DISCOVERY OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
1513.
DEPARTURE OF VASCO NUÑEZ FROM ANTIGUA—CARETA'S
WELCOME—DIFFICULTIES TO BE ENCOUNTERED—TREACHEROUS CHARACTER
OF THE COUNTRY—HISTORICAL BLOODHOUNDS—PONCA RECONCILED—CAPTURE
OF QUAREQUÁ—FIRST VIEW OF THE PACIFIC FROM THE HEIGHTS
OF QUAREQUÁ—THE SPANIARDS DESCEND TO CHIAPES—TAKE FORMAL
POSSESSION OF THE SOUTH SEA—FORM OF TAKING POSSESSION—THE
NAMES SOUTH SEA AND PACIFIC OCEAN—FURTHER DISCOVERIES—PERILOUS
CANOE VOYAGE—GOLD AND PEARLS IN PROFUSION—TUMACO
PACIFIED—THE PEARL ISLANDS—THE RETURN—TEOCA'S KINDNESS—PONCA
MURDERED—POCOROSA PACIFIED—TUBANAMÁ VANQUISHED—GOLD, GOLD,
GOLD—PANCIACO'S CONGRATULATIONS—ARRIVAL AT ANTIGUA.
Revolving matters in his mind, plans quickly unfolded. Winning for the
project a few staunch friends, Vasco Nuñez selected with great care one
hundred and ninety men.[IX-1] More could have been taken, but he had
determined on a rapid march of discovery rather than pacification and
occupation. Hence he preferred only tried men, those inured to fatigue,
men resolute and reckless, with heart and head hard, and sinews of
steel. He also provided from among his captives and the neighboring
nations one thousand natives, to serve as warriors and beasts of burden.
These, might live or die, as it should happen: no great matter what
became of them. A pack of bloodhounds completed the company.
[Sidenote: EMBARKATION OF THE EXPEDITION.]
The men were armed with crossbows, swords, arquebuses and targets, and
provisions for the expedition were placed on board a brigantine and ten
large canoes. Before embarking, the hazardous nature of the enterprise
was made known to the soldiers. Wealth and glory awaited success; the
reward of failure, death; opportunity was then offered for any one to
withdraw without prejudice or injury.
Sailing with his little armament from Antigua on the first day of
September, 1513, Vasco Nuñez de Balboa followed the coast of Darien
north-westward to Careta's province, where the expedition disembarked
on the fourth day. The chieftain's dusky daughter, whom the governor
continued to regard with great affection, was still a bond of friendship
between this nation and the Spaniards. Careta added to their stock of
provisions and furnished them with guides; and some of his warriors
joined the expedition, in the hope of witnessing the downfall of their
enemies beyond the mountains. The boats were left in charge of a guard;
and after invoking divine favor the expedition was ready to move.
* * * * *
I know the tendency of the historian, warmed by his theme, to magnify
merit, and the obstacles it overcomes; and I have elsewhere said as
much. While I endeavor to confine myself to the plain words of a simple
story, those who have sat at ease, sipping iced champagne, during a
delightful ride of three or four hours across this sometime terrible
neck, may find in this chapter expressions appearing strong. But I
do assure the reader that it is difficult to magnify in the present
instance. Vasco Nuñez now stood on the northern coast, opposite the
gulf of San Miguel, which, breaking the shore of Panamá Bay, narrows
the isthmus of Darien to a width of fifty miles.[IX-2] But such is
the infamous character of the country, that even modern efforts to
penetrate the unexplored interior from either side have met disaster
and ruin.[IX-3] Inaccessible forests filled with noxious reptiles and
wild beasts, tangled jungles through which man must cut his way foot
by foot; rugged mountains, slippery slopes, and rocky precipices, over
and round which the weary traveller threads his way under a blooming
tropical canopy; frequent and sudden rains and inundations; treacherous
morasses, and the malarious exhalations from putrid vegetation, unite
with warlike savages to render this spot one of the most difficult on
the globe to explore. Add to these obstructions the weight of heavy
armor and cumbrous weapons, and some conception may be formed of a
military march through an equatorial wilderness.
[Sidenote: QUALITY OF THE BAND.]
No wonder Vasco Nuñez scrutinized his company before starting. "I beg
your very royal Highness," he had written before this to the king,
"to give me men from Española; for such as come from Castile are
for my purpose worthless, bringing loss not only on themselves but
others."[IX-4] Born amidst the clash of arms in chivalrous Spain, broken
to adversity at Española, and many of them toughened at Santa Marta,
Veragua, and Antigua, the present band mustered the survivors of daring
expeditions whose bones strewed the shores of Tierra Firme.
