CAPTAIN SIR GEORGE S. NARES' VOYAGE WITH THE "ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY"--
1875-6.
The _Alert_ and _Discovery_--Heavy weather--Arrival in Greenland--Winter
on the ice--Amusements and employments--Sledging work--The return home--
Reception--Conclusion.
In 1875 the British Government commissioned the _Alert_ and the
_Discovery_, under the command respectively of Captains Nares and
Stephenson, to explore the Arctic regions of the Pole. This expedition
was fitted out in the most complete manner, and had the advantage of the
advice and assistance of the most experienced Arctic travellers.
Commander Markham, who was attached to the _Alert_, had crossed the
Arctic circle before, as had Captain Nares, and all that could be done
was done to make the voyage a success.
Sir George Nares had already seen considerable Arctic and sea service.
His scientific voyage in the _Challenger_, too, had given him an
unlimited fund of experience, in addition to his previous geographical
attainments. Captain H. Stephenson also had proved his mettle in many
parts of the world, and under these commanders were many trustworthy and
experienced officers. The expedition quitted Portsmouth amid
enthusiastic cheers on the 29th of May, 1875, and made their way across
the Atlantic. Here they met with most violent storms, which tried both
ships and ships' companies, as well as the _Valorous_ store ship, which
parted company in the ocean. The first ice was seen on the 27th of
June, and the _Valorous_ was picked up again all well.
Skirting the Greenland coast amid the ice, the vessels encountered heavy
weather, and at length anchored in Godhaven Harbour, in the Isle of
Disco. Here supplies and sledge dogs were embarked, and on the 15th of
July the _Alert_ towed the _Discovery_ out of harbour, and proceeded
northwards. They reached Upernavik and left it. Soon afterwards the
_Alert_ grounded, but cleared at high water. Cape York was gained in
seventy hours, an extremely rapid passage. The _Alert_ passed on by the
Crimson Cliffs and Cape Digges, which have been so often mentioned, and
reached the Cary Islands on the 27th of July. Depots were formed here
and records placed with letters, as also on Sutherland and Littleton
Islands. The advance into Smith's Sound was by no means easy, and
several times the ships had to return to the latitude of Kane's winter
quarters.
About this time the _Alert_ was nearly crushed by an iceberg, but got
clear, and the crew made the mountain tow the vessel by grappling it.
By very slow degrees, pushing and driving through the "pack," the
vessels at last reached Cape Constitution, to which Doctor Kane had
penetrated, but which he did not pass. Going still northwards the ships
cleared Kennedy Channel and reached Hall's Basin, in the north-east side
of which were the winter quarters of the unfortunate _Polaris_. Robeson
Channel had now to be cleared.
All this time the officers and men who could be spared from duty were
not idle. Parties went hunting and sketching. Many scientific
observations were made by dredging. Photographs were taken also. The
Musk ox gave the hunters some sport, and Doctor Moss records that all
the animals met with, though presumably they had never seen man before,
were afraid of the party, thus contradicting the popular notion that
animals which have never seen man are not afraid of him.
At this stage of the journey excellent winter quarters were found for
the _Discovery_. The retreat of the ships had been secured. Orders
were for the _Discovery_ to remain in or about the eighty-second
parallel. Such a situation was now found. The _Discovery_ therefore
remained just north of Lady Franklin Strait, on the opposite side of
Hall's Basin, to that on which the _Polaris_ wintered.
On the 26th of August the _Alert_ proceeded alone into Robeson Channel,
but got into difficulties with the ice, which bore down on the ship in
tremendous masses. But fortunately she found shelter, and escaped
destruction. Any further progress appeared impossible, so preparations
were made for forming the winter quarters near at hand. As September
had come the sledges were got ready, and Commander Markham set out with
stores to establish a depot for the spring exploring parties farther
north. The party returned in three weeks frost-bitten and exhausted,
but they had accomplished their mission. Lieutenant Aldrich had also
come back, but reported nothing but ice.
Attempts were made to communicate with the _Discovery_, but the state of
the ice and snow prevented any such adventure, though Captain Stephenson
was only sixty miles distant. Winter now set in, and the _Alert_ was
banked in snow. Candles and stoves and snow kept the inhabitants warm,
and snow-houses were erected for scientific and storage purposes. The
prospect afforded a view of limitless snow, and then darkness set in and
limited the view to a few yards, except when the oft-recurring moon gave
her welcome light. Doctor Moss, in his journal, gives a spirited
description of the daily routine, which we condense. The cold was
intense--the greatest ever experienced (73 degrees).
