Visit to Bethlehem. Well of the Star. Monastery of Elijah. Rachael’s
Tomb. Plain of the Shepherds. Town of Bethlehem. Character of its
inhabitants. Church and Cave of the Nativity. Traditions. The
Turpentine Tree, &c. Manufactures of the Bethlehemites. Tattooing.
Country northward from Jerusalem. Cave of Jeremiah. Hill of Bezetha.
Tombs of the Kings. Dr. Clarke’s subterranean Chapels. Ancient
quarries. Tombs of the Judges. Thorn from which the Saviour’s crown
is supposed to have been made. Difficulty at the Gates. Yaoub and the
Soldiers.
On the morning of the 18th we started for Bethlehem, which lies at the
distance of about five miles from Jerusalem on the south. Leaving by
the Jaffa gate, and crossing by difficult paths the valley of Hinnom,
we had then before us an elevated plain bordered eastwardly by the
valley of Jehoshaphat, about two miles wide, and extending three miles
toward the south, in which direction it has a slight ascent. As we
passed on, a troop of cavalry, which had been out at their morning
drill, came sweeping along on our left; but when they had passed us,
we were left alone in the open country, where scarcely a sign of
cultivation appeared. A blight has for a great many years been upon
this doomed and unhappy land. At the distance of about two miles from
the city, we came to a well, called “the well of the kings,” or, “the
well of the star,” from a tradition that when the wise men had left
Jerusalem for Bethlehem, and had reached this place, the star (Matthew
ii. 9.) appeared again, and led them on to the couch of the infant
Messiah. At the extremity of this plain, and on a height commanding
a view both of Jerusalem and Bethlehem, is the Greek monastery of
Elijah, where is one of the sacred places of the country. “Here,” says
el Devoto Peregrino, “is a rock impressed by the body of the holy
prophet, as natural as if it had been stamped there; for we see the
head, the shoulders, the ribs and body, extended horizontally. This is
the place to which the holy prophet retired to contemplate the future
Messiah; and where, looking towards Bethlehem, he saw him enveloped
in coarse swaddling clothes, but surrounded by angels, singing glory
to God in the highest; and, looking towards Jerusalem, saw him nailed
to the cross and crowned with thorns, while the multitude around were
blaspheming and insulting him.”
Sandys, in his quaint style, remarks of it: “Hard by is a flat rock,
whereon they told us that the prophet was accustomed to sleepe, and
that it beares as yet the impression of his body. Indeed, there are
certaine hollowes in the same, but not by mine eyes apprehended to
retaine any manly proportions.”
I speak of the place from the authority of others, for I felt no
disposition at the time to trouble myself with matters of this nature.
Indeed, it requires a constant effort in travellers among these places
to keep the mind free from disgust, and from the baneful effects
of the errors, that, like leeches, have fastened themselves to the
truth, covering and deforming it, and exhausting its power, while they
themselves live on its fading strength.
The monastery is surrounded by a strong wall, and looks as if it might
be a place adapted as much for defence as for devotion.
Bethlehem here came into full view, though more than two miles distant;
the country between it and us, although broken, being rather low,
and the town itself being situated on an eminence of steep ascent.
On the way, we left, at a short distance on our right hand, a small
square edifice surmounted by a dome, evidently a modern structure,
but called the tomb of Rachael, and regarded by Moslems as well as by
the Christian sects here with high respect. Further on to our left,
and below the town of Bethlehem, was a small valley, covered even at
this hot season with a refreshing verdure; and here they inform us the
shepherds were watching their flocks by night, when the angel appeared
to announce glad tidings of great joy, the birth of “a Saviour, which
is Christ the Lord.” Near this is also a well, said to be the one
from which David’s three “mighty men” procured him water at the risk
of their lives. Passing these spots, we soon after arrived at the
outskirts of Bethlehem; and as our large cavalcade wound up the steep
ascent, the whole population of the place came crowding along the way,
hanging over the rude walls, and filling every door and window. They
are all Christians in name, though they bear an indifferent character;
and, what in these countries strikes one with surprise, the women
appeared with their faces exposed, and frequently very good-looking
faces they were. Our arrival seemed to excite a very unusual sensation,
which I was able to account for by and by, when one of the men, taking
me aside in the convent, asked seriously whether the report was true,
“that we had come to take the place from the Egyptian Pasha.” They
bear no good feeling towards the Moslem power, and have always been
refractory and troublesome subjects to the Porte; their insulated
situation, and the facilities for retiring to mountain fastnesses in
the wild country around, encouraging in them bold and independent
habits. We were informed that when the general order from Mohammed Ali
for disarming the populace of Syria was carried to them, they sent in
about a dozen muskets, saying, that these were all they had; nor could
any threats wrest more from them, though the place has three or four
hundred fighting men well equipped. The town is situated on a piece
of isolated table land, of sudden elevation on every side. On the
east this runs out into a narrow tongue, and at the extremity of this
projection, 200 yards distant from the village, are the monastery and
church of the Franciscans, covering the spot where the Messiah was born.
