Late fanaticism of the people of Damascus. Change. Mr. Farrah’s
house. Agreeable disappointment. Costume of the natives. The Cobcob.
Mr. Farran, the English Consul General. Visit to the palaces. Palaces
of Abdallah Bey, &c. Official visit to the Governor, Sheriff Pasha.
Handsome reception. Promises of the Pasha with respect to Americans
in Syria. Mr. Farran’s beautiful country residence. Bazaars. Damascus
blades--not to be had. Departure from the city. Night at Mr. Farran’s.
Having rested by a stream at the edge of the gardens till our
straggling party had all come up, we passed on, and entering one
of the city gates, were soon in a labyrinth of bazaars and narrow
streets. Our large cavalcade attracted considerable attention as we
rode unceremoniously along, our baggage mules frequently brushing the
natives and forcing for themselves a wide passage amid the crowds. Many
looks of dark and angry import were turned upon us, but no one offered
any molestation; and with the exception of their scowling looks, they
were sufficiently respectful. It was only about a year before this
that De La Martine, on approaching the city, found it advisable to
stop at one of the neighboring villages, and change his European for
the Turkish dress. The iron hand of the Egyptian Pasha, wherever it
lights, makes itself felt. It is now as safe to travel in Egypt as
in our own country; and will soon be so in Palestine, and also about
Damascus, which, until quite lately, was, and indeed probably still
is, one of the most fanatical cities in the world. In this city there
has already been a surprising change. During our visit we went freely
among the bazaars, sometimes all in company, and sometimes in small
parties or singly; and though attracting such crowds that the streets
were often actually blocked up, and it was difficult for the citizens
to get along, all were respectful; nor, as far as we know, was even an
opprobrious epithet ever used.
The Armenian gentleman who had been our companion in the journey,
had offered the hospitality of his house, and now led us on through
the city for nearly a mile, when at length we came to a stand. We
were in a street, narrow like all the rest, (the bazaars excepted,)
and alongside of a house that seemed to give promise of nothing but
poverty. Its exterior was rough and coarse; and the walls bulging
out here and there, looked as if waiting to tumble on our heads and
crush us, rather than to give us shelter. We entered by a low narrow
door into a passage, also narrow and dark; and great indeed was our
surprise at the scene which broke upon us when we reached its further
end. We afterwards visited all the celebrated palaces of the city, and
found the exterior of all of them of a character similar to this. On
the outside they are coarse and wretched looking buildings, seemingly
ready to crumble and fall to pieces; and the appearance of poverty is
probably intentional, in order to save the inmates from the exactions
of an arbitrary and oppressive government. But for this, ample amends
are made in the interior.
The edifice into which we were now introduced formed a hollow square;
the open space within being occupied by a court, about fifty feet by
forty, all paved with variegated marbles. In the centre of this was
a square fountain, fourteen or fifteen feet on each side, and rising
about two feet above the pavement. It was filled with gold and silver
fishes, and was lined all around with vases or pots with flowers. At
the further end of the court, the pavement rose, and here was a recess
occupying nearly the whole width of the court, and about ten feet
in depth. It was fronted by a lofty pointed arch, richly ornamented
with arabesques cut in stone, or painted in a great variety of gay
colors. The back and sides of the recess were enriched in a similar
manner, every part of them being covered either with arabesques or with
parallel stripes of gay colors, either in horizontal, or in zigzag or
waving lines. I must except one or two compartments or raised pannels
on each side, with rich borders to them; the pannels were occupied by
stanzas of Arabic poetry in large letters, either cut into relief,
or done with paint. At the back of the recess was a broad luxurious
ottoman.
This lofty and magnificent recess, whose effect, apparently unstudied,
is yet very striking, meets us at once on emerging from the dark
passage, and gives us our first impression of the building; but as we
advance towards it a new candidate for our admiration is presented on
our left. Just before reaching the angle of the court which adjoins the
recess, we come to a door-way, which is ornamented, but has no very
remarkable pretensions; but as we approach, the fall of water arrests
our attention and invites us to enter; and on doing so our eagerness to
take possession of the lofty cool recess is suddenly checked. This room
is not very large, its dimensions being altogether about fifteen feet
by twenty-five; and the light is permitted to enter only in sufficient
quantity to make objects distinct. A short distance within the door
is a circular marble fountain, from the centre of which a few streaks
of water ascend up into the air, and breaking at the top, fall in a
constant shower of gems, creating a delightful coolness, and a noise
just sufficient to lull one to repose. The floor here is of tesselated
marbles; on each side are marble slabs attached to the wall, supporting
China vases and other _bijouderie_ of a similar substance. In the
window is a salver containing sherbet and confectionary, where any
person may help himself whenever his inclinations prompt, the supply
being constant but without parade. About ten feet from the door the
floor suddenly ascends about eighteen inches, and now it is covered
with the brilliant and soft carpet of Turkey or Persia; while quite
around the recess thus formed runs a broad ottoman, yet softer and
more luxurious than that of the open court. The walls of this chamber
are quite covered with arabesques, in stucco, or painted in various
colors, among which is also interspersed Arabic poetry. The ceiling is
lofty, and is of wood formed into small compartments, usually arabesque
patterns, the bottom of the pannels being often composed of mirrors.
