"And there on reef we come to grief,
Which has often occurred to _we_."
IN WHICH WE ATTEMPT AN OVERLAND ROUTE, WITH THE
RESULT OF THE TRIAL.
Hail, all hail, to the glad new year! What though there be no crisp
seasonable snow, no exhilarating frost, no cosy chimney nooks, or no
ladies muffs and comfortable ulsters? Let us joy at his birth all the
same, for does he not mark another year nearer the end?--of the
commission I mean.
And now to work. At the annual inspection of our heavy guns it was found
that three at least were so defective in the bore that it was necessary
to condemn them, and replace them by new ones. This entailed a terrible
amount of labour on our men. Hatchways had to be torn to pieces, and
yards rigged with most ponderous blocks, and purchases for the safe
transhipment of these iron playthings. Whatever may be urged against,
there is this to be said in favour of such heavy and unusual evolutions,
that observant men gain largely in practical experience and an extended
acquaintance with the "might be's" of their profession. Fortunately, in
one sense, but few commissions afford such unwelcome opportunities as
ours, for it has been one of accidental, rather than of meditated
experiment.
In the midst of dismal rainy weather the business of refitting had to be
pushed forward, previous to our going in dock; then coaling and
painting--in our ship separate work--and provisioning, swallowed up the
greater part of the month of January.
February 11th.--To-day the "Tyne" arrived from England. To the
expatiated seaman the arrival of a troopship has a greater interest than
have ordinary arrivals; for has she not scarce two months since,
perhaps, looked on the very scenes we so long to behold? She is thus a
link between us and home. Then there is also the additional interest of
seeing fresh faces, whilst to the more fortunate who are about to leave
us she is the absorbing topic. She remained only eight days. On the
occasion of her departure we were allowed to cheer--a wonderful
concession; at the same time we were given clearly to understand that we
were to accept it in the light of a great privilege; and that there
should be no mistake on this point, the commander conducted the
arrangements with the order "Three cheers for H.M.S. 'Tyne,' homeward
bound;" "And no extras," added somebody in parenthesis.
* * * * *
And now came April 15th, not so rapidly as would appear from the above
sketch; but it came, and with it the commencement of a second voyage to
the northward.
In the interval between the sailing of the "Tyne" and our departure we
were not idle. We had gone outside twice--once at target practice and
once on steam tactics. The "Armide," French flag-ship, had left for
Europe, and her relief, the "Thémis," had arrived on the station, losing
several sheets of copper off her starboard bow on the passage up from
Singapore.
It is curious to observe the different customs of foreign sailors when
sailing, homeward bound. The French, for instance, rig up a dummy man
and trice him up to the main top, where he is made to oscillate with a
pendulum movement until he gains sufficient impetus to clear the side,
when he is let go overboard amidst the cheering of the men. The Russians
man yards, white caps in hand, which, after waving in the air to make
their cheering more energetic, they fling into the sea.
But to return to April 15th.--We had but cleared Hong Kong when we
sighted the "Charybdis," with the long pennant flying. Fortunate
fellows! how long, I wonder, before we shall be similarly decorated? I
write this almost three years afterwards, and still the question remains
unanswered.
On the way we put in to White Dogs, in expectation of finding the
"Vigilant" with our mail. The mails latterly have been very erratic in
their arrivals, due to a change in the postal system at home. Henceforth
there is to be no penny mail--a fact which, seemingly, our friends have
not yet grasped; hence it is no uncommon thing to go weeks without
letters, and then suddenly to find oneself inundated with--say six or
eight _billets doux_.
The "Vigilant" was only a few hours behind us; and after giving us our
mail she left for Foo-chow, with the admiral and captain on board.
That night we rode out a very stiff gale. The seas were so heavy that
all ports had to be barred in, and even then, such was the violence of
the storm that water was occasionally shipped through the upper battery
ports. From the manner in which the cable "surged" and bumbed, it was
deemed expedient to let go a second anchor, and to get up steam; for in
the event of the wind chopping around--nothing more likely--we should be
on a dead lee shore, and our only alternative to slip and go to sea.
Still the gale increased, and still the one anchor and cable held. How
the wind did howl and screech through our cordage! This lasted for over
two days. On the third day the "Moorhen" came down from Foo-chow with
our captain; and as there was still a big lump of a sea on, she capered
about in the lively manner peculiar to gun vessels.
