Al-Madinah was ever well inclined to Mohammed. In[FN#20]

[p.352]the early part of his career, the emissaries of a tribe called

the Benu Abd al-Ashhal came from that town to Meccah, in order to make

a treaty with the Kuraysh, and the Apostle seized the opportunity of

preaching Al-Islam to them. His words were seconded by Ayyas bin Ma'az,

a youth of the tribe, and opposed by the chiefs of the embassy; who,

however, returned home without pledging themselves to either

party.[FN#21] Shortly afterwards a body of the Aus and the Khazraj came

to the pilgrimage of Meccah: when Mohammed began preaching to them,

they recognised the person so long expected by the Jews, and swore to

him an oath which is called in Moslem history the "First Fealty of the

Steep.[FN#22]"

After the six individuals who had thus pledged themselves returned to

their native city, the event being duly bruited abroad caused such an

effect that, when the next pilgrimage season came, twelve, or according

to others forty persons, led by As'ad bin Zara[r]ah, accompanied the

original converts, and in the same place swore the "Second Fealty of

the Steep." The Prophet dismissed them in company with one Musab bin

Umayr, a Meccan, charged to teach them the Koran and their religious

duties, which in those times consisted only of prayer and the

Profession of Unity. They arrived at Al-Madinah on a Friday, and this

was the first day on which the city witnessed the public devotions of

the Moslems.

After some persecutions, Musab had the fortune to convert a cousin of

As'ad bin Zararah, a chief of the Aus, Sa'ad bin Ma'az, whose

opposition had been of the fiercest. He persuaded his tribe, the Benu

Abd al-Ashhal, to break

[p.353]their idols and openly to profess Al-Islam. The next season,

Musab having made many converts, some say seventy, others three

hundred, marched from Al-Madinah to Meccah for their pilgrimage; and

there induced his followers to meet the Prophet at midnight upon the

Steep near Muna. Mohammed preached to them their duties towards Allah

and himself, especially insisting upon the necessity of warring down

infidelity. They pleaded ancient treaties with the Jews of Al-Madinah,

and showed apprehension lest the Apostle, after bringing them into

disgrace with their fellows, should desert them and return to the faith

of his kinsmen, the Kuraysh. Mohammed, smiling, comforted them with the

assurance that he was with them, body and soul, for ever. Upon this

they asked him what would be their reward if slain. He replied,

"Gardens 'neath which the streams flow,"-that is to say, Paradise.

Then, in spite of the advice of Al-Abbas, Mohammed's uncle, who was

loud in his denunciations, they bade the Preacher stretch out his hand,

and upon it swore the oath known as the "Great Fealty of the Steep."

After comforting them with an Ayat, or Koranic verse, which promised

heaven, the Apostle divided his followers into twelve bodies; and

placing a chief at the head of each,[FN#23] dismissed them to their

homes. He rejected the offer made by one of the party-namely, to slay

all the idolaters present at the pilgrimage-saying that Allah had

favoured him with no such order. For the same reason he refused their

invitation to visit Al-Madinah, which was the principal object of their

mission; and he then took an affectionate leave of them.

[p.354]Two months and a half after the events above detailed, Mohammed

received the inspired tidings that Al-Madinah of the Hijaz was his

predestined asylum. In anticipation of the order, for as yet the time

had not been revealed, he sent forward his friends, among whom were

Omar, Talhah, and Hamzah, retaining with him Abu Bakr[FN#24] and Ali.

The particulars of the Flight, that eventful accident to Al-Islam, are

too well known to require mention here; besides which they belong

rather to the category of general than of Madinite history.

Mohammed was escorted into Al-Madinah by one Buraydat al-Aslami and

eighty men of the same tribe, who had been offered by the Kuraysh a

hundred camels for the capture of the fugitives. But Buraydat, after

listening to their terms, accidentally entered into conversation with

Mohammed; and no sooner did he hear the name of his interlocutor, than

he professed the faith of Al-Islam. He then prepared for the Apostle a

standard by attaching his turband to a spear, and anxiously inquired

what house was to be honoured by the presence of Allah's chosen

servant. "Whichever," replied Mohammed, "this she-camel[FN#25] is

ordered to show me." At the last

[p.355]halting-place, he accidentally met some of his disciples

returning from a trading voyage to Syria; they dressed him and his

companion Abu Bakr in white clothing which, it is said, caused the

people of Kuba to pay a mistaken reverence to the latter. The Moslems

of Al-Madinah were in the habit of repairing every morning to the

heights near the city, looking out for the Apostle; and, when the sun

waxed hot, they returned home. One day, about noon, a Jew, who

discovered the retinue from afar, suddenly warned the nearest party of

Ansar, or Auxiliaries of Al-Madinah, that the fugitive was come. They

snatched up their arms and hurried from their houses to meet him.

Mohammed's she-camel advanced to the centre of the then flourishing

town of Kuba. There she suddenly knelt upon a place which is now

consecrated ground; at that time it was an open space, belonging, they

say, to Abu Ayyub the Ansari, who had a house there near the abodes of

the Benu Amr bin Auf. This event happened on the first day of the week,

the twelfth of the month Rabia al-Awwal[FN#26] (June 28, A.D. 622), in

the first year of the Flight: for which reason Monday, which also

witnessed the birth, the mission, and the death of the Prophet, is an

auspicious day to Al-Islam.

After halting two days in the house of Kulsum bin Hadmah at Kuba, and

there laying the foundation of the

[p.356]first Mosque upon the lines where his she-camel trod, the

Apostle was joined by Ali, who had remained at Meccah, for the purpose

of returning certain trusts and deposits committed to Mohammed's

charge. He waited three days longer; on Friday morning (the 16th Rabia

al-Awwal, A.H. 1,=2nd July, A.D. 622), about sunrise he mounted

Al-Kaswa, and, accompanied by a throng of armed Ansar on foot and on

horseback, he took the way to the city. At the hour of public

prayer,[FN#27] he halted in the Wady or valley near Kuba, upon the spot

where the Masjid al-Jum'ah now stands, performed his devotions, and

preached an eloquent sermon. He then remounted. Numbers pressed forward

to offer him hospitality; he blessed them, and bade them stand out of

the way, declaring that Al-Kaswa would halt of her own accord at the

predestined spot. He then advanced to where the Apostle's pulpit now

stands. There the she-camel knelt, and the rider exclaimed, as one

inspired, "This is our place, if Almighty Allah please!"

Descending from Al-Kaswa, he recited, "O Lord, cause me to alight a

good Alighting, and Thou art the Best of those who cause to alight!"

