DUTCH SETTLEMENTS.
DUTCH SETTLEMENT OF RHIO--ISLAND OF BANCA--
BENCOOLEN--PADANG--CHINESE SLAVE-TRADE--NATIVE
TRIBES OF SUMATRA--PEPPER TRADE.
In September 1826, I visited China for the first time; but, having
recently paid that country a much more extended visit, I shall reserve
for a future chapter my observations upon Chinese affairs; and shall now
proceed to give an account of some of the smaller Dutch colonies or
settlements which I visited about this time.
About forty miles to the eastward of Singapore, on the island of Bintang
(Star), is Rhio, a small Dutch settlement, producing a large quantity of
gambia and some thirty thousand _peculs_ of black pepper per annum. The
bulk of the former article finds its way to Java, where it is
extensively used for dying purposes. Nearly all the pepper is sent to
Singapore in small trading-boats, and is bought up there for the London
and Calcutta markets. My visit to Rhio lasted only thirty-six hours,
during which time I was too busy to be able to look much about me; but
I have since frequently sailed past the town, and through the beautiful
strait of the same name, and can vouch for it, that the lovers of
picturesque scenery will find objects in abundance to attract their
attention. Shortly after entering Rhio straits from the southward, the
navigator is completely land-locked, and appears to be sailing in a
large lake, amid the richest possible scenery; nor can he discern the
slightest appearance of an outlet from this fairy scene, till he is
within half a mile of the west end of the island of Luborn, when, all at
once, the view opens at that part which leads him into the straits of
Singapore. Rhio has the character of being very healthy, and, from its
soil and position, might be rendered productive. It is governed by a
Dutch Resident, and protected by a small garrison and fleet. Of the
activity of this little fleet against the neighbouring pirates, I am
glad to be able to speak most favourably; and I am bound to add a word
in testimony to its Commander's hospitality and kindness to shipwrecked
British seamen, which have been frequently put to the test of late
years, and have on more than one occasion called forth from the
Singapore Chamber of Commerce a vote and letter of thanks.
Shortly after the establishment of Singapore, the Dutch Government
proclaimed Rhio a free port. This measure, fortunately for us, was
adopted rather too late in the day to do any injury to the trade of Sir
Stamford Raffles's pet settlement, or much good to its neighbour. It
must be somewhat galling to the good folk of Rhio, to see some hundreds
of vessels of all descriptions under the Dutch flag sail past their
harbour every year, bound for Singapore, where they transact business to
a large amount; favouring this port, probably, with a short visit on
their return, for the purpose of purchasing a few hundred _peculs_ of
gambia for the Java market.
On the north-east point of Bintang, is a dangerous reef, on which the
clipper-bark Sylph struck in 1835, and on which she lay for four months,
defying the fury of the north-east monsoon and the heavy rolling swell
from the Chinese Sea; thus proving beyond a doubt the great strength of
a teak-built ship. An English ship in the same circumstances would not
have held together a week; as was subsequently proved in the case of the
Heber.
Mintow (Muntok according to the Dutch) is the capital of the island of
Banca, so long celebrated for its tin-mines. This is a poor town, and
very unhealthy: it is situated on the west side of the island, and faces
the straits of Banca, having the low, swampy shore of Sumatra opposite.
When Banca was occupied in common with the other Dutch colonies by the
British, it proved fatal to nearly the whole of the garrison. The Banca
fever is, perhaps, one of the most dangerous diseases with which man is
afflicted: those who are fortunate enough to recover from it, are
subject for life to severe nervous attacks at the full and change of the
moon. I well remember two gentlemen in Batavia, who could scarcely lift
their hands to their heads at these periods, though twenty years had
elapsed since they had had this terrible fever. The Dutch troops still
continue to suffer severely from this cause; and to be sent to Banca
from Java, is looked upon as the hardest lot that can befall a soldier.
