JAVA.
SAMARANG--A TIGER FIGHT--JAVA PONEYS--EXCURSION
TO SOLO--WILD SPORTS--DJOCKDJOCARTA--REMAINS OF
THE ANCIENT PALACE--IMPERIAL ELEPHANTS--EXPERIMENT
IN INDIGO-PLANTING--JAVANESE EXECUTION--A PET
BOA--ALLIGATORS--FOREST LABOUR--SLAVERY IN
JAVA--OPIUM-SMOKING--TEA--THE UPAS-TREE.
Between three and four hundred miles eastward of Batavia, on the north
coast of Java, is the small, neat, old-fashioned town of Samarang,
which, when I visited it in 1824, was the residence of several English
merchants: now, there is only a single one remaining, so completely has
monopoly destroyed mercantile enterprise! The harbour is a safe one in
the south-east monsoon, but the reverse when the north-west winds
prevail. It is, however, constantly visited by European shipping, which
take cargoes of coffee, sugar, rice, &c. &c., to all parts of Europe,
Australia, Singapore, and China.
The circumstance at this distance of time most clear and distinct in my
memory, in connection with my first visit to Samarang, is a
tiger-fight, which I will attempt to describe. The exhibition took place
on an extensive plain near the town, just after daybreak. A square of
men, armed with the native spear, was formed three deep, and one hundred
yards across. Inside this square was placed a box resembling in shape a
coffin, but much larger, containing a royal tiger fresh from his native
forests, which had been brought to town the day previously for this
express purpose. Imagine every thing ready, the square formed, the box
in its centre, and a silent multitude looking on,--some perched on
trees, some on the coach-boxes of the numerous carriages, others on
horseback, and thousands on foot; whilst the native chief of the
district, with his friends, and the European officials of the place,
occupied a gay pavilion, placed in an advantageous situation for viewing
the coming strife. A native Javan, in full dress, is now seen advancing
into the square, followed by two coolies or porters, one carrying a
bundle of straw, the other a lighted torch. The straw is thrown over the
box, and the torch-bearer stands ready to set fire to it at the end
where the tiger's head is, the box being too narrow to permit his
turning round in it. The leading native then lifts a sliding door at the
other extremity of the box, carefully covering the opening thus made
with mats, to prevent the light from penetrating, and inducing his royal
highness to back out too soon. This operation completed, the straw is
set on fire. The native and his two coolies now retire slowly, keeping
time to Javanese music as they make their way outside the square. By
this time, the fire has got fair hold of the box, filling it with smoke,
and the tiger begins his retreat, his berth becoming rather warm.
Presently, his hind quarters appear issuing through the sliding doorway,
its covering of mat readily yielding to the pressure: by degrees, his
hind feet gain firm footing outside, and his whole body is soon
displayed. On appearing, he seemed rather confused for a few seconds,
and, laying himself quietly down, looked all round upon his foes, and
gave a roar that made the welkin ring, and my young heart quake a
little. He then rose, deliberately shook himself, turned towards the
rising sun, set off first at a walk, then at a trot, which he gradually
increased to a smart canter, till within a few yards of the points of
the spears pointed at him; he then came to the charge, and made a spring
that surprised me, and, I fancy, every one present. I am afraid to say
how high he leaped, but he was on the _descent_ before a single spear
touched him. This leap was evidently made with the intention of getting
clear over the heads of the men and their spears too; and he most
certainly would have accomplished it, had he not leaped too soon, and
fallen within the square, the height of the spring being quite
sufficient for the purpose. As it was, when on the descent, the spears
of the six men nearest him being pointed at his breast, one of them
inflicted a frightful wound. On reaching the ground, the noble beast
struggled hard for his liberty; but, finding his efforts of no avail, he
ultimately started off at full gallop to the opposite side of the
square, where he renewed his exertions, though with less vigour than
that displayed on his first attempt, and with no better success. He then
galloped twice round the square, just at the point of the spears. Not a
man advanced to touch him, it being the rule, that the tiger must come
within the range of the spears before they can be used. He was
ultimately killed while making a third attempt to escape; and thus ended
the sport. His first charge was very brilliant and exciting; his second
much less so; his third and last was very feeble.
Immediately after the tiger's death, the same ceremonies were gone
through with a leopard, who took the spear-men rather by surprise, and,
instead of trying to leap over their heads, darted in under their
spears, got among their feet, and effected his retreat, to the no small
consternation of the surrounding multitude, who soon scattered in all
directions. He was, however, pursued by the men he had baffled, and was
killed under a bridge in the immediate neighbourhood.
