Ancient voyagers in arctic seas--Parry's voyage in command of the
_Alexander_--Under Captain John Ross--Parry's first expedition with the
_Hecla_ and _Griper_--The ice reached--Danger among icebergs--The
vessels freed--Steer westward--A way cut through the ice--Enter
Lancaster Sound--Sail up it till stopped by the ice--Reach longitude 110
degrees west--A passage cut through the ice into a harbour in Melville
Island--Preparations for passing the winter--A paper established--Plays
acted--An observatory and house built on shore--The former catches
fire--Many of the men frost-bitten while extinguishing the flames--All
animals quit the country--Scurvy appears--Mustard and cress grown--
Employments of officers and men--Excursions on shore--Ice begins to
break up--Get out of harbour--Attempt to sail westward defeated--
Return--Parry's second expedition with _Fury_ and _Hecla_ in 1821 to
Hudson's Bay--Dangers among icebergs and floes--Visited by Esquimaux--
Fox's Channel and Repulse Bay reached--Further explorations made--No
opening found--More natives appear--Ships frozen in near Lyon Inlet--
Plays acted--A school established--Natives come on board--Native
village--Honesty and intelligence of natives--A clever woman--Iliglink
and her son--The Esquimaux leave them--Ships again put to sea--In
fearful danger--Fury and Hecla Strait reached--Attempt to pass through
it--Go into winter quarters--Natives appear--Winter less pleasantly
spent than the former--Great difficulty in escaping--Parry's wish to
remain overruled--Ships swept along by the current--Sail homewards--
Reception at Lerwick--Parry's third voyage in the _Hecla_ and _Fury_,
1824--Accompanied by the _William Harris_ transport--Call off Lievely--
Reach Lancaster Sound--Are frozen up in Port Eowen--Masquerades--Good
conduct of the men--Progress in the school--Expedition on shore--Ships
get out of harbour--In fearful danger--The _Fury_ wrecked and
abandoned--The _Hecla_ refitted, sails homeward, and safely reaches
England--Remarks on Admiral Sir Edward Parry.
From the days of Edward the Sixth, and even before that period, attempts
have been made to discover a passage eastward along the northern shores
of Europe and Asia to India from the westward, and from the Atlantic
into the Pacific, as well as to reach the north pole.
Among the gallant men who commanded these expeditions the names of Sir
Hugh Willoughby, Richard Chancellor, Sir Martin Frobisher, Barentz,
Henry Hudson, and Baffin stand out pre-eminently. Captain Cook, as we
have seen, made attempts to penetrate from the Pacific into the
Atlantic, and at the same time Captain Phipps, afterwards Lord Mulgrave,
accompanied by Nelson, then a midshipman, was engaged in an attempt to
reach the north pole along the coast of Spitzbergen. For some time
after this the interest in arctic discovery died away, but was at length
revived in the year 1818 by the reports of the state of the ice, which
was said to have broken away from the coast of Greenland in places where
it had been attached to the shore for centuries. In that year four
ships were fitted out--two, the _Isabella_, commanded by Captain John
Ross, and the _Alexander_ by Lieutenant Parry, to explore the north-west
passage, and the _Dorothea_, commanded by Captain Buchan, and the
_Trent_, by Lieutenant John Franklin,--for the purpose of attempting to
reach the north pole. Many of the officers who subsequently became well
known as arctic explorers were employed in these expeditions; among
others were Mr Beechy and Mr Hoppner, both sons of eminent artists,
and themselves excellent draughtsmen.
Neither of the expeditions was successful. Captain Ross sailed up
Davis's Straits into Baffin's Bay, passing the entrances to Smith's and
Lancaster Sounds, across both of which he was persuaded that a lofty
range of mountains extended. These he called Crocker Mountains. The
openings, he was convinced, were merely the mouths of deep inlets.
Lieutenant Parry differed entirely from his commanding officer, and deep
regret was expressed by many on board that an opening, by examining
which important discoveries might have resulted, should have been
abruptly quitted.
The reports brought home satisfied most scientific men that an opening
existed through Lancaster Sound. On the following year, therefore, the
Admiralty fitted out an expedition, which was placed under the command
of Lieutenant Parry, who had Mr Beechy as his lieutenant.
As Parry takes the highest rank amongst arctic explorers, it is proposed
to give a sketch of his three voyages to the polar regions in search of
a north-west passage.
The expedition being determined on, two vessels, the _Hecla_, of three
hundred and seventy-five tons, carrying fifty-eight men, and the
_Griper_, a gun brig of one hundred and eighty tons, with thirty-six
persons on board, were forthwith got ready for sea. Both vessels were
strengthened as much as possible, and stored with provisions for two
years, including an ample supply of anti-scorbutics, and everything
which could be thought of to enable the crews to endure the extreme
rigours of a polar winter. Captain Sabine accompanied Lieutenant Parry
as astronomer, and Mr Beechy as lieutenant. Among the midshipmen were
Joseph Nias and James Clark Ross, who became eminent arctic explorers.
The _Griper_ was commanded by Lieutenant Siddon, and his first
lieutenant was Mr Hoppner.
The two vessels sailed from the Nore on the 11th of May, 1819, and
having rounded the Orkneys, stood across the Atlantic. Having contrary
winds, they made but slow progress. On the 18th of June they first fell
in with icebergs, flying amid which were numberless petrels, kittiwakes,
tarns, and other winged inhabitants of the northern regions. Some of
these bergs, of which fifty were seen at a time, were of great size.
