CHAPTER VIII

THE MONKS

Siam has been called the "Kingdom of the Yellow Robe," on account of the

presence everywhere of large numbers of monks, all of whom wear the

yellow robe. Every man in Siam enters a monastery at some time or other

in his life, and lives as a monk for a period varying from a few months

to many years, or even for the whole of his life. The usual age for

entering the priestly circle is about nineteen, and the shortest stay

that can be decently made is for two months. The person seeking

admission goes to the temple wearing his best clothes, and attended by a

crowd of friends and relatives, who take presents to the priests. The

presents include rice, fish, matches, fruit, cigars, betel-nut,

alarm-clocks, vases of flowers, incense sticks, and dozens of other

curious things. These are all distributed about the temple floor, till

the sacred building looks as though it were about to be the scene of a

glorified "jumble sale."

Occasionally children enter the temple service and wear the yellow robe.

It often happens that when one of a boy's parents is cremated he becomes

a "boy-monk," because by this means he hopes to help his father in that

other world to which he has been called. As a rule, too, each monk has a

boy servant, or disciple, who cleans out his cell, and does other work

of a lowly character for him. Monks may not possess silver money, but

these disciples may receive it and spend it for the benefit of their

masters.

In the early morning the big bell of the monastery calls the monk to

rise and go out to beg for his breakfast. He takes a big iron bowl in

his hands, holds it in front of him, and then with downcast head walks

slowly through the streets allotted to him. He may not wander into

another man's street, but must keep to his own. As he walks along, the

people come out of their houses and put food into the bowl. One puts in

a handful of rice, another a spoonful of curry. Someone else adds a few

bananas, or some stale fish, or some scraped coco-nut. The monk looks

neither to the right hand nor to the left, and gives no thanks to the

donor of the meal. By the time he gets back to the monastery it is no

exaggeration to say that his bowl often contains a very varied and weird

assortment of oddments. It looks rather "a mess," and there is not much

to be surprised at when we learn that some of the monks, who do not keep

the rules of their Order very strictly, throw all this motley assortment

of fish, flesh, fowl, and stale red-herrings to the dogs, afterwards

partaking of a rather more tempting breakfast that has been prepared for

them in the monastery. At certain times of the year only a few monks

from each monastery go in search of food. The others stay at home at the

temple. If a monk has rich relations, his disciple often receives for

him well-cooked and appetizing meals upon which to break his fast.

When breakfast is over, the brethren of the yellow robe go into the

temple for service, after which there is work for those who care to do

it. The majority do nothing, a form of employment which suits the

average Siamese a great deal better than work. As the monks are drawn

from all classes of society, there are always amongst them some who can

repair the buildings or help in building boats, or even, perhaps, teach

in the school.

At noon another meal is eaten; after that there is neither tea nor

supper, so that the monks get nothing more to eat until the next

morning. They manage to stifle their natural hunger by drinking tea,

chewing betel-nut, and smoking tobacco.

Towards evening the priests bathe, either in the river or in some pond

in the temple grounds. As soon as it is dark they must confine

themselves within the monastery walls. Every evening at about half-past

six the bell rings to tell the monks that "locking-up" time has arrived.

The bells, which play so important a part as clocks in the temples, are

hung in a wooden framework, usually built in three stories. Strictly

speaking, it is not correct to say that the bells are rung. They are not

rung--they are beaten with a thick piece of wood. There are generally a

number of little boys playing about in the cool, shady grounds who are

only too willing at the proper time to scramble up the rickety wooden

ladders and hammer away on the bells with a lump of wood.

From July to October, when the heavy rains fall, the priests meet

together in the evening and chant prayers. The only light in the temple

is that of dim candles or smoky lamps, and the dull rays fall on the

kneeling yellow-robed figures below, or lose themselves in the blackness

of the lofty roofs above, while there rolls out into the evening air the

rich, mellow notes of the voices in prayer. The frogs in the pond croak

a sonorous bass, the crickets add their chirpy treble, and the

fire-flies flash on shrub and palm, all adding their share to the

evening service.

The cells in which the monks live are small whitewashed rooms, with

practically no furniture. There are a few mats, perhaps a bedstead--or,

failing that, a mattress on the floor--a few flowers, and an image of

the Buddha, the founder of their religion. In a little cupboard the monk

keeps a teapot and a few tiny cups, and he is always glad to give a

visitor as much tea as he can drink. Most likely he possesses a

chessboard and a set of chessmen, for most of the Siamese are fond of

this ancient game.

The prayers and chants are written with a hard, fine point of ivory or

iron upon long strips of palm-leaf. The strips are held together by a

string or a piece of tape passed through a series of holes. The bundle

is gilded round the edges and carefully preserved in a chest. These

"books" are written in a language which the common people do not

understand, and, in fact, only those monks who stay long enough in the

temple service to learn the language have any idea what the chants are

about that they so diligently repeat.

Amongst the few possessions which a monk may lawfully hold is a big fan

made of broad palm-leaves. This he is supposed to hold in front of his

face as he walks about, in order that he may keep his eyes from

beholding the things of the world. But as often as not, during the heat

of the day, he holds it over his head to shield him from the fierce rays

of the sun. And one can scarcely blame him, for he is not allowed to

wear a hat of any kind, and every bit of hair has been shaved off the

top of his head.

There is a chief priest to each monastery, whose business it is to see

that the temple services are properly conducted, and that the monks

behave themselves in a becoming manner. If one of the brethren does

anything wrong, and his superior hears about it, punishment is sure to

follow. For a very serious offence the guilty one is expelled from the

monastery and handed over to the police. Such a man gets the severest

punishment allowed by the law. But if the offence is only a mild one,

then the punishment is a light one. The sinner will perhaps be set to

draw water, to sweep the temple courtyard, or to perform some other

menial duty usually undertaken by the ordinary servants.

Some of the "sins" that the priest may not commit are very curious to

us, and many of them are, in fact, committed regularly without any

punishment following. For instance, it is a sin to sleep more than

twelve inches above the ground, to listen to music, to eat too much, to

sleep too long, to swing the arms when walking, to burn wood, to wink,

to slobber or make a noise when eating, to ride on an elephant, or to

whistle.

Peeps at Many Lands: Siam · 第 8 / 18 章