idle drops of water danced and danced; and, peeping out in sport
among the trees, plunged lightly down to hide themselves, as little
Ruth and her companion came towards it.”
See chapter 53. In Garden Court beyond, _Mr. Pip_ and his friend,
_Herbert Pocket_, had residence. In “Great Expectations,” he says—
“Our Chambers were in Garden Court, down by the river. We lived at
the top of the last house.”
Here Pip’s patron and benefactor, the convict _Magwitch_, _alias Provis_,
disclosed himself one memorable night, much to his “dear boy’s”
discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary accommodation was
found for him at
“A lodging-house in Essex Street, the back of which looked into the
Temple, and was almost within hail of ‘Pip’s’ windows.”
The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may look in vain for
the actual chambers specified. Returning to _Middle Temple Lane_, the
visitor may walk directly across it to _Elm Court_, and proceed through
the same and a narrow passage beyond, turning to the left, through _The
Cloisters_, which (left again) give into the central location of Pump
Court, an oblong old-fashioned court of offices, four storeys high.
Here, in all probability, were situated THE CHAMBERS where _Tom Pinch_
was mysteriously installed as librarian to an unknown employer, by the
eccentric _Mr. Fips_.
“He led the way through sundry lanes and courts, into one more quiet
and gloomy than the rest; and, singling out a certain house, ascended
a common staircase . . . stopping before a door upon an upper storey.
. . . There were two rooms on that floor; and in the first, or outer
one, a narrow staircase leading to two more above.”
Here, also, old _Martin Chuzzlewit_ revealed himself to the astonished
Tom in his true character, and surprised the virtuous _Mr. Pecksniff_ by
a “warm reception,” when “the tables were turned completely upside
down.”—See “Chuzzlewit,” chapters 39 and 52.
Proceeding past _Lamb Buildings_, on the east side of the Cloisters, and
by a passage six steps downwards, leading beneath the _Inner Temple
Dining-Hall_, we may note across the road (right) a short range of
substantial houses, known as Paper Buildings, facing _King’s Bench Walk_,
where it will be remembered that _Sir John Chester_ had his residential
chambers, no doubt selecting a central position—say, at No. 3. Here at
various times Mr. Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappertit, and Gabriel Varden
had audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which “overhaul the
wollume”—“Barnaby Rudge.”
In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of _Mr. Stryver_,
_K.C._, where _Sydney Carton_ served as “jackal” to that “fellow of
delicacy;” as we read in “The Tale of Two Cities,” how Sydney
“Having revived himself by twice pacing the pavements of King’s Bench
Walk and Paper Buildings, turned into the Stryver Chambers.”
Returning to Fleet Street by Lamb Buildings, and passing in front of the
Old Temple Church, we come to Goldsmith’s Buildings (right), which
overlook the old burial-ground and the tomb of the doctor. This surely
is the “dismal churchyard” referred to in “Our Mutual Friend” as being
closely contiguous to the offices of Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn.
“Whosoever . . . had looked up at the dismal windows commanding that
churchyard, until at the most dismal window of them all, he saw a
dismal boy, would in him have beheld . . . the clerk of Mr. Mortimer
Lightwood.”
_N.B._—Note the last window on the left (second floor), nearest the west
wing, lately rebuilt.
Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner Temple
Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circumstance of Bradley Headstone’s
nightly watchings opposite this point for the outgoings of _Mr. Eugene
Wrayburn_, and the many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as
Eugene enjoyed “the pleasures of the chase” at the expense of his
unfortunate rival.
Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is Clifford’s Inn
Passage, into whose retirement _Mr. Rokesmith_, the hero of “Our Mutual
Friend,” withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with _Mr. Boffin_, when
offering that gentleman his services as secretary.
Close at hand stands St. Dunstan’s Church, near to which the pump was,
but is not, from whose refreshing streams “_Hugh_” (from the Maypole,
Chigwell) sobered himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to
visiting Sir John Chester at Paper Buildings. (_Vide_ “Barnaby Rudge,”
chapter 40.) The old pump has been replaced by a drinking-fountain.
_Toby Veck_ surely must have known that pump; for though there is no
precise location given by Dickens in “The Chimes” for the church near to
which Toby waited for jobs, there is an etching by Stanfield in the
original edition of that book (page 88), which is unmistakably the
counterfeit presentment of St. Dunstan’s Tower.