Its tin-mines continue to be very productive, and yield 60,000 _peculs_
of pure metal per annum. From this source, the Dutch authorities derive
a considerable revenue. They employ Chinese miners, to whom they pay six
dollars for every _pecul_ of tin delivered on the coast in a pure state,
which they sell readily in Java for sixteen dollars per _pecul_; thus
getting ten dollars clear profit, less about half a dollar per _pecul_,
which it costs to send the tin to Batavia for sale. As far as I know,
Banca yields nothing else; and the rice eaten by the Chinese miners, is
sent regularly from Java.
The rivers on this island are infested by very large alligators, which,
from the scarcity of food, become highly dangerous. Their hunger drives
them sometimes to attack boats, as they are rowed up the rivers; and
serious accidents occur from time to time in this way. I could tell one
or two marvellous tales about the ferocity and bold attacks of these
river-monsters, but refrain from doing so, lest they should lead the
incredulous reader of these rambling sketches to doubt my veracity. The
straits of Banca were at one time the resort of numerous Malay pirates:
the activity of the Dutch cruisers has, however, rendered their once
dangerous neighbourhood perfectly safe, so far as the attacks of these
marauders are concerned. I have sailed many times through the straits of
Sunda, Banca, Rhio, Dryan, Malacca, and Singapore, since 1823, and have
known some few European vessels and many native proas taken; but, in all
my voyages up and down, I never saw a boat or proa that I felt certain
was a pirate. I have, indeed, seen many very suspicious-looking craft
off Singin, and between that island and the north end of Banca; but, as
they never molested us, I am willing to let their characters pass free,
so far as I am concerned.
The once thriving settlement of Bencoolen, (or Fort Marlborough,) which
I visited at different times between 1828 and 1830, I found, even then,
to have declined very seriously from its former prosperity. Previously
to its transfer, in 1825, to the Dutch, great exertions were made to
render this settlement important for its exportation of spices of all
descriptions; and, so far as regards nutmegs, mace, and cloves, those
exertions were eminently successful. Planters and others, however, soon
found that, on the hauling down of the British flag, and the hoisting of
the Dutch, their prospects underwent a very material change, arising
from duties and other charges laid on the commerce of the place. Most of
the capitalists retired with the British establishment, of which,
indeed, they formed a part. A hard struggle was maintained by those
planters who remained behind, but without success; and the place is now
very little more than a station for a Dutch Assistant-Resident and a
small garrison.
Bencoolen harbour is a dangerous one, particularly during the prevalence
of the boisterous north-west monsoon, which blows with such violence on
this part of the west coast of Sumatra. Ships generally anchor close
under the lee of Rat Island and reef, where they find smooth water,
unless the weather is unusually severe. This anchorage is seven miles
from the wharf where merchandise is landed, and considerable risk is
occasionally incurred by the cargo boats in making good this short
distance. In very stormy weather, ships and boats also are compelled to
seek shelter in Pulo Bay; a vile, unhealthy place situated about twelve
miles south-east of Rat Island, and surrounded with a low, swampy,
agueish-looking country. The Siamese suffer severely in this harbour
from fever and ague, and ship-masters are glad to leave it as soon as
the weather moderates. In my time, there was a convenient covered wharf
at Bencoolen for landing goods, but not a vestige now remains: it was
originally built by the English, and the Dutch have not cared to
preserve or replace it. In the present wretched state of the settlement,
indeed, it is of trifling consequence, since little difficulty can be
found by the few merchants from Java who from time to time visit
Bencoolen, in landing the small quantities of goods they may have to
dispose of.
The climate of Bencoolen is the worst it has been my fortune to
encounter since I left Europe. The land wind that sets in about seven
P. M., is the most trying breeze I ever encountered. To sit in an open
verandah when it is blowing, is quite out of the question; at least with
impunity. I tried the experiment more than once, and never escaped
without a severe seizure of trembling something like ague, within less
than half an hour. The injurious effects of this land wind may be traced
to the swamps between the hills in the vicinity of the town, which,
unlike those of Singapore, are formed by fresh water, and are no better
than stagnant puddles. In passing over these, the wind becomes of course
charged with malaria, which it distributes in every house between it
and the sea; and woe betide the European who fails to keep out of its
way! Most places that I have visited, have a healthy, as well as an
unhealthy season. Bencoolen is an exception to this rule, being
unhealthy all the year through. Even vegetation suffers here from the
south-east monsoon; and a nutmeg-plantation exposed to its dry, parching
influence, has the appearance of a plantation of heather-brooms more
than of any thing else.[9] The natives do not appear to suffer from the
climate, but seem to be as healthy and long-lived as Asiatics generally.
