VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN COOK--A.D. 1768.

Birth and education--Enters the Royal Navy--Employed to take soundings

in the Saint Lawrence--Diligence in study--Marriage--Expedition to

observe the transit of Venus--Cook appointed to the command--Equipment

of the _Endeavour_--Scientific men sail with him--Leave Plymouth--The

nuns of Santa Clara--Jealousy of the Governor of Rio de Janeiro--Natives

come on board--Their behaviour--Landing and exploring the country--

Overtaken by a snow-storm--Sufferings from cold--Return to the ship--

Voyage continued--Round Cape Horn--Run 700 leagues--Coral reefs--Naming

islands--Anchor in Matavia Bay--Conduct of the natives--Captain Cook

lands--Aspect of the country--Reception by the chiefs--Pocket-picking by

the inhabitants--A thief shot--Annoyance of Captain Cook--Excursions up

the country--Erect a fort--Punishment of one of the ship's company--The

pity of the natives excited--Theft--Recovery of the property--The

transit of Venus--The Queen Oberea--A native priest wishes to accompany

the English--Dress, habits, and manufactures of the natives--The

expedition sails--Islands visited--A famous warrior--Dancers--The

Society Islands--Off Oheteroa--Opposition of the people--Anniversary of

sailing--A comet--Discovery of New Zealand--Disturbance with the

natives--Prisoners taken--Attempt to carry off a boy--Mercury Bay--

Furious Gale--Survey of New Zealand completed--Australia sighted--

Anchor, and go on shore--Conduct of the people--Botany Bay--Strikes a

reef--Repairing the vessel--Australia--Sail for England--Sickness at

Batavia--Arrival.

Captain James Cook, who deservedly takes rank as the greatest of English

explorers and navigators, was the son of a farm labourer, and born at

Marton, near Stockton-upon-Tees, on the 27th of October, 1728. Shortly

afterwards his father, an intelligent and industrious man, obtained a

situation as farm bailiff to Mr Thomas Skottowe, of Airy-holme, near

Ayton, in Yorkshire, by whom young James, when old enough, was sent to a

commercial school, where he learned writing and the rules of arithmetic.

At the age of thirteen he was apprenticed to Mr William Sanderson, a

grocer and haberdasher, at the fishing town of Straiths, near Whitby.

He remained with his master until he was about eighteen years of age,

when, having a strong desire to go to sea, he obtained a release from

his engagement, and having apprenticed himself to Messrs. Walker and

Company, shipowners, of Whitby, he embarked on board one of their

vessels--the _Truelove_, collier--trading between Newcastle and London.

After having made several voyages, from his thorough knowledge of

seamanship, he was raised to the rank of mate on board the _Friendship_.

In her he remained until the breaking out of war between England and

France in 1756, when, considering the risk he ran of being pressed, he

volunteered as an able seaman on board the _Eagle_, of sixty guns,

commanded by Captain Harmer, who was succeeded by Captain Palliser,

afterwards Sir Hugh Palliser, Cook's warm and constant patron. He had

by this time many friends on shore, and his captain, who having remarked

his intelligence and assiduity, had already made him a quartermaster,

received a letter recommending him to his notice, and in a short time

obtained for him a warrant as master. In 1759 Cook was accordingly made

master of the _Grampus_, but the former master returning, he was

appointed to the same rank on board the _Garland_. He was again doomed

to disappointment, as she had sailed, but quickly received an order

appointing him to the _Mercury_, which immediately sailed for North

America, to join the fleet under Sir Charles Saunders, which, in

conjunction with General Wolfe's force, was engaged in the siege of

Quebec. He was here employed, by the recommendation of Captain

Palliser, who now commanded the _Shrewsbury_, in taking soundings in the

Saint Lawrence opposite Quebec. While thus occupied he had a narrow

escape of being captured by the French. After this he had many

opportunities of displaying his talents, while he applied himself

diligently to the study of astronomy and other branches of nautical

science. While serving on board the _Northumberland_, he was engaged in

the capture of Newfoundland, and was afterwards employed, at different

periods, in surveying its coast. At the end of 1762, returning to

England, he married Miss Elizabeth Batts, a young lady of respectable

family. By her he had six children, three of whom died in their

infancy. His last visit to Newfoundland was as marine surveyor, in

1767. After the establishment of peace between England and France, two

expeditions had been fitted out to circumnavigate the globe, one under

Lord Byron, and the other under Captains Carteret and Wallis. Before

the return of the latter commanders, a new expedition was designed for

the purpose of observing the transit of Venus, which had been calculated

by astronomers would occur in 1760. Various parts of the Pacific were

talked of as most suitable; but before the expedition was ready, Captain

Wallis returned and recommended King George's Island or Otaheite as the

most eligible situation for observing the approaching transit.