April 21st.--We rounded the Shun-tung promontory in a thick fog, groped
our way towards Chefoo in the same hazy atmosphere, and picked up our
anchorage in nearly the same spot as last year, glad enough to get in
anywhere out of such dangerous weather.
The cutter's crew of the "Pegasus," a day or two after our arrival,
reminded us of a challenge they had previously thrown out, to pull any
boat of similar size in our ship for forty-five dollars. Accordingly,
one fine afternoon when the sea was as smooth as a pond, and on the
occasion of a dance given by our officers, the contest came off.
Contrary to the expectations of most, our boat beat almost without an
effort. That same evening the "Lily's," with more pluck than discretion,
tossed their oars under our bows. Well, like a great good-tempered
Newfoundland dog, we can stand a deal of snapping at from insignificant
puppies, but when at length their attacks begin to get acrimonious, we
rise, and shake our shaggy coat; and in salt water language "_go_" for
the torments. Thus we "_went_" for the "Lily's," beat them, and pocketed
thirty-six dollars more.
On the arrival of the admiral a court-martial was held on a marine, of
the "Mosquito," for insubordination. I mention this because of the
extreme sentence of the court--twenty-five lashes with the "cat." The
admiral, though, came to the rescue, and with mercy seasoned justice,
for he refused to sign the warrant for the punishment.
We left Chefoo for Japan, calling in at the Golo islands--a group about
90 miles from Nagasaki--on the way. 'Twas a lovely spot, and recent
rains had made nature look all the fairer for her ablutions. The gentle
breeze wafted off such a delightful fragrance of pine, fir, hay, and
flowers, so welcome after China's reeking smells. Slowly, and with
caution, we wended our way up an intricate channel, meandering amongst
the hills in a most striking and artistic manner, until further progress
was barred, by the shores of a tiny bay, with a town at its head. We
found ourselves so perfectly land-locked that everybody was wondering
how we got in. Around us high volcanic hills, and under us,--not a
volcano--but, between twenty and thirty fathoms of water. We could not
anchor here, that was evident, so we set the spanker, slued about, and
made tracks as rapidly as we could before the darkness should set in.
Next morning we were at Nagasaki.
Early on the morning of the 29th of May we sailed for the eastward, by
way of the Inland Seas. We turned slightly out of our course to call at
Yobuko, a real bit of Japan, lovely and enchanting. We were objects of
absorbing interest to the simple islanders. They wore very primitive and
airy garments, some even none at all. They are not much like, in fact
very unlike, a community of Japanese; for cleanliness amongst them is an
"unknown quantity;" and their dwellings remind me very forcibly of the
squalid dens in Chinese native towns. The people, though, were
hospitable and kind to a degree, and highly glad to see us, offering us
of their little saké and tea--nor would they take money, or accept any
payment, though we pressed it upon them. At first they were shy,
following us about in curious, respectful, distant crowds; but seeing we
treated their chubby little children kindly they soon made friends with
us.
We reached Kobé in due course where nothing of moment took place, if we
except a gale of wind which compelled our liberty-men--_much against
their will_, of course--to remain on shore all night. "Well '_'tis_ an
ill wind that blows _nobody_ good,' is it not?"
July 2nd.--We are at Yokohama, and are a-taut; for to-day some members
of the Japanese imperial family are to visit us. At noon they arrived
amidst salvoes of artillery from the shore and from the Japanese
men-of-war. The party consisted of prince Arisugawa's father and sister,
her maids of honor, and two admirals. The princess was of course the
"lion"--excuse the gender--of the party. But how lost, how utterly
bewildered, she looked in reaching our quarter-deck! like little Alice
in wonderland. I hear it is the first time she has ever been afloat.
Her style of dress is different to anything we have yet seen in this
country. A red silk skirt clothed her lower limbs, whilst a transparent
gauzy purple tunic, figured with the imperial emblem, fell from her
shoulders to the ground. But her hair was what drew most of our
attention, for it was the most remarkable piece of head architecture
possible. How shall I describe it? Imagine a frying-pan inverted, its
inner rim resting on the crown of the head, and the handle depending
down the back, and you will have a correct, though a homely idea, of the
fashion of her hair. Each individual hair seemed as if picked out from
it fellows, stiffened by some process until it appeared like a wire bent
into shape; gathered in and tied a little below the nape of the neck,
and from thence downward traced into a queue. Hers was the ideal type of
Japanese feature, so rarely seen amongst the common people, and
considered so unlovely by Europeans. A long face, narrow straight nose,
almond eyes, very obliquely set in the head, and a mouth so tiny, so
thin the upper lip, that it looks more like a scarlet button than any
thing designed for kissing.
