CHAPTER XXI.

Life around the Great River.--Insects.--Reptiles.--Birds.--Mammals.

The forest of the Amazon is less full of life than the river. Beasts,

birds, and reptiles are exceedingly scarce; still there is, in fact, a

great variety, but they are widely scattered and very shy. In the

animal, as in the vegetable kingdom, diversity is the law; there is a

great paucity of individuals compared with the species.[173] Insects are

rare in the dense forest; they are almost confined to the more open

country along the banks of the rivers. Ants are perhaps the most

numerous. There is one species over an inch long. But the most

prominent, by their immense numbers, are the dreaded saübas. Well-beaten

paths branch off in every direction through the forest, on which broad

columns may be seen marching to and fro, each bearing vertically a

circular piece of leaf. Unfortunately they prefer cultivated trees,

especially the coffee and orange. They are also given to plundering

provisions; in a single night they will carry off bushels of farina.

They are of a light red color, with powerful jaws. In every formicarium

or ant colony there are three sets of individuals--males, females, and

workers; but the saübas have the singularity of possessing three classes

of workers. The light-colored mounds often met in the forest, sometimes

measuring forty feet in diameter by two feet in height, are the domes

which overlie the entrances to the vast subterranean galleries of the

saüba ants. These ants are eaten by the Rio Negro Indians, and esteemed

a luxury; while the Tapajos tribes use them to season their mandioca

sauce. Akin to the vegetable-feeding saübas are the carnivorous ecitons,

or foraging ants, of which Bates found ten distinct species. They hunt

for prey in large organized armies, almost every species having its own

special manner of marching and hunting. Fortunately the ecitons choose

the thickest part of the forest. The fire-ant is the great plague on the

Tapajos. It is small, and of a shiny reddish color; but its sting is

very painful, and it disputes every fragment of food with the

inhabitants. All eatables and hammocks have to be hung by cords smeared

with copaiba balsam.

[Footnote 173: Amazonia is divided into four distinct zoological

districts: those of Ecuador, Peru, Guiana, and Brazil; the limits being

the Amazon, Madeira, and Negro. The species found on one side of these

rivers are seldom found on the other.]

The traveler on the Amazon frequently meets with conical hillocks of

compact earth, from three to five feet high, from which radiate narrow

covered galleries or arcades. The architects of these wonderful

structures are the termites, or "white ants," so called, though they

belong to a higher order of insects, widely differing from the true

ants. The only thing in common is the principle of division of labor.

The termite neuters are subdivided into two classes, soldiers and

workers, both wingless and blind. Their great enemy is the ant-eater;

but it is a singular fact, noticed by Bates, that the soldiers only

attach themselves to the long worm-like tongue of this animal, so that

the workers, on whom the prosperity of the termitarum depends, are saved

by the self-sacrifice of the fighting caste. The office of the termites

in the tropics seems to be to hasten the decomposition of decaying

vegetation. But they also work their way into houses, trunks, wardrobes,

and libraries. "It is principally owing to their destructiveness" (wrote

Humboldt) "that it is so rare to find papers in tropical America older

than fifty or sixty years."

Dragon-flies are conspicuous specimens of insect life on the Amazon. The

largest and most brilliant kinds are found by the shady brooks and

creeks in the recesses of the forest, some of them with green or crimson

bodies seven inches long, and their elegant lace-like wings tipped with

white or yellow. Still more noticeable are the butterflies. There is a

vast number of genera and species, and great beauty of dress, unequaled

in the temperate zone. Some idea of the diversity is conveyed by the

fact mentioned by Mr. Bates that about 700 species are found within an

hour's walk of Pará, and 550 at Ega; while the total number found in the

British Islands does not exceed 66, and the whole of Europe supports

only 300. After a shower in the dry season the butterflies appear in

fluttering clouds (for they live in societies), white, yellow, red,

green, purple, black, and blue, many of them bordered with metallic

lines and spots of a silvery or golden lustre. The sulphur-yellow and

orange-colored kinds predominate. A colossal morpho, seven and a half

inches in expanse, and visible a quarter of a mile off, frequents the

shady glades; splendid swallow-tailed papilios, green, rose, or

velvety-black, are seen only in the thickets; while the _Hetaira

esmeralda_, with transparent wings, having one spot of a violet hue, as

it flies over the dead leaves in the dense forest looks "like a

wandering petal of a flower." Very abundant is the _Heliconius_, which

plays such an important figure, by its variations, in Wallace's theory

of the origin of species. On the Marañon we found _Callidryas eubule_, a

yellow butterfly common in Florida. The most brilliant butterflies are

found on the Middle Amazon, out of reach of the strong trade winds. The

males far outnumber the other sex, are more richly colored, and

generally lead a sunshiny life.