After various persons had been proposed to command the expedition, the

Secretary of the Admiralty named Cook; and Sir Hugh Palliser, who was

applied to, strongly recommending him, he was at once appointed.

Instead of selecting a frigate or larger ship, Sir Hugh Palliser chose

the _Endeavour_, a bark of three hundred and seventy tons, built for a

collier, as more suitable for the purpose, as she could, from her build,

carry ample provisions and stores, could run into shallow water, and

might be laid on shore to be repaired without risk.

She was at once carried into a basin in Deptford yard, and Lieutenant

Cook received his commission as commander. She was fitted with ten

carriage and ten swivel guns, and those appointed to sail on board her

numbered, in addition to the commander, his officers, and scientific

men, forty-one able seamen, twelve marines, and nine servants, making

altogether eighty-five persons. She was victualled for eighteen months.

One of the chief promoters of the expedition was Mr Banks, afterwards

Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society, who obtained

permission to join the expedition. He took with him Dr Solander, a

Swedish naturalist, a secretary, two draughtsmen, and four servants.

The Admiralty also appointed Mr Green, an astronomer, to assist

Lieutenant Cook in his observations. A large supply of such articles as

were likely to be useful were taken on board by Mr Banks.

The _Endeavour_ having gone round to Plymouth, set sail from thence on

the 26th of August, 1768, and steered a course for Madeira. Here the

simple nuns of the convent of Santa Clara, hearing that the strangers

were great philosophers, begged to be informed when it would thunder,

and whether a spring of fresh water was to be found anywhere within the

walls of the cloisters.

The _Endeavour_, sighting Teneriffe, reached Rio de Janeiro on the 13th

of November. Here the ignorant Portuguese Governor, jealous of the

expedition, and unable to comprehend its objects, treated the voyagers

with scant courtesy. His only idea was that they were going out to

witness the passing of the north star through the south pole.

On the 11th of January, 1769, Cook came in sight of Tierra del Fuego,

and three days afterwards entered the straits of Le Maire. The

_Endeavour_ anchored in the bay of Good Success, where they met with a

number of the inhabitants, three of whom were induced to come on board,

but showed a remarkable want of interest in all they witnessed. Being

treated, however, in a kind way, they became very friendly, and showed

no fear of their visitors. They were not so low in the scale of

humanity as many voyagers have described them, and probably not less

capable of receiving instruction than other savages. The weather being

fair and mild, on the 16th of January Mr Banks, Dr Solander, Mr

Green, Mr Monkhouse, the surgeon, and Mr Buchan, a landscape painter,

landed to explore the country. After crossing a morass, commencing the

ascent of a mountain, and passing a wooded tract, it being nearly eight

o'clock in the evening, the party were greatly fatigued, while they were

chilled with the intense cold. Though Dr Solander had kept saying,

"Whoever sits down will sleep, and whoever sleeps will wake no more," he

himself was the first to insist on resting, and it was with the greatest

difficulty his companions could get him on. He and a black man were at

length allowed to recline against some bushes for about five minutes,

but even during that short period his limbs became so numbed that he

could hardly move. The rest of the party had gone on, and had succeeded

in lighting a fire, towards which the Doctor was dragged, but it was

found impossible to rouse the black, who was left in charge of another

black and one of the seamen named Richmond. The snow came on and fell

incessantly for two hours.

Mr Banks dispatched some persons to look for Richmond and the blacks,

but they were unable to find them. About midnight a cry was heard, and

the seaman was discovered standing, but unable to move, while one of the

blacks lay insensible on the ground. So exhausted were the party that

their united efforts failed to bring in the unfortunate negroes, who

quickly expired, and were left where they fell, covered up with boughs.