[Illustration]
The Spaniards began their march on the 6th of September. The second
day brought them to the lands of Ponca, who having been warned of their
approach had retired from the path.[IX-5] But other thoughts than those
of plunder and petty warfare now filled the mind of Vasco Nuñez; and,
preferring to leave no enemy in his rear, while resting in the cacique's
comfortable quarters he made overtures of friendship to the chief,
who straightway returned from his hiding, and gave gold, together with
valuable information concerning the southern sea and the route thither
in return for beads, mirrors, hawk-bells, and axes. For none knew better
than the courteous governor how to kindle friendship in the savage
breast, and make it profitable. The gold which Ponca gave consisted of
finely wrought ornaments from beyond the mountains, and ten pounds of
the metal from his own mines. He described a certain summit from which
this southern sea might easily be seen, gave information of the nations
to be encountered by the Spaniards, and furnished them with guides for
the secret passes.
Roused by this encouragement, and leaving here the sick and wayworn,
the Spaniards were on their southward march again the 20th of September.
Between the several provinces were no beaten paths, across the rivers no
bridges; so great were the impediments to their progress, and so much
more time was consumed than had been anticipated, that food began to
fail.
Making their way amid these difficulties, they came to the foot of the
high mountains where terminated their pacified territory, and where they
must prepare to dispute the way with native sovereigns of the soil.
Ascending the mountains, they encountered on the 24th a cacique named
Porque, lord of the province of Quarequá, the ruler of these parts,
whose arrogance, fed by his successes, had kept full pace with them. At
the head of a thousand warriors, Porque appeared before Vasco Nuñez,
demanded the object of his visit, and threatened to kill every man
who should put foot within his dominions. The Spaniards nevertheless
continued slowly to advance, keeping well together. Amazed at their
temerity, and indignant at the seeming indifference to his threat,
Porque swept down upon them with flourish of weapons and terrific
yells, confident of easy victory. But as well might he have spent his
unleavened force against the eternal hills.
Waiting until the whole swarm was well within reach, Vasco Nuñez gave
the order to charge. Shouting the inspiriting war-cry, Santiago, y á
ellos! the Spaniards sprang upon them. The fire-arms were discharged,
the bloodhounds[IX-6] let loose, and striking the cruel steel into the
naked bodies of the enemy, he was literally hewn in pieces. Vainly, in
wild confusion, the savages struggled to escape; the flash of fire, the
thundering noise, the sulphurous smoke, bereft them of their senses,
making easy work for the sharp iron which entered unresisted their
vitals, until six hundred lay dead upon the ground, Porque among the
number. Many prisoners were taken; the survivors escaped to the hills.
In the village of Quarequá was found much needed food, and some gold.
So toilsome had been the march that eighteen days had passed since
leaving Careta's town. And here Vasco Nuñez rested for the night,
nursing his wounded, and cheering the sick and down-hearted. The guides
whom Ponca had furnished, and who had proved of incalculable service
to the explorers, were dismissed to their home with presents, and with
hearts made glad by the destruction of Porque. So rolls round the planet
inexorable nature, detested death giving hourly joy to universal life.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: FIRST VIEW OF THE SOUTH SEA.]
The 25th[IX-7] of September, 1513, a day ever memorable in the annals
of the Pacific States, dawned brightly over the sierra of Quarequá. The
village in which the Spaniards had made their quarters was situated on
an elevated plateau, and near it rose the reputed mountain whose summit
had for ages gazed on the mysterious southern sea. At an early hour
Vasco Nuñez was astir, to prepare with thrilling anticipations for the
ascent. But sixty-seven, out of the one hundred and ninety Spaniards who
within the month had embarked upon this enterprise at Antigua, possessed
sufficient strength for the present effort. Departing from the town,
their way at first lay through a tangled forest, which fringed the
mountain base, and whose dense foliage hid from view the more distant
objects. As they mounted upward into a cooler, drier atmosphere, the
vegetation became more stunted, yet the undergrowth was still so thick
that the soldiers had to cut a passage with their sabres. Emerging at
length into an open space near the summit, a bare eminence was pointed
out by the guides, whence the view was said to be unobstructed, and the
sea distinctly visible.
Viewed prosaically, there was nothing astounding in ascending a hill
and taking a look at the ocean. It had been often done elsewhere; it
had been often done here. Nor was there any peculiar difference between
sea and land here and sea and land elsewhere. But there was that to the
minds of the impetuous and impressible Spaniards, there is that to our
own minds, in first things and first views of things, our first view,
our country's first awakening, that stirs the soul and sets faster
beating the heart. Reduced to words, the sentiment is the pleasure the
mind derives from improving surprises; it is the joy of development,
the ecstasy of evolution.
