11th September.
Started at 7.40 a.m., and, steering 240 degrees, crossed the river, left
the grassy flats, and entered the sandy downs; at 8.45 ascended a steep
sandstone cliff, and from the top had a distant view of the sea; the
river about one and a half miles to the south, where a large branch
joined it from the east about two miles below the bivouac. At 9.35
steered 267 degrees over open sandy downs, and at 10.35 struck the river,
running north through beautiful grassy flats timbered with York and
white-gums and wattles; there were many fine pools of water, which
appeared to be permanent. After an unsuccessful attempt to cross the
river, followed it northerly till 11.0; then west-north-west till 11.20,
and then west-south-west till 11.45, when we found a practicable crossing
to the left bank, and, steering west by south, ascended a sandy limestone
ridge; then on a west-south-west course followed the valley of the river
down to its mouth, which was reached at 3.40 p.m. The entrance of the
river was choked up with sand and rocks, and not passable for even small
boats. This river appears to be the Irwin River of Captain Grey, as this
spot is only one and a half miles to the south of the position assigned
to it on Arrowsmith's map of this part of the coast. At 4.30 left the
beach and retraced our steps to where we crossed the river at 1.30, and
bivouacked at 5.50.
Latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds; longitude 114 degrees 59
minutes.
12th September.
At 7.50 a.m. resumed our journey up the river, steering north-east till
8.25; then east along the north bank, through rich grassy flats timbered
with York gum. At 10.20 left the river and entered the sandy downs; at
10.30 crossed a small stream with some fine springs; at 11.0 changed the
course to east by south; at noon altered the course to 83 degrees,
crossing the river at 12.50 p.m., where it is joined by the east branch,
which is of equal size with the northern one; followed the east branch up
through wide grassy flats till 2.0, and camped.
The country consists of elevated sandy downs covered with heathy bushes
and a few small banksia trees, it being only on the alluvial flats of the
river that there is any grass or good soil. Large flocks of
cockatoos--white, black with white tails, and black with red tails--came
to water near the camp; some were shot, also a turkey, the flesh of which
was extremely bitter and scarcely eatable. Several kangaroos were seen on
the sandy downs.
Latitude 29 degrees 11 minutes 20 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 18
minutes.
13th September.
At 7.55 a.m. left the Irwin River and steered a course 160 degrees, over
open sandy downs of considerable elevation; at 11.45 halted for half an
hour and shot a kangaroo, which proved a welcome addition to the
commissariat; at 1.30 p.m. changed the course to 142 degrees, and at 2.30
came to a running stream three yards wide. This we assumed to be the
Arrowsmith River of Captain Grey, and as there was little prospect of
finding water farther on, we bivouacked, though there was only a little
grass close to the bank of the stream and the rest of the country covered
with short scrub.
Latitude 29 degrees 27 minutes 9 seconds.
14th September.
Left the bivouac at 8.35 a.m., and steered 160 degrees over sandy downs
with ridges of red sandstone till 3.0 p.m., when the course was altered
to 220 degrees, following down a shallow valley; at 4.0 turned
west-south-west, and at 5.15 bivouacked in a swampy spot with some grass;
obtaining water by digging in the sand.
Latitude 29 degrees 48 minutes 10 seconds; longitude 115 degrees 32
minutes.
15th September.
Leaving the bivouac at 8.0 a.m., steered 214 degrees over scrubby country
with patches of gum forest; at 9.0 turned to 160 degrees, crossed a
country of sand and ironstone of considerable elevation; at 3.30 p.m.
altered the course to 170 degrees, and followed down a scrubby valley
till 5.0; then 115 degrees for half an hour, and came to a native well in
a patch of York gum-trees, where we camped. The last three hours our
progress was scarcely six miles, as one of the horses knocked up.
Latitude 30 degrees 10 minutes; longitude 115 degrees 39 minutes.