The warp threads--the threads which run lengthwise of the cloth--are
sized and wound upon large reels, and from these transferred to a large
wooden roll called the warp beam, which holds all the warp threads,
usually several thousands.
The filling threads are put on shuttle bobbins and placed in the
shuttles to be refilled by the operatives as required, and as the
weaving progresses.
The warp beam is then taken to the drawing-in room, where these several
thousand threads are drawn through wire heddles in a frame called the
harness, then drawn through a wire reed. The completed warp beam is now
ready for the loom.
The harnesses are placed in the loom, and by means of what is called
the “head-motion,” part of the threads are raised and part are lowered.
This allows the filling shuttles to pass above some threads and below
others, filling out the pattern required.
The cloth, having been made in such length as is desired, is taken from
the loom, and, by what is known as burling and mending, any knots or
threads woven in wrongly are removed, and any imperfections which have
been discovered through a careful examination are corrected.
The web or cloth is scoured or washed and the oil and any foreign
matter removed.
Undressed fabrics would now be fulled. This consists of running cloth
through a fulling machine, where, moistened with a specially prepared
soap, it is subjected to a great pressure and pounding, which aids in
giving the required finish.
There are different kinds of finishes which require different
treatments, and it would be impracticable for us to dwell in detail
upon this matter here.
If dyed in the piece, the web or cloth is taken to the dyehouse and
dyed. It is thoroughly rinsed, all moisture is extracted from it, and
it is dried.
After drying the cloth is run through a machine by which it is brushed
and sheared, the brushing lifting the long fibres, and the shearing
cutting them off at even length. The cloth is put through the press,
which irons it out, giving it the lustre or the finish that is desired.
It is examined again for further imperfections, and if such have
occurred they are corrected.
Measuring, weighing, rolling and tagging follow, and the cloth is
packed and ready for the market.
Woolens are made from short staple wools, known as clothing wools, and
in the finished woolens the fibres of the yarns cross or are mingled
together. In the case of woolens, after the scouring, it is frequently
necessary to remove burrs or other vegetable matter from the wool. To
accomplish this the wool is dipped in a bath of chloride of aluminum or
sulphuric acid solution, then the moisture is extracted and the wool
is put through a drier, where the temperature must be at least 212
degrees. This heat carbonizes the foreign substance, but has little
effect on the animal fibres of the wool.
[Illustration: FINISHING BOX