If such be commonly the case, how much more reason had Vasco Nuñez de
Balboa to be impassioned on this occasion. Behind him was ignominy,
perhaps chains and death; before him was glory, immortal fame. And it
was meet in him that this ordinarily trivial act should be consummated
with a ceremony becoming to one of civilization's great achievements.
Ordering a halt, Vasco Nuñez advanced alone. His should be the first
European eye to behold what there was to behold, and that without
peradventure. With throbbing heart he mounted the topmost eminence
which crowned these sea-dividing hills. Then, as in the lifting of a
veil, a scene of primeval splendor burst on his enraptured gaze, such
as might fill with joy an archangel sent to explore a new creation.
There it lay, that boundless unknown sea, spread out before him, far as
the eye could reach, in calm, majestic beauty, glittering like liquid
crystal in the morning sun. Beneath his feet, in furrowed prospect,
were terraces of living green, sportive with iridescent light and shade;
waving plains and feathered steeps white-lined with flowing waters, here
dashing boisterously down the hill-side, yonder winding silent through
the sighing foliage to the all-receiving sea. In that first illimitable
glance time stood back, the mists lifted, and eternity was there. What
wonder if to this Spanish cavalier, in that moment of triumphant joy,
visions of the mighty future appeared pictured on the cerulean heights,
visions of populous cities, of fleets and armies, of lands teeming
with wealth and industry. And to Spain should all these blessings and
advantages accrue; to Spain through him.
[Sidenote: SPEECH OF VASCO NUÑEZ.]
Dropping on his knees, he poured forth praise and thanksgiving to the
author of that glorious creation for the honor of its discovery. The
soldiers then pressed forward, gazed enchanted likewise, and likewise
assumed the attitude of prayer; for however ungodly were their lives,
these cavaliers were always fond of praying.
"There, my friends," exclaimed Balboa, rising and pointing to the
prospect before him, "there is the realization of your hopes, the reward
of your labors. You are the first Christians to look upon that sea,
or to tread its luxuriant shores. The words of the chivalrous Panciaco
concerning the Southern Sea are more than verified; please God so may
we find them regarding the riches of its shore. All are yours, I say,
yours the glory of laying this celestial realm at your sovereign's
feet; yours the privilege of bringing to the only vile thing in it the
cleansing properties of our holy faith. Continue, then, true to me,
and I promise you honor and wealth to your fullest desire." A shout
of approbation, such as the rabble are ever ready with before success,
was followed by pledges of fidelity and fair service, to be broken upon
the first occasion. And if we may believe old Peter Martyr, who enjoyed
this triumph of progress almost as much as the discoverers themselves,
Hannibal from the summit of the Alps, pointing to his soldiers the
delicious fields of Italy, displayed no grander conception of his
high achievements, past and future, than did Balboa at this moment.
A cross was erected, round which stones were heaped; the trees were
blazoned with the sovereign's name; the Te Deum laudamus and Te Dominum
confitemur was solemnly chanted by the company; after which Balboa in a
loud voice called on all present to witness that he then and thereby,
for and in the name of the sovereigns of Spain, took possession of
this Southern Sea, with all its islands and firm lands, and all shores
washed by its waters. The notary was ordered to draw up a certificate
in accordance, to which each present affixed his name.[IX-8]
Because the strangers seemed to delight in it, the savages assisted in
the cross-raising and in carrying stones, though they saw nothing in
the surroundings to become so excited about. Meanwhile the Spaniards
wondered how far the water extended, what nations inhabited its borders,
what the commerce and religion of those nations, and what would be the
effect of the discovery on Spain, on the world, on their own fortunes.
[Sidenote: CHIAPES AND THE SPANIARDS.]
Descending the mountains on its seaward side they were met by a
cacique, called like his province, Chiapes, who ordered them back
if they sought not death. The policy of Vasco Nuñez here was peace.
Hostile entanglements at this juncture he knew would sooner or later
result in the destruction of his party. It must be a peace, however,
based on fear and respect, seldom to be achieved among savages except
by slaughter. Overtures of friendship were accordingly instituted
by a sudden and vigorous onslaught with fire-arms, cross-bows, and
bloodhounds, during which Chiapes took to his heels, midst thunder,
smoke, and consternation; in consequence of which he was all the more
happy when the men of Quarequá sought him out, and told him that these
supernatural visitors who held the elements at their command were easily
propitiated with gold. Tremblingly he appeared and laid at the feet of
Vasco Nuñez five hundred pounds of the metal, glad that the favor of the
gods might be bought so cheaply. The Quarequá guides were now dismissed
with presents, and by them orders were sent the Spaniards resting at
their town to follow the advance party.
