THE FINDING OF THE NEW ELAND
During the early part of last year (1906) I revisited the scene of my
former labours and adventures on a shooting trip. Unfortunately the
train by which I travelled up from Mombasa reached Tsavo at midnight,
but all the same I got out and prowled about as long as time would
permit, half wondering every moment if the ghosts of the two man-eaters
would spring at me out of the bushes. I wanted very much to spend a day
or two in the old place, but my companions were anxious to push on as
quickly as possible to better hunting-grounds. I took the trouble,
however, to wake them out of their peaceful slumbers in order to point
out to them, by the pale moonlight, the strength and beauty of the
Tsavo bridge; but I fear this delicate little attention was scarcely
appreciated as it deserved. Naturally I could not expect them, or
anyone else, to view the bridge quite from my point of view; I looked
on it as a child of mine, brought up through stress and danger and
troubles of all kinds, but the ordinary traveller of course knows
nothing of this and doubtless thinks it only a very commonplace and
insignificant structure indeed.
We spent a few days at Nairobi, now a flourishing town of some 6,000
inhabitants, supplied with every modern comfort and luxury, including a
well laid-out race course; and after a short trip to Lake Victoria
Nyanza and Uganda, we made our way back to the Eldama Ravine, which
lies some twenty miles north of Landiani Station in the province of
Naivasha. Here we started in earnest on our big game expedition, which
I am glad to say proved to be a most delightful and interesting one in
every way. The country was lovely, and the climate cool and bracing. We
all got a fair amount of sport, our bag including rhino, hippo,
waterbuck, reedbuck, hartebeeste, wildebeeste, ostrich, impala, oryx,
roan antelope, etc.; but for the present I must confine myself to a
short account of how I was lucky enough to shoot a specimen of an
entirely new race of eland.
Our party of five, including one lady who rode and shot equally
straight, left the Eldama Ravine on January 22, and trekked off in an
easterly direction across the Laikipia Plateau. As the trail which we
were to take was very little known and almost impossible to follow
without a guide, Mr. Foaker, the District Officer at the Ravine, very
kindly procured us a reliable man--a young Uashin Gishu Masai named
Uliagurma. But as he could not speak a word of Swahili, we had also to
engage an interpreter, an excellent, cheery fellow of the same tribe
named Landaalu; and he in his turn possessed a kinsman who insisted on
coming too, although he was no earthly use to us. Our route took us
through the Solai Swamp, over the Multilo and Subu Ko Lultian ranges,
and across many unexpected rivers and streamlets. On our first march I
noticed that Uliagurma, our kirongozi (guide), was suffering extremely,
though uncomplainingly, from earache, so I told him to come to me when
we got to camp and I would see what I could do for him. Strange to say,
my doctoring proved most successful, and Uliagurma was so grateful that
he spread my fame as a "medicine-man" far and wide among the natives
wherever we trekked. The consequence was that men, women and children
in every state of disease and crippledom came and besieged our camps,
begging for some of the magical dawa (medicine). I used to do what I
could, and only hope I did not injure many of them; but it was
heartrending to see some of the quite hopeless cases I was expected to
cure.
After we had climbed the Subu Ko Lultian and got a footing on the
plateau, we pitched our camp on the banks of the Angarua river, where
we found a big Masai kraal, the inhabitants of which seemed much
astonished at our sudden appearance in their neighbourhood. They were
very friendly, however, and visited our camp in swarms an hour or so
after our arrival. Riding my pony and accompanied by Landaalu as
interpreter, and my gun-bearer Juma, I returned their call in the
afternoon, when the elmorani (warriors) gave for my entertainment an
exhibition of the gymnastic exercises which they practise regularly in
order more particularly to strengthen their legs and render them
supple. After the performance I asked if there was any game about and
was told that some might be found a few miles to the north of the
kraal; so I set out at once with Landaalu and Juma to try my luck. It
was a perfect afternoon, and no sooner had I cleared the belt of scrub
which grew round the kraal, when by the aid of my glasses I saw a herd
of zebra and other game away in the distance, feeding peacefully on the
rolling prairie. I made my way steadily towards them, and noticed as I
went that a couple of eland were gradually drawing away from the rest
of the herd. I marked these for my own, and carefully noting the
direction they were taking, I dismounted and made a detour round a rise
so as to lie in wait for them and cut them off. My plan succeeded
admirably, for the two fine animals continued to come straight towards
me without suspicion, feeding quietly by the way. When they got to
within eighty yards or so, I picked out the bigger head and was only
waiting for him to make a slight turn before pulling the trigger, when
bang went the heavy rifle of one of my companions about half a mile
away. In an instant the two eland had bounded off, and I decided not to
risk a shot, in the hope that they would soon settle down again and
give me another chance.
