, lined with crimson velvet. Some antique chairs, and
benches of oak, carved, lined and cushioned with velvet, stand here,
while the whole is surrounded with a railing, and kneeling cushion of
the same material and lining. The lamps and chandaliers are profuse and
rich, and the organ beautifully built of bronze. In the same street is
another episcopal church called St. Pauls, which is in the Grecian
style, with a pediment in front, supported by columns. There are six
presbyterian churches here, some of which we visited, and which are
handsome and well attended.
In the evening we went to the church of the Rev. Mr. Lynde, a baptist
clergyman, whose church is in a very flourishing condition, he having
baptised five hundred new members last winter. This chapel is in Ninth
street, and is a large brick building having a tall white spire. Every
thing within is plain but neat. The seats are in the sofa style, edged
with mahogany, lined and cushioned with horse hair, and having, several
of them, the owner’s name in brass plates upon the door, as in some of
our churches. The lamps and chandaliers, as in the episcopal church, are
more in number and richer than I have ever seen in our best churches. We
were quite pleased with Mr. L. His manner had a dignity and firmness, as
if thoroughly convinced of the truths he advanced; and his address to
his people came with the power of one who spoke with authority. How
pleasant it is to find this region, which so lately resounded with
savage merriment or war cries, now echoing the truth as it is in Jesus.
* * * * *
_July 21st._--We arose early, and walked out to see the markets. There
are three, well built. The one on Broadway was filled with a profusion
of meats, fruits and vegetables, which last were uncommonly fine. The
streets around the market, were blocked up with wagons loaded with
country produce. During our rambles through the streets I was struck by
the sight of a building, the oddest I ever beheld. It was a huge ugly
thing, being a strange mixture of styles, and an attempt at Gothic,
Turkish, and Moorish. This was Mrs. Trollop’s erection, built for a
house of pleasure, and rooms were constructed for balls, refreshment,
and dressing rooms, while below were to be shops. These balls were to be
in the style of Almacks, quite exclusive. It is now a ‘Mechanic
Institute,’ and when not using their rooms for the exhibitions, let them
out to lecturers, exhibition of pictures, or a fair. The front is of
brick adorned with Gothic arches, and the roof surmounted with Gothic
ornaments. A square tower rises from the back of the building having a
row of brick pillars in front, this contains a room having windows all
around; on the top of this tower is another, a round one, having as I
said, a sort of moorish top. We saw the time approach for leaving the
‘Queen City,’ with regret. We left it in the steamboat Agnes, a new and
pretty boat, but small, ‘calculated to run any where it was moist,’ as
the river is too low for the larger boats to ascend to Wheeling. The
river’s greatest rise here is sixty-three feet, and it then runs with a
current of six miles an hour. When out in the river we looked sadly
back at Cincinnati, which appears Queen like indeed, while majestically
reposing upon her throne of stately hills, with the glorious river at
her feet. Cincinnati is built upon two plains which rise in gentle
slopes from the river. Fifty years ago, fort Washington stood here, and
now there is a large city of forty-five thousand inhabitants, containing
churches, lyceums, colleges, and doing a business of six million
dollars. There are a great many manufactories, and forges, and the steel
and iron business is carried on to a considerable amount, ‘from
ponderous beam of steam engine, cylenders and steam machinery, to
household articles.’ Its doings in the pork line you have heard of,
several of the largest ware-houses were pointed out to us as ‘pork
ware-houses.’ The Miami canal comes into the Ohio at Cincinnati, thus
bringing to it the produce from lake Erie. The little Miami railroad is
also to terminate here. A bend in the river, and the ‘Queen of the West’
is lost to our eyes. The river scenery is very beautiful to day, lined
with thriving farms, dotted with pretty villas and towns, having a back
ground of those peculiar green hills which occur upon this river called
the Ohio hills. Among the towns we passed were New Richmond, twenty-one
miles from Cincinnati, Moscow, Mechanicsville, Augusta &c. &c. Maysville
is quite a large town in Kentucky which looked very gay as the sun,
setting over the shadowy hills lighted up its scarlet brick houses and
gave a brighter tint to the cotton wood groves with which they were
surrounded.
* * * * *
_July 21st._--When we left our state-room we found ourselves near
Portsmouth, the largest town we had seen since leaving Cincinnati. It is
seated upon a platform elevated above the river at the foot of a group
of pretty ‘Ohio hills.’ Every one looked very busy here, the shops
displayed a goodly show of merchandise, two large hotels seemed full of
people, drays were travelling about, water carts were being filled in
the river, and little boys and girls were hastening down to come on
board and sell their cakes and fruit. I did not go on shore, as we were
to stay only a short time, but amused myself gazing about, and eating
black and whortleberries which the little buckeye girls sold for ‘a fip
a quart.’ This town is the southern termination of the Ohio canal whose
northern outlet we had passed at Cleaveland upon lake Erie. The Scioto
river also enters the Ohio here. It is a pretty stream 175 miles long.