The object of Vasco Nuñez was to approach the verge of the ocean
and touch the water he had seen. For this purpose he despatched, in
different directions, three parties of twelve men each, under Francisco
Pizarro, Alonso Martin de Don Benito, and Juan de Escaray to search
an opening to the seaside through the dense foliage that concealed it.
It is not a little singular that two days should elapse, and that the
explorers suffered severely for want of water before any one could find
the beach, though they were all the time so near it. Alonso Martin's
party came first to an inlet, on the shore of which were two canoes,
the open bay being still hidden. Desirous of being first in something,
however small, Martin sprang into one of the boats which was barely
floating on the incoming tide, and cried to his companions, who had
thrown themselves down under the cooling leaves—"I call on you all to
witness that I am the first Spaniard to sail upon these waters." "And
I the second," exclaimed another, rushing for the other boat.[IX-9]
Returning to Chiapes, Martin reported to Vasco Nuñez, who immediately
began preparations to take more formal possession of the Southern Sea.
[Sidenote: TAKING POSSESSION.]
On the 29th of September, St Michael's day, Vasco Nuñez with twenty-six
men set out for the border of the sea, accompanied by Chiapes with
a numerous train. Arriving there they found the tide out, and seated
themselves upon a grassy slope beneath the overhanging foliage, waiting
the return of the waters. Presently, when the sand was covered to the
depth of one or two feet, all arose, and Vasco Nuñez, armed and armored
cap-a-pie, drew his sword and, taking from the hand of an attendant
a banner, on one side of which were pictured the virgin and child and
on the other the arms of Castile and Leon, marched into the water, and
waving aloft his banner cried in a loud voice: "Long live the high and
powerful monarchs Don Fernando and Doña Juana, sovereigns of Castile,
and of Leon, and of Aragon, in whose name, and for the royal crown
of Castile, I take and seize real and corporeal actual possession of
these seas and lands, and coasts and ports and islands of the south,
with all thereto annexed; and kingdoms and provinces which belong to
them, or which may hereafter belong to them, in whatever manner and
by whatever right and title acquired, now existing or which may exist,
ancient and modern, in times past and present and to come, without any
contradiction. And if any other prince or captain, christian or infidel,
of whatever law or sect or condition he may be, pretends any right to
these lands and seas, I am ready and prepared to contradict him, and
to defend them in the names of the present and future sovereigns of
Castile, who are the lords paramount in these Indies, islands and firm
land, northern and southern, with their seas, as well in the arctic
pole as in the antarctic, on either side of the equinoctial line, within
or without the tropics of cancer and capricorn, according to what more
completely to their majesties and their successors belongs and is due,
for the whole and any part thereof; as I protest in writing shall or may
be more fully specified and alleged on behalf of their royal patrimony;
now and in all time while the earth revolves, and until the universal
judgment of all mankind."[IX-10] To which grandiloquent harangue there
came no reply; no armed Poseidon appeared to dispute possession; only
the mighty ocean dashed from its face the blinding glare of this new
doctrine, heaved its bosom in long glassy swells, and gently growled
its perplexity to the sympathizing beach.
[Sidenote: THE NAME PACIFIC OCEAN.]
The followers of Vasco Nuñez, however, even if all did not comprehend
better than the sea what their leader had said, swore with loud
acclamations to defend the claim of the sovereign who would thereby
have so much more land to bestow, and to follow their gallant leader
to the riches and honor he had so freely promised them. Andrés de
Valderrábano, the notary of the expedition, was then called upon to draw
up a certificate of the act of taking possession, to which all present
subscribed their names. This being the day of St Michael,[IX-11] the
archangel, the gulf before them was called El golfo de San Miguel, which
name it bears to this day. Tasting the water they found it salt, which
proved it a true ocean sea that they had found; then they cut crosses
on the trees in honor of the holy trinity, and with longings satisfied
and hearts singing their high hopes, the party returned to Chiapes,
richer, according to their pretensions, by one Pacific Ocean,[IX-12]
ten thousand islands, and twenty-five hundred leagues of continental
seaboard.