The wood itself is colored so as to resemble japanned work of brilliant
colors.
This description will give the reader a general idea of these two
apartments. I am afraid to venture on a more minute description of
them, as his mind would only be burdened if I should attempt to give
in detail all the ornaments, the projecting cornice in the Saracenic
architecture, and the great variety of patterns and colors that decked
the sides and ceiling both of the small retired chamber or of the large
recess.
The stone walls of the open court were ornamented all around with
patterns, sometimes cut in the stone, but usually in paint of brilliant
colors,--red, blue, white, and yellow, being those chiefly employed.
Sometimes these were put on in horizontal stripes three or four inches
wide; sometimes in waving or zigzag lines, and sometimes in interlacing
circles; here and there a pannel of fanciful arabesque is introduced.
A person is very much struck with the exuberance of the eastern fancy
in these patterns, scarcely any two of them being alike; they are
generally in excellent taste.
The reader will think me describing the palace of a prince; but it was
the residence of a private gentleman--a merchant, I believe; and I have
been so minute, because it is not a palace, but one of the edifices
common among that class of persons. We saw more of them; they are all
wretched looking on the outside, but magnificent and luxurious within.
These two chambers form the “parlors” of the dwelling. At an angle
corresponding to that of the small chamber was a room of a plainer
character, used during our residence in the house as a dining-room. The
remainder of the two sides of the court was occupied by the sitting
room of the females of the family, and by entrances to the kitchen and
to the offices. Against the end of the court which faced the large
recess, two flights of broad steps ascended to the right and left, one
to the gentlemen’s, and the other to the ladies’ private apartments.
They were protected from the weather by a broad ornamented projection
of the roof. On entering our own sleeping apartment, we had before us
a passage about six feet wide, on the left of which was a platform of
small elevation divided by a projecting partition into two recesses;
while on the right was a similar recess, each of them being about
twenty feet square; along the sides were ottomans raised about six
inches from the floor, and these being at night provided with covering,
formed our beds. The sides of this room were also ornamented with
arabesques, and with a great variety of Arabic poetry.
Damascus is by far the most oriental city that I have seen, and this
may serve as a specimen of the dwellings of the wealthier class.
The ladies of Mr. Farrah’s family came forward to welcome those of our
party; we were led to our various rooms and told that they were ours;
and then the family retired; nor through the whole of our stay, though
their hospitality was unremitting, was there any parade or ostentation
of service. Our wants were all supplied, and where this was possible,
anticipated; abundant tables were spread, some gentlemen of the family
generally taking their seats at them, but seldom eating, giving quiet
attention to our wants, and as quiet orders to the servants; but no
one pressed us to eat or to drink, or spoke of the dishes, or obtruded
any thing on our notice; nor did they come themselves except when we
expressed a wish for their society. The business of the family seemed
to go on in the usual course, and the only evidence we had that our
presence was felt, was in the unostentatious supply of our necessities.
This was true hospitality; we received the most essential services,
but without their even seeming to imagine that they were conferring an
obligation, or making us feel uneasy by allowing us to see that we were
disturbing them.
