Weighing anchor at Buenos Aires--An outburst of emotion at the mouth
of the Plate--Submerged by a great wave--A stormy entrance to the
strait--Captain Samblich's happy gift of a bag of carpet-tacks--Off
Cape Froward--Chased by Indians from Fortescue Bay--A miss-shot for
"Black Pedro"--Taking in supplies of wood and water at Three Island
Cove--Animal life.
On January 26, 1896, the _Spray_, being refitted and well provisioned
in every way, sailed from Buenos Aires. There was little wind at the
start; the surface of the great river was like a silver disk, and I
was glad of a tow from a harbor tug to clear the port entrance. But a
gale came up soon after, and caused an ugly sea, and instead of being
all silver, as before, the river was now all mud. The Plate is a
treacherous place for storms. One sailing there should always be on
the alert for squalls. I cast anchor before dark in the best lee I
could find near the land, but was tossed miserably all night,
heartsore of choppy seas. On the following morning I got the sloop
under way, and with reefed sails worked her down the river against a
head wind. Standing in that night to the place where pilot Howard
joined me for the up-river sail, I took a departure, shaping my course
to clear Point Indio on the one hand, and the English Bank on the
other.
[Illustration: A great wave off the Patagonian coast]
I had not for many years been south of these regions. I will not say
that I expected all fine sailing on the course for Cape Horn direct,
but while I worked at the sails and rigging I thought only of onward
and forward. It was when I anchored in the lonely places that a
feeling of awe crept over me. At the last anchorage on the monotonous
and muddy river, weak as it may seem, I gave way to my feelings. I
resolved then that I would anchor no more north of the Strait of
Magellan.
On the 28th of January the _Spray_ was clear of Point Indio, English
Bank, and all the other dangers of the River Plate. With a fair wind
she then bore away for the Strait of Magellan, under all sail,
pressing farther and farther toward the wonderland of the South, till
I forgot the blessings of our milder North.
My ship passed in safety Bahia Blanca, also the Gulf of St. Matias and
the mighty Gulf of St. George. Hoping that she might go clear of the
destructive tide-races, the dread of big craft or little along this
coast, I gave all the capes a berth of about fifty miles, for these
dangers extend many miles from the land. But where the sloop avoided
one danger she encountered another. For, one day, well off the
Patagonian coast, while the sloop was reaching under short sail, a
tremendous wave, the culmination, it seemed, of many waves, rolled
down upon her in a storm, roaring as it came. I had only a moment to
get all sail down and myself up on the peak halliards, out of danger,
when I saw the mighty crest towering masthead-high above me. The
mountain of water submerged my vessel. She shook in every timber and
reeled under the weight of the sea, but rose quickly out of it, and
rode grandly over the rollers that followed. It may have been a minute
that from my hold in the rigging I could see no part of the _Spray's_
hull. Perhaps it was even less time than that, but it seemed a long
while, for under great excitement one lives fast, and in a few seconds
one may think a great deal of one's past life. Not only did the past,
with electric speed, flash before me, but I had time while in my
hazardous position for resolutions for the future that would take a
long time to fulfil. The first one was, I remember, that if the
_Spray_ came through this danger I would dedicate my best energies
to building a larger ship on her lines, which I hope yet to do. Other
promises, less easily kept, I should have made under protest. However,
the incident, which filled me with fear, was only one more test of the
_Spray's_ seaworthiness. It reassured me against rude Cape Horn.
From the time the great wave swept over the _Spray_ until she reached
Cape Virgins nothing occurred to move a pulse and set blood in motion.
On the contrary, the weather became fine and the sea smooth and life
tranquil. The phenomenon of mirage frequently occurred. An albatross
sitting on the water one day loomed up like a large ship; two
fur-seals asleep on the surface of the sea appeared like great whales,
and a bank of haze I could have sworn was high land. The kaleidescope
then changed, and on the following day I sailed in a world peopled by
dwarfs.
[Illustration: Entrance to the Strait of Magellan.]
On February 11 the _Spray_ rounded Cape Virgins and entered the Strait
of Magellan. The scene was again real and gloomy; the wind, northeast,
and blowing a gale, sent feather-white spume along the coast; such a
sea ran as would swamp an ill-appointed ship. As the sloop neared the
entrance to the strait I observed that two great tide-races made
ahead, one very close to the point of the land and one farther
offshore. Between the two, in a sort of channel, through combers, went
the _Spray_ with close-reefed sails. But a rolling sea followed her a
long way in, and a fierce current swept around the cape against her;
but this she stemmed, and was soon chirruping under the lee of Cape
Virgins and running every minute into smoother water. However, long
trailing kelp from sunken rocks waved forebodingly under her keel, and
the wreck of a great steamship smashed on the beach abreast gave a
gloomy aspect to the scene.
