The family of conifers shows a special characteristic. In them I

perceive not only a ramification of the trunk into branches, but also

their articulation on a stem that rises straight and single,--an

articulation which gradually multiplies into threadlike leaves. The

fir-tree is typical of such a class, with the symmetrical intersections

of its branches, whose essential plan is simply a perpendicular crossed

by a graded series of horizontal lines.

This type includes many variations in the different regions of the

world. The most interesting is that of the pines I studied in Japan.

Rather than the rigidity usual to wood, the trunk appears to have a

fleshy elasticity. Under the tension on the strong, cylindrical stem

of compact fibers, its sheath splits and the rough bark, divided

into pentagonal scales,--with deep cracks between them from which

resin oozes abundantly,--expands in tough layers. And if, through the

suppleness of its jointless body, the trunk yields to the exterior

forces which violently assail it or seductively allure it, the tree

resists by its inherent energy; and the drama of its pathetic struggle

is written in the tormented twisting of its boughs.

Thus, along the tragic old road to Tokkaido, I have seen the pines

sustain the onslaught of the powers of the air. In vain the wind of the

ocean lays them low. Clinging with every root to the stony soil, the

invincible trees writhe, twist upon themselves, and,--like a man braced

on all fours, who butts with his head, kicks in all directions, and

hunches himself together,--they seem to grapple with the antagonist,

to re-establish themselves, and to straighten up under the Protean

assaults of the monster who would overcome them. All along the solemn

beach I have passed their heroic lines in review on this somber

evening, and watched all the vicissitudes of the battle. One leans

backward, and stretches toward the sky a monstrous panoply of halberds

and shields which he brandishes in Briarean fists; another, full of

wounds, mutilated as by blows of clubs, and bristling on all sides with

jagged stumps, still wars and waves a few feeble boughs; another, which

seems thrown upon its back, still battling against the dust, maintains

itself on the powerful buttress of its gathered haunches; and finally,

I saw giants and princes who, massively settling upon their muscular

loins, by the reiterated efforts of their Herculean arms, continued to

hold their ground on all sides against the tumultuous enemy.

I have still to speak of the foliage.

If I compare to the pines the species of trees that flourish in fertile

earth, in rich and mellow soil, I discover these four characteristics

in them; that the proportion of leaf to wood is greater; that the leaf

is deciduous; that, flattened, it shows an obverse and reverse side;

and, finally, that the foliage, growing upon the boughs, diverging

from a common center, is arranged like a single bouquet.

The pine grows in dry and stony soil; therefore its absorption of

the elements which nourish it is less immediate, and necessitates on

its part a stronger and completer elaboration, a greater functional

activity,--and, if I may so put it, more personal. As it is limited

in its supply of water, it does not expand like a chalice. This one

that I observe divides its foliage, spreads a handful on every side.

Instead of leaves which receive the rain, these are tufts of little

tubes which reach into the surrounding dampness and absorb it. And that

is why,--independent of the seasons, sensitive to more continuous and

subtle influences,--the pine shows a perennial foliage.

Thus I explain the aerial character of its foliage, fragmentarily

suspended. As the pine lends the irregular outline of its boughs to

the lines of the harmonious landscape, better to enhance the charm

and the brilliancy of Nature, it also spreads everywhere the shadow

of its singular tufts; over the power and the glory of Ocean, blue in

the sun; over the harvest fields; and obstructing the design of the

constellations or the dawn upon the sky. It sweeps its branches beneath

azalea bushes flaming near the surface of lakes blue as gentian, or

above the steep embankments of the imperial city, close to the silver,

grass-grown waters of the canals; and the evening on which I saw Fuji

like a colossus, like a virgin throned in the clarity of the Infinite,

the dark tuft of a pine was silhouetted against the dove-colored

mountain.

