A Hunt on the Kinzua.
Comrades, as I have not been able to trap any for the past two
years--1905 and 1906--and as I have previously served for more than 50
years almost without cessation, along the trap line, I beg to be
admitted to your ranks as one of the "Hasbeens."
I will therefore tell of one of my trips on a hunting and trapping
expedition in the fall and winter of 1865-6, a party of two besides
myself. My two companions' names were Charles Manly and William
Howard. We started about the 15th of October for Coudersport with a
team of horses and wagon loaded with the greater part of our outfit
and went to Emporium, Cameron County, where we hit the Philadelphia
and Erie Railroad. The only railroad that touched Northwestern
Pennsylvania at that time. Here we took the railroad to Kane, a town
in Southwestern McKean County, where we stopped one day and made
purchases for three months' camping. We hired a good team here to
take our outfit about seven or eight miles on to Kinzua Creek.
Almost the entire distance was through the woods and over the rock.
There was no sign of a road only as we went ahead of the team and cut
a tree or log here and there. The outfit was lashed onto a bobsled,
and as we had bargained with the man to make the trip for a stated
price, he did not seem to care whether there was any road or not, so
that he got through as quickly as possible.
We reached the stream about noon. The man fed his team some oats,
swallowed a few mouthsful himself and was soon on his way back to
town, while we began laying plans for our camp. We selected a spot on
a little rise of ground near a good spring of water, and where there
was plenty of small yellow birch trees handy to cut logs out of for
camp. We placed a good sized log down first at the end of the shanty
that we intended to build the fire place in. Another was placed at
the end that was to be the highest, so to give the right slope to the
roof, which was a shed roof. We always kept the large ends of the
logs one way, so that when we had the logs rolled up it made the
lower or eaves end of the camp about five feet high.
There was a slope of about two feet for the roof. We felled bass wood
trees which we split in half, and then dug or scooped them out so as
to make a trough. We notched the two end logs down and then placed
the scoops or troughs in these notches so that they would lay firm
with the hollow side up.
After placing these scoops across the entire width of the shack we
then placed another layer of the scoops (reverse) on the first set.
That is to say, the rounding side up. This made a very good roof but
required a good deal of chinking at the ends to keep the cold out,
but as moss was plenty, it was not a long job. The second day after
we got into the woods we had the camp in pretty good shape, well
chinked and calked.
The third day we worked on the fire place, laying it up to the jam of
stone, then we finished the chimney with logs and mud. We had a
fairly comfortable camp with but two exceptions. These were, no
windows, and for a door we had what I called a "hoghole," that was a
door so small that one had to get down on all fours to get in or out.
On the fourth day we intended to cut wood all day, and were at it
before it was fairly light, but before 10 o'clock it began to snow.
In a couple of hours there was a good tracking snow and the boys were
bound to go out and see if they could not kill a deer. I tried hard
to get them to stick to the wood job, but it was no use, they must go
hunting.
There was no partnership business in this hunt. It was every man for
himself, and the dogs, take the hindermost. I told the boys I would
stay in camp and do something at the wood job.
I had been along the creek a little the day before, poking my nose
under the banks and old drifts to see what manner of signs I could
see, and I had noticed several mink tracks. The boys had no more than
gone when I had a fishing tackle rigged out. It consisted of a line
braided from horsehair, out of a horse's tail, and a hook baited with
some bits of fat pork. It did the business, for the stream fairly
swarmed with trout. Taking three or four trout for bait, I was soon
at work building deadfalls. It was not long before I had three or
four built close up under the banks and behind logs where I thought
the boys would not see them.
I then scampered back to camp and went to cutting wood like a good
boy. I had only just got to camp when I heard a gun shot away up the
creek, and in about an hour Charley came dragging a yearling deer.
Will did not show up for some time after dark, but had nothing,
though he said that he had a fair standing shot at a large buck, but
his gun snapped on him and he lost.