The heavy southern swell dashed the loose ice with tremendous force
against them, sometimes raising a cloud of white spray, which broke over
their tops to the height of more than a hundred feet, accompanied by a
loud noise, resembling distant thunder. As the _Hecla_ was drifting on
with a southerly current, she was nearly nipped by a detached floe,
which drove her against a berg aground, one hundred and forty feet high,
where the depth of water was one hundred and twenty fathoms, so that its
whole height must have exceeded eight hundred feet.
Parry at first attempted to force his way north and west, amid the
masses of ice, in the direction of Lancaster Sound; but as the vessels
were sailing on, the floes suddenly closed round them, and on the 25th
both were so completely beset that it was impossible to turn their heads
in any direction. Here they were fixed, though in no danger, until the
morning of the second day, when the violence of the sea loosening the
ice, it was driven against the ships' sides with such force that, had
they not been strongly built, they would probably have been destroyed.
At this time, from the crow's nest, upwards of eighty-eight enormous
icebergs were seen, besides many smaller ones. The vessels being at
length freed, Lieutenant Parry came to the resolution of abandoning the
attempt to reach Lancaster Sound by a direct course, and instead steered
northward along the border of the great ice-field, in the hopes of
finding open water farther to the north. He steered on that course
until he reached latitude 73 degrees, when he resolved upon making a
determined push to the westward.
A favourable breeze springing up, the ships stood on among the detached
floes, through which they were warped by securing ice-anchors with
hawsers to the more solid pieces ahead. Before they had made much
progress, a thick fog came on, which prevented the open lanes ahead
being seen. Still they continued to make way, sometimes dangerously
beset by masses of ice; yet by persevering efforts, they first got into
one lane, then into another, till, the fog clearing, they saw only one
long floe separating them from the open sea. The ice-saws were
therefore set to work, and with great labour cutting through the floe,
they had the satisfaction of seeing the shore clear of ice extending out
before them. They now steered for Lancaster Sound, and on the 30th of
July they gained its entrance. As they sailed on, under a press of
canvas, westward, the mast-heads were crowded by officers and men,
eagerly looking out to ascertain if the supposed mountain barrier lay
across their course.
The sound continued open, and it was calculated that the two shores were
still thirteen leagues apart, without the slightest appearance of land
to the westward.
Again and again a report was received from aloft that all was clear
ahead, and the explorers began to flatter themselves that they had
fairly entered the polar sea. Several headlands were passed, and wide
openings to the north and south. With a strong breeze from the
eastward, running on until midnight, they found themselves in latitude
83 degrees 12 minutes, nearly one hundred and fifty miles from the
entrance of the sound, which was fully fifty miles in breadth. The
_Griper_, which had fallen astern, joining the _Hecla_, they together
reached latitude 86 degrees 30 minutes, when two other inlets were
discovered, and named Burnet and Stratton; and then a bold headland, to
which the name of Fellfoot was given. A lengthened swell rolling in
from the north and west, gave them hopes that they had now really
reached the wide expanse of the polar basin, and that nothing would stop
their progress to Icy Cape, the western boundary of America.
While their hopes were at the highest land ahead was seen, but it proved
only to be a small island. Very soon afterwards more land was seen,
with a broad inlet, named Maxwell Bay. Still the sea stretched out
uninterruptedly before them, but their hopes fell when, in a short time,
they saw to the south a line of continuous ice.
Shortly afterwards an open passage appeared, through which it was hoped
the ships would make their way westward. On proceeding on, however, the
explorers discovered, to their sorrow, that this ice was joined to a
compact and impenetrable body of floes, completely crossing the channel.
They had therefore to haul their wind and stand away from it, for fear
of being caught in the ice, along the edges of which a violent surf was
beating.
As soon as the weather, which had been thick, became clear, an open sea,
with a dark water sky, was seen to the south. In the hopes that this
might lead to a passage, unencumbered with ice, the commander steered
for it, and shortly reached the mouth of a large inlet, ten leagues
broad, with no visible termination. The names of Clarence and Seppings
were given to the two capes at its entrance.
Avoiding the ice on one side, the ships entered a broad open channel.
The coast was dreary in the extreme, while the irregularity of the
compass showed that they were approaching the magnetic pole, and
increased the difficulties of navigation. They had run one hundred and
twenty miles up this inlet, to which the name of Prince Regent was
given, when the ice was found extending across it. Standing out of it,
Parry steered across the channel, until he came off another broad inlet,
leading north, which was called Wellington Inlet.
The great channel through which they were passing was called Barrow
Straits, in compliment to the promoter of the expedition. The wind
again becoming favourable, the ship sailed triumphantly along; three
islands they successively passed being named Cornwallis, Bathurst, Byam
Martin. The compass had now become perfectly useless, and they judged
that they had passed the magnetic meridian at about 100 degrees west
latitude, where it would have pointed due south instead of north. The
cold also greatly increased, and thick fogs enveloped them. They had
also to saw a passage through a thick floe.
Still forcing their way on, they discovered a large island, to which the
name of Melville was given. Though the wind failed, by towing and
warping, on the 4th of September they reached the meridian of 110
degrees west from Greenwich, in latitude 74 degrees 44 minutes 20
seconds, and became entitled to a reward of five thousand pounds, voted
by Parliament to the first British ship's company who should obtain that
meridian. To the bluff headland where the observation was made the
appropriate name of Bounty Cape was given.
Encouraged by their success, they continued their course, until it was
crossed by an impenetrable barrier of ice. In vain for a fortnight they
attempted to pierce it, until about the 20th the young ice began to form
rapidly on the surface, and Parry was convinced that a single hour's
calm would be sufficient to freeze up the ships in the midst of the sea.