The females are of dull hues, and spend their lives in the gloomy

shadows of the forest. Caterpillars and nocturnal moths are rare.

There are no true hive-bees (_Apides_) in South America,[174] but

instead there are about one hundred and fifty species of bees (mostly

social _Moliponas_), smaller than the European, stingless, and

constructing oblong cells. Their colonies are much larger than those of

the honey-bee. The _Trigona_ occurs on the Napo. Unlike the _Melipona_,

it is not confined to the New World. A large sooty-black Bombus

represents our humble-bee. Shrill cicadas, blood-thirsty mantucas,

piums, punkies, and musquitoes are always associated in the traveler's

memory with the glorious river. Of the last there are several kinds.

"The forest musquito belongs to a different species from that of the

town, being much larger and having transparent wings. It is a little

cloud that one carries about his person every step on a woodland ramble,

and their hum is so loud that it prevents one hearing well the notes of

birds. The town musquito has opaque, speckled wings, a less severe

sting, and a silent way of going to work. The inhabitants ought to be

thankful the big noisy fellows never come out of the forest" (Bates,

ii., 386). There are few musquitoes below Ega; above that point a

musquito net is indispensable. Beetles abound, particularly in shady

places, and are of all sizes, from that of a pin's head to several

inches in length. The most noticeable are the gigantic _Megalosoma_ and

_Enema_, armed with horns. Very few are carnivorous. "This is the more

remarkable," observes Darwin, "when compared to the case of carnivorous

quadrupeds, which are so abundant in hot countries." Very few are

terrestrial, even the carnivorous species being found clinging to

branches and leaves. In going from the pole to the equator we find that

insect life increases in the same proportion as vegetable life. There is

not a single beetle on Melville Island; eleven species are found in

Greenland; in England, 2500; in Brazil, 8000. Here lives the king of

spiders, the _Mygale Blondii_, a monstrous hairy fellow, five inches

long, of a brown color, with yellowish lines along its stout legs. Its

abode is a slanting subterranean gallery about two feet in length, the

sides of which are beautifully lined with silk. Other spiders barricade

the walks in the forest with invisible threads; some build nests in the

trees and attack birds; others again spin a closely-woven web,

resembling fine muslin, under the thatched roofs of the houses.

[Footnote 174: The honey-bee of Europe was introduced into South America

in 1845.]