The next morning we were out at the peep of day, each one going his
own way. I went down the creek so that I could take a peep at my
traps. None had been disturbed until I came to the last one. There,
to my satisfaction, I found a mink. As I had passed a small run that
emptied into the main creek I noticed that some animal had gone over
a pole that lay across a little run and partly in the water. The
animal had brushed the snow off the pole in going over it. I gave it
no particular attention, thinking that it was a coon, but when I got
the mink I thought I would go back to camp, make a stretching board
and stretch the mink skin and get a trap and set at the run for the
coon, as I supposed.
I will mention that furs were bringing about the same prices then as
at the present time, 1907, a good No. 1 mink being worth about $10.
Near the camp was a large elm tree that was hollow, and the fire had
burned a hole out on one side up the tree, nearly as high as a man's
head. After I had stretched the mink skin I hung it up in this hollow
tree, and it was a very good place to dry the pelts that I caught.
The boys never mistrusted that I was doing any trapping for small
game.
To get back to my job, I took one out of three steel traps No. 3, and
all the traps that we had brought with us. In fact, the other boys
did not care to trap. When I got back at the run I gave more
attention to the trail of the supposed coon, and discovered that it
was an otter. With greater caution I waded up the run until I found a
suitable place to set the trap, knowing that he would be back that
way again sooner or later.
After setting the trap I climbed the ridge to look for deer and got
two shots during the afternoon but missed both. All came to camp that
night without killing any deer. I had seen a number of marten tracks
during the afternoon. The next morning it was thawing and the boys
feared they would lose the tracking snow, so Charley and Will hurried
to localities where they expected to find deer. I sliced some strips
of venison from the fore-quarters, or rather what was left of the
fore-quarters, of the deer Charley had killed the first day out. I
made tracks to the ridge where I had seen the marten tracks, and I
lost no time in putting up deadfalls at the best pace I was capable
of getting into.
In the afternoon on my way to camp I came to the creek some ways
below where I had set the mink traps, so I put up two or three more
deadfalls for mink. I also found a big flood drift which otter were
using for their feeding grounds. I selected places to set the other
two steel traps which were in camp, and then went to camp, looking at
the mink traps on the way, but found that none had been disturbed.
When I got to camp I found both Charley and Will there, and each had
killed a deer. Will had killed a good sized buck close to camp, so he
dragged it down to the shanty to dress and hang up. The boys gave me
the laugh because I had not killed any deer. I told them to hold
their breath and I would get into the harness after a bit. In the
morning the snow was all gone and the boys were afraid that it was
going to get so warm that their venison would spoil. Cuts were drawn
to see which one of them should go to Kane to get a team to take out
their venison. It fell on Charley. They tried to have me join in the
draw, but I told them that I did not see where I came in as I had no
venison to spoil.
The weather kept warm for several days, so I kept building deadfalls
on the different ridges for marten and along the creek for mink and
coon. Charley and Will continued to still hunt, killing several deer.
When the snow came again I had all the traps up I intended to build,
but it turned out that later I built two deadfalls for bear. I now
put in my time still hunting, shaping my course as much as possible
so as to tend to my traps. I killed a deer occasionally as did the
other boys. I set the two steel traps on the drift where I had seen
the otter signs, and the second time I looked at them I found an
otter tangled up in one of the traps.
I was also getting mink, marten and coon now and then, and
occasionally I would get two mink or marten in one day. I would cut a
long slender withe to stretch the skins over, bending them in the
form of a stretching board the best I could and hang the pelts in the
old elm tree and kept mum. I remembered the old adage, "he that
laughs last, laughs best," and was bound to have the last laugh.
One night Will came in and said that a bear had eaten up the offal
where he had dressed a deer. I asked him if he was going to set a
trap for him, and he said that he had no trap to set. I told him to
build a deadfall. Will said that I could have that job if I wanted
it. I told him all right if he would tell me where to find the place.
He said that he would go with me in the morning and show me. In the
morning I took the best axe, some bait and went with Will to the
place where the bear had eaten the offal. We saw that the bear had
been back there during the night and cleaned up the remains left the
previous night.