Continuing the route, we pass _Bouverie Street_ (Bradbury and Evans—now
Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.—in this street were the publishers of several of
the works of Dickens, “The Chimes” included) on the right, next arriving
at _Whitefriars’ Street_ on the same side.
At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public Office of “The Daily
News.” This influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under
the supervision of Charles Dickens, and in the earlier numbers of the
journal were published instalments of his “Pictures from Italy.” Dickens
shortly relinquished the editorship, being succeeded by his friends
Jerrold and Forster. The fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the
study of general or party politics; but he always identified himself with
“the People—spelt with a large P, who are governed,” rather than “the
people—spelt with a small p, who govern.”
A short distance down Whitefriars’ Street is a passage (left) from which,
at a right angle riverwards, we may look into Hanging Sword Alley, where
Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher, messenger at Tellson’s, had his two apartments.
These “were very decently kept” by his wife, whose “flopping”
proclivities gave so much umbrage to Jerry.
On the opposite side of Fleet Street—No. 146—just beyond, we turn (left)
into _Wine Office Court_, and, on the right, we arrive at “Ye Olde
Cheshire Cheese.” In “The Tale of Two Cities,” Book 2, chapter 4, we
read that _Charles Darnay_, being acquitted of the charge of high
treason, on his trial at the Old Bailey, was persuaded by the young
lawyer, _Sydney Carton_, to dine in his company thereafter:—
“Drawing his arm through his own, he took him down Ludgate Hill to
Fleet Street, and so up a covered way into a tavern.”
This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a noted resort
with literary and legal men for more than a century past. Here Doctor
Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith frequently dined together in days gone by,
gravely discoursing over their punch afterwards; and, in more recent
years, Thackeray, Dickens, Jerrold, Sala, and others have been reckoned
among the customary guests of the establishment. Mr. George Augustus
Sala, in a pleasant description of the place, writes as follows:—
“Let it be noted in candour that Law finds its way to the ‘Cheese’ as
well as Literature; but the Law is, as a rule, of the non-combatant,
and, consequently, harmless order. Literary men who have been called
to the Bar, but do not practise; briefless young barristers, who do
not object to mingling with newspaper men; with a sprinkling of
retired solicitors (amazing dogs these for old port wine; the
landlord has some of the same bin which served as Hippocrene to Judge
Blackstone when he wrote his ‘Commentaries’)—these make up the legal
element of the ‘Cheese.’”
The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor attains
_Ludgate Circus_, from which _Farringdon Street_ leads northward on the
left. A short detour along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge
of the Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of _Farringdon Market_ on the
left side. Its position will recall the description given in “Barnaby
Rudge,” in whose days it was known as Fleet Market,
“At that time a long irregular row of wooden sheds and penthouses
occupying the centre of what is now called Farringdon Street. . . .
It was indispensable to most public conveniences in those days that
they should be public nuisances likewise, and Fleet Market maintained
the principle to admiration.”
Here the rioters assembled—as narrated in the book before mentioned—and
passed a merry night in the midst of congenial surroundings. Retracing
our steps, we may note, on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site
of the old Fleet Prison, on a part of which now stands the CONGREGATIONAL
MEMORIAL HALL. The prison—fifty years since—stretched eastward in the
rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Cassell and Co., Belle
Sauvage Yard. Its last remaining walls were removed in 1872, when the
foundation-stone of the “Memorial Hall” aforesaid was laid. Here was
imprisoned our amiable friend _Mr. Pickwick_, attended by his faithful
Sam, until the time when the costs of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg in _re_
Bardell _versus_ Pickwick were by him fully paid and satisfied.
Proceeding up _Ludgate Hill_, we may soon note the Belle Sauvage Yard
(turning by No. 68, on the left). The old inn, with its central
metropolitan coach-yard, sixty years since occupied this site, where now
the extensive printing and publishing offices of Cassell and Co. hold
benignant sway. The place is referred to in an anecdote of _Sam
Weller’s_ anent the preparation of his father’s marriage licence, as
arranged at Doctors’ Commons, the place being evidently regarded by that
respected coachman as his parochial headquarters in London—
“‘What is your name, sir?’ says the lawyer. ‘Tony Weller,’ says my
father. ‘Parish?’ says the lawyer. ‘Belle Savage,’ says my father;
for he stopped there when he drove up, and he know’d nothing about
parishes, _he_ didn’t.”
