Adopting the course which I have found most convenient on similar
occasions, I now proceed to offer a few remarks on the general features,
productions, and natural capabilities, etc., of the country traversed by
the Expedition, which could not, without disadvantage, have been
introduced into the foregoing narrative. These remarks have already
appeared at the conclusion of my report published on the 18th November,
1861, but are equally applicable to the present publication.
Commencing with its geographical and geological peculiarities, that
portion of the country that came under our observation consists of a
succession of terraces, rising inland for nearly 200 miles, more or less
broken up by volcanic hills towards the coast. The first belt averages
from ten to forty miles in width from the sea, and is a nearly level
plain, slightly ascending to the southward, with an elevation of from 40
to 100 feet, the soil being generally either light loam or strong clays,
according as it is the result of the disintegration of the granite rocks
that occasionally protrude above its surface, or of volcanic rocks of
black scoria that frequently interrupt the general level; hills of this
nature also constitute the greater portion of the more elevated islands
off the coast, Cape Lambert, and the promontory that shelters the western
side of Nickol Bay. The generality of these rocks do not, however, yield
so rich a soil as might be expected from their origin. This is owing to
the absence of actual lava, the eruptive heat having nearly been
sufficient to convert the superincumbent primary and tertiary rocks into
a vitreous scoria, having a specific gravity of 3.2, and is highly
indestructible in its texture.
Proceeding inland for the next fifty or sixty miles is a granite country
that has been originally capped with horizontal sandstones, and has an
elevation of about 1000 feet. This range terminates to the southward in
level plains of good soil, the produce of the next series of more
elevated country, while towards the northern edges the granite and
sandstones have undergone great changes through the action of numerous
trap dykes, that have greatly disturbed its surface, producing
metamorphic rocks, some resembling jasper, and others highly cellular and
scoriaceous.
In about latitude 22 degrees, on the meridian of Nickol Bay, we came upon
another and more elevated range trending away to the south-east, having
an altitude of 2500 feet above the sea. This, unlike the last section,
has a southern escarpment of 500 or 600 feet, and consists of horizontal
sandstones and conglomerates, which have comparatively undergone little
change, and has an average breadth of eight or ten miles, the southern
flank being bordered by fertile valleys of strong loamy clays, merging
gradually to the southward into stony ridges and hills, some having an
elevation of nearly 4000 feet, the culminating point being attained at
Mount Bruce, in latitude 22 degrees 30 minutes.
From this point the country gradually falls to the Ashburton, the bed of
which river, in the same meridian as the bay, is about 1600 feet above
the sea, and the adjoining ranges not above 2200 feet, or about the same
as the country on the Gascoyne, Lyons, and Upper Murchison.
Of minerals I was unable to discover any traces, except iron. Quartz
reefs occasionally traversed the country in a north-north-east and
south-south-west direction, or nearly the same as the mineral lodes at
Champion Bay; but I could not find any instance in which this rock
offered much to indicate the probable existence of gold, it being far
surpassed in this respect by the rocks on the Upper Murchison. Coal does
not appear likely to be found within the limits of the country passed
over, unless towards the easternmost point attained by the Expedition.
With respect to the harbours on the coast, I can only speak of Nickol Bay
and the anchorage under Rosemary and the adjacent islands. The former I
consider only second to King George's Sound, as it can be entered in all
weathers, either from the north or north-east, and there is reason to
believe that a safe passage exists between Legendre and Dolphin Islands,
leading into Mermaid Straits, where there appears to be an excellent
harbour at all seasons of the year.
The soundings towards the eastern and western shores of Nickol Bay, taken
at low water, show sufficient depth for vessels of considerable tonnage
to lie within a cable's length of the shore, the bottom being fine sand
and soft mud. Towards the head of the bay the water is much shallower,
not carrying more than two fathoms two miles from the shore. No reefs are
known to exist in this bay, except quite close into land.
In making the running survey of the western promontory I found that all
to the north of Sloping Head was an island, having a boat channel between
from half a mile to a mile wide. To the outer portion I therefore gave
the name of Dolphin Island.
The tides are tolerably regular, and average sixteen feet, but at the
spring they rise twenty-one feet, on which occasions the whole of the
western promontory, including the high lands for several miles to the
westward, are entirely cut off by the sea, the other opening being under
Enderby Island--a circumstance that greatly detracts from the value of
these otherwise fine harbours, as it would require two miles of causeway
to connect the best landing place, where water is to be found, with the
mainland.
The average declination of the needle throughout this district I found to
be 1 degree east, the result of many amplitudes and azimuths; there is,
however, in the vicinity of many of the volcanic hills great local
attraction.
Of the climate I can only say that during the five months we remained on
the coast we never experienced the same inconvenience from it that we
frequently have done within the limits of the settled districts of the
colony; the weather was, however, principally fine, and the sky clear
during our stay, only two showers having occurred--one at the latter end
of May and the other in June. The meteorological register kept at Nickol
Bay shows the following results, from observations taken at all hours of
the day and night:--
COLUMN 1: MONTH IN WHICH THERMOMETER READING WAS RECORDED.
COLUMN 2: MAXIMUM.
COLUMN 3: MINIMUM.
May : 80 : 65.
June : 76 : 63.
July : 78 : 56.
August : 80 : 54.
September : 83 : 65.
October : 92 : 70.
Under the peculiar circumstance of the thermometer being placed on a
sandbank in the sun during the hot days in October, it rose to 178
degrees of Fahrenheit, whilst the lowest it ever fell to was up in the
hills, in July, when it was 2 degrees below freezing just before sunrise.