The night was passed in the greatest possible misery. In the morning,

so fierce were the snow-blasts that it was found impossible to proceed,

while they dared not venture to quit the fire. At length, having shot a

vulture, the only food they obtained, at ten o'clock they set out, and

after walking three hours found themselves on the beach, in sight of the

vessel. On the 22nd the _Endeavour_ proceeded on her voyage, and the

fourth day afterwards rounded Cape Horn. She then ran for seven hundred

leagues without land being in sight. Several coral islands were passed,

the first of which was inhabited, and, after the dreary mountains of

Tierra del Fuego, appeared a terrestrial Paradise. It was an almost

circular band of land, with here and there cocoa-nut trees rising out of

it, and enclosing a large lagoon. The natives appeared to be tall, of a

copper colour, with long black hair, and they held in their hands poles

of considerable length. This was called Lagoon Island, others, from

their shape, obtained the names of Bow Island, Chain Island, and and

Bird Island.

About noon on the 9th of April the high mountains of Otaheite were

faintly discerned, but owing to calms the ship did not come to an anchor

in Matavia Bay until the morning of the 13th. She was immediately

surrounded by canoes, their crews bringing off fruits and fish, and

waving green branches as a sign of friendship.

These were taken by the seamen and placed in different parts of the

ship, to show the natives that their visitors also wished for peace.

Strict rules were now laid down by the commander for the government of

his people while on shore. He then landed with Mr Banks and Dr

Solander, and a party of men under arms.

The natives received them in the most humble manner, the first who

approached creeping up on his hands and knees to present a green branch

as an emblem of peace.

After examining a place to ascertain if it was suitable for watering

purposes, the party marched three or four miles into the interior

through groves of trees loaded with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit,

affording the most grateful shade. Numerous huts were seen under these

trees, which in the daytime had the appearance of roofs without walls.

At night mats were let down, to afford such privacy as the habits of the

people in that genial climate required.

All this time none of the principal persons of the island had made their

appearance. After the ship had been there a couple of days, two chiefs,

Matahah and Tootahah, came off, the first fixing on Mr Banks as his

friend, and the latter on Captain Cook. The ceremony of making friends

was gone through. It consisted in the natives taking off the greater

part of their clothing and putting on that of their visitors. Their

dress was formed of the bark made from the paper mulberry-tree. Captain

Cook, Mr Banks, and others went on shore with their new friends, where

they met another chief named Tabourai-Tamaide, and formed a treaty of

friendship with him.

During a feast with which he entertained his visitors, Dr Solander and

Mr Monkhouse found that their pockets had been picked, the one of an

opera-glass, the other of his snuffbox. The chief showed his concern,

and offered several pieces of native cloth as a compensation. This,

however, was refused. The chief going out, by the aid of a sage woman,

recovered the articles, and restored them to their owners.

One of the first objects to be attained was the erection of a fort, to

protect the astronomical instruments. The spot was soon fixed upon,

away from the habitations of the natives, and a party of men sent on

shore to commence operations. While the principal officers were away, a

number of people gathered round to watch what was going on, and one of

them, rushing forward, seized a sentry's musket, and made off with it.

Without consideration, a midshipman ordered the marines to fire, which

they did, but did not hit the thief. He, however, being pursued, was at

length shot dead.

Notwithstanding this, the chiefs behaved with great moderation, and

seemed satisfied that the act was not in consequence of any hostile

feeling, though death was far too severe a punishment for the crime the

man had committed.

Cook was greatly annoyed at this incident. He considered it prudent,

however, to warp the ship closer in, to protect his people while engaged

on shore, as he feared, in consequence of no natives coming near the

ship, that they might be attacked. Before long, however, the natives

got over their alarm, and brought propitiatory gifts of the usual green

boughs. So confident was Cook of their good feeling that he allowed his

officers to make excursions into the country.

Crossing a belt of fertile land on the side of the harbour, they reached

a range of barren hills. Beyond them again they descended into a wide

plain, watered by a river nearly a hundred yards wide. The plain was

studded over with houses, the inhabitants of which appeared to live on

the ample productions of their country. Happy as the people appeared to

be, it was evident that they were mere children of impulse, scarcely

knowing right from wrong. The greater number were pertinacious thieves,

and addicted besides to many vices. Though not apparently bloodthirsty,

they were accustomed to offer up human sacrifices. But little insight

at that time was gained into their religious practices.