Tigers are frequently pitted by the native chiefs of Java against
buffaloes, but I never was fortunate enough to witness one of those
conflicts. The buffalo is generally the conqueror, and is sure to be so,
if he succeeds in getting one fair butt at his adversary, whom he tosses
in the air, and butts again on his fall. Occasionally, the tiger
declines the combat altogether, when his tormentors rouse him by the
application of lighted torches to the tenderest parts of his body: but
even this extreme measure has been known to fail; in which case the
terrified animal is withdrawn, and another is put forward in his place.
These are cruel pastimes, though they may be thought not more so than
dog-fighting and cock-fighting, which were formerly so much practised in
Britain; and not so barbarous as a pugilistic combat between two hired
brutes called prize-fighters.
The society of Samarang is neither so extensive nor so attractive as
that of Batavia: it is, however, a pleasant and healthy place,
notwithstanding its proximity to an extensive swamp. Its safeguard
against the malaria we might naturally look for in this situation, is
the tide, which flows over the marsh twice a day, and keeps it sweet.
During the Java war, a small volunteer corps of cavalry was formed here,
the members of which, in their zeal, offered their services to join a
party who were proceeding to Damak, (a small village about forty miles
off,) to put down a body of armed rebels. Poor fellows! they went out in
high spirits, but trusted too much to their unbroken horses, which took
fright, and threw them into inextricable confusion on hearing the first
volley. The sad consequences of this rash though gallant day's work,
were, the death of seven young English gentlemen, all highly respected,
and sincerely regretted by their countrymen. They were all personal
friends of my own. I well remember the gloom which the intelligence cast
over the society at Batavia.
In and about Samarang may be collected any number of the beautiful Java
poneys, animals unsurpassed for symmetry in any part of the world.[3]
The work they perform is beyond belief. Ten miles an hour is the common
rate of travelling post: four of them are generally used for this
purpose, and the stages are from seven to nine miles, according to the
nature of the country. When within half-a-mile of the first house where
relays are kept, the native coachman cracks his long, unwieldy whip,
which can be heard at a great distance. At this signal, the grooms
harness the four poneys whose turn for work it is; and, by the time your
carriage halts under the shed that crosses the road at every post-house,
the fresh poneys are to be seen coming out of the stable, all ready for
the next stage. Your attention is then attracted by a man with a stout
bamboo, some eight feet long, in his hand, full of water, which he pours
over the naves of the wheels, to cool them. By this time, the tired
poneys are unhooked, the fresh ones put-to, and away rattles the
carriage again with its delighted passengers. I know nothing more
exciting and agreeable than a ramble amongst the mountains of this
favoured isle, under the direction of the post establishment.
[Footnote 3: The Java poney in Her Majesty's stable at Windsor,
is certainly no fair specimen, being the worst-favoured brute
under the sun.]
From Samarang, early in 1824, I posted with a friend to Solo and
Djockdjocarta, the ancient seats of the Emperors and Sultans of this
part of Java. They are now shorn of their splendour; but they still
possess novelty enough to attract a stranger. On our route, we visited
some beautiful coffee-plantations, and passed through the pretty and
romantic-looking village of Salatiga.[4] We had a splendid view of the
far-famed _Gunung Marapi_, or fire-mountain; and, on every side, we saw
evidence of the thriving condition of this magnificent part of Java.
At Solo, I was so fortunate as to be present at the then Emperor's
marriage; a scene which brought painfully to mind the fallen state of
the chiefs of this neighbourhood, by its being superintended by the
Dutch Resident at the Court. There were three days' feasting, royal
salutes from the imperial guard, Javanese music, and dancing girls in
great numbers; but I found the whole affair very fatiguing. Fallen as
was the Emperor's state at that time, it subsequently became much more
reduced, in consequence of his having been found guilty of being
secretly concerned in the late war or rebellion. He has long since
followed his friend and coadjutor, Diepo Nogoro. A tool of the Dutch
Government now reigns in his stead, who cannot even leave his house for
twenty-four hours without permission from the Resident at his Court.
[Footnote 4: A name derived from the Malay words, _sallah_, "a
fault or crime," and _tiga_, the numeral "three"; consequently
meaning the "third fault." How this pretty spot came by such a
name, I never heard.]