The Moslem inhabitants of Damascus are like those of Turkey further
north both in their dress and habits, except that the turban is better
adjusted, and has a smarter and more dandyish look. So at least we
thought; but perhaps we should not have noticed this, if we had not
been led to expect it from a passage in some book, I believe Hope’s
Anastasius. And the ladies of the city, I suppose, would scarcely
pardon a traveller who should neglect to notice the cobcob, any more
than an American belle would excuse an eastern traveller who, in
speaking of her costume, would forget to describe the elegant bishops’
sleeves by which she adds to her arms those beautiful proportions which
stupid nature has forgotten to give her. The cobcob is a kind of--what
shall I call it?--stilt? no; this will not describe it--nor will shoe,
nor yet patten. It is a combination of the excellences of the stilt and
patten. The manufacturer takes a slip of board, which he cuts to the
shape of the foot; and across this nails an embroidered strap, through
which the foot is to be slipped, and by which it adheres; next he fits
to this board near the ends, two upright pieces about nine inches in
height, narrowed above to the width of the delicate foot, but spread
out to a breadth of eight inches at the lower extremity. The whole
is now ornamented with mother-of-pearl in fanciful patterns, and the
_cobcob_ is finished and ready for use. The height that I have given
for them is that of a pair designed for a person of the wealthier
classes; the height, however, is in proportion to the rank of the
wearer; and if the lady be of superior grade in society, she disdains
to walk with a cobcob of less than twelve inches in height; while the
vulgar have to be contented with a smaller elevation, say of five or
six inches. Slipping her feet under the strap, the Damascus belle now
rises into the proper dignity of her station, and is ready to receive
her visitors. Would it not be well for our ladies to adopt the cobcobs
as an excellent accompaniment to the bishops’ sleeves? In some of our
towns they would be of real service, as they would settle questions of
rank and precedency, by showing us at once in which class of society
the lady considers herself to rank; whether among the first, second,
or third, or only the ninth or tenth. For an _American exclusive_, we
would allow a suitable cobcob of three feet in height.
Joking aside, it was really odd enough to see the ladies of Damascus
going about their houses with this singular kind of slipper. I have
described exactly the dimensions of a pair which I purchased in a
street almost entirely devoted to the sale of them, and abounding in
them of all sizes, from the proportions here given, down to those
for a child, where the altitude is not more than a few inches. I
saw none worn in the streets: they use them in the marble courts of
their houses, in the kitchen and nursery, and in the common household
occupations.
The morning after our arrival, Mrs. Farran, the lady of the English
consul-general for Syria, did us the honor to call, and was good
enough to offer to accompany us in our visits through the city. Mr.
Farran sent a very kind message, but was unable to come himself; they
were residing at a country-seat at the foot of the mountains, and Mr.
F. having the day previous to this come to the city on business, was
attacked with a fever. Damascus, in summer, is a very unhealthy place,
and is dangerous to European constitutions. For the polite attentions
of Mr. and Mrs. F., which were unceasing during our stay, any thing
that I could say would be but a feeble acknowledgment. We had no claims
on them, not even a letter of introduction; but their politeness was
unremitting, and certainly contributed greatly to the pleasures of our
visit. Mr. Farran, I believe, was appointed to this station by his
government in consequence of its wish to open a steamboat communication
down the Euphrates with India, and by his intelligence and tact,
and the high esteem in which he is held by the Pasha of Egypt, has
very materially contributed to the success of that enterprise. Mrs.
Farran was the first lady that had ever ventured to appear here in
the European costume, and the ladies of our party were the next; lady
Franklin, who had visited the place, having, during her visit, adopted
the national dress.
Having mounted our ponies, we started, under the guidance of our polite
friend, to visit the curiosities of Damascus; and first proceeded
to the palace of Abdallah Bey, one of the wealthiest persons of the
city. His family is considered the most ancient and most noble in
Syria, and, we were informed, had the Pashalik of Damascus for 300
years. Abdallah has declined office under the Egyptian Pasha,[76] and
is now a private citizen. His palace, with the courts and gardens,
occupies a large extent of ground; but I will not fatigue the reader
with details. There are three or four distinct courts, like that of
our own residence already described, but of course much larger, and
in a style of far greater magnificence. In this palace we counted
eight fountains, several of them with jets. The Bey received us with
great politeness, and showed us through the buildings himself, after
which we were entertained with coffee, and pipes and sherbet. A hint
being here given by Mrs. F. that the strangers would be pleased if
they could see the ladies’ apartments, the old gentleman gave orders
immediately to have them cleared of his women-folks; and when this had
been done, led us through the whole establishment. As we proceeded; a
rustling and occasionally a titter behind the partitions or screens,
seemed to indicate that the females were not far off, and were amusing
themselves with watching us while they themselves were unseen. This
part of the palace is separated from the rest by a high wall, and
consists of a court, with two large fountains surrounded by orange
and lemon trees and rose bushes, a garden ornamented also with two
fountains and trees, and a range of apartments surrounding the court.
These apartments were more splendid than any others in the palace, the
architectural finishing of the chambers being of the most delicate kind
and in exquisite taste. One room, as we entered, presented a marble
fountain in the centre, in which were seven jets; and looking through
the shower of diamonds that broke from them, and fell with an unceasing
murmur into the reservoir, we saw, at the further end of the chamber, a
cascade of six or seven feet in height, the water of which was broken
up, and fell amid sculptured marble cut into a variety of fanciful
forms.