While the fort was in course of erection, the natives watched the

proceedings closely. It was finished by the 26th of April, and six

swivel guns were mounted on it. This seemed to alarm the people, who

moved to a distance; but the chiefs came in with their wives, and

exhibited no signs of fear. While they were there the butcher took a

fancy to a stone hatchet in the hands of one of the women, and because

she refused to give it, he threatened to kill her. The captain hearing

of this, ordered him to receive a couple of dozen in the presence of the

natives.

When they saw the first strokes given their kind feelings being aroused,

they entreated that the rest of the man's punishment might be remitted,

and when their petition was refused they burst into tears. A day or two

after this great alarm was caused in the fort by the disappearance of a

large instrument in a case, without which the intended observation could

not be taken. The friendly chiefs were applied to, and by their means

the thief was traced, and though the parts of the instrument had been

divided among various persons, the whole were collected uninjured, and

it was finally set up in its place.

To have a better chance of obtaining a clear sky, the astronomers were

divided into three parties. One with Mr Banks proceeded to the island

of Eimeo, twelve miles west of Otaheite; Mr Hicks went to a spot

eastward of Matavia Bay; while Captain Cook and Dr Solander remained at

the fort. The eventful morning of the 3rd of June arrived. The sky was

perfectly clear, and the passage of the planet Venus over the sun's disc

was observed to great advantage.

Captain Wallis had discovered a female whom he supposed to be the Queen

of the isles. She was recognised by Mr Molineux, the master of the

_Endeavour_, who had accompanied Captain Wallis on his late voyage. Her

name was Oberea. She was therefore treated with much attention, and

many presents were made to her. Among them she seemed to value most a

child's doll, possibly supposing it to be one of the gods of the white

man. She had apparently been deposed, and Tootahah had become the

principal chief, but, jealous of the favours shown to Oberea, was not

content until a doll had been presented to him also, and at first he

seemed to value it more than a hatchet. Among the attendants of Oberea

was Tupia, who had become a priest, and had evidently considerable

influence among his countrymen. He had from the first attached himself

to the English, and now expressed a strong desire to accompany them when

they should quit the country. As his services were likely to prove of

the greatest value, Captain Cook gladly agreed to his proposal, and he

was appointed interpreter on board the _Endeavour_.

The inhabitants of Otaheite were far superior to those of most of the

other islands. They were all more or less clothed in well-made cloth

manufactured from the paper mulberry-tree, and ingeniously painted. In

wet weather they wore instead garments made of matting, some of a very

fine and beautiful description. They produced a great variety of

basket-work, and made string and rope of various thicknesses. Their

houses were neat, and they were remarkably clean in their habits, many

of them washing twice or oftener in a day. The last event of importance

which occurred was the desertion of two marines, who stole from the

fort, intending to remain in the country.

As Captain Cook could not allow so bad an example to be set, he was

compelled, in order to recover them, to detain Tootahah and several

other chiefs until the fugitives should be restored. The natives

retaliated by capturing two petty officers, and the arms of two others,

and matters began to look serious, until, by the intervention of

Tootahah, the deserters were restored and received due punishment.

After a stay of three months the voyagers, having bade farewell to their

friends on shore, prepared for sailing, when Tupia, accompanied by a boy

as his servant, came on board, and expressed his readiness to accompany

them.

About noon on the 12th of April the anchor was weighed, and the vessel

getting under sail, the Indians on board took their leave of their

visitors and Tupia, weeping with a deep and silent sorrow, in which

there was something very striking and tender. Tupia evinced great

firmness, struggling to conceal his tears, and, climbing to the

masthead, made signals until he was carried out of sight of the friends

he was destined never again to see. As they sailed along he frequently

prayed to his god Tane for a favourable breeze, but it was observed that

he never commenced his orisons until he saw the signs of the coming

gale.

The islands of Eimeo, Huaheine, Ulietea, and Bolabola were visited in

succession. The ship anchoring near Ulietea, Captain Cook took the

opportunity to stop a leak, and take in ballast; he went also to visit

Opoony, the warlike sovereign of Bolabola, who had conquered this and

many of the neighbouring islands. Instead of seeing a fine-looking

warrior, as he expected, he found a withered, half-blind, decrepit old

man, who was, notwithstanding, the terror of the surrounding islands.

The people on shore welcomed their visitors with all possible courtesy.

On their way they met a company of dancers, men and women, who were said

by Tupia to be among the principal people. The women wore graceful

head-dresses of long braids of hair and flowers, with pearls in their

ears. The upper parts of their bodies were unclothed, but they were

amply covered from the breast downwards in native cloth stained black.