Reluctantly, therefore, he was compelled to return, not without
encountering great danger and difficulty. On the 24th he got off a
harbour on the western side of Melville Island. A large floe, two miles
wide, guarded its entrance. To get through this floe, it was necessary
to form a channel with the ice-saws. To do this two parallel lines were
first marked with boarding-pikes on the ice, at a distance from each
other of somewhat more than the breadth of the _Hecla_. Having cut
along these lines, large pieces were detached by cross-saws, and then
again cut diagonally, in order to be floated out. Sometimes the boat's
masts and sails were placed on them to hasten their movements. In two
days the channel was cut, and the ships carried in and anchored in five
fathoms of water, about a cable's length from the beach. At first the
ice round them was every morning cleared away, but it was soon found
that the task was useless, and the two ships became frozen up for the
winter. They were immediately unrigged and housed over, snow walls
built round them, and other plans adopted for keeping out the cold.
As they had ample provisions, preserved meat and concentrated soup were
substituted for salt beef, and beer and wine were served out instead of
spirits. They also had sour-krout, pickles, and vinegar. Every day the
seamen were mustered and compelled to swallow a certain quantity of
lime-juice in the presence of their officers, while their gums and shins
were examined to detect the first appearance of scurvy. The stove for
baking was placed in a central position, and by other arrangements a
comfortable temperature was maintained in the cabin. At a distance from
it, however, and in the bed-places, steam and even the breath soon
turned into ice, which had to be carefully scraped away. To amuse the
people, a newspaper was started, under the editorship of Captain Sabine,
and a school was established, at which many of the men, who had never
before handled a pen, learned to write well. Plays were acted, a fresh
one being performed every fortnight, sometimes by the officers, and
sometimes by the men. The theatre was on the quarter-deck, where,
however, the cold was often as low as freezing-point, except close to
the stove,--a position eagerly sought for.
Lieutenant Beechy became stage manager. The theatre received the name
of the North Georgian, and was opened on the 5th of November, with "Miss
in her Teens." The ships' companies were highly delighted, and
Lieutenant Parry took a part himself, considering that an example of
cheerfulness, by giving a direct countenance to everything that could
contribute to it, was not the less essential part of his duty, under the
peculiar circumstances in which they were placed.
It was by this means that Parry established a character for ready and
happy expedients, accompanied by a sound judgment, which kept alive the
active powers of the mind, and prevented it from falling into the worst
of all conditions,--a state of morbid torpor. His plan was completely
successful, and the crew, as well as the officers, were as happy as,
under the circumstances, could possibly be expected.
One of the first works carried out, after the ships had been made snug
for the winter, was the erection of an observatory, at a spot convenient
for communication with the ships; and a house was also built on the
beach, for the reception of the clock and other instruments. The walls
of this were of double plank, with moss between, so that a high
temperature could be kept up in it, without difficulty, by a single
stove. To induce the men to take exercise, the band played, and they
tramped round the deck to the music. While thus engaged, one day, what
was their dismay to see the house containing the valuable instruments on
fire! The crew, without stopping to put on their extra warm clothing,
hurried to the shore, pulled off the roof with ropes, knocked down a
part of the sides, and, by being thus able to throw in large quantities
of snow, succeeded in extinguishing the flames. So bitter was the cold
that, though thus actively employed, the noses and cheeks of all the men
were white by frostbites. The medical officers were compelled to run
from one to the other and rub them with snow, in order to restore
animation; even thus it was found necessary to cut off several fingers
of one poor fellow, and sixteen others were added to the sick list.
Hunting excursions were organised, and reindeer, musk oxen, partridges,
and ptarmigan were met with. Some of the former were killed. No bears
had been seen, until one day Captain Sabine's servant being at a
distance from the ship, a huge white monster started up and pursued him.
The man ran as fast as his legs could carry him, until he got on board,
when the bear, coming close to the ship, was shot at and wounded, but
notwithstanding made its escape. It was the only one seen during the
long stay of the ships on that desolate shore. The animal tribes
disappeared early in the winter. On the 15th of September a herd of
deer was seen lying down, except a large stag. This, after the rest had
risen, guarded the herd in their flight, frequently going round them,
sometimes striking them with his horns to make them move faster.
On the same day the last covey of ptarmigan was met with. What no one
would have expected to see in that frozen region--three specimens of a
caterpillar were obtained one of which, as an arctic curiosity, was
brought to England.
For some months the crew retained excellent health, but early in January
the gunner showed symptoms which indicated scurvy. The immediate cause
appeared to be a collection of damp which had formed round his
bed-place. At once all the anti-scorbutics were put into requisition,
such as lime-juice, pickles, spruce beer; a quantity of mustard and
cress had also been raised from mould placed over the stove-pipe, which
rapidly grew. So successful were these remedies that, in nine days, the
patient could walk about. The only animals remaining were a pack of
wolves, which nightly surrounded the ships, although they cleverly
avoided being captured. A beautiful white fox, however, was caught and
made a pet of, and became very much attached to the commander, in whose
cabin it took up its quarters. Every day, indeed every hour, had its
allotted duties. On Sundays divine service was invariably performed,
and a sermon read on board both ships, the men attending with evident
satisfaction. The officers, unless when there was wind, took walks on
shore, but were not permitted to go beyond two miles from the ship.
After the ordinary duties of examining the berths and bed-places, the
crews had their suppers, and the officers went to their tea, and after
this the men were allowed to amuse themselves with games of various
kinds, as well as dancing and singing, until nine o'clock, when they had
to turn in, and all lights were extinguished. The officers employed
their evenings in reading and writing, with an occasional game of chess,
or a tune on the flute or violin, until half-past ten.