One day, I accompanied a party of friends to see the Emperor's tigers, a
number of which animals he generally had ready for exhibitions similar
to those already described. We found one very noble fellow confined in a
house some fifteen feet square, formed of the trunks of cocoa-nut trees,
placed about five inches apart. On looking through, we saw the tiger in
the position usually chosen by a dog when he wants to warm his face at
the fire. Hearing our approach, he stared us steadily in the face for
about a minute, and then made a spring at us, so suddenly that he came
with his whole force against the bars, before we had time to move a
step. The shock shook the building, as well as our nerves, not a little,
though we were of course scatheless.
At Solo, I first tasted the Javanese "Findhorn haddock," which is, in
fact, a trout caught in the beautiful Solo river. After being cleaned,
it is wrapped up in a bundle of rice-straw, which is forthwith set on
fire; and as soon as the straw is consumed, the fish is ready for
eating, and really resembles in flavour its celebrated name-sake.
In the neighbourhood of Solo, a bold sportsman may find game to his
liking, and willing natives to guide him in his search after tigers,
wild hogs, the huge boa, deer, snipe, and quail. In pursuit of the last,
too many a fever is caught, through the imprudence of young men in
staying out too late in the day, and in keeping on their wet and soiled
clothes and shoes during their ride or drive home. A little attention to
such apparent trifles would save many a valuable life. Deer and wild-hog
are generally pursued and shot by a party armed with rifles, who post
themselves along one side of a jungle, while a party of natives advance
from the opposite, driving the game before them with long poles and
shouting. Great care must be taken by the sportsman, on these occasions,
not to fire too soon: if he fires into the jungle, he runs the risk of
shooting one of the bush-beaters; if to the right or left, he may plant
his bullet in the breast of one of his companions. He must reserve his
fire till the game is fairly out of the bush, and in rear of the line of
rifles, when he may turn round and deliver his charge. I recollect a
fatal accident happening near Salatiga, through a gentleman's deviating
from the strict rule, never to change your position when once placed by
the leading sportsman. A party were out after hogs by moonlight, when
one gentleman, thinking he heard a noise as of an approaching porker on
his left, very imprudently got on his hands and knees to crawl round in
the hope of getting the first shot. The sportsman stationed next to him
got a glimpse of him on the path, and mistaking him in the uncertain
light for a hog or other wild animal, fired his rifle without a moment's
hesitation, and mortally wounded his unfortunate friend, who lived just
long enough to acknowledge his error, and to beg that no blame might be
attached to the individual who caused his death. Poor fellow! he paid
dearly for his imprudence.
Solo is protected by a small fort, which is always garrisoned by
European troops, the Government not choosing to trust native soldiers in
that part of the country. For this, no one can blame the Dutch; for the
chiefs require looking after, and are apt to give trouble. While the
Island was held by the British Government, a mutiny broke out at Solo
among the Bengal sepoys: on its suppression, it was found they had been
tampered with by these chiefs, and that numbers had been gained over to
their cause.
Nothing can exceed the hospitality of the Dutch inhabitants of this part
of Java: their houses are always open to the stranger, of whom they
think too much cannot be made. The Resident's establishment is a
splendid one, and to his liberality and hospitality I can testify from
personal experience. Indeed, our countrymen, in many parts that I could
name, might, with great advantage to themselves and to travellers in
their districts, take lessons from their Dutch brethren in office.
From Solo, I went to Djockdjocarta, distant forty miles, in a gig. A
kind friend having placed relays of horses on the road for me, I
performed the journey with perfect ease, without the aid of a whip, in
four hours. The poney I had the last stage, was the best little animal
in harness I ever sat behind: he literally flew along the road. At one
point, I came to a bridge, which, as I could see at some distance, had
been broken, so as to render it impassable. While meditating how I was
to get across the river, not knowing there was a ford in the
neighbourhood, my poney, which had come the road in the morning to meet
me, settled the question, by suddenly darting off, through a gap in the
hedge at the road-side, down the river bank, at the top of his speed,
and, before I could collect my scattered senses, was across the stream
and up the opposite bank, to my no small surprise and pleasure. He was a
noble little animal, of a mouse colour; and was originally purchased
from a native dealer for twenty-eight guilders (about 2l. 6s. 8d.).