The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its olden style.
In Mr. Weller’s time it comprised two courts, the outer one being
approached from Ludgate Hill by the present entrance, and the Belle
Sauvage Inn forming a second quadrangle, with an archway about half-way
up from the main entrance. In this interior court was the coach-yard,
surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the fashion of
the times.
Passing onwards on the same side, past _Old Bailey_, we arrive at the
site of the London Coffee Tavern, No. 46 Ludgate Hill, now occupied by
the corner shop of Messrs. Hope Brothers, the well-known outfitters. The
old house was pulled down in 1872. Here _Mr. Arthur Clennam_ rested
awhile on his arrival “from Marseilles by way of Dover, and by Dover
coach, ‘the Blue-Eyed Maid,’” one dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in
chapter 3 of “Little Dorrit.” We now soon come to St. Paul’s Churchyard,
facing the dial by which _Ralph Nickleby_ corrected his watch on his way
to the London Tavern, no doubt “stepping aside” into No.
1—Dakin’s—“doorway” to do it; and we may probably be disposed to endorse
_John Browdie’s_ verdict with reference to St. Paul’s Cathedral itself.
“See there, lass, there be Paul’s Church. Ecod, he be a soizable one, he
be.” This locality is also mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as being in the
line of road taken by _Lord George Gordon_ when entering London with his
friends _en route_ for his residence in Welbeck Street. On the right,
within a short distance, we come to Dean’s Court, formerly DOCTORS’
COMMONS. This place is referred to by _Sam Weller_ as being in
“St. Paul’s Churchyard—low archway on the carriage side, bookseller’s
at one corner, hot-el on the other, and two porters in the middle, as
touts for licences.”
He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circumstance of his father’s
having been here persuaded to take a marriage licence, directing the
lady’s name to be filled in on speculation.
We hear more of Doctors’ Commons in the chronicles of “David
Copperfield.”
The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins were situated in this locality; but
the site is now occupied by the Post Office Savings’ Bank in _Knightrider
Street_. Passing through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul’s
(right), we cross _Carter Lane_, and proceed by a narrow court, _Bell
Yard_, to the street above mentioned. At the corner of Carter Lane and
Bell Yard is the “_Bell Tavern_,” which it may be interesting to note, as
a house where Mr. Dickens frequently rested, making his notes in
preparation for David’s “choice of a profession.” For full particulars
the Rambler is referred to chapter 23 of David’s autobiography.
It may also be remembered that the worthy _Mr. Boffin_ (see “Our Mutual
Friend”), when instructing his attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in
his ideas relative to this institution. In conversation with Mr.
Lightwood, he once referred to the same as a legal personality—“_Doctor
Scommons_!”
This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its name and
aspect. The old archway has disappeared. As previously stated, it is
now known as Dean’s Court. In connection with its old associations,
there exists _The Bishop of London’s Registry and Marriage Licence
Office_, at the east corner of the court; and there are some Proctors’
offices doing business, as in the days of Copperfield, in the
neighbourhood.
On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into Cheapside, soon
arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 122), at Wood Street.
Associated with “Great Expectations,” as containing “Cross Keys Inn”
(“_The Castle_,” No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip arrived when first
visiting London, in accordance with instructions received per _Mr.
Jaggers_.
Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach the
well-known establishment of the London Stereoscopic Company, No. 54. It
may be interesting to know that this firm possesses the stuffed original
of “_Grip_,” the Raven, the fortunate bird that received a double
passport to fame, Dickens having narrated the particulars of its decease,
and Maclise having sketched its apotheosis. This relic, so intimately
associated with the tale of “Barnaby Rudge,” was purchased at the public
sale of Mr. Dickens’s effects for £110, and its photographic portrait may
be now obtained at this address.
A few steps farther on the same side stands the old Church of St.
Mary-le-Bow, whose bells recalled Dick Whittington to fame and fortune.
These same bells are mentioned in the history of “Dombey and Son,”
chapter 4, as being within hearing at the offices of that important firm.
Passing on, and crossing to the north side of the thoroughfare, we arrive
at King Street (turning by No. 92), at the top of which is The Guildhall.