For forty-eight days they were entirely deprived of a sight of the sun,
the long-continued night being lighted up only partially by the moon and
occasionally by the aurora borealis. Thus the months went by until the
middle of May arrived, and the ptarmigan began to appear. A
considerable number were shot, their flesh having a beneficial effect on
the crew. Under the snow was found an abundance of sorrel, a most
potent antidote against scurvy. Footsteps of deer were seen, the
animals evidently moving northwards. As soon as the cold decreased, the
commander made an excursion across Melville Island, on which the
vegetable productions were dwarf willow, sorrel, moss, grass, and
saxifrage.
Captain Sabine fell in with a ranunculus in full flower on the western
side of the island, evidently the most genial. The crew had in the
meantime been employed in cutting away the ice from round the ships.
Soon after the commander's return, on the 15th of June, from his
excursion, the ice in the offing began to move with a loud grinding
noise, and by the middle of July the thermometer rose to 60 degrees, the
highest point it reached in Melville Island. By the 24th everything was
ready for sea, but still it seemed very probable that the two ships
would be much longer detained, while it was known that in eight or nine
weeks from that period the navigable season must come to a conclusion.
Before the expiration of July the thermometer again fell, and the pools
of water froze over in the night, but there were channels through which
the boats could pass. On the ist of August, however, the outer mass of
ice suddenly broke up and floated out. With eager haste the anchors
were weighed, the sails spread, and the two ships, after being shut up
for ten whole months and a part of September, sailed out of Winter
Harbour, and stood round the shore of Melville Sound. They were still
not free from danger, as the masses of ice were whirling about in all
directions. To avoid them the ships stood close into the shore, but at
length, off a point of land surrounded by hummocks of ice, some vast
masses were seen driving down upon the _Hecla_. The _Griper_ was in the
same dangerous predicament, and there appeared every probability that
she would be nipped and destroyed. Escaping these dangers, they pushed
their way westward until they arrived at very nearly the most western
point of the island, when all further progress was barred by the density
of the ice.
The commander having consulted the officers of both ships, it was agreed
that any further attempt to proceed in that direction would be useless.
It was also arranged that they should run back along the edge of the
ice, to look out for any opening which might lead them to the American
continent. None, however, was found, and on the 31st of August they
repassed Lancaster Sound.
They now, not without some risk of being frozen up after all, made their
way to the southward, and on the 28th of October came in sight of Fair
Island and the Orkneys.
The commander reached London on the 3rd of November, 1820, after an
absence of eighteen months. Out of both ships' companies only one man,
who had left home in ill health, died; the rest returned in excellent
health and strength.
Scarcely had Captain Parry returned than it was resolved to fit out
another expedition without delay. For this purpose the _Hecla_ was
again commissioned, and as it was considered that vessels of the same
size were best calculated for the work, the _Fury_, of three hundred and
seventy-seven tons, was appointed to accompany her instead of the old
_Griper_.
Several of the officers who had served in the former voyage were again
employed, and Commander Lyon was appointed to the command of the
_Hecla_, while Commander Parry took charge of the _Fiery_. Among the
midshipmen were F.R.M. Crozier and James Clarke Ross, both of whom were
arctic explorers of note, the former ultimately destined to perish in
the realms of ice.
The two ships were accompanied by the _Nautilus_ transport, filled with
stores and provisions, to be transhipped on arriving at the ice.
Parry was directed to proceed towards or into Hudson's Straits. He was
then to penetrate to the westward until he should reach Repulse Bay, or
some other part of the shores of Hudson's Bay to the north of Wager
River, or some portion of the coast which he should feel convinced to be
a part of America. Failing this, he was to keep along the line of this
coast to the northward, examining every bend or inlet which should
appear likely to afford a practicable passage to the westward.
The three ships sailed from the Nore on the 8th of May, 1821, but it was
not until the 14th of June that they came in sight of the first iceberg,
or until the 2nd of July that they reached Resolution Island, the
valleys of which were filled with snow, while a dense fog hung over the
land, rendering the scene before them indescribably dreary and desolate.
In a short time the ships were surrounded by no less than six hundred
and fifty-four icebergs, one of which rose to two hundred and
fifty-eight feet above the sea. Among them were large floes, which were
turned round and round by the strong tides and currents rushing in from
the ocean. At the same time, fearful as they are in appearance, they
are less dangerous to approach than those aground, against which a ship
is liable to be carried with the whole force of the tide.
Captain Lyon, on one occasion, having fixed an anchor to a mass of ice
with two strong hawsers, both were carried away, and the anchor broken
off as if it had been made of crockeryware. The ships were here
separated to the distance of eleven or twelve miles, and became closely
beset by the ice, where they remained for eight or nine days. During
nineteen days only seventy miles were made. At length they reached, on
the 21st, the Savage Islands. Next afternoon a loud shouting was heard,
and shortly afterwards a large number of natives were seen paddling
their canoes through the lanes of open water, or occasionally drawing
them over the ice. These were chiefly kayaks, rowed by a single man.