She was childishly pleased at everything she saw whilst accompanying the
admiral around the decks, twitching at his arm incessantly that she
might indulge her curiosity as to hatchways, stoke-hole gratings, and so
on; clapping her hands continually in the exuberance of her joy.
The "Modeste" accompanied us in our trip to the north on this occasion.
A few days out we called in at Kamaishi, in the neighbourhood of which
are the imperial copper mines and smelting works. The people here lack
the rosiness and freshness of face of the Japanese, and have a dowdy,
sickly look, due, I suppose, to the unhealthy exhalations from the
copper.
Instead of calling in at Hakodadi we continued on along the eastern
coast of Yezo until we reached Endermo harbour, sentinelled at its
entrance by a grim vomiting volcano which, in addition to its charred
and fire-scored crater, has innumerable other little outlets in its
sides, giving out jets of steam and sulphurous smoke until the very air
is loaded with the oppressive vapour.
At the anchorage we saw the "Pegasus."
Here we are then! in the country of Miss Bird's Aïnos, a people whom she
describes as the most gentle and docile in the world. We had ample
opportunity of making their acquaintance, for during our stay the decks
were daily thronged with them. In these men the advocates of Darwinism
might well behold the missing link. From head to heel they are covered
with thick shaggy unkempt masses of hair; that on their heads and faces
hanging down in wild elfish locks. They wear but scant raiment, a sort
of over-all, which does not pretend to the use of even the most
primitive covering. It is of the men I speak. Strangely enough, though,
they all have their ears pierced, metal ornaments are not worn by any,
but, instead, they have a thin strip of scarlet cloth, just simply
placed through the hole. The women are strange looking creatures. Their
garments are modest enough, far more so even than those of their
southern sisters with whom, by the way, they have nothing in common,
save their sex. Can it be that this is the primitive Japanese
race--that the more enlightened people of Niphon trace their origin to
such a degraded source? I should be inclined to say no, if I did not
remember that history furnishes us with so many parallel cases of
similar degraded origin--our own for example.
Well built, but oh! so ugly these women; and, as if nature had not done
enough for them in this particular, they render their faces still more
repulsive looking by tattooing the lips on the outside to the depth of
an inch all around, elongating the mark at the corners. This, of course,
does not tend to lessen the apparent size of an aperture, already
suggestive of a main hatchway. This unhandsome, open, flat countenance,
is also further decorated with bands of blue on the forehead. The
females wear large rings of iron--some few of silver--in their ears.
Now, though of course I don't pretend to the faithfulness of
portraiture, nor to the accuracy of observation of the travelled lady I
have before quoted, yet I must add that my estimate of this people, in
my own small way, is antagonistic to hers. To me they are only a very
little removed from savages. Their women seem to be in abject slavery to
the men, and are treated by them in the most shameful manner. An
instance, which came under my own observation, will perhaps shew this.
Whilst on shore fishing, I had wandered away from the main party to
where I saw a native engaged at work on an upturned canoe. Up the beach
was his hut--I have seen many a stye a king to it--and in the doorway
his--wife must I call her? Curious I suppose like all her sex she came
down the strand to get a look at the white-skinned, light-haired
stranger, and was rewarded for temerity in a most summary manner. The
man, at first, seemed to expostulate with her, and so far as I could
judge, ordered her back to her domicile; but as the lady did not seem
prompt to obey the mandate, he further emphasised his meaning and
accelerated her movements by flinging a billet of wood at her with all
the irresponsible and unrestrained force of a savage nature. In the face
of this can I agree with Miss Bird? My first feeling was one of
indignation and an angry twitching of my ten digits to form themselves
into bunches of fives, but on second thoughts, seeing that the poor
woman took the chastisement as a matter of course, and that she was
seemingly used to such like gentle reminders, my indignation cooled down
to matter of fact surprise.
This place is the exile home of one of the banished daïmios I spoke of
in a former chapter.