Of the character of these natives, I can say little that is favourable.
They are indolent, proud, though poor, gamblers, vindictive, and far too
ready with the knife on little or no provocation; they are very fond of
dress, and not over scrupulous how they gratify this taste; for which
purpose I have known them have recourse to theft, lying, robbery, and
even murder. Had they one single spark of energy in their composition,
they might be a thriving and contented people, possessing as they do a
boundless extent of rich virgin soil, which they are too lazy to clear
and cultivate. The place is overrun with a race of petty Rajahs and
other nobles, who are a social pest, being poor, and yet too proud to
strain a nerve to support themselves and their families. Sir Stamford
Raffles succeeded in rousing the ambition of these men a little, by
giving some of them commissions in the local corps, which gratified
their taste for gay attire, and supplied them with a few hundred rupees
per month to keep up a little state. From my sweeping reproach of the
chiefs, I would except these _Radins_[10] with whom I have spent many
pleasant evenings, and who really possessed gentleman-like feelings and
tastes.
[Footnote 9: This remark applies to the side of the tree that
faces the south-east only. The north-west side is perfectly
healthy-looking and green, when its opposite is the very
picture of blight and decay.]
[Footnote 10: Radin, a noble next in rank, in the Malay world,
below a Rajah.]
The transfer of this settlement to the Dutch (in exchange for Malacca)
in 1825, was a severe blow and great disappointment to all the natives,
both high and low. At a meeting of chiefs held at the Government house,
at which the English and Dutch authorities were both present, for the
purpose of completing the transfer, the senior Rajah rose to address the
assembly, and spoke to the following effect:--"Against this transfer of
my country I protest. Who is there possessed of authority to hand me and
my countrymen, like so many cattle, over to the Dutch or to any other
power? If the English are tired of us, let them go away; but I deny
their right to hand us over to the Dutch. When the English first came
here, they asked for and got a piece of land to build warehouses and
dwelling-houses upon. That piece of land is still defined by its
original stone wall, and is all they (the English) ever got from us. We
were never conquered; and I now tell the English and Dutch gentlemen
here assembled, that, had I the power, as I have the will, I would
resist this transfer to the knife. I am, however, a poor man, have no
soldiers to cope with yours, and must submit. God's will be done." This
was a bold, straight-forward speech; but it was thrown away upon the
callous ears of the hearers. Delivered in pure Malay, it sounded
stronger than in this translation. The speaker was an old man, with
whose power and will for mischief, in former days, the British had good
cause to be acquainted.[11]
[Footnote 11: This chief will long be remembered in Bencoolen
for his reckless daring, when a desire of vengeance for any
insult, real or imaginary, stirred the devil within him. Many a
midnight murder was laid at his door, and with justice too, if
I am not very much mistaken. The last time I saw him, he was
very near his end, and spoke of his death as calmly and
tranquilly as if he had lived the purest life imaginable. He is
long since in his grave, and his family has sunk into
insignificance. I do not believe a more thorough villain ever
walked the earth.]
The country round Bencoolen is, with the exception of the
spice-plantations, covered with a thick forest. The soil is rich, and,
as I have said, might be turned to good account, by means of a small
portion of energy on the part of the natives. The forests abound with
the tiger and the elephant. The former finds plenty of game to feed on,
and, consequently, seldom molests man. It is not an unusual occurrence
for a single tiger to attack a herd of cattle when grazing in the
neighbourhood of their owner's grounds: singling out his intended
victim, he pursues it to the last, without, in general, attempting to
injure any of the rest As soon as the cattle see or smell the
approaching tiger, they become quite wild, and run at their full speed
towards their herdsman, whom they surround apparently for their own
protection, and continue in great commotion, though without attempting
to run, till their enemy is either driven away, or has succeeded in
capturing one of their number. The elephant is here of a large size, and
is occasionally caught in snares by the natives for the sake of his
tusks, which I have seen weighing one hundred and twenty pounds each.
