Sec. 11

'Amma-kamishimo-go-hyakmon!'

A woman's voice ringing through the night, chanting in a tone of

singular sweetness words of which each syllable comes through my open

window like a wavelet of flute-sound. My Japanese servant, who speaks a

little English, has told me what they mean, those words:

'Amma-kamishimo-go-hyakmon!'

And always between these long, sweet calls I hear a plaintive whistle,

one long note first, then two short ones in another key. It is the

whistle of the amma, the poor blind woman who earns her living by

shampooing the sick or the weary, and whose whistle warns pedestrians

and drivers of vehicles to take heed for her sake, as she cannot see.

And she sings also that the weary and the sick may call her in.

'Amma-kamishimo-go-hyakmon!'

The saddest melody, but the sweetest voice. Her cry signifies that for

the sum of 'five hundred mon' she will come and rub your weary body

'above and below,' and make the weariness or the pain go away. Five

hundred mon are the equivalent of five sen (Japanese cents); there are

ten rin to a sen, and ten mon to one rin. The strange sweetness of the

voice is haunting,--makes me even wish to have some pains, that I might

pay five hundred mon to have them driven away.

I lie down to sleep, and I dream. I see Chinese texts--multitudinous,

weird, mysterious--fleeing by me, all in one direction; ideographs white

and dark, upon signboards, upon paper screens, upon backs of sandalled

men. They seem to live, these ideographs, with conscious life; they are

moving their parts, moving with a movement as of insects, monstrously,

like phasmidae. I am rolling always through low, narrow, luminous

streets in a phantom jinricksha, whose wheels make no sound. And always,

always, I see the huge white mushroom-shaped hat of Cha dancing up and

down before me as he runs.

Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan: First Series · 第 17 / 222 题