There were also five oomiaks or women's boats, of considerable size,
formed of a framework of wood and whalebone, covered with deer-skins,
and having flat sides and bottom. One of these contained no less than
twenty-one women, boys, and young children. They were of a wild tribe,
and evidently more debased than those of the Greenland shore. They
laughed, and shouted, and skipped, and then commenced traffic with the
greatest eagerness, some of them stripping off the skins which formed
their only covering, until they were almost in a state of nudity; the
women, however, always retaining their breeches. They drove, as they
fancied, a hard bargain; yet, being ignorant of the value of the skins,
they raised shouts of triumph when they exchanged them for a nail, saw,
or razor. Hideous as were the old women, some of the children looked
almost pretty, although, being thrown carelessly into the bottom of the
boat, they more resembled young wild animals than human beings. The men
were especially addicted to practical jokes. One of them, getting
behind a sailor, shouted lustily in his ear, then gave him a hearty box
on the other. Captain Parry formed a very unfavourable opinion of the
moral character of these natives, who seemed to have acquired, by an
annual intercourse with our ships for nearly a hundred years, many of
the vices of civilisation, without having imbibed any of the virtues or
refinements which adorn it. Notwithstanding all obstructions, the
expedition, early in August, came in view of Southampton Island, at the
entrance of Fox's Channel, and from thence forced its way to Repulse
Bay, through which it was supposed that a passage westward existed; but,
after it had been thoroughly explored, Captain Parry proved that the
land round it was continuous. The appearance of the land was not
altogether uninviting. It rose to seven or eight hundred feet, and
there was the usual vegetation found in the arctic regions. Reindeer
and hares were plentiful, as were ducks and other birds. In one spot
were the remains of no less than sixty Esquimaux habitations, consisting
of stones laid one over the other, in regular circles, eight or nine
feet in diameter. There were besides about a hundred structures,--
fireplaces, store-houses, and other rough enclosures, four or five feet
high,--used to keep their skin canoes from being gnawed by the dogs.
Getting out of Repulse Bay, Captain Parry commenced a career of
discovery along an unknown coast. An inlet was discovered, on which the
name of Gore was bestowed. At the mouth of the opening the valleys were
richly clad with grass and mosses. The birds were singing, the
butterflies and other insects displaying the most gaudy tints; so that
the seamen might have fancied themselves in some happier clime, had not
the mighty piles of ice in the frozen strait told a different tale.
While the ships were at anchor, hunting parties were sent out, and the
game laws of the preceding year were strictly enforced, by which every
beast and bird was to be given up for the general good, the capturer
only retaining the head and legs. The head, however, was sometimes
greatly extended, so as to include several joints of the back-bone. At
length the explorers found themselves among a complete labyrinth of
islands, amidst which strong currents set in various directions, while
fogs and drift ice made navigation perilous in the extreme. Successive
masses assailed the _Fury_. At one time her anchor was dragged along
with a grinding noise, two flukes being broken off. She was afterwards
carried forward by a violent stream amid thick mist, while it was found
impossible to steer her in any direction.
At length the ships emerged into the open sea, but a strong northerly
gale compelled them to run before it, when, on the 6th of August, they
found themselves close to the spot where they had been on the 3rd of
September. Still Captain Parry persevered, examining every opening, in
the hopes that each might prove a passage into the polar ocean.
Lyon and Hoppner Inlets were surveyed. When near the shore, a number of
Esquimaux came off to obtain some iron tools. The behaviour of one of
the fair sex created considerable surprise. She had sold one boot, but
obstinately retained the other. At length the suspicions of the seamen
being aroused, she was seized and the buskin pulled off, when it proved
to be a receptacle of stolen treasure. Besides other articles, it
contained a pewter plate and a couple of spoons.
The end of September was now approaching. The summer was far from
genial, and now, at any moment, the icy hand of winter might grasp the
ships. Pancake ice began to form on the surface of the ocean. As the
ships rolled from side to side, the ice clung to them in vast masses,
and the various pieces which were tossing in the sea around became
cemented into one great field, which threatened every moment to bear
down upon them and dash them to pieces.
As it was important, without delay, to secure the ships for the winter,
a small island lying off the northern point of the entrance into Lyon
Inlet was fixed on. The distance was about half a mile, but the soft
state of the pancake ice rendered the task not a very laborious one,
though often dangerous, as it bent like leather beneath the feet of the
seamen as they were working. At length it was accomplished, and the two
ships were frozen in for another winter.
As there was no time to be lost, arrangements were at once made for
passing it comfortably. Both ships were more thoroughly heated than had
been the case on the previous voyage. They were both more amply
provisioned, and anti-scorbutics against scurvy had been more
bountifully supplied.
To amuse them, the theatre was opened on the 9th of November. The play
of "The Rivals" being chosen, the two captains appeared as _Sir Anthony_
and _Captain Absolute_.
A school was also established, and it was interesting to observe the
zeal with which the hardy tars applied themselves to their books.
Sixteen of the men who had before been unable to form a letter could by
Christinas write very well. That day was passed with the usual
festivities, the seamen being amply regaled with fresh beef, cranberry
pies, and grog, when they drank, with three hearty cheers, the health of
each officer in succession. The shortest day was scarcely observed;
indeed, the sun did not entirely leave them.
A few hares were caught, with a purely white covering, which resembled
swans'-down rather than hair, and about a hundred white foxes were
snared in the nets. At first they were perfectly ungovernable, but in a
short time the young ones threw off their timidity, and became tame.
The sky was frequently brilliantly lighted by the _aurora borealis_.
The light had a tendency to form an irregular arch, which in calm
weather was very distinct. When the air became agitated, showers of
rays spread in every direction with the rapidity of lightning.
Sometimes long streams of light were spread out with inconceivable
swiftness. No rule could be traced in the movement of the light parcels
which are called the "merry dancers." The sun and moon were often
surrounded with haloes and concentric circles of vapour, tinted with the
brightest hues of the rainbow. Parhelia, or mock suns, frequently shone
in different quarters of the firmament. Still the life the explorers
were compelled to lead was becoming very monotonous, when, on the
morning of the ist of February, a number of figures were seen in the
distance, moving over the ice. The spy-glasses were turned towards
them, and they were pronounced to be Esquimaux.
