Chapter XV -- Mountain Rides

An incident about “Traveller”--The General’s love for children--His

friendship with Ex-President Davis--A ride with his daughter to the

Peaks of Otter--Mildred Lee’s narrative--Mrs. Lee at the White Sulphur

Springs--The great attention paid her husband there--His idea of life

Since the arrival of “Lucy Long” my father was generally accompanied by

one of my sisters in his rides, whenever the weather and the condition

of the roads admitted of their going. It took very severe weather to

keep him in, though often he could not spare the time, for during the

winter months the days were very short. Every Monday afternoon there was

a faculty meeting, and the vestry meetings of his church were held two

or three times a month. Whenever I was in Lexington I rode with him, and

when he was prevented by any of the above-mentioned causes he would ask

me to take Traveller out and give him a gallop, which I was delighted

to do, and I think I had my revenge for his treatment of me on that

ride from Orange to Fredericksburg in the winter of 1862. My father’s

affection for his horses was very deep and strong. In a letter written

from the Springs one summer, to his clerk in Lexington, he says:

“How is Traveller? Tell him I miss him dreadfully, and have repented of

our separation but once--and that is the whole time since we parted.”

I think Traveller appreciated his love and sympathy, and returned it

as much as was in a horse’s nature to do. As illustrative of this

bond between them, a very pretty story was told me by Mrs. S. P. Lee

[Daughter of General W. N. Pendleton, Chief of Artillery of the A. N.

Va., and widow of Colonel Edwin Grey Lee, C. S. A.]:

“One afternoon in July of this year, the General rode down to the

canal-boat landing to put on board a young lady who had been visiting

his daughters and was returning home. He dismounted, tied Traveller to

a post, and was standing on the boat making his adieux, when some one

called out that Traveller was loose. Sure enough, the gallant gray was

making his way up the road, increasing his speed as a number of boys and

men tried to stop him. My father immediately stepped ashore, called to

the crowd to stand still, and advancing a few steps gave a peculiar low

whistle. At the first sound, Traveller stopped and pricked up his ears.

The General whistled a second time, and the horse with a glad whinny

turned and trotted quietly back to his master, who patted and coaxed

him before tying him up again. To a bystander expressing surprise at the

creature’s docility the General observed that he did not see how any

man could ride a horse for any length of time without a perfect

understanding being established between them. My sister Mildred, who

rode with him constantly this summer, tells me of his enjoyment of their

long rides out into the beautiful, restful country. Nothing seemed to

delight him so much.

“I have often known him to give rein to Traveller and to at full speed

to the top of some long hill, then turn and wait for me jogging along on

Lucy, calling out with merry voice, ‘Come along, Miss Lucy, Miss Lucy,

Lucy Long!’ He would question the country people about the roads, where

they came from, where they led to, and soon knew every farmer’s name and

every homestead in the country. He often said:

“‘I wish I had a little farm of my own, where we could live in peace to

the end of our days. You girls could attend to the dairy and the cows

and the sheep and wait on your mother and me, for it is time now for us

old people to rest and for the young people to work.’”

All the children in the country around were devoted to him, and felt no

hesitation in approaching him, after they once knew him. He used to meet

his favourites among the little ones on the street, and would sometimes

lift them up in front of him to give them a ride on Traveller. That was

the greatest treat he could provide. There is a very pretty story told

of Virginia Lee Letcher, his god-daughter, and her baby sister, Fannie,

which is yet remembered among the Lexington people. Jennie had

been followed by her persistent sister, and all the coaxing and the

commanding of the six-year-old failed to make the younger return home.

Fannie had sat down by the roadside to pout, when General Lee came

riding by. Jeannie at once appealed to him:

“General Lee, won’t you please make this child go home to her mother?”

The General immediately rode over to where Fannie sat, leaned over

from his saddle and drew her up into his lap. There she sat in royal

contentment, and was thus grandly escorted home. When Mrs. Letcher

inquired of Jennie why she had given General Lee so much trouble, she

received the naive reply:

“I couldn’t make Fan go home, and I thought HE could do anything.”

