Accident on our return. Visit to St. Jean D’Acre. Also to Tyre.
Prophecies respecting Tyre fulfilled. Visit to Sidon. Lady Hester
Stanhope. Her letter of invitation to us. Visit to her residence at
D’joun Beirout. Missionary families at Beirout. Striking feature in
the Protestant Missionary operations. Their schools and printing
presses.
An accident, by which one of our party was seriously hurt, on our way
back, damped the gratification of our visit and retarded our progress;
but having left the invalid officer and Dr. B. at Ramla, we were able
to reach the ship in good season the same evening. Some seamen were
despatched during the night with a litter; and having thus got our
companions on board, we weighed anchor on the afternoon of the 26th,
and with a light breeze stood northwardly along the coast.
As we passed Cæsarea, about thirty-five miles distant from Jaffa, our
glasses enabled us to distinguish a few masses of masonry, which is all
that remains of that once large and magnificent city. A few hours after
this we came opposite to the northern termination of Mount Carmel, on
the summit of which the monastery of Elijah[73] was a very conspicuous
object. The French ensign was flying on the top of it, probably in
answer to our colors. The mountain was green, and had an agreeable
appearance; it thrusts itself some distance into the sea, and forms the
southern extremity of a large bay, at the northern end of which is St.
Jean D’Acre, the ancient Ptolemais.
We dropped our anchor a few miles from this latter city on the evening
of the 27th, and some boats, with parties, were despatched to the
shore. I have seen no place exhibit so strikingly the ruthless and
destructive character of war as did this city at the time of our visit.
It was at this place that Mohammed Ali first began to put in execution
his ambitious designs upon Syria. Under pretence of assisting the
Sultan in putting down a refractory Pasha, he brought his army and
navy against the place; but met what Bonaparte had here met before
him, a fierce and determined resistance. It was subjected to a long
bombardment, and at length, on the last of May, 1832, was taken by
assault, when his soldiers are said to have been guilty of the greatest
excesses.
The city is built upon a point of land running into the sea, and is
surrounded by strong walls; those on the land side being assisted by
ditches and by other lines of defence.
Scarcely a house was any where to be seen that had not suffered from
the shot. We were particularly struck with a very high wall, the
remains of some important edifice, that was completely riddled, and
now stood between us and the setting sun, which was pouring a stream
of light through every crevice, and making the ruin look still more
desolate. We made the circuit of the walls, and walked through the
city, but did not see more than thirty inhabitants in the whole place.
Leaving our anchorage early the next morning, we glided up towards
Tyre, which lies about thirty miles distant from St. Jean D’Acre,
being separated from it by a strip of low but sufficiently fertile
land, beyond which the mountains of Samaria commence. Our visit to
this country had put our Bibles in more than usual requisition; and I
had been pointing out to some friends the prophecies concerning Tyre,
and comparing these with the accounts given by travellers of the utter
desolation of the place, had endeavored to strengthen the argument for
the Scriptures. The spot is spoken of by Shaw as utterly abandoned,
except “by a few poor wretches, harboring themselves in the vaults, and
subsisting chiefly upon fishing, who seem to be preserved in this place
by Divine Providence, as a visible argument how God hath fulfilled his
word concerning Tyre.” Volney speaks of it as reduced to a miserable
village, consisting of “fifty or sixty wretched huts, ready to crumble
into ruins;” and Joliffe, a more recent traveller, says, that “some
miserable cabins, ranged in irregular lines, dignified with the name of
streets, and a few buildings of a rather better description, occupied
by the officers of government, compose nearly the whole of the town.”
Approaching it with these impressions, I was surprised to see a walled
town of tolerable dimensions, and with houses no worse looking than is
ordinary in these countries, above which, in answer to our ensign, were
waving the flags of most of the European nations, together with our own
star-spangled banner. The ship was hove to, and we were thus enabled
to make a hasty visit to the place. Our boats passed some ruins,
probably remains of the times of the Crusaders, which help to guard the
harbor from the wind and the sands. This looks as if it had once been
spacious, but it was now so choked up with ruins of various kinds and
with sand, as scarcely to admit even our boats.
Our consul, accompanied by some of the representatives of other
nations, met us at the landing, and conducted us to his house, where we
were welcomed with the usual forms of eastern hospitality. The present
population of Tyre, or _Tsour_ as it is called by the natives, I should
judge to be about 3,000 persons; it occupies about half of the ancient
island, which since the time of Alexander has been a peninsula. It is
surrounded by a wall of no great strength, nor at present of any great
utility, as the sands on the eastern side, after covering over the
isthmus to a considerable depth, have reached the city and have been
filled up nearly to the height of its battlements. The sand is the only
enemy, therefore, from which the fortifications are protecting them,
for any other would only have to walk up this inclined plane and let
themselves down into the city.