The grand event being so happily consummated, the Spaniards thought
that, before returning to Antigua, they might indulge in a little
exploration. Luckily the powerful Chiapes was not only their friend,
but he could furnish them a goodly list of enemies having an abundance
of gold and pearls. Under his direction they crossed a large river,
fell upon a chieftain called Cocura, and returned to Chiapes with six
hundred and fifty pesos. Then they decided to explore an arm of the
gulf, which involved a short but dangerous canoe voyage. In vain Chiapes
protested against the project. "Our God will protect us," replied the
devout Vasco Nuñez, as with eighty Spaniards, and a dusky band under
Chiapes, he stepped into the canoes, the 17th of October. Soon they
found themselves in a sea so tempestuous that they were glad to escape
upon an island whose uncertain soil threatened every moment to dissolve
beneath their feet. There they remained up to their waists in water all
that night. Fortunately before morning the waters of the gulf subsided,
else the discoverers of the Pacific Ocean never would have returned
to tell their tale. Daybreak presented a dismal spectacle. Some of the
canoes were split, others embedded in the sand; and all the provisions
and clothing had been swept away. But to such hardships these men were
inured. Since leaving Spain they had lived chiefly on maize bread,
wild herbs, fruit, roots, sometimes fish, seldom meat. This was their
best diet. In times of scarcity, which were frequent, they were glad
to get reptiles, insects, or anything that would sustain life. They
had no salt; and their only drink was river water, frequently putrid
and unwholesome. Yet while life lasted, the brain worked inexhaustible
resources. In the present emergency, for example, when both sea and land
proved treacherous, they by no means yielded to despair. Stripping the
glutinous bark from certain young trees which they found, they bruised
it with stones, added to it fibrous sea-plants reduced in like manner,
and, after binding their broken boats firmly with cords, they calked the
seams with the mixture. Again they committed themselves to the mercy of
the sea, and after two days of hazardous navigation, half naked and half
starved, they ran into a small creek which flowed through a province
called Chitarraga, and landed about midnight near an Indian village
governed by a cacique named Tumaco.[IX-13]
[Sidenote: PEARL GATHERING.]
Carrying the village, though not without resistance, Vasco Nuñez, as
usual, sought the friendship of the fleeing Tumaco, who was induced to
return, bringing gold valued at six hundred and fourteen pesos, and a
basin of pearls, two hundred and forty of which were of extraordinary
size. This was indeed something worthy of an oriental India, thought
the Spaniards, as their hearts danced enraptured over the beautiful
baubles. Tumaco could not understand what power his gift possessed that
it should so charm these heavenly strangers. To him the oyster which he
could eat was seemingly worth more than the pearl which he could not
eat; for in roasting the bivalve he had spoilt pearls enough to make
him rich in the eyes of any potentate in Christendom. When once he knew
that pearls were wealth, Tumaco became eager to show the Spaniards how
much he had at his command, and set his men to fish; and in four days
they returned with twelve marks' weight, or ninety-six ounces of pearls.
Six Spaniards accompanied them to see whence came the gems, and they
showed the natives how to open oysters without heat, which discolored
the pearl. Likewise gold hereabout was plentiful and lightly esteemed.
* * * * *
Vasco Nuñez endeavored to gain all the information possible concerning
the nature and extent of the sea-coast. He was told by Tumaco that the
ocean and the mainland extended southward without end; that far distant
in that direction dwelt a great nation whose riches were immense, who
navigated the ocean in ships, and employed beasts of burden. In order
the better to describe these animals, Tumaco moulded in clay a figure of
the llama, which seemed to the eyes of the Spaniards a species of camel.
"And this," says Herrera, "was the second intimation Vasco Nuñez had of
Peru, and of its wealth." Nor did Francisco Pizarro, who was present,
fail to hold these things in remembrance.
Balboa now felt his mission accomplished. Had the new sea and its border
been made for him it could not have pleased him better. Columbus had
found a new continent; he had found a new sea; and wealth on this south
side seemed illimitable. But before returning he deemed it prudent to
supplement his deed of possession by the enactment of that ceremonial on
the shore of the main ocean, for his exploits had hitherto been confined
to the gulf of San Miguel. Applying to Tumaco for the requisite means,
an immense canoe was produced, the barge of state, with oarsmen, and
oars inlaid with _aljófar_, an inferior kind of pearl; and Vasco Nuñez
called on the notary to write it down, that boats on this Southern Sea
were propelled by oars inlaid with pearl, so that his sovereigns might
thereby place a greater value on it and on his own great services.
In pursuance of this plan, on the 29th of October, the Spaniards
embarked in Tumaco's barge, and, proceeding to the shore of the main
ocean, landed near an island called by the natives Crucraga, but to
which Vasco Nuñez gave the name of San Simon. Here with banner and
buckler, with drawn sword and high-sounding declamation, and amidst
the lordly waves which had rolled their unimpeded course from far
beyond the ever lifting horizon, the vaunting cavalier again affirmed
ownership, swearing to defend he knew not what against he knew not whom;
but "herein," according to Herrera, "he used all the formalities that
could be imagined, for he was brave, subtle, diligent, and of a generous
temper, a commander fit for mighty enterprises."