Presently the camel rose unaided, advanced a few steps, and then,

according to some, returning, sat down upon her former seat; according

to others, she knelt at the door of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, whose abode in

those days was the nearest to the halting-place. The descendant of the

Jewish High Priest in the time of the Tobbas, with the Apostle's

permission, took the baggage off the camel, and carried it into his

house. Then ensued great rejoicings. The Abyssinians came and played

with their spears. The

[p.357]maidens of the Benu Najjar tribe sang and beat their

kettle-drums. And all the wives of the Ansar celebrated with shrill

cries of joy the auspicious event; whilst the males, young and old,

freemen and slaves, shouted with effusion, "Allah's Messenger is come!

Allah's Messenger is here!"

Mohammed caused Abu Ayyub and his wife to remove into the upper story,

contenting himself with the humbler lower rooms. This was done for the

greater convenience of receiving visitors without troubling the family;

but the master of the house was thereby rendered uncomfortable in mind.

His various remarks about the Apostle's diet and domestic habits,

especially his avoiding leeks, onions, and garlic,[FN#28] are gravely

chronicled by Moslem authors.

After spending seven months, more or less, at the house of Abu Ayyub,

Mohammed, now surrounded by his wives and family, built, close to the

Mosque, huts for their reception. The ground was sold to him by Sahal

and Suhayl, two orphans of the Benu Najjar,[FN#29] a noble family of

the Khazraj. Some time afterwards one Harisat bin al-Nu'uman presented

to the Prophet all his houses in the vicinity of the temple. In those

days the habitations of the Arabs were made of a framework of Jarid or

palm sticks, covered over with a cloth of camel's hair, a curtain of

similar stuff forming the door. The more splendid had walls of unbaked

brick, and roofs of palm fronds plastered

[p.358]over with mud or clay. Of this description were the abodes of

Mohammed's family. Most of them were built on the North and East of the

Mosque, which had open ground on the Western side; and the doors looked

towards the place of prayer. In course of time, all, except Abu

Bakr[FN#30] and Ali, were ordered to close their doors, and even Omar

was refused the favour of having a window opening into the temple.

Presently the Jews of Al-Madinah, offended by the conduct of Abdullah

bin Salam, their most learned priest and a descendant from the

Patriarch Joseph, who had become a convert to the Moslem dispensation,

began to plot against Mohammed.[FN#31] They were headed by Hajj bin

Akhtah, and his brother Yasir bin Akhtah, and were joined by many of

the Aus and the Khazraj. The events that followed this combination of

the Munafikun, or Hypocrites, under their chief, Abdullah, belong to

the domain of Arabian history.[FN#32]

Mohammed spent the last ten years of his life at Al-Madinah. He died on

Monday, some say at nine A.M., others at noon, others a little after,

on the twelfth of Rabia al-Awwal in the eleventh year of the Hijrah.

When his family and companions debated where he should be buried, Ali

advised Al-Madinah, and Abu Bakr, Ayishah's chamber,

[p.359]quoting a saying of the deceased that prophets and martyrs are

always interred where they happen to die. The Apostle was placed, it is

said, under the bed where he had given up the ghost, by Ali and the two

sons of Abbas, who dug the grave. With the life of Mohammed the

interest of Al-Madinah ceases, or rather is concentrated in the history

of its temple. Since then the city has passed through the hands of the

Caliphs, the Sharifs of Meccah, the Sultans of Constantinople, the

Wahhabis, and the Egyptians. It has now reverted to the Sultan, whose

government is beginning to believe that, in these days when religious

prestige is of little value, the great Khan's title, "Servant of the

Holy Shrines," is purchased at too high a price. As has before been

observed, the Turks now struggle for existence in Al-Hijaz with a

soldier ever in arrears, and officers unequal to the task of managing

an unruly people. The pensions are but partly paid,[FN#33] and they are

not likely to increase with years. It is probably a mere consideration

of interest that prevents the people rising en masse,

[p.360]and re-asserting the liberties of their country. And I have

heard from authentic sources that the Wahhabis look forward to the day

when a fresh crusade will enable them to purge the land of its

abominations in the shape of silver and gold.

The Masjid al-Nabi, or Prophet's Mosque, is the second in Al-Islam in

point of seniority, and the second, or, according to others, the first

in dignity, ranking with the Ka'abah itself. It is erected around the

spot where the she-camel, Al-Kaswa, knelt down by the order of Heaven.

At that time the land was a palm grove and a Mirbad, or place where

dates are dried. Mohammed, ordered to erect a place of worship there,

sent for the youths to whom it belonged, and certain Ansar, or

Auxiliaries, their guardians; the ground was offered to him in free

gift, but he insisted upon purchasing it, paying more than its value.

Having caused the soil to be levelled and the trees to be felled, he

laid the foundation of the first Mosque.

In those times of primitive simplicity its walls were made of rough

stone and unbaked bricks: trunks of date-trees supported a palm-stick

roof, concerning which the Archangel Gabriel delivered an order that it

should not be higher than seven cubits, the elevation of Moses's

temple. All ornament was strictly forbidden. The Ansar, or men of

Al-Madinah, and the Muhajirin, or Fugitives from Meccah, carried the

building materials in their arms from the cemetery Al-Bakia, near the

well of Ayyub, north of the spot where Ibrahim's Mosque now stands, and

the Apostle was to be seen aiding them in their labours, and reciting

for their encouragement,

"O Allah! there is no good but the good of futurity,

Then have mercy upon my Ansar and Muhajirin!"

The length of this Mosque was fifty-four cubits from North to South,

and sixty-three in breadth, and it was hemmed in by houses on all sides

save the Western. Till the seventeenth

[p.361]month of the new aera the congregation faced towards the

Northern wall. After that time a fresh revelation turned them in the

direction of Meccah, Southwards: on which occasion the Archangel

Gabriel descended and miraculously opened through the hills and wilds a

view of the Ka'abah, that there might be no difficulty in ascertaining

its true position.

After the capture of Khaybar in A.H. 7, the Prophet and his first three

successors restored the Mosque, but Moslem historians do not consider

this a second foundation. Mohammed laid the first brick, and Abu

Hurayrah declares that he saw him carry heaps of building materials

piled up to his breast. The Caliphs, each in the turn of his

succession, placed a brick close to that laid by the Prophet, and aided

him in raising the walls. Al-Tabrani relates that one of the Ansar had

a house adjacent which Mohammed wished to make part of the place of

prayer; the proprietor was promised in exchange for it a home in

Paradise, which he gently rejected, pleading poverty. His excuse was

admitted, and Osman, after purchasing the place for ten thousand

dirhams, gave it to the Apostle on the long credit originally offered.

This Mosque was a square of a hundred cubits. Like the former building,

it had three doors: one on the South side, where the Mihrab al-Nabawi,

or the "Prophet's Niche," now is; another in the place of the present

Bab al-Rahmah; and the third at the Bab Osman, now called the Gate of

Gabriel. Instead of a Mihrab or prayer-niche,[FN#34] a large block of

stone directed the congregation; at first it was placed against the

Northern wall

[p.362]of the Mosque, and it was removed to the Southern when Meccah

became the Kiblah.

