CHAPTER VI.

Astronomic Virtues of Quito.--Flora and Fauna of the Valley of

Quito.--Primeval Inhabitants of the Andes.--Quichua Indians.

Quito, with a position unparalleled for astronomical purposes, has no

observatory. The largest telescope in the city is about five feet long,

but the astute professor of natural philosophy in the Jesuit College who

has charge of it had not the most distant idea that an eclipse of the

sun would occur on the 29th of August, and an eclipse of the moon

fifteen days later. In ancient days this "holy city" had within it the

Pillar of the Sun, which cast no shadow at noon, and a temple was built

for the god of light. The title of the sovereign Inca was the Child of

the Sun; but there was very little knowledge of astronomy, for, being

the national religion, it was beyond the reach of scientific

speculation.

The atmosphere of Quito is of transparent clearness. Humboldt saw the

poncho of a horseman with the naked eye at a horizontal distance of

ninety thousand feet. The sky is of a dark indigo color; the azure is

less blended with white because of the extreme dryness of the air. The

stars stand out with uncommon brilliancy, and the dark openings between

them the great German compared to "tubes through which we look into the

remotest depths of space." It is true at Quito, as Humboldt noticed at

Cumana, that the stars do not twinkle when they are more than fifteen

degrees high; "the soft planetary light" of the stars overhead is not

mere rhetoric.

Living under the equatorial line, Quitonians enjoy the peculiar

privilege of beholding the stars of both hemispheres, the guiding stars

of Ursa Major as well as the Magellanic Clouds and Southern Cross, not

omitting that black spot near the latter, "the unappropriated region in

the skies reserved by Manager Bingham for deposed American presidents."

The zodiacal light here appears in all its glory. This strange

phenomenon has long puzzled philosophers, and they are still divided. It

is generally considered to be produced by a continuous zone of

infinitesimal asteroids. The majority place this zone beyond the orbit

of the earth, and concentric with the sun. But Rev. George Jones, of

Philadelphia, who has spent several years in observing this light,

including eight months in Quito, considers it geocentric, and possibly

situated between the earth and its satellite. At New York only a short

pyramidal light, and this only at certain seasons, is to be seen; but

here, an arch twenty degrees wide, and of considerable intensity, shoots

up to the zenith, and Mr. Jones affirms that a complete arch is visible

at midnight when the ecliptic is at right angles to the spectator's

horizon. We have not been so fortunate as to see it pass the zenith; and

Professor Barnard contends that it never does pass. We may remark that

the main part of the zodiacal light shifts to the south side of the

celestial equator as we cross the line. To us the most magnificent sight

in the tropical heavens is the "Milky Way," especially near Sobieski's

Shield, where it is very luminous. We observed that this starry tract

divided at [Greek: a] Centauri, as Herschel says, and not at [Greek: b],

as many maps and globes have it. The brightest stars in the southern

hemisphere follow the direction of a great circle passing through

[Greek: e] Orionis and [Greek: a] Crucis.

Another thing which arrests the attention of the traveler is the

comparatively well-defined boundary-line between day and night. The

twilight at Quito lasts only an hour and a half; on the coast it is

still shorter. Nor is there any "harvest moon," the satellite rising

with nearly equal intervals of forty-eight minutes.

From the stars we step down to the floral kingdom on the Andes, using as

our ladder of descent the following sentence from Humboldt, at the age

of seventy-five: "If I might be allowed to abandon myself to the

recollections of my own distant travels, I would instance among the most

striking scenes of nature the calm sublimity of a tropical night, when

the stars--not sparkling, as in our Northern skies--shed their soft and

planetary light over the gently heaving ocean; or I would recall the

deep valleys of the Cordilleras, where the tall and slender palms pierce

the leafy veil around them, and wave on high their feathery and

arrow-like branches."

Father Velasco praises Ecuador as "the noblest portion of the New

World." Nature has doubtless gifted it with capabilities unsurpassed by

those of any other country. Situated on the equinoctial line, and

embracing within its limits some of the highest as well as lowest dry

land on the globe, it presents every grade of climate, from the

perpetual summer on the coast and in the Orient to the everlasting

winter of the Andean summits, while the high plateau between the

Cordilleras enjoys an eternal spring. The vegetable productions are

consequently most varied and prolific. Tropical, temperate, and arctic

fruits and flowers are here found in profusion, or could be successfully

cultivated. As the Ecuadorian sees all the constellations of the

firmament, so Nature surrounds him with representatives of every family

of plants. There are places where the eye may embrace an entire zone,

for it may look up to a barley-field and potato-patch, and down to the

sugar-cane and pine-apple.

