The surplus portion of the leather is now trimmed off on the Heel-Seat
Rounding Machine, and the channel cut by the knife on the Rough
Rounding Machine is turned up so that it leaves the channel open. This
is done by the Goodyear Universal Channel Opening Machine, in which a
little wheel, turning very rapidly, lays the lip smoothly back.
~SEWING THE SOLE TO THE SHOE~
The outsole is now sewed to the welt. This operation is performed on
the Goodyear Outsole Rapid Lockstitch Machine, which is very similar in
operation to the Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine used in sewing the welt
to the shoe. The stitch, however, is finer and extends from the channel
which was cut for it to the upper side of the welt, where it shows
after the shoe has been finished. The lockstitch formed by this machine
is a most durable one. Using a thoroughly waxed thread, it holds the
outsole securely in place, even after the connecting stitches have been
worn off. This is one of the most important machines in the shoemaking
process. It is able to sew even in the narrow shank, where a machine
using a straight needle could not possibly place its stitch.
The “Star Channel Cementing Machine--Model A” is again called into
operation for the purpose of coating with cement the inside of the
channel in which this stitch has been made. A special brush with guard
is used for this purpose, and the operation is very quickly performed
by the skilled operator.
After this cement has been allowed to set a sufficient length of time,
the channel lip, which has previously been laid back against the sole,
is again forced into its former position and held securely in place
by rubber cement. This work is done by the Goodyear Channel Laying
Machine, in which a rapidly revolving wheel provided with a peculiar
arrangement of flanges forces back into place, securely hiding the
stitches from observation on this portion of the shoe.
[Illustration: MACHINES WHICH PUNCH THE SOLES OF SHOES