In the beginning the Prophet, whilst preaching the Khutbah or Friday

sermon, leaned when fatigued against a post.[FN#35] The Mambar,[FN#36]

or pulpit, was the invention of a Madinah man, of the Benu Najjar. It

was a wooden frame, two cubits long by one broad, with three steps,

each one span high; on the topmost of these the Prophet sat when he

required rest. The pulpit assumed its present form about A.H. 90,

during the artistic reign of Al-Walid.

In this Mosque Mohammed spent the greater part of the day[FN#37] with

his companions, conversing, instructing, and

[p.363]comforting the poor. Hard by were the abodes of his wives, his

family, and his principal friends. Here he prayed, at the call of the

Azan, or devotion-cry, from the roof. Here he received worldly envoys

and embassies, and the heavenly messages conveyed by the Archangel

Gabriel. And within a few yards of the hallowed spot, he died, and

found a grave.

The theatre of events so important to Al-Islam could not be

allowed-specially as no divine decree forbade the change-to remain in

its pristine lowliness. The first Caliph contented himself with merely

restoring some of the palm pillars, which had fallen to the ground:

Omar, the second successor, surrounded the Hujrah, or Ayishah's

chamber, in which the Prophet was buried, with a mud wall; and in A.H.

17, he enlarged the Mosque to 140 cubits by 120, taking in ground on

all sides except the Eastern, where stood the abodes of the "Mothers of

the Moslems.[FN#38]" Outside the Northern wall he erected a Suffah,

called Al-Batha-a raised bench of wood, earth, or stone, upon which the

people might recreate themselves with conversation and quoting poetry,

for the Mosque was now becoming [a] place of peculiar reverence to

men.[FN#39]

The second Masjid was erected A.H. 29, by the third Caliph, Osman, who,

regardless of the clamours of the people, overthrew the old walls and

extended the building

[p.364]greatly towards the North, and a little towards the West; but he

did not remove the Eastern limit on account of the private houses. He

made the roof of Indian teak,[FN#40] and the walls of hewn and carved

stone. These innovations caused some excitement, which he allayed by

quoting a tradition of the Prophet, with one of which he appears

perpetually to have been prepared. The saying in question was,

according to some, "Were this my Mosque extended to Safa"-a hill in

Meccah-"it verily would still be my Mosque"; according to others, "Were

the Prophet's Mosque extended to Zu'l Halifah[FN#41] it would still be

his." But Osman's skill in the quotation of tradition did not prevent

the new building being in part a cause of his death. It was finished on

the first Muharram, A.H. 30.

At length, Al-Islam, grown splendid and powerful, determined to surpass

other nations in the magnificence of its public buildings.[FN#42] In

A.H. 88, Al-Walid[FN#43] the First, twelfth Caliph of the Benu Ummayah

race, after building, or rather restoring, the noble "Jami' al-Ammawi"

(cathedral of the Ommiades) at Damascus, determined to

[p.365]display his liberality at Al-Madinah. The governor of the place,

Umar bin Abd Al-Aziz, was directed to buy for seven thousand Dinars

(ducats) all the hovels of raw brick that hedged in the Eastern side of

the old Mosque. They were inhabited by descendants of the Prophet and

of the early Caliphs, and in more than one case, the ejection of the

holy tenantry was effected with considerable difficulty. Some of the

women-ever the most obstinate on such occasions-refused to take money,

and Omar was forced to the objectionable measure of turning them out of

doors with exposed faces[FN#45] in full day. The Greek Emperor, applied

to by the magnificent Caliph, sent immense presents, silver lamp

chains, valuable curiosities,[FN#46] forty loads of small cut stones

for pietra-dura, and a sum of eighty thousand Dinars, or, as others

say, forty thousand Miskals of gold. He also despatched forty Coptic

and forty Greek artists to carve the marble pillars and the casings of

the walls, and to superintend the gilding and the mosaic work. One of

these Christians was beheaded for sculpturing a hog on the Kiblah wall;

and another, in an attempt to defile the roof, fell to the ground, and

his brains were dashed out. The remainder Islamized, but this did not

prevent the older Arabs murmuring that their Mosque had been turned

into a Kanisah, a Christian idol-house.

The Hujrah, or chamber, where, by Mohammed's permission, Azrail, the

Angel of Death, separated his

[p.366]soul from his body, whilst his head was lying in the lap of

Ayishah, his favourite wife, was now for the first time taken into the

Mosque. The raw-brick enceinte[FN#46] which surrounded the three graves

was exchanged for one of carved stone, enclosed by an outer precinct

with a narrow passage between.[FN#47] These double walls were either

without a door, or had only a small blocked-up wicket on the Northern

side, and from that day (A.H. 90), no one, says Al-Samanhudi, has been

able to approach the sepulchre.[FN#48] A minaret was erected at each

corner of the Mosque.[FN#49] The building was enlarged to 200 cubits by

167, and was finished in A.H. 91. When Al-Walid, the Caliph, visited it

in state, he inquired of his lieutenant why greater magnificence had

not been displayed in the erection; upon which Omar, the governor,

informed him,

[p.367]to his astonishment, that the walls alone had cost forty-five

thousand ducats.[FN#50]

The fourth Mosque was erected in A.H. 191, by Al-Mahdi, third prince of

the Benu Abbas or Baghdad Caliphs-celebrated in history only for

spending enormous sums upon a pilgrimage. He enlarged the building by

adding ten handsome pillars of carved marble, with gilt capitals, on

the Northern side. In A.H. 202, Al-Ma'amun made further additions to

this Mosque. It was from Al-Mahdi's Masjid that Al-Hakim bi'Amri 'llah,

the third Fatimite Caliph of Egypt, and the deity of the Druze sect,

determined to steal the bodies of the Prophet and his two companions.

About A.H. 412, he sent emissaries to Al-Madinah: the attempt, however,

failed, and the would-be violators of the tomb lost their lives. It is

generally supposed that Al-Hakim's object was to transfer the

Visitation to his own capital; but in one so manifestly insane it is

difficult to discover the spring of action. Two Christians, habited

like Maghrabi pilgrims, in A.H. 550, dug a mine from a neighbouring

house into the temple. They were discovered, beheaded, and burned to

ashes. In relating these events the Moslem historians mix up many

foolish preternaturalisms with credible matter. At last, to prevent a

recurrence of such sacrilegious attempts, Al-Malik al-Adil Nur al-Din

of the Baharite Mamluk Sultans, or, according to others, Sultan Nur

al-Din Shahid Mahmud bin Zangi, who, warned by a vision of the Apostle,

had started for Al-Madinah only in time to discover the two Christians,

surrounded the holy place with a deep trench filled with molten lead.

By this means Abu Bakr and Omar, who had run considerable risks of

their own, have ever since been enabled to occupy their last homes

undisturbed.

