Cross to Boulac. Splendid hospitality of the government. Our
cavalcade. Kindness of Mr. Gliddon. Description of his house. The
Baldac.
On the morning of the 20th, the U. S. Consul at Cairo, Mr. Gliddon,
Jun., came over, and our boats were soon after removed to the opposite
side of the river. And here commenced a series of hospitable attentions
on the part of the government, which contributed most materially to
our comfort during the time that we remained at Cairo. On the bank
we found waiting a European-built carriage, with four white horses,
for the ladies; and for each of the officers a superb horse, with
saddles of purple or black silk velvet, richly embroidered in gold,
and with housings to correspond. Each horse had a groom, who kept
constantly in attendance. These were all furnished from the Pasha’s
stables in obedience to orders from Alexandria, and each morning,
during our stay in the city, were brought to our house, and also
during the day whenever we required them. The Commodore’s horse was a
spirited charger from Tyre, the saddle and housings of purple velvet
embroidered in gold, and stirrups of massive silver. About thirty of
these were paraded on the bank at our landing; we looked at their
flashing eyes and their powerful frame as they pawed the earth, with
certain misgivings with regard to ourselves; but concealing these as
well as we could, with the help of the grooms we soon found ourselves
in the saddles; and then, having for a while measured with our eyes the
distance between us and the ground, we turned to look at our cavalcade.
It was a very pretty sight; and as we rode on, the natives stopped
to gaze at us with that look of wonder and admiration which is so
agreeable to a good horseman. The horses, after all, though spirited,
were easily managed; and, except a bad habit of using their hinder
legs against their neighbor’s legs or bodies, were generally peaceable
enough. They are taught a singular gait when in rapid motion, which to
the natives may seem admirable, but to us was any thing but agreeable;
it is as if the animal were to leap up with the whole four feet at once.
Preceded by a Master of Horse, and accompanied by two Chaouishes and
five Cavasses, with the grooms, each in the fanciful eastern costume,
we wound onward through the streets of Boulac, and, on looking around,
felt pleased each with himself, with his horse, and with the world.
The suburbs of Boulac and Cairo straggle off so near to each other as
to leave but a short interval between; but there is little of note on
the way, except the garden where Kleber was basely assassinated. It
is elevated above, and faces an open area or parade ground, which we
crossed just before entering the gates of the city.
After winding through a great labyrinth of streets, we drew up at
length before the house of Mr. Gliddon, Jun. How greatly are we all
indebted to the hospitality and the very kind attentions of this
gentleman. As soon as he had learnt we were coming, he sent down
his large boat for the Commodore and family, and it had reached Atf
only an hour after our departure: he now had broken up his bachelor
establishment, and threw open his house to us. He planned our visits
so that each day brought with it some object of pleasing and useful
curiosity; and when our excursions were distant, took upon himself all
the trouble of preparation for them. We thanked him warmly at parting,
but our hearts continue to thank him more warmly than words can do.
We entered his mansion, and freely took possession of what had been so
freely and kindly offered, and then prevailed on Mr. Gliddon to become
our guest.
While resting here, I will briefly describe the mansion, as it is a
good specimen of the better kind of houses in Cairo. Entering from the
street, we found ourselves in a passage with seats on either side, a
stopping-place for attendants, porter, or servants, who may come on
business. This opened into one angle of a court, enclosed on three
sides by the house; and on the fourth by a wall separating it from an
outer yard or garden. Turning here to the left, we came presently to
a stairway leading to the second story of the edifice. The lower part
is occupied by servants, and as store rooms or for similar purposes.
At the head of the stairs on the right was a chamber opening into the
kitchen and its offices, and on the left a vestibule conducting to the
dining-room, a lofty and very airy apartment. The walls and ceiling
were ornamented with a variety of carved work in wood, and for windows
were lattices in a great variety of handsome patterns: at one side
of the room were two large recesses, adjoining projecting lattices;
the floors in these were raised about two feet, and furnished with
carpets and cushions. And here, after dinner, our company retired to
enjoy their Turkish pipes. Ascending to the third story, and turning
to the end of the building opposite the dining-room, we came first
to a vestibule, the most striking object in which is several mammoth
jars of earthenware, filled with Nile water. Through this vestibule we
are admitted into the principal apartment of the house. It is about
fifty feet in length, and airy and lofty; and raising our eyes to the
ceiling, we have here explained to us an object which is apt to puzzle
a traveller on his first approach to an Egyptian city. He sees on each
of the flat roofs of the town before him something like a low shed,
closed at the sides but open in front, and with a very long slanting
roof. Here we discover its use, for the elevated ceiling of this room,
instead of being flat throughout, towards one end begins to ascend,
and rising high above the roof of the house, a large opening is thus
made for the admission of air from above. This opening is covered with
fanciful lattice-work. Its utility must be evident in a city where the
houses are three or four stories high, and the streets usually not more
than four feet in width. Entering this long room, the visitor finds
each end of it occupied by a platform about a foot in height, covered
with Turkey carpets, and lined with broad, luxurious ottomans. These
platforms are separated at the centre of the room by a strip of marble
pavement about twelve feet wide; at one end of which, opposite to us
as we enter, is a recess with marble shelves for confectionary, pipes,
and for supporting the priceless and most tempting Baldac. The Baldac,
the reader, after this encomium, will be surprised to hear is only an
earthen drinking vessel, in shape of a Florence flask, though about
three times as large; it is unglazed, and the water oozing through its
thin sides, evaporates, and produces a delicious coolness. I do not
know any piece of furniture that, if taken from the inhabitants, would
be so much regretted as the Baldac. Each one, as he needs, drinks at
once from the Baldac, five or six of them being always kept ready for
use. Water for the whole city is brought from the Nile on the backs of
camels or mules.
We return to our description of the house, which, however, is nearly
completed. The remainder of the third tier is appropriated to sleeping
apartments, and a fourth range over them is devoted to a similar
purpose. The roof is flat, but irregular. Nearly all the windows in
this building look into the court: but in most of the buildings there
are latticed windows looking into the narrow streets; sometimes
they project a little, so as to give the fair inmates an opportunity
of seeing all that is passing below, without being seen themselves.
Occasionally we catch a glimpse of a dark eye or a jewelled hand,
through the openings of the fanciful but jealous lattice.