THE ARCH OF GOLD IN THE FOREST

When I left Yeddo the great sun was flaming in the clear sky. Toward

the end of the afternoon, arriving at the junction of Utsonomiya, I

perceive that a shadow has darkened all the sunset. Composed of huge,

heaped-up clouds, it presents that tumultuous and chaotic aspect

that a sky sometimes shows when, like the veiled fire of footlights,

a gleaming streak on the horizon throws long shadows across the dim

fields, bringing out each object in clear relief. Drowsing on the wharf

just now, and for a long time in the train moving westward, I have

been a spectator of the decline of day and the gradual deepening of

darkness. With one glance I have caught the whole plan of the country.

In the background, deep forests and the folds of cumbrous mountains;

in the foreground, detached footpaths which bar the way, one behind

the other, like spaced and parallel barriers. Where the trenches we

follow show us a cross-section of the earth, we see first a fine mold,

black as coal; then yellow sand; and finally clay, red with sulphur or

cinnabar. Avernus spreads out before us! Does not this scorching sun,

this low sky, this surrounding harshness of volcanoes and fir-trees,

correspond to that black abyss from which the visions of dreams arise?

Indeed it was with a royal wisdom that the ancient shogun, Ieyasu,

chose this place for his disembodied spirit to enter the kingdom of

shades, and, by dissolving in silence into their shadows, transmute

death into godhead as a temple is created of a tomb.

The forest of cryptomeria is truly a temple.

Often before, at this hour of somber twilight, I had crossed the double

avenue of these giant trees,--which extends twenty leagues to conduct

from the red bridge the annual ambassador who bears Imperial presents

to this ancestral shrine,--but this morning, at the hour when the

first rays of the sun turned the banks of somber verdure above me to

rose color in the golden wind which swept them, I penetrated into the

colossal nave, deliciously filled with a resinous odor, after the cold

night.

The cryptomeria belong to the family of pines, and the Japanese have

named it sengui. It is a very tall tree, whose trunk, free of twists

and knots, maintains an inviolable rectitude. There are no branches,

but indicated here and there, as is the way with pines, not by detail

and relief but by mass and contour, the leaves float like tatters of

black smoke about the mystic pillar; and the forest of these tall

trunks, all of the same height, loses itself in the tangled canopy of

shadowy, inextricable foliage. The place is simultaneously limitless

and confined, filled and empty.

The marvelous houses are scattered among these trees that have been

parked for centuries.

I shall not describe the whole plan of the shaded city, though it is

marked on my fan to the minutest detail. In the middle of the dedicated

forest I have followed enormous avenues that a scarlet torii bars.

At a bronze basin, under a roof inlaid with the moon, I have filled

my mouth with lustral waters; I have climbed the stairs; among many

pilgrims I have passed indescribable opulence and space, the entrance

to an enclosure that is like a dream formed of a confusion of flowers

and birds; barefoot, I have penetrated to its innermost golden heart.

I have seen the priests with haughty faces,--with head-dresses of

horsehair, and clothed with ample trousers of green silk,--offer the

morning sacrifice to the sound of flute and mouth-organ. And for me the

sacred _kagura_,--his face framed in white linen, holding the tasseled

bough of the pine devoutly between his hands,--has executed the dance

which consists of continual advance and retreat.

As Chinese architecture has for its chief element the baldachin;

stories being raised as on the poles of a pastoral tent; so, in Japan,

the roofs made of tiles, or those made of a substance as powerful,

strong, and light as a thick felt, show but a slight curve; they are no

more, in their elegant power, than a cover; and all this construction

evolves from the idea of a box.

Since the time when Jingô Tennô conquered the isles of the rising sun

with his fleet, the Japanese have everywhere preserved some signs of

the sea: the habit of tucking up their clothes to the waist, these low

cabins which are their homes under an uncertain sun, the multitude

of neat little objects and their careful stowage, the absence of

furniture,--do they not all betray the confined life of the sailor on

his precarious deck? And these wooden houses are themselves nothing

more than the enlarged cabin of a galley, or the box of a palanquin.

The extensions, intersected by carpentry; the oblique shafts, of which

the figured heads jut out at four angles; still recall the quality of

being portable. Among the columns of the temple, arches seem the means

by which it may be lifted.