In A.H. 654, the fifth Mosque was erected in consequence of a fire,

which some authors attribute to a

[p.368]volcano that broke out close to the town in terrible

eruption[FN#51]; others, with more fanaticism and less probability, to

the schismatic Benu Husayn, then the guardians of the tomb. On this

occasion the Hujrah was saved, together with the old and venerable

copies of the Koran there deposited, especially the Cufic MSS., written

by Osman, the third Caliph. The piety of three sovereigns, Al-Mustasim

(last Caliph of Baghdad), Al-Muzaffar Shems al-Din Yusuf, chief of

Al-Yaman, and Al-Zahir Beybars, Baharite Sultan of Egypt, completed the

work in A.H. 688. This building was enlarged and beautified by the

princes of Egypt, and lasted upwards of two hundred years.

The sixth Mosque was built, almost as it now stands, by Kaid-Bey,

nineteenth Sultan of the Circassian Mamluk kings of Egypt, in A.H. 888:

it is now therefore more than four centuries old. Al-Mustasim's Mosque

had been struck by lightning during a storm; thirteen men were killed

at prayers, and the destroying element spared nothing but the interior

of the Hujrah.[FN#52] The railing and dome were restored; niches and a

pulpit were sent from Cairo, and the gates and minarets were

distributed as they are now. Not content with this, Kaid-Bey

established "Wakf" (bequests) and pensions, and introduced order among

the attendants on the tomb. In the tenth century, Sultan Sulayman the

Magnificent paved with fine white marble the Rauzah or garden, which

Kaid-Bey, not daring to alter, had left of earth, and erected the fine

minaret that bears his name.

[p.369]During the dominion of the later Sultans, and of Mohammed Ali, a

few trifling presents, of lamps, carpets, wax candles and chandeliers,

and a few immaterial alterations, have been made. The present head of

Al-Islam is, as I have before said, rebuilding one of the minarets and

the Northern colonnade of the temple.

Such is the history of the Mosque's prosperity.

During the siege of Al-Madinah by the Wahhabis,[FN#53] the principal

people seized and divided amongst themselves the treasures of the tomb,

which must have been considerable. When the town surrendered, Sa'ud,

accompanied by his principal officers, entered the Hujrah, but,

terrified by dreams, he did not penetrate behind the curtain, or

attempt to see the tomb. He plundered, however, the treasures in the

passage, the "Kaukab al-Durri[FN#54]" (or pearl star), and the

ornaments sent as presents from every part of Al-Islam. Part of these

he sold, it is said, for 150,000 Riyals (dollars), to Ghalib, Sharif of

Meccah, and the rest he carried with him to Daraiyah, his

capital.[FN#55] An accident prevented any further desecration of the

building. The greedy Wahhabis, allured by the appearance of the golden

or gilt globes and crescents surmounting the green dome, attempted to

throw down the latter. Two of their number, it is said, were killed by

falling

[p.370]from the slippery roof,[FN#56] and the rest, struck by

superstitious fears, abandoned the work of destruction. They injured,

however, the prosperity of the place by taxing the inhabitants, by

interrupting the annual remittances, and by forbidding visitors to

approach the tomb. They are spoken of with abhorrence by the people,

who quote a peculiarly bad trait in their characters, namely, that in

return for any small religious assistance of prayer or recitation, they

were in the habit of giving a few grains of gunpowder, or something

equally valuable, instead of "stone-dollars.[FN#57]"

When Abdullah, son of Sa'ud, had concluded in A.D. 1815 a treaty of

peace with Tussun Pasha, the Egyptian General bought back from the

townspeople, for 10,000 Riyals, all the golden vessels that had not

been melted down, and restored the treasure to its original place. This

I have heard denied; at the same time it rests upon credible evidence.

Amongst Orientals the events of the last generation are, usually

speaking, imperfectly remembered, and the Olema are well acquainted

with the history of vicissitudes which took place 1200 years ago, when

profoundly ignorant of what their grandfathers witnessed. Many

incredible tales also I heard concerning the present wealth of the

Al-Madinah Mosque: this must be expected when the exaggeration is

considered likely to confer honour upon the exaggerator.

The establishment attached to the Al-Madinah Mosque is greatly altered

since Burckhardt's time,[FN#58] the result of the increasing influence

of the Turkish half-breeds

[p.371]It is still extensive, because in the first place the principle

of divided labour is a favourite throughout the East, and secondly

because the Sons of the Holy Cities naturally desire to extract as much

as they can from the Sons of other cities with the least amount of

work. The substance of the following account was given to me by Omar

Effendi, and I compared it with the information of others upon whom I

could rely.

The principal of the Mosque, or Shaykh al-Harim, is no longer a

neuter.[FN#59] The present is a Turkish Pasha, Osman, appointed from

Constantinople with a salary of about 30,000 piastres a month. His Naib

or deputy is a black eunuch, the chief of the Aghawat,[FN#60] upon a

pay of 5000 piastres. The present principal of this college is one

Tayfur Agha, a slave of Esma Sultanah, sister to the late Sultan

Mahmud. The chief treasurer is called the Mudir al-Harim; he keeps an

eye upon the Khaznadar, or treasurer, whose salary is 2000 piastres.

The Mustaslim is the chief of the Katibs, or writers who settle the

[p.372]accounts of the Mosque; his pay is 1500, and under him is a

Nakib or assistant upon 1000 piastres. There are three Shaykhs of the

eunuchs who receive from 700 to 1000 piastres a month each. The

eunuchs, about a hundred and twenty in number, are divided into three

orders. The Bawwabin, or porters, open the doors of the Mosque. The

Khubziyah sweep the purer parts of the temple, and the lowest order,

popularly called "Battalin," clean away all impurities, beat those

found sleeping, and act as beadles, a duty here which involves

considerable use of the cane. These men receive as perquisites presents

from each visitor when they offer him the usual congratulation, and for

other small favours, such as permitting strangers to light the

lamps,[FN#61] or to sweep the floor. Their pay varies from 250 to 500

piastres a month: they are looked upon as honourable men, and are,

generally speaking, married, some of them indulging in three or four

wives,-which would have aroused Juvenal's bile. The Agha's character is

curious and exceptional as his outward conformation. Disconnected with

humanity, he is cruel, fierce, brave, and capable of any villany. His

frame is unnaturally long and lean, especially the arms and legs, with

high shoulders, protruding joints, and a face by contrast

extraordinarily large; he is unusually expert in the use of weapons,

and sitting well "home," he rides to admiration, his hoarse, thick

voice investing him with all the circumstances of command.

Besides the eunuchs, there are a number of free servants, called

Farrashin, attached to the Mosque; almost all the middle and lower

class of citizens belong to this order. They are divided into parties

of thirty each, and are changed every week, those on duty receiving a

Ghazi or twenty-two piastres for their services. Their business

[p.373]is to dust, and to spread the carpets, to put oil and wicks into

the lamps which the eunuchs let down from the ceiling, and, generally

speaking, diligently to do nothing.