Confining our attention to the Quito Valley, we remark that the whole

region from Pichincha to Chimborazo is as treeless as Palestine. The

densest forest is near Baños. The most common tree is the "Aliso"

(_Betula acuminata_). Walnut is the best timber. There are no pines or

oaks.[37] The slopes of the mountains, between twelve and fifteen

thousand feet, are clothed with a shrub peculiar to the high altitudes

of the Andes, called _Chuquiragua_. This is a very valuable shrub; the

twigs are used for fuel, and the yellow buds as a febrifuge. The

castor-oil-tree grows naturally by the road side, sometimes to the

height of twelve feet.

[Footnote 37: On the Himalayas are oaks, birches, pines, chestnuts,

maples, junipers, and willows; no tree-ferns, bamboos, or palms.]

A very useful as well as the most ordinary plant in the valley is the

American aloe, or "Century Plant."[38] It is the largest of all herbs.

Not naturally social, it imparts a melancholy character to the landscape

as it rises solitary out of the arid plain. Most of the roads are fenced

with aloe hedges. While the majority of tropical trees have naked stems

with a crown of leaves on the top, the aloe reverses this, and looks

like a great chandelier as its tall peduncle, bearing greenish-yellow

flowers, rises out of a graceful cluster of long, thick, fleshy leaves.

When cultivated, the aloe flowers in much less time than a century; but,

exhausted by the efflorescence, it soon dies. Nearly every part serves

some purpose; the broad leaves are used by the poorer class instead of

paper in writing, or for thatching their huts; sirup flows out of the

leaves when tapped, and, as they contain much alkali, a soap (which

lathers with salt water as well as fresh) is also manufactured from

them; the flowers make excellent pickles; the flower-stalk is used in

building; the pith of the stem is used by barbers for sharpening razors;

the fibres of the leaves and the roots are woven into sandals and sacks;

and the sharp spines are used as needles. A species of yucca, resembling

the aloe, but with more slender leaves and of a lighter green, yields

the hemp of Ecuador.

[Footnote 38: The _Agava Americana_ of botanists, _cabulla_ of

Ecuadorians, _maguey_ of Venezuelans, and _metl_ of Mexicans. It is an

interesting fact, brought to light by the researches of Carl Neuman,

that the Chinese in the fifth century passed over to America by way of

the Aleutian Islands, and penetrated as far south as Mexico, which they

called the land of _fusung_, that being the celestial name of the aloe.

Terzozomoc, the high-priest of the ancient Mexicans, gave aloe leaves,

inscribed with sacred characters, to persons who had to journey among

the volcanoes, to protect them from injury.]

The "crack fruit" of Quito, and, in fact, of South America, is the

chirimoya.[39] Its taste is a happy mixture of sweetness and acidity.

Hanke calls it "a masterwork of Nature," and Markham pronounces it "a

spiritualized strawberry." It grows on a tree about fifteen feet high,

having a broad, flat top, and very fragrant flowers. The ripe fruit,

often attaining in Peru the weight of sixteen pounds, has a thick green

skin, and a snow-white pulp containing about seventy black seeds. Other

pomological productions are alligator pears, guavas, guayavas,

granadillas, cherries (a small black variety), peaches (very poor),

pears (equally bad), plums, quinces, lemons, oranges (not native),

blackberries, and strawberries (large, but flavorless).[40] The

cultivation of the grape has just commenced. Of vegetables there are

onions (in cookery, "the first, and last, and midst, and without end"),

beets, carrots, asparagus, lettuce, cabbages, turnips, tomatoes

(indigenous, but inferior to ours), potatoes (also indigenous, but much

smaller than their descendants),[41] red peppers, peas (always picked

ripe, while green ones are imported from France!), beans, melons,

squashes, and mushrooms. The last are eaten to a limited extent; Terra

del Fuego, says Darwin, is the only country in the world where a

cryptogamic plant affords a staple article of food.