In the country through which it flows is much iron; and forges and
founderies are established in many places around Portsmouth, which is a
market for their produce. The hills opposite this place are of a grander
character than any we had seen upon the Ohio, and now, with the lights
and shades of early summer morning upon them, formed a charming picture
for the inhabitants of Portsmouth. I remarked several pretty dwellings
surrounded by shrubbery, which showed there were many here who were
‘well to do in the world.’ What delightful residences must these Ohio
towns be, for persons of small fortune, or to tradesmen. All the
comforts of life can be obtained with little expense, while good air,
and good laws, shed health and peace around. Our passengers and freight
exchanged for others, we turned our course from the shore, and followed
the bends of La Belle riviere, (worthy of its name) as it wound through
a well settled country, its shadowy hills now appearing more frequently,
giving a more varied character to the scenery. The water grows purer as
we ascend, and shallower, so that we can at times distinguish the sand
and stones at the bottom. The Buckeye tree is seen in large groves, or
pretty groups or copses, giving a very cultivated air to the shores, as
we had been used to see it, ornamenting our streets, under the ugly name
horse-chesnut. But although much alike in external appearance our tree
is a transplanted one, originally from Asia, the Æsculus Hippocastinum,
while this tree is a native of Ohio, designated by the botanist as the
Æsculus Ohioensis. There are here seven species of this tree, which from
their deep green glossy leaves, and pretty flowers are a great ornament
to the groves of Ohio. It is an useful tree, and from the softness of
its wood is easy to cut. In the early days of Ohio, when the settlers
were in want of many articles of household furniture, they resorted to
the buckeye. After building their log cabins of its branches, they
formed, according to Dr. Drake, cradles, tables, bowls, platters,
spoons, and troughs for gathering maple sap. The covering of the nut can
be used as soap, while starch and medicine are also procured from it.
The nut being brown, with a round white spot upon it, is called buckeye;
and in consequence of their frequent use, and constant praises of this
tree, the people of Ohio received from their neighbors the soubriquet of
Buckeyes. The western people are fond of these nicknames. I told you the
Illinoisians were called Suckers, the Missourians are Pukes; the
Kentuckians, Corncrackers; Virginians, Tuckahoes; Indianians, Hoosiers;
Michiganians, Wolverines, &c.
While sailing, or rather to use the customary phrase here, riding along
these western rivers, one is struck with the destruction of trees. What
magnificent forests we passed to-day, where the huge and towering
sycamore, the dark green buckeye, the lighter cotton wood, the tall and
graceful shaft of the sugar maple, the white elm, with its beautifully
arranged branches and purple flowers, the silvery white maple, the oak,
the beech, woven together by missletoe and other creepers, on the Ohio
shore; and on the Kentucky bank, the blue ash, the coffee tree, stately
tulip, yellow locust, dark leaved hackberry, basswood, and hundreds of
others, make a mass of glorious forest scenery, such as I am sure earth
cannot surpass. But the great rise and fall, and changes of this river,
and its shores, destroy hundreds of these noble creations in a year.
Countless numbers we saw along the banks, with all their roots exposed,
holding but by one slight one, which any blast of wind might loosen,
when it falls and is washed away. The shores were strewed with them in
all stages; many struck down in youth, with their young foliage about
them; others in the sere and yellow leaf, while others again stripped of
leaf and bark, are piled in great ‘wreck heaps,’ where the current has
hurled them, or floating down the stream, in time to become a snag and
lie in wait to impale some unconscious vessel. While looking upon them
in their innocence and beauty, I could not but pity their vampire fate,
so soon to be transformed into malicious snags, to destroy the passing
voyager. The quantity of yellow clay marl which occurs along the
shores, contributes to their destruction, as it easily crumbles away.
This also gives the peculiar rounded form to the Ohio hills, as the marl
is washed down, giving the hills a smooth round shape.
At Sandy river, a stream which runs one hundred and sixty miles through
Virginia, we bade adieu to old Kentuck. The rich and fertile plains of
Kentucky were the favorite hunting grounds of the Aborigines of the
surrounding regions, as there the buffalo, elk, deer, &c. roved in large
herds. Extremely unwilling to surrender it to the white intruders, the
Indians fought long and bravely for it, and so many severe battles took
place there, that Kentucky acquired among the Indians the name of ‘the
dark and bloody ground.’ The inhabitants have long been celebrated for
their valor. Some of the scenery of Kentucky is the most beautiful in
the States, and some of the land the most fertile. It is four hundred
miles long, and contains twenty-six million acres. The wonderful caverns
which occur in the limestone formations, you have heard of. Population,
between six and seven hundred thousand. Virginia, the land of the
cavaliers, and of Pocahontas, looked very inviting, as we sailed past
it; her pretty hills lending beauty to every view. At Guyandot, we
landed a party to visit the Sulphur Springs in Virginia, which are now
quite fashionable. Our springs at Saratoga and Ballston, lose many
southern and western visitors, since these, and so many others have been
discovered in those regions.