Finally, the menial establishment of the Mosque consists of a Shaykh

al-Sakka (chief of the water-carriers), under whom are from forty-five

to fifty men who sprinkle the floors, water the garden, and, for a

consideration, supply a cupful of brackish liquid to visitors.

The literary establishment is even more extensive than the executive

and the menial. There is a Kazi, or chief judge, sent every year from

Constantinople. After twelve months at Al-Madinah, he passes on to

Meccah, and returns home after a similar term of service in the second

Holy City. Under him are three Muftis,[FN#62] of the Hanafi, the

Shafe'i, and the Maliki schools; the fourth, or Hanbali, is not

represented here or at Cairo.[FN#63] Each of these officers receives as

pay about two hundred and fifty piastres a month. The Ruasa,[FN#64] as

the Mu'ezzins (prayer-callers) here call themselves, are extensively

represented; there are forty-eight or forty-nine of the lowest order,

presided over by six Kubar or Masters, and these again are under the

Shaykh al-Ruasa, who alone has the privilege of calling to prayers from

the Raisiyah minaret. The Shaykh receives a hundred and fifty piastres,

the chiefs about a hundred, and the common criers sixty; there are

[p.374]forty-five Khatibs, who preach and pray before the congregation

on Fridays for a hundred and twenty piastres a month; they are under

the Shaykh al-Khutaba. About the same sum is given to seventy-five

Imams, who recite the five ordinary prayers of every day in the Mosque;

the Shaykh al-Aimmat is their superior.[FN#65]

Almost all the citizens of Al-Madinah who have not some official charge

about the temple qualify themselves to act as Muzawwirs. They begin as

boys to learn the formula of prayer, and the conducting of visitors;

and partly by begging, partly by boldness, they often pick up a

tolerable livelihood at an early age. The Muzawwir will often receive

strangers into his house, as was done to me, and direct their devotions

during the whole time of their stay. For such service he requires a sum

of money proportioned to his guests' circumstances, but this fee does

not end the connexion. If the Muzawwir visit the home of his Zair, he

expects to be treated with the utmost hospitality, and to depart with a

handsome present. A religious visitor will often transmit to his

cicerone at Meccah and at Al-Madinah yearly sums to purchase for

himself a prayer at the Ka'abah and the Prophet's Tomb. The remittance

is usually wrapped up in paper, and placed in a sealed leathern bag,

somewhat like a portfolio, upon which is worked the name of the person

entitled to receive it. It is then given in charge either to a

trustworthy pilgrim, or to the public treasurer, who accompanies the

principal caravans.

I could procure no exact information about the amount of money

forwarded every year from Constantinople and Cairo to Al-Madinah; the

only point upon which men seemed to agree was that they were defrauded

of half their dues. When the Sadaka and Aukaf (the alms and bequests)

arrive at the town, they are committed by the Surrah, or

[p.375]financier of the caravan, to the Muftis, the chief of the

Khatibs, and the Kazi's clerk. These officers form a committee, and

after reckoning the total of the families entitled to pensions, divide

the money amongst them, according to the number in each household, and

the rank of the pensioners. They are divided into five orders:-

The Olema, or learned, and the Mudarrisin, who profess, lecture, or

teach adults in the Harim.

The Imams and Khatibs.

The descendants of the Prophet.

The Fukaha, poor divines, pedadogues, gerund-grinders, who teach boys

to read the Koran.

The Awam, or nobile vulgus of the Holy City, including the Ahali, or

burghers of the town, and the Mujawirin, or those settled in the place.

Omar Effendi belonged to the second order, and he informed me that his

share varied from three to fifteen Riyals per annum.

[FN#1] In Oriental geography the parasang still, as in the days of

Pliny, greatly varies, from 1500 to 6000 yards. Captain Francklin,

whose opinion is generally taken, makes it (in his Tour to Persia) a

measure of about four miles (Preface to Ibn Haukal, by Sir Gore

Ouseley).

[FN#2] M.C. de Perceval (Essai sur l'Histoire des Arabes avant

l'Islamisme), makes Amlak son of Laoud (Lud), son of Shem, or,

according to others, son of Ham. That learned writer identifies the

Amalik with the Phoenicians, the Amalekites, the Canaanites, and the

Hyksos. He alludes, also, to an ancient tradition which makes them to

have colonised Barbary in Africa.

[FN#3] The Dabistan al-Mazahib relates a tradition that the Almighty,

when addressing the angels in command, uses the Arabic tongue, but when

speaking in mercy or beneficence, the Deri dialect of Persian.

[FN#4] These were the giants who fought against Israel in Palestine.

[FN#5] In this wild tradition we find a confirmation of the sound

geographical opinion which makes Arabia "Une des pepinieres du genre

humain" (M. Jomard). It must be remembered that the theatre of all

earliest civilisation has been a fertile valley with a navigable

stream, like Sind, Egypt, and Mesopotamia. The existence of such a spot

in Arabia would have altered every page of her history; she would then

have become a centre, not a source, of civilisation. Strabo's Malothes

river in Al-Yaman is therefore a myth. As it is, the immense population

of the peninsula-still thick, even in the deserts-has, from the

earliest ages, been impelled by drought, famine, or desire of conquest,

to emigrate into happier regions. All history mentions two main streams

which took their rise in the wilds. The first set to the North-East,

through Persia, Mekran, Baluchistan, Sind, and the Afghan Mountains, as

far as Samarkand, Bokhara, and Tibet; the other, flowing towards the

North-West, passed through Egypt and Barbary into Etruria, Spain, the

Isles of the Mediterranean, and Southern France. There are two minor

emigrations chronicled in history, and written in the indelible

characters of physiognomy and philology. One of these set in an

exiguous but perennial stream towards India, especially Malabar, where,

mixing with the people of the country, the Arab merchants became the

progenitors of the Moplah race. The other was a partial emigration,

also for commercial purposes, to the coast of Berberah, in Eastern

Africa, where, mixing with the Galla tribes, the people of Hazramaut

became the sires of the extensive Somali and Sawahil nations. Thus we

have from Arabia four different lines of emigration, tending N.E. and

S.E., N.W. and S.W. At some future time I hope to develop this curious

but somewhat obscure portion of Arabian history. It bears upon a most

interesting subject, and serves to explain, by the consanguinity of

races, the marvellous celerity with which the faith of Al-Islam spread

from the Pillars of Hercules to the confines of China-embracing part of

Southern Europe, the whole of Northern and a portion of Central Africa,

and at least three-fourths of the continent of Asia.

[FN#6] Of this name M.C. de Perceval remarks, "Le mot Arcam etait une

designation commune a tous ces rois." He identifies it with Rekem

(Numbers xxxi. 8), one of the kings of the Midianites; and recognises

in the preservation of the royal youth the history of Agag and Samuel.