I was not to be let off easy. The Virgins would collect tribute even
from the _Spray_ passing their promontory. Fitful rain-squalls from
the northwest followed the northeast gale. I reefed the sloop's sails,
and sitting in the cabin to rest my eyes, I was so strongly impressed
with what in all nature I might expect that as I dozed the very air I
breathed seemed to warn me of danger. My senses heard "_Spray_ ahoy!"
shouted in warning. I sprang to the deck, wondering who could be there
that knew the _Spray_ so well as to call out her name passing in the
dark; for it was now the blackest of nights all around, except away in
the southwest, where the old familiar white arch, the terror of Cape
Horn, rapidly pushed up by a southwest gale. I had only a moment to
douse sail and lash all solid when it struck like a shot from a
cannon, and for the first half-hour it was something to be remembered
by way of a gale. For thirty hours it kept on blowing hard. The sloop
could carry no more than a three-reefed mainsail and forestaysail;
with these she held on stoutly and was not blown out of the strait. In
the height of the squalls in this gale she doused all sail, and this
occurred often enough.
After this gale followed only a smart breeze, and the _Spray_, passing
through the narrows without mishap, cast anchor at Sandy Point on
February 14, 1896.
[Illustration: The course of the _Spray_ through the Strait of
Magellan.]
Sandy Point (Punta Arenas) is a Chilean coaling-station, and boasts
about two thousand inhabitants, of mixed nationality, but mostly
Chileans. What with sheep-farming, gold-mining, and hunting, the
settlers in this dreary land seemed not the worst off in the world.
But the natives, Patagonian and Fuegian, on the other hand, were as
squalid as contact with unscrupulous traders could make them. A large
percentage of the business there was traffic in "fire-water." If there
was a law against selling the poisonous stuff to the natives, it was
not enforced. Fine specimens of the Patagonian race, looking smart in
the morning when they came into town, had repented before night of
ever having seen a white man, so beastly drunk were they, to say
nothing about the peltry of which they had been robbed.
The port at that time was free, but a customhouse was in course of
construction, and when it is finished, port and tariff dues are to be
collected. A soldier police guarded the place, and a sort of vigilante
force besides took down its guns now and then; but as a general thing,
to my mind, whenever an execution was made they killed the wrong man.
Just previous to my arrival the governor, himself of a jovial turn of
mind, had sent a party of young bloods to foray a Fuegian settlement
and wipe out what they could of it on account of the recent massacre
of a schooner's crew somewhere else. Altogether the place was quite
newsy and supported two papers--dailies, I think. The port captain, a
Chilean naval officer, advised me to ship hands to fight Indians in
the strait farther west, and spoke of my stopping until a gunboat
should be going through, which would give me a tow. After canvassing
the place, however, I found only one man willing to embark, and he on
condition that I should ship another "mon and a doog." But as no one
else was willing to come along, and as I drew the line at dogs, I said
no more about the matter, but simply loaded my guns. At this point in
my dilemma Captain Pedro Samblich, a good Austrian of large
experience, coming along, gave me a bag of carpet-tacks, worth more
than all the fighting men and dogs of Tierra del Fuego. I protested
that I had no use for carpet-tacks on board. Samblich smiled at my
want of experience, and maintained stoutly that I would have use for
them. "You must use them with discretion," he said; "that is to say,
don't step on them yourself." With this remote hint about the use of
the tacks I got on all right, and saw the way to maintain clear decks
at night without the care of watching.
[Illustration: The man who wouldn't ship without another "mon and a
doog."]
Samblich was greatly interested in my voyage, and after giving me the
tacks he put on board bags of biscuits and a large quantity of smoked
venison. He declared that my bread, which was ordinary sea-biscuits
and easily broken, was not nutritious as his, which was so hard that I
could break it only with a stout blow from a maul. Then he gave me,
from his own sloop, a compass which was certainly better than mine,
and offered to unbend her mainsail for me if I would accept it. Last of
all, this large-hearted man brought out a bottle of Fuegian gold-dust
from a place where it had been _cached_ and begged me to help myself
from it, for use farther along on the voyage. But I felt sure of
success without this draft on a friend, and I was right. Samblich's
tacks, as it turned out, were of more value than gold.
[Illustration: A Fuegian Girl.]
The port captain finding that I was resolved to go, even alone, since
there was no help for it, set up no further objections, but advised
me, in case the savages tried to surround me with their canoes, to
shoot straight, and begin to do it in time, but to avoid killing them
if possible, which I heartily agreed to do. With these simple
injunctions the officer gave me my port clearance free of charge, and
I sailed on the same day, February 19, 1896. It was not without
thoughts of strange and stirring adventure beyond all I had yet
encountered that I now sailed into the country and very core of the
savage Fuegians.