In the gentleman’s receiving rooms of the Damascus palaces is a curious
ornament. A few feet below the ceiling is a broad cornice, supported
by Saracenic sculptures running quite around the room; and ranged on
this is an unbroken line of China bowls of the largest dimensions that
it is possible to procure. The wealth of the individual is supposed to
be indicated by the number and the size of these bowls. In one palace
I counted near two hundred in a single room; they are of the finest
China, and are colored; and in rooms where, as in these countries,
the only furniture consists of carpets and ottomans, may assist in
preventing the apartment from looking too naked; but I did not much
admire the taste. Almost every family has some of these bowls; there
were several in our sleeping room at Mr. Farrah’s, which we put to the
desecrating use of wash-bowls.
From this we proceeded to the palaces of Ali Aga and Abdi El Belzah
Aga, which were also splendid, though smaller than that of Abdallah
Bey. In one of them was a chamber not more than fourteen feet square,
the finishing of the walls and ceiling of which had cost 7000 dollars.
They were composed of mirrors in small compartments, and were further
highly enriched with mother of pearl, gilding, and with arabesques and
Saracenic mouldings in a great variety of forms.
We finished with Mr. Farran’s town-house or palace, for such it truly
is; and where, to oriental splendor we found united English elegance
and comfort. The furniture from his own country was made to harmonize
very well with the eastern architectural taste.
The Commodore in the morning had sent his travelling firman to the
palace of Sheriff Pasha, the Governor of Syria; and now, while the
ladies proceeded with Mrs. Farran to her country residence, he went
with the officers to make an official visit to that dignitary. The
cavalcade, consisting of the Dragoman of the English embassy, Cavasses,
Mr. Farrah, and the American officers, had to traverse the whole
length of the city, as the Governor’s palace is on the south-western
end. Sheriff Pasha had been represented to us as a thorough Turk in
his feelings and manners towards Christians; but owing, probably, to
the firman, he met the party in the court of his palace, surrounded
by his officers, and with a guard of honor. On being conducted to the
audience hall, the party found that _chairs_ had been provided for
their accommodation, and he even occupied a chair himself. The usual
compliment of pipes, &c. was paid; and while smoking, he proceeded to
inquire about our country, showing, as indeed did most of the Egyptian
officers wherever we visited, a knowledge of our institutions and
resources that we had not expected to find. He spoke of our late war
and our successes on the ocean; and expressed a strong desire to see
the Delaware, of which he said he had that morning received an account
by letter. His curiosity, he said, would have carried him over to
Beirout to visit the ship, if he had not been in daily expectation of
the arrival of Ibrahim Pasha. After presenting Mr. Farrah to him as
the agent of our government, and receiving assurances that on this
recommendation he should be received without the usual formalities of
writing to Alexandria, the Commodore expressed the satisfaction he felt
in the protection and countenance that had been afforded by Mohammed
Ali and the Governor to the American citizens resident in Syria. The
Pasha replied, “That the citizens of all powers residing in the kingdom
were entitled to protection--such were his orders, which it afforded
him pleasure to fulfil, particularly towards the Americans, who had by
their correct conduct and their efforts to do good, merited protection
and favor; and that so long as he continued in office they should be
his peculiar care, and that he himself would be their _consul_;”
he requested, “if we should hear of an American having suffered
injustice or injury, or not having obtained justice for any injury or
insult, that the Commodore would write to him, and charge him with
neglect of his promise:” and added, “that, in short, he wanted to be
himself American consul in Syria, and charge himself with the care and
interests of all Americans, who were then, or might afterwards settle,
in Syria, or make it a visit.” The reader is left to deduct from all
this whatever he may consider as belonging to the usual _palavar_ of
such occasions; but, after all, Sheriff Pasha certainly acted and spoke
in a very handsome manner.
The party, after this interview, proceeded to Mr. Farran’s
country-seat, where we were engaged to dinner. This is a very beautiful
spot. It is quite near the foot of the mountains, in a north-western
direction from the city, from which it is about two miles distant.
The house stands within a large enclosure, and has in front a court
surrounded by immense walnut trees intermingled with the orange and
lemon, overhanging a large fountain. Directly under the windows in the
rear rushes the Barraday, here undivided, and a full rapid stream of
the clearest water. The grounds around the dwelling are laid out in
good taste, and are covered by an exuberance of foliage, some of the
trees being of prodigious magnitude.
The entertainment was in a style to correspond to all this; and after
such a busy day, good appetites were not wanting to do it justice. It
was, indeed, pleasant, away at Damascus, to meet with a hospitality
so kind and agreeable, and society that beguiled the thoughts back to
one’s father-land: and the party were easily induced to remain till
morning. Beds, in these countries, are, easily provided, the broad
ottomans only requiring a few sheets in order to make them excellent
places of repose; and so they are generally used.