[Footnote 39: Bollaert derives the name from _chiri_ (cold) and _muhu_

(seed).]

[Footnote 40: Dr. Jameson has found the following species of _Rubus_ in

the valley of Quito: _macrocarpus_, _stipularis_, _glabratus_,

_compactus_, _glaucus_, _rosæflorus_, _loxensis_, _urticæfolius_,

_floribundus_, and _nubigenus_. The common strawberry, _Fragaria

vesca_, grows in the valley, as also the _Chilensis_.]

[Footnote 41: Lieutenant Gilliss praises the potatoes of Peru, but we

saw no specimens in Ecuador worthy of note. The "Irish potato" is a

native of the Andes. It was unknown to the early Mexicans. It grows as

far south on this continent as lat. 50°. The Spaniards carried the

potato to Europe from Quito early in the sixteenth century. From Spain

it traveled to Italy, Belgium, and Germany. Sir Walter Raleigh imported

some from Virginia in 1586, and planted them on his estate near Cork,

Ireland. It is raised in Asiatic countries only where Europeans have

settled, and for their consumption. It is successfully grown in

Australia and New Zealand, where there is no native esculent farinaceous

root. Von Tschudi says there is no word in Quichua for potato. It is

called _papa_ by the Napos.]

The most important grains are barley, red wheat, and corn, with short

ears, and elongated kernels of divers colors. Near the coast three crops

of corn a year are obtained; at Quito it is of slower growth, but

fuller. The sugar-cane is grown sparingly in the valley, but chiefly on

the Pacific coast. Its home is Polynesia. Quito consumes about one

hundred and fifty barrels of flour daily. The best sells for four

dollars a quintal. The common fodder for cattle is alfalfa, an imported

lucerne. There is no clover except a wild, worthless, three-leaved

species (_Trifolium amabile_). Nearly all in the above list are

cultivated for home consumption only, and many valuable fruits and

vegetables which would grow well are unknown to Quitonians. As Bates

says of the Brazilians, the incorrigible nonchalance and laziness of the

people alone prevent them from surrounding themselves with all the

luxuries of a temperate as well as tropical country.

It would be an endless task to speak of the flowers. It must suffice to

state that a _Synopsis Plantarum Æquatoriensium_, the life-work of the

venerable Professor Jameson, of the University of Quito, has just been

published by the tardy government. Botanists will find in these two

small volumes many new species unknown to American science, and others

more correctly described by one who has dwelt forty years among the

Andes. The last zone of vegetation nearest the snow-line consists

chiefly of yellow-flowering _Compositæ_. In fact, this family includes

one fourth of the plants in the immediate vicinity of Quito. The next

most numerous family is the _Labiatæ_, and then follow _Leguminosæ_ and

_Gentians_. Although the _Rosaceæ_ is represented, there is not one

species of the genus _Rosa_ not even in the whole southern hemisphere.

The magnificent _Befaria_, found in the lower part of the valley, is

called "the Rose of the Andes." Fuchsias may be considered

characteristic of South America, since they are so numerous; only one or

two kinds occur in any other part of the world. Flowers are found in

Quito all the year round, but the most favorable months are December and

May. Yellow is the predominating color. The higher the altitude, the

brighter the hues of any given species. Thus the _Gentiana sedifolia_ is

a small, light blue flower in the lowlands, but on the Assuay it has

bright blue petals three times as large and sensitive. This accords with

Herschel's statement: "The chemical rays of the spectrum are powerfully

absorbed in passing through the atmosphere, and the effect of their

greater abundance aloft is shown in the superior brilliancy of color in

the flowers of Alpine regions."

America is plainly the continent of vegetation; and wherever the

vegetable element predominates, the animal is subordinated. We must not

look, therefore, for a large amount or variety of animal life in the

Ecuadorian forests. Time was when colossal megatheroids, mastodons, and

glyptodons browsed on the foliage of the Andes and the Amazon; but now

the terrestrial mammals of this tropical region are few and diminutive.