In a corner of the wall, about the centre of the island, they showed
us a large ruin, probably of a church belonging to the times of the
Crusaders, who had possession of the place from the year 1124 to 1289.
Near these ruins were some very large columns of Egyptian granite,
which looked as if they might have been taken from some of the ancient
temples.
I passed out of the gate, and made the circuit of the peninsula. The
shore on the southern side is formed of masses of bare rock, much
eaten by the waves, and in some places undermined. The foundations of
buildings are to be traced all over the ground, and also extending
out some distance into the sea. The isthmus has become very wide, and
now presents nothing but hills of loose sand, driven about by every
wind, and destined perhaps to cover the entire peninsula. The shore
opposite, for an extent of miles, is now also nothing but a bed of
sand, amid which, any traces of the ancient city that may have been
left by Alexander, have entirely disappeared. It was of this old city,
of sixteen miles in circumference, and whose walls were 120 feet in
height, that the prophecy was uttered: “I will make thee a terror and
thou shalt be no more; though thou be sought for, yet shalt thou never
be found again, saith the Lord God. All they that feared thee among
the people shall be astonished at thee; thou shalt be a terror, and
never shalt thou be any more;” and in vain amid that plain of yellow
drifting sand should we seek for any memorial of it, or expect to see
it rise again. Of this great mistress of the sea, the mother of many
colonies, some, as for instance Carthage, of prodigious wealth; of the
city that distributed crowns, “whose merchants were princes, and whose
traffickers were the honorable of the earth,” nought now remains, and
its site would probably be unknown but for this island and the village
that stands here, as if in mockery of the greatness of ancient Tyre.
“Is this your joyous city, whose antiquity is of ancient days?”
After walking about a short time among the dull streets, we were glad
to escape and get back to the ship. The commerce of Tyre now consists
of tobacco, charcoal, and fagots;--what a contrast to former times!
A gentle breeze wafted us on towards Sidon, which being only fifteen
miles distant, was soon distinctly in view; the bold and towering chain
of Mount Lebanon forming a striking background to the picture. This
mountain commences just above Tyre, and the greatness of that city
in ancient times, was probably owing, in some measure, to the outlet
afforded between the southern end of Lebanon and the mountains of
Samaria, to the trade from the great plain of Damascus and the cities
east of it. Sidon, called by the natives _Seyd_, is also a walled
town, and is larger than Tyre, containing a population of about 8,000
persons; but its harbor is most wretched, and our boats were near being
swamped in endeavoring to get in. A boat from the shore hastened out to
assist us, as soon as they found we desired to land; and placing itself
before the Commodore’s barge, guided us along the shallow and tortuous
channel, alongside of which a heavy surf was rolling and breaking, and
covering the water with foam.
After all we were poorly rewarded for our pains, unless it may
be something to say that we have been at Sidon; for it is a poor
miserable place. We desired, on entering the city, to be taken to
whatever objects there might be of interest; and they immediately
started off with us for “the gardens;” the concourse gathering fresh
numbers as we advanced. So we proceeded out of the town, and up a
hill, and then down; and there were the gardens, naked earth planted
with mulberry trees and vegetables; a spot that would have delighted
B----, our steward, had he been with us, but was not exactly to our
present taste. I ought to do the place justice, however; for it
appeared to be extremely fertile, and as far as our eye could reach
down the side of the eminence, there was the deepest verdure, and a
refreshing luxuriance of foliage. We returned to the town as soon as
possible, as the sun was getting low, and walked around and through
it, but without finding a single object worthy of note. The houses
are generally low and mean looking, and it appears to be a place of
few manufactures, and of little trade. Its rich and beautiful back
country, however, gives it a decided preference over Tsour; and its
population, I thought, looked as if they might be more comfortable.
We have a consular agent here, also, whose kind offers of hospitality
the shortness of our time compelled us to decline. On returning to the
ship we filled away and stood for the city of Beirout, which lies about
twenty miles to the northward of Sidon.
It had been our intention to call upon the celebrated Lady Hester
Stanhope, who we were informed was living at Manlius, about four miles
back of Sidon; but learning that she had changed her residence to
D’joun, three miles further in the interior, we were forced by the
lateness of the hour to relinquish our purpose. We met, however, at
the consul’s, a person who had been connected with her household, and
the Commodore requested him to inform her ladyship that we had landed
with the wish to pay our respects to her, but had been prevented by
the distance and want of time. Soon after our arrival at Beirout we
received a very handsome and polite invitation to make her a visit; and
as I find that she has excited considerable interest in our country, I
will give the letter as the best mode of presenting her to the reader.
To the American Admiral, Officers, and Ladies, who did me the honor
to inquire after me.
D’JOUN, 31st Aug., 1834.