From Endermo we retraced ours steps to Hakodadi, where, during a short
stay, we had some amusement in the shape of messes pulling for bags of
"spuds" (the potatoe of the non-sailor world) and other comestibles.
July 30th.--The date of the most important event of the commission.
Referring to my "journal" I find recorded below this date that word of
terrible import, "stranded." Yea, truly are we. And this is how it all
came about. We had sailed from Hakodadi with a fair wind, through the
strait of Sangar and out into the sea of Japan, shaped our course for
Aniwa bay, in Sagalien, with--except that the atmosphere was rather
hazy--every prospect of a fair and quick passage.
Off the south western corner of Yezo, and about ninety miles from
Hakodadi, lies the small island of O'Kosiri, in the track of vessels
going north. By morning we had reached its neighbourhood--it could be
seen in fact--when suddenly a thick fog enveloped it, us, and the
surrounding sea. We were to have gone outside the island, though the
inner passage is navigable, still, to avoid any possibility of an
accident, it was deemed best to go to seaward of it. At 4 a.m., whilst
steaming at six knots, the look out man reported land dead ahead. The
officer of the watch, seemingly pretty confident as to his whereabouts,
altered course a point or so, and kept on at the same speed. An hour
passed, the fog had settled thicker than ever. At ten minutes past two
bells in the morning, without any warning--the lead even shewing deep
soundings--a crashing, grating sound was heard, accompanied by a
distinct trembling vibration, proceeding, apparently, from under the
ship's bottom. Even then, no one dreamed we were ashore; such a sound,
such a sensation, might have been produced by running over a junk. At
this moment the leadsman got a throw of the lead, and "_a quarter less
four_," indicated only too plainly the origin of the sounds.
With his usual promptness--as if running ashore was a matter of ordinary
evolution--our captain at once gave orders for engines to be reversed,
for boats to be hoisted out, and anchors placed away, where they would
be of most use; at the same time directions were given to have the steam
launch coaled and provisioned to go back to Hakodadi for assistance. On
soundings being taken along the starboard side plenty of water was
obtained; it was only on her port bottom that the ship had grounded.
Efforts were made to roll her off, all hands rushing from one side of
the deck to the other, but without result. Through the crystal clear
water, and in the deep shadow of the ship, the nature of the bottom
could be clearly seen--coral rocks and yellow sand. Fortunately the sea
was a flat calm, or it must have fared ill indeed with us.
At ordinary times the sailor prefers plenty of sea room, and the further
he is from land the safer he feels; but when one's ship has suddenly
converted "_mare_" into "_terram_" with, may be, a hole in her to boot,
then indeed the proximity to some friendly shore is his first
consideration.
The lifting fog revealed to us our whereabouts; within a hundred yards
of us the surf washed edges of a reef, and before us the low shores and
high hills of O'Kosiri.
The unusual sight of a large ship so near their island soon brought the
natives off in their queer canoes. By means of our interpreter we learn
that the people had never seen a man-of-war before; that there was no
rise and fall of tide there; and much more about the ways and means
available for opening up communications with Hakodadi.
Meanwhile shot and shell were got out and sent on shore, and coals
pitched overboard, because no lighters were obtainable at this stage in
the proceedings. The divers having gone down reported the ship aground
in three distinct places, aft, amidships under the batteries, and
forward. Thus ended the first day. With the morrow a swell set in from
seaward, which caused us to bump heavily, though it did not alter our
position. On this day the expected assistance arrived from Hakodadi.
Close on each other's heels the following ships bore down upon us:--the
"Modeste," with lighters in tow, the "Kerguelen," "Champlain," and
"Thémis," Frenchmen, the latter the admiral's ship; and the Russian
corvette "Naezdnik," with the admiral's flag at the mizen.
These five ships at once anchored in the best positions consistent with
their own safety to help us; the "Kerguelen" a little on our starboard
quarter, and the "Champlain" right astern with our steel hawsers on
board and two anchors down.
With the second night came a chapter of accidents.
At sunset a rolling sea again set in, heavier than that of the morning.
The swell and the weight of our hawsers acting on the necessarily short
cables of the "Champlain" caused that vessel to drag and take the ground
on our port quarter. In her attempts to extricate herself, our steel
hawser got foul of her propeller and wound itself around it in such a
confused mass, that the vessel's machinery became practically useless.
