CHAPTER IV.

WORKMEN IN HAMBURG.

Here amid the implements of labor, in the dingy _werkstube_ in Johannis

Strasse; lighted by the single flicker of an oil lamp, with the workboard

for a writing-desk, let me endeavour to collect some few scattered

details about the German workmen in Hamburg.

German workmen! do not the very words recall to your memory old

amber-coloured engravings of sturdy men, with waving locks, grasping the

arm of the printing-press, by the side of Faust, Schoeffer, and

Gottenberg? Or, perhaps, the words of Schiller's "Song of the Bell" may

not be unknown to you, and hum in your ears:

Frisch, gesellen, seyd zur hand!

Von der stirne heiss,

Rinnen muss der schweiss.

Briskly, comrades to your work!

From the flushing brow

Must the sweatdrops flow.

But your modern German workman is somewhat of a different stamp; he

points his moustaches with black wax, trims his locks _a la Francaise_,

and wears wide pantaloons. He tapers his waist with a leathern strap,

and wears a blouse while at his labors. He discards old forms and

regulations as far as he can or dare, and thus the old word "Meister" has

fallen into disrepute, and the titles "Herr" and "Principal" occupy its

place. Schiller, like a true poet, calls his workmen "gesellen," which

is the old German word meaning companion or comrade, but modern

politeness has changed it into "gehulfe," assistant; and "mitglied,"

member. In some places, however, the words "knecht" and "knappe,"

servant or attendant, are still in use to signify journeyman; as

"schusterknecht," shoemaker; "schlachterknecht," butcher's man;

"muhlknappe," miller; "bergknappe," miner; but these terms are employed

more from habit than from any invidious distinction.

Well! we live and work on the fourth floor of a narrow slip of a house in

Johannis Strasse. Herr Sorgenpfennig, our "principal," occupies the

suite of four rooms, and devotes a central one (to which no light can

possibly come save at second hand through the door), to his "gesellen."

We are three; a quiet Dane, full of sage precepts, and practical

illustrations of economy; a roystering Bavarian from Nuremberg, who never

fails to grieve over the thin beer of Hamburg, and who, as member of a

choral union near Das Johanneum, delights in vigorous and unexpected

bursts of song; and myself.

Workmen in Hamburg are still in a state of villanage; beneath the roof of

the "Herr" do they find at once a workshop, a dormitory, and a home. We

endeavour so far to conform to the rules of propriety as to escape the

imprisonment and other penalties that await the "unruly journeyman." The

table of Herr Sorgenpfennig is our own, and a very liberal one it is

esteemed to be. Let me sketch you a few of its items: delicious coffee,

"white bread and brown," or rather black, and unlimited butter, make up

our breakfast. Dinner always commences with a soup, usually made from

meat, sometimes from herbs, lemon, sweet fruit, or other ingredients

utterly indescribable. Meat, to be fit for a German table, must be

carefully pared of every vestige of fat; if boiled it is underdone,

unless expressly devoted to the soup, when the juiceless shreds that

remain are served up with plums or prepared vegetables; if it be baked

(roasting is almost unknown) it is dry and tasteless. Bacon and

sausages, with their inevitable accompaniment, sourkraut, is a favourite

dish; but not so unvaryingly so as some choose to imagine. Acids

generally are much admired in German cookery. In nothing, perhaps, are

the Hamburgers more to be envied, in a gastronomic view, than in their

vegetables. Singularly small as are these products of the kitchen

garden, they are sweeter and more delicately flavoured than any I ever

tasted elsewhere. As _entremets_, and as accompaniments to meat, they

are largely consumed. The Hamburgers laugh at the English cooks who boil

green peas and potatoes in plain water, for here boiled potatoes are

scarcely known--that nutritious vegetable being cut into slices and

fried; while green peas are slowly stewed in butter or cream, and

sweetened with fine sugar. But we "gesellen" have plebeian appetites,

and whatever dish may be set before us, as surely vanishes to its latest

shred. The little patches of puff-paste, smeared with preserve, sent to

us as Sunday treat, or the curious production in imitation of our English

pie, and filled with maccaroni, are immolated at once without misgiving

or remorse. If we sup at all, it is upon pasty, German cheese, full of

holes, as if it had been made in water, or a hot liver sausage, as an

extraordinary indulgence.