At Djockdjocarta are to be seen many ancient residences of the Javanese
Chiefs; amongst others, the celebrated _Cratan_ or palace, the taking of
which, in 1812, cost General Gillespie a hard struggle. It is surrounded
with a high wall, which encloses an area of exactly one square mile:
outside the wall runs a deep, broad ditch. The place could offer but a
feeble resistance against artillery, in which arm Gillespie was
deficient when he attacked and took it. Another curious building is that
in which the Sultans, in days of yore, used to keep their ladies: it is
composed entirely of long narrow passages, with numerous small rooms on
each side; each of which, in the days of their master's glory, was the
residence, according to tradition, of a beautiful favourite. To prevent
the escape of the ladies, or the intrusion of any gallants, the whole
pile is surrounded with a canal, which used to be filled with
alligators: the only entrance was by a subterranean passage beneath this
canal, and which ran under it for its whole length. When I visited the
place in 1824, the canal, passage, &c. were all in good order, though
the latter was getting damp from neglect;--a proof that the masons and
plasterers of Java, in old times, must have been very superior workmen.
Djockdjocarta was the birth-place of Diepo Nogoro, and the scene of his
earliest warlike movements against the Dutch. So unexpected and sudden
was his first attack, that he caught the garrison napping, and had them
within his grasp before they knew he was in the field.
In the _Cratan_, the Sultan had, in 1824, three noble elephants, each
kept under a separate shed. I went, with three other visitors, to see
those animals; and we passed sometime amusing ourselves by giving them
fruit and other dainties. We did not remark, however, that one of our
friends had been for sometime teasing one of them, by offering him a
plantain, and constantly withdrawing it just as the poor animal was
laying hold of it with his trunk. We had not gone twenty yards from the
spot, when the elephant's keeper approached, and gave him a couple of
cocoa-nuts, (minus the husk, but with the shells,)--part of his daily
food, I presume. The elephant took one of these, and, with a wicked look
at the gentleman who had been teasing him, threw the nut at him with
great force. Fortunately he missed his aim. The nut struck a post within
six inches of the teaser's head, and was literally smashed: had it
struck where doubtless it was meant to do, it would certainly have
proved as fatal as an eighteen-pound shot. So much for teasing
elephants. We beat a speedy retreat, not choosing to risk a second shot.
Djockdjocarta can hardly be called a town; yet it is more than a
village. The houses of the European inhabitants are much scattered, and
many of them occupy very pretty situations. The climate is delicious;
and exercise on horseback may be taken with impunity from six to nine
A. M., and from three to seven P. M. It is not uncommon to see Europeans
riding about during the intervening hours; but this is generally avoided
by old residents.
A successful attempt was made here, by a countryman of mine, in 1823, to
grow indigo. The quantity produced was limited, but the quality was
excellent; and, but for some vexatious regulations of the Government
regarding the residence of foreigners in this part of Java, which drove
the spirited individual alluded to from the neighbourhood, I have no
doubt he would speedily have realized a handsome fortune. Since that
period, indigo-planting has been carried on in various parts of Java to
a large extent. The quantity produced annually is now about one million
and a half of pounds; and the quality is such as to command the first
prices in the continental markets. Indeed, the Bengal planters are
becoming quite jealous of those of Java.
Shortly before my arrival at Djockdjocarta, a daring house-robbery, by
a band of Javanese, took place in the neighbourhood. Six of the robbers
were afterwards caught, tried, convicted, condemned, and executed _à la
Javan_ on the scene of their crime: they were tied hands and feet to
separate stakes, and _krissed_ by a native executioner, who performed
his dreadful office so scientifically that his victims died without a
groan. The cool indifference with which five of the unfortunates
witnessed the execution of the first sufferer, and successively received
the _kriss_ in their own bosoms, was quite surprising, and shewed with
what stoical composure the Mohammedan fatalist can meet a violent death.