[Daughters of Governor John Letcher--the War Governor of Virginia]

There was a little boy living with his mother, who had come from New

York. His father had been killed in our army. The little fellow, now

Colonel Grier Monroe, of New York city, was much teased at his playmates

calling him “Yankee” when he knew he was not one. One day he marched

into my father’s office in the college, stated his case, and asked for

redress.

“The next boy that calls you ‘Yankee’ send him to me,” said the General,

which, when reported, struck such terror into the hearts of his small

comrades that the offense was never repeated.

There was another little boy who was accustomed to clamber up by the

side of my father at the morning chapel exercises, and was so kindly

treated that, whenever he saw his distinguished friend, he straightway

assumed a position beside him. At the college commencement, which was

held in the chapel, the little fellow glided from his mother’s side and

quietly stole up to the platform. Soon he was nestled at the feet of

the dignified president, and, resting his head upon his knees, dropped

asleep. General Lee tenderly remained without moving, preferring to

suffer from the constrained position rather than disturb the innocent

slumberer. This boy is now the Reverend Carter Jones of he Baptist

Church.

About this time Ex-President Davis was freed from the confinement of his

prison at Fortress Monroe, where he had been for about two years. There

was a warm personal friendship between these two men, dating from the

time they were cadets at West Point together, and as his unjust and

unnecessary imprisonment had pained and distressed none more than my

father, so his release gave him corresponding joy. He at once wrote to

him the following letter, full of feeling and sympathy:

“Lexington, Virginia, June 1, 1867.

“Honourable Jefferson Davis.

“My Dear Mr. Davis: You can conceive better than I can express the

misery which your friends have suffered from your long imprisonment,

and the other afflictions incident thereto. To no one has this been more

painful than to me, and the impossibility of affording relief has added

to my distress. Your release has lifted a load from my heart which I

have not words to tell. My daily prayer to the great Ruler of the world

is that He may shield you from all future harm, guard you from all evil,

and give you that peace which the world cannot take away. That the rest

of your days may be triumphantly happy is the sincere and earnest wish

of

“Your most obedient, faithful friend and servant,

“R. E. Lee.”

Though my father would take no part in the politics of the country, and

rarely expressed his views on questions of that nature then occupying

the minds of all, nevertheless, when he deemed it necessary, and to

the proper person, he very plainly said what he thought. The following

letter to General Longstreet, in answer to one from him written about

this time, illustrates what I have said in this connection, and explains

itself:

“Lexington, Virginia, October 29, 1867.

“General J. Longstreet, 21 Carondelet Street, New Orleans, La.

“My Dear General: When I received your letter of the 8th of June, I had

just returned from a short trip to Bedford County, and was preparing for

a more extended visit to the White Sulphur Springs for the benefit of

Mrs. Lee’s health. As I could not write such a letter as you desired,

and as you stated that you would leave New Orleans for Mexico in a week

from the time you wrote, to be absent some months, I determined to delay

my reply till my return. Although I have been here more than a month,

I have been so occupied by necessary business, and so incommoded by the

effects of an attack of illness, from which I have not yet recovered,

that this is the first day that I have been able to write to you. I have

avoided all discussion of political questions since the cessation of

hostilities, and have, in my own conduct, and in my recommendations to

others, endeavoured to conform to existing circumstances. I consider

this the part of wisdom, as well as of duty; but, while I think we

should act under the law and according to the law imposed upon us, I

cannot think the course pursued by the dominant political party the best

for the interests of the country, and therefore cannot say so or give it

my approval. This is the reason why I could not comply with the request

in your letter. I am of the opinion that all who can should vote for

the most intelligent, honest, and conscientious men eligible to office,

irrespective of former party opinions, who will endeavour to make

the new constitutions and the laws passed under them as beneficial as

possible to the true interests, prosperity, and liberty of all classes

and conditions of the people. With my best wishes for your health and

happiness, and my kindest regards to Mrs. Longstreet and your children,

I am, with great regard, and very truly and sincerely yours,

“R. E. Lee.”