They are likewise old-fashioned, inferior in type as well as bulk to

those of the eastern hemisphere, for America was a finished continent

long before Europe. "It seems most probable (says Darwin) that the North

American elephants, mastodons, horse, and hollow-horned ruminants

migrated, on land since submerged near Behring's Straits, from Siberia

into North America, and thence, on land since submerged in the West

Indies, into South America, where for a time they mingled with the forms

characteristic of that southern continent, and have since become

extinct."[42] The rise of the Mexican table-land split up the New World

into two well-defined zoological provinces. A few species, as the puma,

peccari, and opossum, have crossed the barrier; but South America is

characterized by possessing a family of monkeys, the llama, tapir, many

peculiar rodents, and several genera of edentates.

[Footnote 42: _Journal of Researches_, p. 132.]

The tapir, the largest native quadruped, is sometimes found on the

mountains, but never descends into the Quito Valley. A link between the

elephant and hog, its true home is in the lowlands. The tapir and

peccari (also found on the Andean slopes) are the only indigenous

pachyderms in South America, while the llama[43] and deer (both

abounding in the valley) are the only native ruminants; there is not one

native hollow-horned ruminant on the continent. The llama is the only

native domesticated animal; indeed, South America never furnished any

other animal serviceable to man: the horse, ox, hog, and sheep (two,

four, and six-horned), are importations. Of these animals, which

rendered such important aid in the early civilization of Asia and

Europe, the genera even were unknown in South America four centuries

ago; and to-day pure Indians with difficulty acquire a taste for beef,

mutton, and pork. The llama is still used as a beast of burden; but it

seldom carries a quintal more than twelve miles a day. The black bear of

the Andes ascends as high as Mont Blanc, and is rarely found below three

thousand five hundred feet. The puma, or maneless American lion, has an

immense range, both in latitude and altitude, being found from Oregon to

the Straits of Magellan, and nearly up to the limit of eternal snow. It

is as cowardly as the jaguar of the lowlands is ferocious. It is a very

silent animal, uttering no cry even when wounded. Its flesh, which is

very white, and remarkably like veal in taste, is eaten in Patagonia.

Squirrels, hares, bats (a small species), opossums, and a large

guinea-pig (_Cuye del Monte_), are found in the neighborhood of Quito.

[Footnote 43: The llama, or "mountain-camel" is a beautiful animal, with

long, slender neck and fine legs, a graceful carriage, pointed ears,

soft, restless eyes, and quivering lips. It has a gentle disposition;

but when angry it will spit, and when hurt will shed tears. We have seen

specimens entirely white; but it is generally dark brown, with patches

of white. It requires very little food and drink. Since the introduction

of horses, asses, and mules, the rearing of llamas has decreased. They

are more common in Peru. The llama, guánaco, alpaca, and vicuña were

"the four sheep of the Incas:" the first clothing the common people, the

second the nobles, the third the royal governors, the fourth the Incas.

The price of sheep's wool in Quito was formerly four cents a pound; it

is now twelve.]

As only about sixty species of birds are common to North and South

America, the traveler from the United States recognizes few ornithic

forms in the Valley of Quito. Save the hummers, beautiful plumage is

rare, as well as fine songsters. But the moment we descend the Eastern

Cordillera into the interior of the continent, we find the feathered

race in robes of richest colors. The exact cause of this brilliant

coloring in the tropics is still a problem. It can not be owing to

greater light and heat, for the birds of the Galápagos Islands, directly

under the equator, are dull.[44]

[Footnote 44: Mr. Gould, however, holds that the difference of

coloration is due to the different degrees of exposure to the sun's

rays, the brilliantly-colored species being inhabitants of the edges of

the forest. Birds from Ucayali, in the centre of the continent, are far

more splendid than those which represent them in countries nearer the

sea, owing to the clearer atmosphere inland. But it is a fact, at least

exceptional to this theory, that the "Cock of the Rock" (Rupicola) on

the western side of the Andes (Esmeraldas) is of a richer, deeper color

than the same species on the eastern slope (Napo). In keeping with Mr.

Gould's theory is the statement by Mr. Bates, that the most gaudy

butterflies (the males) flutter in the sunshine.]

The males, both of birds and butterflies, are the most gaudily dressed.

In the highlands the most prominent birds are the condor and the

humming-bird. These two extremes in size are found side by side on the

summit of Pichincha. The condor appears in its glory among the mountains

of Quito. Its ordinary haunt is at the height of Etna. No other living

creature can remove at pleasure to so great a distance from the earth;

and it seems to fly and respire as easily under the low barometric

pressure of thirteen inches as at the sea-shore. It can dart in an

instant from the dome of Chimborazo to the sultry coast of the Pacific.

