Traps and Other Hints for Trappers.
All trappers have their favorite traps--the writer has his. Every boy
knows that the Newhouse trap is at the top of the ladder, as to
quality, but as to convenience, well, I prefer the No. 1 1/2 Oneida
Jump trap, which is superior to all others on the market for small
game. This trap is now made with jaws much thicker than the original
"Jump" (Blake & Lamb), and the way the chain is now fastened gives
the animal a straight draw instead of a twist, as was the case with
the Blake & Lamb style. The Oneida Jump however, is lacking in
strength of the springs, being much weaker than the Blake & Lamb of
the same size but in all other ways I consider it far better than the
original Blake & Lamb. The spring being so much weaker than the Blake
& Lamb springs were, is a serious drawback, as the Oneida Jump trap
of this size will not hold a large raccoon or a large fox.
Now, while many trappers might not seriously object to the trap on
these grounds as they use many different sizes of traps or a
different size of trap for each animal. This I never do in trapper
the smaller animals, for when I make a dry or ground set, I set the
trap for any animal from the fox to the coon or wildcat, although I
may be more particular making the set for mink.
It makes a trapper feel sore to go to a trap and find that a fox or
coon has been in his trap and escaped. This rarely if ever occurs
when using the Blake & Lamb No. 1 1/2 trap, or as the original was
called No. 2, though it had the same spread of jaws as the No. 1 1/2
Oneida Jump. Now the advantages that the Oneida Jump trap has over
the long spring trap are many. The most desirable are perhaps the
easy manner in which the "jump" trap can be concealed. In fact, a
practical set can be made in certain places where it is entirely
impracticable to make the set with a long spring trap. Another
advantage that the "jump" trap has over the bow or long spring trap
is its comparison to the long spring trap in shipping by express.
This, if going on a long journey, to your trapping grounds, is not
safe by freight, as the trapping season may be over before your traps
reach you. Still another advantage is the amount of room saved in
packing, for you can pack two of the "jump" traps in the same space
required to pack one long spring trap. The writer has had a good deal
of experience in this matter and knows the difference in handling the
two makes of traps.
Now I do not like to use the double spring "jump" trap where I am
trapping, for I might possibly catch a dog or other domestic animal
and it is a hard trap to get a live animal out of.
Many, perhaps most trappers use the No. 1 trap for trapping mink,
muskrat, marten, etc. The No. 1 Newhouse or Victor is sufficiently
strong for these animals but as I have stated, I do not think this
the best plan if the trapper is operating on grounds where there are
larger animals to be taken, as most frequently the one set can be
made to catch several kinds of animals. I have found also that one is
more liable to catch the animal by the end of the toes in a No. 1
trap than in the No. 1 1/2, but where one is trapping for the
purposes of saving the fox, skunk or other animal alive, then the No.
1 trap should be used, as the animal is not so liable to break a leg
or to hurt the foot so badly.
For otter I prefer the single spring Newhouse trap, owing to the fact
that it is more easily concealed than the double spring trap. I see
that a number of writers think that the No. 5 bear trap should have a
larger spread of jaw so as to catch higher on the bear's foot. Now I
do not intend to dictate to others as to what kind of a trap they
should use, not in the least, for I have my own ideas as to traps and
guns as well as the manner of using them. Now as for myself, I think
the Newhouse No. 5 bear trap could not be improved, as to spread of
jaws. The grasp is just right to catch the bear through the thick of
the foot where there is no danger of the bear twisting the foot off.
In case where the trap has a spread of jaws sufficient to grasp above
the foot and for more space for the bear to place his foot well
between the jaws, will say there is plenty of room in the Newhouse
No. 5 trap, if the trap is properly set. I also see that some
trappers want the swivel in the trap chain 8 or ten inches from the
bed piece, or the point of fastening. Now I am somewhat puzzled as to
an explanation in this matter, as it seems to me that the swivel will
be far less liable to become useless by being twisted or wound around
saplings, etc., where the swivel is close to the bed piece than it
would be if placed eight or ten inches out in the chain. I prefer to
have the swivel in my trap chain placed as close to the trap as
possible.
[Illustration: WOODCOCK AND HIS STEEL TRAPS.]
Another thing that I have but little use for is a trap from which the
animal must take the bait in order to spring it, for often the animal
will go up close enough to a trap to inspect the bait but will not
touch it.
I do not think that there should be a latch on any trap, as I think
that often the animal's foot is thrown free from the trap, or at
least causes many catches by the tips of the toes and the animal
escapes, becoming a hard animal to catch thereafter. The animal
having a part of the foot resting on the latch and the toes striking
the treadle sufficient to unlatch the treadle, the released jaw will
throw the latch with the portion of the animal's foot resting on the
latch, free from the trap, or at least may often cause a slight catch
of the toes or other part of the foot. All that is necessary is to
leave an extension to the arm or heel of the treadle to catch over
the jaw of the trap. The trap may be made to spring hard or easy by
simply raising the pan slightly higher or lowering it to catch
farther on to the jaw of the trap more or less as desired.