A fair wind from Sandy Point brought me on the first day to St.
Nicholas Bay, where, so I was told, I might expect to meet savages;
but seeing no signs of life, I came to anchor in eight fathoms of
water, where I lay all night under a high mountain. Here I had my
first experience with the terrific squalls, called williwaws, which
extended from this point on through the strait to the Pacific. They
were compressed gales of wind that Boreas handed down over the hills
in chunks. A full-blown williwaw will throw a ship, even without sail
on, over on her beam ends; but, like other gales, they cease now and
then, if only for a short time.
February 20 was my birthday, and I found myself alone, with hardly so
much as a bird in sight, off Cape Froward, the southernmost point of
the continent of America. By daylight in the morning I was getting my
ship under way for the bout ahead.
The sloop held the wind fair while she ran thirty miles farther on her
course, which brought her to Fortescue Bay, and at once among the
natives' signal-fires, which blazed up now on all sides. Clouds flew
over the mountain from the west all day; at night my good east wind
failed, and in its stead a gale from the west soon came on. I gained
anchorage at twelve o'clock that night, under the lee of a little
island, and then prepared myself a cup of coffee, of which I was
sorely in need; for, to tell the truth, hard beating in the heavy
squalls and against the current had told on my strength. Finding that
the anchor held, I drank my beverage, and named the place Coffee
Island. It lies to the south of Charles Island, with only a narrow
channel between.
[Illustration: Looking west from Fortescue Bay, where the _Spray_ was
chased by Indians. (From a photograph.)]
By daylight the next morning the _Spray_ was again under way, beating
hard; but she came to in a cove in Charles Island, two and a half
miles along on her course. Here she remained undisturbed two days,
with both anchors down in a bed of kelp. Indeed, she might have
remained undisturbed indefinitely had not the wind moderated; for
during these two days it blew so hard that no boat could venture out
on the strait, and the natives being away to other hunting-grounds,
the island anchorage was safe. But at the end of the fierce wind-storm
fair weather came; then I got my anchors, and again sailed out upon
the strait.
Canoes manned by savages from Fortescue now came in pursuit. The wind
falling light, they gained on me rapidly till coming within hail, when
they ceased paddling, and a bow-legged savage stood up and called to
me, "Yammerschooner! yammerschooner!" which is their begging term. I
said, "No!" Now, I was not for letting on that I was alone, and so I
stepped into the cabin, and, passing through the hold, came out at the
fore-scuttle, changing my clothes as I went along. That made two men.
Then the piece of bowsprit which I had sawed off at Buenos Aires, and
which I had still on board, I arranged forward on the lookout, dressed
as a seaman, attaching a line by which I could pull it into motion.
That made three of us, and we didn't want to "yammerschooner"; but for
all that the savages came on faster than before. I saw that besides
four at the paddles in the canoe nearest to me, there were others in
the bottom, and that they were shifting hands often. At eighty yards I
fired a shot across the bows of the nearest canoe, at which they all
stopped, but only for a moment. Seeing that they persisted in coming
nearer, I fired the second shot so close to the chap who wanted to
"yammerschooner" that he changed his mind quickly enough and bellowed
with fear, "Bueno jo via Isla," and sitting down in his canoe, he
rubbed his starboard cat-head for some time. I was thinking of the
good port captain's advice when I pulled the trigger, and must have
aimed pretty straight; however, a miss was as good as a mile for Mr.
"Black Pedro," as he it was, and no other, a leader in several bloody
massacres. He made for the island now, and the others followed him. I
knew by his Spanish lingo and by his full beard that he was the
villain I have named, a renegade mongrel, and the worst murderer in
Tierra del Fuego. The authorities had been in search of him for two
years. The Fuegians are not bearded.
So much for the first day among the savages. I came to anchor at
midnight in Three Island Cove, about twenty miles along from Fortescue
Bay. I saw on the opposite side of the strait signal-fires, and heard
the barking of dogs, but where I lay it was quite deserted by natives.
I have always taken it as a sign that where I found birds sitting
about, or seals on the rocks, I should not find savage Indians. Seals
are never plentiful in these waters, but in Three Island Cove I saw
one on the rocks, and other signs of the absence of savage men.
