3rd September.
This morning we returned to the native encampment for water, and found
that they had already deserted it, leaving many of their things
behind--amongst others, a very singular head-dress, shaped like a helmet.
It consisted of a circular band, made of twisted grass, the size of the
head, into which were stuck ten or twelve upright twigs, brought together
into a point two feet high, which was woven like an open basket, with
yarn made of opossum fur; the whole no doubt being considered highly
ornamental by the wearers, but of not the least service as an article of
protection for the head, either from the sun or in war. Having watered
the horses, we entered the sand-plain, travelling between the ridges,
which ran in straight lines parallel to each other at the distance of
several hundred yards apart, the sand being thrown by the south-east
gales into acute ridges thirty to sixty feet high, their direction being
almost invariably north 109 degrees east. Travelling to 2.15 p.m., we got
over about eighteen miles, the valleys yielding little else but triodia,
with occasional patches of stunted gum forest, in which was found a
little good grass, on which were feeding flights of pigeons and a variety
of parrot new to us, but which I believe to be the golden-backed parakeet
(Psephotus chrysopterygius) of Gould. As no water could be found, and
many of the horses gave signs of being greatly distressed, no change
being observable in the country for many miles ahead, a few very distant
ranges being the only objects visible, we were obliged to have recourse
to the only safe expedient of falling back and forming a depot. Resting
to 5.10, we commenced a retreat until 7.20, having been obliged to
abandon a horse of Mr. Brown's, quite exhausted. Camp 75.
4th September.
At 6.30 a.m. resumed our retreat, and by noon arrived at the waterhole of
the 2nd, having left two more horses behind, which, however, Mr. Brown
and myself carried out water to in the course of the evening and drove
them in during the night.
5th September.
Leaving the party to rest, I walked ten or twelve miles round to the
south-south-eastward, along the foot of the range, in search of water,
and to ascertain if a better line of country could be found in that
direction, but it continued to maintain the same arid appearance, and I
only came on one pool in a gully four miles from the camp. Depot.
6th September.
Leaving Mr. Turner and four of the party in depot, with instructions to
remain there three days, and then fall back upon the Oakover, where there
was much better feed, I started with Messrs. Brown and Harding, taking
six of the strongest horses, sixteen days' rations and six gallons of
water, and steered south-south-east along the ranges for six or eight
miles, looking for some stream-bed that might lead us through the plains,
but was disappointed to find that they were all lost in the first mile
after leaving the hills, and as crossing the numerous ridges of sand
proved very fatiguing to the horses, we determined once more to attempt
to strike to the eastward between the ridges, which we did for fifteen
miles, when our horses again showed signs of failing us, which left us
the only alternative of either pushing on at all hazards to a distant
range that was now just visible to the eastward, where, from the numerous
native fires and general depression of the country, there was every
reason to think a large river would be found to exist, or to make for
some deep rocky gorges in the granite hills ten miles to the south, in
which there was every prospect of finding water. In the former case the
travelling would be smoothest, but the distance so great that, in the
event of our failing to obtain water, we probably should not succeed in
bringing back one of our horses; while, in the latter, we should have to
climb over the sand ridges, which we had already found so fatiguing; this
course, however, involved the least amount of risk, and we accordingly
struck south four miles, and halted for the night. Camp 76.