26th April.
Continued the route along the right bank of the Wickham from 7.45 a.m.
till 3.15 p.m., the general course east-north-east, and camped; after
passing the gorge in the sandstone range, which was very narrow and
rocky, the country opened into level plains. The best line of route to
the upper part of the Wickham is near Mount Warburton, as the sandstone
hills which form the rocky gorge are detached; the day was cool and
cloudy, with a strong easterly breeze in the morning, and it commenced
raining at sunset.
27th April.
At 7.25 a.m. left the camp and steered east to the Victoria River, but as
we could not find a fording place, turned north to the Wickham, and
encamped on its banks at 12.25. The bank of the Victoria being so densely
covered with reeds that the water was not accessible; at noon I rode out
with Mr. H. Gregory to search for a ford, as I wished to keep on the
right bank of the river to ascertain what tributary streams joined from
the east; after three hours' search found a practicable ford and returned
to the camp after dark. In the afternoon the blacks were heard calling on
the left bank of the Wickham, near the camp, but were not seen, owing to
the thick brush and reeds which filled the bed of the river.
28th April.
At 7.25 a.m. steered south to the Victoria and reached the ford at 8.35,
and at 9.0 a.m., having accomplished the passage of the river with only a
few slight accidents, followed the right bank of the Victoria downwards
till 1.15 p.m., and encamped on the eastern side of the Victoria; the
country was level and well grassed for several miles back, and then rose
into the sandstone range to the south and basaltic hills to the east.
29th April.
At 7.10 a.m. steered north-east over a nearly level grassy basaltic
country with low hills to the east of our route; at 8.0 a.m. altered the
course to north and traversed a fine grassy country with table hills of
basalt resting on chert and sandstone; crossed one creek from the
south-east with a muddy channel fifteen yards wide; at 2.0 p.m. changed
the course to north 300 degrees east, and at 4.15 p.m. reached the bank
of the Victoria; but it was so steep that the horses could not approach
the water, and therefore followed it to the rocky ford east-south-east
from Mount Sandiman and encamped.
30th April.
Crossed the left bank of the river at 7.0 a.m., but one of the horses
injured his leg among the rocks, and the wound had to be sewn up, which
delayed us till 8.20 a.m., when we steered north-west to Jasper Creek,
which, after much labour in forcing a passage through the reeds, we
crossed at 11.25 a.m., and at 12.55 p.m. encamped on the bank of the
Victoria, at the commencement of the rocky gorge through Stokes' Range.
1st May.
Proceeded down the river, leaving the camp at 6.50 a.m., and at 2.15 p.m.
encamped a short distance above our camp of the 8th December, 1855.
2nd May.
Continued route from 6.45 a.m. till 1.0 p.m., and encamped one mile above
our bivouac of the 28th December.
3rd May.
Resumed our journey at 6.45 a.m. and followed the left bank of the river
till 10.10 a.m., when we encamped at the spot where we crossed the
Victoria on the 28th November, 1855; at 2.0 p.m. crossed the river with
Mr. H. Gregory, and rode to the east to examine a large creek which
joined the Victoria two miles below the camp. The creek was thirty to
forty yards wide, with high muddy banks covered with reeds, and the marks
of floods were fifty feet above its present level; the general appearance
was that of a stream having a course of forty to fifty miles. The wide
flat on the left bank of the creek was well grassed; but the valley was
bounded by steep sandstone hills covered with triodia and scrub; returned
to the camp at 5.0 p.m.
6th May.
As we should have to pass this camp on our route to the Gulf of
Carpentaria, I deposited 100 pounds of flour and a quantity of shot and
lead, horse-shoes, etc., in a cleft in the rocks, and covered them with
large stones, and then set the grass on fire to deface our tracks; at
8.15 a.m. left the camp and proceeded along our former track till noon,
and camped on a small creek two miles east-south-east from Bynoe Range.
7th May.
Left the camp at 8.10 a.m. and steered north 240 degrees east over a
level grassy country, wooded with bauhinia, acacia, and eucalypti--the
latter being more abundant as we advanced; at 1.0 p.m. the country
changed to low rocky ridges of chert and limestone, and at 2.0 p.m.
encamped at a small creek trending north-west, and in which a few small
muddy pools of water remained. At noon we passed a party of five or six
blacks, who shouted to us from a distance, but would not approach within
200 yards. They were armed with spears, and seemed to be on their return
from hunting, as the grass was on fire to the south.
8th May.
At 7.20 resumed our journey, and steering west crossed a fine creek with
fine pools and water-pandanus growing on the banks. We then traversed a
very rocky country, at the southern base of the sandstone range, till
11.0, when we came to a more level and grassy country, consisting of
chert ridges. At noon steered north 300 degrees east down the valley of a
small creek, and soon entered a deep valley bounded on both sides by
steep sandstone hills. At 1.0 p.m. turned north 320 degrees east, and at
2.20 camped at a shallow pool in the bed of the creek, which was now in
the limestone rock.