As it was important to establish friendly relations with these people,
the two commanders, attended by a few men, proceeded towards them,
walking in file behind each other, that they might cause no alarm. As
the natives approached, they formed themselves into a line of
twenty-one; then they advanced slowly, until, making a full stop, they
saluted the English by the usual movement of beating their breasts.
They were well clothed in rich deer-skins. On coming to the ships they
immediately began to strip; and the females, finding that they could
obtain knives, nails, and needles for their dresses, pulled them off,
when it was discovered that they had others of a similar character
beneath the outer ones.
A visit to their village, at their invitation, was paid; but at first no
one could discover their habitations. They, however, led the way to a
hill in the snow, through which they crept, on hands and knees, along a
winding passage of considerable length, until they reached a little hall
with a dome-shaped roof, the doors of which opened into three
apartments, each occupied by a separate family. This curious structure
was tenanted by sixty-four men, women, and children. It was formed
entirely of slabs of snow, about two feet long and half a foot thick.
On the outside a series of cupolas rose about seven feet above the
ground, and were sixteen feet in diameter. A plate of ice in the roof
served as a window.
When first seen the village appeared like a cluster of hillocks among
the snow; but successive falls filled up the intervening spaces, and
converted it into one smooth surface, so that the boys and dogs were
seen sporting over the roof. In each room, suspended from the roof, a
lamp was burning, with a long wick formed from a species of moss, the
oil being the produce of the seal or walrus. This lamp served at once
for light, heat, and cooking.
A few hours had been sufficient to put up the village. The natives were
as desirous of pleasing as they were ready to be pleased, and a
favourable impression was thus made at the first interview, which was
not diminished during a constant intercourse of between three and four
months. They were strictly honest, and frequently returned articles
which had been dropped by accident.
During a visit to the _Hecla_, the fiddler having struck up a tune,
these merry people danced with the seamen for an hour, and then returned
in high glee to their huts. They were highly delighted with the tones
of the organ, as with the songs of the seamen and music of every
description. They were very ingenious in employing such materials as
they had at their disposal. A sledge being required to carry a lad to
some distance, one of them set to work, and in a short time cut out of
ice a serviceable little sledge, hollowed like a bowl, and smoothly
rounded at the bottom. The thong to which the dogs were secured was
fixed to a groove cut round its upper edge. Among the women was one
named Iliglink, the mother of a lad called Toolooak, who had frequently
come on board. She was a superior person, of great natural talent. Her
voice was soft; she had an excellent ear for music, and a great fondness
for singing. It was somewhat difficult, indeed, when she once began, to
stop her. She made beautiful models of canoes, sledges, and other
articles; but she showed her superior intelligence by the readiness with
which she communicated her knowledge of the geographical outline of the
sea-coast of the country and of the islands. Several sheets of paper
were placed before her, and she drew roughly, on a large scale, an
outline of the land about Repulse Bay and Lyon Inlet, continuing it
northerly to the present winter station of the ships. Sheet after sheet
was tacked on until she had completely lost sight of Winter Island, at
the other end of the table. She afterwards drew, on a smaller scale,
with wonderful accuracy, a chart embracing a much wider extent of coast.
With intense interest it was found that she drew the extreme northern
boundary of America, or rather its north-east extremity, round which
Captain Parry had received instructions to proceed, if possible.
The armourer's forge especially attracted her attention, and she
expressed great astonishment at seeing two pieces of iron welded
together. She was rather spoiled, however, by the attention paid her,
and seemed to claim as a right her privilege of coming on board whenever
she pleased.
Early in April some of the tribe deserted their habitations, proceeding
to the westward in search of food, and at the end of May the whole party
announced that they were about to migrate to the northward. On
receiving what they considered the most valuable presents from the
commander, the women broke into such immoderate fits of laughter as to
be almost hysterical, finishing by bursting into tears.
The men were thankful, but less noisy in expressing their satisfaction.
As these good-humoured and very cheerful people took their departure,
they greeted the voyagers with three cheers, in true English style.
While preparations were being made for sailing three deaths occurred,
two on board the _Fury_, and one seaman of the _Hecla_.
On the 2nd of July the ships moved out of their winter quarters, but
they did not put to sea until the 8th. They were almost immediately
exposed to most terrific danger, being driven along the ice at a furious
rate, frequently almost nipped by it. At one time the _Hecla's_ stern
was lifted more than five feet out of the water, and her rudder unslung
by a violent jerk. Had another floe backed the one which lifted her,
the ship must inevitably have turned over or parted amidships.
Providentially she righted, and drove several miles to the southward
before her rudder could be again slung. The _Fury_ was exposed to
almost equal peril of destruction. By long and unremitting
perseverance, and by taking advantage of every opening and breeze of
wind, the ships moved to the northward as far as latitude 67 degrees 18
minutes, to the mouth of a fresh water river. The boats were lowered,
and parties landed and proceeded up the banks of the river, where, at
about two and a quarter miles from the entrance, they found a fine
waterfall, the scenery being romantic and beautiful in the extreme. It
was named Barrow, after the Secretary of the Admiralty. Its beauties
were enhanced by the vegetation on its banks, the enlivening brilliancy
of a cloudless sky, and the animation given to the scene by several
reindeer, which were grazing beside the stream.
On the 14th of July the ships reached the island of Amitiske, which by
Iliglink's chart appeared near the strait which they had reason to
believe would conduct them to the polar sea. Here they saw an enormous
herd of walruses, lying piled up over each other on the loose drift ice.
A boat's crew from each ship was sent to attack them, but the animals--
some with their cubs on their backs,--making a most determined
resistance, kept their assailants at bay. One of them, rushing forward,
tore the planks of a boat in several places, and very nearly sank her.