This huge animal is not dangerous to man, unless his path is crossed,
when, particularly if a single male one, he becomes a formidable
neighbour. He is easily tamed; but the native here is too indolent to
trouble himself with the task. The only one I ever saw made use of, was
sent by the King of Acheen to Sir Stamford Raffles, and was, in my time,
the property of my friend, Mr. Robert Bogle. Strange stories are told
of the power, sagacity, and cunning of this monarch of the woods. Among
other feats, the natives say, it is not uncommon for one elephant to lie
down, and let another stand upon his back, in order that he may reach
higher up a cocoa-nut tree, and have a better chance of pushing it down.
I tell the tale as it was told to me, not caring to vouch for its truth.
Bencoolen is occasionally visited by the hill tribes from the mountains
in its neighbourhood: they come down in bands of ten, fifteen, or twenty
men, bringing with them gold-dust to barter for opium. As neither rice
nor cocoa-nuts grow in the elevated region inhabited by them, they
usually bring also a few bags of potatoes to exchange for those
luxuries. They are a hardy race of men, strongly built, of middle
stature, and have very thick black beards; a singular feature in an
inhabitant of this island. I am sorry to add, that they sometimes visit
the coast for other and less legitimate purposes than barter; and that
their kidnapping children to make slaves of, is no uncommon occurrence.
Several instances of this kind took place in 1829, within my certain
knowledge.
I have frequently heard it said, "Go where you will, you are sure to
find a rat and a Scotchman." My having visited Bencoolen enables me to
contradict this aphorism; for I there found abundance of rats, one
Englishman, and not a single Scot. I must confess, however, that this is
the only place in which I have ever found the Englishman without the
Scot.
Cock-fighting is carried on to a great extent here, and is indulged in
by the natives, high and low. On market-days, vast numbers of natives
may be seen wending their way to the cock-pit attached to each market or
bazaar, with one of the celebrated Malay game-cocks under their arms. At
the pit, some hundreds of these birds may be seen in the hands of the
fanciers, who weigh and examine them thoroughly before betting on them.
As soon as the bets are arranged, the two birds first on the list are
brought into the centre of the pit, and armed by their owners with a
fearful spur about four inches long, of the shape of a scythe, and as
sharp as a razor. The combat seldom lasts a minute, the first charge
generally rendering one, and frequently both the combatants
_hors-de-combat_, by inflicting on them mortal wounds. Then begins the
most disgusting part of the scene. The owner of each bird takes him up,
blows into his mouth and eyes, and uses every exertion to make the poor
tortured victim give the last peck to his adversary. Failing this last
peck, the battle is a drawn one. Bets are usually paid, particularly in
the country, in gold dust, which is weighed out in small ivory
steelyards kept for the purpose. The Dutch, with their usual policy,
derive a revenue from every cock-pit within their boundary here. For my
own part, I am not inclined to blame them, and think our revenue at all
the three Straits' settlements might be materially increased, and the
scamps of those places kept in better order, by having every
gambling-house in them registered and subjected to a tax. To put a stop
to gambling in any Asiatic town, is beyond the power of man; and the
attempt to do so, only drives the gamester to the secret haunts where he
may indulge his propensity, and where, I fear, too often he becomes a
witness of, if not a participator in deeds of blood. As a grand juror in
Singapore, I have had evidence enough of this.