You all ought to know how much I love and respect the American
nation. If the individuals did not command by their merit these
sentiments, I must naturally inherit them from my grandfather.[74] I
should be too happy to invite to D’joun the whole of the party; but
my premises will not admit of their being comfortable. My house is in
a dilapidated state. My thoughts, as well as my finances, for these
last three years, have been wholly dedicated to one object--that of
the relief of the unhappy persons, which the situation of the country
increases every day. The body of the house at this moment can only
contain me, very ill lodged; and all I have at my disposal, is two
pretty good rooms in a court, or rather a small garden, dedicated to
strangers alone, that might lodge pretty comfortably, the Admiral
and three other gentlemen. I could not well propose it to ladies,
being a place which, from its public situation, I never frequent. But
should the Admiral’s lady and her daughters wish to see something
of the surrounding country, I offer them Manlius, where, however,
there is only one room furnished. The house is only inhabited by an
old woman and a servant; but by bringing their travelling beds and
their cook, they might be more comfortable than in any other house in
the neighborhood. I can also furnish them with a very civil old man,
known to Mr. Guys, called Lewis Marson, who can talk French, and who
is very capable of attending to all their little wants.
I send Mr. Bertrand with this letter, that he may further explain
about the houses, or answer any other questions relative to them, and
to bring me your decision upon the subject.
I very cordially salute you all.
[Illustration]
Accordingly, after our return from Damascus, a party was formed and
spent four or five hours with her at her residence at D’joun. The house
is tolerably capacious, and is situated in a large garden, laid out
after the English style, but the premises are somewhat out of repair.
I fear she finds ungrateful subjects among the natives whom she has
patronized, and among whom she has spent a large part of her fortune.
A few years since she sent for our excellent consul at Beirout, Mr.
Chassaud, a gentleman of great integrity of character and of business
tact, and entreated him to save her from the rapacity of the people
around her, who, by exorbitant demands, and by various kinds of
roguery, were rapidly reducing her finances. He went and saved her
fortune from a complete wreck, and I believe, has now a high place in
her confidence.
She is a very extraordinary woman. Her person is tall and commanding,
and is shown by her costume, the Turkish trowsers and vest and
turban, to the best advantage; she is still handsome, and appears to
take pleasure in showing her arm, which is remarkably well turned
and beautiful. Coffee, pipes, &c. were brought in, and while she
encircled herself with the aromatic fumes, she conversed on various
topics--politics, literature, manners, and religion. She appeared
to have a good knowledge of our country, and the intelligence she
displayed about the politics of Europe was extraordinary for a person
shut out as she is from society, and seldom getting even a newspaper.
On most subjects she showed excellent sense, and a strength of judgment
seldom witnessed in either of the sexes; but when religion was broached
she became instantly changed, and was as wild as a maniac, both in
language and to some degree also in manner. She believes in magic and
astrology, and also that the Messiah will shortly appear, and has in
her stables a horse, with a natural sinking or indentation in the back
like a saddle, on which she says he is to ascend up into heaven. She
formerly allowed visitors to see this animal, but has for some years
kept it more secluded; and though the party on this occasion threw out
hints as far as politeness would allow them, they were not successful.
She was, it is said, a great favorite with her uncle William Pitt,
for whose society the acute and masculine character of her mind
well qualified her. Soon after his death she suddenly resolved upon
withdrawing to this country, and sailed in a short time, taking a large
part of her fortune with her in the vessel. She was wrecked near the
island of Rhodes, and her treasures were lost; but she was not to be
driven from her purpose; she returned immediately to England, gathered
together some more funds, and again set sail for the east, where she
has ever since resided. At first she led a somewhat wandering life; and
at one time had unbounded influence over the Arabs of the desert; but
for some years she has been residing at Manlius and D’joun; and with
the diminution of her funds has been also a decrease of her power. I
understand that lately, even her life has sometimes been in danger.
It is probable that her mind, originally strong though given to
eccentric flights, in these wild retreats where she has been shut out
from intelligent society, has turned and preyed upon itself, and that
a species of derangement has been the consequence. With her commanding
form, her intelligent and somewhat masculine face, her fanciful
costume, and the bright unearthly sparkling of her eye, she would make
a fine subject for a picture of an ancient Sibyl.
On the 29th we dropped our anchor at Beirout, not opposite to the city,
but in a large bay some miles to the northward, where were afforded
conveniences for procuring water, of which our ship was in need.
Opposite to our anchorage are some rocks at the foot of Lebanon, with a
bold perpendicular front, on which are cut some inscriptions in ancient
characters, probably Phœnician; and near this is a cave, said to be
the one where St. George of merry England met and killed the dragon.