[FN#7] And some most ignorantly add, "after the entrance of Moses into

the Promised Land."

[FN#8] In those days, we are told, the Jews, abandoning their original

settlement in Al-Ghabbah or the low lands to the N. of the town,

migrated to the highest portions of the Madinah plain on the S. and E.,

and the lands of the neighbourhood of the Kuba Mosque.

[FN#9] When describing Ohod, I shall have occasion to allude to Aaron's

dome, which occupies the highest part. Few authorities, however,

believe that Aaron was buried there; his grave, under a small stone

cupola, is shown over the summit of Mount Hor, in the Sinaitic

Peninsula, and is much visited by devotees.

[FN#10] It must be remembered that many of the Moslem geographers

derive the word "Arabia" from a tract of land in the neighbourhood of

Al-Madinah.

[FN#11] Khaybar in Hebrew is supposed to signify a castle. D'Herbelot

makes it to mean a pact or association of the Jews against the Moslems.

This fort appears to be one of the latest as well as the earliest of

the Hebrew settlements in Al-Hijaz. Benjamin of Tudela asserts that

there were 50,000 Jews resident at their old colony, Bartema in A.D.

1703 found remnants of the people there, but his account of them is

disfigured by fable. In Niebuhr's time the Beni Khaybar had independent

Shaykhs, and were divided into three tribes, viz., the Benu Masad, the

Benu Shahan, and the Benu Anizah (this latter, however, is a Moslem

name), who were isolated and hated by the other Jews, and therefore the

traveller supposes them to have been Karaites. In Burckhardt's day the

race seems to have been entirely rooted out. I made many inquiries, and

all assured me that there is not a single Jewish family now in Khaybar.

It is indeed the popular boast in Al-Hijaz, that, with the exception of

Jeddah (and perhaps Yambu', where the Prophet never set his foot),

there is not a town in the country harbouring an Infidel. This has now

become a point of fanatic honour; but if history may be trusted, it has

become so only lately.

[FN#12] When the Arabs see the ass turn tail to the wind and rain, they

exclaim, "Lo! he turneth his back upon the mercy of Allah!"

[FN#13] M.C. de Perceval quotes Judith, ii. 13, 26, and Jeremiah, xlix.

28, to prove that Holofernes, the general of Nebuchadnezzar the First,

laid waste the land of Midian and other parts of Northern Arabia.

[FN#14] Saba in Southern Arabia.

[FN#15] The erection of this dyke is variously attributed to Lukman the

Elder (of the tribe of Ad) and to Saba bin Yashjab. It burst according

to some, beneath the weight of a flood; according to others, it was

miraculously undermined by rats. A learned Indian Shaykh has mistaken

the Arabic word "Jurad," a large kind of mouse or rat, for "Jarad," a

locust, and he makes the wall to have sunk under a "bar i Malakh," or

weight of locusts! No event is more celebrated in the history of pagan

Arabia than this, or more trustworthy, despite the exaggeration of the

details-the dyke is said to have been four miles long by four broad-and

the fantastic marvels which are said to have accompanied its bursting.

The ruins have lately been visited by M. Arnaud, a French traveller,

who communicated his discovery to the French Asiatic Society in 1845.

[FN#16] Ma al-Sama, "the water (or "the splendour") of heaven," is,

generally speaking, a feminine name amongst the pagan Arabs; possibly

it is here intended as a matronymic.

[FN#17] This expedition to Al-Madinah is mentioned by all the

pre-Islamatic historians, but persons and dates are involved in the

greatest confusion. Some authors mention two different expeditions by

different Tobbas; others only one, attributing it differently, however,

to two Tobbas,-Abu Karb in the 3rd century of the Christian era, and

Tobba al-Asghar, the last of that dynasty, who reigned, according to

some, in A.D. 300, according to others in A.D. 448. M.C. de Perceval

places the event about A.D. 206, and asserts that the Aus and Khazraj

did not emigrate to Al-Madinah before A.D. 300. The word Tobba or

Tubba, I have been informed by some of the modern Arabs, is still used

in the Himyaritic dialect of Arabic to signify "the Great" or "the

Chief."

[FN#18] Nothing is more remarkable in the annals of the Arabs than

their efforts to prove the Ishmaelitic descent of Mohammed; at the same

time no historic question is more open to doubt.

[FN#19] If this be true it proves that the Jews of Al-Hijaz had in

those days superstitious reverence for the Ka'abah; otherwise the

Tobba, after conforming to the law of Moses, would not have shown it

this mark of respect. Moreover there is a legend that the same Rabbis

dissuaded the Tobba from plundering the sacred place when he was

treacherously advised so to do by the Benu Hudayl Arabs. I have lately

perused "The Worship of Ba'alim in Israel," based upon the work of Dr.

R. Dozy, "The Israelites in Mecca." By Dr. H. Oort. Translated from the

Dutch, and enlarged, with Notes and Appendices, by the Right Rev. John

William Colenso, D.D. (Longmans.) I see no reason why Meccah or Beccah

should be made to mean "A Slaughter"; why the Ka'abah should be founded

by the Simeonites; why the Hajj should be the Feast of Trumpets; and

other assertions in which everything seems to be taken for granted

except etymology, which is tortured into confession. If Meccah had been

founded by the Simeonites, why did the Persians and the Hindus respect

it?

[FN#20] It is curious that Abdullah, Mohammed's father, died and was

buried at Al-Madinah, and that his mother Aminah's tomb is at Abwa, on

the Madinah road. Here, too, his great-grandfather Hashim married Salma

Al-Mutadalliyah, before him espoused to Uhayhah, of the Aus tribe.

Shaybah, generally called Abd al-Muttalib, the Prophet's grandfather,

was the son of Salma, and was bred at Al-Madinah.

[FN#21] Ayyas bin Ma'az died, it is said, a Moslem.

[FN#22] "Bayat al-Akabat al-ula." It is so called because this oath was

sworn at a place called Al-Akabah (the Mountain-road), near Muna. A

Mosque was afterwards built there to commemorate the event.

[FN#23] Some Moslem writers suppose that Mohammed singled out twelve

men as apostles, and called them Nakil, in imitation of the example of

our Saviour. Other Moslems ignore both the fact and the intention. M.C.

de Perceval gives the names of these Nakils in vol. iii. p. 8.

[FN#24] Orthodox Moslems do not fail to quote this circumstance in

honour of the first Caliph, upon whom moreover they bestow the title of

"Friend of the Cave." The Shi'ahs, on the other hand, hating Abu Bakr,

see in it a symptom of treachery, and declare that the Prophet feared

to let the "Old Hyena," as they opprobriously term the venerable

successor, out of his sight for fear lest he should act as spy to the

Kuraysh. The voice of history and of common sense is against the

Shi'ahs. M.C. de Perceval justly remarks, that Abu Bakr and Omar were

men truly worthy of their great predecessor.