It has not the kingly port of the eagle, and is a cowardly robber: a

true vulture, it prefers the relish of putrescence and the flavor of

death. It makes no nest, but lays two eggs on a jutting ledge of some

precipice, and fiercely defends them. The usual spread of wings is nine

feet. It does not live in pairs like the eagle, but feeds in flocks like

its loathsome relative, the buzzard. It is said to live forty days

without food in captivity, but at liberty it is very voracious. The

usual method of capture is to kill an old mare (better than horse, the

natives say), and allow the bird to gorge himself, when he becomes so

sluggish as to be easily lassoed. It is such a heavy sleeper, it is

possible to take it from its roost. The evidences in favor of and

against its acute smelling powers are singularly balanced. For reasons

unknown, the condor does not range north of Darien, though it extends

its empire through clouds and storms to the Straits of Magellan. In the

Inca language it was called _cuntur_, and was anciently an object of

worship. The condor, gallinazo, turkey-buzzard, and caracara eagle (says

Darwin) "in their habits well supply the place of our carrion crows,

magpies, and ravens--a tribe of birds widely distributed over the rest

of the world, but entirely absent in South America." The condor appears

on the gold coins of New Granada and Chile. Of _Trochilidæ_ there are

hosts. The valley swarms with these "winged jewels" of varied hues, from

the emerald green of Pichincha to the white of Chimborazo. They build

long, purse-like nests by weaving together fine vegetable fibres and

lichens, and thickly lining them with silk-cotton. In this delicate

cradle, suspended from a branch, the female lays two eggs, which are

hatched in about twelve days. The eggs are invariably white, with one

exception, those of a species on the Upper Amazon, which are spotted.

The young have much shorter bills than their parents. The humming-bird

is exclusively American: the nearest form in the Old World is the

nectarinia, or sunbird. Other birds most commonly seen in the valley

are: _Cyanocitta turcosa_ (Jay), _Poecilothraupis atrierissa_,

_Pheuticus chrysogaster_, _Chlorospingus superciliaris_, _Buthraupis

chloronata_, _Tanagra Darwini_, _Dubusia selysia_, _Buarremon

latinuchus_, and _B. assimilis_. The only geese in the valley are a few

imported from Europe by Señor Aguirre, of Chillo, and these refuse to

propagate.

Reptiles are so rare in the highlands the class can hardly be said to be

represented. During a residence of nearly three months in the Quito

Valley we saw but one snake.[45] Nevertheless, we find the following

sentence in such a respectable book as Bohn's Hand-book of Modern

Geography: "The inhabitants of Quito are dreadfully tormented by

reptiles, which it is scarcely possible to keep out of the beds!" Of

frogs there are not enough to get up a choir, and of fishes there is

but one solitary species, about a finger long.[46] The entomology of

Quito is also brief, much to the satisfaction of travelers from the

insectiferous coast. Musquitoes and bedbugs do not seem to enjoy life at

such an altitude, and jiggers[47] and flies are rare. Fleas, however,

have the hardihood to exist and bite in the summer months, and if you

attend an Indian fair you will be likely to feel something "gently o'er

you creeping." But fleas and lice are the only blood-thirsty animals, so

that the great Valley of Quito is an almost painless paradise. Of

beetles and butterflies there are a few species, the latter belonging

for the most part to the familiar North American genera _Pyrameis_ and

_Colias_. At Vinces, on the coast, we found the pretty brown butterfly,

_Anartia Jatrophæ_, which ranges from Texas to Brazil. A light-colored

coleopter is eaten roasted by the inhabitants. The cochineal is raised

in the southern part of the valley, particularly in Guananda, at the

foot of Tunguragua, where the small, flat-leaved cactus (_Opuntia

tuna_), on which, the insect feeds, is extensively cultivated. The male

is winged, but the female is stationary, fixed to the cactus, and is of

a dark brown color. It takes seventy thousand to make a pound, which is

sold in the valley for from sixty cents to $3. The best cochineal comes

from Teneriffe, where it was introduced from Honduras in 1835. The

silk-worm is destined to work a revolution in the finances of Ecuador;

Quito silk gained a gold medal at the Paris Exhibition. No bees are

hived in the republic; the people seem to be content with treacle. The

Italian species would undoubtedly thrive here. The bees of Ecuador, like

all the bees of the New World, are inferior to those of the Old World.