Thus, side by side, the two companions in distress kept the watches of
that night. But this was not all; the "Modeste" coming to the rescue of
the "Champlain," ran into the "Kerguelen," but fortunately without any
serious result.
Sunday, August 1st.--At daylight the "Modeste" succeeded in towing the
"Champlain" out of her perilous position. As she did so a large piece of
the Frenchman's false keel floated to the surface, whilst she was found
to be making two and a half tons of water per hour. A turn of her
propeller the other way caused the now useless hawser to fall off. When
recovered by the divers, this mass of steel wire was a gordian knot of
utter confusion.
The swell of last night, though it did our ship and the "Champlain" some
harm, rendered us at least one service, by causing a higher influx of
water than usual, which resulted in lifting us off our pinnacled and
dangerous resting place into deep soundings again. And now it was
discovered that we too were taking in water in one of our compartments
which, however, thanks to our double bottom system, we were enabled to
confine to the one space.
As we passed slowly by the anchored ships, cheer after cheer rent the
still air, whilst the bands played our national anthem. An analysis of
the sounds of this multitudinous chorus of men's voices, was a very
interesting, though not a difficult matter. The sweet cadence of the
Frenchmen's low cheer was clearly a distinct sound from the Russian's
ursine growl; whilst the Englishmen's "hip, hip, hurrah!" if not so
musical as the first, nor as bearish as the second, was a more honest
sound than either.
On the following evening, after having bundled all our stores on board,
we put back to Hakodadi for coal and to allow the admiral to turn over
to the "Modeste."
August 6th.--Off for Hong Kong by the Japan sea passage, touching at
Nagasaki for coal, and hence on to Amoy against a south-west monsoon,
and into the scorching heat of the southern summer. A few hours at Amoy
sufficed us to take in enough coal for the short distance to Hong Kong,
where we had the satisfaction of finding ourselves, without mishap, on
August 18th. Almost immediately the hands were sent on board the "Victor
Emmanuel," whilst the ship was undergoing repairs at Aberdeen.
Whilst resting on the chocks in the dock the extent of the damage
sustained by us was plainly visible; and, when we come to consider, that
fourteen plates had to be removed and replaced by new ones, and this too
in the immediate neighbourhood of the keel, the wonder is that Chinamen
accomplished the cumbrous work satisfactorily.
September 20th.--Exactly one month ago to-day the ship was
docked--to-day she came out; what do you think of that for expedition?
On floating it was found that a slight damage to the Kingston valve had
been overlooked, and as the ship was still making water, it was thought
a second docking would be necessary. Fortunately our very effective
diving staff were able to repair it without the bother and additional
expense of being shored up again.
September 22nd.--A fed-letter day. Why? Oh, only because--"tell it not
in Gath"--the captain "_spliced the main brace_!" Yea, yea, verily! The
fact was, his ship had been got ready for sea in _two days_; hence the
_splicing_.
September 23rd.--We were to have gone to sea to-day, but "_l'homme
proposé_." Rumours of an approaching atmospheric disturbance had been
telegraphed from Manilla, within the previous forty-eight hours. Other
usual and confirmatory indications were also observed; the presence of
an unusual number of jelly-fish in the harbour till the sea stank with
them; the lurid appearance of the sunset sky, as if the heavens were
bathed in blood; the arrival of hundreds of junks from seaward seeking
shelter: all these signs summed up were considered satisfactory reasons
for preparing for a typhoon--than which, I suppose, no wind is more
violent and destructive. It is said that persons who have never
witnessed the sublime and terrible spectacle can scarcely realize, even
from the most graphic descriptions of eye witnesses, what a typhoon
really means. A Chinaman informed me that the last typhoon destroyed not
less than 18,000 persons in this neighbourhood alone--not a large number
when we bear in mind the enormous floating populations in Chinese towns.
All the day the air was ominous of a coming something. At noon I asked a
Chinaman when it might be expected. His answer shewed me how even this
mighty destroyer is guided by a far mightier hand--"Suppose he no' com
now, he com by'm by, nine clock." Well, "he" did not come now; but at 9
p.m.--and almost simultaneous with the firing of the gun--it came on to
blow; but, mercifully, not a typhoon, only the spent violence of one.
Even this necessitated the letting go a second anchor and the steaming
head on to it, for upwards of five hours.