As they were about to depart, the men of Chitarraga directed the
attention of Balboa to a group of small low islands rising from the sea
five leagues distant. A powerful chieftain governed there, who, crossing
to the mainland, made fearful havoc among the seaboard villages; and
would the Spaniards please go and kill him, for at the largest island,
Toe, were the most beautiful pearls in all that region. The Spaniards
would go there or elsewhere for pearls and gold if they only had the
time, and a favorable sea, but Vasco Nuñez would not permit himself to
be led away into further fascinations on this visit. He nevertheless
gave names to the islands, calling the largest Isla Rica, and the
group Islas de las Perlas,[IX-14] or Pearl Islands, assuring Tumaco,
meanwhile, that he would return some day and avenge him his injuries.
[Sidenote: THE RETURN.]
Once more back at Chitarraga, Vasco Nuñez made ready his departure
for Antigua. He proposed to cross the mountains by a different route
from that by which he came. The sick and disabled he would leave with
Chiapes, now the firm friend of the Spaniards, who were to kill his
enemies and not him. This chieftain and a son of Tumaco asked permission
to accompany the party as far as Teaochoan, an adjoining province.
Accordingly, on the 3d of November, they embarked in canoes, and guided
by the young cacique of Chitarraga, proceeded to the upper end of the
gulf and entered a large river,[IX-15] so inconstant as to overflow its
banks in places, narrowing elsewhere between rocky confines, and rushing
forward tumultuously under the overhanging foliage to the sea. By and
by the youthful chieftain brought the boats to land. Disembarking, the
Spaniards pacified the province in their usual way, the ruler, Teoca,
chief of Teaochoan, being glad to save his life by paying one hundred
and sixty ounces of gold and two hundred large pearls. Indeed, so
effectually had Vasco Nuñez succeeded, by a judicious use of fire-arms
and fair words, and some trifling presents, in winning the affections
of the South Sea savages, that in taking leave of Chiapes and the
Chitarraga youth at Teoca's town, they wept. It was indeed affecting;
and soon Teoca, although the last to be robbed, caught himself paying
the strangers the same briny tribute of his esteem.
After three days of rest the party proceeded, and reaching the base
of the mountains they began to scale them. A supply of dried fish
and maize, with men of burden and guides, had been secured, and they
were accompanied by Teoca's son, who had instructions to attend to
all requirements of the strangers, and not to leave them without the
permission of their commander. It was well for the company that they
had a leader thoughtful and efficient; that instead of zealous guides,
and willing men to bear the burdens, there were not lurking foes or
treacherous friends with whom to deal—not one of them otherwise would
have reached Antigua. For, toiling up the steep ascent under a burning
sun, they soon found themselves without water, the springs upon which
they had depended having failed. One by one the men yielded their
strength and threw themselves upon the ground, victims of despair.
Teoca's son assisted and encouraged them, and finally brought them
all in safety to a cool, sequestered valley where were life-restoring
waters.
[Sidenote: INFAMOUS ACT OF BALBOA.]
Was it their way of giving thanks for the late escape from death, now
to plan the death of others? While resting in the refreshing shade,
Balboa asked his guide about a certain Poncra, a hideous despot,
as rich as he was repulsive, of whom he had heard much. "We are now
within his lands," the young chief replied. "Over the brow of yonder
hill is situated his village." Then was detailed a story of this man's
wickedness which sent a thrill of pleasing horror to the heart of every
Spaniard present. Instantly all was excitement; and those so lately the
readiest to faint were now the readiest to fight. Marching forward they
entered the village only to find the vulture flown. Finely wrought gold
to the value of three thousand pesos was found there to reconcile them
to his absence. Scouts soon discovered his retreat, however, and partly
by threats and partly by promises of safety, this lump of deformity was
induced to give himself up with three of his principal men. No sooner
was it known that the hated Poncra was prisoner in the hands of the
Spaniards, than the neighboring chieftains flocked in and begged his
extermination. "Whence came your gold?" demanded Balboa of the unhappy
man. "I know not," replied Poncra. "My forefathers left it me. We place
no value on the unwrought metal." Although torture was applied, nothing
further could be elicited. The bystanders clamored loudly for his death,
charging him with infamous crimes, revolting to humanity. In an evil
moment Vasco Nuñez yielded. The bloodhounds were let loose, and loud
acclamations rent the air as the quivering flesh was torn from the limbs
of the four unfortunate wretches, and they were made, as Ogilby says,
"a Breakfast to the Spanish Doggs." Vasco Nuñez de Balboa gained the
approval of the crowd; but throughout all time, wherever the name of the
illustrious discoverer of the Southern Sea is spoken, this infamous act
of treachery shall stain it. The praises of the savages, however, were
profuse; "and there he remained thirty days," says Gomara, "receiving
and ruling like a king." And very prettily Balboa commemorates his
outrage by calling the place Todos Los Santos.