Their cells are not perfectly hexagonal, and their stings are

undeveloped. They are seldom seen feeding on flowers. Mollusca in the

Quito Valley are not great in number or variety. They belong principally

to the genera _Bulimus_, _Cyclostoma_, and _Helix_. The first is as

characteristic of the Southern Continent as _Helix_ of the North and

_Achatina_ of Africa.

[Footnote 45: _Herpetodryas carinatus_, which we observed also at

Guayaquil and on the Marañon. We procured two or three species from the

natives, and several new forms from Pallatanga, on the west slope.]

[Footnote 46: _Antelopus lævis_ at Ambato, and _A. longirostris_, a new

species from Antisana Hacienda, were the only frogs noticed. The little

fish is _Pimelodes cyclopum_ (preñadilla of the Spaniards, _imba_ of the

Indians), the same that was thrown out in the eruptions of Imbabura and

Caraguairazo.]

[Footnote 47: The jigger, chigoe, or nigua (_Pulex penetrans_ of

science) is a microscopic flea, that buries itself under the skin and

lays a myriad eggs; the result is a painful tumor. Jiggers are almost

confined to sandy places.]

From the animal creation we mount by a short step to the imbruted

Indian. When and by whom the Andes were first peopled is a period of

darkness that lies beyond the domain of history. But geology and

archæology are combining to prove that Sorata and Chimborazo have looked

down upon a civilization far more ancient than that of the Incas, and

perhaps coeval with the flint-flakes of Cornwall, and the shell-mounds

of Denmark. On the shores of Lake Titicaca are extensive ruins which

antedate the advent of Manco Capac, and may be as venerable as the

lake-dwellings of Geneva. Wilson has traced six terraces in going up

from the sea through the province of Esmeraldas toward Quito; and

underneath the living forest, which is older than the Spanish invasion,

many gold, copper, and stone vestiges of a lost population were found.

In all cases these relics are situated below high-tide mark, in a bed of

marine sediment, from which he infers that this part of the country

formerly stood higher above the sea. If this be true, vast must be the

antiquity of these remains, for the upheaval and subsidence of the coast

is exceedingly slow.

Philology can aid us little in determining the relations of the primeval

Quitonians, for their language is nearly obscured by changes introduced

by the Caras, and afterward by the Incas, who decreed that the Quichua,

the language of elegance and fashion three hundred years ago, should be

the universal tongue throughout the empire.[48] Quichua is to-day spoken

from the equator to 28° S. (except by the Aymará people), or by nearly a

million and a half. We found it used, corrupted, however, by Spanish, at

the month of the Napo. There are five dialects, of which the purest is

spoken in Cuzco, and the most impure in Quito. The Indians of the

northern valley are descendants of the ancient Quitus, modified by Cara

and Peruvian blood. They have changed little since the invasion of

Pizarro. They remember their glory under the Incas, and when they steal

any thing from a white man, they say they are not guilty of theft, as

they are only taking what originally belonged to them. Some see in their

sacred care of Incarial relics a lingering hope to regain their

political life. We noticed that the pure mountaineers, without a trace

of Spanish adulteration, wore a black poncho underneath, and we were

informed by one well acquainted with their customs that this was in

mourning for the Inca. We attended an Indian masquerade dance at

Machachi, which seemed to have an historical meaning. It was performed

in full view of that romantic mountain which bears the name of the last

captain of Atahuallpa. There is a tradition that after the death of his

chief, Rumiñagui burned the capital, and, retiring with his followers to

this cordillera, threw himself from the precipice. The masquerade at

Machachi was evidently intended to keep alive the memory of the Incas.

Three Indians, fantastically adorned with embroidered garments, plumed

head-dresses, and gold and silver tinsel, representing Atahuallpa and

his generals, danced to music of the rudest kind, one individual

pounding on a drum and blowing on a pipe at the same time. Before them

went three clowns, or _diablos_, with masks, fit caricatures of the

Spaniards. Like all other Indian feasts, this ended in getting gradually

and completely drunk. During the ceremony a troop of horsemen, gayly

dressed, and headed by one in regimentals with a cocked hat, galloped

twice around the Plaza, throwing oranges at the people; after which

there was a bull-bait.