The recent earthquake had rent the massive walls of these edifices,
but not so as to endanger them, and we met with a ready and hospitable
reception beneath the roof. The door of entrance is low and strong,
and every where in this country is the traveller reminded of the
insecurity of life and property; and, unless people would live there
with a martyr’s spirit, of the necessity of being constantly prepared
for defence.
Having entered the building, we were carried along some winding
passages, and found ourselves presently in a church that had once been
splendid, but which is now in a dilapidated state, owing partly to the
effects of time, and partly to the spoliations of the Turks. It has
four rows of columns, ten in each row, and still imposing objects, the
effect of which is heightened by gilding and paintings on the wall; but
the colors are dim, and the pavement is torn up, and the place has a
melancholy grandeur that chills and oppresses the feelings.
They took us from this, after a short period for resting, into some
side passages, and we soon found ourselves descending into the Cave
of the Nativity. It is reached at one end by a tortuous underground
passage, but on the other by a flight of steps that brings us at once
to the spot. We were introduced by the former of these, and after
winding along for a distance of about fifty feet, we turned short to
the left, and a flood of light bursting suddenly upon us, we knew
that we were in the Chapel or Cave of the Nativity. The main body of
this subterranean apartment is about thirty-five feet long by twelve
in width, with a height of ten or twelve feet, but it is irregular
in shape. On either side, as we advanced, were benches or seats for
those who may choose to come here for meditation. Having proceeded
about twenty feet, we came to a small apartment on our right, about ten
feet square, the floor of which is lower by eighteen inches than the
remainder of the cave; it is open in front, where are two pillars to
support the roof. On the three remaining sides are shallow recesses;
one of which, they inform us, is the manger in which the infant Messiah
was laid; in the recess opposite the Magi sat, and in the third they
deposited the gifts of “gold, frankincense, and myrrh.” The rock over
this apartment is bare, and visitors are allowed to break off small
fragments; the other portions of the cave are all lined with precious
marbles.
Just beyond this spot the cave branches to the right and left, a broad
flight of steps, on either hand, leading, at the distance of about
twenty feet, to the surface of the ground; at the angle formed by
this branching is another recess, about three feet deep and six in
length. It is occupied by an altar, over which is a handsome painting
of the Adoration; the altar is in form of a table, and beneath it, at
the centre of a star formed of marble mosaic work, is a silver plate
inscribed,
HIC DE VIRGINE MARIA JESUS CHRISTUS NATUS EST.
_Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary._
I suppose there can be no reasonable doubt that this is actually the
cave of the Nativity. Hadrian, in derision of the Christians, placed
here a statue of Adonis, and Helena, not long after, erected the
church, the remains of which we have just been examining. Jerome speaks
of the place as undisputed in his day; and as he resided here a while,
we must suppose him well acquainted with the subject. A subterranean
chamber, on the right of the winding passage by which we had reached
this cave, is still pointed out as his study; they show, adjoining
to it, also, the place where the bodies of the Innocents were cast,
the sepulchre of St. Jerome, that of Eusebius, and that also of St.
Paula and her daughter Eustoquio, persons distinguished in the Romish
calendar. Over the small chamber in which the manger is situated, they
show also what they call a picture of St. Jerome, stained miraculously
in the natural rock.
It is sad, when we enter a place of such powerful interest, to be met
at the very threshold with things that we cannot believe; and instead
of being left to indulge in salutary reflections, to be compelled to
commence separating truth from error, and fixing their boundaries, or
else to feel the repulsive and chilling effect of scepticism settling
upon the whole. The great error of the Romish and Greek churches
here has been in endeavoring to fix upon a locality for every event
noticed in Scripture; and even the parables of our Saviour have not
been suffered to escape from this spirit of blind and injudicious
zeal. They point out upon the Mount of Olives spots as those where
the Saviour taught the Lord’s Prayer, where the Apostles composed
the creed, where Christ wept over Jerusalem, where he preached the
Judgment, &c.; and on Mount Zion, where the last supper was held,
where Peter retired to weep, where Isaiah was sawn in two, and a great
variety of other places with which it is not necessary to fatigue the
reader.
