Preparations to visit the Pyramids. Audience of leave with the
Governor of Cairo. Visit of the ladies of our party to the Sultana.
Description of the Harem.
The 24th was a day of bustle, a large portion of it being spent at
home, superintending the storing of wines and fruits, the cooking of
fowls and eggs, and the preparation of all the _et ceteras_ that would
be required by a few days’ residence on the desert.
The plan, as formed by our good friend, Mr. Gliddon, was to make
an early start on the morrow, to the great Pyramids of Ghizeh,
thence proceed to the Pyramids of Sakhara, sleep in tents in their
neighborhood; on the following morning examine the site of Memphis, and
then going on board his boat, which would be directed to meet us there,
to drop down the river, stopping by the way at the military and naval
school at Toura.
As it was the Commodore’s intention, after this excursion, to start
immediately on his return to the ship, he had sent on the 23d, to the
governor of Cairo, to say that he would this day have an audience of
leave; and the ladies of his family also had despatched a messenger
to the Sultana, stating that they would make the visit which, on the
previous occasion, they had promised her.
Accordingly, at 9 A. M. the party proceeded to the citadel in the same
order as before, where the officers were received by the governor in
a larger and more magnificent hall than at the former visit. While
the usual compliments of pipes, coffee, and sherbet were offered,
the Commodore made the governor his acknowledgments “for the honor
and great attention shown him as an American officer, and to the
officers with him; stating that their civilities had left us nothing
to desire, and that, individually, he felt under great obligations to
his Excellency the Pasha, a lively remembrance of whose kindness he
should ever retain.” To this the governor replied, that he acted only
according to his instructions, and was happy in being the instrument
of carrying them into effect; the American commander was considered
the guest of the Pasha, who, if he had been present, would have been
able to do more, and would doubtless have ordered a palace for our
accommodation. To this there was added much on both sides that was
complimentary, if that can be called compliment on our part, which
proceeded from real admiration and truly grateful feeling.
From the governor’s hall, the party retired to the palace of Mohammed
Ali, and were again served with coffee, &c.; the mouth-pieces of the
pipes served on this occasion being richly set with diamonds; the
coffee cups were set in fillagree work of gold, enriched also with the
same precious stones. Some hours were spent in smoking, and in visiting
the interesting objects in and about the citadel not seen before;
while, in the mean time, the ladies of the Commodore’s family were
making their visit to those of the Harem.
I am allowed to insert here an account of this visit from a letter,
written without the least idea of publication, but which places before
us, in graphic language, scenes which strangers were never before
allowed to witness. Our interest in reading it takes a melancholy
character from the reflection that the accomplished youthful writer is
now an inmate of the tomb.
* * * * *
“We are the only Christians who have ever been admitted into the
Pasha’s Harem. We were there twice. The first time was a mere visit,
but the second was to spend the day. I must endeavor to describe it
for you. At the gate we were received by a dozen male attendants, who
led us to the garden gate, where we found three girls playing upon
different Arab instruments, while two others were singing and two
dancing, magnificently dressed in crimson and blue cloth, embroidered
in gold--the full pantaloons hanging over the foot, just allowing an
embroidered slipper to be seen--a jacket, tight to the shape, without
sleeves, open a little upon the chest, where appeared a chemise of
blue or white gauze, closely spangled, sleeves of the same, hanging
large and full to the elbow, and down behind in a dozen plaits; and
on the side and top of the head, large sprigs of diamonds. A sash of
gold tissue, with a deep gold fringe, finished the dress. These pretty
creatures preceded us to the palace door, where we were met like old
friends by the Sultana, her maids of honor and attendants, to the
number of a hundred at least. The great hall of state into which we
were ushered, was an immense one, lined and floored with white marble;
in the centre a basin fifteen feet square, and a large fountain, from
which the clearest water was playing; the ceiling richly painted
and gilt; one side of the hall lined with ottomans of white silk,
embroidered in gold, and a beautiful Persian carpet spread in front
of them. As soon as we were seated, coffee and pipes were handed to
us. The Sultana is about 35 years old, with a fine face, though the
eye is stern--dignified and affable in her manners. Her dress was a
chali, made in Turkish style, only more closed over the neck. On the
head was a sort of skull cap, formed entirely of diamonds. Around this
was twisted an embroidered kerchief, and on the left side, down near
the ear, was placed a sprig of flowers, made of enormous diamonds:
earrings, a single pair, shaped like a drop, as large as the end of my
little finger, and on her little finger was a most superb diamond ring.