[Footnote 48: "History (says Prescott) furnishes few examples of more

absolute authority than such a revolution in the language of an empire

at the bidding of a master." The pronunciation of Quichua requires a

harsh, explosive utterance. Gibbon says the sound of it to him resembled

Welsh or Irish; that of Aymará, English. The letters _b_, _d_, _f_, _g_,

and _o_ are wanting in the ancient tongue of Quito; _p_ was afterward

changed to _b_, _t_ to _d_, _v_ to _f_, _c_ to _g_, and _u_ to _o_: thus

Chim-pu-razu is now Chimborazo. A few words bear a striking analogy to

corresponding Sanscrit words; as _Ynti_, the Inca for sun, and _Indra_,

the Hindoo god of the heavens.]

The features of the Quichuans have a peculiar cast, which resembles, in

D'Orbigny's opinion, no other American but the Mexican, and some

ethnologists trace a striking similarity to the natives of Van Diemen's

Land. They have an oblong head (longitudinally), somewhat compressed at

the sides and occiput; short and very slightly arched forehead;

prominent, long, aquiline nose, with large nostrils; large mouth, but

not thick lips; beautiful enduring teeth; short chin, but not receding;

cheek-bones not prominent; eyes horizontal, and never large; eyebrows

long; thick, straight, coarse, yet soft jet black hair; little or no

beard; a long, broad, deep, highly-arched chest; small hands and feet;

short stature, seldom reaching five feet, and the women still shorter; a

mulatto color (olive-brown says D'Orbigny, bronze says Humboldt), and a

sad, serious expression. Their broad chests and square shoulders remind

one of the gorilla; but we find that, unlike the anthropoid ape, they

have very weak arms; their strength lies in their backs and legs. They

have shrewdness and penetration, but lack independence and force. We

never heard one sing.[49] Always submissive to your face, taking off

his hat as he passes, and muttering, "Blessed be the altar of God," he

is nevertheless very slow to perform. Soured by long ill treatment, he

will hardly do any thing unless he is compelled. And he will do nothing

well unless he is treated as a slave. Treat him kindly, and you make him

a thief; whip him, and he will rise up to thank you and he your humble

servant. A certain curate could never trust his Indian to carry

important letters until he had given him twenty-five lashes. Servile and

timid, superstitious and indolent, the Quichuans have not half the

spirit of our North American Indians. It has passed into a proverb that

"the Indian lives without shame, eats without repugnance, and dies

without fear." Abject as they are, however, they are not wholly without

wit. By a secret telegraph system, they will communicate between Quito

and Riobamba in one hour. When there was a battle in Pasto, the Indians

of Riobamba knew of it two hours after, though eighty leagues distant.

[Footnote 49: Their favorite musical instrument is the _rondador_, a

number of reeds of different lengths tied in a row. The "plaintive

national songs" which Markham heard at Cuzco are not sung in Ecuador.]

The civilization of South America three centuries ago was nearly

confined to this Andean family, though they had attained only to the

bronze period. In the milder character of their ancient religion and

gentleness of disposition they are strongly distinguished from the

nations that encircled the vale of Anahuac, the centre of civilization

on the northern continent. But little of this former glory is now

apparent. The Incas reached an astronomical knowledge which astonished

the Spaniards, but the Quichuans of to-day count vaguely by moons and

rains. Great is the contrast between the architecture of this century

and that in the days of Huayna-Capac. There are few Incarial relics,

however, in the Valley of Quito, for the Incas ruled there only half a

century. The chief monuments are the tolas or mounds (mostly at

Cuenca), containing earthen vessels and bronze hatchets and earrings;

the _Inga-pirrca_, or oval fortress, and the _Intihuaicu_, or temple of

the sun, near Cañar; the _Inga-chungana_, a massive stone resembling a

sofa, where the Inca reposed to enjoy the delightful prospect over the

Valley of Gulán; and remnants of causeways and roads.

The Andes and the Amazon; Or, Across the Continent of South America · 第 6 / 24 章