Houses? Yes. Here the very sanctuary is a house. They have relegated

the bones, sealed in a cylinder of bronze, to the high mountainside;

but in this room, seated on the unalterable name, the soul of the

dead continues a spectral habitation in obscure and secret splendor.

Reversing the procedure which employs wood and stone and makes them

of value without adding any strange element to their own properties,

artifice has existed here only to annihilate its material. These

enclosures, the sides of these boxes, these floors and ceilings, are no

longer made of beams and planks but of certain opaque images conjured

forth. Color decorates and adorns the wood, lacquer drowns it under

impenetrable waters, paint covers it with enchantments, sculpture

deeply undermines and transfigures it. An end of timber--the least

spike appearing on the magic surface--is covered with arabesques and

interlacing lines; but, as on screens we see trees in flower and

mountains steeped in a radiant glow, these palaces emerge entirely

golden. On the roofs, on the façades, which strike the full light of

day, only the ridges are burnished with scattered brightness; but the

sides are brightened in vast surfaces through the shadow; and inside

also, the six walls of the box are painted with the splendors of hidden

treasure, flaming brilliance revealed by numerous mirrors.

Thus the magnificent shogun does not inhabit a house of mere wood, but

his dwelling in the center of the forest is in the light of setting

suns; and ambrosial incense abides beneath these sweeping boughs.

Through the immense spaces of this region, deeply slumbering like a god

amid its sea of trees, an occasional dazzling cascade plashes between

the leaves, mingling with their ceaseless whisper.

THE PEDESTRIAN

In June, with a gnarled stick in my hand (like the god Bishamon), I am

that mysterious passer-by who crosses the path of groups of simple,

ruddy peasants; and, at six in the evening, while the storm-cloud in

the sky endlessly continues its monstrous assault on the mountain, I am

that lonely man one sees upon this abandoned road.

I am going nowhere in particular. My wanderings are without end and

without profit. The itinerary of the soldier or the merchant, the piety

of the sterile woman who, with hopeful humility, seven times makes a

tour of the holy peak,--these have nothing in common with my travels.

The footprint pointed in the usual direction does not allure my own

far enough to lead me astray; and soon, urged by the intimacy there

is in treading this moss through the heart of the woods, to pick the

black leaf of a camellia by the weeping of a secret waterfall,--I flee

suddenly, like an awkward deer. Then, amid the silence of growing

things, poised on one foot, I await the echo. How fresh and comic the

song of this little bird seems to me! And how the cry of the rooks

below delights me! Each tree has its personality, each little beast

his part, each voice its place in the symphony; as they say music is

comprehended, so I comprehend Nature.

It is like a story of many details, where only the proper names are

given. As my walk--and the day--proceeds, I advance also in the

development of a philosophy. Already I have discovered with delight

that all things exist in a certain accord; and, though believing

this secret relationship, by which the blackness of this pine below

espouses the clear green of these maples, it is my purified sight only

which establishes it; so, because of this restoration of the original

design, I call my visit a Revision. I am the Inspector of Creation,

the Verifier of all present things. The reality of this world is the

cause of my beatitude. In ordinary hours we employ things for their

usefulness, forgetting their purer value: that they should exist at

all. But when, after a long effort, pushing through branches and

briars, I place my hand on the burning shoulder of this heavy rock in

the heart of a glade, the entry of Alexander into Jerusalem is alone

comparable to the sublimity of my achievement.

And I go on and on! Each one of us contains in himself the autonomous

power of motion by which he moves toward his food and his work. As for

me, the even motion of my legs serves to measure for me the intensity

of more subtle appeals. The allurement of everything! I feel it in the

silence of my soul. I understand the harmony of the world. When shall I

surprise its melody?

HERE AND THERE

In the street called Nihon Bashi, near the merchants of books and

lanterns, of embroideries and bronzes, miniature gardens are sold;

and, as a studious idler amid this fantastic display, I mentally

compare these little fragments of the world. The artists have subtly

shown themselves masters of the exquisite laws by which the lines of a

landscape are composed, like those of a physiognomy. Instead of drawing

nature they reproduce it, constructing their counterfeits from the very

elements of the original, which they borrow--as a rule is illustrated

by an example. These images are usually exact and perfect replicas.