Mentally blessing my friend for firing at this untimely moment, I
watched them make for a belt of wood about a mile further on, hoping
against hope that they would remain on the near side of it. No such
luck, however, for they plunged into it and were quickly swallowed up
out of my sight. Running to my pony, which Landaalu had dexterously
brought up, I galloped in the direction of the spot in the trees where
the eland had disappeared; but imagine my vexation when I found that I
had to pull up sharp on the edge of a nasty-looking swamp, which at
first sight appeared too boggy and treacherous to attempt to cross. I
rode up and down it without being able to find anything like a really
safe crossing place, so in desperation I at last determined to take the
risk of crossing it along an old rhino path where the reeds were
flattened down. My pony floundered bravely through, and eventually
succeeded in getting safely to the other side. I then made my way
cautiously through the belt of trees, and was relieved to find that it
was only half a mile or so broad. I dismounted as I neared the further
side, and, tying my pony to a tree, crept quietly forward, expecting to
see the eland not far off; but to my disappointment there was no trace
of game of any kind on the whole wide stretch of country that met my
view. I therefore tried another direction, and, taking a half turn to
my left, made my way carefully through some open glades to the top of a
little rise not far off.
The sight that now met my eyes fairly took my breath away; for there,
not three hundred yards off and stalking placidly along at a slow walk,
was a herd of fully a hundred eland of all ages and sizes. The rear of
the column was brought up by a magnificent old bull, and my heart
jumped for joy as I watched him from the shelter of the bushes behind
which I lay concealed. The next thing to be done was to decide on a
plan of attack, and this had to be thought of without loss of time, for
the wind was blowing from me almost in the direction of the eland, who
would certainly scent me very soon if I did not get away. Quickly
noting the direction in which they were moving, I saw that if all went
well they ought to pass close to a little hillock about a mile or so
off; and if I were very sharp about it, I thought I could make a
circuit through the wood and be on this rise, in a good position for
both wind and cover, before the herd could reach it. Accordingly I
crept away with the object of finding my mount, but to my delight--just
behind me and well hidden--stood the undefeated Landaalu, who in some
mysterious way had followed me up, found the pony where I had left it
tied to a tree, and brought it on to me. With a bright grin on his face
he thrust the reins into my hand, and I was up and galloping off in an
instant.
I soon discovered that I had further to go than I expected, for I was
forced to make a big detour in order to keep out of sight of the herd;
but on halting once or twice and peeping through the trees I saw that
all was going well and that they were still calmly moving on in the
right direction. The last quarter of a mile had to be negotiated in the
open, but I found that by lying flat down on my pony's back I was
completely hidden from the advancing herd by an intervening swell in
the ground. In this manner I managed to get unobserved to the lee of my
hillock, where I dismounted, threw the reins over a stump, and crawled
stealthily but as quickly as I could to the top. I was in great doubt
as to whether I should be in time or not, but on peering, hatless, over
the crest, I was overjoyed to find the whole herd just below me. One of
the eland, not twenty yards off, saw me at once, and stood still to
gaze at me in astonishment. It was a female, however, so I took no
notice of her, but looked round to see if my great bull were anywhere
near. Yes, there he was; he had passed the spot where I lay, but was
not more than forty yards off, moving in the same leisurely fashion as
when I first saw him. An instant later, he noticed the general alarm
caused by my appearance, and stopped and turned half round to see what
was the matter. This gave me my opportunity, so I fired, aiming behind
the shoulder. The way in which he jumped and kicked on feeling the lead
told me I had hit him hard, and I got two more bullets into him from
the magazine of my .303 before he managed to gain the shelter of a
neighbouring thicket and was lost to sight. In the meantime the whole
herd had thundered off at full gallop, disappearing in a few minutes in
a cloud of dust.
I was confident that there would be little difficulty in finding the
wounded eland, and on Landaalu coming up--which, by the way, he did
almost immediately, for he was a wonderful goer--we started to make a
rough search through the thicket. Owing to the growing darkness,
however, we met with no success, so I decided to return to camp, which
was many miles away, and to resume the quest at daybreak the following
morning. It turned out that we were even further from home than I
thought, and black night came upon us before we had covered a quarter
of the distance. Fortunately the invaluable Landaalu had discovered a
good crossing over the swamp, so we were able to press on at a good
pace without losing any time in overcoming the obstacle. After an hour
or so of hard travelling, we were delighted to see a rocket go up,
fired by my friends to guide us on our way. Such a sight is wonderfully
cheering when one is far away from camp, trudging along in the inky
darkness and none too certain of one's direction; and a rocket
equipment should invariably be carried by the traveller in the wilds.