The forests of Java are inhabited by the rhinoceros, tiger, black tiger,
leopard, tiger-cat, boa-constrictor, and a variety of animals of milder
natures. The elephant is not found in its wild state in these woods,
though numerous in those of the neighbouring island. I am not aware of
any other animal that may be called dangerous to man in these unrivalled
forests; nor is there much to be apprehended from occasionally coming in
contact with either of those above-named, though accidents happen now
and then. I have known a carriage and four attacked on the main road
between Batavia and Samarang, by a tiger, and one of the poneys killed
by the fierce onset. This, however, is a rare occurrence, and can happen
only when the tiger is hard pressed for food; which is seldom the case
in the woods of Java, overrun as they are with deer, wild-hog, and other
royal game. The boa is harmless to man, unless his path is crossed, when
a speedy retreat is advisable. A friend of mine in Samarang once kept
one of these monsters as a pet, and used to let him crawl all over the
garden: it measured exactly nineteen feet. It was regularly fed twice a
month, viz. on the 1st and the 15th. On the first day of the month, a
moderate-sized goat was put into his house. The poor animal would
scream, and exhibit every symptom of extreme terror, but was not kept
long in suspense; for the snake, after eyeing his victim keenly, would
spring on it with the rapidity of thought, coil three turns round the
body, and in an instant every bone in the goat's skin was broken. The
next process was, to stretch the carcass to as great a length as he
could before uncoiling himself; then to lick it all over; and he
commenced his feast by succeeding, after some severe exertion, in
getting the goat's head within his mouth. In the course of twenty
minutes, the whole animal was swallowed: the snake would then lie down,
and remain perfectly dormant for three or four days. His lunch (as I may
call it) on the fifteenth of the month, used to consist of a duck. This
snake was given, in 1815, to Lord Amherst, on his return from China, and
reached the Cape in safety: there it was over-fed to gratify the
curious visitors, and died in consequence before the ship reached St.
Helena.
While on the subject of wild animals, I may mention a leopard that was
kept by an English officer in Samarang, during our occupation of the
Dutch colonies. This animal had its liberty, and used to run all over
the house after its master. One morning, after breakfast, the officer
was sitting smoking his hookah, with a book in his right-hand, and the
hookah-snake in his left, when he felt a slight pain in the left hand,
and, on attempting to raise it, was checked by a low angry growl from
his pet leopard: on looking down, he saw the animal had been licking the
back of his hand, and had by degrees drawn a little blood. The leopard
would not suffer the removal of the hand, but continued licking it with
great apparent relish, which did not much please his master; who, with
great presence of mind, without attempting again to disturb the pet in
his proceeding, called to his servant to bring him a pistol, with which
he shot the animal dead on the spot. Such pets as snakes nineteen feet
long and full-grown leopards are not to be trifled with. The largest
snake I ever saw was twenty-five feet long, and eight inches in
diameter. I have _heard_ of sixty-feet snakes, but cannot vouch for the
truth of the tale.
In my enumeration of animals dangerous to man, I omitted the alligator,
which infests every river and muddy creek in Java, and grows to a very
large size. At the mouth of the Batavia river, they are very numerous
and dangerous, particularly to Europeans. It strikes one as
extraordinary, to see the copper-coloured natives bathing in the river
within view of a large alligator: they never seem to give the animal a
thought, or to anticipate injury from his proximity. Yet, were a
European to enter the water by the side of the natives, his minutes in
this world would be few. I recollect an instance that occurred on the
occasion of a party of troops embarking at Batavia for the eastward,
during the Java war. The men had all gone off, with the exception of
three sergeants, who were to follow in the ship's jolly-boat, which was
waiting for them at the wharf: two of them stepped into the boat; but
the third, in following, missed his footing, and fell with his leg in
the water, and his body over the gunwale of the boat. In less than an
instant, an alligator darted from under the wharf, and seized the
unfortunate man by the leg, while his companions in the boat laid hold
of his shoulders. The poor fellow called out to his friends, "Pull; hold
on; don't let go"; but their utmost exertions were unavailing. The
alligator proved the strongest, and carried off his prize. The scene was
described to me by a bystander, who said, he could trace the monster's
course all the way down the river with his victim in his immense mouth.
The inhabitants of Java are, generally speaking, a quiet, tractable
race, but rather lazy withal. The Dutch Government could never have made
the Island produce half the quantity it now yields of either sugar,
coffee, or rice, without a little wholesome coercion;--coercion that
seemed somewhat tyrannical at first, but which has ultimately pleased
all parties concerned, and done wonders for Java. If my memory serves
me, it was in the time of Governor Vandenborch that this system of
coercion commenced. The inhabitants of the villages, in various parts of
the Island, were compelled by an armed force, when milder means had
failed, to turn out at day-light, and labour in the fields planted
either by Government itself or by Government contractors, which
naturally caused a great deal of discontent; but, as the labourers were
regularly paid in cash for their day's work every evening, they very
soon became reconciled to a system that not only provided amply for
their families, but gave them the means of indulging in their favourite
pastime, gambling. To this vice, all classes are passionately addicted;
and nothing is more common than to see a gang of coolies sit down in the
middle of the road, and gamble for hours on the few pieces they may have
just earned for having carried a heavy burthen a couple of miles. The
inhabitants of the districts in which the coercion I speak of has been
put in force, are now better satisfied with their rulers than ever they
were before.