With the morning the gale had considerably abated, and as the barometer
was on the rise, and the captain impatient to clear out, we put to sea.
But clearly the weather was in a very unsettled state, and outside Amoy
the glass again went down with a rising head sea. That we might put into
Amoy for shelter, all the furnaces were called into requisition; so we
lashed into and almost buried ourselves in seas rearing themselves up
a-head of us like walls of solid glass. We brought up in the outer
harbour just as the shades of night and the roar of the coming storm
gathered around us. That night the wind and sea played fast and furious
with our ship; again we had escaped a typhoon--it was subsequently
ascertained that one did actually visit the adjacent coasts and sea;
but, as this wind travels in a circle of many miles diameter, with its
greatest force distributed near its circumference, its centre only
passed over Amoy. On steaming seaward the next morning desolation,
destruction, and wreck were everywhere manifest.
In due course we reached Nagasaki. In the bay was the Russian iron-clad,
"Minin," a ship--if all we hear about her be true--capable of blowing
the "Iron Duke" sky-high. She is, however, inferior to us in many
desirable qualities, particularly in the essential one of being able to
keep the sea, and fight her guns in all weathers. The "Comus," one of
our handsome steel corvettes, was also here.
The hard steaming from Nagasaki, against exceptionally heavy winds, had
pretty well cleared us out of coal, and, as there was not enough in
store here to supply us with, we were ordered off to Kobé to fill up.
On our return, and just as we had cleared the strait of Simonoseki, we
fell in with what sailors term nasty weather. The ship behaved so
saucily that a seaman, Alexander Mann, whilst engaged lashing the anchor
was washed completely overboard and borne away astern. Daniel Mutch, the
captain of his top--a petty-officer who has already been instrumental in
saving life at sea--observing the accident, at once rushed aft to the
stern, plunged boldly into the turbulent waves and succeeded in rescuing
his topmate. It is satisfactory to be able to state that the captain
recognised Mutch's bravery by applying for the Humane Society's Medal,
which honorable decoration was received shortly afterwards.
Next day an event of a similar nature, but unfortunately with a sadder
termination, took place. In setting the starboard stunsail, John Irish,
A.B., lost his hold of the scarping on the starboard fore-and-aft
bridge, through the wood treacherously giving away with his weight, and,
being unable to swim, the poor fellow soon sank exhausted, just as
Joseph Summers had arrived on the spot. Irish had but lately come into a
legacy from some of his friends at home.
Early in December we left Nagasaki for Hong Kong, touching at the Rugged
Isles, on the opposite Chinese coast, on the passage. We spent about as
uncomfortable a week in this delicious retreat as can be well conceived;
our appetites sharpened to a keen edge by a north China winter--a week
never to be forgotten. Opportunely the admiral came in at the expiration
of time and terminated our miseries by ordering us to proceed.
December 20th.--To-day, and on the two subsequent days, the "one gun
salute" at eight bells from the "Victor Emanuel" announced that
somebody's fate was to be sealed. Three of our officers--the captain,
staff-commander, and Lieutenant Clarke--are to be tried on a charge,
preferred by the admiral, of negligently stranding Her Majesty's Ship
"Iron Duke." Much interest naturally centred around this trial; the
reporters from the local papers exerting themselves to the utmost for
information on such an engrossing topic. On the third day the sentence
of the court was announced:--the captain and Mr. Clarke to be
reprimanded, and the staff-commander to be severely so.
December 25th.--To fulfil a promise of twelve months' standing, from
the 20th to the 25th discipline was relaxed that we might prepare for
our one festival; and as the admiral had again rendered us pecuniary
help, and as this would be his last Christmas with us we were determined
on making it a success. Meanwhile, whilst the decorations are pushing
ahead, I must pause to notice the naval regatta of the 23rd, and
especially the race which came about between our cutter and a similar
boat of the "Lily," which it will be remembered we beat at Chefoo
recently; but so confident were the "Lily's" that our victory on that
occasion was the result of a "fluke," that they challenged us again to
pull for sixty dollars. The race was conclusive to the "Lily's," and
they handed over the "Mexicans" with the best grace a small ship's
company can be supposed to exhibit--on the eve of Christmas, too.