This summer my father paid a visit to the Peaks of Otter, a famous

group of mountains in the Blue Ridge range, situated in Bedford County,

Virginia. He rode Traveller, and my sister Mildred accompanied him on

“Lucy Long.” After visiting the Peaks and ascending the summit, which is

4,000 feet in height, he rode on to Liberty, now Bedford City, ten miles

distant, and spent the night at “Avenel,” the home of the Burwells, who

were friends and connections of his.

From there the riding party went to Captain Bufurd’s, about twelve miles

distant, where they spent the night and the next day. The Captain was

a farmer, a great admirer and a staunch upholder of his native State,

Viriginia, in her fight for constitutional liberty, from ‘61 to ‘65. He

had sent his sons into the army, and had given of his substance freely

to support the troops, as well as the poor and needy, the widow and

orphan, who had been left in want by the death in battle of their

natural protectors and by the ravages of war. In the early years of the

struggle, my mother and sisters, when “refugeeing,” had boarded, as they

thought and intended at the time, at his home. But when they tried to

induce him to accept pay for the shelter and food he had given them for

a month or more, he sternly refused. His was a patriotism that hesitated

at no sacrifice, and was of a kind and character that admitted of no

self-consideration. This trait, so strongly developed in him, attracted

the admiration and respect of my father. The visit he paid him was to

thank him in person for the kindness extended to his wife and daughters,

and also for a very large and handsome horse which he had sent my father

the last year, I think, of the war. My sister Mildred tells me what she

can recollect of this ride. It is a source of endless regret to us that

we cannot recall more. His championship was at all times delightful

to his children, and on an occasion of this kind, invigorated by the

exercise, inspired by the bright skies and relieved of all harassing

cares, he became almost a boy again.

My sister Mildred says:

“We started at daybreak one perfect June day, papa on Traveller, I on

Lucy Long, our saddle-bags being our only luggage. He was in the gayest

humour, laughing and joking with me as I paced along by his side on

quiet ‘Miss Lucy.’ Traveller seemed to sympathise with his master, his

springy step, high head, and bright eye clearly showing how happy he was

and how much interest he took in this journey. He had to be constantly

chided for his restlessness, and was told that it would be well for him

to reserve some of his too abundant energy for the latter part of his

trip. At midday we dismounted, and, tying our horses while resting on

the soft grass under a wild-plum hedge by the roadside, ate our lunch.

We then rode on, and soon came to the James River, which was crossed by

a ferry-boat. The ferry-man was an old soldier, who of course recognised

papa, and refused payment; nor could he be induced to take any. Further

on the road, as our horses were climbing a steep rocky ascent, we met

some little children, with very dirty faces, playing on the roadside.

He spoke to them in his gentle, playful way, alluding to their faces

and the desirability of using a little water. They stared at us with

open-eyed astonishment, and then scampered off up the hill; a few

minutes later, in rounding this hill, we passed a little cabin, when

out they all ran with clean faces, fresh aprons, and their hair nicely

brushed, one little girl exclaiming, ‘We know you are General Lee! we

have got your picture!’

“That night about nine o’clock we reached the little mountain inn at the

foot of the Peaks, ate a hearty supper, and soon went to bed, tired out

by our thirty-mile ride. Our bedrooms seemed to be a loft, and the beds

were of feathers, but I, at last, slept without turning. Next morning,

at dawn of day, we set out, accompanied by the master of the house, and

rode for a long time up the mountain-side, Lucy following closely behind

Traveller. Finally it became impossible to proceed further on horseback,

so the horses were fastened to some trees and we climbed the rest of the

way to the summit on foot. When the top was reached, we sat for a long

time on a great rock, gazing down on the glorious prospect beneath. Papa

spoke but a few words, and seemed very sad. I have heard there is now a

mark on the rock showing where we sat. The inn-keeper, who accompanied

us all the way, told us that we had ridden nearer the top than any

other persons up to that time. Regaining our horses, we proceeded on

our second day’s journey, which was to end at Liberty, some ten miles

distant.