I selected a good sized beech tree, where I could fell it so that I
could cut a piece from the butt for the bottom piece and have the
remainder of the tree come so that I could use a small tree for one
of the stakes or posts. When I pulled off my coat and began chopping
on the tree Will gave me the laugh again, and said that I had more
days' work in me than brains, or something to that effect.
It was my intention to get the trap all ready and then get one of the
boys to help me set it. I got the trap done and saw that by using a
long lever or pry I could set the trap without the aid of another.
With the pry I raised the dead piece up as high as I wanted it. Then
tied the lever to a sapling to hold the dead log in place, using the
figure four trigger. I placed a bit of log in the bait pen to rest
the bait spindle on. I then placed the trigger in place and pressed
them between the logs to steady them until I could release the lever
and let the weight onto the trigger. I then put some poles onto the
dead log to make doubly sure that I had weight enough to kill any
bear that traveled those woods. I now went to camp giving myself
credit of doing a good job.
When the boys came in the night of the day I built the first deadfall
for bear, they both reported seeing bear tracks and they said the
tracks all seemed to be going south. I told the boys that the bear
were looking up winter quarters, and that if we would all go at it
and put up several deadfalls we would stand a fair chance to get a
bear or two, but it was no go.
They said they would give me a clean title to all the bear I could
catch, but they did not care to invest. So I took the axe and some
bait and went to the head of a small draft where the boys had seen
the bear tracks. I found at the head of this hollow what seemed to be
a bear runway or crossing, for three or four bears had passed around
the head of this basin in the past few days.
With some hard work and heavy lifting I got another good deadfall
built that day. The next day I went the rounds of the marten and mink
traps, and I think I killed a deer and got two marten. I remember
that at this time we had a good snow to hunt on, and that it was not
an uncommon thing for us to cut wood for the camp long after dark,
and sometimes it was pretty scant at that. I think it was the third
day after I had set the first bear trap when Will came in, shortly
after Charley and I had got to camp, and as he stuck his head through
the hoghole (as I called the substitute for a door) he says, a fool
for luck.
I suspicioned what was coming and said, "Well, what kind of luck have
you had?"
Will said, "It is not me that has had the luck, but you have got one
of the Jed-blasted bears up there in that rigging you built, you ever
see."
I remember that I had some kind of a hipo that night, so that I would
laugh every now and then "kindy" all by myself. I do not think that I
slept much that night, though it was not the first bear I had ever
caught. I thought it was beginning to look as though the laugh was
coming my way all right.
In the morning the boys went to the trap with me and helped get the
bear out of the trap and helped set the trap again, and then went on
with their deer hunting. I went to skinning the bear, and it was all
I did that day to skin that bear and stretch the skin on the shanty.
I told the boys when they came in that night that I thought we were
going to have a hard winter, and so I concluded to weatherboard the
camp with bear skins. The carcass of the bear was, of course, a
complete loss, and that is a serious objection to the deadfall as a
bear trap.
I think that it was about this time that Will met with an accident in
his foot gear, so he went out to Kane after a pair of gum shoes. At
this time we had several deer so thought it best to have the team
come in and take them out and ship them.
When Will came back that evening he said that some kind of an animal
had crossed the path about one-half mile from camp, dragging
something. He said that he could not make up his mind what it was,
but thought it was some kind of an animal in a trap, but we knew of
no one trapping in that locality.
I did not know but it might be possible that some animal had gotten
in one of my otter traps and had broken the chain and gone off with
the trap. Early in the morning I went down the creek to look at the
traps and see if they were all right. When I came to the Spring Run I
saw that my otter (or at least I called it my otter), had again gone
up the run, on his usual round of travel. When I came to where the
trap was it wasn't there at all.
I had fastened the trap to a root that was two or three inches under
water and a root that I supposed sound. I was mistaken, for the root
was pretty doty and the otter had broken the root and gone with my
trap. I lost no time in taking up the chase. The trail led up this
run to its source, then over a spur of ridge and down the hill again
into a branch of the main stream, then up this branch for a distance
of a mile or more, where I came up with him.