The toilet is rapidly performed, a tub is a weekly luxury. The men have
breakfasted, and the rattling of cups and saucers warns the officers
curried-sardine day has come round again! Cocoa is ready and hot rolls.
Then the men have lime-juice and hot water for health's sake.
Afterwards all hands parade on deck for inspection and prayers. Then
work begins. Water is procured from ice, tools mended, etcetera. The
crew dine at one o'clock, the officers at 2:30. The latter go for a
walk or rehearse theatricals. Going out, the air smells like green
walnuts, says Doctor Moss. The walk, unless there is a moon, is taken
up and down a beaten track, in the dark, half a mile long. The dinner
gong sounds, all come in (brushing off the snow first). Then dinner,
and when the cloth is off the white cat seats herself on the table.
After dinner reading or writing, then school for the men; and music,
chess or whist concluding the evening.
The _Alert_ had no sun for a hundred and forty-two days, and the
darkness was nearly as deep at noonday as an ordinary moonless night in
England. On the 2nd of March the sun shone brightly, and the sledging
was arranged for. The theatrical season had ended on the 24th of
February. Many favourite farces were played, and the burlesque written
by the chaplain met with great success.
A sledge party left to find the _Discovery_, but returned exhausted, and
Petersen was nearly lost. He afterwards died, poor fellow, and was
buried by his comrades on Cairn Hill, on the 14th of May. We have not
space to follow all the sledging expeditions. We must condense the
information and the interest. For two months and a half this, the most
monotonous of all travelling, was continued. The labour was most severe
and incessant, the distance made only a mile or two a day. Scurvy began
its ravages, and the northern expedition had been nearly overcome, when
Lieutenant Parr returned to the ship for assistance. Summer had arrived
by this time. Immediate help was dispatched, but it was no easy task to
find the men. Four of the party were alive, one had died. The sick man
had been dragged on the sledge thirty-nine days, and they had buried him
after all in a solitary spot in the far north--"a paddle and a batten"
made a rude cross, and the sketch shows it most effectively in Doctor
Moss's book. Five only of the seventeen of the party came back in
working condition, and they were nearly exhausted.
The question now arose whether the _Alert_ should remain, advance, or
retreat. It was impossible to advance more than a few miles--the crew
was suffering--and retirement was the most sensible act. So the vessel
rejoined the _Discovery_, some of whose men had not returned, and great
anxiety was manifested concerning them. At length the party appeared,
after an absence of one hundred and thirty days.
From Discovery Bay they struggled south in company, racing against
winter. On the 9th of September Cape Isabella (Smith's Sound) came in
sight. Here letters were found which had been left by the _Pandora_.
These were a cause of great joy, and when Disco was reached, and some
coal procured, the explorers felt almost at home. On the 2nd of October
the ships sailed for England. The _Alert_ anchored at Valentia on the
27th of October, and the _Discovery_ in Bantry Bay on the 29th.
A great deal had been accomplished by this expedition. The _Alert_ had
explored the west coast for two hundred and twenty miles, the
_Discovery_ had surveyed the Greenland coast, and Captain Stephenson
placed a tablet over the grave of the brave Captain Hall of the
_Polaris_, with a suitable inscription. The _Alert_ men had attained
the highest latitude ever reached, viz, 82 degrees 27 minutes North.
The idea of the open Polar Sea then received its "quietus," for nothing
but ice is there.
The Queen commanded the Admiralty to thank Captain Nares and the
officers and men under his command, and Captain Nares was knighted.
Some little dissatisfaction was expressed, but the effects of the work
so ably done quickly extinguished any hostile feeling.
In concluding these Notable (Polar) Voyages we regret we cannot find
space to relate the adventures of the plucky _Pandora_ (afterwards the
_Jeannette_), the _Eira_ expedition, and others of less importance which
have been undertaken since 1875. The _Alert_ has lately been presented
to the United States Government for their Arctic expedition, of which we
shall soon hear something.
There are many chapters yet to be written concerning maritime discovery,
but those we have selected appear to us to embody the greatest interest
for our readers, for public curiosity and assistance has been lately so
often directed to the Arctic which are slowly yielding their secrets to
the enterprise of modern scientific and naval explorers.