“We had not ridden far, when suddenly a black thunder-cloud arose and

in a few minutes a heavy shower broke over us. We galloped back to a log

cabin we had just passed. Papa lifted me off of Lucy and, dripping with

water, I rushed in, while he led the horse under an adjacent shed, the

woman of the house looked dark and glum on seeing the pools of water

forming from my dress on her freshly scoured floor, and when papa came

in with his muddy boots her expression was more forbidding and gloomy.

He asked her permission to wait there until the shower was over, and

praised her nice white floor, regretting that we had marred its beauty.

At this praise, so becomingly bestowed, she was slightly appeased, and

asked us into the best room, which was adorned with colored prints of

Lee, Jackson, Davis, and Johnston. When the shower ceased and papa went

out for the horses I told her who I was. Poor woman! She seemed stunned

and kept on saying: ‘What will Joe say? What will Joe say!’ Joe was her

husband, and had been, like every other man in the country, a soldier in

the ‘Army of Northern Virginia.’

“The shower over and the sun shining brightly, we rode along joyously

through the refreshed hills and dust-laid roads arriving at Liberty in

good time, and went to ‘Avenel,’ the pretty home of the Burwells. The

comforts of this sweet old place seemed very delicious to me after my

short experience of roughing it. Papa was much amused when I appeared

in crinoline, my ‘hoops’ having been squeezed into the saddle-bags and

brought with me. We remained here the next day, Sunday, and the day

after rode on some twelve miles to Captain Buford’s. The Captain, in his

shirt-sleeves, received us with open arms, seemed much surprised at my

full growth, and said, ‘Why, General, you called her your ‘little girl,’

and she is a real chuck of a gal!’ He showed us his fine Jersey cattle,

his rich fields and well-filled barns, and delighted in talking of the

time during the war when mama, Mary, and Agnes paid him a visit. He

overflowed with kindness and hospitality, and his table fairly groaned

with the good things. Papa afterwards constantly quoted his original

sayings, especially one on early rising, which was made on the eve of

our arrival, when he told us good-night. Papa asked him what time he

must be ready for breakfast next morning.

“‘Well, General,’ said the Captain, ‘as you have been riding hard, and

as you are company, we will not have breakfast to-morrow until sun-up,’

which meant in those June days somewhere before five o’clock.

“After a day spent pleasantly here, we started next morning early on

our return. Halting for a short time in Buchanan, we stopped at Colonel

Edmund Pendleton’s who then lived there in an imposing white pillared

edifice, formerly a bank. Mrs. Pendelton gave us some delicious apricots

from her garden, which my father enjoyed greatly. We then proceeded on

the road to Lexington, going by the Natural Bridge, where we had another

short rest, and reached home the same night, about ten o’clock, after a

forty-mile ride.

“Shortly after this visit Captain Bufurd sent me a fine Jersey cow, on

condition that I would get up early every morning and milk her, and also

send him a part of the butter I made.”

After my father returned from this trip, he began his arrangements for

taking my mother to the Greenbriar White Sulphur Springs. He hoped that

the waters and the change might be of service to her general health,

even if they should not alleviated the severity of her rheumatic

pains. About the first of July, my mother, sister Agnes and Miss Mary

Pendleton, with my brother Custis in charge, set out for the White

Sulphur Springs. My father, with Professor J. J. White, decided to

make the journey to the same place on horseback. They started a day in

advance and were at Covington when the ladies, travelling by stage-coach

to Goshen, thence by rail, arrived there. After spending the night at

Covington, the passengers were put into as many stage-coaches as were

necessary, and the long, rough drive over the mountains by “Callahan’s”

commenced.

General Lee on Traveller was at once recognised, and when it was found

out by his fellow-travellers that Mrs. Lee was with him, attentions and

services of all kinds were pressed on her party, and a most enjoyable

lunch was sent to the stage reserved for her. Seeing that the other

stages were much crowded, while the one reserved for his wife had vacant

seats, my father insisted that some of the others should join his party,

which they very gladly did. He and Professor White went ahead of the

stages on their horses.

