2nd September, 1848.
Started for Toodyay, with Mr. C.F. Gregory and five horses for the
expedition to Shark's Bay; bivouacked at Worrilloo.
3rd September.
Proceeded to Toodyay, where Messrs. L. Burges, J. Walcott, and A. Bedart
joined on the 4th, bringing six horses with them. Having had the horses
shod at Ferguson's, we continued our journey to Mr. Lefroy's station,
near Bebano, which we reached on the 7th. The following day the cart,
with our provisions, etc., arrived, accompanied by private W. King.
Having obtained another horse from Mr. Lefroy, on the 9th we left
Welbing, with ten pack and two riding horses, carrying three months'
provisions, etc. Steering north by west for the first twenty miles,
generally grassy, we entered the extensive sandy plains which occupy
almost the whole country between the Moore and Irwin rivers. The rainy
season having scarcely ended, we found both water and grass for our
horses every night; and, not meeting with any serious impediments, we
reached the upper part of the Arrowsmith Brook on the 13th. Here the
country improved, and the valleys, in which the stream takes its rise,
were estimated to contain about 10,000 acres of tolerable sheep pasture.
Early the ensuing day we entered the Irwin Plains; crossing the eastern
branches of the river, we encamped, on the 15th, on the northern branch,
three-quarters of a mile below the spot where the coal was first
discovered. The Irwin Plains presented a beautiful aspect, being covered
with rich grass and vegetation; the soil is generally good; but most of
the grasses being of the annual species, would not afford good pasturage
in the summer, and in consequence they are better suited for agriculture,
while the open character of the country would render clearing for the
plough a matter of little expense. While dinner was preparing, the
horses, being herded, suddenly started off at full speed, in consequence
of a large stone rolled down by one of the party in ascending the hill.
Two of the remaining horses were immediately saddled, and Mr. Burges and
myself started to catch them; in about a mile we came up with them at the
foot of an almost perpendicular cliff; on seeing us they started off, and
scrambling up the rocks like goats, left us far behind; we did not
overtake them for several miles, when with some difficulty we captured
one, but had the mortification of losing one of the saddled horses in
exchange. Leaving the captured horse in charge of Mr. Burges, I followed
the rest; caught another after a smart ride of three miles, but it was
not till I reached the East Irwin that I could again overtake the rest,
when, favoured by the steep bank of the stream, I succeeded in securing
our truant steeds. It was now dark, and being unable to manage nine
horses by myself, I tethered several of the wildest, and started with two
of the best for the encampment ten miles distant, which, owing to the
nature of the country, I did not reach till midnight. Mr. Burges had
arrived about an hour previous with the horse first caught. Light showers
in the morning.
16th September.
Messrs. Bedart, C. Gregory, and J. Walcott started to bring in the
horses; the rest of the party was employed in repairing damages of the
harness, and at 3.0 p.m. the party returned with the horses. Slight
showers in the morning.
17th September (Sunday).
Light clouds from the south-west; thunder; rain in the evening. Read
prayers.
18th September.
Left the bivouac at 8.15 a.m., and followed upwards the main branch of
the Irwin to the north-north-east, through a steep and rocky valley, the
sandstone hills in some parts approaching the river, so as to render it
necessary to cross frequently with the pack-horses. The very level
character of the summits of these hills gives the country the appearance
of having been once a plain, through which the valley of the stream has
since been worn by the action of water; the upper stratum is a hard red
sandstone, resting on a softer rock of a sandy or clayey character,
beneath which the shales and rocks belonging to the coal formation show
themselves, lying in unconformable beds, and often at a very high angle.
At 9.25 the stream divided into two branches, that to the east being the
most considerable; at this spot the sandstone ceased, and we commenced
ascending the granite range, the direction of which was about
north-north-west. The soil was poor and stony, producing a little feed
for stock; but it could scarcely be made available, as the country is
completely covered with thickets of acacia of small growth. At 4 p.m.
bivouacked on a small watercourse running through a level grassy flat,
bounded on both sides by thickets of wattle.