Three only were killed.
Sailing on, a strait was seen stretching westward in long perspective;
but the hopes of the explorers were soon disappointed, when the ice was
discovered extending in one unbroken line across it, from shore to
shore.
This passage was named Fury and Hecla Strait. Hoping ultimately,
however, to force the ships through, Parry made an expedition along the
surface of the strait, and from an elevation saw a wide passage opening
out to the west, inducing him to believe that he saw before him the
polar sea. Scarcely, however, had he returned when the ice began to
break in rents and fissures, and, soon entirely disappearing, the
vessels floated in open water. With a brisk breeze he stood on, but at
the end of five days it was announced from the crow's nest that ice in a
continuous field occupied the whole breadth of the channel. On
examining it, however, it was found to be rotten, and the captain,
therefore, determined to try and force the ships through it. With all
canvas set, they had proceeded three or four hundred yards, when they
stuck, and, in spite of all their efforts, were unable to make the
slightest advance during the remainder of the season. With the greatest
difficulty they were at length extricated, and proceeded to the
neighbouring harbour of Igloolik, into which, by the usual operation of
sawing, they made their way. Here they prepared to spend another
winter. The two ships were at some distance from each other, though not
sufficiently so to prevent constant intercourse. They were prevented,
however, from continuing their theatrical entertainments, but schools
were carried on as industriously as before. A wall of snow, twelve feet
high, was built round the _Fury_, at a distance of twenty yards from
her, forming a large square, like that of a farmyard, by which not only
was the snow-drift kept out, but a good walk, sheltered from every wind,
was afforded. Before long the Esquimaux appeared, among whom were
several of their old friends; but Iliglink did not arrive, nor was any
reason given for her not coming. The winter was less pleasantly spent
than the former, while some slight cases of scurvy appeared, arising
from the want of fresh anti-scorbutic plants. At length, when the month
of August arrived, the ships were as securely confined in the ice as in
the middle of winter, except that a pool of water, about twice their own
length and diameter, had opened round them. There was a distance of
four or five miles between the ships and the sea, yet notwithstanding,
Captain Parry determined to commence the laborious task of sawing his
way through it.
By the 6th of August, about four hundred yards of ice were sawn through,
leaving a broad canal, eleven hundred yards in length. By this and the
disruption of the floe on the 8th of August, the _Fury_ floated once
more in open water, and was followed on the 12th by the _Hecla_.
Captain Parry had come to the resolution of sending the _Hecla_ home,
and by taking such stores and provisions as could be spared from her on
board the _Fury_, with her alone to brave a third winter in the polar
regions; but on desiring the medical officers to furnish him with their
opinions as to the probable effect that a third winter passed in these
regions would produce on the health of the ship's company, they
expressed it very strongly to the effect that it would be dangerous in
the extreme. Captain Lyon fully agreed with this, and the ships,
therefore, stood out eastward. The current rapidly hurried them along
to the southward, their drift being twenty-one miles in twenty-four
hours, though closely beset, without a single pool of water in sight the
whole time. As they approached a headland, they were whirled round it
at the rate of two or three knots an hour, and on passing Barrow River
were drifted nine or ten miles off land by the current setting out of
it.
On the 17th of September, a strong westerly breeze clearing them from
the ice, enabled them to shape their course for Trinity Islands in a
perfectly open sea, from whence they ran down Hudson's Straits, without
meeting with any obstruction. The favourable wind still continued, and
on the 10th of October they anchored in Brassa Sound, off Lerwick, where
they enjoyed their first sight of civilised man, after an absence of
seven and twenty months.
They were received by the people of Lerwick in the warmest manner. The
bells were set ringing, the town was illuminated, and people flocked in
from all parts of the country, to express their joy at their unexpected
return.
On the 18th Captain Parry arrived at the Admiralty, and the ships were
paid off on the 16th of November.
The idea being entertained that the passage westward into the Pacific
might be made through Prince Regent's Inlet, Captain Parry was appointed
to the command of another expedition for the purpose of ascertaining if
this could be done. The _Hecla_ was re-commissioned, he taking command
of her, while Commander Hoppner was appointed to the _Fury_, with
Horatio Thomas Austin and James Clark Ross as his lieutenants. The
_Hecla_ carried sixty-two and the _Fury_ sixty persons.
The ships sailed from the Nore on the 19th of May, 1824, accompanied by
the _William Harris_ transport. Captain Parry received his instructions
to make the best of his way to Davis Straits, to cross over to Lancaster
Sound, and, proceeding through Barrow Straits, endeavour to make through
Prince Regent's Inlet a passage into the sea which bounds the American
continent on its northern coast, and thence westward to the Pacific. At
the Danish settlement of Lievely the ships received their stores from
the _William Harris_, which returned home. On leaving the harbour, the
_Hecla_ struck on a sunken rock, but without receiving much damage. On
the 17th of July the ice began to close round the ships, and from that
time forward the crews were constantly employed in warping or sawing
through the frozen mass. On several occasions the _Hecla_ received
awkward nips, and it was not until the 9th of September that they got
into open water. On the 10th of September they entered Lancaster Sound,
and found it free from ice; but on the 13th they had the mortification
of perceiving the sea ahead covered with young ice, through which they
made their way until they came to the entrance of Port Bowen, into which
the ships were warped by the ist of October, and here took up their
winter station. The usual preparations for passing that dreary season
were made. Numerous whales were seen off the coast, which would have
afforded a rich harvest to a whaler.
Parry's first care was to find occupation and diversion for the seamen.