[FN#25] This animal's name, according to some, was Al-Kaswa ("the tips

of whose ears are cropped"); according to others Al-Jada'a ("one

mutilated in the ear, hand, nose, or lip"). The Prophet bought her for

800 dirhams, on the day before his flight, from Abu Bakr, who had

fattened two fine animals of his own breeding. The camel was offered as

a gift, but Mohammed insisted upon paying its price, because, say the

Moslem casuists, he being engaged in the work of God would receive no

aid from man. According to M.C. de Perceval, the Prophet preached from

the back of Al-Kaswa the celebrated pilgrimage sermon at Arafat on the

8th March, A.D. 632.

[FN#26] The Prophet is generally supposed to have started from Meccah

on the first of the same month, on a Friday or a Monday. This

discrepancy is supposed to arise from the fact that Mohammed fled his

house in Meccah on a Friday, passed three days in the cave on Jabal

Saur, and finally left it for Al-Madinah on Monday, which therefore,

according to Moslem divines, was the first day of the "Hijrah." But the

aera now commences on the 1st of the previous Muharram, an arrangement

made seventeen years after the date of the flight by Omar the Caliph,

with the concurrence of Ali.

[FN#27] The distance from Kuba to Al-Madinah is little more than three

miles, for which six hours-Friday prayers being about noon-may be

considered an inordinately long time. But our author might urge as a

reason that the multitude of people upon a narrow road rendered the

Prophet's advance a slow one, and some historians relate that he spent

several hours in conversation with the Benu Salim.

[FN#28] Mohammed never would eat these strong smelling vegetables on

account of his converse with the angels, even as modern "Spiritualists"

refuse to smoke tobacco; at the same time he allowed his followers to

do so, except when appearing in his presence, entering a Mosque, or

joining in public prayers. The pious Moslem still eats his onions with

these limitations. Some sects, however, as the Wahhabis, considering

them abominable, avoid them on all occasions.

[FN#29] The name of the tribe literally means "sons of a carpenter";

hence the error of the learned and violent Humphrey Prideaux, corrected

by Sale.

[FN#30] Some say that Abu Bakr had no abode near the Mosque. But it is

generally agreed upon, that he had many houses, one in Al-Bakia,

another in the higher parts of Al-Madinah, and among them a hut on the

spot between the present gates called Salam and Rahmah.

[FN#31] It is clear from the fact above stated, that in those days the

Jews of Arabia were in a state of excitement, hourly expecting the

advent of their Messiah, and that Mohammed believed himself to be the

person appointed to complete the law of Moses.

[FN#32] In many minor details the above differs from the received

accounts of Pre-Islamitic and early Mohammedan history. Let the blame

be borne by the learned Shaykh Abd al-Hakk al-Muhaddis of Delhi, and

his compilation, the "Jazb al-Kulub ila Diyar al-Mahhub (the "Drawing

of Hearts towards the Holy Parts"). From the multitude of versions at

last comes correctness.

[FN#33] A Firman from the Porte, dated 13th February, 1841, provides

for the paying of these pensions regularly. "It being customary to send

every year from Egypt provisions in kind to the two Holy Cities, the

provisions and other articles, whatever they may be, which have up to

this time been sent to this place, shall continue to be sent thither."

Formerly the Holy Land had immense property in Egypt, and indeed in all

parts of Al-Islam. About thirty years ago, Mohammed Ali Pasha bought up

all the Wakf (church property), agreeing to pay for its produce, which

he rated at five piastres the ardeb, when it was worth three times as

much. Even that was not regularly paid. The Sultan has taken advantage

of the present crisis to put down Wakf in Turkey. The Holy Land,

therefore, will gradually lose all its land and house property, and

will soon be compelled to depend entirely upon the presents of the

pilgrims, and the Sadakah, or alms, which are still sent to it by the

pious Moslems of distant regions. As might be supposed, both the

Meccans and the Madani loudly bewail their hard fates, and by no means

approve of the Ikram, the modern succedaneum for an extensive and

regularly paid revenue. At a future time, I shall recur to this subject.

[FN#34] The prayer-niche and the minaret both date their existence from

the days of Al-Walid, the builder of the third Mosque. At this age of

their empire, the Moslems had travelled far and had seen art in various

lands; it is therefore not without a shadow of reason that the Hindus

charge them with having borrowed their two favourite symbols, and

transformed them into an arch and a tower.

[FN#35] The Ustawanat al-Hannanah, or "Weeping-Post." See page 335,

chapter XVI., ante.

[FN#36] As usual, there are doubts about the invention of this article.

It was covered with cloth by the Caliph Osman, or, as others say, by

Al-Mu'awiyah, who, deterred by a solar eclipse from carrying out his

project of removing it to Damascus, placed it upon a new framework,

elevated six steps above the ground. Al-Mahdi wished to raise the

Mambar six steps higher, but was forbidden so to do by the Imam Malik.

The Abbasides changed the pulpit, and converted the Prophet's original

seat into combs, which were preserved as relics. Some historians

declare that the original Mambar was burnt with the Mosque in A.H. 654.

In Ibn Jubayr's time (A.H. 580), it was customary for visitors to place

their right hands upon a bit of old wood, inserted into one of the

pillars of the pulpit; this was supposed to be a remnant of the

"weeping-post." Every Sultan added some ornament to the Mambar, and at

one time it was made of white marble, covered over with a dome of the

"eight metals." It is now a handsome structure, apparently of wood,

painted and gilt of the usual elegant form, which has been compared by

some travellers with the suggesta of Roman Catholic churches. I have

been explicit about this pulpit, hoping that, next time the knotty

question of Apostolic seats comes upon the tapis, our popular authors

will not confound a Curule chair with a Moslem Mambar. Of the latter

article, Lane (Mod. Egyptians, chap. iii.) gave a sketch in the

"Interior of a Mosque."

[FN#37] The Prophet is said to have had a dwelling-house in the

Ambariyah, or the Western quarter of the Manakhah suburb, and here,

according to some, he lodged Mariyah, the Coptic girl. As pilgrims do

not usually visit the place, and nothing of the original building can

be now remaining, I did not trouble myself about it.

[FN#38] Meaning the Prophet's fifteen to twenty-five wives. Their

number is not settled. He left nine wives and two concubines. It was

this title after the Koranic order (chap, xxxiii. v. 53) which rendered

their widowhood eternal; no Arab would willingly marry a woman whom he

has called mother or sister.

[FN#39] Authors mention a place outside the Northern wall called

Al-Suffah, which was assigned by Mohammed as a habitation to houseless

believers; from which circumstance these paupers derived the title of

Ashab al-Suffah, "Companions of the Sofa."

[FN#40] So I translate the Arabicised word "Saj."