The winds continued to blow almost uninterruptedly from the east and
south-east during the first four months, veering to the south-south-east
and south and occasionally to the north-east. Latterly the wind was
alternately south-east in the morning, and north-west or westerly in the
afternoon; the sky becoming frequently overcast, and every appearance of
the near approach of the rainy season, which it has been observed by
navigators and explorers to do about the beginning of November, and
continue to March.
Amongst the natural productions I would first briefly refer to the beds
of the pearl oysters, as they are likely to become of immediate
commercial importance, considerable numbers having been gathered by the
crew of the Dolphin at their leisure time, the aggregate value of which,
I am told, is between 500 and 600 pounds; besides pearls, one of which
has been valued by competent persons at 25 pounds. The limits of the bed
are as yet undefined, but there is good reason to believe, from the
position of it, that with proper apparatus ships could soon be loaded
with them.
Sandalwood was found in small quantities, very highly scented, but too
widely scattered to become of much importance as an article of export.
Of indigenous fruits, etc., we observed the adansonia, or gouty-stemmed
tree of Sir G. Grey (nearly allied to the baobab or monkey bread-fruit of
Southern Africa), sweet and water melons similar to those formerly seen
by me on the Lyons River, but of much larger size; a small gourd; a wild
fig, well-tasted; and a sweet plum, very palatable, were found in
tolerable abundance.
I have already spoken of the palms which grow on the bank of the
Fortescue; they are very handsome and grow to the height of forty feet,
but not having brought in any specimens, they have not yet been
identified as to their variety.
Tobacco does not grow so luxuriantly here as on the Lyons River, but the
natives collect it, and after preparation, chew it; but we did not on any
occasion observe them to smoke.
Many beautiful flowers were also collected, which will be forwarded to
some of the most eminent botanists, to be described and classified.
It now only remains for me to give an opinion on the capabilities of the
country for colonisation. It would be almost impossible to particularise
the positions or define the limits of country adapted for grazing
purposes beyond the reference already made to them. The total amount of
land available for this purpose within the limit of our route I should
estimate at not less than two or three millions of acres, and of this I
may safely say 200,000 are suitable for agricultural purposes, the
greater portion of which lies on the two flanks of the Hamersley Range,
on the banks of the DeGrey and its tributaries, and on the Lower
Sherlock.
Of the fitness of this district for the growth of wool, which, on account
of its being an intertropical country, it is generally supposed it would
be unsuitable, I would remark that its elevation above the sea appears
likely to obviate the objection, and render it probable that sheep may
not degenerate in the same way they are found to do in other tropical
countries; at any rate, flocks are now being pushed over on to the same
latitude in Queensland, and we do not hear of the wool-grower complaining
that such is the case there.
As to its fitness for the growth of cereals, it is quite possible that
wheat and barley may not come to the same degree of perfection they do in
the more temperate latitudes of Australia, but there is no reason to
doubt its capability of growing sufficient grain for the support of a
numerous population.
What it appears more highly qualified for than anything else is the
growth of cotton--a question which at the present juncture cannot be lost
sight of. From my personal observation of the cultivation of this plant
in Egypt, and the attention I have recently paid to this subject while in
Europe, I feel confident that a very considerable portion of the arable
lands on the DeGrey and Sherlock are precisely the soils adapted for the
production of this valuable commodity. As, however, I purpose to make
this the subject of a more lengthy paper at a future period, I will not
now venture to enlarge upon it.
As the number and disposition of the aborigines is likely to have some
effect on the first settlement of a district, I would give it as my
opinion that these people will not prove particularly troublesome to the
settlers, if properly and fairly treated. They are not numerous, and
appear very willing to take employ under Europeans, and will no doubt
soon be made as useful as in the other districts. In stature they rather
exceed the usual standard, some of them measuring two or three inches
over six feet.
In bringing my report to a close, I would wish to observe, that although
the results of the Expedition have fallen short of my sanguine hopes with
regard to Geographical discovery, and will, I am afraid, in some degree
disappoint the anticipations of the eminent Geographers who have lent
their valuable aid in promoting the undertaking, yet I cannot but hope
that the large amount of additional fertile country it has brought to our
knowledge will compensate in some degree for the deficiency. I am,
however, unable to refrain from again expressing my opinion, that had not
so many concurrent circumstances combined to retard the departure of the
Expedition until so late in the season, and it had arrived on the coast
at the time originally recommended by the Geographical Society, it would,
in all probability, have resulted in the full accomplishment of the
object they had in view.
It now devolves upon me to perform the pleasing duty of recording my
entire satisfaction with the manner in which the whole of the members of
the Expedition put forward their best energies in the performance of
their respective functions. To Mr. Turner I am indebted for the care
bestowed on the management of the store department, which came under his
immediate charge. To Messrs. Brockman and Hall, J. McCourt, and James,
are due my acknowledgments for the cheerful alacrity with which they
performed the duties allotted to them.
Of Messrs. Maitland, Brown and J. Harding I cannot speak too highly.
Accompanying me on all the extra services upon which I was engaged, they
had to endure privations of no ordinary description, which they met with
a spirit of steady fortitude deserving of the highest praise. Of the
valuable services rendered to the Expedition and to science by Mr. P.
Walcott I have already had occasion to refer, and I sincerely hope that
his talents and zeal in the pursuits of Botany and Natural History may
meet a more substantial reward than the thanks which are justly due to
him and those gentlemen who have given their time and talents
gratuitously in the service of their fellow-colonists.
To Captain Dixon and the officers and crew of the Dolphin every praise is
due for the assistance which on all occasions they promptly afforded in
aiding the Expedition, and for which I gladly avail myself of the present
opportunity to return them my best thanks.
In conclusion, permit me to tender Your Excellency my acknowledgments for
the readiness with which you have acceded to my various suggestions in
carrying out the arrangements of the Expedition since the passing of the
vote of money in aid by the local legislature.