Of land vertebrates, lizards are the first to attract the attention of

the traveler on the equator. Great in number and variety, they are met

every where--crawling up the walls of buildings, scampering over the

hot, dusty roads, gliding through the forest. They stand up on their

legs, carry their tails cocked up in the air, and run with the activity

of a warm-blooded animal. It is almost impossible to catch them. Some of

them are far from being the unpleasant-looking animals many people

imagine; but in their coats of many colors, green, gray, brown, and

yellow, they may be pronounced beautiful. Others, however, have a

repulsive aspect, and are a yard in length. The iguana, peculiar to the

New World tropics, is covered with minute green scales handed with brown

(though it changes its color like the chameleon), and has a serrated

back and gular pouch. It grows to the length of five feet, and is

arboreal. Its white flesh, and its oblong, oily eggs, arc considered

great delicacies. We heard of a lady who kept one as a pet. Frogs and

toads, the chief musicians in the Amazonian forest, are of all sizes,

from an inch to a foot in diameter. The _Bufo gigas_ is of a dull gray

color, and is covered with warts. Tree-frogs (_Hyla_) are very

abundant; they do not occur on the Andes or on the Pacific coast. Their

quack-quack, drum-drum, hoo-hoo, is one of our pleasant memories of

South America. Of snakes there is no lack; and yet they are not so

numerous as imagination would make them. There are one hundred and fifty

species in South America, or one half as many, on the same area, as in

the East Indies. The diabolical family is led by the boa, while the rear

is brought up by the Amphisbænas, or "double-headed snakes," which

progress equally well with either end forward, so that it is difficult

to make head or tail of them. The majority are harmless. The deadly

corál is found on both sides of the Andes, and wherever there is a cacao

plantation. One of the most beautiful specimens of the venomous kind is

a new species (_Elaps imperator_, Cope), which we discovered on the

Marañon. It has a slender body more than two feet in length, with black

and red bands margined with yellow, and a black and yellow head, with

permanently erect fangs.

[Illustration: Iguana.]

We have already mentioned the most common birds. Probably, says Wallace,

no country in the world contains a greater variety of birds than the

Amazonian Valley. But the number does not equal the expectations of the

traveler; he may ramble a whole day without meeting one. The rarity,

however, is more apparent than real; we forget, for the moment, the

vastness of their dwelling-place. The birds of the country, moreover,

are gregarious, so that a locality may be deserted and silent at one

time and swarming with them at another. Parrots and toucans are the most

characteristic groups. To the former belong true parrots, parroquets,

and macaws. The first are rarely seen walking, but are rapid flyers and

expert climbers. On the trees they are social as monkeys, but in flight

they always go in pairs. The parroquets go in flocks. The Hyacinthine

macaw (the Araruna of the natives) is one of the finest and rarest

species of the parrot family. It is found only on the south side of the

Amazon. The macaw was considered sacred by the Maya Indians of Yucatan,

and dedicated to the sun. The Quichuans call it guacamayo, guaca meaning

sacred. Of toucans there are many species; the largest is the toco, with

a beak shaped like a banana; the most beautiful are the curb-crested, or

Beauharnais toucans, and the _P. flavirostris_, whose breast is adorned

with broad belts of red, crimson, and black. "Wherefore such a beak?"

every naturalist has asked; but the toucan still wags his head, as much

as to say, "you can not tell." There must be some other reason than

adaptation. Birds of the same habits are found beside it--the ibis,

pigeon, spoonbill, and toucan are seen feeding together. "How

astonishing are the freaks and fancies of Nature! (wrote the funny

Sidney Smith). To what purpose, we say, is a bird placed in the woods of

Cayenne with a bill a yard long, making a noise like a puppy-dog, and

laying eggs in hollow trees? The toucan, to be sure, might retort, to

what purpose are certain foolish, prating members of Parliament created,

pestering the House of Commons with their ignorance and folly, and

impeding the business of the country? There is no end to such questions;

so we will not enter into the metaphysics of the toucan."

[Illustration: Toucans.]

On the flooded islands of the Negro and Upper Amazon is found the rare

and curious umbrella bird, black as a crow, and decorated with a crest

of hairy plumes and a long lobe suspended from the neck, covered with

glossy blue feathers. This latter appendage is connected with the vocal

organs, and assists the bird in producing its deep, loud, and lengthy

fluty note. There are three species. Another rare bird is the Uruponga,

or Campanéro, in English the tolling-bell bird, found only on the

borders of Guiana. It is of the size of our jay, of a pure white color,

with a black tubercle on the upper side of the bill. "Orpheus himself

(says Waterton) would drop his lute to listen to him, so sweet, so

novel, and romantic is the toll of the pretty, snow-white Campanéro."

"The Campanéro may be heard three miles! (echoes Sidney Smith). This

single little bird being more powerful than the belfry of a cathedral

ringing for a new dean! It is impossible to contradict a gentleman who

has been in the forests of Cayenne, but we are determined, as soon as a

Campanéro is brought to England, to make him toll in a public place, and

have the distance measured."[175] But the most remarkable songster of

the Amazonian forest is the Realejo, or organ-bird. Its notes are as

musical as the flageolet. It is the only songster, says Bates, which

makes any impression on the natives. Besides those are the Jacamars,

peculiar to equatorial America, stupid, but of the most beautiful

golden, bronze, and steel colors; sulky Trogons, with glossy green backs

and rose-colored breasts; long-toed Jaçanas, half wader, half fowl; the

rich, velvety purple and black _Rhamphocoelus Jacapa_, having an immense

range from Archidona to Pará; the gallinaceous yet arboreal Ciganas;