As many of their former amusements were worn threadbare, he proposed a
masquerade, in which officers and men alike took part. Admirably
dressed characters of various descriptions made their appearance, and
were supported with a degree of spirit and humour which would not have
discredited a more refined assembly. It does especial credit to the
disposition and good sense of the men that, although the officers
entered fully into the spirit of these amusements, which took place once
a month alternately on board each ship, no instance occurred of anything
that could interfere with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the
respect of the men towards their officers. Mr Hooper, purser of the
_Hecla_, superintended the school, aided by other officers. The
progress of the men was surprisingly great. He also attended to the
cultivation of that religious feeling which so essentially improves the
character of seamen, by furnishing the highest motives for increased
attention to their other duties. The officers also found full
employment in the various observations to which their attention was
directed. An expedition was also made to the eastward, under Commander
Hoppner. On his return, two other parties, under the respective
commands of Lieutenants Sherer and Ross, travelled, the former to the
southward, and the latter to the northward, along the coast of Prince
Regent's Inlet, for the purpose of surveying it accurately. The
travelling along the shore was so good that they were enabled to extend
their journeys far beyond the points intended. On returning, Lieutenant
Ross brought the welcome intelligence that the sea was perfectly open at
a distance of twenty-two miles northward of Port Bowen. On the 12th of
July the ice began to break up, and by the 20th, owing to the sudden
separation of the floe, the ships got free. They first crossed over to
the western shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, then proceeded southward,
close in with the land, having alternately open water and floating ice,
to which they had occasionally to make fast. Before long, however, the
ice was observed to be in rapid motion towards the shore. The _Hecla_
was immediately beset, in spite of every exertion, and, after breaking
two of the largest ice-anchors, in endeavouring to heave in to the
shore, she was compelled to drift with the ice. Both ships were in
extreme danger. The cliffs next the sea, four or five hundred feet in
perpendicular height, were constantly breaking down, and the ships lay
so close in shore as to be almost within range of some of these falling
masses. The following day the _Hecla_ managed to get to a greater
distance; but the _Fury_ remained where she was, and on the 31st a hard
gale brought the ice closer and closer, until it pressed with very
considerable violence on both ships, though mostly on the _Fury_, which
lay in a very exposed position. Shortly afterwards the _Fury_ was
forced on the ground, where she lay, but was got off again at high
water. A broad channel appearing and a fresh breeze springing up, an
attempt was made to reach the water; but the ice came bodily in upon the
ships, which were instantly beset in such a manner as to be literally
helpless and unmanageable.
Thus they were carried southward, when the _Hecla_, driving close in
shore, struck the ground several times, and remained immovable. The
_Fury_ was seen driving past, narrowly escaping being forced on board
her. She was driven about three hundred yards, powerfully pressed by
the ice, until she became so severely nipped and strained as to leak a
good deal, when she was again forced ashore. Both ships, however, got
off at high water, but on the 2nd of August the _Fury_ was again driven
on the beach, and the _Hecla_ narrowly escaped. Captain Parry went on
board the former vessel, and found four pumps going, and Commander
Hoppner and his men almost exhausted with the incessant labours of the
last eight and forty hours. They were now looking out for a spot where
the Fury might be hove down, when again the ice drove down upon them.
Once more freed, however, the ships proceeded to a place where there
were three bergs, at which it was determined to heave down the _Fury_.
The formation of a basin was at once commenced, and completed by the
16th of August, and on the 18th all the _Fury's_ stores, provisions, and
other articles, were landed, and she was hove down. Scarcely, however,
had this been done when a gale of wind came on, which destroyed the
bergs, and made it necessary to tow both the ships away from the land.
The _Fury_ was again reloaded, but on the 21st was once more driven on
shore. It was now seen that any attempt to carry her to a place of
safety, even should she be got off, would be hopeless and productive of
extreme risk to the remaining ship, and that an absolute necessity
existed for abandoning her. Her crew, with such stores as were
required, were transferred to the _Hecla_, and every effort was made to
carry the surviving ship into clear water.
Five and twenty days of the time when navigation was practicable had
been lost. As soon, therefore, as the boats had been hoisted up and
stowed, they sailed away to the north-eastward, with a light air off the
land, in order to gain an offing before the ice should again set in
shore. The _Hecla_ was at length worked out of Prince Regent's Inlet,
and arrived safely at Melville Harbour, where the necessary repairs were
effected for enabling her to cross the Atlantic.
Weighing anchor on the 1st of September, the _Hecla_ entered Barrow
Strait, where the sea was found perfectly open, and she was thus enabled
to bear away to the eastward. In crossing Lancaster Sound more than the
usual quantity of icebergs were seen. For ten miles she had only to
make one tack, when she reached the margin of the ice, and got on its
eastern side into the open sea. On the 10th of October the Orkney
Islands were sighted, and on the 12th Captain Parry landed at Peterhead.
This last voyage to discover the north-west passage, though less
successful than the former ones, equally exhibited the courage,
perseverance, and hardihood which had before distinguished the officers
and crews employed; while we cannot help contrasting the admirable
discipline maintained with the sad want of it displayed in so many of
the voyages described in the preceding pages.
In 1827 Captain Parry commanded an expedition, which was fitted out in
the hopes of reaching the north pole by way of Spitzbergen, when,
accompanied by Captain Ross, he performed a long and hazardous journey
over the ice; but, after travelling six hundred miles, it was found that
they had only made good, owing to the drift of the ice, one hundred and
seventy miles.
As a reward for his laborious services, he received the honour of
knighthood, and Admiral Sir Edward Parry will ever be remembered as one
of the bravest, most sagacious, and enterprising officers who have done
honour to the British Navy.
The voyages of Sir John Franklin will now occupy us in succession to the
heroic Parry.