All sorts and kinds of pines, for instance, are offered me to choose

from; and their position in the jar, with their height as a scale,

proportionately shows the dimensions of their original territory. Here

is a rice-field in Springtime; in the distance is a hill fringed with

trees (they are made of moss). Here is the sea, with its archipelago

and its capes! By the artifice of two stones, one black, one red, and

rather worn and porous, they have represented two islands that appear

to be joined together, whose difference in distance is shown only by

their different colors, apparently due to the light of the setting sun.

And even the many-colored sunset is represented by this bed of motley

pebbles covered with the contents of two carafes.

Now, to amplify my thought!

The European artist copies nature according to the sentiment that

he has for it. The Japanese imitates it according to the materials

with which it furnishes him. One expresses himself, the other

expresses nature. One creates, the other mimics. One paints, the other

constructs. One is a student; the other, in a way, a master. One

reproduces in its detail the spectacle that he surveys with a searching

and subtle gaze; the other disengages its law with a flash of the

eye, in the freedom of his fancy; and applies it with a scriptural

conciseness.

Here the first inspiration of the artist is the material on which

he exercises his hand. Good-humoredly, he consults its intrinsic

properties, its tints; and, appropriating the soul of the brute thing,

he constitutes himself its interpreter. Of all the things that he might

say, he expresses only the essential and significant characteristics;

and, merely making a few shy indications here and there, leaves to the

paper the task of concealing all those infinite complexities which

are implied freely because they are taken for granted. It is a frolic

of certitude, it is caprice with restraint; and the underlying idea,

snared by such a method of argument, imposes itself upon us with an

insidious conviction.

Now, first of all, to speak of Color! We note that the Japanese

artist has reduced his palette to a limited number of general and

predetermined tones. He understands that the beauty of a color

resides less in its intrinsic quality than in its implicit accord

with contrasted tones. And because of the unmodified blending of two

values laid on in equal quantities, he repairs the omission of the many

intermediate shades by the vivacity that he gives to the juxtaposition

of the essential notes; calmly indicating one repetition or two. He

knows that the value of a tone results more from its position than

from its intensity; master of keys, he transposes them as he will.

Furthermore, as color is nothing less than the particular homage that

all visible things render to the universal light, everything fitly

takes its place within the frame through the power of color, in accord

with the theme that the artist has chosen.

But now the roving eye remains fixed; and, instead of contemplating,

it interrogates. Color is the passion of matter; it signalizes the

participation of each object in the common source of glory. Design

expresses the energy proper to each being; his action, his rhythm,

his postures. The one makes manifest his relations to space, the

other fixes his movement in time. One gives the form, the other gives

the sense. And as the Japanese, careless of relief, paints only by

contour and mass, the chief characteristic of his design is a schematic

stroke. While the tones are in contrast, the lines are in unity; and

while the painting is a harmony, the design is an idea; and if the

interpretation of this idea comes in a flash of recognition, complete

and instantaneous, the design has a satisfactory abstract significance

and expresses the idea in all its purity, just as well as might a word

made of letters. Each form, each movement, each group furnishes its

hieroglyph.

I understand this when I revel among these bundles of Japanese prints.

At Shidzuoka, among the ex-votos of the temple, I have seen many

admirable examples of this art. A warrior leaps from the vermilion

wood like a frantic exclamation. This prancing or kicking thing is no

longer the picture of a horse, but the symbol of his revolt against

bondage; a sort of reversed figure 6, equipped with a mane and tail,

represents his repose in the grass. Embraces, battles, landscapes,

crowds, fitted into a small space, resemble the designs on seals. This

man bursts into laughter; and, falling, he no longer seems a man, but

immediately becomes his own character in writing.

With horrible and careless crudity, the French or English construct

barbarous barracks; pitiless toward the earth they disfigure, concerned

only with their expansion, seizing upon all possible space with their

eyes, if not with their hands. They exploit a view as they would a

waterfall. The Oriental knows enough to flee from vast landscapes,

where multifold aspects and divergent lines do not lend themselves

to that exquisite co-ordination between the eye and the view which

alone makes a sojourn possible for him. His home is not open to all

the winds. Choosing a retreat in some peaceful valley, his care is

to achieve a perfect location where his view composes so harmonious

a landscape that it is impossible to imagine seeing it otherwise.