He had gone under the roots of a large hemlock tree, and it took me
two or three hours to get him out with nothing to work with only my
belt axe and a sharpened stake. It was nearly night when I got to
camp. I made a stretching board from a spault I split out of a
basswood log and stretched the otter skin, and put in the balance of
the day in chopping wood. One of the boys killed three deer that day.
I do not remember which one it was.
The next day I made the rounds of nearly all the traps and got what I
have many a time before--nothing. I put in three or four days still
hunting and had the luck to kill a deer or two, but Charley and Will
killed more than I did. I remember, during this time, they were all
the time joking me because they were getting more deer than I did. I
claimed that they had the best grounds to hunt on, they hunting east
of the camp and up nearer the head of the stream, while I hunted west
of the camp.
We would see bear tracks nearly every day, and Will and Charley would
try to get around in their hunting course so as to look at the two
bear traps, the traps being in the direction in which they hunted.
They found the traps undisturbed. I had about made up my mind that I
would get no more bear that trip. I was getting a marten, mink or
coon now and then, so that I kept a stiff upper lip if the boys did
kill a few deer more than I did. Finally one night when I came to
camp I found the carcass of a bear, skin and all lying at the shanty
door. I thought it was one that either Charley or Will had killed. I
found that the boys by chance had met near one of the bear traps, and
going to the trap found the bear. As it was a small one they took it
out, set the trap and brought the bear to camp.
It was now getting along in December and the snow was getting rather
deep and the weather was pretty cold and the game did not move about
very much. We all seemed to get a little lazy, and did not get out
till after noon. In fact, some days, if the weather was pretty sharp,
we did not go out at all but would stay in camp and talk of the hunt
and tell where we thought we could find a bunch of deer over in this
basin or on that ridge.
The most of the deadfalls set I had not covered so to keep the snow
off. A good many of them had snowed under, so I did not care how soon
we broke camp and went home. Deer were quite plentiful, and we could
find them nearly every day, when we would get a move on, so we
continued to stay day after day, and putting in about one-half the
time hunting and the other half telling what we would have done if
there had not been so many "ifs" in the way.
I would usually shape my course in hunting so as to come around where
some of the deadfalls were and spring them. One day I came to one
that was pretty well snowed under. I saw that a fox had done a good
deal of traveling around the trap and had dug in the snow some about
where I thought a marten would be, providing one was there. I kicked
the snow away, and to my delight and surprise I found as good a
marten as I had caught. I thanked the fox for the favor. I examined
all the traps then to make sure that there was nothing in them, but I
found no more marten.
We now began to get our venison into camp, taking turns to help each
other. I do not just remember how many deer we killed, but I think
that Charley and Will killed 15 or 16 apiece, and I killed either 11
or 12.
The boys said I had done pretty well considering the two bear and
otter, but when I went to the old elm and brought out the marten,
mink and another otter and five or six coon, the boys looked greatly
amazed and Will said, "I knew the fool was doing something besides
hunting," Charley said he thought he could smell something that
smelled like mink around the camp three or four times. I think I got
13 marten, 8 mink, 5 coon, 2 otter and 2 bears. As near as I can
remember, I got a little over a hundred dollars for the fur. I do not
remember what we got for the venison, but it was war prices. We
shipped our venison to George Herbermann, New York.
I tried to have the boys help cut a lot of wood for the next season's
hunt, but they said they were not counting chickens as far ahead as
that. They hit it right, for neither of them hunted in there. I think
Charley hunted on Hunt's Run in Cameron County, and I do not know
whether Will hunted at all the next season, but I took a partner and
went back on the Kinzua.
This time we were in "swacks," and I will try to tell what luck we
had some time, but one thing we did was to put a window in the camp
and make the door large enough so that one did not have to get down
on all fours to get in or out. Will and I stayed in camp while
Charley went out to Kane and sent in the team to take out the venison
and the furs and the camp outfit. We got home for Christmas and found
all well.