[FN#41] A place about five miles from Al-Madinah, on the Meccan way.

See Chap. XIV.

[FN#42] And curious to say Al-Islam still has the largest cathedral in

the world-St. Sophia's at Constantinople. Next to this ranks St.

Peter's at Rome; thirdly, I believe, the "Jumma Masjid," or cathedral

of the old Moslem city Bijapur in India; the fourth is St. Paul's,

London,

[FN#43] It is to this monarch that the Saracenic Mosque-architecture

mainly owes its present form. As will be seen, he had every advantage

of borrowing from Christian, Persian, and even Indian art. From the

first he took the dome, from the second the cloister-it might have been

naturalised in Arabia before his time-and possibly from the third the

minaret and the prayer-niche. The latter appears to be a peculiarly

Hindu feature in sacred buildings, intended to contain the idol, and to

support the lamps, flowers, and other offerings placed before it.

[FN#44] The reader will remember that in the sixth year of the Hijrah,

after Mohammed's marriage with Zaynab, his wives were secluded behind

the Hijab, Pardah, or curtain. A verse of the Koran directed the

Moslems to converse with them behind this veil. Hence the general

practice of Al-Islam: now it is considered highly disgraceful in any

Moslem to make a Moslemah expose her face, and she will frequently

found a threat upon the prejudice. A battle has been prevented by this

means, and occasionally an insurrection has been caused by it.

[FN#45] Amongst which some authors enumerate the goblet and the mirror

of Kisra.

[FN#46] The outer wall, built by Al-Walid, remained till A.H. 550, when

Jamal al-Din of Isafahan, Wazir to Nur al-Din Shahid Mahmud bin Zangi,

supplied its place by a grating of open sandal woodwork, or, as others

say, of iron. About the same time, Sayyid Abu 'l Hayja sent from Egypt

a sheet of white brocade, embroidered in red silk with the chapter

Y.S., in order to cover the inner wall. This was mounted on the

accession of Al-Mustazi bi'llah, the Caliph, after which it became the

custom for every Sultan to renew the offering. And in A.H. 688, Kalaun

of Egypt built the outer network of brass as it now is, and surmounted

it with the Green Dome.

[FN#47] The inner wall, erected by Al-Walid, seems to have resisted the

fire which in A.H. 654 burnt the Mosque to the ground. Also, in A.H.

886, when the building was consumed by lightning, the Hujrah was spared

by the devouring element.

[FN#48] After the Prophet's death and burial, Ayishah continued to

occupy the same room, without even a curtain between her and the tomb.

At last, vexed by the crowds of visitors, she partitioned off the

hallowed spot with a wall. She visited the grave unveiled as long as

her father Abu Bakr only was placed behind the Prophet; but when Omar's

corpse was added, she always covered her face.

[FN#49] One of these, the minaret at the Bab-al-Salam, was soon

afterwards overthrown by Al-Walid's brother Sulayman, because it shaded

the house of Marwan, where he lodged during his visit to Al-Madinah in

the cold season.

[FN#50] The dinar (denarius) was a gold piece, a ducat, a sequin.

[FN#51] I purpose to touch upon this event in a future chapter, when

describing my route from Al-Madinah to Meccah.

[FN#52] "On this occasion," says Al-Samanhudi, quoted by Burckhardt,

"the interior of the Hujrah was cleared, and three deep graves were

found in the inside, full of rubbish, but the author of this history,

who himself entered it, saw no traces of tombs." Yet in another place

he, an eye-witness, had declared that the coffin containing the dust of

Mohammed was cased with silver. I repeat these details.

[FN#53] Burckhardt has given a full account of this event in his

history of the Wahhabis.

[FN#54] See Chapter XVI., ante.

[FN#55] My predecessor estimates the whole treasury in those days to

have been worth 300,000 Riyals,-a small sum, if we consider the length

of time during which it was accumulating. The chiefs of the town

appropriated 1 cwt. of golden vessels, worth at most 50,000 dollars,

and Sa'ud sold part of the plunder to Ghalib for 100,000 (I was told

one-third more), reserving for himself about the same amount of pearls

and corals. Burckhardt supposes that the governors of Al-Madinah, who

were often independent chiefs, and sometimes guardians of the tombs,

made occasional draughts upon the generosity of the Faithful.

[FN#56] I inquired in vain about the substance that covered the dome.

Some told me it was tinfoil; others supposed it to be rivetted with

green tiles.

[FN#57] The Badawi calls a sound dollar "Kirsh Hajar," or "Riyal

Hajar," a "stone dollar."

[FN#58] At the same time his account is still carefully copied by our

popular and general authors, who, it is presumed, could easily become

better informed.

[FN#59] The Persians in remote times, as we learn from Herodotus (lib.

6), were waited upon by eunuchs, and some attribute to them the

invention. Ammianus Marcellinus (lib. 14) ascribes the origin to

Semiramis. In Al-Islam, the employment of such persons about the Mosque

is a "Bida'ah" or custom unknown in the time of the Prophet. It is said

to have arisen from the following three considerations: 1. These people

are concentrated in their professions; 2. They must see and touch

strange women at the shrines; and 3. The shrines are "Harim," or

sacred, having adyta which are kept secret from the prying eyes of men,

and, therefore, should be served by eunuchs. It is strange that the

Roman Catholic church, as well as the Moslem Mosque, should have

admitted such an abomination.

[FN#60] One of these gentry, if called "Tawashi,"-his generic

name,-would certainly insult a stranger. The polite form of address to

one of them is "Agha"-Master,-in the plural "Aghawat." In partibus,

they exact the greatest respect from men, and the title of the Eunuch

of the Tomb is worth a considerable sum to them. The eunuchs of

Al-Madinah are more numerous and better paid than those of Meccah: they

are generally the slaves of rich men at Constantinople, and prefer this

city on account of its climate.

[FN#61] The "Sons of the City," however, are always allowed to do such

service gratis; if, indeed, they are not paid for it.

[FN#62] Others told me that there were only two muftis at Al-Madinah,

namely, those of the Hanafi and Shafe'i schools. If this be true, it

proves the insignificance of the followers of Malik, which personage,

like others, is less known in his own town than elsewhere.

[FN#63] The Hanbali school is nowhere common except in Nijd, and the

lands Eastward as far as Al-Hasa. At present it labours under a sort of

imputation, being supposed to have thrown out a bad offshoot, the

Wahhabis.

[FN#64] "Ruasa" is the plural of Rais, a chief or president. It is the

term generally applied in Arabia to the captain of a vessel, and in

Al-Yaman it often means a barber, in virtue, I presume, of its

root-Ras, the head.

[FN#65] Some say that the Egyptian distinction between the Imam Khatib

and the Imam Ratib does not obtain at Al-Madinah.

[p.376]CHAPTER XVIII.

Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah & Meccah — Volume 1 · 第 49 / 56 题