Regular dramas were represented before the strangers, and the style of

dancing was objectionable in the extreme. An ample supply of hogs,

poultry, and provisions having been obtained at Ulietea, the _Endeavour_

again sailed. When off Bolabola, at which the landing was found to be

extremely difficult, to gratify Tupia Captain Cook fired one of his

guns, though the ship was several leagues off. Tupia's object was to

exhibit his hatred of the King of that island, as well as the power of

his new allies. To the group of islands which had been seen or visited,

Captain Cook gave the name of the Society's Islands, but Otaheite was

not included among them, and continued to be known as King George's

Island.

On the 13th of August the _Endeavour_ came off Oheteroa, considerably to

the south of the others. Here the natives, dressed in coloured cloths

and feathers, stood ready to oppose a landing; and after several

fruitless attempts to conciliate them, Captain Cook continued his course

to the southward. On the 25th of August, the anniversary of their

departure from England, the day was celebrated by taking a Cheshire

cheese from a locker where it had been preserved for the purpose, and

tapping a cask of porter, which proved to be in excellent order. On the

morning of the 30th a comet was seen in the east, a little above the

horizon. After this, a heavy sea and strong gales were met with from

the westward, and the ship being wore round, stood to the northward. On

the weather moderating, the cruise was continued westward during the

whole month of September, and on the 6th of October land was seen from

the masthead bearing West-by-North.

On the evening of the next day the voyagers got near enough to observe

that the country was of great extent, with several ranges of hills

rising one above the other, and beyond them a lofty chain of mountains.

The general notion was that they had found the _Terra Australis

Incognita_. Night coming on, they were compelled to stand off, but the

following day again sailed for the shore.

They saw some neat small houses, and a large number of people seated on

the beach. Farther on was discovered a high regular paling, enclosing

the whole top of a hill. In the afternoon the ship came to an anchor

off the mouth of a river in a bay, the sides of which were composed of

white cliffs of great height.

Such was the first view the English obtained of New Zealand, which has

since become the home of many thousands of our countrymen. Captain

Cook, Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and a party of men having landed, tried

to open a communication with the natives across a river. While they

were on the bank, a party of savages with long lances rushed out of a

wood, and were on the point of spearing the men left in charge of the

boat, when the coxswain fired and shot one of them dead. The natives

then ran away. On examining the dress of the dead man, it was found to

answer the description given in an account of Tasman's voyage, which

convinced the explorers that that navigator had previously visited the

country. On the following day the natives again appeared on the

opposite side of the river, inviting the strangers to cross; but Tupia

warned them to be careful, and prepared for hostilities. Ultimately the

savages swam across, almost all armed. At first they appeared inclined

to trade, but in a short time made an attempt to seize the weapons of

the English, and one of them carried off the cutlass of a seaman, which

he flourished about his head as he made his escape. Others in

considerable numbers came down to his assistance. At first Mr Banks

fired, and merely wounded the man, who was still retreating, when Mr

Monkhouse took a more fatal aim, and he dropped, and another piece being

fired, the savages at length fell back. Shortly afterwards Captain

Cook, who was anxious to make some prisoners, and by treating them well

to inspire a general confidence, sent the boats to capture some canoes

which were seen coming in from the sea. The natives, however, assailed

their pursuers so vigorously with stones and other missiles, that the

English were compelled to fire, and four men were killed. Three boys

were captured. Cook deeply lamented this proceeding, though it appeared

to be almost unavoidable. The boys on being taken on board became

reconciled, and at first seemed very unwilling to be sent on shore, but

were ultimately seen to join their companions.

Such was the unhappy commencement of our acquaintance with the natives

of New Zealand. As nothing could be obtained at the place where Cook

first anchored, it was called "Poverty Bay." Leaving on the 11th, he

proceeded along the coast for six days, until the bluff headland was

reached, to which he gave the name of "Cape Turnagain," as the ship was

there put about to return along the coast. She continued her course

until she had sailed completely round the island. Names were given to

the bays and headlands, which they retain to the present day. The

intercourse with the natives was mostly of the same lamentable character

as that at the commencement, though they in some instances brought off

fish and willingly traded with the voyagers. The savages, however,

stole whatever they could lay hands on, though appearing to be amicably

disposed. One suddenly seized Tayeto, Tupia's boy, and, dragging him

into his canoe, made off. The marines fired at the canoe farthest from

the boy, when one of the natives fell, on which the other let go his

hold of Tayeto, who leaped overboard and swam to the ship.