Several more were sent up before we got anywhere near camp, and I
remarked to Landaalu that we must have gone a very long way after the
eland. "Long way," he replied; "why, Master, we have been to Baringo!"
This lake as a matter of fact was fully fifty miles away. When finally
we arrived I fired the ardour of my companions by relating the
adventures of the afternoon and telling them of the wonderful herd I
had seen; and it was at once agreed that we should stay where we were
for a day or two in the hope of good sport being obtained.
As soon as it was daylight the next morning I sent out a party of our
porters with full instructions where to find my eland, which I was sure
must be lying somewhere in the thicket close to the hill from where I
had shot him; and very shortly afterwards we ourselves made a start.
After a couple of hours' travelling we were lucky enough to catch sight
of a portion of the herd of eland, when we dismounted and stalked them
carefully through the long grass. All of a sudden one popped up its
head unexpectedly about fifty yards away. One of my companions
immediately levelled his rifle at it, but from where I was I could see
better than he that the head was a poor one, and so called out to him
not to fire. The warning came too late, however, for at that moment he
pulled the trigger. It was rather a difficult shot, too, as the body of
the animal could not be seen very well owing to the height of the
grass; still, as the head instantly disappeared we hoped for the best
and ran up to the place, but no trace of the eland could be found.
Accordingly we pushed on again and after a little rested for a short
time under the shade of some trees. We had gone about three miles after
resuming our search for game, when one of the porters remembered that
he had left the water-bottle he was carrying at the trees where we had
halted, so he was sent back for it with strict injunctions to make
haste and to rejoin us as quickly as possible. Curiously enough, this
trifling incident proved quite providential; for the porter (whose name
was Sabaki), after recovering the water-bottle, found himself unable to
trace us through the jungle and accordingly struck home for camp. On
his way back he actually stumbled over the dead body of the eland which
I had shot the previous day and which the search party I had sent out
in the morning had failed to find. They were still looking for it close
at hand, however, so Sabaki hailed them and they at once set to work to
skin and cut up the animal, and then carried it to the camp.
Meanwhile, of course, we knew nothing of all this, and continued our
hunt for game. Shortly after noon we had a light lunch, and while we
were eating it our guides, Uliagurma and Landaalu, discovered a bees'
nest in a fallen tree and proceeded to try to extract the honey, of
which the Masai are very fond. This interference was naturally strongly
resented by the bees, and soon the semi-naked youths ran flying past us
with the angry swarm in full pursuit. I laughed heartily at Landaalu,
and chaffed him unmercifully for allowing himself, a Masai, to be put
to flight by a few bees. This the jolly fellow took very
good-humouredly, saying that if he only had a jacket like mine he would
soon go and get the honey. I gave him my jacket at once, and a most
comical figure he cut in it, as it was very short and he had
practically nothing else on. When the nest was properly examined,
however, it was found that the bees had eaten all the honey; so after
taking some photographs of our guides at work among the bees we all
proceeded homewards, reaching camp about dusk, with nothing to show for
our long day's hunt.
We were met by Sabaki, who was in a great state of excitement, and who
started to explain in very bad Swahili how he had come across the dead
eland. Misunderstanding what he said, I told my friend that Sabaki had
found the eland which he had shot in the morning, and rejoiced heartily
with him at this piece of good luck. On viewing the head, however, we
could not understand it, as it was very much bigger than the one he had
fired at; and it was not till later in the evening when I visited
Landaalu, curled up at the camp fire, that the mystery was explained.
He greeted me by saying that after all we had not gone to Baringo for
nothing the previous day, and on my asking him what he meant he told me
about the finding of the eland, taking, it for granted that I knew it
was mine. I quickly called up Sabaki and after some trouble got from
him the whole story of how he had found the body close to my little
hillock and near where my men were searching for it. So I broke the
truth gently to my friend, who at once acknowledged my claim and
congratulated me on my good fortune.
How great this good fortune was I did not know till long after; but
even then, when I came to examine the head and skin carefully, I found
that they both differed materially from those of any other eland that I
had ever seen. For one thing, there was no long tuft of hair on the
forehead, while from the lower corner of each eye ran an incomplete
white stripe similar to, though smaller than, those found in the giant
eland. The sides of the forehead were of a reddish colour, and on the
lower part of the face there was a much larger brown patch than is to
be seen on the ordinary eland. The striping on the body was very
slight, the chief markings being three lines across the withers. On my
return to England in April. I sent the head to Rowland Ward's to be set
up, and while there it was seen by Mr. R. Lydekker, F.R.S., of the
British Museum, the well-known naturalist and specialist in big game,
who wrote to tell me that it possessed great zoological interest, as
showing the existence of a hitherto unknown race of eland. Mr. Lydekker
also contributed the following notice describing the animal to The
Field of September 29, 1906:
"Considerable interest attaches to the head of an eland, killed by
Colonel J.H. Patterson in Portuguese[1] East Africa, and set up by Mr.