In the City Court attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of
promise of marriage, “Bardell _v._ Pickwick,” was contested, on which
occasion _Mr. Weller_, _senr._, emphatically insisted (from the body of
the Court) on Sam’s spelling his name with a “we,” and afterwards much
deplored the absence of certain technical defence on Mr. Pickwick’s
behalf—“Oh, Sammy, Sammy, vy vorn’t there a alleybi?” Are not all these
and other particulars written in the chronicles of the “Pickwick
Papers”?—See chapter 34.
Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse direction of
the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort), we come into the
Poultry, at the farther end, passing a turning on the left therefrom,
known as GROCERS’ HALL COURT. It will be remembered that on one occasion
when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet glass of brandy and water, Sam Weller,
whose “knowledge of London was extensive and peculiar,” led the way from
the Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to the
last house but one on the same side of the way, where he directed his
master to
“Take the box as stands in the first fireplace, ’cos there a’n’t no
leg in the middle of the table.”
In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find that this
house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter, but it is
recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the old-fashioned
sort. Mr. Weller, the elder, was here introduced to his son’s patron,
and thereupon arranged for Mr. Pickwick’s journey to Ipswich. At the end
of the Poultry we next approach, on the right, The Mansion House,
mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the residence of the Mayor of London. We
read of this civic potentate in the pages of “The Christmas Carol,” when,
one Christmas Eve,
“The Lord Mayor, in the stronghold of the mighty Mansion House, gave
orders to his fifty cooks and butlers to keep Christmas as a Lord
Mayor’s household should.”
_Mark Tapley_ also—in America—once made jocose reference to this
location. When speaking of Queen Victoria, he informed certain members
of the Watertoast Association to the following effect:—
“She has lodgings, in virtue of her office, with the Lord Mayor at
the Mansion House, but don’t often occupy them, in consequence of the
parlour chimney smoking.”
Messrs. Dombey and Son had their offices in the City, within the sound of
Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion House. Their position was
probably in proximity to _The Royal Exchange_, but the address cannot be
definitely indicated. Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme, and
schemed for his own aggrandisement, regardless of the prosperity of the
house.
The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the thriving
establishment of the well-known merchant tailors—DOMBEY & SON—will be
found at No. 120 _Cheapside_, at which a large and well-conducted
business is carried on.
From this point we may conveniently visit “His Lordship’s Larder” (at
three minutes’ distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh,
“rest, and be thankful.”
RAMBLE III
_Charing Cross to Thavies Inn_, _Holborn Circus_
South-Eastern Terminus—Spa Road Station—Jacob’s Island; Sykes’s last
Refuge—Butler’s Wharf, formerly Quilp’s Wharf—Quilp’s House, Tower
Hill—Trinity House and Garden; Bella Wilfer’s Waiting-place—Southwark
Bridge; Little Dorrit’s Promenade—The General Post Office—Falcon Hotel,
Falcon Square; John Jasper’s patronage—Little Britain; Office of Mr.
Jaggers—Smithfield—Newgate Prison; Pip’s description in “Great
Expectations”—The Old Bailey Criminal Court, as per “Tale of Two
Cities”—The Saracen’s Head; Associations with Nicholas
Nickleby—Clerkenwell Green; Oliver Twist and his Companions—Scene of the
Robbery—Line of Route taken by Oliver and “The Artful Dodger” from the
Angel to Saffron Hill—Hatton Garden Police Court; Administration of Mr.
Fang—Great Saffron Hill and Field Lane—Fagin’s House and the “Three
Cripples”—Bleeding Hart Yard; Factory of Doyce and Clennam; the Plornish
Family—Ely Place—Thavies Inn; Mrs. Jellyby’s Residence.
From the SOUTH-EASTERN TERMINUS at Charing Cross there are frequent
trains by which the Rambler can travel to _Spa Road Station_,
_Bermondsey_ (about twenty minutes’ ride), from which point the situation
of what was once Jacob’s Island may be conveniently visited. This place
was associated with the adventures of _Oliver Twist_, being the last
refuge to which _Sykes_, the murderer of _Nancy_, betook himself on his
return to London, and where he met a righteous retribution when
attempting his escape. It is described by Dickens—nearly sixty years
since—as being
“Near to that part of the Thames on which the church at Rotherhithe
abuts, where the buildings on the banks are dirtiest, and the vessels
on the river blackest, with the dust of colliers and the smoke of
close-built, low-roofed houses. In such a neighbourhood, beyond
Dockhead, in the borough of Southwark, stands Jacob’s Island,
surrounded by a muddy ditch, six or eight feet deep, and fifteen or
twenty wide when the tide is in, once called Mill Pond, but known in
the days of this story as Folly Ditch.”