Now boys, I have given a few of my ideas as to traps, and if any of
you have any suggestions to make as to improvements on the animal
steel traps, let us hear from you through the columns of the H-T-T. I
believe that manufacturers of animal or game traps would be glad to
make any improvements on their traps could they be convinced that the
suggested improvements were really of any value.
* * *
As I get many letters from trappers who are beginners in the business
making inquiries about camping and the necessary traps, guns, etc., I
will try to give a few practical hints to those who have had but
limited experience of trapper's life. While, like the setting of a
trap, there is no single code of rules that will answer for all
localities and conditions, I will give a few general rules.
The trapper should first try and inform himself of the nature and
conditions of the locality where he intends to trap. If the waters
are of such a size that a boat can be used to advantage, then the
boat becomes a necessity. Now in regard to traps. If the section
where you intend to trap has the larger animals like bear, otter,
beaver, etc., then the trapper should provide himself with a
sufficient number of traps of different sizes as he may be able to
tend and do it well.
I would advise to start with, that the trapper has about one-half
dozen No. 5 bear traps, one dozen No. 4 wolf and about the same of
No. 3. But the greater number of traps will be Numbers 1 1/2 and 2,
if of the Jump or Blake & Lamb pattern. If of other patterns would
say use the Hawley & Norton Nos. 1 1/2 and 2, say 75 No. 1 1/2 and 25
No. 2. The genuine Newhouse is of course the best long spring trap
made, but a little more expensive, and we find that the H. & N. fills
the bill. We prefer the B. & L. on account of its lightness and
convenience in setting.
Now, if the trapper is trapping where the animals are no larger than
fox, raccoon, wildcat, etc., then I want no traps larger than the No.
2 1/2, nor smaller than the No. 1 1/2 Blake & Lamb.
Now about the gun. If you are in a large game country it is quite
necessary that you carry a good rifle. I like the Winchester and not
of too large a caliber, but if there is no large game in the locality
then I think one should have a Stevens pistol, ten-inch barrel, or a
Stevens Pocket Shotgun, 15-inch barrel, and in either case have a
good holster to carry it in. As for myself I prefer a Pocket Shotgun.
It might be well to have a large shotgun in camp. You will also want
your belt axe or hatchet and a good heavy sharp axe at the camp.
As for bedding, this will largely depend on what kind of a cabin or
camp you have. If you are in a tent, two persons should have not less
than six good blankets. If your camp is so situated that you can
drive to it with a team or pack horses, then you should have a straw
mattress. But if you are in a locality where you can get cedar or
hemlock boughs, you should use only the finer boughs. Begin at the
foot of the berth and push the larger or butt end of the bough into
the ground and then begin the next row so as to lap or shingle onto
the first row, and so on until the head of the berth is reached.
If you use a tent, I find that it is a good idea to make a skeleton
frame of good heavy poles over the tent and about twelve inches above
and around the tent and shingle it well with boughs, so that the snow
will not fall directly on the tent. It will be a great help in
keeping out the cold. But I think it is best to have at least one
good log cabin well chinked, mudded and banked. Always select a spot
where it is easy to drain away the surface water on all sides of the
camp, and if possible have the main camp close to good pure water
which is a great protection against malaria.
If you are doing a stroke of business so that you will need more than
one camp, the others need not be quite so tidy as the main camp, for
it is not likely that you will occupy them more than a night or two
at a time. Your temporary camps need not be larger than 6 x 8 and
quite low, as this will save both fuel and bedding. Do not forget to
get up a good supply of wood at all the camps before the trapping
season is open, for you will find plenty to do after the trapping
season opens without cutting wood.
The main camp should be at least 10 x 12 feet inside. A place should
be provided for curing furs outside. Furs should never be cured by a
fire or in a warm place, for this will have a tendency to curl the
ends of the fur and give it a woolly appearance. There can usually be
a place fixed either on the outer gable or under the eaves of the
cabin to cure the furs.
Now, as to the commissary part. You will, of course, to a great
extent select the kind and quantity according to the distance and
convenience in getting the grub to camp. The camper will find that
the most convenient as well as better satisfaction, as a rule, will
be found in taking provisions to camp in a crude state, i.e., wheat
flour, corn meal, beans, bacon, with the necessary supply of tea,
coffee, sugar, good baking powder, salt, pepper and a quantity of
rice. If, as I have before stated, the camp is so located as to be of
easy access by wagon, then choose a bill-of-fare to your own liking.
The medicine box should contain a box of good cathartic pills and a
quantity of 2-grain quinine tablets, with any other medicine you may
wish. Other necessities about the camp are a good supply of strong
cord, a few feet of small rope, a yard or two of muslin, a yard of
oilcloth.