An interesting feature in the regatta, and one which caused no end of
fun, was the get-up of the copper punts. These naval abortions are, for
the nonce, handed over to the funny fellows on board, who proceed to
elect a "captain," and appoint themselves to the various offices
connected with the proper management of their craft. With great rapidity
and no little skill these punts are metamorphosed into brigs,
full-rigged ships, paddle-wheeled steamers, and ram-bowed ironclads. The
"captain's" get-up is the most gorgeous and elaborate thing possible--a
profusion of gold lace, a monster cocked hat suitable for the top of the
great pyramid, and a tremendous speaking trumpet whose bore would do
very well for a tunnel. His crew generally attire themselves in the
fantastic dress of niggers. Just as the proceedings for the day were
about to begin, a pigmy paddler was observed bearing down on the
flag-ship--her puffing funnel and foaming bows betraying no mean steam
power. On closing she was made out to be one of the punt fleet come to
pay a visit to the admiral. As she lay to she ran the St. George's Cross
up to the main, and saluted it with seventeen guns (wooden ones), out of
compliment to Admiral Coote, who shortly receives his promotion. She
next asked permission (by signal) to part company, a request the admiral
answered by hoisting the affirmative. It was indeed real fun.
By the 24th our lower deck looked a veritable fairy bower, but
essentially English--a character which the arrival of the "Thèmis," on
Christmas eve, modified somewhat. With characteristic good feeling and
with, perhaps, a spice of national vanity, we determined on asking the
Frenchmen to dine with us on the morrow--first, because having just come
in from sea they would be unable to prepare for themselves; and,
secondly, that we might shew them how Englishmen observe Christmas day.
Our invitation asked that three hundred men might be allowed to come,
but half that number only could be spared.
It now became necessary to make our surroundings as international as
possible, and as, happily, the French flag does not demand any very
great skill in its formation, we soon had the tri-color stuck up
everywhere; whilst in the most conspicuous positions French mottoes
shewed out from the greenery. The wording of these latter was a
tremendous effort, so limited was our knowledge of our nearest
neighbour's tongue. Just to quote a few:--surrounding every pudding a
scroll with "Bien venue 'Thèmis'" painted on it; in the mess shelves,
"Vive la France;" whilst, occupying a commanding place, the following
long yarn--"Servons nous votre reine mais honneur à la republique
français," shone out in great gilt letters. Then, too, there were plenty
of legends in English; and noticing these, one would be surprised at the
wit, no less than at the talent, exhibited in their execution. For
example, here is a sailor depicted with a most lugubrious and
"I-wish-I-might-get-it" expression on his rather florid face, looking
into an empty grog-tub; and that there may be no ambiguity about the
matter, the word _empty_ is printed on the tub, and attached to his
mouth a balloon-shaped sack containing the following visible
speech--"Three years on the 'Alert' but no 'Discovery.'" A second tar is
represented holding a stranded rope up to his captain, whilst he naîvely
remarks, "It wants splicing, sir." There were also several mottoes
specially designed as compliments to the admiral.
At noon on Christmas day we awaited on the quarter deck the arrival of
our guests, who, as soon as they came inboard were ushered below and
placed in the posts of honor at the tables. After the admiral, captain,
and officers had made the round of the decks, preceded by the band
playing the immortal strains of "The roast beef of Old England," the
shrill whistles piped "fall-to."
And now might have been witnessed a laughable scene, men rushing and
hurrying about here, there, and everywhere, exclaiming "Have you seen
our Frenchmen?" or "I've lost a Frenchman," and so on. But at length the
lost were found, and were, ere long, contemplating the formidable heap
of indigestible stuff set before them.
Such mountains of pudding, goose, ham, mutton, beef, and pickles--all
packed on one plate--I suppose it rarely falls to the lot of the more
polished Frenchman to behold. Well might they look aghast at the miracle
required of them. It is the proverbial hospitality of the Englishman,
enacted over again, which always imagines its guest starving.
Considering that not one word of the other's language was understood on
either side, a very kindly feeling sprang up between us during the
afternoon, and the time of departure arrived all too soon. After the
tea, which was to all intents and purposes a repetition of the mid-day
meal, the Frenchmen's boats came alongside, the crews invited inboard
and loaded with the dèbris of the feast. When at length they left us,
the Frenchmen all stood up in their boats, whilst we lined our bridges
and spar deck, and a succession of deafening cheers brought the happy
day to a close--cheers which most of the ships in port took up as the
boats passed their bows. So ended Christmas, 1880.