At the White Sulphur Springs the “Harrison cottage,” in “Baltimore Row,”

had been put at my father’s disposal, and the entire party was soon

most pleasantly established there. Mr. W. W. Corcoran, of Washington,

Professor White, Miss Mary Pendleton, Agnes and my father and brother

had a table together. Almost every day some special dainty was sent to

this table. My mother, of course, had her meals served in her cottage.

Her faithful and capable servant, Milly Howard, was always most eager

for her to appear her best, and took great pride in dressing her up, so

far as she was allowed, in becoming caps, etc., to receive her numerous

visitors. My father’s usual custom while there was to spend some time in

the morning in the large parlour of the hotel, before taking his ride

on Traveller. After dinner he went again to the parlour, and also after

tea.

Among the company were many old friends and acquaintances from

Baltimore, who could not sufficiently testify their pleasure in this

renewal of intercourse. Whenever he appeared in the parlour or ballroom

he was the centre of attraction, and in vain the young men tried to

engage the attention of the young ladies when General Lee was present.

During his visit, a circus came to “Dry Creek,” a neighbouring

settlement, and gave an exhibition. The manager rode over to the

Springs, came to my father’s cottage, and insisted on leaving several

tickets, begging that General Lee would permit him to send carriages for

him and any friends he might like to take to his show. These offers my

father courteously declined, but bought many tickets, which he presented

to his little friends at the Springs.

During the morning he rode over to “Dry Creek,” where the crowds of

country people, many of them his old soldiers, feasted their eyes on him

to the neglect of the circus. That night a special exhibition was given

by the manager to General Lee’s friends, who were taken to seats draped

with Confederate colors, red, and white. After the return from the

circus, my father invited a large party to his cottage to partake of a

huge watermelon sent him by express from Mobile. It weighed about sixty

pounds, and its producer thought the only fitting way he could dispose

of it was to present it to General Lee.

Every possible attention that love, admiration, and respect could

prompt was paid my father by the guests at the Springs, each one seeming

anxious to do him homage. My mother and sisters shared it all with him,

for any attention and kindness shown them went straight to his heart.

After spending three weeks at “the White,” my father’s party went to the

Old Sweet Springs, where they were all made very comfortable, one of

the parlours being turned into a bedroom for my mother, so that in her

wheeled chair she could go out on the verandas and into the ballroom.

He was taken quite sick there, and, though he rode over from the White

Sulphur Springs, was unable to continue his early rides for some time.

His room was on the first floor, with a window opening on the end of the

building. One morning, when he was very unwell and it was important that

he should not be disturbed, Miss Pendleton found a countryman cautiously

opening the shutters from the outside. She quickly interfered, saying:

“Go away; that is General Lee’s room.”

The man dropped back, saying mournfully:

“I only wanted to see him.”

On another occasion some country people came to the Springs with plums

and berries for sale. Catching sight of him on the piazza, they put down

their baskets, took off their hats, and hurrahed most lustily for “Marse

Bob”. They were his old soldiers. When he acknowledged their loyalty

by shaking hands with them, they insisted on presenting him with their

fruit.

About the first week in September my father rode back to Lexington on

Traveller, Custis taking my mother and Agnes back over the same tedious

journey by stage and rail.

There have been preserved very few letters from him at this time. I

found one to me, full of kindness, wholesome advice, and offers of aid,

in which he sends his thanks to the President of the York River Railroad

for a courtesy tendered him:

“White Sulphur Springs, Greenbriar County, West Virginia,

“August 5, 1867.