Rowland Ward, on account of certain peculiarities in colouring and
markings, which indicate a transition from the ordinary South African
animal in the direction of the giant eland (Taurotragus derbianus) of
the Bahr-el-Ghazal district and West Africa. In the striped variety
(Taurotragus oryx livingstonianus) of the ordinary South African eland,
the whole middle line of the face of the adult bull is uniformly dark,
or even blackish-brown, with a tuft of long bushy hair on the forehead,
and no white stripe from the lower angle of the eye. On the other hand,
in the Sudani form of the giant eland (T. derbianus gigas), as
represented by a bull figured by Mr. Rothschild in Novitates Zoologicae
for 1905, the upper part of the face has the hair rufous and shorter
than in the ordinary eland, while from the lower angle of each eye a
white stripe runs inwards and downwards, recalling the white chevron of
the kudu, although the two stripes do not meet in the middle line.
"In Colonel Patterson's eland (which may well be designated T. oryx
pattersonianus) there is an incomplete white chevron similar to,
although rather smaller than, the one found in the giant eland, while
only a narrow stripe in the middle line of the face, above and between
the eyes, is dark-brown, the sides of the forehead being rufous. On the
lower part of the face there is a larger dark-brown area than in the
ordinary eland, although there is a rufous fawn-coloured patch on each
side above the nostril. In both the latter respects Colonel Patterson's
specimen recalls the giant eland, although it apparently lacks the dark
white-bordered band on the side of the neck, characteristic of the
latter. If all the elands from that part of Portuguese East Africa
where Colonel Patterson's specimen was obtained turn out to be of the
same type, there will be a strong presumption that the true and the
giant eland, like the various local forms of giraffe and bonte-quagga,
are only races of one and the same species. While, even if the present
specimen be only a 'sport' (which I consider unlikely), it will serve
to show that the southern and northern elands are more nearly related
than has hitherto been supposed."
1 In error for "British."
As my eland thus proved to be of some considerable scientific value,
and as the authorities of the British Museum expressed a desire to
possess its head, I gladly presented it to the Trustees, so that all
sportsmen and naturalists might have an opportunity of seeing it at the
Natural History Museum at South Kensington, where it now is.
APPENDIX
I.
SPORTSMEN who think of visiting British East Africa on a shooting trip
may be glad of a few general hints on points of interest and importance.
The battery, to be sufficient for all needs, should consist of a .450
express, a .303 sporting rifle, and a 12-bore shot gun; and I should
consider 250 rounds of .450 (50 hard and 200 soft), 300 rounds of .303
(100 hard and 200 soft), and 500 12-bore shot cartridges of say, the 6
and 8 sizes, sufficient for a three months' trip. Leather bandoliers to
carry 50 each of these different cartridges would also prove very
useful.
A couple of hundred rockets of various colours should certainly be
taken, as they are invaluable for signalling to and from camp after
dark. These can be obtained so as to fire from a 12-bore shot gun or
from a short pistol, and some should always be left with the camp
neopara (Headman) for use as occasion requires.
The rifles, cartridges, and rockets should be consigned to an agent in
Mombasa, and sent off from London in tin-lined cases at least a month
before the sportsman himself intends to start. It must be remembered
that the Customs House at Mombasa charges a 10 per cent duty on the
value of all articles imported, so that the invoices should be
preserved and produced for inspection.
The hunter's kit should include a good pith sunhat, a couple of suits
of khaki, leather gaiters or a couple of pairs of puttees, wash-leather
gloves to protect the hands from the sun, and two pairs of boots with
hemp soles; long Norwegian boots will also be found very useful. The
usual underclothing worn in England is all that is required if the
shooting is to be done in the highlands. A good warm overcoat will be
much appreciated up-country in the cool of the evenings, and a light
mackintosh for wet weather ought also to be included. For use in rocky
or thorny country, a pair of knee and elbow pads will be found
invaluable, and those who feel the sun should also provide themselves
with a spine-protector. The latter is a most useful article of kit, for
although the air may be pretty cool, the sun strikes down very fiercely
towards midday. A well-filled medicine chest should of course not be
forgotten.
