1st October.
As the plains were now dry and parched, we determined to follow up the
Strelley to the ranges before striking west to the Yule. At first the
river spread out into so many wide grassy channels that it was difficult
to trace it; but at four or five miles collected into one bed, about 100
yards wide, in which were a few small pools. Up to this point the country
had been fertile, the soil being an alluvial clay, resulting from
volcanic rocks; but after getting clear of the line of hills, the soil
became poor and hungry, yielding little else but triodia and acacia
bushes; water was procured in several places in the course of the day's
march; our course having been nearly due south. Camp 93.
Latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds.
2nd October.
The river led us this morning a little to the eastward of south, through
a country very similar to yesterday. Late in the day we crossed a
considerable tributary coming from the south-east, which was now quite
dry, and takes its rise in a bold range of granite hills now visible to
the southward, at the distance of ten or twelve miles, and forms a part
of the main tableland of this part of the coast; the plain we had been
passing over being only a sea-flat, with a few detached ranges widely
scattered over its surface. The river now began to trend to the westward,
granite rocks showing themselves on the surface in large masses. Water
was occasionally procurable, which was very important, as the horses
could not travel many hours without it, although the heaviest packs were
reduced below 100 pounds. We had now only six saddle-horses, so that two
of the party had to walk by turns for an hour at a time. We halted late
in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 17 seconds. Camp 94.
3rd October.
Started at 6.30 a.m., and in an hour came upon a fine pool in the
granite, which was very acceptable, as we had encamped overnight without
any water. The channel of the river here deepened considerably, was full
of rocks, and contained plenty of water. Skirting the ranges for some
distance, several tributaries joined from the southward. The country,
although rocky, improved much in general appearance; grass was abundant,
and game frequently met with. At night we encamped on a small pool in the
bed of the river about five miles from the foot of the range. Cockatoos
and pigeons came in great numbers to drink at the pool about sundown.
Camp 95.
Latitude 20 degrees 56 minutes 33 seconds, longitude 119 degrees 10
minutes by account.
4th October.
Made an early start, and travelled four miles on a south-west course,
when the river divided into two channels, the main one coming from a deep
gorge to the south-south-east, exactly in the direction in which we had
left the Strelley on our outward route, at a distance of about thirty
miles; identifying the stream with some degree of certainty. Taking the
western branch, which would lead us towards the Yule, we followed it up
until long past noon into a hilly country, without meeting with water;
we, however, saw a large extent of fine grazing land which would make an
excellent summer station when the flats were inundated. Having rested
during the heat of the day, which had lately become rather oppressive, we
resumed a westerly course, having run out the head watercourses of the
western branch of the Strelley. A few miles brought us to a considerable
stream-bed trending to the north-west, which was followed down till some
time after dark, having procured a few gallons of water from a native
well in the bed of a creek. To-day we had travelled for nine hours, and
accomplished a distance of twenty-two miles, the longest day's march we
had made for many weeks past. Early in the day we had noticed what we
took for a great number of native fires springing up in all directions,
and quickly to die away again; we, however, found it to be a number of
whirlwinds, carrying with them huge columns of charcoal and dust, which
traversed the plains sometimes for miles before they broke. Camp 96.
Latitude 21 degrees 4 minutes.