And as if this were not enough, they have got up traditions of the
wildest and most startling nature, and the whole country is full of the
localities with which these are connected. On the way out to Bethlehem
are two which I have not yet noticed, and at which I will now barely
glance. One is a place where formerly stood a turpentine tree. As the
Virgin was going to Jerusalem with the infant for the Presentation in
the Temple, this tree bowed and did reverence as they passed; and to
make its show of respect more lasting, did not return to its former
position, but remained thus inclined. It was worthy of observation,
too, that ever after, though the air might be sultry and stifling in
all the region about it, yet under this tree was always a refreshing
breeze. Indulgences were granted to those who recited prayers beneath
it; wood was cut from it by night (through fear of the Turks), and
carried, in the form of crosses, all over Europe. The Arabs, at length,
in a fit of ill humor, cut it down.
As we descend the hill toward Bethlehem is another spot made sacred by
their traditions. The Virgin passing by this place, saw a man sowing or
planting beans, and asking him what he was employed at, received for
answer that he was sowing pebbles; on which, the beans in his basket
turned to pebbles, nor has any care since that availed to make the
field produce any thing else than stones.
These are only specimens of the superstitious legends with which the
whole region is filled.
On our return to the convent, we found an excellent dinner in a state
of preparation by the monks, who indeed, during the whole of our visit,
treated us with great hospitality and attention; on leaving it, we, in
return, made them a present of some gold coin, which, as was perfectly
proper, they accepted. During the recent troubles in the country, the
strong walls of their monastery had afforded protection to the persons
and property of many of the inhabitants of Bethlehem; and we found
several of the chambers and passages still filled with furniture and
bags of grain. While dinner was in preparation, the natives of the
town crowded in with a great variety of articles which they are in the
habit of making for pilgrims; crosses, inkstands, boxes of mother of
pearl, huge clasps for girdles made of a complete shell with figures
cut in relief, and beads of the same material, and of a substance
called Mecca-stone, which is sometimes colored red or black. Most of
these objects were rude enough, but some of the figures in relief were
conceived and executed in a manner that would not have disgraced an
Italian artist. The pilgrims place these things first in the Cave of
the Nativity, and then carry them to the Holy Sepulchre, where, being
deposited on the tomb, prayers are said over them, which are supposed
to give them a supernatural power over evil spirits, so far as to
protect the persons and property of the possessors.
While most of us were laying in large stores of their bead and pearl
manufactures, some of our younger companions were submitting to the
painful process of having figures, from Scriptural subjects, pricked
and stained in the arm with blue or black pigment, a species of
tattooing, at which, it seems, the Bethlehemites are expert, and to
which pilgrims very often submit. It is not often that they have such a
market for their commodities, and I believe our visit to Bethlehem will
long be remembered; to us it was certainly a very interesting epoch.
* * * * *
Taking our usual interpreter, an intelligent young Armenian, for a
guide, and accompanied, whether we would or no, by a half crazy and yet
very shrewd fellow, called Yaoub, a party of us made an excursion one
day to “the Tombs of the Kings.” They lie about three quarters of a
mile north of the city, amid olive groves and fields; and we found the
walk there pleasanter than we anticipated.
We passed out by the Damascus gate, so called from the circumstance
that the great road from Damascus enters the city here; and soon after
leaving it, turned to our right to examine a huge cavern that stood
yawning upon us. It is called the Cave of Jeremiah, from a tradition
that he made it his residence; it is above 100 feet deep, by seventy in
width and thirty in height, and is a gloomy, desolate place, such as we
may suppose would have been chosen by the author of the Lamentations;
but I presume there is no other authority for its name.
We were now on the hill Bezetha, where stood the Neopolis, or New City,
inclosed by Agrippa’s wall. The hill is still marked with tolerable
distinctness, though it is in no place very high. It is ridge shaped,
declining gently towards the east and west, and ascending gradually
towards the north. Passing on, we reached, in a short time, a square
pit with smooth perpendicular sides, about 100 feet on each side and
fifteen in depth, cut in the solid rock, and resembling a quarry, which
it may have originally been. An inclined plane at the north-eastern
angle leads to the bottom; and having descended by this, we had
opposite to us, on the south, a portico about twenty-five feet long
by ten in depth, cut out of the solid rock; this is surmounted by an
entablature, enriched with flowing sculpture of plants and fruits, in
bold relief, and of very superior execution. At the eastern end of this
portico was a hole, formerly a door-way of easy passage, but now so
filled up that we could enter only by prostrating ourselves flat on the
ground, and pushing ourselves forward by the feet. Having entered in
this manner, we found that we were in a room about twenty feet square,
cut entirely out of the solid rock. It appears to have served as a
vestibule to other chambers, of which there are six in number, each
with one or more receptacles for the dead. These consist of troughs cut
out of the native rock, not sunk in the floor as is generally the case
in the ancient sepulchres about this city, but on its level; fragments
of the covers of one or two were scattered about the rooms; these were
enriched with flowing sculpture, very well executed in strong relief;
the coffins or sarcophagi were in other respects entirely plain.