From Bencoolen, I proceeded to Padang, another Dutch settlement, about
two hundred miles up the coast of Sumatra. Padang, as its name implies,
is situated in a plain, and is a very few feet above the level of the
sea; yet, it is a healthy place. It was once in possession of a
considerable trade, but this has diminished of late years, in most
articles, except coffee, of which I am told it now exports 60,000
_peculs_ per annum. The harbour or anchorage is about five miles from
the mouth of the small river on the banks of which the town stands, and
is a dangerous one in boisterous weather, having little or no protection
from the fury of the north-west monsoon. The trade from Java to this
part of Sumatra, consists principally of rice, salt, native clothing,
and a few supplies for the European and Chinese inhabitants of the
place: in return, it sends coffee and pepper. There is a disgraceful
traffic carried on between Padang and the island of Nias, a little
further up the coast, by Chinese, who visit that island, and purchase
hundreds of its inhabitants, for whom they find markets all along the
coast. Those brought to Padang, are not, indeed, sold as slaves; but
they are registered at the Resident's office, and held as bond-debtors
for different terms of seven, fifteen, and even twenty years: during
this servitude, they are treated as slaves, but are free at its
expiration; they have also the option of buying their liberty in the
meantime, if they can raise the means; and the proprietor is not at
liberty to refuse a sum equivalent to the value of the unexpired term of
service. This value is fixed thus: on the registering of a debtor, a
certain sum is put down as his value or debt; say 400 rupees; of this
sum, a certain proportion, say 20 rupees, is placed to his credit for
every year he serves; so that, if he serves his master for five years,
his debt is reduced to three hundred rupees; and this sum, the master is
compelled to accept as the price of his liberation. If a debtor has a
hard master, he is at liberty to induce another to buy his services; and
the transfer cannot be declined, if the sum due is forthcoming. These
Nias people are, men and women, a much fairer race than Malays, and
speak a language of their own. Many of the men become expert carpenters,
bricklayers, blacksmiths, &c., which enables them to earn money and
purchase their freedom; and for such skilled artisans, the master can
demand no more as the price of their freedom than the balance due upon
their services. I have seen boat-loads of these poor creatures landed at
Padang, consisting of old men, women, boys, girls, and mere infants,
looking wretched enough, and marched off to the police-office to be
registered and sold. This is a black spot in the Dutch administration of
affairs in Sumatra.
The proceedings of the Dutch on the coast of Sumatra, are a sore subject
to the Singaporeans, as having interfered with their trade with the
north-west coast of the island. By means of the extension of the Dutch
posts from Padang into the interior, they compel the native to carry his
coffee thither, instead of taking it, as formerly, down the Siak river,
and thence to Singapore. This accounts, in a great degree, for the
increase in the export of that berry from Padang, from thirty to sixty
thousand _peculs_ per annum, between the year 1828 and 1838.
Padang is very subject to frequent earthquakes, being surrounded with
volcanic mountains. To look at its houses, one would think that a single
shock would level the whole town. The best of them consist of a frame
of wood, each post standing on a single stone, which is simply laid on
the ground, not let into it; the vacancies between the posts and the
cross-pieces of framework, are filled up with lath and plaster; and the
roof is almost invariably of thatch. They resemble huge stools resting
upon stones, to keep the legs from sinking into the earth, and look as
if the first breeze would upset them. An earthquake shakes them, and
makes them vibrate, but seldom or ever injures them; whereas a brick and
mortar house, subjected to the same severe trial, would certainly give
way, unless it were of very substantial workmanship. I have experienced
several severe shocks of earthquakes, both here and at Bencoolen, and at
first felt very much disposed to quit the house; but custom reconciles
one to almost every thing, even to seeing your dwelling-house dancing,
or "Jumping _Jim Crow_."
Since the Dutch got possession of this part of Sumatra, they have almost
constantly been at war with a neighbouring tribe of natives, who, from
their fanatical zeal in the cause of the Mohammedan faith, have obtained
the name of _Padres_; and the war is called the _Padre_ war. These men
have occasioned the Government a vast deal of trouble, and cost it a
mint of money, as well as many valuable lives. When beaten in the field,
they suddenly disperse and retreat to their mountain fastnesses, where
they remain to strengthen themselves, and watch their opportunity to
make a fresh attack on the Dutch posts. In this manner they harass their
opponents, and occasionally inflict upon them a very severe blow. I
heard at Padang, that, when the country was ceded to the Dutch, in 1818,
these _Padres_ had said, they would never submit to their power; and
well have they kept their word.