It may be well to give a few suggestions about a temporary camp for a
night, if by chance you should get caught out and unable to reach
camp. You should select a place before dark. If a large fallen tree
can be found that lies close to the ground where you wish to build
the fire it is best. If the log cannot be readily found then select a
bank or knoll to build the fire against. First, build the fire out
from the log five or six feet where you will make your bed so as to
warm the ground. Now set two crotches about four feet high and place
a pole in these crotches. Then from this pole place three or four
poles, one end on the ground, the other resting on the pole that
rests in the crotches. Then place boughs, bark, or anything to break
the wind. This shelter will, of course, be placed over the spot where
you will make your bed. Now rake the coals and live embers down
against the log where you will have the fire for the night. Now place
some boughs over the spot where the fire has been and where your bed
will be.
With this kind of a camp you can get along through a rather chilly
night. You should always carry matches wrapped in waxed paper in
three or four different places about your person. You may lose your
match safe.
If convenient, when going into camp, you should take several
stretching boards for different kinds of fur with you. If not, you
can usually find a tree that will split good and you can split some
out. It is usually hard to find withes that are long and straight
enough to bend so as to form a good shaped stretcher. You should
always aim to stretch and cure the furs you catch in the best manner.
In skinning you should rip the animal straight from one heel across
to the other and close to the roots of the tail on the under side.
Work the skin loose around the bone at the base until you can grasp
the bone of the tail with the first two fingers of the right hand
while you place the bone between the first two fingers of the left
hand. Then by pulling you will draw the entire bone from the tail
which you should always do.
Sometimes when the animal has been dead some time the bone will not
readily draw from the tail. In this case you should cut a stick the
size of your finger about eight inches long. Cut it away in the
center until it will readily bend so that the two ends will come
together. Then cut a notch in each part of the stick just large
enough to let the bone of the tail in and squeeze it out. It is
necessary to whittle one side of the stick at the notch so as to form
a square shoulder.
You should have about three sizes of stretching boards for mink and
fox. For mink they should be from 4 1/2 inches down to 3 inches and
for fox from 6 1/4 inches down to 5 inches wide, and in length the
fox boards may be four feet and the mink boards three feet long. The
boards should taper slightly down to within 8 inches of the end for
fox and then rounded up to a point. The mink boards should be rounded
at 4 or 5 inches from this point. You will vary the shape of the
board in proportion to the width. Stretching boards should not be
more than 3/8 inch thick. A belly strip the length, or nearly the
length, of the boards 1 1/4 inches at the wide end, tapering to a
point at the other end and about 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick. Have the
boards smooth and even on the edges. Other stretching boards should
be made in proportion to the size and shape of the animal whose skin
is to be stretched.
You should not fail to remove all the fat and flesh from the skin
immediately after the skin is on the board. If a skin is quite wet
when taken from the animal it should be drawn lightly on the board
until the fur is quite dry. Then turn the skin flesh side out and
stretch.
It is always best if you can go into the country where you intend to
trap. This is especially important if the ground is a new field to
you. During the summer or early fall, acquaint yourself with the
streams and the general surroundings, and prepare some of your best
sets for the mink and the fox.
If you have a dog of good intelligence take him along, though he may
not be broken to the business of trapping. It is many a fox and coon
that my dog has saved for me when they have escaped from footing or a
broken chain. If the dog is of much intelligence, and you use care in
training him, you will soon find that a dog will learn more about
trapping than you supposed possible. If you have long lines of traps
your dog will inform you more than once that you have passed a trap
that chanced to be a little off the main line.
* * *
Brother bear trappers, how do you like this style of bear trap (see
frontispiece) for toting through the woods three or four miles from
camp and at the same time tote a couple of sheep heads or the head of
a beef for bait? In times gone by I have carried two or three
Newhouse bear traps and bait to bait them with from one to five miles
in the woods to pinch old Bruin's toes. Such is a pleasure to any red
blooded man, who was born a real lover of the open and the
stimulating effect of obtaining that $30 or $40, which the hide and
meat of the bear brought, had on the trapper, was nearly equal to the
desire to be out in the tall timber.
Now brother bear trappers, these traps that you see on my shoulder
are of my own make and are made with a half circle bed piece instead
of a straight bed piece, as the ordinary trap is made. I wish to call
your attention to how this trap fits the shoulders and how much
easier it is to carry than the trap with the straight bed piece and
note how much more readily you can get your gun into shape for
action. Many a deer has given me the slip before I could drop the
bear traps and get my gun ready for action when I have been toting
bear traps in the woods. But with this style of trap your gun can be
put in operation at once, regardless of the traps.
Boys, another thing that I have learned in the last five years'
experience in trapping in the south, (this was written Spring of
1913) is that it requires a trap a size larger to trap small fur
bearers in the south than it does in the north, owing to the
difference in conditions of the streams and the soil. Well friend
Bachelder, there is no use of you and I talking or worrying any more
over our bear traps or bear trapping. The gentleman sportsman and his
dog has ordered you and I and all other trappers of Pennsylvania for
that matter to cast our traps on to the scrap pile and we must
submit.