We started off at a quick pace, clearing sixteen miles by noon, over some
fine open grassy flats, timbered for nearly a mile back from the river;
one tributary 100 yards wide having joined from the north, and a smaller
one from the south. Leaving the party busily occupied catching fish,
which were abundant in this part of the river and much resembling those
found in the Murchison, but larger, some of them being upwards of a pound
in weight, I walked with Mr. Nairn to the summit of a granite hill two
miles to the northward, from which I had a number of cross-bearings to
hills already observed from Mount Thompson. One of considerable elevation
bearing north 121 degrees 30 minutes east, distance fifty miles, lay
directly up the valley of the river, and was ultimately named Mount
Augustus, after my brother, now conducting the expedition in quest of the
remains of Dr. Leichhardt. Pushing on twelve miles further, we halted for
the night in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 39 seconds. Tobacco here grew
to sufficient size for manufacture, occupying many hundred acres of the
best land; a plant much resembling stramonium was also abundant on the
moist land, yielding a strongly offensive odour from its leaves.
1st June.
For the first twelve miles along the river the flats much improved, and
were only occasionally broken up by stony ridges; good country was seen
to extend up the tributaries, several of which came in from the north. To
the south, at two or three miles distant, and running parallel to the
river for many miles, was an even grassy range of moderate elevation
nearly destitute of trees or bushes; the acacia and melaleuca, which had
hitherto generally covered the plains, was evidently fast giving way to
an open undulating and thinly-grassed country, the back lands being
however still too stony to yield much pasture, the summer grass being
already parched and dry, the flats alone continuing moist and verdant.
At our noon halt the main river had ceased to flow, but a tributary
coming from the north-east had a small stream still running in the bottom
of a muddy channel down which the recent floods had brought flags and
portions of bulrush, the only instance throughout the district in which
we had observed them.
The next ten miles passed over between this and sunset was chiefly an
alluvial flat, much resembling the fertile lands near the mouth of the
Greenough; the acacias and several varieties of melaleuca, amongst which
was the Callistemon phoeniceus, with its beautiful scarlet flowers, were
growing with tropical luxuriance, the soil in many places being still
saturated with moisture. A water-melon was here first observed, the fruit
not attaining to more than two inches in length, but not otherwise
differing from the cultivated kinds; we also found a fruit in shape like
a pear, three inches in length, growing on a small creeper, the interior
of the fruit consisting of a number of small flat seeds, to which were
attached a bundle of long silky fibres resembling cotton. Our bivouac was
in latitude 24 degrees 7 minutes 52 seconds, near a fine pool of fresh
water, with limestone cropping out in a thin bed on the banks; we had
frequently met with it distributed in small nodules scattered over a
large portion of the country on the Upper Murchison.
Since quitting the mouth of the Gascoyne we had seen natives almost
daily; to-night we again found ourselves in close proximity to a large
encampment of them.
2nd June.
Our neighbours paid us an early visit this morning, some of them
evidently bent on mischief, but were restrained by others more
prudent--not, however, before it had nearly cost one of them his life;
having pointed a spear at Mr. Moore, Dugel, whose natural instincts are
very destructive, hastily took aim at him, but fortunately pulled the
wrong trigger, which just gave his adversary time to lower his weapon; on
our mounting our horses they hastily fell back and joined their other
companions at their camp, which was just in our line of march; about
thirty of them awaited our approach with some tokens of defiance, but
most of them decamped on our coming within spear's throw.