While resting here, the Spaniards were joined by the comrades who had
been left at Chiapes. Throughout all this region the strangers were
treated as invincible and superhuman. Passing through the domain of a
chief named Bononiama, they were not only received as friends, coming as
they did from Chiapes, but were presented with gold to the value of two
thousand pesos, and the chief accompanied them to Poncra's village, that
he might behold the wonderful leader of these wonderful men. Poncra's
successor came forward in answer to overtures of peace; and on the first
of December the Spaniards continued their journey, weighted down with
spoils. Five days brought them to a small depopulated town whose chief,
Buquebuca, had fled because he had not the means, he said, fitly to
entertain such illustrious visitors. He was permitted to purchase their
favor by delivering up the gold in his possession, including some finely
wrought plates.
[Sidenote: BALBOA AMONG THE CACIQUES.]
Following a path northward from Buquebuca's they were hailed from a
cliff near by. "Our King Chioriso sends greeting, O mighty men! and
presents this offering, begging your assistance in vanquishing an enemy
too powerful for him." The gift was certainly persuasive, being no less
than thirty large gold medals or plates worth fourteen thousand pesos.
Balboa scarcely knew what to do, nevertheless he graciously received
it, and sent in return three axes, some gilt beads, and several pieces
of leather and cloth, making the recipient to his own thinking the
richest potentate in savagedom. Balboa furthermore promised to assist
him at some future time in his wars. The country through which they were
now passing was exceptionally rugged, and the men of burden were quite
exhausted when on the 13th of December they arrived at the village of
Pocorosa. Several of the soldiers had also fallen seriously ill from
fatigue, and it was accordingly decided to tarry here for thirty days.
The chief, as usual, had fled at their approach, but was brought back
to purchase friendship of the Spaniards with slaves and gold.
Pocorosa informed the Spaniards that not far from there[IX-16] lived
the famous Tubanamá, of whom Panciaco had spoken when first directing
the attention of the Spaniards to the South Sea. He was reputed the
richest as well as the strongest chieftain of these mountains, and was
the terror of the neighboring nations. Balboa felt it more than ever
his duty to overthrow Tubanamá, kill some of his men, steal a few of
his women, and relieve him of his gold. But to do this he must have
a thousand soldiers, so he had been told. Casting his eye over his
little band of bruised and wayworn men, he thought how one mistake
might swallow all his past successes, and sighed; then he slept on it,
and when after a few days' rest the question was adventured, enough
were eager for the raid. The result was that seventy Spaniards, and
a squad of Pocorosa's warriors, after a rapid march, fell on Tubanamá
about midnight and brought him away prisoner, Ogilby says with eighty
concubines. The men of Pocorosa, and chiefs of adjoining tribes, began
to revile him, and begged of Vasco Nuñez his immediate death. He had
done worse things than Poncra, they said, and had beside spoken ill of
the Spaniards, threatening to drag them to death by the hair of their
head if ever they came within his reach. Vasco Nuñez pondered. For some
time past he had entertained a plan of establishing in this vicinity a
military post for the protection of commerce between the seas, and also
of gold-mining. Was it better to kill this chief as an enemy, or let
him live as a friend, and assist to keep the others friendly? He chose
the latter course. But first he must temper the proposed friendship by
trial. "Infamous tyrant," he thundered at the trembling prisoner, "now
shalt thou suffer for thine abominations. Thou shalt be made to feel the
power of the Christians, and the same doom which thou before thy naked
slaves didst promise them, shall now be meted thee." He then motioned
the attendants as if to remove him for execution. The unhappy cacique
denied the accusations and begged for his life. Balboa apparently
overcome by his entreaties slowly relented, and finally ordered the
captive released. The overjoyed chieftain could not do enough for his
deliverer. He stripped his women of their ornaments, and, collecting
all articles within his reach fabricated of the coveted metal, presented
the Spaniards with thirty marks of gold, and his subjects soon brought
in sixty marks more. Enjoining Tubanamá to gather gold, and ever remain
true to the Spaniards, Balboa returned in triumph to Pocorosa's town,
with a long train of enslaved captives. About this time Vasco Nuñez
fell sick; and no wonder when we consider the strain on mind and body
during the past four months. First in every action, bearing exposure and
privation in common with the poorest soldier, with the responsibility
of the adventure resting wholly on him, he was a fit subject for fever.