At Mercury Bay--so-called in consequence of an observation of the planet

Mercury having been made in the harbour--the natives behaved in a more

peaceable manner, though many of them there tried to cheat their

visitors. To this conduct there were some exceptions. One chief, named

Toiava, behaved with great propriety, and expressed his hope that his

countrymen would properly conduct themselves in future. Some of the

canoes which approached the ship were of great size, one of them having

sixteen paddles on each side and containing sixty men. She was making

directly for the ship, when a gun loaded with grape-shot was fired in

front of her, and, on a second shot being discharged over the heads of

the crew, they seized their paddles and made for the shore.

A headland, near which this occurrence took place, was consequently

called "Cape Runaway." Captain Cook having landed near the spot called

by Tasman: "Murderer's Bay," on ascending one of the neighbouring hills,

discovered that the country, which he at first supposed to consist of

one large island, was divided by a strait into two islands. This strait

has since been called Cook's Strait. Leaving the inlet, on which he

bestowed the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound, the ship was borne rapidly

through the straits. Having been exposed, when off the coast, to a

furious gale, which, though it was the height of summer, lasted for five

weeks, he continued his survey of New Zealand, and having run down the

coast of Middle Island, and discovered Banks's Island, he returned to

Cook's Straits. The _Endeavour_ took her departure from Cape Farewell,

the last land seen of New Zealand, on the 31st of March; and sailing

westward, on he 19th of April land was descried, which proved to be part

of New Holland. For several days the _Endeavour_ coasted along the

shore to the northward, until at last a bay was discovered, into which

she ran and came to an anchor. Several black natives were seen on shore

flourishing their spears. Abreast of the _Endeavour_ was a village of

about eight huts, and not far off four small canoes, with a man fishing

in each. Presently an old woman with three children came out of the

forest, laden with fire-wood. She threw down her burden, and kindled a

fire, when the men, landing, began to dress the fish, apparently taking

no notice of the ship.

Captain Cook, with several companions, went on shore, when most of the

people ran away; but two, armed with lances, came down on the rocks to

dispute the landing of the strangers, regardless of the presents which

Captain Cook held out to them, flourishing their lances and shouting in

discordant tones. Even when a shot was fired, though at first they

retreated, one of them returned and threw a stone at the invaders. At

last, another musket, loaded with small shot was fired at their legs,

when, one of them throwing a spear, they both took to flight. The

explorers, now landing, found some little children hidden in a hut; they

were not disturbed, but some presents of beads, ribbons, and pieces of

cloth were left in exchange, for a bundle of spears which was

appropriated. It was at first supposed that these were poisoned, as a

green substance was observed on their tips; but, on examining them, it

was found to be seaweed, and that they must have been used for spearing

fish. The next day, when Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and the others,

landed, they found that their presents had not been removed. While the

English were filling casks at a spring, and drawing the seine, when

large numbers of fish were taken, the natives watched what was going

forward without attempting to molest them.