And our "Licht Braten?" Herr Sorgenpfennig rubs his short, fat hands,

and his round eyes twinkle again, as he tells his little cluster of

"Herren Gesellen" that there will be a feast, a sumptuous _abendbrod_, to

inaugurate the commencement of candle-light. The "Licht Braten," as this

entertainment is called, is one of the old customs of Hamburg now falling

into disuse. It would be doing Herr Sorgenpfennig an eternal injustice

did we pass over it in silence, more especially as he boasts of it as

real "North German fare." Here we have it: raw herrings to begin with.

Bah! I confess this does not sound well upon the first blush; but, then,

a raw dried herring is somewhat different to one salted in a barrel. To

cook it would be a sacrilege, say the Germans. And then the

accompaniments! We have two dishes of wonderful little potatoes, baked

in an oven, freshly peeled and shining; and in the centre of the table is

a bowl of melted butter and mustard well mixed together. You dip your

potato in the butter, and while you thus soften the deep-sea saltness of

your herring, the rough flavour of the latter relishes and overcomes the

unctuous dressing of your potato. I swear to you it is delicious!

But where is our "braten," the "roast," in fact? Oh, thou unhappy Peter!

I see thee still, reeking over the glowing forge fire, cooking savoury

sausages thou art forbidden to taste! I see thee still, struggling in

vain to "bolt" the blazing morsel, rashly plucked (in the momentary

absence of Sorgenpfennig), from the bubbling, hissing fat, and thrust

into thy jaws. Those burning tears! those mad distortions of limb and

feature! God pity thee, Peter, but it was not to be! Those savoury

sausages are our "braten," and they smack wonderfully after the herrings.

If there is one item in our repast to be deplored, it is the Hamburger

beer, which, however, is as good as it can be, I suppose, for the

money--something under an English penny a bottle. But here is wine;

good, sound wine, not indeed from the Rhine, nor the Moselle, but red,

sparkling, French _vin ordinaire_, at a mark--fourteen-pence the bottle.

Truly, Hamburg, thou art a painstaking, industrious, money-making city,

with more available wealth among thy pitch and slime than other towns can

boast of in their trimness and finery, but spendthrift, and debauched,

and dissolute withal art thou!

_Punch, du edler trank der Britten_!

Punch, thou noble drink of Britons--

the outburst of some exhilarated poet--should be inscribed upon thy

double-turreted gate, good Hamburg! The odorous steam of rum and lemon

contends in thine open streets with the fumes of tobacco; the union of

these two perfumes make up thine atmosphere; while thy public walks are

strewn with the unsmoked ends of cigars, thick as the shrivelled leaves

in autumn.

Seriously, the Hamburger toils earnestly, and takes his pleasure with a

proportionate amount of zeal. His enjoyments, like his labours, are of a

strong and solid description. The workmen trundle _kegle_ balls in long,

wooden-built alleys; and down in deep beer cellars, snug and warm, do

they cluster, fondling their pipes like favoured children; taking long

gulps of well-made punch, or deeper draughts of Bairisches beer. If they

talk, they do so vehemently, but they love better to sit and listen to

some little troop of _harfenisten_--street harp-players--as they tone the

waltzes of Lanner, or sing some chivalrous romance. Sometimes they form

themselves into bands of choristers, and sing with open windows into the

street, or play at billiards as if it were for life, or congregate in the

dance-houses, and waltz by the hour without a pause. In all they are

hearty, somewhat boisterous, but never wanting in good temper.

As marriage is out of the question with the workman in Hamburg, whether

stranger or native--unless indeed the latter may have passed through the

probationary course of travel and conscription, and be already on the

verge of mastership--so also is honourable courtship. His low wages and

dependent position form an impassable barrier to wedlock, and a married

journeyman is almost unknown. By the law of his native city he must

travel for two or three years, independently of the chances of

conscription, and thus for a period at least he becomes a restless

wanderer, without tie or home. No prudent maiden can listen to his

addresses, and thus it is that Hamburg swarms with unfortunates; and this

it is which gives them rights and immunities unknown in any other city.

A Tramp's Wallet stored by an English goldsmith during his wanderings in Germany and France · 第 4 / 28 章