But his indomitable spirit never forsook him, and causing himself to be
carried on a litter he still directed movements, as they resumed their
march.
Weary, ragged, but exultant, the party at length reached the village of
Comagre. Panciaco was overjoyed to see them. The old chief was dead,
and the young man filled his father's place. He could not do enough
for Vasco Nuñez, for whom his affection seemed to grow in proportion
as he was permitted to do him service. Panciaco had given the strangers
gold and slaves; he had entertained them royally, had told them of the
Southern Sea and the way to reach it, all his words proving true. Now he
was permitted to entertain and nurse the emaciated Spaniards, and this
he did with lavish generosity, watching Vasco Nuñez through his sickness
with the affection of a brother. He was permitted to give them more
gold, and did so. The Spaniards graciously received these benefits; and
in return for obligations too vast for requital, the generous cavalier,
the chivalrous discoverer of the great South Sea, gave his friend and
benefactor a linen shirt and some worthless trinkets. His parting words
were "Gather and send me more gold, Panciaco." The chief, however,
before the party left, had embraced Christianity and received baptism.
[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT ANTIGUA.]
It was the 14th of January that the party left Comagre. A short and easy
march brought them to Poncra's village, where fortune wreathed in smiles
still attended the commander, now free from illness and loaded with
gold. Vasco Nuñez here was met by four Spaniards from Antigua who had
come to report the arrival of two vessels from Española with provisions
and reinforcements. Leaving the greater part of his company to follow
at their leisure, Balboa with twenty men pressed forward, and after a
hearty greeting from Careta at his village, embarked in the brigantine
which there awaited him, and arrived the 19th of January, 1514.
His entry into the settlement was a triumph. All the people came to
welcome him, and he was conducted to the public square midst loud
acclaims. And when he told them of his successes, of the wealth-bound
sea, and the treasures he had obtained, they were wild with exultation.
Beside gold, to the value of more than forty thousand pesos,[IX-17] the
Spaniards had brought eight hundred Indian slaves, and a large quantity
of pearls, cotton cloth, and Indian weapons. All the nations on the
route, both in going and in coming, had been subjugated without the loss
of a battle and without the loss of a man. Thus terminated one of the
grandest and most successful achievements of the Spaniards in the New
World.
* * * * *
The remainder of the company soon arrived, and the spoils were thereupon
distributed in equitable allotments, wherein also those participated
who had remained at home. Beside the royal share, two hundred of the
largest and most beautiful pearls were set apart by Vasco Nuñez and his
companions as a present for the king, and one of their number, Pedro
de Arbolancha, an intelligent man and trusty friend of the governor,
was chosen as envoy to proceed immediately to Spain and proclaim
this important discovery. By him Vasco Nuñez sent the sovereign a
letter detailing his brilliant achievement, and requesting the royal
appointment as governor of the region by him discovered, with the means
to prosecute further adventures on that coast. "And in all his long
letter," says Peter Martyr, "there is not a single leaf written which
does not contain thanks to Almighty God for delivery from perils, and
preservation from many imminent dangers." This letter was dated at
Antigua the 4th of March, and a few days after Arbolancha took his
departure.
[Sidenote: PROSPERITY OF THE COLONY.]
Meanwhile Balboa was unremitting in his efforts to advance the
prosperity of the growing colony. Having so long suffered the miseries
and inconvenience of a meagre supply of food, particular attention was
turned to agriculture. Indian corn was produced in great quantities,
and seeds of various kinds from Spain were planted, yielding fruit in
abundance. Society became more settled and factions were at rest; for
who could stand before Vasco Nuñez? Memories of home bloomed anew.
Old-time amusements were again enjoyed; national holidays were regarded,
and jousts and tournaments were held, if not with as rich display as
formerly, yet with heartiness and merrymaking. Two of the pacified
caciques became discontented and rebelled, but were soon quieted by a
few men under Diego Hurtado. Another captain, Andrés Garabito, was sent
to explore the country for the shortest and best route between the seas.
Peace everywhere reigned; and with a profusion of food and gold already
in store, with high anticipations regarding the future; with wealth, and
dominion, and honor, and brilliant hopes, and multitudes of heathen for
slaves, ought not these pirates to have been supremely happy?