6th December.
The day commenced with a heavy thundershower, which continued for several
hours; but the rain not being quite so heavy at 6 a.m., we started and
proceeded along the bank of the river to a hill about one and a half
miles south-west of the bivouac. On ascending the hill, we found that
though the elevation and position accommodated a fine view in fine
weather, yet the rain at the present time obscured all distant objects,
but the country to the south and west consisted of flat-topped sandstone
hills with large open valleys between; to the east the view was
obstructed by rising ground, while to the north lay the vast grassy plain
which we had traversed during the last two days. The western branch of
the river turned to the west-south-west along the foot of the sandstone
ranges, its course being marked by a line of green trees, which
contrasted strongly with the white grass on the open plains on its banks.
The south branch of the river appeared to come from a valley trending
south-south-east, but the thick mist obscured that part of the country.
As we had now examined the country sufficiently to enable the main party
to advance a whole degree of latitude without any great impediment, and
ascertained the general character of the country and the nature of the
obstacles to be encountered, and on which the equipment of the party
would in some measure depend, we turned our steps towards the principal
camp, crossing the western branch of the river at 9.50, and reached our
camp of the 4th at 3.20 p.m. The rain this morning cooled the air to 74
degrees at 9 a.m. and 85 degrees at sunset.
7th December.
Resumed our journey down the river, following the outward track from 5.40
a.m. till 11.0, when we halted till 3.25 p.m. Thermometer at noon 102
degrees, with a cool southerly breeze; wet bulb, 78 degrees. Resuming our
route, crossed to the right bank of the river, and bivouacked at the
termination of the plains.
8th December.
At 5.45 a.m. proceeded down the right bank of the river, which was very
rocky and steep; we therefore crossed to the left bank, and at 11.0
halted one mile above the bivouac of the 29 ultimo. Between 2.0 and 3.0
p.m. there was a heavy thunderstorm, when half an inch of rain fell; at
3.45 resumed our journey, and encamped about four miles lower down the
river.
9th December.
Followed the left bank of the river from 6.0 to 11.0 a.m.; found the
travelling less stony and intersected by gullies than the right bank; at
3.50 p.m. resumed our route, and at 6.30 encamped.
10th December.
Travelled down the river from 5.45 till 10.0 a.m.; when we halted a
quarter of a mile above the camp of the 27th November. At 2.0 p.m. a
heavy thundershower cooled the atmosphere from 100 degrees to 77 degrees.
Resumed our journey at 3.0 and at 6.30 camped in the level plain at the
foot of the Fitzroy Range, on the east side, water being abundant in
every hollow, and since we passed up the river there has been heavy rain
in this part of the country, and several of the gullies have been running
eight feet deep. Shot a turkey and three black ibis. The Fitzroy Range
extends about two miles north of a line from the gorge of the river to
Bynoe Range, the Victoria winding round the north end of the range, and
some tributary creeks appear to join from the north, as a valley extends
several miles in that direction. The rain does not appear to have been
general over the country, as it often occurs that after travelling over
two or three miles of green grass where the gullies show signs of recent
flood, that this beautiful verdure suddenly ceases, and we again
encounter a dry and parched country which exhibits all the signs of an
Australian summer.
11th December.
Left our camp at 5.45 a.m., and, steering west, crossed the low ridge of
the Fitzroy Range, and having taken bearings of the features of the
country, steered north 260 degrees east through the level plain which
occupies the space between Wickham Heights and the Fitzroy Range, and
which was named Beagle Valley by Captain Stokes. The soil of this plain
is a brown clay, which in the dry weather crumbles into small pieces, so
that the horses sink deeply into it; but in the wet season the whole is
deep mud; it, however, appears to be very fertile, and produces an
abundance of grass; the trees consist of bauhinia, acacia, and some
eucalypti. Halting from 10.0 a.m. till 4.0 p.m. changed course to north
245 degrees east, and after traversing a grassy box flat for two hours,
camped at a small watercourse with pools of rainwater in a rocky
limestone channel.