A good field glass, a hunting and skinning knife or two, and a Kodak
with about 200 films should also be carried. With regard to the last
item, I should strongly advise all who intend to take photographs on
their trip to pay a visit to Mr. W.D. Young on arriving at Nairobi. He
is an enthusiastic photographer, and will gladly give advice to all as
to light and time of exposure; and as these are the two points which
require most attention, hints from some one of experience in the
country are most useful. I myself am much indebted to Mr. Young's
kindly advice, and I am sure I should not have achieved much success in
my pictures without it. I made it a practice on my last visit to the
country to send him the exposed films for development whenever I
reached a postal station, and I should recommend others to do the same,
as films deteriorate rapidly on the voyage home; indeed I had nearly
four hundred spoiled in this way, taken when I was in the country in
1898-99.
As regards camp equipment, all that need be taken out from England are
a small double-fly tent, three Jaeger blankets, a collapsible bath, a
Wolseley valise, and a good filter; and even these can be obtained just
as good locally. Chop boxes (food) and other necessary camp gear should
be obtained at Mombasa or Nairobi, where the agents will put up just
what is necessary. About a month before sailing from England a letter
should be sent to the agents, stating the date of arrival and what
porters, etc., will be required. The sportsman will then find
everything ready for him, so that an immediate start may be made.
Unless money is no object, I should not advise anyone to engage porters
at Mombasa, as equally good men can be obtained at Nairobi, thus saving
20 rupees per head in return railway fares. It must be remembered that
for transport work men are infinitely preferable to donkeys, as the
latter are exasperatingly slow and troublesome, especially on rough
ground or on crossing streams, where every load has to be unpacked,
carried over, and then reloaded on the animal's back. The caravan for
one sportsman--if he intends going far from the railway--is usually
made up as follows, though the exact numbers depend upon many
considerations:
1 Headman ................ 50 rupees[1] per month.
1 Cook ................... 35 " "
1 Gun-bearer ............. 20 " "
1 "Boy" (personal servant) 20 " "
2 Askaris (armed porters). 12 " " each.
30 Porters ................ 10 " " each.
[1] The rupee in British East Africa is on the basis of 15 to the pound
sterling.
The porters are all registered, the Government taking a small fee for
the registration; and according to custom half the wages due for the
whole trip are advanced to the men before a start is made. The
sportsman is obliged to provide each porter with a jersey, blanket and
water-bottle, while the gun-bearer and "boy" get a pair of boots in
addition. A cotton shelter-tent and a cooking pot must also be
furnished for every five men.
The food for the caravan is mostly rice, of which the Headman gets two
kibabas (a kibaba is about 1-1/2 lb.) per day; the cook, gun-bearer,
"boy" and askaris one and a half kibabas, and the ordinary porters, one
kibaba, each per day.
It is the duty of the Headman to keep discipline on the safari (caravan
journey), both in camp and on the march, and to see to the distribution
and safety of the loads, the pitching and striking of camp, the issue
of posho (food) to the porters, etc. He always brings up the rear of
the caravan, and on him depends greatly the general comfort of the
sportsman. For our trip at the beginning of 1906, we managed to secure
a splendid neapara, and never had the least trouble with the porters
all the time. His only drawback was that he could not speak English,
but he told me when he left us that he was going to learn. Anybody
securing him as Headman will be lucky; his name is Munyaki bin Dewani,
and he can easily be found at Mombasa.
The cook is also an important member of the caravan, and a good one
should be procured if possible. It is wonderful what an experienced
native mpishi (cook) can turn out in the way of a meal in a few minutes
after camp is pitched.
As gun-bearer, most hunters prefer a Somali. I have never tried one,
but am told that they are inclined to be troublesome; they certainly
rate themselves very highly, and demand about four times as much wages
as an equally good Swahili.
In camp, the duties of the askaris are to keep up the fire and watch at
night, and to pitch and strike the Bwana's (Master's) tent. On the
march one leads the caravan, the other brings up the rear; they give
assistance in the event of any trouble with the loads, see that no
desertions take place, allow no straggling and generally do what they
can to protect the caravan. They are each armed with an old snider
rifle and 10 rounds of ball cartridge, and are generally very dangerous
men to their friends when they take it into their heads to fire their
weapons.
The ordinary porters will carry their 60-lb. loads day in and day out
without complaint, so long as they are, well fed; but stint them of
their rice, and they at once become sulky mutineers. In addition to
carrying the loads, they pitch and strike camp, procure firewood and
water, and build grass huts if a stay of more than a day is intended to
be made at one place. On the whole, the Swahili porter is one of the
jolliest and most willing fellows in the world, and I have nothing but
praise for him.