scarlet ibises, smaller, but more beautiful than their sacred cousins of

the Nile; stilted flamingoes, whose awkwardness is atoned for by their

brilliant red plumage; glossy black Mutums, or curassow turkeys; ghostly

storks, white egrets, ash-colored herons, black ducks, barbets,

kingfishers, sandpipers, gulls, plovers, woodpeckers, oreoles; tanagers,

essentially a South American family, and, excepting three or four

species, found only east of the Andes; wagtails, finches, thrushes,

doves, and hummers. The last, "by western Indians _living sunbeams_

named," are few, and not to be compared with the swarms in the Andean

valleys. The birds of the Amazon have no uniform time for breeding. The

majority, however, build their nests between September and New Year's,

and rarely lay more than two eggs.

[Footnote 175: Review of Waterton's _Wanderings in South America_.]

[Illustration: Brazilian Hummers.]

[Illustration: Capybara]

Amazonia, like Australia, is poor in terrestrial mammals, and the

species are of small size. Nearly the only game a hunter can depend upon

for food, besides toucans and macaws, is peccari. One species of tapir,

to represent the elephants and rhinoceroses of the Old World; three

small species of deer, taking the places of deer, antelopes, buffaloes,

sheep, and goats of the other continent; three species of large Felidæ;

one peccari, and a wild dog, with opossums, ant-eaters, armadilloes,

sloths, squirrels (the only rodents which approach ours),[176]

capybaras, pacas, agoutis, and monkeys, comprise all the quadrupeds of

equatorial America. The last two are the most numerous. Marsupial rats

take the place of the insectivorous mammals. Of ant-eaters, there are at

least four distinct species; but they are scattered sparingly, and are

seldom found on the low flooded lands. Four or five species of

armadillo inhabit the valley. These little nocturnal burrowing edentates

are the puny representatives of the gigantic Glyptodon of Pleistocene

times, and the sloths are the dwindling shadows of the lordly

Megatherium. There are two species of three-toed sloths--one inhabiting

the swampy lowlands, the other confined to the terra-firma land. They

lead a lonely life, never in groups, harmless and frugal as a hermit.

They have four stomachs, but not the long intestines of ruminating

animals. They feed chiefly on the leaves of the trumpet-tree

(_Cecropia_), resembling our horse-chestnut. The natives, both Indian

and Brazilian, hold the common opinion that the sloth is the type of

laziness. The capybara or ronsoco, the largest of living rodents, is

quite common on the river side. It is gregarious and amphibious, and

resembles a mammoth guinea-pig. Pacas and agoutis are most abundant in

the lowlands, and are nocturnal. These semi-hoofed rodents, like the

Toxodon of old, approach the Pachyderms. The tapir, or gran-bestia, as

it is called, is a characteristic quadruped of South America. It is a

clumsy-looking animal, with a tough hide of an iron-gray color, covered

with a coat of short coarse hair. Its flesh is dry, but very palatable.

It has a less powerful proboscis than the Malay species. M. Roulin

distinguishes another species from the mountains, which more nearly

resembles the Asiatic. The tapir, like the condor, for an unknown

reason, is not found north of 8° N., though it wanders as far south as

40°. We met but one species of peccari, the white-lipped (_D.

labiatus_). It is much larger than the "Mexican hog," and, too

thick-headed to understand danger, is a formidable antagonist. The

raposa is seen only on the Middle Amazon, and very rarely there. It has

a long tapering muzzle, small ears, bushy tail, and grayish hair. It

takes to the water, for the one we saw at Tabatinga was caught while

crossing the Amazon. Fawn-colored pumas, spotted jaguars, black tigers,

tiger-cats--all members of the graceful feline family--inhabit all parts

of the valley, but are seldom seen. The puma, or panther, is more common

on the Pacific side of the Andes. The jaguar[177] is the fiercest and

most powerful animal in South America. It is marked like the

leopard--roses of black spots on a yellowish ground; but they are

angular instead of rounded, and have a central dot. There are also

several black streaks across the breast, which easily distinguish it

from its transatlantic representative. It is also longer than the

leopard; indeed, Humboldt says he saw a jaguar "whose length surpassed

that of any of the tigers of India which he had seen in the collections

of Europe." The jaguar frequents the borders of the rivers and lagunes,

and its common prey is the capybara. It fears the peccari. The night air

is alive with bats of many species, the most prominent one being the

_Dysopes perotis_, which measures two feet from tip to tip of the wings.