Arriving at _Spa Road_, the explorer turns left and right by the short
routes of _West Street South_, _Fream Street_, and _Rouel Road_, into
_Jamaica Road_ (five minutes from station); passing from the opposite
side of which, through _Parker’s Row_ to the thoroughfare of _Dockhead_,
he will find himself face to face with a tavern on the north side, named
“The Swan and Sugar Loaf.” A short cut on the right of this house leads
immediately to LONDON STREET, its northern side forming the south
boundary of the old site of Jacob’s Island. _Folly Ditch_, flowing from
the Thames through Mill Street, took its course through London Street (it
has been filled in since 1851); and in these streets wooden bridges
crossed to the Island, and “crazy wooden galleries, common to the backs
of half-a-dozen houses”—referred to by the novelist—used to “ornament the
banks of Folly Ditch.” To the right we pass into _George Row_, enclosing
Jacob’s Island (east), and may note _en passant_ the blocks of workmen’s
dwellings, erected 1883, named “Wolseley’s Buildings,” which occupy the
site of the old Island on its eastern side. From George Row we turn
(right) into _Jacob Street_, north of the Island, by which we come into
_Mill Street_ (west); again returning to _London Street_, and so
completing the circumnavigation of this interesting locality. Some of
the old wooden erections still exist in _Farthing Alley_, _Halfpenny
Alley_, and _Edward Street_, which intersect the area. In his preface to
the first cheap edition of “Oliver Twist,” the author makes a further
reference, as follows:—
“In the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, it was publicly
declared in London by an amazing alderman, that Jacob’s Island did
not exist, and never had existed. Jacob’s Island continues to exist
(like an ill-bred place as it is) in the year one thousand eight
hundred and sixty-seven, though improved and much changed.”
Starting westward from “The Swan and Sugar Loaf,” we now proceed through
_Thornton Street_, and turn to the right, by one block in the street
beyond, into _Queen Street_, which leads directly north to the riverside.
At the end of this street is the locality of Quilp’s Wharf and place of
business, aforetime described in the pages of “The Old Curiosity Shop”:—
“A small, rat-infested, dreary yard, in which were a little wooden
counting-house, burrowing all awry in the dust as if it had fallen
from the clouds, and ploughed into the ground; a few fragments of
rusty anchors, several large iron rings, some piles of rotten wood,
and two or three heaps of old sheet copper—crumpled, cracked, and
battered.”
The place has been altogether altered and improved during the last forty
years, and is now known as “Butler’s Wharf,” but the original prototype
of Quilp is still remembered by some of the older residents of the
neighbourhood.
The westward route being continued by the side of the river, we walk
through _Shad Thames_ and _Pickle Herring Street_ (underneath an archway)
to _Vine Street_, where is the southern entrance of the _Tower Subway_,
by which we may cross below the river to the other side. Emerging near
the Tower, Quilp’s House, on Tower Hill, is near at hand. No. 6 Tower
Dock, facing the public entrance to the Tower, is said to have comprised
the lodging assigned by Dickens for the accommodation of Mr. and Mrs.
Daniel Quilp and Mrs. Jiniwin. We may here recall the matrons’
tea-meeting, as described in chapter 4 of “The Old Curiosity Shop,” when
Quilp’s conduct as a husband was freely discussed, and much good advice
tendered to Mrs. Quilp for the true assertion of her rights and dignity.
Also the notable occasion when, the master of the house being missing and
thought to be drowned, _Mr. Sampson Brass_ was in consultation, and the
party were unpleasantly surprised, as they were preparing a descriptive
advertisement, by the sudden appearance of the Dwarf, as lively and
sarcastic as ever.
“A question now arises with regard to his nose. ‘Flat,’ said Mrs.
Jiniwin. ‘Aquiline!’ cried Quilp, thrusting in his head, and
striking the feature with his fist. ‘Aquiline, you hag. Do you see
it? Do you call this flat? Do you? Eh?’”