It may be that our sportsman intends to confine his shooting trip to
the neighbourhood of the railway; in this case, the best plan is to
hire one of the special carriages from the Traffic Manager of the
Uganda Railway. These carriages, which have good sleeping, cooking, and
bath accommodation, can be attached to almost any train, and moved from
station to station or left standing in a siding at the directions of
the hunter. This is the cheapest and most comfortable way of spending a
short time in the country, as no tent, camp equipment, or regular
porters are required; and some quite good sport can be obtained into
the bargain.
Again, if the hunter intends shooting, say, in the Kenya Province, as
many porters as he requires may be obtained from the official in charge
at Fort Hall. The pay of the Kikuyu porter in such circumstances is
only two annas a day, while he provides his own food; neither is the
sportsman asked to furnish him with a blanket, jersey, and water-bottle
so long as he is not taken out of his own Province. Each Province is,
in fact, governed as regards porters by its own special conditions,
which can easily be ascertained on arrival in the country.
There are three lines of steamers which have direct sailings to Mombasa
about once a month. Two of these (the Union-Castle and the German East
African Lines) sail from Southampton, calling at Marseilles, while the
third (the Messageries-Maritimes) starts from the latter port. As a
rule travellers to East Africa journey by the overland route to
Marseilles and thence on by steamer to Mombasa--the whole journey from
London averaging about eighteen days.
The present fares for the best accommodation from London to Mombasa by
the Union-Castle Line (including railway ticket to Marseilles) are as
follows First-Class Single, about 48 pounds; Return (available for one
year) about 93 pounds.
The fares by the German East African Line (including railway ticket to
Marseilles) are:--First-Class; Single, about 48 pounds. The Return fare
(available for one; year) is double the Single fare, less 10 per cent,
of ocean part of journey.
By the Messageries-Maritimes Line the through First-Class Single fare
from London to Mombasa (including railway ticket to Marseilles) is
about 48 pounds. The Return fare (available for two years) is about 72
pounds.
Fairly good hotel accommodation can be had at both Mombasa and Nairobi.
Before any shooting can be done it is necessary to take out a Game
License, which may be obtained without difficulty at either of these
two centres. This license (which costs 50 pounds) imposes an obligation
on the sportsman to make a return before he leaves the country of every
animal shot by him. By obtaining a special license two elephants, a
giraffe, greater kudu, buffalo and eland may be shot; but there are
various stipulations and fees attaching to this license which alter
from time to time.
Fairly good maps of the country may be obtained at Stanford's, Long
Acre, W.C., while the Game Laws and Regulations can be procured from
the Colonial Office in Downing Street.
Passenger trains leave Mombasa at 11 a.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays,
Fridays, and Saturdays, and are timed to arrive at Nairobi at 11:15
next morning and at Kisumu (the railway terminus on Lake Victoria
Nyanza) at 9 o'clock on the morning following. The First-Class Return
fares from Mombasa to Nairobi, Kisumu, and Entebbe are 5 pounds 17s.
9d., 10 pounds 10s. 3d., and 13 pounds 13s. 3d. respectively.
It is unnecessary to specify district by district when particular
species of game are to be found, for the sportsman can easily learn
this for himself and get the latest news of game movements on his
arrival at Mombasa. As a matter of fact, the whole country abounds in
game, and there cannot be lack of sport and trophies for the keen
shikari. The heads and skins should be very carefully sun-dried and
packed in tin-lined cases with plenty of moth-killer for shipment home.
For mounting his trophies the sportsman cannot do better, I think, than
go to Rowland Ward of Piccadilly. I have had mine set up by this firm
for years past, and have always found their work excellent.
I consider that 400 pounds should cover the entire cost of a three
months' shooting trip to East Africa, including passage both ways. The
frugal sportsman will doubtless do it on less, while the extravagant
man will probably spend very much more.
Should time be available, a trip to the Victoria Nyanza should
certainly be made. The voyage round the Lake in one of the comfortable
railway steamers takes about eight days, but the crossing to Entebbe,
the official capital of Uganda, can be done in seventeen hours, though
it usually takes twenty-seven, as at night the boats anchor for shelter
under the lee of an island. The steamer remains long enough in Entebbe
harbour to enable the energetic traveller to pay a flying visit in a
rickshaw to Kampala, the native capital, some twenty-one miles off. I
spent a most interesting day last year in this way, and had a chat with
the boy King of Uganda, Daudi Chwa, at Mengo. He was then about nine
years old, and very bright and intelligent. He made no objection to my
taking his photograph, but it unfortunately turned out a failure.