[Illustration: A brush with Fuegians]
On the next day the wind was again blowing a gale, and although she
was in the lee of the land, the sloop dragged her anchors, so that I
had to get her under way and beat farther into the cove, where I came
to in a landlocked pool. At another time or place this would have been
a rash thing to do, and it was safe now only from the fact that the
gale which drove me to shelter would keep the Indians from crossing
the strait. Seeing this was the case, I went ashore with gun and ax on
an island, where I could not in any event be surprised, and there
felled trees and split about a cord of fire-wood, which loaded my
small boat several times.
While I carried the wood, though I was morally sure there were no
savages near, I never once went to or from the skiff without my gun.
While I had that and a clear field of over eighty yards about me I
felt safe.
The trees on the island, very scattering, were a sort of beech and a
stunted cedar, both of which made good fuel. Even the green limbs of
the beech, which seemed to possess a resinous quality, burned readily
in my great drum-stove. I have described my method of wooding up in
detail, that the reader who has kindly borne with me so far may see
that in this, as in all other particulars of my voyage, I took great
care against all kinds of surprises, whether by animals or by the
elements. In the Strait of Magellan the greatest vigilance was
necessary. In this instance I reasoned that I had all about me the
greatest danger of the whole voyage--the treachery of cunning savages,
for which I must be particularly on the alert.
The _Spray_ sailed from Three Island Cove in the morning after the
gale went down, but was glad to return for shelter from another sudden
gale. Sailing again on the following day, she fetched Borgia Bay, a
few miles on her course, where vessels had anchored from time to time
and had nailed boards on the trees ashore with name and date of
harboring carved or painted. Nothing else could I see to indicate that
civilized man had ever been there. I had taken a survey of the gloomy
place with my spy-glass, and was getting my boat out to land and take
notes, when the Chilean gunboat _Huemel_ came in, and officers, coming
on board, advised me to leave the place at once, a thing that required
little eloquence to persuade me to do. I accepted the captain's kind
offer of a tow to the next anchorage, at the place called Notch Cove,
eight miles farther along, where I should be clear of the worst of the
Fuegians.
[Illustration: A bit of friendly assistance. (After a sketch by
Midshipman Miguel Arenas.)]
We made anchorage at the cove about dark that night, while the wind
came down in fierce williwaws from the mountains. An instance of
Magellan weather was afforded when the _Huemel_, a well-appointed
gunboat of great power, after attempting on the following day to
proceed on her voyage, was obliged by sheer force of the wind to
return and take up anchorage again and remain till the gale abated;
and lucky she was to get back!
Meeting this vessel was a little godsend. She was commanded and
officered by high-class sailors and educated gentlemen. An
entertainment that was gotten up on her, impromptu, at the Notch would
be hard to beat anywhere. One of her midshipmen sang popular songs in
French, German, and Spanish, and one (so he said) in Russian. If the
audience did not know the lingo of one song from another, it was no
drawback to the merriment.
I was left alone the next day, for then the _Huemel_ put out on her
voyage the gale having abated. I spent a day taking in wood and water;
by the end of that time the weather was fine. Then I sailed from the
desolate place.
There is little more to be said concerning the _Spray's_ first passage
through the strait that would differ from what I have already
recorded. She anchored and weighed many times, and beat many days
against the current, with now and then a "slant" for a few miles, till
finally she gained anchorage and shelter for the night at Port Tamar,
with Cape Pillar in sight to the west. Here I felt the throb of the
great ocean that lay before me. I knew now that I had put a world
behind me, and that I was opening out another world ahead. I had
passed the haunts of savages. Great piles of granite mountains of
bleak and lifeless aspect were now astern; on some of them not even a
speck of moss had ever grown. There was an unfinished newness all
about the land. On the hill back of Port Tamar a small beacon had been
thrown up, showing that some man had been there. But how could one
tell but that he had died of loneliness and grief? In a bleak land is
not the place to enjoy solitude.
Throughout the whole of the strait west of Cape Froward I saw no
animals except dogs owned by savages. These I saw often enough, and
heard them yelping night and day. Birds were not plentiful. The scream
of a wild fowl, which I took for a loon, sometimes startled me with
its piercing cry. The steamboat duck, so called because it propels
itself over the sea with its wings, and resembles a miniature
side-wheel steamer in its motion, was sometimes seen scurrying on out
of danger. It never flies, but, hitting the water instead of the air
with its wings, it moves faster than a rowboat or a canoe. The few
fur-seals I saw were very shy; and of fishes I saw next to none at
all. I did not catch one; indeed, I seldom or never put a hook over
during the whole voyage. Here in the strait I found great abundance of
mussels of an excellent quality. I fared sumptuously on them. There
was a sort of swan, smaller than a Muscovy duck, which might have been
brought down with the gun, but in the loneliness of life about the
dreary country I found myself in no mood to make one life less, except
in self-defense.