* * * * *
_July 22nd._--Off Gallipolis, a town settled by French people, who came
here to avoid the excesses of the revolution. These persons, brought up
in a delicate, luxurious manner, were obliged to plunge at once into
all the hardships of a woodland life, and suffered much ere their houses
were erected, and all things in order. Upon the opposite shore the
Kenawha enters the Ohio, after coming from the iron mountain in North
Carolina, through Kentucky three hundred miles. It has dug for itself a
deep bed in the limestone rocks, and upon its banks is the most rugged
and picturesque scenery in Kentucky. Coal, and salt springs abound along
its shores. The rapids of the Ohio came in sight after this, and looked
cool and pretty, as the water curled and foamed over the ledges of rocks
and pebbles. The water was very clear and we seemed sailing upon the
bottom; but being so unusually low, our boat, as small as she was,
grounded several times. In these extremities recourse was had to
_cordelling_. A rope was carried ahead by a small boat, and fastened to
a rock, or anchored; and a windlass brought the boat up to the rock.
After passing the rapids, the river becomes shallower and more narrow;
but as our boat only drew twenty inches, we succeeded in going on, while
some larger ones which had accompanied us thus far, were left in the
river, or at some village. The islands are more frequent, and some of
them very lovely, mazes of beautiful forest trees woven together in
natural bowers by pea vines in blossom, scarlet creeper, and many other
pretty and new plants. The island of the unfortunate Blennarhasset, is
the largest and loveliest, containing seven hundred acres. Through the
circle of forest trees which border it, we caught glimpses of the centre
which was level, and once highly cultivated. Here he created a paradise
of lawns and groves, and gardens, surrounding a dwelling, the residence
of his charming family, to which were attached green and hot-houses,
libraries and music rooms. Ambition has rendered this fair spot a
desert; he never rose to the empire which he and his tempter, Burr, had
hoped to create. After all, the saddest part of Herman Blennarhasset’s
fate is, that every tourist who passes the island, must mention his name
and utter an effecting sentimentality about ambition; it seems like
dragging him out of his resting place, to hear our taunts; if you travel
this way, let me beg of you--
“Breathe not his name, let it sleep in the dust,
Where cold and unhonored his ashes are laid.”
Parkersburgh at the mouth of the little Kenawha, is a quaint old
fashioned town in Virginia; embosomed in hills. Here we intended to land
and take the mail stage to Winchester, but it had just departed, and
rather than remain there two days, until another stage, we concluded to
go on in the Agnes to Wheeling. Accordingly we and our trunks were again
on board, and we resumed our rambles. At sunset we stopped, at the town
of Marietta, the first spot settled in Ohio. Its name was very prettily
given in honor of the fair and unfortunate Maria Antoinette of France;
in gratitude for the support she gave our cause. The town was laid out
in 1788. The streets are wide, and adorned with forest trees, and parks.
The houses are solidly built, having each its ornamented court and
garden. The exchange, court-house, college, churches, and other public
buildings are handsome structures. It is principally settled by New
Englanders, whose love of good order and morality has not been left
behind, for the motto upon the town seal pledges their ‘support of
religion and learning.’ Marietta is upon the Muskingum, which is between
two and three hundred yards wide, and navigable for one hundred miles
with large boats. It is a remarkably pure, healthy, bright stream,
‘rolling its limpid waves over a sandy and pebbly bottom, variegated in
summer months with the open valves of thousands of red and white shells
scattered among the sand, rivalling in beauty the richest tessellated
pavement of the Romans.’ Upon its banks stands Zanesville, a large and
handsome town, and in the county through which this river and its
branches flow, are quantities of iron, coal, salt, limestone, and many
other useful productions. There are also ancient mounds and
fortifications upon its shores. Marietta appears beautifully as we
approach, seated upon an elevated bank, at the foot of a range of the
picturesque Ohio hills. These are about three hundred feet high, formed
of ‘argillacious earth, based upon sandstone.’ The scenery this
afternoon is of a grander cast than any we had yet seen upon the Ohio.
The hills which have generally risen at some distance from the shore,
now come close down to the water, so that, as we ride along we can look
far up into their recesses. They have the same gracefully regular
appearance, except that now and then a ledge of sandstone or limestone,
breaks the smooth green side.
I have said very little about the cooking and victuals upon these
western boats. The latter are very good, and finer beef, fish, bread,
etc., cannot be found any where; the most fastidious palate might here
be satisfied were it not for one thing--our western brethren are so fond
of fat. Almost every dish of animal food is swiming in a greasy liquor.
Doubtless I should be used to it in time and like it as well as our
young southern friend who used to expatiate upon the delights of hominy
and ‘possum fat.’ However, I cannot expect persons, wherever I may
choose to travel, to shape their table to please me, so I make a point
of taking things as quietly as if I had ordered every thing. I generally
succeeded, by declining gravey, to obtain a piece tolerably dry, and
this, with their excellent vegetables, Indian bread, good butter, and
nice stewed dried peaches, the unfailing accompaniment to every meal, to
secure a pleasant and healthful repast. Tea and coffee we have met, of
all shades and varieties, but none so unique as the prairie coffee, of
which I wrote you. The accommodations are comfortable, and in the ladies
apartment, towels, basins, and water enough, and leave to use your own
brushes. The gentlemen were confined to tin washbowls upon deck, but if
any one chose to ask, he might always have a basin and towel in his
cabin. We found nothing to complain of as serious annoyances, but
received every attention and politeness from captains and servants.