The fancy of the reader is fired at the mention of this; and he is now
most truly in the region of poetry; for more poetical objects than
this mountain of Lebanon, with its wild glens, its rich valleys, its
precipices, and even its inhabitants also, are very seldom to be seen.
Beirout is situated on the outer edge of a strip of comparatively flat
land about four miles across, which commences at this place, and goes
tapering off to the southward, until it terminates somewhere not far
from Sidon. A large part of this plain, and every accessible spot on
the mountain, is under cultivation; and as Beirout is also at present
the seaport of Damascus, it is a city of some consequence, and, for
this country, of considerable trade. It contains about eight thousand
inhabitants, and on the land side is walled; the harbor will admit
only small vessels, but a seventy-four may find safe anchorage in the
road-stead, as near almost to the shore as it may choose to come. The
country produces great quantities of silk which is worked up in the
city; and here, particularly, are manufactured the fanciful variegated
scarfs used all over this region for sashes, and sometimes for turbans.
In addition to the pleasures we received in the family of our excellent
consul, Mr. Chassaud, another gratification awaited us here, in the
society of three of our countrymen, and their ladies, the Rev. Messrs.
Bird, Smith, and Whiting, missionaries, who have been several years
in the east, and during the last five or six at Beirout. They speak
the languages of the natives with great fluency; and are men of
intelligence and talents sufficient to give them a high standing in any
society, no matter where. They came on board immediately to welcome us,
and readily proffered such hospitality as their circumstances would
allow; their residence at that time being on the mountain, for the
sake of the superior salubrity of its atmosphere in summer. Strangers
residing below in the hot season are subject to fevers, and in the
summer following that of our visit, they had to lament the death of Dr.
Dodge, a physician connected with this mission and that at Jerusalem.
They have schools in the villages of the mountains, and in Beirout;
and at the time of our visit, were making arrangements for a printing
press which has since arrived, and with which they are commencing
operations.
It must strike every one, even those opposed to missions, as a pleasing
circumstance, that in all such establishments belonging to our country,
the communication of knowledge, not only in religious matters, but
on all topics, is one of the earliest and is ever a constant object.
Religion that comes thus associated cannot wish to hood-wink or lead
the people blindfolded. It enlarges the mind, it teaches the people
to think, and gives them useful objects of history and science to
think about; it strengthens the judgment; and to this judgment, thus
strengthened and thus rendered acute, it now appeals and asks for
admission to the heart. No man need be afraid of a religion that comes
in such companionship. It gives us the very best proof possible that
it considers itself based on reason, and that it will bear the test
of scrutiny from enlightened and intelligent minds--which scrutiny it
ever invites. There is no jargon of the schools here, no throwing of
dust into men’s eyes, no trying to blunt the intellect that nonsense
may be forced upon it. The missionaries come with geographies,
and arithmetics, and apparatus for easy and simple lectures, and
compendious histories; or where such books are not to be had in the
language, they go to work immediately and translate them; and they
circulate them; and they gather the children from the streets, and
seek for the adults, and they teach them _knowledge_, not religious
knowledge only but knowledge of all kinds. Their object, if is granted,
is to introduce religion into the heart, _their_ religion, if the
reader may choose to like the phrase; but then it comes preceded by and
associated with _knowledge_; _it loves the light_; light is created,
diffused, and in this light it comes, and in it addresses and appeals
to us; and let him who opposes these efforts, look and see if he does
not oppose them because he himself loves darkness rather than light,
and that because his own deeds are evil.
I visited a missionary house at Malta, belonging to the English
[Church?] Missionary Society, but under the care of some gentlemen from
Switzerland. I found them striking off maps for an atlas in modern
Greek, and making Arabic globes to be sent to Egypt, where, if I
mistake not, it will astonish the natives when they are told that the
world is round, and that they have been such prodigious travellers on
its surface, when they were thinking themselves all the while sitting
still. The shelves of this house were also filled with a great variety
of books, translations of the most approved modern works for schools;
and these they were scattering around the Mediterranean as fast as they
were able. And when I went to the dwelling house of one of them, (the
only one married,) I found his lady in a school with a room full of
children, many of whom had been common beggars in the streets, and had
been taken in here and clothed; she was teaching them to read and sew,
and had a small cabinet filled with their work, each article with the
maker’s name--the money for which, when sold, was to be delivered to
the child itself. Though their garments were often “of many colors,”
owing to the strange mixture of patches, yet there was not one ragged
child, and all were clean, and they looked cheerful and happy.
And all this is only an example of the Protestant missionary operations
at Syra, and Athens, and Constantinople, and Smyrna, and since they
have got the press, at Beirout, and in the islands of the Pacific, and
in India, and every where, wherever our missionaries are to be found.
FOOTNOTES:
[73] 1 Kings, chap. xviii.
[74] [The Earl of Chatham.--AUTHOR.]