His eyes furnish him with all the elements of happiness, and he

replaces furniture with open windows. Inside, the art of the painter,

ingeniously tracing his visions upon a fictitiously transparent window,

multiplies the imaginary openings. In the ancient imperial palace that

I visited, its magnificent and movable treasures had been carried away,

and there remained only the pictorial decorations arranged in a black

room,--the familiar visions of its august inhabitant.

The paper dwelling is composed of successive apartments, divided by

partitions which slide on moldings. A single theme of decoration has

been chosen for each of the series, and it is introduced by screens

similar to the wings of a theater. I can prolong or shorten my

contemplation at will. I am less the spectator of the painter than his

host; each subject is expressed by a choice in harmony with the tone

of the paper, a color representing the opposite end of the gamut. It

is so at Gosho. An indigo and cream motif suffices for the room called

“Freshness and Purity,” seeming all filled with sky and water. But at

Nijo the imperial habitation is done in gold alone. Emerging from the

matting-covered rafters, painted life-size, crowns of the pine-tree

extend their grotesque boughs along the sunlit walls. The Prince, upon

his seat, saw only great bands of tawny fire; and his sensation was of

floating on the evening sky with awful sunset fires beneath him.

At Shidzuoka, at the time of Rinzainji, I saw a landscape made of

colored dust. They had put it under glass, for fear that a breath would

blow it away.

Before the golden Buddha in the leaves, time is measured by the burning

of a little candle; and in the depth of this ravine, by the dripping of

a triple fountain.

Swept away, overthrown in the chaos and turmoil of the incomprehensible

sea, lost in the churning abyss, mortal man with all his strength

clutches at something that may prove solid in his grasp. That is why he

accords the permanence of wood, metal, or stone to the human figure,

and makes it the object of his devotion and his prayer. Besides their

common names, he gives proper names to the forces of nature; and, by

means of a concrete image which symbolizes them like a syllable, still

mysteriously conscious in his abasement of the superior authority of

the Word, he calls upon it in his necessities. Thus, like a child who

constructs the history of his doll from everything around him, humanity

in its memories unites all that it discovers with all that it dreams,

and so composes the romance of mythology.

Here beside me is this poor little old woman, who makes her salutation

by striking her hands carefully together before a colossal female

statue, in whose bosom an ancient prince, when led by a toothache and a

dream to honor the skull of an ancestor, inserted the worn sphere after

finding it wedged by the jawbone in the roots of a willow. At my right

and at my left, all the length of the dark cavern, the three thousand

golden Kwannon, each one resembling the others in the embellishment of

arms that frame it, are aligned in rows of a hundred, in ranks fifteen

deep. A ray of sunlight flickers over this barrier built of goddesses.

Seeking the reason for uniformity in this multitude, and from what bulb

all these identical stalks have sprung, I find that the worshiper here

doubtless wishes a wider sounding-board for his prayers, and imagines

that in multiplying the object of his entreaty he increases its

efficacy.

But not for long did the sages rest their eyes on the eyes of these

crude likenesses. Having perceived the unity of all things, they found

the basis of their philosophy in that fact. Though each individual

were transitory and capricious, the richness of the common fund

remained inexhaustible. No need that Man should apply his hatchet to

the tree, or his cleaver to the rock; in the grain of millet and the

egg, alike in the immobility and the convulsions of sun and sea, he

found the same principle of plastic energy; and the earth sufficed for

the construction of its own idols. Further, admitting that the whole

is formed of homogeneous parts; if, to better pursue their analysis,

the Sages turned it back upon themselves, they discovered that the

fugitive, blameworthy, unjustifiable thing in them was the fact of

their presence in the world,--and that the element in them which was

free of space and limitless of duration was the very conception they

had formed of this contingent character.

The East I know · 第 5 / 8 段