The next day was appropriated to a lounge among the bazaars; and we
spent it agreeably, under the guidance of Mr. and Mrs. Farran, in
looking at the great variety of oriental productions. I have always
taken great pleasure in lounging in a Turkish bazaar; and it struck me
that these of Damascus, though perhaps less splendid, are more pleasing
than even the great bazaars of Constantinople. One very pleasing
characteristic of them is their great loftiness; while those of the
Turkish capital are low. The reader will imagine a street, or any
succession of streets, or rather a labyrinth of streets, about fifteen
feet wide, and covered at the height of fifty or sixty feet by a wooden
roof, generally tight, but sometimes allowing, through the interstices
of the covering or of a huge spreading grape-vine, the sunbeams to fall
in a gentle and chequered light. The sides of this street are composed
entirely of shops, not very large, and quite open in front; so that the
passengers can easily distinguish every article upon the well-filled
shelves. The floor of the shop is raised about three feet, and is
carpeted; and in the centre sits the lord of the little domain, ready
for the call of customers, and in the intervals helping away the time
by means of a book, or a pipe, or it may be by a nap. From the sides
of partitions between the stores bits of wood project into the street,
and on these are hung specimens of the articles for sale, silks of
various dye, handkerchiefs covered with vines or with sprigs of gold
embroidery; towels ornamented at their ends in a similar showy manner;
and cashmere shawls, rich enough to turn almost any brain, except, of
course, those of the reader and myself. Here, as in other oriental
cities, the shops are not mixed up together in the manner usual with
us; but streets, or parts of a street, are appropriated to the sale of
a particular article. One street has cobcobs; another has slippers;
another jewelry; another arms; another dry goods; another drugs. We
came to one lined with manufactories of cutlery, and at once scattered
along it in search of something that might be tortured into the boast
of “a Damascus blade;” but all to little purpose. The gentlemen,
seated cross-legged before their anvils, stared at our questions, and
seemed now, for the first time, to become aware of the celebrity of
their manufactures: and the nearest approach that we could find to the
articles of our search, were some huge, coarse knives, and a handjar or
two. They had, however, the delicate waving lines of yellow and blue
along the blade, which was one of the characteristics of the Damascus
swords, and was occasioned by their being made of alternate pieces of
iron and steel wire; the former to give them toughness, the latter
hardness and edge.
Here and there, at the corners of streets, we came to fruit-stands, and
in some of the well-filled baskets I noticed peaches, which I think
were the largest that I have ever seen.
The appearance of such a large party in the French dress seemed to
rouse the people from their natural apathy, and the streets sometimes
became so crowded as to be uncomfortable. We were, however, always
treated with politeness, and found them ready to gratify our curiosity
with regard to their wares: if we purchased, well: if not, well: the
muscles of the dignified and composed features of the merchant were
equally unmoved.
We might have spent a much longer time very agreeably at Damascus, and
were urged also to proceed on to Palmyra; but our time was limited; and
towards the close of the second day we bade adieu to the hospitable
family of Mr. Farrah, by which we had been so kindly entertained. Our
faces were now turned towards Balbec, which was not far out of our way
back to the ship; and as Mr. Farran’s house was on the road to that
city, he had insisted on our coming out this evening and spending the
night under his roof.
Having filed out at the north-western end of the city, we came, soon
after leaving it, to a large burying-ground, where the graves, covered
with solid masonry, which was plaistered and whitewashed, showed a
pleasing attention to the dead. The whitewash looked as if frequently
renewed, and every part of the ground was clean and in good order.
The appropriate cyprus, however, was wanting; nor was there any other
tree, or even a shrub. Beyond this, we entered among the gardens once
more; and were immediately surrounded by trees of venerable appearance
and majestic growth, and by cottages and country-houses, and gushing
streams. In our own country, majestic forest trees and streams of
all dimensions are common things, and the reader may wonder at the
enthusiasm which we felt when such objects were met with in our
journeyings: our enthusiasm was owing to two causes--the rarity of such
things about the Mediterranean was one, and the other cause was the
fact that they are common at our home: they brought home to our minds,
more vividly perhaps than any other objects could have done; and no one
who has not made the experiment can tell how dear, at the end of a few
years’ absence, our father-land becomes.
Alighted at Mr. Farran’s, however, we could not feel that we were in
a strange country. A pleasant evening succeeded an agreeable day, and
when we stretched ourselves on our couches, the gurgling of water on
either side of the house lulled us to repose.
FOOTNOTE:
[76] Mohammed Ali got possession of Damascus without resistance, in
June, 1832.