Several excursions were made by the naturalists on shore, when they also

kept at a distance. A few animals and numerous gaily coloured birds

were seen, and vast quantities of plants collected, from which

circumstance Captain Cook gave the place the name of Botany Bay, which

for half a century it retained. On the 6th of May the _Endeavour_ left

Botany Bay, and steered northward. Shortly afterwards, as she was

passing along the coast, a seaman named Jackson observed what he took to

be the entrance to a harbour, which in consequence was called Port

Jackson; but Cook did not attempt to enter, being doubtful at the time

whether it would prove to be a harbour. The object was now to lay the

ship ashore, to clean and repair her. As he sailed along he anxiously

looked out for a suitable spot, landing occasionally to explore the

country. He had got as far north as 16 degrees 4 minutes, when, one

fine night, as the ship was rapidly running on, a grating sound was

heard. She had struck upon a reef. The officers and crew hurried on

deck. The well was sounded: she was making a great deal of water. The

boats were hoisted out, and attempts made to heave her off, but she beat

so violently on the rocks that the crew could scarcely keep their feet,

and she could not be moved. Her sheathing-boards and false keel also

floated up. As she had struck at high water, though she might not sink,

there appeared every probability of her becoming a wreck. Cook did not

despair. At once the guns, ballast, and other heavy articles were

thrown overboard, and preparations made for heaving her off when the

tide again rose. Happily a dead calm came on, and at daybreak land was

seen about eight leagues off. All day long the crew laboured without

moving her. The night tide was likely to be the highest. At length she

was hove off into deep water. Now the difficulty was to keep her

afloat, for the crew were wellnigh exhausted by their exertions. At

length Mr Monkhouse suggested that he had seen a vessel saved by

fothering a sail--that is, covering it thickly with oakum, and then

dragging it under the ship's bottom to the place where the leak existed,

when the oakum, drawn in by the force of the water, would fill up the

openings.

This was done, and succeeded so well that two pumps kept her afloat

until the 17th, when a safe harbour was found, and she was at once

hauled ashore. It was then discovered that a fragment of the rock had

gone through her bottom, and remained sticking there. Had this fallen

out, she must have foundered. Tents and a forge were at once set up on

the shore, and the carpenter, blacksmith, and others to assist, were

speedily busy repairing the damage the ship had received. The sick were

also landed. Of these there were many, for notwithstanding all their

care, that scourge of seamen, scurvy, had already made much progress.

Mr Banks and other scientific gentlemen made excursions into the

country. They saw several animals, but the strangest of all was of

about the size of a greyhound, mouse coloured, and very swift. It had a

long tail, and leapt like a hare, while the print of its feet resembled

those of a goat. It was some time before another of the same species

was seen and shot, when it was discovered to be what has since become a

well-known animal, called after the native name, a kangaroo. Some days

elapsed before any natives were seen. At last a gang approached, when

Captain Cook ordered his people to take no notice of them. This had the

desired effect of allaying their fears, and though shy, they became

tolerably friendly.

A few days afterwards a party ventured on board, and took a great fancy

to some turtles which had been caught, though they seemed to regard

nothing else with interest. They first took hold of one, and then

attempted to carry it off; but, on being prevented, jumped into their

canoes, and paddled away in a rage. On landing, they seized a brand

from under the pitch-kettle, and with it set fire to the long grass. It

blazed up so furiously that it was with the greatest difficulty that the

tent in which Tupia was lying sick could be preserved, while the

woodwork of the smith's forge was destroyed; it also caught a sow and

young pigs, one of which was scorched to death. On a subsequent

occasion the natives played a similar trick. Providentially, the stores

and powder had been taken on board, or the consequences would have been

serious.

Thanks to the knowledge of the naturalist, many vegetables were found on

shore which contributed greatly to restore the health of the

scurvy-stricken patients. Although in many respects the ship could not

have remained at a more satisfactory place, a view to the eastward,

obtained from some high ground, caused serious apprehensions. As far as

the eye could reach were rocks and shoals without number, while it was

evident that there would be great danger in navigating among the winding

channels between them. The master, who had been engaged in surveying

the mouth of the harbour, brought an equally unsatisfactory report, and

it seemed surprising that the ship on entering the bay could have

escaped the numerous dangers in her way. As provisions were running

short, it was necessary to put to sea as soon as possible; but heavy

gales kept the ship in harbour until the 4th of August, when at length

she made her way out of Endeavour Harbour. For many hours, with the

most vigilant care, she was steered among the reefs, until night

approaching, and it coming on to blow, it was necessary to bring up.

The gale increased, and she began to drive. By striking her yards, and

then her topmasts, she at length rode securely. Here she remained for

four days, until Captain Cook resolved to try and find a passage inside

the reefs, close to the shore. At last, by the long rolling swell which

set in from the eastward, he was convinced that he was free of the

reefs; but the movement caused the ship to leak, and serious

apprehensions were entertained that she would be unable to accomplish

the voyage. His object was to ascertain whether the coast of New

Holland, along which he was sailing, was or was not united to that of

New Guinea. By standing on he was afraid that, should a passage exist,

he might overshoot it. The ship was therefore hove to. The next

morning a reef was seen, over which the surf was breaking with terrific

violence. The current rapidly carried the ship towards it, the wind

fell to a dead calm, and it was impossible to anchor on account of the

depth of the sea. The only two boats fit for the service were sent

ahead to tow, and the sweeps were got out; but all their efforts seemed

to be unavailing, and her destruction seemed inevitable, when a light

air sprang up, and she was able to get to some distance. Twice the

breeze dropping, she was carried back towards the roaring breakers,

until an opening was seen in the reef, through which she safely passed.