“My Dear Son: I received to-day your letter of the 28th ult., inclosing

a free ticket over the Richmond & York River Railroad, from its

president, Mr. Dudley. Please present him my grateful thanks for this

mark of his esteem. I am very glad to hear that the road is completed

to the White House, and that a boat connects it with Norfolk, the

convenience of the community and the interests of the road will be

promoted thereby. It is a difficult undertaking in these times to build

a road, and I hope the company will soon be able to finish it to West

Point. I suppose you have received before this the letter from your

mother and Agnes, announcing our arrival at this place and informing

you of the company. The latter has been much increased, and among the

arrivals are the Daingerfields, Haxalls, Capertons, Miss Belle Harrison,

etc., etc. I told Agnes to tell you how much we wished you were with us,

and as an inducement for you to join us, if you could leave home, if you

would come, I would pay your expenses. I feel very sensibly, in my old

age, the absence of my children, though I recognise the necessity of

every one’s attending to his business, and admire him the more for so

doing. I am very glad that you and Fitzhugh have, so far, escaped the

fever, and hope you may avoid it altogether. Be prudent. I am very sorry

that your harvest promises a poor yield. It will be better next year,

but you must continue systematically the improvement of the land. I know

of no better method than by liming, and if you wish to prosecute it, and

are in need of help, I will aid you to the extent of last year or more.

So make your arrangements, and let me know your wishes. A farmer’s life

is one of labour, but it is also one of pleasure, and the consciousness

of steady improvement, though it may be slow, is very encouraging. I

think you had better also begin to make arrangements to build yourself a

house. If you can do nothing more than prepare a site, lay out a garden,

orchard, etc., and get a small house partly finished, so as to inhabit

it, it will add to your comfort and health. I can help you in that too.

Think about it. Then, too, you must get a nice wife. I do not like you

being so lonely. I fear you will fall in love with celibacy. I have

heard some very pleasing reports of Fitzhugh. I hope that his desires,

if beneficial to his happiness, may be crowned with success. I saw the

lady when I was in Petersburg, and was much pleased with her. I will get

Agnes or your mother to tell you what occurs at the Springs. There are

some 500 people here, very pleasant and kind, but most of my time is

passed alone with Traveller in the mountains. I hope your mother may

derive some benefit from the waters, but I see none now. It will, at

least, afford her some variety, and give her some pleasure, of which

there is a dearth with us now. Give much love to Fitzhugh. All unite in

love to you. God bless you, my son, prays

“Your affectionate father,

“R. E. Lee.”

Early in September my father sent my mother sister home to Lexington,

while he mounted Traveller and rode back by way of the Hot Springs,

Healing, and Rockbridge Alum. He was detained by indisposition a day

or two at the Healing, and writes to my mother a little note from that

place:

“Healing Springs, September 12, 1867.

“My Dear Mary: I arrived here on the 10th, and had expected to resume my

journey this morning, but did not feel able. Should nothing prevent, I

will leave here to-morrow, but I fear I shall not be able to reach the

Rockbridge Alum, which I am told is twenty-nine miles distant. In that

event, I will halt on the road, and arrive there on Saturday, lie over

Sunday, and reach Lexington on Monday. I am very anxious to get to

Lexington, and think nothing on the route will benefit me, as I feel

much concerned about the resumption of the college exercises. Mr. John

Stewart, Misses Mary and Marian, Mr. Price, and his daughters came over

from the Hot yesterday to see me. The Stewarts are there on Miss Belle’s

account. Give much love to everybody. I hope you reached Lexington

safely and comfortably and that all are well. I hope to see you Monday.

Till then, farewell.

“Very truly and affectionately,

“R. E. Lee.”

It is to be regretted that we have no accounts of these rides, the

people he met, and what he said to them, where he stayed, and who were

his hosts. He was very fond of horseback journeys, enjoyed the quiet

and rest, the freedom of mind and body, the close sympathy of his old

warhorse, and the beauties of Nature which are to be seen at every turn

in the mountains of Virginia. Ah, if we could only obtain some records

of his thoughts as he rode all alone along the mountain roads, how much

it would help us all in our trials and troubles! He was a man of few

words, very loath to talk about himself, nor do I believe any one ever

knew what that great heart suffered. His idea of life was to do his

duty, at whatever cost, and to try to help others to theirs.

Recollections and Letters of General Robert E. Lee · 第 15 / 24 章