Chapter Eight Kitzuki: The Most Ancient Shrine of Japan

SHINKOKU is the sacred name of Japan--Shinkoku, 'The Country of the

Gods'; and of all Shinkoku the most holy ground is the land of Izumo.

Hither from the blue Plain of High Heaven first came to dwell awhile

the Earth-makers, Izanagi and Izanami, the parents of gods and of men;

somewhere upon the border of this land was Izanami buried; and out of

this land into the black realm of the dead did Izanagi follow after her,

and seek in vain to bring her back again. And the tale of his descent

into that strange nether world, and of what there befell him, is it not

written in the Kojiki? [1] And of all legends primeval concerning the

Underworld this story is one of the weirdest--more weird than even the

Assyrian legend of the Descent of Ishtar.

Even as Izumo is especially the province of the gods, and the place of

the childhood of the race by whom Izanagi and Izanami are yet worshiped,

so is Kitzuki of Izumo especially the city of the gods, and its

immemorial temple the earliest home of the ancient faith, the great

religion of Shinto.

Now to visit Kitzuki has been my most earnest ambition since I learned

the legends of the Kojiki concerning it; and this ambition has been

stimulated by the discovery that very few Europeans have visited

Kitzuki, and that none have been admitted into the great temple itself.

Some, indeed, were not allowed even to approach the temple court. But

I trust that I shall be somewhat more fortunate; for I have a letter of

introduction from my dear friend Nishida Sentaro, who is also a personal

friend of the high pontiff of Kitzuki. I am thus assured that even

should I not be permitted to enter the temple--a privilege accorded to

but few among the Japanese themselves--I shall at least have the honour

of an interview with the Guji, or Spiritual Governor of Kitzuki, Senke

Takanori, whose princely family trace back their descent to the Goddess

of the Sun. [2]

Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan: First Series · 第 96 / 222 题