It is curious to find the Baganda (i.e., people of Uganda) highly
civilised--the majority are Christians--surrounded as they are on all
sides by nations of practically naked savages; and it is a very
interesting, sight to watch them in the "bazaar" at Kampala, clad in
long flowing cotton garments, and busily engaged in bartering the
products of the country under the shade of tattered umbrellas.
Unfortunately the great scourge of the district round the shores of the
Lake is the sleeping sickness, which in the past few years has carried
off thousands of the natives, and has quite depopulated the islands,
which were once densely inhabited. The disease is communicated by the
bite of an infected fly, but happily this pest is only found in certain
well-defined regions, so that if the traveller avoids these he is quite
as safe, as regards sleeping sickness, as if he had remained in England.
On the return journey from Entebbe, Jinja, a port on the north side of
the Victoria Nyanza, is usually called at. This place is of great
interest, as it is here that the Lake narrows into a breadth of only a
few hundred yards, and, rushing over the Ripon Falls, forms the
long-sought-for source of the Nile. The magnificent view of the mighty
river stretching away to the north amid enchanting scenery is most
inspiring and one can well imagine how elated Speke must have felt when
after enduring countless hardships, he at last looked upon it and thus
solved one of the great problems the ancients.
II.
The following, is a literal translation of the Hindustani poem referred
to on p. 104:--
IN THE NAME OF ALLAH, THE MERCIFUL, THE COMPASSIONATE:
First must I speak to the praise and glory of God, who is infinite and
incomprehensible,
Who is without fault or error, who is the Life, though without body or
breath.
He has no relatives, nor father nor son, being himself incomparable and
passionless.
His is the knowledge of the known and of the unknown, and although
without a tongue, yet does he speak in mighty tones.
I, Roshan, came to this country of Africa, and did find it indeed a
strange land;
Many rocks, mountains, and dense forests abounding in lions and
leopards;
Also buffaloes, wolves, deer, rhinoceroses, elephants, camels, and all
enemies of man;
Gorillas, ferocious monkeys that attack men, black baboons of giant
size, spirits, and thousands of varieties of birds;
Wild horses, wild dogs, black snakes, and all animals that a hunter or
sportsman could desire.
The forests are so dark and dreadful that even the boldest warriors
shrink from their awful depths.
Now from the town of Mombasa, a railway line extends unto Uganda;
In the forests bordering on this line, there are found those lions
called "man-eaters," and moreover these forests are full of thorns and
prickly shrubs.
Portions of this railway from Mombasa to Uganda are still being made,
and here these lions fell on the workmen and destroyed them.
Such was their habit, day and night, and hundreds of men fell victims
to these savage creatures, whose very jaws were steeped in blood.
Bones, flesh, skin and blood, they devoured all, and left not a trace
behind them.
Because of the fear of these demons some seven or eight hundred of the
labourers deserted, and remained idle;
Some two or three hundred still remained, but they were haunted by this
terrible dread,
And because of fear for their lives, would sit in their huts, their
hearts full of foreboding and terror.
Every one of them kept a fire burning at night, and none dared to close
his eyes in sleep; yet would some of them be carried away to
destruction.
The lion's roar was such that the very earth would tremble at the
sound, and where was the man who did not feel afraid?
On all sides arose weeping and wailing, and the people would sit and
cry like cranes, complaining of the deeds of the lions.
I, Roshan, chief of my people, also complained and prayed to God, the
Prophet, and to our spiritual adviser.
And now will I relate the story of the Engineer in charge of the line.
He kept some ten or twenty goats, for the sake of their milk;
But one night a wild beast came, and destroyed them all, not one being
left.
And in the morning it was reported by the watchman, who also stated
that the man-eater was daily destroying the labourers and workmen, and
doing great injury;
And they took the Engineer with them and showed him the footprints of
the animal.
And after seeing what the animal had done, the Englishman spoke, and
said,
"For this damage the lion shall pay his life." And when night came he
took his gun and in very truth destroyed the beast.
Patterson Sahib is indeed a brave and valiant man, like unto those
Persian heroes of old--Rustem, Zal, Sohrab and Berzoor;
So brave is he, that the greatest warriors stood aghast at his action;
Tall in stature, young, most brave and of great strength is he.
From the other side of the line came the noise and cries of those who
complained that these savage beasts were eating and destroying men,
For such has been the habit of lions from time immemorial, and groups
of people have fallen victims to their fury.
Those who were proud or boastful, have but sacrificed their lives
uselessly;
But to-day Patterson Sahib will watch for the lion himself!
For the people have complained loudly, and the valiant one has gone
forth with his gun into the forest.