If these Cheiropters are as impish as they look, and as blood-thirsty as

some travelers report, it is singular that Bates and Waterton, though

residing for years in the country, and ourselves, though sleeping for

months unprotected, were unmolested.

[Footnote 176: Large rats abound on the Marnañon, but they are not

American.]

[Footnote 177: The Tupi word for dog is _yaguara_, and for wolf,

_yagua-men_, or old dog.]

[Illustration: Jaguar.]

About forty species of monkeys, or one half of the New World forms,

inhabit the Valley of the Amazon. Wallace, in a residence of four years,

saw twenty-one species--seven with prehensile and fourteen with

non-prehensile tails. They all differ from the apes of the other

hemisphere. While those of Africa and Asia (Europe has only one) have

opposable thumbs on the fore feet as well as hind, uniformly ten molar

teeth in each jaw, as in man, and generally cheek-pouches and naked

collosities, the American monkeys arc destitute of the two latter

characteristics. None of them are terrestrial, like the baboon; all

(save the marmosets) have twenty-four molars; the thumbs of the

fore-hands are not habitually opposed to the fingers (one genus, Ateles,

"the imperfect," is thumbless altogether); the nostrils open on the

sides of the nose instead of beneath it, as in the gorilla, and the

majority have long prehensile tails. They are inferior in rank to the

anthropoids of the Old World, though superior to the lemurs of

Madagascar. They are usually grouped in two families--Marmosets and

Cebidre. The former are restless, timid, squirrel-like lilliputs (one

species is only seven inches long), with tails not prehensile--in the

case of the scarlet-faced, nearly wanting. The Barigudos, or gluttons

(_Lagothrix_), are the largest of American monkeys, but are not so tall

as the Coaitas. They are found west of Manáos. They have more human

features than the other monkeys, and, with their woolly gray fur,

resemble an old negro. There are three kinds of howlers (_Mycetes_)--the

red or mono-colorado of Humboldt, the black, and the _M. beelzebub_,

found only near Pará. The forest is full of these surly, untamable

guaribas, as the natives call them. They are gifted with a voice of

tremendous power and volume, with which they make night and day hideous.

They represent the baboons of the Old World in disposition and facial

angle (30°), and the gibbons in their yells and gregarious habits.[178]

The Sapajous (_Cebus_) are distributed throughout Brazil, and have the

reputation of being the most mischievous monkeys in the country. On the

west coast of South America there are at least three or four species of

monkeys, among them a black howler and a _Cebus capucinus_. The Coitas,

or spider-monkeys, are the highest of American quadrumana. They are

slender-legged, sluggish, and thumbless, with a most perfectly

prehensile tail, terminating in a naked palm, which answers for a fifth

hand. The Indians say they walk under the limbs like the sloth. They are

the most common pets in Brazil, but they refuse to breed in captivity.

Both Coitas and Barigudos are much persecuted for their flesh, which is

highly esteemed by the Indians.

[Footnote 178: Rütimeyer has found a fossil howler in the Swiss

Jura--middle cocene.]

Mr. Bates has called our attention to the arboreal character of a large

share of the animals in the Amazonian forest. All the monkeys and bats

are climbers, and live in the trees. Nearly all the carnivores are

feline, and are therefore tree-mounters, though they lead a terrestrial

life. The plantigrade Cercoleptes has a long tail, and is entirely

arboreal. Of the edentates, the sloth can do nothing on the ground. The

gallinaceous birds, as the cigana and curassow--the pheasant and turkey

of the Amazon--perch on the trees, while the great number of arboreal

frogs and beetles is an additional proof of the adaptation of the fauna

to a forest region. Even the epiphytous plants sitting on the branches

suggest this arboreal feature in animal life.

The Andes and the Amazon; Or, Across the Continent of South America · 第 21 / 24 章