Day after day, keeping the land close aboard, Captain Cook sailed

northward, until his perseverance was rewarded by the discovery of Cape

York, the northern extremity of Australia, and the southern side of

Torres Straits, through which he passed.

Having landed, and taken possession of the whole eastern coast in the

right of his Majesty King George the Third, he called it New South

Wales. Having found his way through the intricate navigation of the

straits, Cook sailed northward along the coast of New Guinea, and at

last came to an anchor in three fathoms of water, though still three or

four miles from the shore. He then, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and

others, landed, well armed. They made their way round a wood, until

they reached a group of cocoa-nut trees, at about a quarter of a mile

from the beach, when suddenly three blacks rushed out of the wood, the

foremost of whom threw something from his hand which burnt like

gunpowder, while the others darted their lances.

Though some small shots were discharged at the savages, they still came

on, throwing their darts; but some bullets fired put them to flight, and

it was hoped none were injured. On looking round, they saw the men in

charge of the boat making signs that more natives were approaching, and

presently a hundred appeared, shouting, throwing their darts, and

sending out clouds of smoke from long tubes. As they were watched from

the ship, it appeared that they were using firearms, though the sound

was wanting. Some muskets being discharged over their heads, the

savages retreated leisurely.

Besides other discoveries, Captain Cook on this voyage ascertained the

size of New Zealand, also that the coast of New Holland was fit to

become the habitation of civilised man, and that that vast territory was

separated from New Guinea. The condition of the _Endeavour_ made it now

necessary to carry her to some harbour where she might undergo a

complete refit. The nearest place was Batavia, belonging to the Dutch.

He was aware of its unhealthiness, but he had no choice, and hoped that

his crew would escape. Passing Timor, he came off the island of Savu,

not at that time marked in the charts, but which had lately been taken

possession of by the Dutch, though its native Rajah still remained its

nominal ruler.

From this fertile spot abundance of provisions were obtained at fair

prices. Java Head was reached on the ist of October. Poor Tupia was

very ill, and Mr Banks at once sent on shore to procure fresh

provisions for him. The ship proceeded on to Batavia. Here Cook was

received with all courtesy and kindness by the Dutch Governor, and every

assistance afforded him to repair the _Endeavour_. She was in a worse

state than had been supposed. Her frame was much shattered, her pumps

were rotten, and the planking in some places was not half an inch thick.

Tupia at first seemed to revive as he witnessed the wonders of a

civilised community, but he soon experienced a reaction. Young Tayeto

was also seized with an inflammation of the lungs, and Mr Banks, Dr

Solander, Mr Monkhouse, and others were taken seriously ill. Tents

were set up on shore for the invalids, but before long the surgeon

succumbed. A few days afterwards young Tayeto died, and Tupia, who

loved him as a son, was so much affected that he quickly followed him to

the grave.

Mr Banks and Dr Solander rapidly recovered on being removed to a more

healthy spot, but seven persons were buried at Batavia, and others

imbibed the seeds of disease, which in the end proved fatal. When the

_Endeavour_ sailed from Batavia on the 26th of December, 1770, she had

forty sick on board, and many others in feeble condition; and before she

reached the Cape of Good Hope three-and-twenty persons died, in addition

to those who were buried at Batavia.

On anchoring in Table Bay the sick were sent on shore, where most of

them recovered. At that time Cape Town consisted of about a thousand

brick houses with thatched roofs, and the inhabitants described the

country as sterile, so as not to tempt the English to take possession of

it.

Shortly after leaving the Cape, the master and first lieutenant, Mr

Hicks, died. The latter was succeeded by Mr Charles Clerke, who

accompanied Captain Cook in all his subsequent voyages.

Calling off Saint Helena, Captain Cook found there the _Portland_

man-of-war, commanded by Captain Elliot, with whom he deposited his logs

and other valuable papers, for fear that the _Endeavour_ should not

reach home.

The _Portland_ and her convoy of twelve Indiamen were soon out of sight.

Though the sails and rigging of the _Endeavour_ were rotten, and she

leaked considerably, she ultimately reached the Downs on the 12th of

June.

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