Soon after the people had retired at night to their tents, the fearless
lion made his appearance;
Patterson Sahib loaded both barrels of his gun and went forth against
him.
He fired many times in succession and totally paralysed the animal.
The lion roared like thunder as the bullets found their way to his
heart.
This Englishman, Patterson, is most brave, and is indeed the very
essence of valour;
Lions do not fear lions, yet one glance from Patterson Sahib cowed the
bravest of them.
He fled, making for the forest, while the bullets followed hard after
him;
So was this man-eater rendered helpless; he lay down in despair,
And after he had covered a chain's distance, the savage beast fell
down, a corpse.
Now the people, bearing lights in their hands, all ran to look at their
dead enemy.
But the Sahib said "Return, my children; the night is dark, do not rush
into danger."
And in the morning all the people saw the lion lying dead.
And then the Sahib said, "Do not think of work to-day--make holiday,
enjoy and be merry."
So the people had holiday and made merry with friends from whom they
had been long parted, on account of the lion:
And the absence of those who had run away was forgiven, and their money
allowed them--A generous action, comparable to the forgiveness of God
and the Prophet to sinners and criminals on the day of judgment.
Oh! poet, leave this kind of simile, it is too deep for thee;
We mortals have the Devil, like unto a fierce lion, ever after us;
Oh! Roshan, may God, the Prophet, and your spiritual adviser, safeguard
you day and night!
One lion, however, remained, and for fear of him all went in dread;
Sixteen days passed, all being well, and everyone enjoyed a peaceful
mind;
But again, on the seventeenth day, the lion appeared and remained from
sunset to sunrise.
He kept on roaming about in the neighbourhood like a general
reconnoitring the enemy's position.
On the following day the Sahib sent for the people and warned them all
to be careful of their lives;
"Do not go out from the afternoon even until the following morning," he
said.
Now this was the night of Shab-i-Kadr, a Muslim festival:
And at night when all had retired to rest, the lion came in a rage,
And Patterson Sahib went forth into the field to meet him.
And when he saw the beast, he fired quickly, bullet after bullet.
The lion made a great uproar, and fled for his life, but the bullets
nevertheless found a resting-place in his heart.
And everyone began to shriek and groan in their uneasy sleep, jumping
up in fear, when unexpectedly the roaring of the lion was heard.
All thought of sleep was banished, and fear came in its place:
And the Sahib gave emphatic orders that no one should go out, or roam
about.
And in the morning we followed the marks of blood that had flowed from
the wounded animal,
And some five or seven chains away, we found the lion, lying wounded
and in great pain.
And when the Sahib saw the animal he fired bullets incessantly;
But when the lion saw the Sahib, the savage animal, burning with rage,
and pain,
Came by leaps and bounds close to the Sahib; But here he was to meet
his match in a brave Sahib who loaded his gun calmly, and fired again
and again, killing the beast.
All the Punjaubis assembled together and agreed that the Sahib was a
man who appreciated and cared for others, so much so that he roamed
about in the forests for our sake, in order to protect us.
Previously, many Englishmen had come here to shoot but had been
disappointed,
Because the lion was very courageous and ferocious, and the Sahibs were
afraid;
But for the sake of our lives, Patterson Sahib took all this trouble,
risking his own life in the forest.
So they collected many hundreds of rupees, and offered it as a present
to the Sahib, because he had undergone such peril, in order to save our
lives.
Oh! Roshan, all the people appeared before the Sahib saying, "You are
our benefactor";
But the Sahib declined to accept the present, not taking a pice of it.
So then again the Punjaubis assembled, and consulted as to how the
service that the Sahib had done them could most suitably he rewarded.
And it was agreed to send all the money to England, in order that it
might be converted into some suitable present,
Which should bear an engraving of the two lions, and the name of the
mistari[1], head of the workmen.
The present should be such, and so suitably decorated, as to be
acceptable to Patterson Sahib;
In colour it should resemble moon and sun; and that would indeed be a
fit present, so that the Sahib would be pleased to accept it.
Oh! Roshan, I hope that he will accept this present for shooting the
lions, as some small reward for his action.
My native home is at Chajanlat, in the thana of Domli, which is in the
district of Jhelum, and I have related this story as it actually
occurred.
Patterson Sahib has left me, and I shall miss him as long as I live,
and now
Roshan must roam about in Africa, sad and regretful.
[1] Foreman-mason.
Composed by Roshan mistari, son of Kadur mistari Bakhsh, native of the
village of Chajanlat, Dakhli, Post Office Domli, district of Jhelum.
Dated 29th January, 1899.