10th March.
We had observed that a creek appeared to join the salt lake to the
north-east angle. There yet remained a possibility that the waters of the
lake might find an outlet to the east and pass north of Mount Wilson; we
therefore steered east from the camp at 6.45 a.m. and passed close to the
south of a small salt lake (dry) three-quarters of a mile in diameter,
and then traversed a level sandy country thickly wooded with acacia and a
few white-gum trees. At 8.15 struck a small grassy watercourse with broad
shallow pools; this we followed down to the south-south-west to the large
salt lake, close to which it was joined by a small sandy creek coming
from the east. Having reached the bank of the lake at 10.0, steered south
along its shore till 11.15, when its shore trended to the
west-south-west, and there was a small well-defined bank without any
break to the point which had been the limit of our examination from the
southern part of the lake, and thus determined that there was no outlet
for the water to the eastward. As the whole country to the south was one
vast sandy desert, destitute of any indications of the existence of
water, it was clear that no useful results could arise from any attempt
to penetrate this inhospitable region, especially as the loss of any of
the horses might deprive the expedition of the means for carrying out the
explorations towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. I therefore determined on
commencing our retreat to the Victoria River while it was practicable, as
the rapid evaporation and increasing saltness of the water in this arid
and inhospitable region warned us that each day we delayed increased the
difficulty of the return, and it was possible that we were cut off from
any communication with the party at the depot by an impassable tract of
dry country, and might be compelled to maintain ourselves on the lower
part of the creek till the ensuing rainy season. Returned to the creek at
the north-east angle of the lake and encamped. The morning was cloudy
with a strong hot wind from the east and south-east; the night calm and
misty.
11th March.
At 6.10 a.m. left the camp and followed the creek to the
north-north-east, but it soon spread into a number of small gullies,
which drained a patch of clay land. At 7.0 steered north through a wood
of acacia growing on loose sandy soil. Entering the open sandy plain at
8.15, a few small white-gum trees were scattered over this part of the
plain, which was quite level, the loose sand being covered with triodia,
which partially concealed the glaring red colour of the ground. Observing
a low abrupt hill a little to the east of our course, deviated towards
it, and ascended it at 10.0. It was less than 100 feet above the plains,
and composed of the same sandstone which prevails over the whole of the
country south of the Victoria. The view was cheerless in the extreme.
From north 26 degrees east to north 166 degrees east, the country was a
level plain with small isolated or grouped hills of red sandstone, but
not forming any definite ranges; the even height and peculiar table
summits appear to indicate that they are only small remaining portions of
a sandstone tableland or plain nearly the whole of which has been
removed, the strata, however, had a dip to the east of one or two
degrees. The vegetation on this part of the country was reduced to a few
stunted gum-trees, hakea bushes, and triodia, the whole extremely barren
in appearance. The remaining portion of the horizon was one even straight
line; not a hill or break of any kind was visible, and, except the narrow
line of the creek, was barren and worthless in the extreme, the red soil
of the level portions of the surface being partially clothed with triodia
and a few small trees, or rather bushes, rendered the long straight
ridges of fiery-red drifting sand more conspicuous. The wind being
strong, we observed the smoke of several fires along the course of
Sturt's Creek, and also one near Mount Mueller, to the north-east,
indicating the existence of natives in that direction, and doubtless of
water in that locality, as it was a day's journey from the creek. Our
course was now north 340 degrees east, and on approaching the creek
passed through a patch of casuarina forest, which was remarkable, as they
are the only trees of this genus we had seen on the coast since landing
at the Victoria, though abundant in all other parts of Australia. At 1.35
p.m. reached Sturt's Creek and halted at our camp of the 2nd March; there
was a strong hot wind from the east during the day.
12th March.
Resumed our route at 5.50 a.m. and steered north 20 degrees east till
8.0, then 40 degrees and 60 degrees till 1.0 p.m., when we encamped at a
shallow pool of water near the creek, and about three miles above camp
48, as the route only traversed the level flats near the creek. Nothing
worthy of further notice was seen, the channel being split into small
hollows, some of which retained a little water. The grass was much dried
up and limited to the flat near the creek, the more remote portions being
covered with triodia. The day was hot and nearly calm, but at noon we
were benefited by a few passing clouds, and at 6.0 p.m. a dry
thunderstorm cooled the air from 100 degrees to 93 degrees, but the
temperature rose at 8.0 to 96 degrees.
13th March.
At 5.50 steered north 10 degrees east, crossing the creek several times,
and at 10.0 turned to the north-north-east and north-east, crossing the
sandstone hills, round which the creek turns at a right angle, and at
12.10 p.m. camped on the creek near our track of the 29th February.
Nearly all the pools of water had dried up, and the water at the camp had
become brackish; some of the pools, however, must be permanent, as there
were small fish in them. A great party of natives appeared to be
travelling up the creek, as fresh fires are constantly seen to the
north-east along its course. A cool breeze from the west to north-east
moderated the heat, the temperature at 2 p.m. 103 degrees; passing clouds
from the east in the afternoon.