Sumatra, were it under a European power, and peopled as well as Java is,
would soon rival that island. Its soil is, for the most part, equally
fertile, and yields coffee, pepper, nutmegs, &c. Only a small portion of
the territory is subject to the Dutch: the remainder is inhabited by
various tribes, who speak different languages, and mix but little
together. They are mostly an indolent people, and require driving by
their chiefs to make them work for a day or two now and then. The
comparatively small produce exported from this large and fertile island,
is obtained almost entirely by forced labour.
The pepper trade of the ports to the northward of Padang, has ceased to
be a profitable one, and is now neglected. European shipmasters used to
complain bitterly of the roguery practised upon them by the native
dealers; but who taught the native his roguish tricks? Who introduced
false weights? Who brought to the coast 56lb. weights with a screw in
the bottom, which opened for the insertion of from ten to fifteen pounds
of lead, _after their correctness had been tried by the native in
comparison with his own weights_? Who made it a regular rule, in their
transactions with the native dealer, to get 130 _catties_ of pepper to
the _pecul_, thus cheating him of thirty per cent, of his property? I
challenge contradiction, when I assert, that English and American
shipmasters have for thirty years been addicted to all these dishonest
practices. The cunning and deceit of the native traders, at the pepper
ports of Sumatra, have been taught them by their Christian visiters, and
forced upon them in self-defence. An acquaintance of mine, who had made
some purchases from a native, went on shore next morning to receive the
goods. When the pepper was being weighed, he told the native clerk, he
was cheating. The man denied it, and told the party he lied. The
European raised his fist, and threatened to chastise the native, who
coolly put his hand on his ever-ready _kris_, and said, "Strike, sir."
The raised hand dropped to its owner's side, and well it was that it did
so; or the party would not have lived to tell the tale of his having
threatened the clerk of a Sumatra Rajah. A large portion of the pepper
used to be paid for in dollars; and it is a singular fact, that,
notwithstanding the number imported in this way, no one ever saw a
single dollar exported, or seems to know what becomes of them. It is
generally supposed, that the Rajahs buy them, and that they often die
without revealing where their treasure is deposited. Be this as it may,
it is very difficult, under any circumstances, to extract a dollar from
the chiefs of this coast.
The trader in this part of the world, works hard for whatever he may
earn, having to encounter much severe weather, and to go through a heavy
surf every time he lands. Indeed, so heavy and dangerous is the surf,
that few ships' boats are fit to go through it. The shipmaster generally
rows to the back of it in his own boat, and obtains one from the shore
to land in. Of this, the native does not fail to take advantage in the
event of any dispute, knowing that his customer cannot leave the shore
without a boat, to be had only through his influence; and it is no
uncommon thing for the European to be detained all night, and made to
settle accounts in the morning before going off. The coast of Sumatra,
from Acheen Head to Flat Point,(its two extremes in this direction,) is
a highly dangerous one, being iron-bound, with a heavy surf and many
reefs off it. I envy not the man who has to make his voyage here against
the north-west monsoon. The Dutch are extending their ports on the
sea-board from Padang northward, and will ere long reach Acheen Head;
when they will have a struggle, if the Acheenese people possess a
moderate portion of their ancient gallantry and hatred of
Europeans.[12]
[Footnote 12: Since my return home, I have seen an account of
the proceedings of two of Her Majesty's sloops on the coast of
Sumatra from Acheen eastward. Sir W. Parker, with his usual
promptitude, sent them there from Penang, to punish the
perpetrators of some acts of piracy lately committed on British
vessels. The service has been most effectually performed; and
the marauding native has been taught, that, distant as he may
be, punishment is the certain result of meddling with the flag
of England. The ships of war in and about the straits of
Malacca, would do much good to the commerce of their country by
an occasional visit to Acheen and the coast of Pedir. There is
nothing like the sight of a few eighteen-pounders for keeping
the domineering Malay Rajah in check.]