The extent to which the growth of coffee and sugar has been carried, has
rather checked that of rice, which has been twenty-five per cent. dearer
the last fifteen years, than during the preceding twenty: it is,
however, still cheap enough as an article of food, though the price is
too high to compete, in the China or Singapore markets, with the produce
of Lombok, Bally, Siam, or Cochin China.[5]
[Footnote 5: By the last overland papers from Singapore (Sept.
1845), I observe, the Dutch Government has been importing rice
from Pondicherry to Java;--a proceeding quite unprecedented in
my time, and to be accounted for only by the extent to which
the cultivation of sugar, indigo, and coffee is carried, in
order to satisfy the constant demands on the colonies of the
Netherlands for money. To this cause may be added, however, the
occurrence of one or two dry seasons;--a rare phenomenon within
the tropics, and attributable, probably, in some degree, to the
vast extent of country recently cleared of forest and jungle to
make way for the plough. No policy can be so blind as that
which compels the poor Javanese to eat imported rice, while
living in a country capable of yielding food for all Europe.]
Slavery still exists in Java, and every Dutch family has its domestic
slaves. The law forbids the importation of fresh ones, and provides for
the good treatment of those now in bondage. It also prohibits the
slave-owner from separating a family; so that the wife and husband
cannot be parted from each other, or from their children, except in the
case of a crime having been committed by a member of the family. In that
case, the guilty party is, on application to the chief magistrate, put
up to auction, and sold to the highest bidder. This, however, is a rare
occurrence, though I have witnessed such sales. The slaves, knowing well
the consequence of an act of dishonesty, are cautious how they venture
to trespass on the rights of _meum_ and _tuum_. I may safely say, I have
never, in all my wanderings, seen a race of people better treated than
the slaves of Java: they are well fed and well clothed; and adults of
both sexes receive a monthly allowance of two guilders (3s. 4d.) under
the name of pocket-money. This sum may seem small; but, when we take
into consideration, that a free man can be hired for eight guilders per
month in Batavia, and for six in the country, on which sum he has to
feed and clothe himself and his wife and children, it will be
sufficiently evident that the slave's allowance is ample, his master
feeding and clothing him and his family. I object _in toto_ to slavery
in any form; but I confess I do not think the slaves of Java would be
benefitted, were their liberty given them to-morrow.
The natives of Java are by no means free from that prevalent Eastern
vice, or luxury, opium-smoking; and the Dutch Government derives an
immense revenue from the article. I have, in various parts of the
Eastern world, seen the evil effects of opium-smoking; but am decidedly
of opinion, that those arising from gin-drinking in England, and from
whisky-drinking in Ireland and Scotland, far exceed them. Let any
unprejudiced European walk through the native towns of Java, Singapore,
or China, and see if he can find a single drunken native. What he will
meet with are, numbers of drunken English, Scotch, and Irish seamen,
literally rolling in the gutters, intoxicated, not from opium, but from
rum and other spirits sent all the way from England for the purpose of
enabling her worthy sons to exhibit themselves to Chinese and other
nations in this disgraceful light. That spirit-drinking at home is no
excuse for opium-smoking abroad, I admit; but I would recommend the
well-intentioned persons who have of late been raising such an outcry on
the subject of opium, to begin at home, and attempt to reform their own
countrymen: they may then come to China with a clear conscience, and
preach reform to the poor opium-smoker.
Among other improvements in Java, its rulers have lately turned their
attention to the cultivation of tea, and with considerable success so
far as regards the quality, I have no means of ascertaining the quantity
of tea at present produced yearly; but have no doubt it will, before
long, become an important article of export from the Island.
Before quitting Java, I must say a word about the far-famed upas-tree.
Such a tree certainly exists on the island; but the tales that are told
of its poisoning the air for hundreds of yards round, so that birds dare
not approach it, that vegetation is destroyed beneath its branches, and
that man cannot come near it with impunity, are perfectly ridiculous. To
prove their absurdity, a friend of mine climbed up a upas-tree, and
passed two hours in its branches, where he took his lunch and smoked a
cigar. The tree, however, does contain poison, and the natives extract
the sap, with which they rub their spear and _kriss_ blades: wounds
inflicted with blades thus anointed, are mortal. Such I believe to be
the origin of the many fabulous stories that have passed from hand to
hand, and from generation to generation, about the upas-tree of Java.