Around us stood the hundred attendants, dressed in colored silks; and
every one, even of the lowest rank, with heads covered with diamonds.
The pipe stems and sockets of the coffee cups were also covered with
these precious stones. Such a glitter I never saw before. An Armenian
woman, who spoke Italian, was there as our interpretess. Our gloves and
buckles excited their admiration, indeed our whole dress. I don’t know
that I was ever so hauled and pulled about as I was that day.
“We were taken all over the palace, and it vied throughout in elegance
with the great hall. At half past 12, we were led by the Sultana down
to the reception room to dinner. As we entered, girls bearing silver
basins approached; others with pitchers poured water over our hands;
others again presented us towels. On the centre of the Persian carpet
was placed a small table, about a foot square, covered with a cloth of
gold tissue. On that was a circular glass waiter, about three feet in
diameter. In the centre was a dish of roast mutton. The Sultana sat
down, with my mother and self on either side of her; then E----, and
G----, and a lady of the court, formerly a slave of the Pasha’s, now
married to a colonel. The interpretess stood and carved for us. The
china was French and handsome--silver knives and forks, &c., which
the Sultana knew not how to use. She punched at the meat in the most
unmerciful manner. When we sat down, a napkin was placed on each of our
laps; another, embroidered in gold, laid over the right shoulder; and a
third, and a finer one, laid upon the lap, to wipe the mouth with. Some
of the slaves fanned us--some held the different dishes--others salvers
of knives, and others again silver pitchers, and so on. What with the
beautiful dresses, the glitter of gold and diamonds, the divan, the
spacious hall and fountain, it seemed that the scenes of the Arabian
Nights were realized before me. I wish you could have seen it. Our only
regret was that this beautiful scene could not be enjoyed by some of
our friends.
“It is said there is no pleasure without pain. Truly it was so in this
case. The dinner was almost too much for us. We counted thirty-nine
different dishes, served one at a time, and of each we were obliged
to eat a little. And so strangely served as they were! The first five
dishes were of mutton, rice, &c.,--then a sweet dish--then fried fish
and fried lemons--then meat--then another sweet dish--next fried fish
and nuts--and so on till the thirty-ninth, which was stewed rice and
bonny-clabber. The glass salver was then taken away, and a silver one,
with melons, peaches, grapes, &c., replaced it. When we rose from the
table, the girls with the basins knelt before us, and hands were washed
as before, when pipes and coffee were given us to finish off with.
While we smoked, the Sultana retired to prayers, which she does five
times a day. Then if you could have witnessed the scene, you would
have imagined us amongst a parcel of great children. Oh! how we were
dragged about, patted and pulled; each woman declaring we belonged to
her, and should not speak to the others. At 3 o’clock we were sent
for to depart, as the gentlemen were satiated with smoking, and could
wait no longer. They had been with the Governor all this time. The
Sultana held us tight, and said the Capidan Pasha had no business to
send for us; and it was 4 o’clock before we could get away. We made a
great procession through the garden. First went the musical, dancing,
and singing girls; then the Sultana and ourselves, slaves bearing fans
of peacock’s feathers over our heads; and then came the attendants.
At the garden gate, sherbet was handed, when we took a kind farewell
of our hospitable Sultana, and were consigned to the care of the male
attendants, and at the carriage found the gentlemen impatient to hear
all about what we had seen.”