The doors by which these chambers were closed are very remarkable
objects. They are of stone, and are in dimensions about forty by thirty
inches, and are six inches in thickness. Above and below are projecting
knobs, forming a portion of the same stone, four inches in length;
these were inserted into corresponding sockets, and formed the pivots
on which the door revolved; but the question, how they were inserted
into the grooves, is one that it would be difficult to solve. It is
said that the ancients had a mode of fastening these doors so that no
one who had not the secret could open them without breaking the stone.
I have seen similar grooves in the gateway of the citadel of Mycenæ
in Greece; and the sculpture belonging to these tombs, so strongly
resembling the Grecian, appears to indicate for them an origin in the
latter days of the ancient city. They are probably what by Josephus
are called Herod’s Monument, and in another place, “the sepulchral
caverns of the Kings;”[71] and I think we may reasonably suppose them
to have been formed by Herod. If this surmise with regard to their name
is correct, they receive an additional interest, as showing us the
northern boundary of the “new city” of Bezetha.
From this we proceeded to visit “the Tombs of the Judges,” which lie
nearly a mile further, in a course somewhat west of north. The ground
was still cultivated in patches, and was covered with olive trees;
the surface undulating. We passed, on the way, several subterranean
apartments like that which Dr. Clarke discovered on the Mount of
Olives, and which he supposed to have been a chapel for the secret and
forbidden worship of the false gods. They are in shape like a bee-hive,
are plaistered, and are entered by a small hole at the apex, which is
the only opening. To our judgment they seemed designed to be reservoirs
for water, or for granaries, but were most probably the former. Several
years since I discovered one exactly similar to these, on some heights
overlooking the site of the ancient Abydos at the Dardanelles.
We were now getting into an interesting region, evidently that from
which were procured the huge blocks that formed the walls of the
ancient city. The rock here is compact and solid, and of a fine
texture; and for a great distance, and in every direction, exhibited
the appearance that rocks would do from which large rectangular blocks
with smooth surfaces had been cut. The vertical sections were regular
and smooth, and sometimes fifteen or twenty feet in height. In the face
of them were a great number of tombs, such as I have already described;
sometimes consisting of a single chamber, sometimes of a succession
of chambers, and with from two to four burial-places each, generally
without ornament, and, as far as we observed, without inscriptions.
The largest of these chambers are called the Tombs of the Judges; but
as the name is probably fanciful, we gave it little attention. Nor are
the tombs themselves, except in size, more interesting than the others.
These tombs are scattered over a surface of about a square mile, and
are numerous.
In the interval between this and the city grows abundantly a thorn,
which is considered to be the species from which the Saviour’s crown
of thorns was made. It is called the _Rhamnus Paliurus_, and consists
of a bush with long slender twigs, on which are, alternately, a long
and a short thorn, slightly curved and very sharp. It is found all over
Syria, and also in Asia Minor.
We set out from this on our return; but the sun had set, and when
we reached the city gates we found them closed; nor, in the strict
vigilance which the recent dangers had taught them, was it at that time
easy to get them opened again. Our crazy friend, Yaoub, who had been
acting the merry-andrew along the road, now, however, interfered,
and was more serviceable than a more sensible person would have been.
He hailed a soldier, whom, in his walks about, he spied reconnoitring
us through a loop-hole, and the man of gunpowder and bullets, perhaps
thinking him sufficiently crazy to be a Turkish Santon or Saint, was
at length brought to a parley. A messenger was despatched forthwith to
the Governor; and Yaoub, now once more quite at ease, called to the
soldiers to pass him a pipe beneath the gate, which having been done,
he sat down to enjoy its fumes and his own importance. The messenger
at length returned, and the guard having been mustered, and the gates
having been thrown wide open, we were about to advance, when we were
met by a couple of dozen fixed bayonets directly at our breast. We
were brought to a stand till a more careful scrutiny of our faces had
satisfied the officers that we were not wild Arabs in disguise; when
the ranks opened, and we were allowed to enter. And we found that the
prospect of spending the night in the open fields, that for a while was
staring upon us, was sufficient to give a charm even to our hard and
uneasy quarters in the convent.
FOOTNOTE:
[71] Jos. de Bel. lib. v. cap. xiii. § 2. and Ib. cap. iv. 2.